Aasleagh Falls: 355
Abbeys and monasteries: Cong Abbey, 348; Ennis Friary, 295; Glendalough, 148–149; Hore Abbey, 165–166; Monasterboice, 137–138, 479; Old Mellifont Abbey, 137; Reasc Monastery, 282–283; St. Mary’s Abbey (Howth), 126
Abbey Theatre (Dublin): 60, 90, 101, 481–482
Abortion: 477
Accommodations: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Aillwee Caves: 308
Airbnb.com: 33
Airfares (airlines): budgeting, 5; carry-on restrictions, 10–11; cheap flights, 520; contact info, 503; Dublin, 116
Airlink (Dublin): 51
Airports: 520; Aran Islands, 343; Belfast, 397; contact info, 503; Cork, 209; Dublin, 50–51, 116; Kerry, 249, 288–289; Shannon, 294, 298–299; VAT refunds, 18
Ancestors, tracing: See Genealogical research
Ancient stone circles: about, 460–461. See also Archaeological sites
An Daingean Peninsula: See Dingle Peninsula
An Daingean Town: See Dingle Town
An Earagail: 449
Anglo-Irish Treaty (1921): 75
An Plassy (shipwreck): 340
An Post Museum (Dublin): 62
Antrim, County: 404–420
Antrim Coast: 404–405, 412–420; map, 416–417; transportation, 404–405. See also Portrush
Antrim Mountains and Glens: 420
Apartment rentals: overview, 33
Apprentice Boys Memorial Hall (Derry): 427
Aquariums: Dingle, 257–258; Salthill, 320
Aran Islands: 327–343; ferries, 303, 341–343
Archaeological sites: overview, 460–461, 477–478; Caherconnell Ring Fort, 306; Cahergal Ring Fort, 234, 243; Dún Aenghus (Inishmore), 332–333; Dunbeg Fort, 279–280; Gallarus Oratory, 283–284; Grianan Aileach Ring Fort, 446–447; Hill of Tara, 136–137, 457; Kenmare Ancient Stone Circle, 218, 220; Knowth, 131–132, 134–135; Leacanabuaile Ring Fort, 234, 243; Newgrange, 131–132, 133–134; Poulnabrone Dolmen, 306–307; Puicin Wedge Tomb, 262; Rock of Cashel, 162–167; Staigue Fort, 234, 238
Ardmore: 210–211
Arkin Fort (Inishmore): 334
Arlington Hotel (Dublin): 103
Art: overview, 477–480. See also specific art museums and artists
Ashford Castle: 348–349
Atlantaquaria Aquarium (Salthill): 320
Atlantic Telegraph Company: 242, 243
ATMs: 13–14. See also specific destinations
Audio Europe, Rick Steves: 10, 521
Avondale House: 149–150
Back Door travel philosophy: 39
Bacon (Francis) Studio (Dublin): 92–93
Bailey Lighthouse (Howth): 127
Ballinskelligs: 237
Ballyferriter: 270, 282; golf, 259
Ballyvaughan: 308
Balscadden House (Howth): 127
B&Bs: See Bed-and-breakfasts
Bangor Coastal Path: 400
Banks: See Money; and specific destinations
Banquet, at Dunguaire Castle: 309, 326
Barronstrand Street (Waterford): 179
Barry’s Old Time Amusement Arcade (Portrush): 408
Battle of Castlebar: 349–350
Battle of Kinsale: 196–197, 198–199, 463–464
Battle of the Boyne (1690): 135–136, 434, 466, 525; site of, 135–136
Beaches: Ardmore, 210; Bangor, 400; Bunbeg, 450; Carroll’s Cove, 235; Dingle, 262; Dun Laoghaire, 122; Inishmore, 333; Portrush, 405; St. Finian’s Bay, 237; Salthill, 320
Beal na Blath: 213
Beara Peninsula: 220–221; map, 221
Beatty (Chester) Library (Dublin): 68, 83–85
Bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs): overview, 26–27, 30. See also specific destinations
Beehive huts (clochans): 279, 280, 283
Beer: 34–36; Dingle Brewing Company, 258; Guinness Storehouse (Dublin), 69, 96–98; Smithwick’s Brewery (Kilkenny), 156, 158. See also Pubs
Belfast: 369–398; arrival in, 372–373; eating, 395–397; excursion areas, 398–403; helpful hints, 373, 376; itineraries, 370–371; layout of, 371–372; maps, 370, 374–375, 385, 393; shopping, 373; sights, 379–391; sleeping, 392–394; tourist information, 372; tours, 377–379; transportation, 372–373, 376, 397–398
Belfast Botanic Gardens: 389
Belfast City Hall: 384–386
Belfast International Airport: 397
Belfast Titanic Society: 378
Belleek Pottery Visitors Centre: 443
Biking (bike rentals): Belfast, 373, 376, 378; Dingle, 251, 258–259; Dublin, 53, 57; Galway, 315; Inisheer, 338; Inishmore, 330; Kenmare, 217; Kilkenny, 155; Kinsale, 192; Portrush, 408; Westport, 351–352
Bird-watching: the Burren, 300, 308; Rathlin Island, 419–420; Skellig Michael, 245–246
Birkenhead: ferries, 398
Birth control: 476–477
Bishop’s Gate (Derry): 430
Bishop’s Palace (Waterford): 178
Black Fort (Inishmore): 334
Blarney Stone and Castle: 211–212
Blarney Woolen Mills: 212
Blasket Islands: 280–281, 285–287; ferry, 253
Blennerville Windmill (Tralee): 288
Blessing of the Boats (Dingle): 249, 526
