MAKES 12 TO 14 CUPCAKES
It takes a real stroke of genius to improve on something that’s already so gosh-darn perfect, but such is the case with these gooey-centered cupcake brownies: Food52 contributor Phyllis Grant adapted them from the brilliant Alice Medrich’s Cocoa Brownies with Brown Butter and Walnuts, published in Sinfully Easy Delicious Desserts. These have all of the benefits of molten lava cakes (chocolate goo! theatrical awe!) with none of the stress—their liquid centers comes from stuffing chocolate chips into the middle of each cupcake before baking. Once baked, they freeze wonderfully: to reheat, just put the frozen cupcakes in a 325°F (165°C) oven for 15 minutes to awaken the gooey center. For an extra flourish, serve topped with ice cream.
1¼ cups (285g) unsalted butter
2¼ cups (450g) granulated sugar
1½ cups (130g) unsweetened cocoa powder (natural or Dutch-processed)
1 tablespoon water
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
¾ teaspoon salt
4 cold eggs
⅔ cup (85g) all-purpose flour
1 ¾ cups (175g) walnuts, finely chopped
1 cup (170g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate chips, or as desired
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting (optional)
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Generously butter and flour a nonstick muffin tin, or line the cups with large cupcake papers.
2. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat, swirling it until it starts to brown and smell nutty, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and immediately stir in the granulated sugar, cocoa, water, vanilla, and salt. Let cool for 5 minutes.
3. Add the eggs one at a time, whisking well after each addition. Add the flour and mix vigorously for about 1 minute. Stir in the walnuts.
4. Spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tin, distributing it evenly; it’s okay to fill the muffin cups almost to the top edge because these cupcakes barely rise. (You may have one or two extra cupcakes. Either bake them after the first batch has come out of the pan and the pan is again cool, or prepare a couple of cups of a new muffin tin, filling the empty spots with a couple of tablespoons of water each.) Press some of the chocolate chips into the center of each cupcake to create a chocolate center.
5. Bake for about 15 minutes, until the edges are set but the middle is still a bit gooey. If need be, cut into one cupcake with a paring knife to determine whether the batter is set.
6. Let cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then remove each carefully. Serve right away, dusted with confectioners’ sugar, if desired. Store leftovers in a resealable bag at room temperature for up to 3 days, or freeze for a few months.
Maple Persimmon Upside-Down Cake with Maple Cream
MAKES ONE 10-INCH (25CM) CAKE; SERVES 8 TO 10
This might be our favorite way to show off ripe, bright-orange persimmons (and to make the most of any that are not at their prime). The fruit forms a beautiful layer atop a maple-sweetened spice cake that’s perfect for winter weekend fare. Be sure to use Fuyu persimmons; Hachiyas are softer and more likely to break down under the weight of the cake. And don’t skip the slightly sweet maple cream topping—you’ll want to eat it on everything, or straight from a spoon.
Cake
8 tablespoons (110g) unsalted butter
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (265ml) maple syrup, preferably Grade B
1 egg, at room temperature
1 egg yolk, at room temperature
1½ cups (190g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
⅔ cup (160ml) buttermilk
½ cup (60g) toasted pecans, finely chopped
2 or 3 ripe Fuyu persimmons, sliced crosswise about ¼ inch (6mm) thick
Maple Cream
1 cup (240ml) heavy cream, chilled
2 tablespoons maple syrup, chilled
⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1. Put a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
2. To make the cake, put 2 tablespoons of the butter and 2 tablespoons of the maple syrup in a 10-inch (25cm) cast-iron skillet and cook over low heat, stirring a time or two, just until the butter melts.
3. Using an electric mixer or creaming vigorously with a wooden spoon, beat the remaining 6 tablespoons (85g) of butter and 1 cup (240ml) of maple syrup until thoroughly combined, about 2 minutes. Scrape down the bowl, add the egg and egg yolk, and beat for another minute.
4. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Add half of the mixture to the butter mixture and beat for 10 seconds. Add the buttermilk and beat for 10 seconds more. Add in the remaining flour mixture, beat for 10 seconds, scrape down the bowl, and then beat for 20 seconds longer. Stir in the pecans, scraping down the bowl in the process.
5. Tilt the skillet to evenly coat the bottom and sides of the pan with the butter and maple syrup mixture. Place one slice of persimmon in the center of the pan, then arrange the remaining slices in slightly overlapping concentric circles working out to the edges of the skillet and covering the bottom of the skillet completely.
