Latin Quarter
So named because international students communicated in Latin here until the French Revolution, the Latin Quarter remains the hub of academic life in Paris. Centred on the Sorbonne’s main university campus, graced by fountains and lime trees, this lively area is also home to some outstanding museums and churches, along with Paris’ beautiful art deco mosque and botanic gardens.
The Sights in a Day
MThe Batobus stops at Paris’ botanic gardens, the Jardin des Plantes, so consider cruising here first and exploring its natural history museums and small zoo. Then make your way to the Mosquée de Paris for a hammam (Turkish steambath). Enjoy sweet mint tea in its courtyard and delicious tajines for lunch.
RCheck out amazing Arab art and ingenious architecture at the Institut du Monde Arabe and pay your respects to some of France’s most illustrious thinkers and innovators at the Panthéon mausoleum. For the ultimate medieval history lesson, visit the Musée National du Moyen Âge.
NAfter fusion cuisine at Sola, browse late-night bookshops like the charming, cluttered Shakespeare & Company, then catch jazz at the Caveau de la Huchette or head to lively bars like Le Crocodile.
1 Top Sights
l Local Life
x Best of Paris
Architecture
History
Getting There
m Metro St-Michel (line 4) and the connected St-Michel–Notre Dame (RER B and C) is the neighbourhood’s gateway.
m Metro Other handy metro stations include Cluny–La Sorbonne (line 10) and Place Monge (line 7).
f Boat The hop-on, hop-off Batobus stops in the Latin Quarter opposite Notre Dame and near the Jardin des Plantes.
Top SightsMusée National du Moyen Âge
Sublime treasures at the National Museum of the Middle Ages span medieval statuary, stained glass and objets d'art to its celebrated series of tapestries, The Lady with the Unicorn. Evocatively housed in an ornate 15th-century mansion (the Hôtel de Cluny) and the much older frigidarium (cold room) of an enormous Roman-era bathhouse, this is one of Paris' top small museums.
MAP
GOOGLE MAP
www.musee-moyenage.fr; 6 place Paul Painlevé, 5e; adult/child €8/free, during temporary exhibitions €9/free; 
h9.15am-5.45pm Wed-Mon; mCluny–La Sorbonne
y Top Tips
AAdmission includes an audioguide.
AGuided tours in French costing €4.50 for one hour or €6.50 for 1½ hours are available by reservation.
ASchool visits of the museum generally take place on Mondays, Thursdays and Fridays, so if you're planning to visit on those days, you're best aiming for noon to 2pm or after 3.30pm when it's quieter.
5 Take a Break
Local bistro Le Pré Verre (
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%01 43 54 59 47; www.lepreverre.com; 8 rue Thénard, 5e; lunch menu €14.50, mains €20; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat; 
W
c; mMaubert-Mutualité) offers lively, great-value dining.
For heritage-listed surrounds and outstanding French fare, nearby brasserie Bouillon Racine is a treat.
The Hôtel de Cluny
Initially the residential quarters of the Cluny Abbots, the Hôtel de Cluny was later occupied by Alexandre du Sommerard, who moved here in 1833 with his collection of medieval and Renaissance objects. Bought by the state after his death, the museum opened a decade later, retaining the Hôtel de Cluny’s original layout and features.
An entire room (No 8) is dedicated to statuary from Notre Dame's façade that was removed during the Revolution.
The restored 1st-floor late-Gothic chapel, La Chapelle de l'Hôtel de Cluny – with rich carvings of Christ on the cross, 13 angels, floral and foliage ornaments – has direct access to the garden.
Gallo-Roman Bathhouse
The museum's northwestern corner is where you'll find the remains of the Gallo-Roman bathhouse, built around AD 200. Look for the display of the fragment of mosaic Love Riding a Dolphin, as well as a gorgeous marble bathtub from Rome. Outside the museum, remnants of the other rooms – a palestra (exercise room), tepidarium (warm bath) and calidarium (hot bath) – are visible.