Bloody Foreland: 451
Bloody Sunday (1972): 100, 429, 430, 432, 434–436, 437, 473; Monument (Derry), 434–435
Blue Coat School (Derry): 427
Boating: Bangor, 400; Kenmare, 221; Rathlin Island, 419; Valentia Island, 241
Boat travel and cruises: Aran Islands, 303, 341–343; Belfast, 378; Blasket Islands, 286; Cliffs of Moher, 302; Cobh, 206–207; Dingle, 253, 286; Doolin, 301; Howth, 126; Kinsale, 193; map, 506–507; Skellig Michael, 244; Valentia Island, 241. See also Ferries
Bog Bodies (Dublin): 73–75
Bogs: about, 356–358
Bogside Inn (Derry): 437
Bogside Murals (Derry): 430–437; map, 431
Bollard’s Pub (Kilkenny): 158
Book of Kells (Dublin): 65–67, 68, 70–71, 478–479
Books, recommended: 523–524
Boyne Valley: See Valley of the Boyne
Braveheart (movie): 139, 141, 142, 152
Brazen Head, the (Dublin): 102–103
Brendan, Saint: 254, 295, 296, 317, 458
Bridge End: 446
Bridget, Saint: 300–301
British pound: 15
Broighter Hoard: 76
Bru Boru Cultural Centre (Rock of Cashel): 168
Brú na Bóinne: 131–135; tours, 130–131; Visitors Center and Museum, 132–133
Budgeting: 5–8
Bulman Bar (Summercove): 203–204
Bunbeg: 450
Bunratty Castle and Folk Park: 291
Burial mounds: See Archaeological sites
Burren, the: 304–308; botany of, 307; bus tours, 292; maps, 291, 305; planning tips, 290–291; selfguided driving tour, 304–308
Burren Birds of Prey Centre: 308
Burren Centre (Kilfenora): 305
Buses (bus travel): 505, 509–511; Antrim Coast, 404–405; Belfast, 376, 397; Dublin, 50, 53–54, 57–58, 116; map, 506–507. See also specific destinations
Bushmills Distillery: 416–417
Business hours: 12
Cabs: See Taxis
Caherconnell Ring Fort: 306
Cairnryan: ferries, 397–398
Car insurance: 514
Carnegie Arts Center (Kenmare): 217
Car rentals: 5, 9, 511–514; Dublin, 503–504
Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge: 417–418
Carrickfergus Castle: 391
Carroll’s Cove: 235
Car travel (driving): 505, 515–519; Antrim Coast, 412; Belfast, 372–373; best three-week trip, 10–11; the Burren, 304–308; Cobh, 209; Connemara, 345–359; County Clare, 290–291; Derry, 424; Dingle, 249, 289; distances and time, 513; driving tips, 518–519; Dublin, 51–52; Dun Laoghaire, 119; Ennis, 294; Galway, 314, 326; Glendalough, 148; Healy Pass, 220–221; Kenmare, 217; Kinsale, 191; map, 346–347; navigating roundabouts, 515; Ring of Kerry, 231–237; road signs, 516; Sally Gap, 147–148; Slea Head Drive, 275–285; Wicklow Mountains, 145
Cash: See Money
Cashel (town): 168; eating, 169; sleeping, 168–169
Cashel, Rock of: See Rock of Cashel
Castlebar: 349–350
Castle Cove: 238
Castles: architecture, 462–463; Ashford Castle, 348–349; Blarney Castle, 211–212; Bunratty Castle, 291; Carrickfergus Castle, 391; Desmond Castle (Kinsale), 199; Dublin Castle, 68, 82–83; Dunguaire Castle, 309, 326; Dunluce Castle, 418–419; Glenveagh Castle, 448–449; Kilkenny Castle, 155–156; Leamaneh Castle, 306; Lynch’s Castle (Galway), 316; Minard Castle, 260–262; O’Brien’s Castle (Inisheer), 338; Trim Castle, 141–142
Castletownbere: 221
Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (Waterford): 178–179
Cathedrals: See Churches and cathedrals
Cell (mobile) phones: 9, 495, 498–499, 500–501
Celts (Celtics): 71, 73–74, 76, 255, 279, 282–283, 332, 413, 455–457, 478–479, 525
Centre for Migration Studies (near Omagh): 443
Ceol na hinse (Ennis): 295–296
Chaplin, Charlie: 235
Charles Fort (Kinsale): 198
Chester Beatty Library (Dublin): 68, 83–85
Chorister’s Hall Medieval Museum (Waterford): 177–178
Christ Church Cathedral (Dublin): 86
Christ Church Cathedral (Waterford): 179
Churches and cathedrals: architecture, 464–465; Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (Waterford), 178–179; Christ Church Cathedral (Dublin), 86; Christ Church Cathedral (Waterford), 179; First Derry Presbyterian Church (Derry), 427; Holy Cross Church (Kenmare), 220; Kilmalkedar church, 284–285; Long Tower Church (Derry), 429, 439–440; St. Benen’s Church (Inishmore), 333–334; St. Canice’s Cathedral (Kilkenny), 156; St. Cavan’s Church (Inisheer), 339–340; St. Columb’s Cathedral (Derry), 439; St. Enda’s Church (Inishmore), 333; St. James’ Church (Dingle), 255, 263, 265; St. Mary’s Church (Dingle), 255–257; St. Mary’s Pro-Cathedral (Dublin), 62–63; St. Nicholas Cathedral (Galway), 319–320; St. Nicholas Collegiate Church (Galway), 316, 321–322; St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Dublin), 87; Seven Churches (Inishmore), 333–334