6. Carefully pour the batter over the persimmons and smooth the surface with a rubber spatula.
7. Bake on the center rack for 20 minutes, then rotate the pan and bake for 25 to 30 minutes longer, until the cake is slightly browned and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean.
8. Let cool until the pan can be handled safely without oven mitts, anywhere from 20 minutes to 1 hour or more. Run a thin knife or small offset spatula around the edge to gently loosen the cake. Invert a large serving plate on top of the pan. Bracing the plate against the pan with one hand, flip the cake over, out of the pan, and onto the plate. (Because the pan is so heavy, if someone can help with this, all the better.) Let the cake cool completely.
9. Meanwhile, make the maple cream. Put the cream, maple syrup, and cinnamon in a cold, clean bowl. Using an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment or whisking vigorously, whip until soft peaks form (see tip below). Refrigerate the maple cream until you serve the cake.
10. Put a big dollop of maple cream on each slice before serving.
How to Whip Cream
Before you begin, make sure your equipment and ingredients are cold. Chill the cream well before starting to whip and freeze the whisk and the metal bowl you’ll be using (we recommend a big balloon whisk and a large deep bowl) for at least 15 minutes. By hand, it will take 3 to 5 minutes of vigorous whisking to achieve soft peaks—when the cream is light and fluffy and just starts to hold peaks when you pull the whisk away. If using an electric mixer, mix on low speed until the cream thickens in order to prevent splattering. Then increase the speed to medium-high and keep whipping until soft peaks form. This will take less time than whipping by hand, so begin to check after 1 to 2 minutes. Continue to whip the cream to achieve stiff peaks, which stand up straight, at attention, when the whisk or beater is lifted. If the peak flops over at its top, it’s not quite at the stiff peak stage (that’s known as a medium peak). Keep in mind that cream will continue to stiffen as you fold it, spread it, or pipe it, so if you’re planning on using your cream for those purposes (rather than simply inhaling it), err on the side of less stiff.
Tender Yellow Cake with Bittersweet Chocolate Frosting
MAKES ONE DOUBLE-LAYER 8-INCH CAKE; SERVES 10 TO 12
If there’s one dessert that will bring to mind the joy of childhood birthday parties, it’s this one. With tender, buttery cake; milky chocolate frosting; and—for extra cheer—a sprinkle coat, this cake will remind you of turning eight. Bake it to celebrate your next accomplishment (or your next Wednesday—whichever comes first).
Yellow Cake
2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, softened
2 cups granulated sugar
1½ teaspoons vanilla
3 eggs, at room temperature
1 egg yolk, at room temperature
3 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1½ cups milk, at room temperature
Chocolate Frosting
2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, softened
3 cups powdered sugar
1½ cups chopped bittersweet chocolate, melted and cooled slightly (see tip)
⅔ cup sour cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease and flour two 8-inch cake pans.
2. To make the cake, using a handheld electric mixer or creaming vigorously with a wooden spoon, beat the butter and sugar until light and fluffy, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the vanilla and mix to combine.
3. Add the eggs and yolk one at a time and mix to incorporate, scraping well after each addition. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt to combine.
4. Add one-third of the flour mixture and mix on low speed to incorporate. Add half of the milk and mix to incorporate. Repeat with another one-third of the flour, the remainder of the milk, and finish with the flour. Mix just to combine (don’t overmix).
5. Divide the batter evenly between the two prepared cake pans. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes.
6. Cool the cakes in the pans for 15 to 20 minutes, then unmold and cool completely on wire racks.
7. While the cake cools, make the frosting. Using a handheld electric mixer or creaming vigorously with a wooden spoon, beat the butter and powdered sugar until light and fluffy, 4 to 5 minutes.
8. Add the cooled melted chocolate and mix to combine. Add the sour cream, vanilla, and salt and mix until the mixture is smooth, light, and glossy.
9. Put one layer of the cake on a serving plate and spread about one-third of the frosting evenly over the top. Set the other layer on top, bottom (flat) side up, and spread the remaining frosting over the top and sides of the cake. (For details on assembling and frosting a cake.)