Tapestries
Upstairs on the 1st floor (room 13) are the unicorn tapestries, representing the five senses and an enigmatic sixth, perhaps the heart. It's believed that they were originally commissioned around 1500 by the Le Viste family in Paris. Discovered in 1814 in the Château de Boussac, they were acquired by the museum in 1882.
Gardens
Small gardens to the museum’s northeast, including the Jardin Céleste (Celestial Garden) and the Jardin d’Amour (Garden of Love), are planted with flowers, herbs and shrubs that appear in works hanging throughout the museum.
Concerts
Check the schedule for daytime concerts (adult/child €6/4) lasting 45 minutes and evening concerts (€16/13) lasting 1½ hours.
Local LifeA Stroll along Rue Mouffetard
Originally a Roman road, rue Mouffetard acquired its name in the 18th century, when the now underground River Bievre became the communal waste disposal for local tanners and wood-pulpers. The odours gave rise to the name Mouffettes (‘skunks’), which evolved into Mouffetard. Today the aromas on ‘La Mouffe’, as it’s nicknamed, are infinitely more enticing, particularly at its market stalls.
1Market Shopping
Grocers, butchers, fishmongers and other food purveyors set their goods out on street stalls along this sloping, cobbled street during the Marché Mouffetard (
GOOGLE MAP
; rue Mouffetard, 5e; h8am-7.30pm Tue-Sat, to noon Sun; mCensier Daubenton).
2Fine Cheeses
You won’t even have to worry about aromas if you’re taking home something scrumptious from the fromagerie (cheese shop) Androuet (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.androuet.com; 134 rue Mouffetard, 5e; h9.30am-1pm & 4-7.30pm Tue-Fri, 9.30am-7.30pm Sat, to 1.30pm Sun; mCensier Daubenton); all of its cheeses can be vacuum-packed for free. (Be sure to look up to see the beautiful murals on the building’s façade!)
3Delicious Deli
Stuffed olives and capsicums, and marinated eggplant are among the picnic goodies at gourmet Italian deli Delizius (
GOOGLE MAP
; 134 rue Mouffetard, 5e; h9.30am-8pm Tue-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun; mCensier Daubenton), which also sells ready-to-eat hot meals, and fresh and dried pasta.
4Movie Time
Even locals find it easy to miss the small doorway leading to cinema L’Epée de Bois (
GOOGLE MAP
; http://epee-de-bois.cine-movida.com; 100 rue Mouffetard, 5e; tickets adult/child Mon & Wed €5.50/4, Tue & Thu-Sun €7.50/4; mCensier Daubenton), which screens both art-house flicks and big-budget blockbusters.
5Sweet Treats
Light, luscious macarons in flavours such as jasmine, raspberry and blackcurrant, and a mouth-watering range of chocolates are laid out like jewels at Chocolats Mococha (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.chocolatsmococha.com; 89 rue Mouffetard, 5e; h11am-8pm Tue-Sun; mCensier Daubenton). They are the creations of three maîtres chocolatiers (master chocolate-makers) – Fabrice Gillotte, Jacques Bellanger and Patrice Chapoare.
6Apéro at Le Vieux Chêne
Hosting revolutionary meetings in 1848 and believed to be Paris’ oldest bar, Le Vieux Chêne (
GOOGLE MAP
; 69 rue Mouffetard, 5e; h4pm-2am Sun-Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat; mPlace Monge) is a student favourite these days, especially during happy hour (4pm to 9pm Tuesday to Sunday, and from 4pm until closing on Monday).
7Ice Cream
All that walking and peering in at gourmet food shops will no doubt leave you hungry, which means it’s time for a stop at Gelati d’Alberto (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.gelatidalberto.com; 45 rue Mouffetard, 5e; hnoon-midnight Apr-Sep, closed Oct-Mar; c; mPlace Monge), where Italian ice-cream wizards shape your coned treat into a multiflavour flower.