Claddagh (Galway): 318
Claddagh Records (Dublin): 88
Clare, County: 290–309; map, 291
Clare, Mary Francis: 219
Clare Museum (Ennis): 294
Clark (Harry) Windows of Díseart (Dingle): 255–257
Clew Bay: 355
Clifden: 359
Cliffs of Moher: 299–301
Clochans (beehive huts): 279, 280, 283
Clogher Head: 282
Clontarf: 123–124
Clothing sizes: 527
Cnoc Fola: 451
Coastal Path (Bangor): 400
Cobblestone Pub (Dublin): 94
Coffin ships: 353–354; Dunbrody, 186; Jeanie Johnston, 93–94
Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas (Galway): 316, 321–322
Collins, Michael: 74–75, 82, 86, 100, 213, 471
Columba (Colmcille), Saint: 333, 427, 428, 444, 458
Columbanus, Saint: 458
Communication: 494–505
Confiance, MV (Belfast): 388
Cong Abbey: 348
Connemara: 344–359; bus tours, 344–345; selfguided driving tour, 345–359
Connemara National Park: 358–359
Connemara Regional Airport: 343
Connolly Station (Dublin): 50, 51, 115–116; sleeping near, 109
Consulates: 502
Coomakesta Pass: 235
Cork, County: 189–213; map, 190
Cork Airport: 209
Cormac’s Chapel (Rock of Cashel): 163–164
Corran Binne: 453–454
Corrib River: 318
Costs of trip: 5–8
Cottage rentals: overview, 33
Country houses: Avondale House, 149–150; Derrynane House, 238–240; Gardens of Powerscourt, 146–147; Kylemore Abbey, 358; Mount Stewart House, 402–403; Muckross House, 227–229; Rothe House (Kilkenny), 156
County Antrim: 404–420
County Clare: 290–309; map, 291
County Cork: 189–213; map, 190
County Donegal: 421–422, 444–454; map, 446–447; selfguided driving tour, 445–454. See also Derry
County Kerry: 214–243
County Kilkenny: 153–160
County Mayo: 344–360; map, 346–347
County Wexford: 182–188; map, 183
Court House Pub (Dingle): 255, 264
Craggaunowen Open-Air Folk Museum: 295
Croagh Patrick: 354–355
Croke Park Stadium (Dublin): 98–99, 100
Cromwell, Oliver: 174, 184, 185, 219, 260, 311, 465–466
Crooke: 185
Croppies Acre (Dublin): 98
Cross of Cong: 77
Crown Liquor Saloon (Belfast): 387–388, 395
Cruises: See Boat travel and cruises
Crystal: 262; Waterford Crystal Visitor Centre, 173–175
Cultra: 389–391
Curragh Racecourse: 152
Currency and exchange: 13–14
Cushendall: 420
Customs regulations: 18
Dance: step dancing, in Galway, 320. See also Ceilidh
DART (Dublin): 54, 118–119, 124
Declan, Saint: 210
Derry: 421–442; eating, 441–442; helpful hints, 424–425; history of, 428–429, 432; maps, 423, 431; nightlife, 440; self-guided walks, 426–437; sights, 437–440; sleeping, 440–441; tourist information, 424; tours, 425; transportation, 424, 442
Derrybeg: 450
Derry Guild Hall: 438
Derrynane House: 238–240
Derry Walls: 426–428
Desmond Castle (Kinsale): 199
De Valera, Eamon: 74–75, 82, 96, 294, 471–472
Dick Mack’s Pub (Dingle): 256, 264
Dingle Bay Charters: 253
Dingle Brewing Company: 258
Dingle Crystal: 262
Dingle Harbor: 253, 256, 257, 258
Dingle Hillwalking Club: 252
Dingle Horse Riding: 259
Dingle Peninsula: 247–289; maps, 248, 250–251, 276; self-guided tour, 276–285; tours, 252–253; vs. Ring of Kerry, 236
Dingle Pitch & Putt: 259
Dingle Town: 248–275; eating, 270–273; helpful hints, 249–252; history of, 254; maps, 268–269, 272; nightlife, 263–265; self-guided walk, 253–256; shopping, 262–263; sights/activities, 256–262; sleeping, 265–270; tourist information, 249; tours, 252–253; transportation, 249, 275, 286
Dining: See Eating; and specific destinations
Discounts: See Money-saving tips
Distilleries: See Whiskey
Divorce: 477
Dog (greyhound) racing: 99, 321
Donegal, County: 421–422, 444–454; map, 446–447; self-guided driving tour, 445–454. See also Derry
Doolin: 301–303; ferries, 342–343
Doo Lough Valley: 355
Doonties: 262
Driminaught: 448
Driving: See Car travel
Drombeg Stone Circle: 196, 461
Druid Theatre (Galway): 316
Dublin: 46–117; at a glance, 68–69; arrival in, 50–52; eating, 110–115; entertainment, 101–103; excursion areas, 118–144; helpful hints, 52–53; itineraries, 47–48; layout of, 48–49; maps, 49, 60–61, 66–67, 80–81, 106–107, 112–113; self-guided walk, 58–64; shopping, 101; sights, 64–99; sleeping, 103–110; tourist information, 49–50; tours, 55–58; transportation, 50–52, 53–54, 115–117
Dublin Airport: 50–51, 116, 119
Dublin City Hall: 85–86
Dubliner, meeting a: 52–53
Dublin Literary Pub Crawl: 56
Dublin Pass: 49–50
Dublin Writers Museum: 69, 89–90
