Naturally Healthy Mexican Cooking: Authentic Recipes for Dieters, Diabetics & All Food Lovers

RICE

Besides different varieties, rice comes in two basic forms, brown and white. When processing brown rice, only the outer husk is removed. To make white rice, the outer husk is stripped off and then the bran and germ layers are also removed. This process eliminates vitamins and minerals such as B1, B3, iron, and magnesium. Some but not all of these may be “added back,” but there are questions regarding the effectiveness of the enrichment process. Additionally, it is believed that the oil in rice bran may help lower LDL, or bad cholesterol.

For these reasons, nutrition experts tell us that we should eat brown rather than white rice. There are two problems with this. First, brown rice usually turns out more like a gloppy, unappetizing mess than the light, steamed grains we want. Second, even if we do make it properly, for many used to white rice, brown rice simply does not taste right. The brown rice recipe I present here (page 64), adapted from one that appeared in the April/May 2005 issue of Fine Cooking magazine, definitely solves the first problem. While there may be no solution for the second one that suits everyone, what works well for me is to combine cooked brown and white rice on a half-and-half basis. I suggest you try that, varying the proportions to suit your taste.

Although in Mexico medium-grain rice is often used, I prefer long-grain, and my favorite is aromatic jasmine. Most Mexican rice is cooked pilaf-style, which means the rice is fried before being steamed. Mexican rice often needs to be soaked and rinsed to remove the starch before it is cooked. However, when prepared pilaf-style, rice from U.S. supermarkets usually does not require this step.

Most Mexican cooks add things like onion, garlic, and oregano to both rice and bean recipes. However, I have found that also blending some of those important flavors into the water or broth in which the rice and beans are cooked, and which they absorb in the process, produces a more savory result.

Please note that all the pilaf-style rice heats up well in a microwave, so it can be prepared even several days ahead of serving.

Arroz a la Mexicana

MEXICAN RICE

8 servings

This is one of the world’s greatest rice dishes—but only when it is prepared properly, which is seldom. What makes it so special is that, like all pilaf-style rice, it is first fried in oil, which keeps the grains from sticking together and gives the rice a toasty flavor and texture. It is then fried in a tomato sauce until the liquid has evaporated; this cooks the flavor into the rice without making it gloppy. The rice is finished in a savory broth, which instills yet another layer of flavor. Because the process is a bit difficult in very large quantities, many restaurants take shortcuts, but that is not necessary at home.

INGREDIENTS

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

2-1/3 cups low-sodium chicken broth

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1-1/2 cups long-grain rice, preferably jasmine

1/3 cup canned, fire-roasted crushed tomatoes, or substitute tomato sauce

1/3 cup peeled and grated carrot

1 cup sliced white onion, 1/4-inch thick

1 cup sliced, seeded poblano chile, 1/4-inch thick

1/4 cup frozen peas

DIRECTIONS

Prepare the broth. Put the garlic and the salt in a blender, add 1 cup of the broth, and purée. Add the rest of the broth and blend again to mix thoroughly. Reserve.

Fry the rice. Heat a large pot (I like to use a cast iron Dutch oven) over medium heat, add the olive oil, and stir in the rice. Cook the rice, stirring frequently, until it turns golden brown. If necessary, turn the heat down to keep it from scorching. When it is done, in 5–8 minutes, you will hear a sound like sand being tossed in a metal container.

Cook the sauce into the rice. Stir the crushed tomato or tomato sauce into the browned rice, turn the heat to medium or just a bit over, and cook, stirring almost constantly, until nearly all the liquid has evaporated and the rice grains no longer stick together, about 5 minutes. This is very important, as the more liquid that has evaporated the lighter the rice will be. At first you will think it’s never going to happen, but it will. Toward the end, some of the rice may begin to scorch. A little of that adds to the flavor, but lower the heat to minimize it.

Cook the rice. Blend the broth mixture briefly and pour it into the pot with the rice. Raise the heat to high and add the carrots, sliced onion, poblano, and frozen peas. Bring the broth to a full boil, cover the pot, turn the heat as low as you can to keep the broth at a simmer, and cook for 15 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and let the rice steam for 10 minutes. Remove the lid and gently stir the rice with a fork to separate the grains. Cover the pot and allow the rice to steam for 10 more minutes.

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Saffron Rice

8–10 servings

The elegant taste of saffron brings Mexico’s Spanish heritage to the table with this terrific rice dish. Like other pilaf-style rice, it can be made a day or two in advance and successfully reheated in a microwave.