8Crêpes at Chez Nicos
The signboard outside crêpe artist Nicos’ unassuming little shop, Chez Nicos (
GOOGLE MAP
; 44 rue Mouffetard, 5e; crêpes €3-6; hnoon-2am; c; mPlace Monge), lists dozens of fillings. Ask by name for his masterpiece ‘La Crêpe du Chef’, stuffed with eggplant, feta, mozzarella, lettuce, tomatoes and onions. There’s a handful of tables; otherwise, head to a nearby park.
1Top Sights
1Sights
5Eating
7Shopping
Sights
1PanthéonMAUSOLEUM
Overlooking the city from its Left Bank perch, the Panthéon's stately neoclassical dome stands out as one of the most recognisable icons on the Parisian skyline. An architectural masterpiece, the interior is impressively vast. Originally a church and now a mausoleum, it has served since 1791 as the resting place of some of France’s greatest thinkers, including Voltaire, Rousseau, Braille and Hugo. Its four newest 'residents' are Resistance fighters Germaine Tillion, Genèvieve de Gaulle-Anthonioz, Pierre Brossolette and Jean Zay.
(www.monum.fr; place du Panthéon, 5e; adult/child €8.50/free; h10am-6.30pm Apr-Sep, to 6pm Oct-Mar; mMaubert-Mutualité or RER Luxembourg)
1Institut du Monde ArabeARCHITECTURE, MUSEUM
The Arab World Institute was jointly founded by France and 18 Middle Eastern and North African nations in 1980, with the aim of promoting cross-cultural dialogue. In addition to hosting concerts, film screenings and a research centre, the stunning landmark is also home to a museum and temporary exhibition space.
(Arab World Institute; www.imarabe.org; 1 place Mohammed V, 5e; adult/child €8/4; h10am-6pm Tue-Thu, to 9.30pm Fri, to 7pm Sat & Sun; mJussieu)
1Mosquée de ParisMOSQUE
Paris’ central mosque, with a striking 26m-high minaret, was completed in 1926 in an ornate art deco Moorish style. You can visit the interior to admire the intricate tile work and calligraphy. A separate entrance at 39 rue Geoffray-St-Hilaire leads to the wonderful North African–style hammam (
GOOGLE MAP
; %01 43 31 14 32; www.la-mosquee.com; 39 rue Geoffroy-St-Hilaire, 5e; admission €18, spa package from €43; h10am-9pm Mon, Wed, Thu & Sat, 2-9pm Fri; mPlace Monge), restaurant (
GOOGLE MAP
; %01 43 31 14 32; www.la-mosquee.com; 39 rue Geoffroy-St-Hilaire, 5e; mains €15-26; hkitchen noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm; mCensier Daubenton, Place Monge) and tearoom (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.la-mosquee.com; 39 rue Geoffroy-St-Hilaire, 5e; h9am-11.30pm; mCensier Daubenton), and a small souk (actually more of a gift shop). Visitors must be modestly dressed.
(%01 43 31 14 32; www.la-mosquee.com; 2bis place du Puits de l’Ermite, 5e; adult/child €3/2; h9am-noon & 2-7pm Sat-Thu Apr-Sep, 9am-noon & 2-6pm Sat-Thu Oct-Mar; mPlace Monge)
1Jardin des PlantesGARDENS
Founded in 1626 as a medicinal herb garden for Louis XIII, Paris’ 24-hectare botanic gardens – visually defined by the double alley of plane trees that run the length of the park – are an idyllic spot to stroll around, break for a picnic (watch out for the automatic sprinklers!) and escape the city concrete for a spell. Three museums from the Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle and a small zoo (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.mnhn.fr; 57 rue Cuvier, 5e; adult/child €13/9; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 6.30pm Sat & Sun Easter-Oct, to 5pm Nov-Easter; mGare d’Austerlitz) increase its appeal.