Dún Aenghus (Inishmore): 332–333
Dunbeg Fort: 279–280
Dunbrody Famine Ship (New Ross): 186
Dunfanaghy: 451–453
Dunfanaghy Workhouse: 451
Dunganstown: 185
Dun Laoghaire: 48, 118–122; ferries, 117; map, 120–121; sights/activities, 120–122; transportation, 118–119
Dunluce Castle: 418–419
Dunluce Centre (Portrush): 409
Dunquin: 280–281
Eask Tower (Dingle): 258–259, 277
Easter Uprising (1916): 56, 74, 470–471
East Pier (Howth): 126
Eating: 33–36; budgeting, 6–7; tipping, 17. See also Markets; and specific destinations
Economy: 473–474, 476; Northern Ireland, 365; Republic of Ireland, 44
Electricity: 12
E-mail: 504. See also specific destinations
Embassies: 502
Emigration: Dunbrody Famine Ship (New Ross), 186; Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship and Famine Museum (Dublin), 93–94; Queenstown Story (Cobh), 207–208
Enda, Saint: 333
Ennis: 292–299; eating, 298; map, 293; nightlife, 295–296; sights, 294–295; sleeping, 297–298; transportation, 298–299
Enniscorthy: 187–188
Ennis Friary: 295
Enniskerry: 146–147; sleeping, 147
Entertainment: budgeting, 7–8. See also Ceilidh; Music; Theater
Enya (musician): 444
Euro currency: 13–15
Exchange rates: 15
Eyre Square (Galway): 311, 318–319
Falls Road (Belfast): 383–384
Famine: See Great Potato Famine
Far and Away (movie): 279, 280, 524
Ferries: 510; Aran Islands, 341–343; Belfast, 397–398; Blasket Islands, 286; Doolin, 301; Dublin, 51, 116–117; Hook Head, 182; map, 506–507; Skellig Michael, 244
Films, recommended: 524. See also specific films
First Derry Presbyterian Church (Derry): 427
Fishing: Cong, 348; Dingle, 253; Howth, 124, 126; Ring of Kerry, 235, 237; Trim, 140
Flag: Northern Ireland, 365; Republic of Ireland, 44
Folk music: See Music
Food: See Eating; Markets
Football: See Gaelic football
Four Courts (Dublin): 59
Foyle River: 422
France: ferries, 117
Francis Bacon Studio (Dublin): 92–93
Fungie the Dolphin (Dingle): 257
Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA): 100, 469–470; Museum (Dublin), 69, 98–99
Gaelic language: 274, 450, 482–486; place names, 483–484; pleasantries, 485; political terms, 486; pub and music words, 485
Gaiety Theatre (Dublin): 101–102
Gallarus Oratory: 283–284
Galway: 310–326; eating, 324–325; helpful hints, 314–315; history of, 311, 317; itineraries, 311; map, 312–313; nightlife, 321–322; sights, 316–321; sleeping, 322–324; tourist information, 314; tours, 315–316; transportation, 314, 326
Galway Arts Festival: 314, 525
Galway City Museum: 317
Galway Oyster Festival: 314, 526
Garden of Remembrance (Dublin): 64
Gardens of Powerscourt: 146–147
Garnish Island: 220–221
Gate Theatre (Dublin): 64, 101
Genealogical research: 79, 156, 208, 443
General Post Office (Dublin): 61–62
Geography: Northern Ireland, 364; Republic of Ireland, 44
George Best Belfast City Airport: 397
Georgian House, no. 29 (Dublin): 69, 79–80
Ghost Walk Tour (Kinsale): 193
Giant’s Causeway: 414–415; Visitors Centre, 414
Glacier Lake: 234
Glebe Stone Circle: 461
Glenariff: 420
Glencree: 147–148
Glendalough: 148–149
Glens of Antrim: 420
Glenveagh Castle and National Park: 448–449
Glór Irish Music Centre (Ennis): 295
Gogarty’s Pub (Dublin): 102
Golden Mile (Belfast): 387–388
Golf: Ballyferriter, 259; Kenmare, 222; Portrush, 408
Gortahork: 451
Government: Northern Ireland, 365; Republic of Ireland, 44
Grafton Street (Dublin): 68, 80–81; eating, 110–111; shopping, 101
Grand Opera House (Belfast): 387
Great Blasket Centre: 286–287
Great Blasket Island: 285–287
Great houses: See Country houses
Great Potato Famine (1845-49): 95, 219, 228, 305, 355, 451, 468–469; Dunbrody Famine Ship (New Ross), 186; Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship and Famine Museum (Dublin), 93–94; Strokestown Park National Famine Museum, 360
Gresham Hotel (Dublin): 63
Grianan Aileach Ring Fort: 446–447
Griffith, Arthur: 75
Guidebooks: 522–523; Rick Steves, 520–521; updates, 10, 53, 376, 522
Guided tours: See Tours
Guinness Storehouse (Dublin): 69, 96–98
Guinness World Records: 97
Hall of the Red Earl (Galway): 316–317
Hands Across the Divide (Derry): 438–439
Ha’ Penny Bridge (Dublin): 59, 89
Harry Clark Windows of Díseart (Dingle): 255–257
Healy Pass: 220–221
Henry Street (Dublin): shopping, 101
Heritage Card: 20–21
Heritage Island Explorer Touring Guide: 21–22
Heuston Station (Dublin): 50, 51, 115