INGREDIENTS

1 pinch (about 1/4 packed teaspoon) saffron threads

3 cups low-sodium chicken broth

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons butter substitute

1-1/2 cups jasmine rice, or substitute any good long-grain rice

1/4 cup minced white onion

1 medium serrano chile, seeds and veins removed and minced

2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley

DIRECTIONS

Infuse the broth with saffron. Place the saffron in a heat-proof bowl. Bring 1 cup of broth just to a boil and pour it over the saffron. Steep the mixture for at least 15 minutes.

Make the rest of the cooking liquid. Place 3 of the minced garlic cloves and the salt in a blender, add the remaining 2 cups broth and lime juice, and blend until puréed.

Cook the rice in the oil and butter. Heat a heavy pot over medium heat and add the olive oil and butter substitute. When the butter has melted, stir in the rice and cook for 3–5 minutes, stirring frequently, until it just begins to brown. Add the remaining minced clove of garlic, the onion, and chile to the rice and stir for 1 minute. Stir in the blended broth mixture and the saffron-infused broth and bring to a boil. Cover the pot, turn the heat as low as possible while keeping the liquid at a medium simmer, and cook the rice for 15 minutes.

Finish the rice. Remove the pot from the heat and allow the rice to steam, covered, for 10 minutes. Remove the lid and carefully stir the rice with a fork to separate the grains. Stir in the parsley, replace the lid, and allow the rice to sit for another 10 minutes before serving.

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Arroz Huérfano

ORPHAN’S RICE

8–10 servings

“Rich person’s rice” would be a more appropriate name for this delicious dish, which takes the elegant Saffron Rice and kicks it up a notch. While this recipe has quite a few calories for a side dish, it can be served in much smaller portions, and friends in Mexico often serve it with a small salad or just sliced avocado to make an entire meal because the rice has a nice amount of protein.

INGREDIENTS

1 recipe Saffron Rice (page 62) prepared through the first 10 minutes of steaming, after the pot has been removed from the heat

1 tablespoon butter substitute

1/2 cup blanched slivered almonds

1/3 cup pecan halves

1/3 cup walnut halves

1/3 cup pine nuts

3 ounces lower-sodium ham, finely chopped

DIRECTIONS

Sauté the nuts. While the Saffron Rice is cooking, heat a skillet over medium heat. Add the butter substitute, and when it has melted, add the nuts. Sauté the nuts, stirring constantly, until the almonds begin to turn golden. Remove the skillet from the heat, stir in the ham, and set aside.

Finish the rice. After adding the parsley to the Saffron Rice, stir in the cooked nuts and ham, cover the pot, and allow the rice to steam for the final 10 minutes.

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Brown Rice

5–7 half-cup servings

Brown rice can be eaten by itself or added to white rice to produce a healthier outcome with a nice nutty flavor. This is the best way I have found to prepare it.

INGREDIENTS

1 cup brown rice

6 cups water, plus water for rinsing

1-1/2 teaspoons salt

DIRECTIONS

Rinse the rice. Place the rice in a bowl, cover it with water, and massage it for about 10 seconds. Place the rice in a strainer and rinse under cold running water for 15 seconds.

Cook the rice. In a large pot, bring the 6 cups of water and the salt to a boil. Add the rice and simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes. Pour the rice into your strainer and allow it to drain for 15 seconds, discarding all the cooking water.

Steam the rice. Return the rice to the pot and cover it tightly. To make a good seal, sandwich a towel between the lid and the pot. Allow the rice to steam for 15 minutes off the heat. Stir the rice with a fork and serve or mix it with another rice.

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BEANS

For centuries the Mexican diet was based on the staples of corn, beans, squash, and chiles, often grown together in small garden plots called milpas. Much of the nutritional benefit, including most of the protein, came from beans, and that is true to this day. A recent study concluded that a daily cup of beans, accompanied by one less sugary soda, could positively affect the incidence of diabetes in children.

Since I first began cooking, I have been told never to salt beans until the end of the cooking process, because doing so would make them tough. I followed this advice and have been pleased with the results. However, when I saw a recipe by the innovative folks at Cook’s Illustrated that advised exactly the opposite, I could not resist trying it. They said to bring the beans to a boil with salted water, then cover and remove them from the heat and allow them to sit for an hour. The results were tender, creamy, and delicious, some of the best beans I had ever had. After several more experiments with the same results, I decided to use that process for most of the following recipes.

