MAKING PIZZA
Pasta is my favorite food, but I see pizza as more life-sustaining. Not only is pizza a fermented product, making it theoretically healthy, but pasta is part of a meal while pizza is the meal. Pizza is also among the planet’s most versatile foods since its definition is so malleable; in my view, it is any flatbread with toppings. You can really cast a wide net and find regional variations of pizza all around the world, but I’m focusing here on styles from the countries I am most familiar with: the United States and Italy.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT GRAIN FOR THE JOB
Chris Bianco, pizza-making legend and owner of Pizzeria Bianco and Tratto in Phoenix, Arizona, once told me that pizza is bread. He’s right, of course, so when I think about pizza I apply bread-baking reasoning to choose the ideal flour. Considering pizza as a thin bread that has to stretch, I almost always reach for a flour that offers good extensibility (see this page). You can let the dough ferment for a long time and let the acidity really run wild because the toppings can balance out the sour flavor.
Generally, my pizza recipes call for hard winter wheats, which provide strength and structure. But I am not limited to those varieties and often choose a blend of flours to impart flavor. Detroit-Style Pizza (this page), for example, leans on Kansas Turkey wheat for strength and incorporates weak rye for its sweet flavor. When I need a dough to be stretchy and extensible, as for Pizza al Taglio (this page) or Focaccia (this page), I choose durum wheat blended with another flour to give strength, because durum on its own would disintegrate during the long fermentations those doughs undergo.
MILLING FOR PIZZA
Milling for pizza is similar to milling for bread (see this page), except that you want to mill the flour slightly finer and extract a percentage of the bran (see this page).
EXTRACTION
The razor-blade-like nature of bran interferes with the extensibility potential of pizza dough, so unless otherwise noted, extract 70% of the bran (30% inclusion) with a #70 mesh sieve (see this page). Reserve the bran to use in other recipes.
If you want to try the advanced technique of making pizza dough with whole wheat flour, start with the focaccia recipe (this page) and then work your way to the other pizza doughs, adding bran in 10% increments each time.
MIXING AND KNEADING
Some of the doughs begin with an autolyze phase (see this page). This bread-making technique combines water and flour alone, allowing the water to hydrate the flour and to activate its enzymes naturally before the other ingredients are introduced. It works well for doughs that ferment for a short time, whereas long-fermented doughs don’t benefit from the autolyze process. Almost all of the doughs are mixed in a stand mixer for a few minutes. The mixer simulates hand kneading and builds strength in the dough with minimal effort.
FERMENTING
Many of the doughs in this chapter have a long fermentation, some reaching 72 hours. With extended fermentation, there’s a period in which strength increases but extensibility is diminished. But when the dough reaches a certain window, the dough’s extensibility improves as the strength diminishes. You want to catch the dough at the sweet spot when it is still strong enough to capture air yet still fully extensible, resulting in a thin, crispy crust. With cold fermentation, you get a 4-hour window to find the sweet spot when the dough is perfectly fermented; room-temperature-fermented doughs, on the other hand, offer a much smaller margin of error. These recipes are designed for you to catch the dough at the right moment.
SHAPING
Some of the doughs are shaped on a water-dampened surface rather than a floured one. This technique provides the benefit of not introducing unfermented flour into the dough. It’s easier to work with very hydrated doughs on water, but you do have to work more quickly to prevent the dough from becoming sticky.
STRETCHING
Stretching is the most deceptively challenging part of pizza making. It’s a set of movements that will be perfected over a lifetime. Every time you mishandle dough, you squander days of work—not to mention nourishing food—so learning the stretching technique that harnesses the extensibility of the dough without overstressing the structure is key. There are lots of process shots in the recipes so you can learn the techniques more quickly. Remember, a busy pizzaiolo might make 400 pizzas in a night; it’s tough to gain that type of experience in a home setting, so cheat a bit and watch YouTube videos of masters like Chris Bianco and mimic their subtle movements, which impose maximum impact with minimal intervention.
BAKING
In Italy, domed wood-fired ovens are used to bake Pizza Romana and Pizza Napoletana, while Pizza al Taglio is baked in electric deck ovens. Focaccia may be baked in either. Connecticut-Style Apizza is traditionally blasted in hot coal ovens (although many have been retrofitted with gas). In all cases, the pizzas are baked at very high temperatures that can’t be replicated in a home oven. The doughs in this chapter have been developed so that they do work in home ovens while still remaining true to the texture and strength of their respective styles.
Home ovens reach 500°F to 550°F and you can best harness this heat with a baking stone. A baking stone will give your pizza a better crust, better volume, and incomparable lightness. If you do not have one, an inverted baking sheet or unglazed quarry tiles will work as substitutes. For the best results, preheat the stone or inverted baking sheet on the second-highest rack for at least 45 minutes before baking. Recipe cooking times depend upon your baking surface and will be shorter if you use a stone. Allow the stone to return to temperature between bakes, which may take 10 to 15 minutes.
An additional way to keep heat constant inside the oven is to fill the oven with cast-iron pots and pans and preheat them along with the stone.
PIZZA TOPPINGS
At the end of the chapter, I offer some of my favorite toppings. You can follow my recommendations for pairing toppings and pizza bases or mix and match as you like.
PIZZA AL TAGLIO
MAKES TWO 18 × 13-INCH PIZZAS
In Rome, pizza al taglio, or pizza by the slice, is sold by weight at bakeries and takeout places. The pizza is baked on sheet pans or slabs, then cut to order. It differs from an American slice in many ways, both in shape—pizza al taglio is square or rectangular—and in ingredients, but it’s similar in that it’s supposed to be quick, cheap fast food. But when I make it, I am not bogged down by the time and space constraints, not to mention the narrow profit margins, that cause most Roman al taglio joints to stick with mid- to low-quality ingredients. My approach is to ferment the dough for a long time so all the complex starch turns to simple starch, giving a crispier crust, more flavor, and more acidity. The result is so delicious that I want to eat it one tray—not one slice—at a time!