Hiking: Ardmore, 210; Ballyvaughan, 308; Bangor, 400; Cliffs of Moher, 302; Croagh Patrick, 354; Derry, 426–427; Dingle, 251, 252, 258–259; Giant’s Causeway, 415; Glendalough, 149; Horn Head, 453–454; Howth, 126–127; Kenmare, 221; Killarney National Park, 229; Kinsale, 193, 198; Mount Errigal, 449; Skellig Michael, 245; Trim, 142; Westport, 351–352
Hill of Tara: 72, 136–137, 457
History: 455–473
Holy Cross Church (Kenmare): 220
Holyhead: ferries, 117
Hook Head Lighthouse: 182–183, 185
Hore Abbey: 165–166
Horn Head: 453–454
Horseback riding: Dingle, 259; Kenmare, 220–221; Ventry, 259, 278
Horse racing: 152
Horses, at Irish National Stud: 150–152
Hostels: overview, 32–33. See also specific destinations
Hotel Europa (Belfast): 387, 392
Hotels: overview, 24–27, 31; reservations, 28–29. See also Sleeping; and specific destinations
Howth: 48–49, 123–128; eating, 127–128; map, 125; sights, 125–127; sleeping, 127
Hugh Lane Gallery (Dublin): 92–93
Inch Strand (Dingle): 262
Inisheer Island: 337–341; ferries, 303, 341–343; map, 339
Inishmore Island: 328–337; eating, 337; entertainment, 334; ferries, 341–343; maps, 329, 336; sights, 332–334; sleeping, 335–337; tourist information, 330; tours, 331
Internet access: 504. See also specific destinations
IRA: See Irish Republican Army
Irish dancing: step, in Galway, 320. See also Ceilidh
Irish Film Institute (Dublin): 88–89
Irish football: See Gaelic football
“Irish fry” breakfast: 27, 33–34
Irish language: See Gaelic language
Irish music: See Music
Irish National Heritage Park (Wexford): 187
Irish National Stud: 150–152
Irish Rebellion (1798): 46, 239, 467; National 1798 Centre (Enniscorthy), 187
Irish Republican Army (IRA): 362, 365, 366–367, 384, 432, 433, 435, 436, 438, 471
Irish whiskey: See Whiskey
Irish-Yankee vocabulary: 486–491
Iveragh Peninsula: See Ring of Kerry
James Fort (Kinsale): 198–199
James Joyce Cultural Centre (Dublin): 90–92
James Joyce Tower and Museum (Dun Laoghaire): 120–121
Japanese Gardens (Kildare): 152
Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship and Famine Museum (Dublin): 93–94
John F. Kennedy Park (Galway): 318–319
Joyce, James: 82, 90, 481; Bloomsday (Dublin), 52, 525; Cultural Centre (Dublin), 90–92; Tower and Museum (Dun Laoghaire), 120–121
Keating, Sean: 480
Kenmare: 214–225; eating, 224–225; helpful hints, 215, 217; history of, 219; map, 216; nightlife, 222; sights, 218–222; sleeping, 222–224; tourist information, 215; tours, 217; transportation, 225
Kenmare Ancient Stone Circle: 218, 220, 461
Kenmare Golf Club: 222
Kenmare Heritage Centre: 218
Kenmare Lace and Design Centre: 218
Kennedy, John F.: 185–186, 318
Kennedy Homestead (County Wexford): 185–186
Kerry, County: 214–243. See also specific destinations
Kerry, Ring of: See Ring of Kerry
Kerry County Museum (Tralee): 287–288
Kevin, Saint: 148
Kilfenora: 305–306
Kilkenny: 153–160; maps, 154, 157
Kilkenny, County: 153–160
Kilkenny Castle: 155–156
Kilkenny Design Centre: 156
Killarney: 226–227
Killarney National Park: 226, 229
Killarney Outlet Centre: 226–227
Killary Harbor: 355–356
Killeany: 333–334
Killybegs: 452
Kilmainham Gaol (Dublin): 68, 96
Kilmalkedar church: 284–285
Kilmurvey (Inishmore): 333–334
Kilronan (Inishmore): 330–331, 332, 334; eating, 337; map, 336; sleeping, 335–336
Kinsale: 190–204; eating, 201–204; entertainment, 203–204; helpful hints, 191–192; history of, 196–197; maps, 190, 194–195; sights, 193, 198–200; sleeping, 200–201; tourist information, 191; tours, 192–193; transportation, 191, 204
Kinsale Regional Museum: 199–200
Kinsale Rugby Sevens Tournament: 191
Kinvarra: 309
Kissane Sheep Farm: 229–230
Kite Studios (Waterford): 173
Knightstown: 237
Knock: 359–360
Knowth: 131–132, 134–135; tours, 130–131
Kylemore Abbey: 358
Lace: 219; Kenmare Lace and Design Centre, 218
Ladies View: 229
Lagan Boat Company (Belfast): 378
Lagan Legacy (Belfast): 388
Language: See Gaelic language
“Latin Quarter” (Galway): 316–317
Laundry: 32. See also specific destinations
Leacanabuaile Ring Fort: 234, 243
Leamaneh Castle: 306
Leenane: 356
Leenane Sheep and Wool Centre: 356
Leinster House (Dublin): 78
Leprechaun Museum (Dublin): 93
Letterfrack: 358
Letterkenny: 447
Liberty Hall (Dublin): 59
Liddy, Pat: 56
Lindbergh, Charles: 281
Linen Hall Library (Belfast): 386–387
Lisbeth Mulcahy Weaver (Dingle): 262
Liscannor: 301
Lisdoonvarna: 303–304