(www.jardindesplantes.net; place Valhubert & 36 rue Geoffroy-St-Hilaire, 5e; h7.30am-8pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5.30pm Nov-Mar; mGare d’Austerlitz, Censier Daubenton, Jussieu)
1Musée de la Sculpture en Plein AirMUSEUM
Along quai St-Bernard, this open-air sculpture museum (also known as the Jardin Tino Rossi) has more than 50 late 20th-century unfenced sculptures, and makes a great picnic spot. A salad beneath a César or a baguette beside a Brancusi is a pretty classy way to see the Seine up close.
(quai St-Bernard, 5e; mGare d’Austerlitz)
1Arènes de LutèceRUINS
The 2nd-century Roman amphitheatre Lutetia Arena once seated 10,000 people for gladiatorial combats and other events. Found by accident in 1869 when rue Monge was under construction, it’s now used by locals playing football and, especially, boules (similar to lawn bowls). Hours can vary.
(www.arenesdelutece.com; 49 rue Monge, 5e; h8am-9.30pm Apr-Oct, to 5.30pm Nov-Mar; mPlace Monge)
1Muséum National d’Histoire NaturelleMUSEUM
Despite the name, the Natural History Museum is not a single building, but a collection of sites throughout France. Its historic home is in the Jardin des Plantes, and it's here you'll find the greatest number of branches: taxidermied animals in the excellent Grande Galerie de l'Évolution (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.mnhn.fr; 36 rue Geoffroy-St-Hilaire, 5e; adult/child €9/free; h10am-6pm Wed-Mon; mCensier Daubenton), and fossils and dinosaur skeletons in the Galeries d’Anatomie Comparée et de Paléontologie (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.mnhn.fr; 2 rue Buffon, 5e; adult/child €7/free; h10am-5pm Mon & Wed-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-5pm Wed-Mon Oct-Mar; mGare d'Austerlitz). The Galerie de Minéralogie et de Géologie (
GOOGLE MAP
; www.mnhn.fr; 36 rue Geoffroy-St-Hilaire, 5e; adult/child €6/free; h10am-5pm Mon & Wed-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep, 10am-5pm Wed-Mon Oct-Mar; mCensier Daubenton) is home to meteorites and crystals.
(www.mnhn.fr; place Valhubert & 36 rue Geoffroy-St-Hilaire, 5e; mGare d’Austerlitz, Censier Daubenton, Jussieu)
1SorbonneUNIVERSITY
The crème de la crème of academia flock to this distinguished university, one of the world’s most famous. Today ‘La Sorbonne’ embraces most of the 13 autonomous universities – some 45,215 students in all – created when the University of Paris was reorganised after the student protests of 1968. Visitors are not permitted to enter.
(www.sorbonne.fr; 12 rue de la Sorbonne, 5e; mCluny–La Sorbonne or RER Luxembourg)
1Square René VivianiPARK
Opened in 1928 on the site of the former graveyard of adjoining church Église St-Julien-le-Pauvre, this picturesque little park is home to the oldest tree in Paris. The black locust (Robinia pseudoacacia) was planted here in 1602 by Henri III, Henri IV and Louis XII's gardener, Jean Robin, and is now supported by concrete pillars disguised as branches and trunks.
A 1995-installed bronze fountain by Georges Jeanclos depicts the legend of Saint Julien. Roses bloom in spring and summer.
(quai de Montebello, 5e; h24hr; mSt-Michel)
UnderstandA Pivotal Year: 1968
The year 1968 was a watershed. In March a large demonstration in Paris against the Vietnam War gave impetus to protests by students of the University of Paris. In May police broke up yet another demonstration, prompting angry students to occupy the Sorbonne and erect barricades in the Latin Quarter. Workers quickly joined in, with six million people across France participating in a general strike that virtually paralysed the country.
But while workers wanted to reap greater benefits from the consumer market, the students supposedly wanted to destroy it. De Gaulle took advantage of this division and appealed to people’s fear of anarchy. A 100,000-strong crowd of Gaullists marched in support for the government, quashing any idea of revolution.
Once stability was restored the re-elected government immediately decentralised the higher education system, and implemented a series of reforms (including lowering the voting age to 18 and enacting an abortion law) throughout the 1970s to create the modern society France is today.