10. Since the icing will firm up, you can store this cake by wrapping it in plastic wrap (or packing it in a plastic container) and keeping it in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
How to Melt Chocolate
If you’re melting a chunk of chocolate, the first step is to chop or break it into pieces for more even melting. To melt chocolate in the microwave, put it in a microwave-safe bowl, cover the bowl with parchment paper, and microwave in 20-second intervals, checking and stirring after each interval, just until the chocolate melts. To melt chocolate on the stove top, use a double boiler, or create a makeshift one using a small saucepan and a heatproof bowl that will span the saucepan. Put a small amount of water in the saucepan (not so much that it touches the bottom of the bowl), bring it to a gentle simmer, put the chocolate in the bowl, and set it atop the saucepan. Stir with a dry spoon until the chocolate is melted and smooth.
There are two ways to separate an egg without any equipment. The first, more hands-on approach is to crack the egg and run it through your fingers, catching the yoke as the whites slip through. (Make sure you wash your hands thoroughly before using this method.) The second, neater way is to use the halves of the eggshell as cups. Pass the yolk back and forth between the shells, letting the whites drop away until only the intact yolk remains in the eggshell.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23CM) ROUND CAKE; SERVES 8 TO 10
This cake has never met an occasion it couldn’t win over. Dense and sweet, fruit-studded and topped with a nutty streusel, this almond crumb cake from Food52 contributor and all-star baker Yossy Arefi has found its place at plenty of breakfasts, has pulled up a chair at many teatimes, and has fit in nicely at dessert, warmed and topped with a buxom scoop of ice cream.
Streusel
¼ cup (25g) sliced almonds
¼ cup (50g) light brown sugar
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (80g) all-purpose flour
⅛ teaspoon baking soda
Pinch of salt
6 tablespoons (85g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
Filling
1½ cups (235g) pitted cherries (sour or sweet, fresh or frozen)
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon granulated sugar, if needed
Cake
1 cup (125g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon baking powder
6 tablespoons (85g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ cup (100g) granulated sugar
2 eggs
⅔ cup (160ml) sour cream
½ teaspoon almond extract
½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1. Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Butter and flour a 9-inch (23cm) round cake pan, preferably a springform pan.
2. To make the streusel, gently stir together the almonds, brown sugar, flour, baking soda, and salt in a medium bowl. Add the butter and mix until evenly combined.
3. To make the filling, toss the cherries with the flour and granulated sugar until evenly coated; you can forgo the sugar if a sample cherry tastes sweet enough.
4. To make the cake, in a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, salt, and baking powder.
5. Using an electric mixer or creaming vigorously with a wooden spoon, beat the butter and granulated sugar together in a large bowl until very light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing for 30 seconds after each addition and scraping down the sides of the bowl occasionally to ensure even mixing.
6. Stir in the sour cream, almond extract, and lemon zest. Gently fold in the flour mixture, just until combined.
7. To assemble and bake the cake, pour half of the batter into the prepared pan, then smooth the top with a spatula. Scatter the filling, including any flour and sugar at the bottom of the bowl, over the batter, then gently distribute the remaining batter over the cherries, spreading it evenly; it’s okay if the cherries aren’t completely covered. Scatter the streusel over the top.
8. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until the cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Let the cake cool completely in the pan before unmolding and serving.
Black Sesame Cupcakes with Matcha Buttercream
MAKES 12 CUPCAKES
We were starting to worry that cupcakes were becoming passé, but Molly Yeh has given them new life with the help of black sesame seeds, our new favorite flavor. By distilling the nutty toastiness of black sesame seeds into cupcake form, she’s created a treat that, in her words, is “delightfully unique without being too weird or inaccessible.” Since it can be hard to tell when black sesame seeds are toasted, buy them pretoasted from an Asian market or gourmet grocer.
Cupcakes
6 tablespoons (55g) black sesame seeds, preferably pretoasted
1¼ cups (155g) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup (110g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¼ cup (60g) tahini
¾ cup (150g) granulated sugar
2 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
⅔ cup (160ml) milk
Buttercream
1 cup (225g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1½ cups (185g) confectioners’ sugar, plus more if desired
1 teaspoon matcha green tea powder, plus more if desired
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line 12 standard muffin cups with paper liners. If your black sesame seeds are not already toasted, toast them in a small pan on the stove top over low heat. When they begin to smell nutty, remove the pan from the heat and let the seeds cool slightly.
2. Grind the sesame seeds into a fine powder using either a coffee or spice grinder or a mortar and pestle.
3. To make the cupcakes, whisk together the ground sesame seeds, flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl.
4. Using an electric mixer or creaming vigorously with a wooden spoon, beat the butter, tahini, and granulated sugar until pale and creamy. Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Stir in the vanilla. Add the flour mixture and beat on low speed to combine, then beat in the milk. Scoop the batter into the muffin cups, distributing it evenly.