Lispole: 262
Literature: 91, 480–482; Dublin Literary Pub Crawl, 56; Dublin Writers Museum, 69, 89–90. See also specific writers
Little Museum of Dublin: 82
Little Skellig: 243, 246, 277–278
Liverpool: ferries, 398
Lodging: See Sleeping; and specific destinations
Londonderry: See Derry
Long’s Horseriding Centre (Ventry): 259, 278
Long Tower Church (Derry): 429, 439–440
Lough Tay: 148
Lough Veagh: 448–449
Louisburgh: 355
LUAS: 54
Lusitania: 197, 199–200, 205, 207–208
Lynch’s Castle (Galway): 316
Lyric Theatre (Belfast): 389
Macroom: 212–213
Mail: 504–505. See also specific destinations
Mansions: See Country houses
Maps: to buy, 521–522; legend, 2. See also Map Index
Maritime Museum of Ireland (Dun Laoghaire): 121
Markets: Belfast, 373; Dingle Town, 252; Dublin, 62, 101; Dun Laoghaire, 123; Galway, 314, 316; Howth, 124, 128; Kenmare, 215; Kinsale, 192; Tralee, 287
Matchmaking Festival (Lisdoonvarna): 303–304
Mayo, County: 344–360; map, 346–347
Meagher, Thomas Francis: 177, 178
Medieval banquet, at Dunguaire Castle: 309, 326
Medieval Museum (Waterford): 177–178
Meeting House Square (Dublin): 88–89
Megalithic art: See Archaeological sites
Mellifont Abbey: 137
Mellon Centre for Migration Studies (near Omagh): 443
Merrion Square (Dublin): 69, 79
Messenger Bike Rally (Dublin): 52
Metric system: 527
Midleton Distillery: 211
Millennium Bridge (Dublin): 59, 89
Millennium Forum (Derry): 440
Millennium Walk (Dublin): 101
Milltown Cemetery (Belfast): 383–384
Minard Castle: 260–262
Mobile phones: 9, 495, 498–499, 500–501
Moher: See Cliffs of Moher
Monasteries: See Abbeys and monasteries
Money: 13–18; budgeting, 5–8. See also specific destinations
Money-saving tips: 13; Dublin, 49–50; lodging vouchers, 23–24; sightseeing passes, 20–22
Monks’ Fishing Hut (Cong): 348
Moore Street Market (Dublin): 62
Mountain Man (Dingle): 251, 263
Mount Errigal: 449
Mount Stewart House: 402–403
Movies, recommended: 524. See also specific movies
Muckross House: 227–229
Muckross Traditional Farms: 228–229
Murals: Belfast, 382–384. See also Bogside Murals
Murrisk: 353
Museum of Free Derry: 434
Museum of Treasures (Waterford): 175–176
Museum of Vintage Radio (Howth): 126
Music: 36–37; glossary of Gaelic terms, 485; Belfast, 395; Cashel, 168; Derry, 440; Dingle Town, 263–265; Doolin, 302; Dublin, 88, 102, 103; guided tours, 55–56, 68; Dun Laoghaire, 122; Ennis, 295–296; Galway, 320, 321–322; Inishmore, 334; Kenmare, 222; Kilkenny, 158; Kinsale, 203–204; Portrush, 411; Tralee, 287; Waterford, 181; Westport, 350
Napoleonic Tower (Inisheer): 338–339
Nassau Street (Dublin): shopping, 101
National Concert Hall (Dublin): 102
National Gallery (Dublin): 69, 78
National Leprechaun Museum (Dublin): 93
National Library (Dublin): 79
National Maritime Museum of Ireland (Dun Laoghaire): 121
National Museum: Archaeology (Dublin): 68, 71–78, 477; map, 73
National Museum: Decorative Arts and History (Dublin): 69, 98
National Museum: Natural History (Dublin): 78–79
National Transport Museum (Howth): 126
National 1798 Centre (Enniscorthy): 187
Neale: 349
Newgrange: 131–132, 133–134, 477; tours, 130–131
Newmills Corn and Flax Mills: 447–448
New Ross: 186
Newtown: 142
Nightlife: budgeting, 7–8. See also Ceilidh; Music; Theater
Nomads (Travellers): about, 357
North Down Museum (Bangor): 400
Northern Ireland: 362–454; at a glance, 7; almanac, 364–365; currency, 15, 365, 368; map, 363; overview, xix–xxiii, 362–368; safety, 367–368; terminology, 367. See also specific destinations
North Pier (Bangor): 400
Northwest 200 Race: 406
Number Twenty-Nine Georgian House (Dublin): 69, 79–80
O2 Theatre (Dublin): 102
O’Brien’s Castle (Inisheer): 338
Oceanworld (Dingle): 257–258
O’Connell, Daniel: 59, 238–240, 403, 468
O’Connell Bridge (Dublin): 58, 68
O’Connell Street (Dublin): 58–64, 69; map, 60–61
Odyssey, the (Belfast): 379
Old Bushmills Distillery: 416–417
Old Jameson Distillery (Dublin): 94
Old Mellifont Abbey: 137
Old Midleton Distillery: 211
Olympic: 380
Omagh: 443
O’Malley, Grace: 355
O’Neill, Hugh: 196–197, 462–463
Organized tours: See Tours
O’Shea’s Merchant Pub (Dublin): 103
Packing checklist: 529
Palace Bar (Dublin): 103
Pan Celtic International Festival: 525
Parnell, Charles Stewart: 63, 96, 149–150, 469
Partry: 349
Passports: 9
Patrick, Saint: 163, 457–458; Croagh Patrick, 228, 354–355; Day, 52, 525