I prefer Iraq durum for its ability to capture carbon dioxide and the fact that it doesn’t degrade during long fermentation the way another durum would (most durum wheats cannot be fermented for a long time, especially in the presence of a lot of water). When blended, Iraq durum and Red Fife team up to provide the strength needed for a wet dough—we’re at 94% hydration. Also, Red Fife is really extensible, so it stretches nicely, and it has bold flavor. Prepare this dough 72 hours before baking.
VARIATION
Instead of durum and hard winter wheat, use 600 grams each of farro flour and Redeemer flour. The farro will give a ton of stretch, and its wheaty flavor profile will go really nicely with a range of toppings.
300 grams durum flour (I like Iraq), plus more for dusting
900 grams hard winter wheat flour (I like Red Fife)
888 grams tepid water
2½ grams active dry yeast
28 grams sea salt
Neutral oil (see this page), for greasing
Desired toppings (beginning on this page)
In a large bowl, whisk together the durum and hard winter wheat flours.
Pour the water into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, and then add the flour mixture. Mix on low speed until the flour is just incorporated, about 1 minute. Remove the dough hook and stir the bottom to ensure there is no unincorporated flour. If there is, continue mixing. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set the dough aside to hydrate at room temperature for 45 minutes.
Uncover the bowl, switch to the paddle attachment, and mix the dough on medium-low speed for 4 minutes. Add the yeast and salt, and mix on medium speed for 4 minutes, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Test the dough’s strength with the “windowpane” test (see this page). If you can see through the dough without breaking it, the dough is properly developed. Otherwise mix for 1 minute more, then test again. If after a total of 6 minutes of mixing the dough is not passing the test, set it aside for 15 minutes and try again.
With a bench scraper, loosen the dough from the sides of the bowl; then turn it out onto a work surface brushed sparingly with water.
PRE-SHAPE THE DOUGH: With two wet hands slightly tilted downward, lift the dough from the middle and let it hang. The dough will stretch as it hangs. Let the dough stretch down onto the work surface, then drop the middle part onto the resting hanging ends. Repeat the lifting, hanging, and dropping process once more. Drag the dough across the work surface toward you with both hands. Turn it 90 degrees and drag it again. Repeat the turning and dragging at least 4 and no more than 6 times, until you have a rough ball. Transfer the dough to a bowl, cover it with plastic wrap, and place it in the refrigerator to cold-ferment for about 24 hours.
The fermented dough will show signs such as bubbles on the surface and an airy structure. Uncover the bowl, and with two wet hands, repeat the lifting, hanging, and dropping process 2 more times.
Cut the dough in half with the bench scraper or a sharp knife. Transfer each dough ball to its own lightly greased medium bowl, cover each with plastic wrap, and return them to the refrigerator to ferment for another 48 hours. The fermented dough will have large bubbles on the surface. If it doesn’t, continue to ferment at room temperature for 4 hours.
Preheat the oven to 500ºF and set a baking stone or inverted baking sheet on the second-highest rack in the oven to preheat as well.
Grease two baking sheets and set them aside.
Carefully turn one dough ball out onto a lightly floured work surface, gently detaching it from the bowl with your fingers if necessary. Dust the top of the dough with flour. Then gently, starting at the top of the dough and working toward the bottom, press your fingertips into the dough (1). Flip the dough over (2) and, pressing more firmly, press the edges and then the center of the dough from top to bottom with your fingertips.
Dust the surface of the dough once more with flour. Fold the dough in half (3). Dust the exposed work surface with more flour. Return the folded part to the work surface, then repeat the folding and flour dusting with the other half. Transfer the dough to one of the prepared baking sheets (4). Fit the dough to the baking sheet by gently pushing it with spread fingertips, moving from the center outward (5). If it springs back, allow it to rest for a few minutes before trying again. Repeat with the remaining piece of dough. Set the dough aside to rest for 5 minutes.
With your fingertips, make indentations all over the dough to distribute the air pockets evenly (6), then add your choice of toppings.
Bake one pizza until the crust is golden with a few dark spots and the toppings are cooked, about 15 minutes. Set it aside to cool on a wire rack for a few minutes before slicing. Allow the oven temperature to return to 500ºF before baking the second pizza.
Serve the pizza in slices or slivers.
To “blind bake” pizza dough—that is, bake it without toppings—you want to be sure the dough is sufficiently pressed down and anchored to the pan as it won’t have toppings to weigh it down for even cooking. To blind bake Pizza al Taglio, it is sufficient to make indentations all over the dough with your fingertips as the recipe instructs. To blind bake Bianco-Style Pizza for the Butter, Honey, and Lavender topping (this page), push your fingertips hard into the dough all over except the edges. This will keep the dough from inflating irregularly as it bakes, while contributing to the thick rim.
PIZZA NAPOLETANA
MAKES FOUR 10-INCH PIZZAS
When I was a little kid growing up in Brooklyn, I thought New York–style pizza was a direct descendant of its ancestral Italian homeland. It wasn’t until I began studying Italy’s numerous styles—especially author and baking guru Peter Reinhart’s account of bakeries in Italy—that I started to notice the defects of NYC pies, especially their flaccid crusts, sweet sauces, and oily toppings. At age twenty-six, I made my first trip to Naples. Equipped with a list of pizzerias given to me by acclaimed chef Michael White, I checked out a bunch of spots, and I was shocked. I couldn’t believe the dough was so soft that it cooked in 60 seconds, that tomatoes could be so intense, and that the mozzarella was prized way more than the flour. My adoration of the New York pie waned as I started to understand what pizza can be when treated properly by a passionate pizzaiolo with a well-maintained oven and quality ingredients.