5. Bake for about 18 minutes, until the cupcakes have slightly risen, the tops are a bit golden, and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Let the cupcakes cool for a few minutes in the pan, then transfer them out of the pan and onto a wire rack to cool completely.
6. Meanwhile, make the buttercream. Using an electric mixer or creaming vigorously with a wooden spoon, beat together the butter, confectioners’ sugar, matcha powder, and vanilla. Taste and add more sugar or matcha powder if desired.
7. Once the cupcakes are cool, use an offset spatula to spread the buttercream over the tops.
Olive Oil Ricotta Cake with Plums
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23CM) ROUND CAKE; SERVES 8 TO 10
If this is the only thing you do with plums all year, you won’t be sorry. It’s disproportionately good compared to the amount of effort required, with olive oil and ricotta keeping the cake nicely moist. Use perfectly ripe plums that you would eat raw. For a more luxurious presentation, top each serving with a dollop of whipped cream or whipped mascarpone.
1 cup (240ml) full-fat ricotta
⅓ cup (80ml) olive oil
1 cup (200g) granulated sugar
1 tablespoon finely grated lemon zest
2 eggs
1½ cups (190g) all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon baking soda
8 to 10 small plums, halved
1 tablespoon honey or granulated sugar, if needed
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter and flour a 9-inch (23cm) round springform pan.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together the ricotta, olive oil, granulated sugar, and lemon zest. Add the eggs one at a time, whisking well after each addition.
3. Sift the flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda directly over the ricotta mixture. If you don’t have a sifter, use a dry whisk to stir together the flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda in a separate bowl and then add it to the ricotta mixture. Stir gently just until combined (see tip below). Pour the batter into the prepared pan, spreading it evenly.
4. If the plums are very tart, toss them with the honey until evenly coated. Arrange them on top of the cake, cut side down.
5. Bake for 55 to 65 minutes, until the top is golden brown, the edges pull away from the pan, and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.
6. Let cool in the pan for 10 to 15 minutes, then remove the cake from the pan and place it on a wire rack to cool a bit longer. Dust with confectioners’ sugar and serve slightly warm or at room temperature.
When a recipe warns against overmixing, stop as soon as the dry ingredients are no longer visible. Overmixing can deflate batter and cause excessive gluten development, resulting in tough or dense baked goods. Avoid this by folding rather than stirring. Use a spatula to slice down the middle of the batter and scoop up from one side of the bowl. Give the bowl a quarter turn and repeat until the dry ingredients are just incorporated.
Skillet Spice Cake with Gooey Caramel Bottom
MAKES ONE 10-INCH (25CM) ROUND CAKE; SERVES 8
This pudding-like cake is a close cousin to sticky toffee pudding but with a few modern details, like the addition of pine nuts and a tangy whipped topping. Serve this cake warm, right out of the cast-iron skillet you make it in (read: easy cleanup). As the cake cools, the gooey bottom layer will start to harden—just pop it back into the oven for a few minutes to loosen it up.
Caramel
¼ cup (50g) dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons molasses
Cake
¼ cup (35g) pine nuts
1⅓ cups (165g) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons ground ginger
½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
¾ cup (150g) dark brown sugar
6 tablespoons (85g) unsalted butter
⅔ cup (160ml) molasses
⅔ cup (160ml) whole milk
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Topping
1 cup (240ml) cold heavy cream
½ cup (120ml) cold sour cream
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
2. To make the caramel, put the brown sugar, butter, and molasses in a 10-inch (25cm) cast-iron skillet. Put the skillet in the oven for about 5 minutes, until the butter melts. Stir the mixture until well combined.
3. To make the cake, spread the pine nuts on a rimmed baking sheet and toast them in the oven until golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes, keeping a close eye on them to prevent burning.
4. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, baking soda, ginger, pepper, cinnamon, allspice, and cloves.
5. Combine the brown sugar, butter, and molasses in a small saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring frequently, until the butter melts. Stir in the milk and vanilla. Add to the flour mixture and stir just until combined. Carefully pour the batter over the caramel mixture in the skillet, gently spreading it in an even layer. Sprinkle the toasted pine nuts over the batter.
6. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the top is firm and a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out nearly clean. Let cool in the skillet for a few minutes.
7. To prepare the topping, put the cream and sour cream in a cold, clean bowl. Using an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment or whisking vigorously, whip until soft peaks form (see this page).