Peace Bridge (Derry): 438
Peace Wall (Belfast): 383
Peace Wall (Derry): 430
Pearse, Patrick: 61–62, 71, 74, 386, 470
Peat bogs: about, 356–358
Penn, William: 212
Performing arts: See Ceilidh; Music; Theater
Phone numbers, useful: 502–504
Phones: 494–502
Pickie Fun Park (Bangor): 400
Plain of Tipperary: 165–166
Playhouse Theatre (Derry): 440
Polish immigration to Ireland: 475
Political murals: See Bogside Murals; Murals
Population: Northern Ireland, 364; Republic of Ireland, 44
Portrush: 405–412; eating, 410–411; map, 407; sights/activities, 408–409; sleeping, 409–410; transportation, 411–412
Portrush Recreation Grounds: 408
Post offices: 504–505; General Post Office (Dublin), 61–62. See also specific destinations
Potato Famine (1845-1849): See Great Potato Famine
Poulnabrone Dolmen: 306–307
Power & Glory, The (Trim): 142
Powerscourt Gardens: 146–147
Prehistoric sites: See Archaeological sites
Pubs: 34–36; glossary of Gaelic terms, 485; Ardmore, 211; Belfast, 377; Cobh, 209; Derry, 440; Dingle Town, 255, 263–264; Doolin, 302; Dublin, 94, 102–103; guided tours, 55–56, 68; Dun Laoghaire, 123; Ennis, 296, 298; Galway, 321; Howth, 128; Inisheer, 341; Inishmore, 334; Kenmare, 222, 225; Kilfenora, 305; Kilkenny, 158, 160; Kinsale, 203–204; Leenane, 356; Portrush, 411; Trim, 142, 144; Waterford, 181
Puck Fair: 525
Puicin Wedge Tomb: 262
Queenstown Story (Cobh): 207–208
Queen’s University (Belfast): 376
Quiet Man, The (movie): 348, 349, 524
Rail travel: See Train travel
Rathlin Boathouse Visitor Centre: 419
Rathlin Island: 419–420
Rathlin Island Seabird Centre: 419–420
Reader feedback: 38
Reasc Monastery: 282–283
Rebel Tours of Dublin: 57
Red Hand of Ulster: 390
Reginald’s Tower (Waterford): 176–177
Rental properties: 33
Republic of Ireland: 42–360; at a glance, 6–7; almanac, 44; currency, 15; map, 43; overview, xiii–xix, 42–45. See also specific destinations
Resources from Rick Steves: 520–521
Restaurants: See Eating; and specific destinations
Ring forts: See Archaeological sites
Ring of Kerry: 230–243; map, 232–233; ring forts, 234–235; self-guided driving tour, 234–235, 237; tours, 217, 231; vs. Dingle Peninsula, 236
River Valley Riding Stables (Kenmare): 220–221
Rock of Cashel: 160–169; maps, 154, 161; self-guided tour, 162–167
Romans, ancient: 42, 333, 413, 456, 457
Room and board: See Sleeping
Rose of Tralee International Festival: 287, 526
Rossaveel: ferries, 341–342
Rossville Street (Derry): 429, 432–435
Rothe House (Kilkenny): 156
Roundabouts: about, 515
Roundstone: 359
Roundwood: 148
Royal Portrush Golf Club: 408
Ryan’s Daughter (movie): 254, 262, 276–277, 281, 282, 524
Safety, in Northern Ireland: 367–368
Saints: See specific saints
St. Augustine Chapel (Derry): 427
St. Benen’s Church (Inishmore): 333–334
St. Canice’s Cathedral (Kilkenny): 156
St. Cavan’s Church (Inisheer): 339–340
St. Columb’s Cathedral (Derry): 439
St. Enda’s Church (Inishmore): 333
St. Finian’s Bay: 237; sleeping, 240
St. George’s Market (Belfast): 373
St. James’ Church (Dingle): 255, 263, 265
St. Joseph’s Convent and Díseart (Dingle): 255–257
St. Mary’s Abbey (Howth): 126
St. Mary’s Church (Dingle): 255–257
St. Mary’s Pro-Cathedral (Dublin): 62–63
St. Nicholas Cathedral (Galway): 319–320
St. Nicholas Collegiate Church (Galway): 316, 321–322
St. Patrick’s Cathedral (Dublin): 87
St. Patrick’s Cross (Rock of Cashel): 163
St. Stephen’s Green (Dublin): 69, 82; sleeping near, 106–109
St. Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre (Dublin): 81, 111
Sally Gap: 147–148
Salmon Weir Bridge (Galway): 320
Salthill: 320; eating, 326; sleeping, 324
Sandycove: sleeping, 122
Sandy Row (Belfast): 384
Scilly Walk (Kinsale): 198, 203
Sciuird Archaeology Tours (Dingle): 252–253
Scotland: ferries, 397–398
Scuba diving: 420
Seasons: 8–9
Self-catering cottages: overview, 33
“Seven Churches” (Inishmore): 333–334
Shankill Road (Belfast): 384
Shaw, George Bernard: 69, 90, 91, 243, 481
Shopping: budgeting, 8; clothing sizes, 527; customs regulations, 18; hours, 12; VAT refunds, 17–18. See also Crystal; Lace; Markets; and specific destinations
Sightseeing: at a glance, 6–7; budgeting, 7–8; passes, 20–22, 49–50; planning tips, 18–20; priorities, 8. See also specific sights and destinations
Sinn Fein: 74–75, 365, 367, 383, 470–471
Skellig Experience Centre (Valentia): 237, 241
Skellig Michael: 243–246