Frijoles de Olla

POT BEAN

About 12 half-cup servings

Frijoles de Olla is the basic bean recipe from which more elaborate versions, such as Frijoles Borrachos and Frijoles a la Charra, are made. It is also the first step in making Frijoles Refritos (refried beans). The recipe works for most beans, including the most popular ones: pinto, black, pink, bayo, and peruano (Peruvian). Most cooks add the flavorings to the pot with the beans, but I have found that, as with rice, blending them with the cooking liquid, which is then absorbed into the beans, provides a more flavorful result. As mentioned in the introduction, I am using the cooking method which heats the beans in salted water and allows them to soak for one hour before finishing them. That process leaves the total cooking time about the same or perhaps adds an additional 15 minutes, but it produces delicious results.

Please note that when beans are cooked at a vigorous simmer, the skins will tend to come off and thicken the broth. Some cooks like this effect, while others prefer the beans to be more intact, with a thinner broth.

INGREDIENTS

4 quarts water

3 tablespoons salt

1 pound pinto or black beans, or any others mentioned above, picked over to remove any stones or broken beans

3 cloves garlic, chopped

1/3 cup chopped white onions

1 teaspoon dried leaf oregano

1 quart water, plus a little more, if needed

2 sprigs epazote (optional with black beans)

Salt to taste

DIRECTIONS

Heat and soak the beans. Put the 4 quarts water, salt, and beans into a pot (6 quarts is a good size). Bring to a full boil, cover the pot, remove it from the heat, and allow the beans to sit for 1 hour. Discard the soaking water, rinse the beans thoroughly, rinse out the pot, and return the beans to it.

Finish the beans. Put the garlic, onion, oregano, and 1 cup of the water in a blender and purée. Add 3 more cups water and blend briefly.

Pour the blended liquid into the pot with the beans, bring to a boil, and add the epazote, if using. Simmer the beans, covered except for about 1/2 inch, or just enough to allow some steam to escape, until they are tender. Depending on your altitude and how dry the beans were to begin with, this usually takes about a half hour. If it takes a little longer or if you cooked the beans at a rapid simmer, you may have to add a little more water to keep the beans covered. Remove the epazote and add salt to taste. I usually add none, and that is how the nutrition calculations were made.

(To estimate the amount of sodium, I calculated the percentage of the liquid the beans absorbed during the soaking and assumed they absorbed salt in the same ratio.)

The beans are now ready to serve, for additional ingredients to be added to make more elaborate bean dishes, or to be made into refried beans.

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Frijoles Charros or Borrachos

CHARRO OR DRUNKEN BEANS

About 7 cups, or 14 half-cup servings

This recipe is a staple at Mexican carnes asadas (barbecue cookouts) and works equally well with pinto or black beans. To make it into Frijoles Borrachos, blend the garlic, onions, and oregano with 20 ounces of water, instead of 1 quart, and add a 12-ounce bottle of beer to the beans after they have been drained and rinsed. The finished dish should have enough liquid to give it a consistency between that of a stew and a soup, so you may have to add a little more water toward the end; I usually add about 1/2 cup. For a vegetarian version, omit the bacon and chorizo. In either case, the addition of a little mild vinegar at the end causes the flavor to bloom. I find the salt from the Frijoles de Olla, the bacon, and the chorizo to be enough, but you may want to add a little more at the end with the vinegar. (The nutrition calculations do not include extra salt.)

INGREDIENTS

1 recipe Frijoles de Olla (page 65)

1/2 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 slice bacon, finely chopped

1-1/2 ounces (about 3 tablespoons) Mexican chorizo, skinned and finely chopped

3/4 cup chopped white onion

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped serrano chile

1 cup crushed canned tomatoes, preferably fire-roasted

1/2 tablespoon dried leaf oregano

1/4 cup loosely packed cilantro

1-1/2 tablespoons rice vinegar

DIRECTIONS

Sauté and add the vegetables. When the Frijoles de Olla are nearly done, heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the bacon and chorizo and cook until most of the fat has rendered. Add the onion, garlic, and chile and continue cooking just until they begin to soften. Add the tomatoes and oregano and continue cooking until the crushed tomatoes begin to thicken and lose their tinny taste, about 5 minutes. Add the cilantro and then pour the contents of the skillet into the beans.

Finish the beans. Add the vinegar and any salt and simmer for 5 minutes.