I think pizza should be accessible, so I have adapted this dough to work in a home oven—no need to invest in fancy equipment or a wood-burning pizza oven. I use Frederick soft spring wheat flour because it maintains that signature white hue, mild flavor, and soft crumb that is synonymous with Naples’s most famous food. Prepare this dough 36 hours ahead of time.
630 grams water, warmed to 77°F
1,000 grams soft spring wheat flour (I like Frederick)
14 grams sea salt
2 grams active dry yeast
Neutral oil (see this page), for greasing and brushing
Desired toppings (beginning on this page)
Pour the water into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, and then add the flour. Mix on low speed until the flour is incorporated, about 1 minute. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add just the salt and the yeast and mix on medium speed for 6 minutes, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides and bottom of the mixing bowl. Continue on high speed for 2 minutes. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set it aside at room temperature for 3 hours.
With a bench scraper, loosen the dough from the sides of the bowl, then turn it out onto a work surface brushed sparingly with water. With the bench scraper or a sharp knife, divide the dough into 4 pieces, each weighing about 330 grams.
Place the palm of your hand on top of one piece of dough, resting your thumb and pinkie against the sides and your other fingertips on the counter. Gently move the ball in circles to form a sphere, taking care to prevent any tears. Repeat this process with the remaining dough pieces.
Place the shaped dough balls on a greased baking sheet. Brush the dough lightly with neutral oil and cover the whole sheet with plastic wrap. Transfer it to the refrigerator and allow the dough to cold-ferment for 36 hours. The fermented dough will show signs of active fermentation such as bubbles on its surface and an airy structure. If not, discard the dough and begin again.
Three hours before baking, remove the dough from the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature, still covered. The dough will rise slightly as it warms.
Preheat the oven to 500ºF and set a baking stone or inverted baking sheet on the second-highest rack in the oven to preheat as well.
Place one dough ball on a well-floured surface, then sprinkle more flour on top. Start working the dough into a small disk by pushing your fingertips flat into the dough (1), leaving the edge untouched and the center portion just slightly higher. Continue until you have a round disk about 6 inches in diameter (2). Flip the disk over and move it to a portion of the work surface that is just lightly floured.
Place both hands on top, palms down, side by side. Use one hand to gently pull the dough away from the center, working slowly and carefully to prevent tearing (3). Add a light dusting of flour to the work surface if the dough begins to stick. Give the dough a one-eighth turn and repeat, repositioning your hands. Continue until the disk is about 10 inches in diameter with a thick rim around the edge. Finally, push your fingertips hard into the dough all over except for the rim. This will keep the dough from inflating irregularly as it bakes, while contributing to the signature thick crust of the Neapolitan pizza style.
Transfer the shaped dough to a pizza peel or a parchment-lined inverted baking sheet. Add your choice of toppings and transfer the pizza to the preheated baking stone. Bake until the crust is slightly charred around the edges and the toppings are cooked, 6 to 10 minutes. Slice and serve immediately.
Repeat with the remaining dough balls, allowing the oven to return to 500ºF before baking each pizza.
PIZZA ROMANA
MAKES FOUR 12- TO 15-INCH PIZZAS
In addition to being Italy’s best bread (just the facts, folks), pizza is also the country’s most famous export. Not every city has its own style, but many do and places like Naples have been defined by their native flatbread. I dig Roman style. Pizza makers in the Italian capital barely ferment their dough and I love the chewy, crispy, thin-crusted results. While Roman pizzerias rarely ferment their dough for more than 6 hours, I have extended the proofing time to accommodate Edison, a heady hard winter wheat, which cold-ferments for 24 to 48 hours. Just as with the Pizza al Taglio (this page), we don’t have the limitations of Rome’s narrow-profit-margin pizzerias, which have to move product fast, so we can develop flavor through fermentation. The small amount of Magog adds a nice earthy undertone.
1 scant gram active dry yeast
280 grams cold water
450 grams hard winter wheat flour (I like Edison), plus more for dusting
50 grams Magog wheat flour
12 grams sea salt
12 grams extra-virgin olive oil
Neutral oil (see this page), for greasing and brushing
Desired toppings (beginning on this page)
In a small bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the cold water. Set the bowl aside for a few minutes until the yeast has dissolved.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the hard winter wheat and Magog flours.
Pour the yeast mixture into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, and then add the flour mixture. Mix on low speed until the dough comes together, about 3 minutes, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Set the dough aside for 5 minutes to hydrate. Then add the salt and mix on medium speed for 4 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and has developed good elasticity. With the mixer running on medium speed, slowly add the olive oil and mix until incorporated.
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow the dough to rest for about 30 minutes at room temperature.
With a bench scraper, loosen the dough from the sides of the bowl and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface. With the bench scraper or a sharp knife, cut it into 4 equal pieces.
Working with one piece of dough at a time, take four edges and pull and fold them into the center. Do not flatten. The dough will tighten up and take on a round shape. Flip the dough seam-side down on the work surface. Place the palm of your hand on top of the ball, resting your thumb and pinkie against the sides and your other fingertips on the counter. Gently move the ball to form a sphere, taking care to prevent any tears. Repeat this process with the remaining dough pieces.
Place the shaped dough balls on a greased baking sheet. Brush them lightly with neutral oil and cover the whole baking sheet with plastic wrap. Transfer it to the refrigerator and allow the dough to cold-ferment for at least 24 and up to 48 hours. The fermented dough will show signs of active fermentation such as bubbles on its surface and an airy structure. If not, discard the dough and begin again.