Skelligs Chocolate Factory: 237
Slea Head: 280–281; eating, 273, 275
Slea Head Drive: 275–285
Sleep code: 25
Sleeping: 22–33; budgeting, 6–7; rates and deals, 23–24; reservations, 9, 28–29; types of accommodations, 24–33; vouchers, 31. See also specific destinations
“Sleeping Giant”: 282
Smartphones: 9, 495, 498–499, 500–501
Smithfield Village (Dublin): 94
Smithwick’s Brewery (Kilkenny): 156, 158
Somme Heritage Centre: 402
South Pole Inn (Dingle): 262
Spanish Arch (Galway): 317
Spanish Armada: 42, 190, 281, 437–438
Special events: See Festivals
Spike Island (Cobh): 206–207
Sports: See Biking; Fishing; Gaelic Athletic Association; Gaelic football; Golf; Hiking; Hurling
Stena Line: 51, 117, 397–398, 510
Step dancing, in Galway: 320
Steves, Andy, weekend tour packages: 58
Stone circles: about, 460–461. See also Archaeological sites
Storm Beach: 261
Strokestown Park National Famine Museum: 360
Strongbow: 86, 156, 174, 178, 179, 459
Surfing: 237
Swift, Jonathan: 87, 90, 91, 467, 481
Synge, J. M.: 481–482
Tara, Hill of: 72, 136–137, 457
Taxes: VAT refunds, 17–18
Taxis: Belfast, 376; Dublin, 54; tipping, 17. See also specific destinations
Telephone cards: 500–502
Telephone numbers, useful: 502–504
Telephones: 494–502
Temperatures, average monthly: 528
Temple Bar (Dublin): 68, 88–89; eating, 114–115; shopping, 101
Temple Bar Square (Dublin): 88
Theater: Belfast, 389; Derry, 440; Dublin, 101–102; Dun Laoghaire, 122; Galway, 316; Kilkenny, 158; Waterford, 179
Theatre Royal (Waterford): 179
Time zones: 12
Tipping: 17
Titanic: 205–208, 369, 378–382
Titanic Experience (Cobh): 207
Titanic Quarter (Belfast): 372, 379–382
Torc Waterfall: 229
Tory Island: 453
Tour guides: 9. See also specific destinations
Tourist information: 493–494. See also specific destinations
Tours: Rick Steves, 522; Antrim Coast, 405; Belfast, 377–379; the Burren, 292; Cobh, 206–207; Connemara, 344–345; Derry, 425; Dingle Peninsula, 252–253; Dublin, 55–58; Ennis, 294; Galway, 315–316; Inishmore, 331; Kenmare, 217; Kilkenny, 155; Kinsale, 192–193; Knowth, 130–131; Rock of Cashel, 162; Valley of the Boyne, 130–131; Waterford, 173; Wicklow Mountains, 145–146
Tower Museum Derry: 437–438
Traditional Irish music: See Music
Trad on the Prom (Salthill): 320
Train travel: 505, 508–509; Belfast, 372, 376, 397; budgeting, 5–6; Dublin, 50, 115–116; map, 506–507. See also specific destinations
Tralee: 287–289
Transportation: 505–520; budgeting, 5–6; map, 506–507. See also Boat travel and cruises; Buses; Car travel; Ferries; Train travel; and specific destinations
Transport Museum (Cultra): 389–391
Transport Museum (Howth): 126
Travel advisories: 502–503
Travel insurance: 9
Travellers (nomads): about, 357
Travel smarts: 4–5
Trim: 138–144; eating, 144; map, 140; sights, 141–143; sleeping, 143–144
Trim Castle: 141–142
Trinity College (Dublin): 64–67, 68, 70–71; sleeping, 105–106
Trinity Old Library (Dublin), Book of Kells: 65–67, 68, 70–71
Trip costs: 5–8
Twenty-Nine Georgian House (Dublin): 69, 79–80
Ulster American Folk Park (near Omagh): 443
Ulster Defense Association (UDA): 367
Ulster Folk Park and Transport Museum (Cultra): 389–391
Ulster Museum (Belfast): 388–389
Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF): 362, 366, 367, 390, 470
Valentia Heritage Museum: 241, 243
Valentia Island: 240–243
Valley of the Boyne: 129–138, 477; map, 130; sights, 131–138; tours, 130–131. See also Trim
VAT refunds: 17–18
Ventry (town): 278
Ventry Bay: 277–278
Ventry Estate: 277
Verbal Arts Centre (Derry): 429–430
Victoria Square (Belfast): 373; eating, 396
Vikings: 46, 65–66, 76–78, 170, 174, 176, 458–459; Dublinia (Dublin), 69, 87
*Viking Splash Tours (Dublin): 58
Vinegar Hill: 188
Vocabulary, Irish-Yankee: 486–491
Waterford: 171–181; eating, 181; helpful hints, 173; history of, 174; map, 172; nightlife, 179; shopping, 173, 179; sights, 173–179; sleeping, 180–181; tourist information, 172; tours, 173; transportation, 181
Waterford Crystal Visitor Centre: 173–175
Waterford Museum of Treasures: 175–176
Watergate Theatre (Kilkenny): 158
West Kerry Craft Guild (Dingle): 262
West Pier (Howth): 126
Wexford, County: 182–188; map, 183
Whiskey: Old Bushmills Distillery, 416–417; Old Jameson Distillery (Dublin), 94; Old Midleton Distillery, 211
Wicklow Mountains: 145–150; map, 146
Writers Museum (Dublin): 69, 89–90