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Frijoles Refritos

REFRIED BEANS

4 half-cup servings

Refried beans are usually made by frying cooked beans with fat and some of their liquid. The beans are mashed into the liquid with a perforated bean masher as they thicken. The following method, used by many restaurants, avoids that last messy and tedious step by processing the beans with some of their liquid until smooth before adding them to the skillet. The traditional fat is lard, and the only other way to get the right flavor is to use some bacon fat. I sometimes use home-rendered lard, but olive oil also makes a very good substitute. Another delicious option is duck fat. It has fewer calories than olive oil and less saturated fat and cholesterol than other animal fats. The amount of liquid you process the beans with is difficult to specify exactly, but it usually comes to about 1/2 cup per cup of cooked beans. Just make sure the result is not too thick. If you add a little too much liquid, you just need to cook the beans a little longer to get the right consistency, so err on the side of too much.

INGREDIENTS

2 cups Frijoles de Olla (page 65) made with pinto or black beans, or lightly salted or unsalted canned beans, broth reserved

1 cup bean broth

2 teaspoons minced, canned chipotle chile

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano

2 tablespoons homemade lard (page 12), extra-virgin olive oil, or duck fat

2 cloves garlic, minced

4 teaspoons grated cotija cheese (optional; adds fewer than 10 calories)

DIRECTIONS

Process the beans. Put the beans into a food processor and add the broth, chipotle chile, cumin, and oregano. Process until the beans are smooth, adding more broth if they appear too thick.

Cook the beans. Heat a skillet over medium heat and add the fat or oil. Add the garlic and allow it to cook for just a few seconds, then add the puréed beans. Cook, stirring constantly, until the beans are heated through and as thick or thin as you like them. Serve topped with the cheese, if you wish.

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Quick Beans

8 half-cup servings

This recipe produces very good beans in just a few minutes. If you can find them, use canned beans with no added salt.

INGREDIENTS

3 (14-1/2-ounce) cans black or pinto beans, preferably with no salt added

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped or put through a garlic press

1/2 heaping teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano

1/2 tablespoon adobo sauce or chopped canned chipotle chile

1 teaspoon rice vinegar

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

1/2 teaspoon salt, if using unsalted beans, or to taste

DIRECTIONS

Drain the beans. Drain the liquid from the beans into a bowl and reserve.

Heat the beans. Heat the oil in a medium-sized pot over medium heat, add the garlic, and cook for about 30 seconds; do not allow it to brown. Add the drained beans and the remaining ingredients. Add enough of the reserved bean liquid to achieve whatever consistency you would like and bring the mixture to a simmer. Simmer a minute or 2, and the dish is done.

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Santa Maria–style Beans

About 14 half-cup servings

These unique beans are traditionally served with barbecued meats in Central California. The pinquito variety is found almost nowhere else but around Santa Maria. They are a smaller version of pink beans, which are themselves a smaller version of pinto beans. The latter two are substitutes in that order of preference. Fortunately, pinquitos are available on the Internet and are well worth getting. However, any beans you use will be delicious and a perfect complement to grilled foods. Most California cooks soak the beans, so that is what the recipe calls for.

INGREDIENTS

1 pound pinquito beans, or substitute pink or pinto beans

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 pieces of thick-sliced bacon, finely chopped

1/2 cup lower-sodium ham, cut to a 1/4-inch dice

3 cloves garlic, minced

3/4 cup crushed tomatoes, preferably fire-roasted

1/4 cup Chile Sauce (page 45), or substitute La Palma red chile enchilada sauce; for a more piquant version, use 2 tablespoons sriracha and 2 tablespoons water

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1 tablespoon agave nectar or sugar

1-1/2 teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons minced parsley

DIRECTIONS

Soak the beans. Put the beans in a large strainer or colander, pick them over, and remove any stones or broken beans. Put the beans in a large bowl, cover them by about 2 inches with water, and allow them to soak overnight.

Cook the beans. Drain the beans, place them in a pot, and cover them with water by about 1 inch. Bring to a boil, partially cover the pot, and simmer until they are tender, 45–90 minutes. Check them frequently as you will probably have to add more water from time to time.

Prepare the seasoning sauce. While the beans are cooking, put the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat and add the bacon. When the bacon begins to sizzle, stir in the ham. When the bacon is well browned, add the garlic and cook 1 minute. Stir in the tomatoes, Chile Sauce, mustard, agave nectar, and salt and simmer the sauce until it just begins to thicken, 2–3 minutes.