Eating
5Shakespeare & Company CaféCAFE$
Instant history was made when this light-filled, literary-inspired cafe opened in 2015 adjacent to magical bookshop Shakespeare & Company, designed from long-lost sketches to fulfil a dream of late bookshop founder George Whitman from the 1960s. Its primarily vegetarian menu (with vegan and gluten-free dishes available) includes homemade bagels, rye bread, soups, salads and pastries, plus Parisian-roasted Café Lomi coffee.
(www.shakespeareandcompany.com; 2 rue St-Julien le Pauvre, 5e; dishes €4-9.50; h10am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 7.30pm Sat & Sun; W
vc; mSt-Michel)
5Restaurant ATGASTRONOMY$$$
Trained by some of the biggest names in gastronomy (Pierre Gagnaire included), chef Atsushi Tanaka showcases abstract artlike masterpieces incorporating rare ingredients (charred bamboo, kohlrabi turnip cabbage, juniper berry powder, wild purple fennel, Nepalese Timut pepper) in a blank-canvas-style dining space on stunning outsized plates. Just off the entrance, steps lead to Bar à Vins AT (
GOOGLE MAP
; %01 56 81 94 08; http://atsushitanaka.com; 4 rue du Cardinal Lemoine, 5e; dishes €12-16; h7pm-2am Tue-Sun; mCardinal Lemoine), his cellar wine bar.
(%01 56 81 94 08; www.atsushitanaka.com; 4 rue du Cardinal Lemoine, 5e; 4-/6-course lunch menus €35/55, 12-course dinner tasting menu €95; h12.15-2pm & 8-9.30pm Tue-Sat; mCardinal Lemoine)
5SolaFUSION$$$
Pedigreed chef Hiroki Yoshitake combines French technique with Japanese sensibility, resulting in gorgeous signature creations (such as miso-marinated foie gras on feuille de brick served on sliced tree trunk). The artful presentations and attentive service make this a perfect choice for a romantic meal – go for the full experience and reserve a table in the Japanese dining room downstairs.
(%dinner 01 43 29 59 04, lunch 09 65 01 73 68; www.restaurant-sola.com; 12 rue de l'Hôtel Colbert, 5e; menus lunch €48-78, dinner €98; hnoon-1.30pm & 7.30-9pm Tue-Sat; mSt-Michel)
5Le Coupe-ChouFRENCH$$
This maze of candlelit rooms inside a vine-clad 17th-century townhouse is overwhelmingly romantic. Ceilings are beamed, furnishings are antique, open fireplaces crackle and background classical music mingles with the intimate chatter of diners. As in the days when Marlene Dietrich dined here, advance reservations are essential. Timeless French dishes include Burgundy snails, steak tartare and bœuf bourguignon.
(%01 46 33 68 69; www.lecoupechou.com; 9 & 11 rue de Lanneau, 5e; 2-/3-course menus €27/33; hnoon-2pm & 7-10.45pm Sep-Jul, 7-10.45pm Aug; mMaubert-Mutualité)
5L’AOCTRADITIONAL FRENCH$$
‘Bistrot carnivore’ is the strapline of this ingenious restaurant concocted around France’s most respected culinary products. The concept is Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC), the French precursor to Europe-wide AOP, meaning everything has been reared or produced according to strict guidelines. The results are outstanding. Choose between favourites (steak tartare) or the rotisserie menu, ranging from roast chicken to suckling pig.
(%01 43 54 22 52; www.restoaoc.com; 14 rue des Fossés St-Bernard, 5e; 2-/3-course lunch menus €21/29, mains €19-34; hnoon-2pm & 7.30-11pm Tue-Sat; mCardinal Lemoine)
5Les PiposTRADITIONAL FRENCH$$
Natural wines are the speciality of this bar à vins, which it keeps in its vaulted stone cellar. First-rate food includes a fish of the day and oysters from Brittany, along with standards like confit of duck and a mouthwatering cheese board, which includes all the gourmet names (bleu d’Auvergne, brie de Meaux, Rocamadour and St-Marcellin). No credit cards.