Three hours before baking, remove the dough from the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature, still covered. The dough will rise slightly as it warms.
Preheat the oven to 500ºF and set a baking stone or inverted baking sheet on the second-highest rack in the oven to preheat as well.
Place one dough ball on a well-floured surface, then sprinkle more flour on top. Start working the dough into a small disk by pushing your fingertips near the center of the dough and radiating outward toward the edges, leaving the center just slightly higher. Continue until you have a round disk about 6 inches in diameter and ¼ inch thick. Flip the disk over and move it to a portion of the work surface that is just lightly floured.
Place both hands on top, palms down, side by side. Use one hand to gently pull the dough away from the center, working slowly and carefully to prevent tearing. Add a light dusting of flour to the work surface if the dough begins to stick. Give the dough a one-quarter turn and repeat, repositioning your hands. Continue until the disk is 12 to 15 inches in diameter and as thin as possible without tearing.
Transfer the shaped dough to a pizza peel or a parchment-lined inverted baking sheet. Add your choice of toppings and transfer the pizza to the preheated baking stone. Bake until the crust is crisp and the toppings are cooked, 8 to 9 minutes. Slice and serve immediately.
Repeat with the remaining dough, allowing the oven to return to 500ºF before baking each pizza.
CONNECTICUT-STYLE APIZZA
MAKES TWO 18-INCH APIZZAS
As the name suggests, Connecticut-style pizza was pioneered in the Constitution State. It was put on the map by rival New Haven pizzerias Pepe’s and Sally’s. The dough for Connecticut pies, called “apizza” locally, is similar to that of pizza Napoletana, but the resulting pies are much bigger, lack a raised crust, and are cooked in coal-fired ovens, which get crazy hot. The heat comes from the bottom—hot steel powered by coal—which allows you to add more water and stretch a larger round of dough that can still bake evenly and get crispy. In fact, it gets way crispier than a pizza Napoletana, and it spends more time in the oven—so it gives you time to add toppings that take longer to cook, like clams, the quintessential apizza condiment.
My top spot in New Haven is Frank Pepe’s Pizzeria, located in the historic Wooster Square district, though it has expanded to a multi-location empire. In addition to trying this and Sally’s Apizza, I also recommend BAR, a brew pub and pizzeria on Crown Street in downtown New Haven, and Modern Apizza. To re-create apizza at home, I like using Red Fife flour because at 10.5% protein, it has just enough strength to give this pizza what it needs to hold its shape and because it continues to “lift” while cooking, which is ideal for cooking heavier toppings. Plus it has a great wheat flavor. Prepare this dough 72 hours before baking.
375 grams cold water
500 grams hard winter wheat flour (I like Red Fife), plus more for dusting
10 grams extra-virgin olive oil
5 grams fresh compact yeast
12 grams sea salt
Neutral oil (see this page), for greasing and brushing
Desired toppings (beginning on this page)
Pour the water into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, and then add the flour. Mix on low speed for 8 minutes, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the olive oil and the yeast, and mix on medium speed for 6 minutes, adding the salt a little at a time. Mix on high speed for 2 minutes. Test for strength with the “windowpane” test (see note). Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and transfer the dough to the refrigerator to cold-ferment for 72 hours. After 24 hours have passed, remove the dough from the refrigerator and unwrap. With one wet hand, lightly grasp one edge of the dough. Give the bowl a one-eighth turn and repeat for a full turn. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and return to the refrigerator for the remaining time. The fermented dough will show signs of active fermentation such as bubbles on its surface and an airy structure. If not, discard the dough and begin again.
With a bench scraper, loosen the dough from the sides of the bowl and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface. Cut the dough in half with the bench scraper or a sharp knife. Place the palm of your hand on top of one piece of dough, resting your thumb and pinkie against the sides and your other fingertips on the counter. Gently move the dough in circles to form a sphere, taking care to prevent any tears. Repeat this process with the remaining dough. Place the dough balls on a greased baking sheet. Brush the dough lightly with neutral oil and cover the whole baking sheet with plastic wrap. Set it aside to reach room temperature and to rest for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 500ºF and set a baking stone or inverted baking sheet on the second-highest rack in the oven to preheat as well.
Place one dough ball on a well-floured surface, then sprinkle more flour on top. Start working the dough into a small disk by pushing your fingertips flat into the dough, leaving the edge untouched and the center portion just slightly higher. Continue until you have a round disk about 6 inches in diameter. Flip the disk over and move it to a portion of the work surface that is just lightly floured.
Place both hands on top, palms down, side by side. Use one hand to gently pull the dough away from the center, working slowly and carefully to prevent tearing. Add a light dusting of flour to the work surface if the dough begins to stick. Give the dough a one-eighth turn and repeat, repositioning your hands. Continue until the disk is about 18 inches in diameter. Finally, push your fingertips hard into the dough all over. This will keep the dough from inflating irregularly as it bakes.
Transfer the shaped dough to a pizza peel or a parchment-lined inverted baking sheet. Add your choice of toppings and transfer the pizza to the preheated baking stone. Bake until the edges are crisp and browned, about 10 minutes (or for the clam topping, follow the recipe on this page). Slice and serve immediately.
Repeat with the remaining dough, allowing the oven to return to 500ºF before baking the pizza.
The Windowpane Test
To test a dough’s strength, cut off a little piece, roll the dough into a ball with floured hands, and then gently stretch it (without tearing!) into a square “windowpane” shape. This test was invented by an anonymous genius to let you know whether the dough has developed properly. If you can see through the stretched dough without breaking it, the dough is ready to use.