Finish the beans. When the beans are tender, drain off all but about 1/2 cup of the liquid and stir in the seasoning sauce. Cook the beans for 1 minute, stir in the parsley, and serve.

PER SERVING

RAJAS

Fried or Grilled Strips of Chile and Onion

In culinary terms, rajas (pronounced RAH-hahs) refers to sliced chiles and onions that are sautéed or grilled. They are usually served with grilled meats and poultry, such as fajitas, but are also used in tacos and quesadillas, with meat or cheese. For both diet and enjoyment, Rajas make a wonderful accompaniment to grilled beef, pork, lamb, or chicken, often serving as a much more interesting version of “smothered in onions.”

There are three basic styles of Rajas. There is the version I call “Seared,” where sliced onions and unpeeled poblano chiles are stir-fried in oil over high heat until just cooked through and seared on the outside. Another way of preparing Rajas is to caramelize the onions by cooking them slowly over low heat until they give off nearly all their moisture and become sweet, golden-brown morsels. In that case, the poblanos are always roasted and skinned to produce the proper texture. In some parts of Mexico, including Baja California, the onions and unpeeled chiles are grilled over oak or mesquite, and jalapeños are often used in place of poblanos.

Once the grilled Rajas are cooked, they are sliced or chopped and given a spritz of lime juice. Please note that because they have many fewer onions, the grilled Rajas have fewer carbohydrates.

Seared Rajas

4 servings

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium white onion, cut into 1/4-inch slices

2 medium poblano chiles, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1/4-inch slices

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Juice from 1/2 lime, or to taste

DIRECTIONS

Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium-high to high heat. Add the olive oil, onions, and chiles, and cook, stirring almost constantly, until the chiles soften, begin to turn golden, and char a bit. Add the salt, pepper, and lime juice, mix well, and serve.

PER SERVING

Caramelized Rajas

4 servings

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium white onions, peeled, cut into 1/4-inch slices

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2 medium poblano chiles, roasted, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/4-inch slices (page 16)

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Juice from 1/2 lime, or to taste

DIRECTIONS

Heat a 12-inch skillet over medium heat. Add the olive oil, onions, and salt, which will help the onions release their liquid. Cook, stirring frequently, until the onions just begin to take on color, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Keep cooking the onions slowly, stirring frequently and adjusting the temperature to keep them from scorching, until they are a deep golden brown. Add the garlic and roasted poblano chiles and cook until the garlic and chiles are soft. Stir in the pepper and lime juice and serve.

PER SERVING

Grilled Rajas

4 servings

INGREDIENTS

5 large jalapeño chiles, stemmed, cut in half, and seeded

2 slices (1/2-inch thick) from the center of a large white onion

3 very large garlic cloves

Cooking spray

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/2 teaspoon whole leaf oregano

Juice from 1/2 lime, or to taste

DIRECTIONS

Prepare the chiles, onion, and garlic. The easiest way to grill the chiles, onions, and garlic is in a perforated steel grill pan. The next best way is to skewer them. To do that, thread the chiles on thin skewers with the cut sides facing the same way. If you use wooden skewers, be sure to soak them to keep them from burning. Pierce the onion slices horizontally with another skewer. Pierce the garlic cloves with another skewer. Spray all the vegetables with cooking spray.

Grill the Rajas. Light a mesquite, oak, or charcoal fire, or turn a gas grill as high as it will go. The best time to grill the Rajas over wood or charcoal is just before the coals are completely ready and there are still some flames. That makes it easy to cook them before you add any meat with which they will be served. Grill the chiles, onions, and garlic until they are golden brown. Some of them will probably become quite charred and blackened, but that’s just fine.

Finish the Rajas. Remove the vegetables from the grill, pull them off the skewers, if using, and chop the vegetables coarsely. Toss the Rajas with the salt, pepper, oregano, and lime juice.

PER SERVING

Mexican Street Corn

4 servings

One of the joys of walking the streets in Mexico is the sight and aroma of food being prepared in puestos (stalls), and corn grilling over charcoal or wood coals is one of the best! The following recipe is easy and delicious. The number of calories can be reduced by substituting Miracle Whip for the mayonnaise, if you don’t mind the different flavor. You could also use low-calorie mayo. A dusting of cotija cheese at the end is optional, but it adds a great deal in return for very few calories.