(%01 43 54 11 40; www.les-pipos.com; 2 rue de l’École Polytechnique, 5e; mains €11-30; h8am-2am Mon-Sat; mMaubert-Mutualité)
5La Tour d’ArgentGASTRONOMY$$$
The venerable Michelin-starred ‘Silver Tower’ is famous for its caneton (duckling), rooftop garden with glimmering Notre Dame views and fabulous history harking back to 1582 – from Henry III’s inauguration of the first fork in France to inspiration for the winsome animated film Ratatouille. Its wine cellar is one of Paris’ best; dining is dressy and exceedingly fine.
(%01 43 54 23 31; www.latourdargent.com; 15 quai de la Tournelle, 5e; menus lunch €85, dinner €180-200, mains €75-100; h12.30-2pm & 7-10.30pm Tue-Sat Sep-Jul; mCardinal Lemoine)
5Le Comptoir du PanthéonCAFE$
Enormous, creative meal-size salads are the reason to choose this as a dining spot. Magnificently placed across from the domed Panthéon on the shady side of the street, its pavement terrace is big, busy and quintessentially Parisian – turn your head away from Voltaire’s burial place and the Eiffel Tower pops into view. The bar closes at 1.45am every day.
(%01 43 54 75 36; 5 rue Soufflot, 5e; salads €11-13, mains €12.40-15.40; hkitchen 7am-11pm Mon-Sat, 8am-11pm Sun; W; mCardinal Lemoine or RER Luxembourg)
5OdettePATISSERIE$
Odette's ground-floor space sells choux (pastry puffs) with seasonal flavoured cream fillings (nine at any one time), such as coffee, lemon, green tea, salted caramel, pistachio and forest berries. Upstairs, its art deco tearoom plays 1920s music and serves choux along with tea, coffee and Champagne. The black-painted timber façade, fronted by tables, and geranium-filled 1st-floor window box are charming.
(www.odette-paris.com; 77 rue Galande, 5e; 1/6/12 pastry puffs €1.90/9.90/19.80; h10.30am-7.30pm; mSt-Michel)
5Prosper et FortunéeMODERN FRENCH$$
Chef Eric Lévy's 12-seat premises is effectively a clandestine supper club. Dining at this tucked-away little restaurant is an intimate experience, from watching Lévy prepare daily changing dishes (raw mackerel with yuzu and lemon confit; prime fillet with black radish) using mostly organic premium produce in his open kitchen then personally delivering each course (and bill). Prior reservations are essential.
(%01 43 37 70 39; 50 rue Broca, 5e; lunch/dinner menus €23/45; hnoon-3pm & 7-10.30pm Tue-Fri, 7-10.30pm Sat Sep-Jul; mLes Gobelins)
UnderstandLocal Lingo
Parisians have long had a reputation for being unable or unwilling to speak English, but this has changed dramatically, particularly in the digital age. Signposts, menus, establishment names and buzzwords increasingly incorporate English.
Addressing people in French makes a huge difference, even simply ‘Bonjour/bonsoir, parlez-vous anglais?’ (Good day/evening, do you speak English?). Often what is mistaken for Parisian arrogance is the equivalent of someone addressing you in a foreign language in your home country. On detecting an accent, many Parisians will switch to English to facilitate conversation (feel free to say if you prefer to converse in French).
Another potential cause for misunderstanding is the cut-to-the-chase directness of French communication. Whereas in English it’s common to say, for example, ‘Can I have a coffee, please?’, the French ‘Un café, s’il vous plaît.’ (A coffee, please.) can sound abrupt to an anglophone ear. Likewise, the French tendency to frame a question ‘You would like a coffee?’ rather than ‘Would you like a coffee?’ may seem forward, though it’s unintentional.