DETROIT-STYLE PIZZA
MAKES TWO 18 × 13-INCH PIZZAS
Detroit-style pizza was born in the 1940s when Anna Passalacqua, owner of the Cloverleaf bar, baked sfincione, a subtly sweet Sicilian flatbread, in a pan intended for car parts—the Motor City’s automotive spirit finding a way even into its food. Topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, and pepperoni, the deep-dish pie has recently migrated from its city of origin to places like Descendant in Toronto and Emmy Squared in Brooklyn. This twist on the original uses a modified focaccia base; the Kansas Turkey wheat gives the dough strength, while the low-gluten rye imparts tenderness and lends a sweetness that reflects the flavor of the original sfincione.
960 grams hard red winter wheat flour (I like Kansas Turkey)
400 grams rye flour
1,140 grams tepid water
44 grams sea salt
5 grams active dry yeast
Neutral oil (see this page), for brushing
Extra-virgin olive oil, for greasing and brushing
Desired toppings (beginning on this page)
In a large bowl, whisk together the hard red winter wheat and rye flours.
Pour the water into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and then add the flour mixture. Mix on low speed for 4 minutes, until the dough takes on the consistency of cheese curds. Stop to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the salt and the yeast, and mix on medium-high speed for 2 minutes. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set it aside at room temperature until the dough has doubled in size, about 2 hours.
Uncover the bowl. With a bench scraper, loosen the dough from the sides of the bowl and turn it out onto a surface brushed sparingly with neutral oil.
With your fingertips, press the dough all over, with enough pressure to deflate but not tear it. Work the dough gently into a roughly rectangular shape. Cut the dough in half with the bench scraper or a sharp knife.
Transfer each piece of dough to its own baking sheet greased generously with olive oil. Working from the center to the edges, gently stretch the dough to match the size of the sheets. Liberally brush the surface of each dough with olive oil and use the tips of your fingers to spread it out. Set the dough aside, uncovered, at room temperature for 90 minutes. The dough should double in size. If it does not, allow it to sit at room temperature for 30 minutes more.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 500ºF and set a baking stone or inverted baking sheet on the second-highest rack in the oven to preheat as well.
Add your choice of toppings.Transfer the baking sheets to the oven and bake for 20 to 25 minutes. Reduce the heat to 300ºF and bake for 15 minutes more, until the crust is golden. Slice into squares on the sheets and serve immediately.
PROVIDENCE-STYLE PIZZA
MAKES FOUR 12- TO 15-INCH PIZZAS
This recipe is an homage to the pizzeria Al Forno in Providence, Rhode Island, where Johanne Killeen and George Germon began grilling pizza rather than baking it over three decades ago. While New Haven and New York styles are widely touted, Providence flies under the radar and Killeen and Germon never got the nationwide recognition they deserved for their innovative cooking technique. What’s really fun about grilling pizza is that it lets you cook the dough at a temperature that far exceeds the heat of a home oven. Here, with just your run-of-the-mill backyard grill, you get intense heat, which “lifts” the dough as it cooks, giving it a lighter interior structure.
Similar to the classic dough for Roman-style pizza, Al Forno’s dough is fermented for a very short time. The pizza base is thin, crispy, and chewy, and barely has a crust. In order to accommodate freshly milled flour, this modified Al Forno dough ferments for 36 hours. The soft spring wheat flour gives it a delicate structure and pleasant chewiness, which will have you looking for tickets to Providence after one bite.
1 gram active dry yeast
280 grams cold water
500 grams soft spring wheat flour (I like Sonora), plus more for dusting
12 grams sea salt
12 grams extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing and brushing
Neutral oil (see this page), for greasing and brushing
Desired toppings (beginning on this page)
In a small bowl, sprinkle the yeast over the cold water. Set the bowl aside for a few minutes until the yeast has dissolved.
Pour the yeast mixture into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, and then add the flour. Mix on low speed until the dough comes together, about 3 minutes, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Set the dough aside for 5 minutes to hydrate. Then add the salt and mix on medium speed for 4 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and has developed good elasticity. With the mixer running on medium speed, slowly add the olive oil and mix until incorporated.
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow the dough to rest for about 30 minutes at room temperature.
With a bench scraper, loosen the dough from the sides of the bowl and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. With the bench scraper or a sharp knife, cut it into 4 equal pieces.
Working with one piece of dough at a time, take four edges and pull and fold them into the center. Do not flatten. The dough will tighten up and take on a round shape. Flip the dough seam-side down on the work surface. Place the palm of your hand on top of the ball, resting your thumb and pinkie against the sides and your other fingertips on the counter. Gently move the ball to form a sphere, taking care to prevent any tears. Repeat this process with the remaining dough.
Place the shaped dough balls on a greased baking sheet. Brush them lightly with neutral oil and cover the whole baking sheet with plastic wrap. Transfer it to the refrigerator and allow the dough to cold-ferment for at least 36 hours. The fermented dough will show signs of active fermentation such as bubbles on its surface and an airy structure. If not, discard the dough and begin again.
Three hours before baking, remove the dough from the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature, still covered. The dough will rise slightly as it warms.
Twenty minutes before the dough is ready, fire up your grill to its highest temperature.
Place one dough ball on a well-floured surface, then sprinkle more flour on top. Start working the dough into a small disk by pushing your fingertips near the center of the dough and radiating outward toward the edges, leaving the center just slightly higher. Continue until you have a round disk about 6 inches in diameter and ¼ inch thick. Flip the disk over and move it to a portion of the work surface that is just lightly floured. With a rolling pin, roll from the center away from you to 12 o’clock. Give the disk a one-eighth turn and repeat until you have rotated the disk a complete turn. The dough will be 12 to 15 inches in diameter.