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons canola oil

2 cloves garlic, minced or put through a garlic press

4 ears corn, husked

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1 teaspoon pure chile powder from ancho or New Mexico chiles

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/4 cup grated cotija cheese (optional)

Lime wedges

DIRECTIONS

Prepare the garlic oil. Heat the canola oil over low heat, add the garlic, and sauté until the garlic is soft but not browned.

Grill the corn. Preheat a gas or charcoal grill or a stovetop grill pan. Brush the corn all over with the garlic oil and grill it on all sides over medium to medium-high heat until the corn is tender and well browned, 6–10 minutes.

Prepare the flavoring paste. While the corn is grilling, combine the mayonnaise, chile powder, garlic powder, cumin, and pepper.

Finish the corn. When the corn is done, brush it with the flavoring paste and, if using, dust with the cheese. Serve with the lime wedges.

PER SERVING

Roasted-Garlic Sweet Potatoes

4 servings

When properly prepared, sweet potatoes can be as good as or better than regular potatoes. They are popular in Mexico, and this recipe, which I adapted from one by Chef Ming Tsai, makes a great side dish. It is also a terrific substitute for both regular roasted potatoes and hash browns and is particularly good with grilled foods and eggs. That the potatoes do not need to be peeled makes the recipe especially easy to prepare. They also heat up well in a microwave, although the crisp texture is lost.

Two important things to remember when making the dish are to cut the potatoes to no more than 1/2-inch square and to use good oven mitts and extreme caution when extracting the preheated skillet or casserole dish from the oven. I use a 12-inch iron skillet, which decreases the cooking time and makes the potatoes crispier, but you could use any baking dish of the same size.

INGREDIENTS

1-1/2 pounds unpeeled sweet potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

12 cloves garlic, peeled and cut in half

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1–2 tablespoons minced serrano or jalapeño chile

3/4 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

DIRECTIONS

Preheat your oven and pan. Place a 12-inch ovenproof skillet or casserole dish large enough to hold the potatoes in a single layer in the oven, turn the heat to 375°F, and heat the pan for 30 minutes.

Mix the ingredients. While the skillet is heating, combine all the ingredients in a bowl.

Roast the potatoes. Remove the heated skillet from the oven and immediately evenly distribute the mixed ingredients. Put the skillet in the oven and roast the potatoes for 45 minutes, stirring every 15 minutes so they will cook evenly.

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Sweet Potatoes Mashed with Coconut Milk and Roasted Garlic

5 half-cup servings

Sweet potatoes are popular in Mexico, especially in tropical areas. This recipe makes a delicious side dish or part of a vegetarian meal, and it does so without resorting to ingredients such as brown sugar and marshmallows. It is also used in the terrific Sweet Potato Enchiladas (page 141).

INGREDIENTS

8 cloves garlic, peeled

Cooking spray

1/2 cup lite coconut milk

1 tablespoon butter substitute, melted

1/2 tablespoon chopped canned chipotle chile

1/2 teaspoon salt

1-1/2 pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces

DIRECTIONS

Preheat your oven to 350°F.

Roast the garlic and prepare the coconut mixture. Place the garlic on several folds of aluminum foil, spray it liberally with cooking spray, wrap it tightly, and put it in the preheated oven for 45 minutes. Remove the garlic from the oven and, when it is cool enough to handle, unwrap it and put it in the bowl of a food processor. Add the coconut milk, butter substitute, chipotle, and salt and process until thoroughly combined, 30–60 seconds. Reserve.

Cook and finish the sweet potatoes. Put the potatoes in a pot, cover them with water, bring to a boil, and simmer until they are very tender, 10–12 minutes. Drain the potatoes into a strainer and allow them to sit for 3 minutes. Put the potatoes through a potato ricer into a dry bowl, add the coconut mixture, and mix well.

PER SERVING

Calabacitas

4 servings

A savory dish of squash, corn, and mild chiles, Calabacitas is traditionally made with squash, corn, onion, and roasted poblano chiles sautéed in butter, but a good butter substitute works very well. It is best made with fresh corn, but frozen will work in a pinch.

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons butter substitute

1 cup white onion, sliced about 1/8-inch thick

Kernels from 2 ears of corn, or substitute 1-1/2 cups frozen corn, thawed and measured after thawing

2/3 cup roasted, peeled, and sliced poblano peppers (page 16)

12 ounces zucchini, cut into strips about 2-1/2 inches long by 1/4-inch wide and thick (about 4 cups)

1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons sour cream

2 tablespoons loosely packed chopped cilantro

DIRECTIONS

Melt the butter substitute in a pan over medium heat. Add the onion and corn and sauté until the onion is just beginning to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the poblano, zucchini, oregano, salt, and pepper, cover the pan, and cook until the zucchini is soft, about 3 minutes. Add the sour cream and cilantro and toss until well mixed.