Drinking
6Le Pub St-HilairePUB
‘Buzzing’ fails to do justice to the pulsating vibe inside this student-loved pub. Generous happy hours last from 5pm to 9pm and the place is kept packed with a trio of pool tables, board games, music on two floors, hearty bar food and various gimmicks to rev up the party crowd (a metre of cocktails, ‘be your own barman’ etc).
(2 rue Valette, 5e; h3pm-2am Mon-Thu, 4pm-5am Fri & Sat; mMaubert-Mutualité)
6Little BastardsCOCKTAIL BAR
Only house-creation cocktails are listed on the menu at uberhip Little Bastards – among them Fal' in Love (Beefeater gin, cranberry juice, lime, mint, guava purée and Falernun clove-, ginger- and almond-syrup), Be a Beet Smooth (Jameson, coriander, sherry, egg white and pepper) and Deep Throat (Absolut vodka, watermelon syrup and Pernod) – but they'll also mix up classics if you ask.
(5 rue Blainville, 5e; h6pm-2am Mon-Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; mPlace Monge)
6Le CrocodileBAR
This green-shuttered bar has been dispensing affordable cocktails (363 at last count, with gummy-'bear' crocodiles in the glass) since 1966. Arrive late for a truly eclectic crowd, including lots of students, and raucous revelry. Hours can vary (dawn closings are common). Happy hour runs from 6pm to 11pm Monday to Thursday and 6pm to 10pm Friday and Saturday.
(6 rue Royer-Collard, 5e; h6pm-2am Mon-Sat; mOdén or RER Luxembourg)
6Strada CaféCOFFEE
Beans from Parisian roastery l'Arbre à Café (Brazilian, Ethiopian and Costa Rican espresso blend, and Ethiopian filter blend), Lyon roastery Mokxa (Honduran bio single-origin espresso) and hot new Amsterdam roastery White Label (Rwandan filter) underpin the success of sunlit corner cafe Strada. Electrical sockets are plentiful and the international baristas are passionate about their brews.
(www.stradacafe.fr; 24 rue Monge, 5e; h8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6.30pm Sat & Sun; W; mCardinal Lemoine)
Local LifeCafé de la Nouvelle Mairie
Hidden away in a small, fountained square just around the corner from the Panthéon, the narrow wine bar Café de la Nouvelle Mairie (
GOOGLE MAP
; %01 44 07 04 41; 19 rue des Fossés St-Jacques, 5e; mains €12-32; hkitchen 8am-midnight Mon-Fri; mCardinal Lemoine) is a neighbourhood secret, serving blackboard-chalked natural wines by the glass and delicious seasonal bistro fare.
Entertainment
3Café UniverselJAZZ, BLUES
Café Universel hosts a brilliant array of live concerts with everything from bebop and Latin sounds to vocal jazz sessions. Plenty of freedom is given to young producers and artists, and its convivial relaxed atmosphere attracts a mix of students and jazz lovers. Concerts are free, but tip the artists when they pass the hat around.
(%01 43 25 74 20; www.cafeuniversel.com; 267 rue St-Jacques, 5e; h9pm-2am Mon-Sat; W; mCensier Daubenton or RER Port Royal)
3Le ChampoCINEMA
This is one of the most popular of the many Latin Quarter cinemas, featuring classics and retrospectives looking at the films of such actors and directors as Alfred Hitchcock, Jacques Tati, Alain Resnais, Frank Capra, Tim Burton and Woody Allen. One of the two salles (cinemas) has wheelchair access.
(www.lechampo.com; 51 rue des Écoles, 5e; tickets adult/child €9/4; mCluny–La Sorbonne)
3Caveau de la HuchetteJAZZ, BLUES
Housed in a medieval caveau (cellar) used as a courtroom and torture chamber during the Revolution, this club is where virtually all the jazz greats (Georges Brassens, Thibault...) have played since the end of WWII. It attracts its fair share of tourists, but the atmosphere can be more electric than at the more serious jazz clubs. Sessions start at 10pm.