Transfer the shaped dough to a pizza peel or a parchment-lined inverted baking sheet and slide it onto the grill grate. Cook over medium heat, resisting the temptation to move or check the dough; it will release from the grate when it is ready. Grill for 2 to 3 minutes, flip the dough, and add your choice of toppings. Close the lid and grill for 3 minutes, or until the dough is cooked through, the bottom has grill marks, and the dough releases itself from the grill. Slice and serve immediately.
Repeat with the remaining dough.
FOCACCIA
MAKES ONE 18 × 13-INCH FOCACCIA
Focaccia is one of those Italian words that means something different depending on where you use it—literally. In Liguria, it’s an oil-rich, dry-crumbed, dimpled flatbread, while in the extreme southern region of Puglia, it’s more like a thick, airy, spongy bread. This version, made with biga, a classic Italian pre-ferment, is inspired by the flatbreads of Bari and central Puglia. Sticking to the Pugliese tradition of blending durum with other flours to compensate for durum’s low starch quality, this recipe employs the relatively neutral-flavored Redeemer wheat for its strength, letting the Iraq durum’s intense flavor come through while contributing to the dough’s structure. The result is thick and rich and meant to be enjoyed with complete abandon. Pair it with a generous stack of paper napkins.
340 grams hard red wheat flour (I like Redeemer)
340 grams durum wheat flour (I like Iraq)
570 grams tepid water
Focaccia Biga (recipe follows)
3 grams active dry yeast
22 grams sea salt
Neutral oil (see this page), for brushing
Extra-virgin olive oil, for greasing and brushing
Flaky sea salt (I like Maldon)
In a large bowl, whisk together the hard red wheat and durum flours. Pour the water into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and then add the flour mixture and the biga. Mix on medium speed for 4 minutes, until the dough takes on the consistency of cheese curds. Stop occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Replace the paddle with the dough hook. Add the yeast, and mix on medium-high speed for 2 minutes while slowly adding the salt. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set it aside at room temperature until the dough has doubled in size, about 2 hours.
Uncover the bowl. With a bench scraper, loosen the dough from the sides of the bowl and turn it out onto a surface brushed sparingly with neutral oil.
With your fingertips, press the dough all over, with enough pressure to deflate but not tear it. Work the dough gently into a roughly rectangular shape.
Transfer the dough to a baking sheet greased generously with olive oil. Working from the center to the edges, gently stretch the dough to match the size of the sheet. Liberally brush the surface of the dough with olive oil and use the tips of your fingers to spread it out. Set the dough aside, uncovered, at room temperature, until it has fermented and risen by about 40%, 90 minutes or more.
Preheat the oven to 500ºF and set a baking stone or inverted baking sheet on the second-highest rack in the oven to preheat as well.
Sprinkle the flaky sea salt to taste over the dough. Place the baking sheet with the dough on the preheated baking stone or baking sheet, and bake until it is a light golden brown, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350ºF and bake until the crust is golden all over and springs back when pressed, about 20 minutes. Brush it with additional olive oil and serve warm, in slices or slivers.
FOCACCIA BIGA
385 grams cool water
550 grams Redeemer wheat flour
3 grams active dry yeast
Neutral oil (see this page), for greasing
Pour the water into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook and add the flour, then the yeast. Mix on medium speed for 4 minutes, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Continue on high speed for 2 minutes. The dough should be fairly dry.
Transfer the biga to a lightly oiled large bowl, cover it with plastic wrap, and set it aside at room temperature to ferment for 3 hours.
Check for signs of fermentation, such as bubbles on the surface and around the edges of the mixture. Refrigerate the biga, covered, overnight. It will keep for up to 2 days in a sealed container in the refrigerator.
BIANCO-STYLE PIZZA
MAKES FOUR 12-INCH PIZZAS
This pizza was inspired by Chris Bianco, living pizza Hall of Famer and owner of Pizzeria Bianco, Pane Bianco, and Tratto in Phoenix. Years ago, when I was visiting the Bread Lab at Washington State University with Marc Vetri, I had one of the best days of my life. Dough royalty Chad Robertson of Tartine and Chris Bianco were both there, too. All my baking heroes in one place—no big deal. We started playing around with different flours, and the Lab’s resident baker and flour genius Jonathan Bethany-McDowell asked Chris to give him a crash course in pizza making. Chris was tight on time, but in accordance with his intensely generous spirit, he obliged and asked Jonathan if he had any really ripe levain to speed up the fermentation process. Jonathan dug some up and Chris made a dough with 30% levain by weight—a huge proportion compared with the average 14%. It fermented fully in just 2 hours, a clever solution to making a flavorful pizza on a tight schedule. Thanks to Chris’s creativity and expert handling, it was one of the best pizzas I have ever tasted. Chris used a ton of salt to tame the levain in this high-hydration dough. Normally I shoot for 2% salt in my pizza doughs, but I bump it up to 3.2% here. The choice of Redeemer wheat, which has a neutral to medium flavor, really lets the levain take over the pizza’s flavor profile; the levain contributes other characteristics, too, like a shinier dough than usual.
450 grams tepid water
500 grams hard winter wheat flour (I like Redeemer), plus more for dusting
150 grams Levain (this page)
16 grams sea salt
Desired toppings (beginning on this page)
Combine the water, flour, levain, and salt in a large bowl, and using your hands, mix just until the dough comes together. Set aside to rest, covered with plastic wrap, to hydrate for 5 minutes. Uncover the bowl. With one wet hand, lightly grasp one edge of the dough. Pull this flap of dough upward and outward, then attach it to the top of the dough. Give the bowl a one-eighth turn and repeat this process for 5 minutes. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set it aside to rest for 15 minutes. Uncover the bowl and repeat the pulling, lifting, and turning for another 2 minutes. Repeat this process every 15 minutes for 1 hour, a total of 4 times.