8. Cut the cake into wedges and serve warm, passing the whipped cream at the table.
Gluten-Free Lemon Blackberry Corn Cake
MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23CM) ROUND CAKE; SERVES 8 TO 10
Serve this cake unadorned for breakfast, or dress it up with whipped cream and more berries for a showier dessert. Feel free to use whatever seasonal fruit looks good, perhaps adjusting the other flavorings accordingly: peaches pair with vanilla and nutmeg; cranberries are complemented by an autumnal mix of allspice, ginger, cloves, and molasses.
3 eggs, separated
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup (200g) granulated sugar
1½ cups (190g) fine-ground cornmeal
¼ cup (30g) tapioca flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ cup (110g) unsalted butter
Zest of 1 large lemon, finely grated
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 cup (240ml) milk
½ to ¾ cup (70 to 105g) small fresh blackberries
2 tablespoons raw sugar
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter a 9-inch (23cm) round springform pan, line the bottom with parchment paper, and butter the parchment paper. (Wrap the bottom with aluminum foil if the pan leaks.)
2. Put the egg whites and ¼ teaspoon of the salt in a clean, dry bowl. Using an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment or whisking vigorously by hand, whip until soft peaks form. Gradually add ½ cup (100g) of the granulated sugar and continue whipping until stiff peaks form (see this page).
3. In a medium bowl, stir together the cornmeal, tapioca flour, baking powder, and remaining ¼ teaspoon of salt.
4. Using an electric mixer or creaming vigorously with a wooden spoon, beat the butter and the remaining ½ cup (100g) of granulated sugar until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolks and continue to beat until light and lemon colored, about 2 minutes. Stir in the lemon zest and juice. Add the cornmeal mixture and milk in several alternating additions, blending until thoroughly combined after each addition. Gently fold in the egg whites until completely incorporated, with as few white blobs as possible.
5. Pour half of the batter into the prepared pan, then scatter half of the blackberries evenly over the batter. Top with the remaining batter, then scatter the rest of the blackberries evenly over the top; they will sink into the batter. Sprinkle the raw sugar evenly over the top.
6. Bake for about 60 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Put the pan on a wire rack. Run a knife around the edge of the pan to loosen the cake completely, then remove the outer ring. If you want to transfer the cake to a serving platter, wait until it has cooled completely, then slide a long, thin spatula between the cake and the base to loosen it from the pan. Transfer using a large spatula.
Banana Cake with Penuche Frosting
MAKES ONE 8-INCH (20CM) LAYER CAKE; SERVES 10 TO 12
This simple-seeming cake, a family recipe from editor Lindsay-Jean Hard, is like your favorite banana bread, but lighter and fluffier, with an airy crumb. The real star here, however, is the frosting: its caramelly, brown sugar milkiness is a perfect complement to the banana.
This recipe is also versatile. You can include the nuts or not, and it’s fine to substitute all-purpose flour for the pastry flour. Even if you forget to separate the eggs, no worries; the cake will just have a slightly denser crumb.
Cake
½ cup (110g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1½ cups (300g) granulated sugar
2 eggs, separated
2 bananas, mashed
½ cup (120ml) buttermilk
1⅔ cups (210g) pastry flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon baking powder
½ cup (about 60g) nuts (optional), chopped
Frosting
½ cup (110g) unsalted butter
1 cup (200g) brown sugar
¼ cup (60ml) milk
1¾ to 2 cups (220 to 250g) confectioners’ sugar
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter and flour two 8-inch (20cm) round cake pans.
2. To make the cake, using an electric mixer or creaming vigorously with a wooden spoon, beat the butter and granulated sugar until pale and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the egg yolks one at a time, mixing until incorporated after each addition and occasionally scraping down the sides of the bowl. Stir in the bananas, then stir in the milk until well combined.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, salt, and baking powder. Add to the butter mixture, along with the nuts, and stir gently just until combined.
4. Put the egg whites in a clean, dry bowl. Using an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment or whisking vigorously by hand, whip until soft peaks form. Gently fold the egg whites into the batter. Divide the batter evenly between the prepared pans.
5. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out with only dry crumbs rather than wet batter.
6. When the cakes are completely cool and you’re ready to assemble it, make the frosting. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over low heat. Stir in the brown sugar and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Stir in the milk, increase the heat to medium-high, and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture comes to a boil. Remove from the heat and let cool until lukewarm. Gradually stir in 1¾ cups confectioners’ sugar, then mix vigorously until completely smooth (add the additional ¼ cup of confectioners’ sugar if the frosting is too loose). Use the frosting immediately, as it will begin to thicken and stiffen as it sits.