PER SERVING

Roasted Cauliflower

4 servings

If I could have only one cooked vegetable dish, this might be it. It is easy to prepare, heats up well in a microwave, and is delicious as either a side dish or part of a vegetarian entrée.

INGREDIENTS

1 very large head of cauliflower (about 1 pound 6 ounces after trimming), cut into florets 1–3 inches in diameter

1-1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

8 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons grated cotija cheese, or substitute Parmesan

DIRECTIONS

Preheat your oven to 375°F.

Prepare and roast the cauliflower. Arrange the florets in a baking dish that will accommodate them in one layer, stems facing up (I use a 12-inch iron skillet). Add the olive oil, pepper, and half the garlic and toss. Roast for 25 minutes. If the cauliflower has browned on the bottom, turn it so that the browned side is up. If it is not yet brown on the bottom, keep roasting until it is, and then turn it and add the remaining garlic. Lower the heat to 350°F and continue roasting until the cauliflower is tender and well browned, 20–25 minutes, or a total of 45–55 minutes.

Finish the dish. When the cauliflower is tender and golden brown, remove it from the oven and immediately sprinkle on the cheese.

PER SERVING

Roasted Carrots

4 servings

Roasting brings out the best in many vegetables that are otherwise a bit bland, and that is especially true with carrots.

INGREDIENTS

1-1/2 pounds carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2–3/4-inch pieces

6 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed

1-1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 heaping teaspoon dried thyme

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1/4 heaping teaspoon salt

DIRECTIONS

Preheat your oven to 400°F.

Put the carrots in a 12-inch iron skillet or on a baking dish large enough to hold them in a single layer. Stir in the remaining ingredients, cover the skillet tightly with foil, and roast for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and continue roasting for 20 minutes. Stir and roast an additional 5–10 minutes, or until the carrots are well browned.

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Pozole Side Dish

About 10 servings

Pozole is usually thought of as a stew or soup, where the hominy is just one of several ingredients. However, in New Mexico, pozole is often served as a side dish, sometimes alongside rice and beans, especially on enchilada and combination plates. It is both nutritious and delicious and always reminds me of great meals in Santa Fe, Albuquerque, and Taos. Please see the section on Hominy (page 11) before proceeding.

INGREDIENTS

1-1/2 cups dried hominy

1/2 cup chopped onions

1/2 cup roasted, peeled, and chopped fresh green New Mexico, Anaheim, or poblano chiles

1 teaspoon dried leaf oregano

1/4 cup chopped tomato

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS

Soak the hominy. The day before you plan to serve the Pozole, put the hominy in a bowl, cover it with several inches of water, and allow it to soak at room temperature for 24 hours.

Cook the Pozole. Drain the hominy and discard the soaking water. Rinse the hominy, put it in a pot, and cover it with 2 inches of water. Bring to a boil, add the remaining ingredients, and simmer, partially covered, until the kernels are al dente and appear about to burst, about 2–2-1/2 hours. Uncover the pot and continue simmering until nearly all the liquid has evaporated.

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Savory Corn Fritters

4 servings

This is the savory version of sweet Breakfast Corn Cakes (page 224). It leaves the corn kernels whole and adds some chile and spices to make a great accompaniment for poultry or pork. In a pinch, the dish can be made with thawed and towel-dried frozen corn. Each of the chile options creates a different result, and although it is a bit more trouble, I think the roasted poblanos are a bit earthier. Also, please note that if you are using fresh corn, some of the kernels will pop out of the fritters; just use them as a garnish.

INGREDIENTS

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1-1/2 tablespoons cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1 egg, beaten

1/4 cup cold water

3 tablespoons roasted, peeled, and finely chopped poblano chile, or substitute 2 tablespoons seeded and finely chopped jalapeño pepper

1-1/2 cups fresh corn kernels (from about 2 ears)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

DIRECTIONS

Make the batter. Combine the flour, cornstarch, baking powder, salt, oregano, and cumin. Beat the egg and cold water together and mix thoroughly into the dry ingredients. Stir in the chile and corn and allow the batter to sit for 15–20 minutes to make sure the flour is completely hydrated.