With a bench scraper, loosen the dough from the sides of the bowl, and turn it out onto a well-floured surface. With the bench scraper or a sharp knife, cut the dough in quarters. Working with one piece of dough, fold the dough in half. Gripping the far end, pull the dough toward you. Turn it 90 degrees, then drag it toward you again. Repeat the drag-and-pull procedure about 4 times, until the dough forms a nice tight ball. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough. Set the dough balls aside, uncovered, to rest until the dough no longer springs back when pressed, 15 to 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 500ºF and set a baking stone or inverted baking sheet on the second-highest rack in the oven to preheat as well.
Place one dough ball on a well-floured surface, then sprinkle more flour on top. Start working the dough into a small disk by pushing your fingertips flat into the dough, leaving the edge untouched and the center portion just slightly higher. Continue until you have a round disk about 6 inches in diameter and about ¾ inch thick. Flip the disk over and move it to a portion of the work surface that is just lightly floured.
Place both hands on top, palms down, side by side. Use one hand to gently pull the dough away from the center, working slowly and carefully to prevent tearing. Add a light dusting of flour to the work surface if the dough begins to stick. Give the dough a one-eighth turn and repeat, repositioning your hands. Continue until the disk is about 12 inches in diameter with a thick crust around the edge. Finally, push your fingertips hard into the dough all over except the crust. This will keep the dough from inflating irregularly as it bakes, while contributing to the thick rim.
Transfer the shaped dough to a pizza peel or a parchment-lined inverted baking sheet. Add your choice of toppings and transfer the pizza to the preheated baking stone. Bake until the crust is slightly charred around the edges and the toppings are cooked, 6 to 8 minutes. Slice and serve immediately.
Repeat with the remaining dough, allowing the oven to return to 500ºF before baking the pizza.
PIZZA TOPPINGS
BROCCOLI RABE AND PECORINO TOSCANO
Best for one 18 × 13-inch Pizza al Taglio (this page).
60 grams (about 2 ounces) broccoli rabe, fibrous stalks discarded
115 grams (about 4 ounces) Pecorino Toscano, shaved
Red pepper flakes
Sea salt
Extra-virgin olive oil
Distribute the whole broccoli rabe leaves evenly over the dough, nearly to the edge, followed by the Pecorino. Season with red pepper flakes and salt to taste. Drizzle generously with olive oil. Bake the pizza as described in the recipe.
ROBIOLA, MORTADELLA, AND ARUGULA
Best for one 18 × 13-inch Pizza al Taglio (this page).
450 grams (16 ounces) Robiola cheese
200 grams (7 ounces) mortadella, thinly sliced
40 grams (2½ ounces) arugula
Extra-virgin olive oil
Spread the Robiola over the warm crust of a blind-baked (see this page) Pizza al Taglio. Distribute the slices of mortadella evenly. Top with the arugula, and drizzle generously with olive oil. Slice and serve immediately.
HERBS AND OIL
Best for one 18 × 13-inch Pizza al Taglio (this page).
40 grams (about 1½ ounces) flat-leaf Italian parsley, leaves only
20 grams (about ¾ ounce) finely chopped fresh sage
20 grams (about ¾ ounce) finely chopped fresh rosemary
Leaves from 12 sprigs fresh thyme
100 grams (about ½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
In a medium bowl, combine the parsley, sage, rosemary, thyme, and olive oil and stir until incorporated. Distribute the mixture evenly over the dough. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Bake the pizza as described in the recipe.
TOMATO AND STRACCIATELLA
Best for one 10-inch Pizza Napoletana (this page).
115 grams (½ cup) whole peeled Piennolo or Corbara tomatoes, crushed by hand
150 grams (about 5 ounces) stracciatella di burrata cheese
Rock salt
Generous pinch of chopped fresh oregano
14 grams (about 1 tablespoon) extra-virgin olive oil
Distribute the tomatoes over the pizza dough, leaving a ½-inch border. Then distribute the stracciatella evenly over the tomatoes. Season with salt to taste. Bake the pizza as described in the recipe.
After baking, garnish with the oregano and drizzle with the olive oil.
MUSHROOMS
Best for one 10-inch Pizza Napoletana (this page).
115 grams (about ½ cup) tomato sauce
100 grams (about 4 ounces) mushrooms (I like cremini), thinly sliced
70 grams (2½ ounces) mozzarella, torn or cut into ½-inch pieces
Spoon the tomato sauce over the pizza dough, leaving a ½-inch border, then distribute the mushrooms and mozzarella evenly. Bake the pizza as described in the recipe.
SAUSAGE AND BROCCOLINI
Best for one 10-inch Pizza Napoletana (this page).
Sea salt
100 grams (4 ounces) broccolini
150 grams (5 ounces) spicy sausage, casings removed, chopped
70 grams (2½ ounces) mozzarella, torn or cut into ½-inch pieces
Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Salt the water. When the salt has dissolved, add the broccolini. Boil until tender and cooked through, about 4 minutes. Drain and set aside to cool. When the broccolini is cool enough to handle, squeeze out any excess water and coarsely chop it.
Distribute the sausage, broccolini, and mozzarella over the pizza dough, leaving a ½-inch border. Bake the pizza as described in the recipe.
FOUR CHEESES
Best for one 18-inch Connecticut-Style Apizza (this page).
225 grams (8 ounces) mozzarella, torn or cut into ½-inch pieces
100 grams (3½ ounces) Gorgonzola, crumbled
100 grams (3½ ounces) grated Pecorino Romano
100 grams (3½ ounces) fontina, shaved
Distribute the mozzarella, Gorgonzola, Pecorino, and fontina over the pizza dough. Bake the pizza as described in the recipe.
CLAMS
Best for one 18-inch Connecticut-Style Apizza (this page).