(%01 43 26 65 05; www.caveaudelahuchette.fr; 5 rue de la Huchette, 5e; Sun-Thu €13, Fri & Sat €15; h9.30pm-2.30am Sun-Wed, to 4am Thu-Sat; mSt-Michel)
Shopping
7Shakespeare & CompanyBOOKS
Shakespeare's enchanting nooks and crannies overflow with new and secondhand English-language books. The original shop (12 rue l’Odéon, 6e; closed by the Nazis in 1941) was run by Sylvia Beach and became the meeting point for Hemingway’s ‘Lost Generation’. Readings by emerging and illustrious authors take place at 7pm most Mondays. There's a wonderful cafe and various workshops and festivals.
(%01 43 25 40 93; www.shakespeareandcompany.com; 37 rue de la Bûcherie, 5e; h10am-11pm; mSt-Michel)
7Le Bonbon au PalaisSWEETS
Kids and kids-at-heart will adore this sugar-fuelled tour de France. The school-geography-themed boutique stocks rainbows of artisan sweets from around the country. Old-fashioned glass jars brim with treats like calissons (diamond-shaped, icing-sugar-topped ground fruit and almonds from Aix-en-Provence), rigolettes (fruit-filled pillows from Nantes), berlingots (striped, triangular boiled sweets from Carpentras and elsewhere) and papalines (herbal liqueur-filled pink-chocolate balls from Avignon).
(www.bonbonsaupalais.fr; 19 rue Monge, 5e; h10.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat; mCardinal Lemoine)
7Bières CultesDRINKS
At any one time this beer-lovers' fantasyland stocks over 400 different craft and/or international brews and also has two on tap to taste on the spot. Just some of its wares when you visit might include US-brewed Alaskan Smoked Porter, German smoked Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier from Bamberg, and New Zealand Monteith's. Check its website for events and seasonal releases.
(http://bierescultes.fr; 44 rue des Boulangers, 5e; h3-8pm Mon, 11am-2pm & 3-9pm Tue-Thu, 11am-9pm Fri & Sat; mCardinal Lemoine)
7Abbey BookshopBOOKS
In a heritage-listed townhouse, this welcoming Canadian-run bookshop serves free coffee (sweetened with maple syrup) to sip while you browse tens of thousands of new and used books, and organises literary events and countryside hikes.
(%01 46 33 16 24; 29 rue de la Parcheminerie, 5e; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat, 2-7pm Sun; mCluny–La Sorbonne)
7CrocodiscMUSIC
Music might be more accessible than ever before in the digital age, but for many it will never replace rummaging through racks for treasures. New and secondhand CDs and vinyl discs at 40 rue des Écoles span world music, rap, reggae, salsa, soul and disco, while No 42 has pop, rock, punk, new wave, electro and soundtracks.
(www.crocodisc.com; 40 & 42 rue des Écoles, 5e; h11am-7pm Tue-Sat mid-Aug–late Jul; mMaubert-Mutualité)
7Au Vieux CampeurSPORTS & OUTDOORS
This outdoor store has colonised the Latin Quarter, with 30-and-counting different outlets scattered about. Each is devoted to your favourite sport: climbing, skiing, diving, camping, biking and so on. While it's a great resource if you need any gear, the many boutiques make shopping something of a treasure hunt – especially as many outlets change what they sell with the seasons.
(www.auvieuxcampeur.fr; 48 rue des Écoles, 5e; h11am-7.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 11am-9pm Thu, 10am-7.30pm Sat; mMaubert-Mutualité)
7AlbumCOMICS
Album specialises in bandes dessinées (comics and graphic novels), which have an enormous following in France, with everything from Tintin and Babar to erotic comics and the latest Japanese manga. Serious comic collectors – and anyone excited by Harry Potter wands, Star Wars, Superman and other superhero figurines and T-shirts (you know who you are!) – shouldn’t miss it.
(www.album.fr; 67 bd St-Germain, 5e; h10am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-7pm Sun; mCluny–La Sorbonne)