7. Put one layer of the cake on a serving plate and spread about one-third of the frosting evenly over the top. Set the other layer on top, bottom (flat) side up, and spread the remaining frosting over the top and sides of the cake. (For details on assembling and frosting a cake.)
8. Since the icing will firm up, you can store this cake by wrapping it in plastic wrap (or packing it in a plastic container) and keeping it in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
How to Assemble and Frost a Cake
Before you get started, make sure you’re working in a cool environment, as frosting can become temperamental when it’s too warm. You also want the cake layers to be completely cool. If you store them in the fridge overnight (which will make frosting them significantly easier), wrap them well in plastic wrap.
Another key to a beautiful cake is straight lines. You want the layers to have an even height all the way across; cooling the layers by placing the rounded (top) side down on wire racks can help with this. Use a serrated knife to gently cut off any uneven mounds of cake that formed on the top during baking. Rather than use a sawing motion, it’s better to keep the knife in place while rotating the cake on a plate or a cakestand, gently sliding the knife farther into the cake as it rotates. Brush off any excess crumbs with a pastry brush.
If you’re frosting the cake directly on the serving platter, put down a generous dab of frosting to prevent the cake from moving around while you frost it. Skip this step if you’re frosting on a turntable and you plan to transfer the cake to a platter later. Put the bottom layer on top of the frosting, then slip strips of parchment paper under the bottom of the cake; you’ll remove them later and—voilà!—the surface will be clean. Spread a generous amount of frosting evenly over the top of the first layer. Set the second layer on top with its smooth bottom side facing up. Press gently to ensure that the cake is straight and the top layer is secure.
Spread a thin layer of the frosting over the top and sides of the cake to form a crumb layer, a thin coat of frosting that will seal in any crumbs and make the finished product look cleaner. After applying the crumb layer, put the cake in the freezer for 15 minutes. Then apply the rest of the frosting, preferably with an offset spatula. Use the back of a spoon to make decorative swirls, or decorate with sprinkles to your liking.
MAKES ONE 9-INCH CAKE; SERVES 12
What to bake for dessert is the hardest, cruelest decision to make on Thanksgiving. Usually, we grit our teeth and make room for everything, but with this single dessert—and its shortbread bottom, pumpkin pie layer, and buttery pecan topping—you get your cake, tart, and crumble all in one marvelous creation.
Crust
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (110g) cake flour
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (125g) granulated sugar
1½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup (110g) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 egg
Topping
¼ cup (30g) all-purpose flour
¼ cup (50g) granulated sugar
2 tablespoons brown sugar
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
½ cup (60g) pecans, chopped
Filling
1 (15-ounce/425g) can pumpkin puree
2 tablespoons brown sugar
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
⅛ teaspoon ground ginger
⅛ teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 egg
⅓ cup (80ml) milk
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter a 9-inch (23cm) round pan with a removable bottom, then line the bottom with parchment paper.
2. To make the crust, stir together the cake flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. Add the butter and cut it in until it’s the size of peas. Add the egg and stir until the dough starts to come together.
3. Dump the mixture into the prepared pan, then press it evenly into the pan. Bake for about 20 minutes, until it puffs up, then settles down and browns a bit. Remove from the oven but leave the oven on.
4. Meanwhile, make the topping. In a large bowl, stir together the all-purpose flour, granulated sugar, brown sugar, and cinnamon. Cut in the butter and add the pecans, then stir until the mixture starts to come together in clumps.
5. To make the filling, put the pumpkin, brown sugar, salt, cinnamon, allspice, cloves, ginger, and nutmeg in a medium bowl and stir with a whisk or spatula. Mix in the egg. Add the milk and stir until smooth.
6. Pour the filling evenly over the cooled crust, then sprinkle the crumble evenly over the top.
7. Bake for about 40 minutes, until the filling is set and the topping is golden. Let cool completely before removing from the pan.
How to Make Cake Flour at Home
Cake flour has lower protein content (7 to 8.5%) than all-purpose (11%) and is used to make lighter, softer cakes with a fine crumb (think angel food cake). You can replicate cake flour using all-purpose flour and cornstarch. For every 1 cup (125g) of cake flour called for, measure out ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (110g) of all-purpose flour. Add 2 tablespoons of cornstarch and whisk to combine, then sift.