70 grams (¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon) extra-virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves
1,125 grams (about 2½ pounds) fresh clams (I like cherrystones or cockles)
350 grams (1½ cups) dry white wine
1 bunch parsley, leaves only, coarsely chopped
Red pepper flakes
1 lemon, cut into wedges
Heat the ¼ cup olive oil in a large skillet over low heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the garlic. Cook the garlic just until it starts to take on color, about 6 minutes, and then discard the cloves.
Add the clams and the white wine to the oil in the skillet. Simmer until the clams just open, about 5 minutes. Remove the clams and set aside on a tray. Meanwhile, raise the heat to high and reduce the liquid in the pan to ½ cup. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Distribute the clams in their shells over the pizza dough. Bake the pizza as described in the recipe for 6 minutes. Then remove the pizza from the oven and distribute the reduced liquid and parsley on top. Return the pizza to the oven to finish cooking, about 6 minutes. Serve immediately, seasoned with red pepper flakes and with the remaining olive oil drizzled on top and the lemon wedges alongside.
GRICIA
Best for one 18-inch Connecticut-Style Apizza (this page).
14 grams (1 tablespoon) extra-virgin olive oil
40 grams (1½ ounces) pancetta, cut into ⅛-inch-thick tiles
70 grams (2½ ounces) mozzarella, torn or cut into ½-inch pieces
Freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in a small pan over medium heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the pancetta. Cook, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Transfer the pancetta to paper towels to drain for a few minutes.
Distribute the pancetta, mozzarella, and pepper evenly over the pizza dough. Bake the pizza as described in the recipe and serve immediately.
PISTACHIO PESTO AND FONTINA
Best for one 12- to 15-inch Pizza Romana (this page).
125 grams (1 cup) unsalted pistachios, hulled
215 grams (1 cup) grapeseed oil
Sea salt
100 grams (3½ ounces) fontina, shaved
Healthy pinch of fresh thyme leaves
5 grams (1 teaspoon) red wine vinegar
Combine the pistachios, the oil, and salt to taste in the bowl of a food processor and blend until the mixture has the consistency of chunky peanut butter.
Distribute the pesto over the pizza dough, spreading it to the edge of the crust. Bake the pizza as described in the recipe.
After baking, lay the fontina over the pesto. Garnish with the thyme, drizzle with the vinegar, and serve immediately.
CORN WITH SCALLIONS
Best for one 12- to 15-inch Providence-Style Pizza (this page).
30 grams (2 tablespoons) extra-virgin olive oil
2 grams (1 teaspoon) red pepper flakes
1 whole scallion, thinly sliced
1 ear of corn, kernels sliced off and reserved
Sea salt
45 grams (1½ ounces) ricotta salata, shaved
3 sprigs fresh parsley, leaves only
¼ lime
Heat the olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the red pepper flakes. Cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds, then add the scallion and the corn kernels. Season with salt and cook, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes.
Spoon the corn mixture over the partially grilled dough almost to the edge. Continue with the pizza recipe. Garnish the grilled pizza with the ricotta salata and parsley, and squeeze the lime all over.
PEPPERONI
Best for one 18 × 13-inch Detroit-Style Pizza (this page).
400 grams (2 cups) whole canned tomatoes, crushed by hand
8 grams (2 teaspoons) turbinado sugar, such as Sugar in the Raw
115 grams (4 ounces) thinly sliced pepperoni
170 grams (6 ounces) Wisconsin brick cheese or low-moisture mozzarella, shredded
In a medium bowl, combine the tomatoes and sugar and mix well. With a ladle or your hands, spread the tomato mixture over the stretched pizza dough in an even layer, nearly to the edge of the dough. Distribute the pepperoni slices over the tomato sauce, and then sprinkle the cheese over the pepperoni. Continue with the pizza recipe.
TOMATO AND OLIVE
Best for one 18 × 13-inch Detroit-Style Pizza (this page).
1½ grams (1½ teaspoons) dried oregano
250 grams (1¾ cups) ripe cherry tomatoes, halved
¼ cup pitted black olives
Sprinkle the oregano onto the stretched pizza dough. Gently press in the cherry tomatoes, cut-side down, and the olives, distributing them evenly. Continue with the pizza recipe.
MEAT LOVERS
Best for one 18 × 13-inch Detroit-Style Pizza (this page).
230 grams (1 cup) tomato sauce
150 grams (5 ounces) ground beef
150 grams (5 ounces) bacon, cut into ¼-inch-thick tiles
150 grams (5 ounces) spicy sausage, casings removed, chopped
¼ white onion, diced
½ green bell pepper, diced
225 grams (8 ounces) mozzarella, torn or cut into ½-inch pieces
Spoon the tomato sauce over the stretched pizza dough, and then evenly distribute the ground beef, bacon, sausage, onion, bell pepper, and mozzarella. Continue with the pizza recipe.
BUTTER, HONEY, AND LAVENDER
Best for one 12-inch Bianco-Style Pizza (this page).
100 grams (3½ ounces) unsalted butter
15 grams (about 2 tablespoons) honey
2 grams (1 tablespoon) dried culinary lavender
Spread the butter all over the blind-baked pizza (see this page). Drizzle with the honey. Distribute the lavender evenly, and serve.
GARLIC AND HERB
Best for one 12-inch Bianco-Style Pizza (this page).
Cloves from 1 head of garlic, sliced super-thin
15 grams (1 tablespoon) extra-virgin olive oil
3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 sprig fresh rosemary, leaves only, finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives
Sea salt
Distribute the garlic slices and the olive oil over the pizza dough to the edge of the raised crust. Bake as described in the pizza recipe for 6 minutes. Then remove the pizza from the oven and distribute the thyme, rosemary, and chives over the garlic, and cook for another 6 minutes. Season with salt to taste.