Cook the fritters. Heat a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat (350°–375°F if you have a laser thermometer) and add the oil. Scoop 4 slightly heaping 1/3-cup portions of the batter into the skillet and pat them flat with a spatula. Cook the fritters until they are golden brown on the bottom, about 3 minutes. Turn the fritters and cook until they are browned on the other side, about another 3 minutes.

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Calabacitas y Nopalitos

SQUASH AND CACTUS

4 servings

This cactus-based riff on Calabacitas is one of the best and healthiest side dishes I have ever had, and with the addition of some queso fresco it makes an outstanding vegetarian entrée, adding only 60 calories per serving. As a side dish, it goes particularly well with chicken.

INGREDIENTS

1-1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 cups chopped white onion

1 cup cleaned and chopped nopalitos, 1/2-inch dice (from about 1/4 pound)

1/2 tablespoon butter substitute

1 cup fresh corn kernels (from about 1 ear of corn), or substitute thawed frozen corn

1-1/2 cups chopped zucchini, 1/2–3/4-inch pieces

1 teaspoon dried leaf oregano

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

For a vegetarian entrée, 3 ounces queso fresco, cut into 3/4-inch pieces

DIRECTIONS

Cook the onions and nopalitos. Heat the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, add the onions, and cook, stirring frequently, until they begin to soften, about 2 minutes. Add the nopalitos, cover the pot, and continue cooking for 5 minutes. Uncover the pot. You will see that the nopalitos have released their viscous liquid. To remove it, raise the heat to medium-high and continue cooking, stirring almost constantly, until you see that it has evaporated and the onions are browning. Another signal will be that the crackling and sizzling sound increases; this usually takes 5–7 minutes.

Finish the dish. Add the butter substitute to the pot and melt. Add the corn and cook 1 minute, stirring frequently. Add the zucchini, oregano, salt, and pepper and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until the zucchini is as tender as you like it. Stir in the cilantro and serve, unless you are making the vegetarian entrée. In that case, add the cheese after the cilantro, continue cooking just until the cheese begins to melt, and serve with corn tortillas.

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Grilled Prickly Pear Cactus

4 servings

A staple at carnes asadas (cookouts) in northern Mexico, whole grilled prickly pear paddles make an interesting presentation and a delicious accompaniment to grilled meats.

INGREDIENTS

4 medium-sized but thin prickly pear paddles

Salt

Cooking spray

DIRECTIONS

Start a charcoal or wood fire or preheat a gas grill to high.

Prepare the cactus. Remove any spines or nodes from the paddles with a paring knife or the end of a vegetable peeler, using tongs and great care not to be injured by the spines. Cut off and discard about 1/4 inch from the perimeter of each paddle. Make parallel slices on the paddles lengthwise about 1 inch apart, from the rounded tops to within about 2 inches of the base of each paddle. Toss the paddles with enough salt to cover both sides and let them sit for 15 minutes in a colander or on a plate.

Grill the cactus. Rinse off the salt, dry the cactus, and liberally spray both sides with cooking spray. Grill on both sides until tender and serve with grilled foods.

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Quinoa

About 8 half-cup servings

Quinoa, pronounced KEEN-wah, is originally from South America. Although not usually associated with Mexican cooking, it is included here because it is delicious, is extremely nutritious and easy to prepare, and makes a great substitute for rice and other starches to serve with entrées, especially poultry, fish, and vegetables. Quinoa is very high in protein, and since it contains the essential amino acids, it is a complete protein. It is also fairly high in calcium, making it especially useful for the lactose intolerant. Please note that quinoa comes with a bitter-tasting coating called saponin that is useful for keeping birds and insects from destroying the crop. Be sure to purchase a brand that has removed the coating, or you will have to do that yourself by soaking and rinsing it.

INGREDIENTS

For the quinoa

1 cup quinoa

2 cups water

For the dressing

1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

1 teaspoon agave nectar

3/4 teaspoon dried tarragon

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

For the vegetables

1 tablespoon butter substitute

1/4 cup minced red onion

1 cup diced zucchini, 1/4–1/2-inch pieces

1 tablespoon minced parsley

1 tablespoon minced cilantro

1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste

DIRECTIONS

Cook the quinoa. Put the quinoa in a medium-sized saucepan and stir in the water. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer gently until all the liquid is absorbed, 10–15 minutes.

Make the dressing. While the quinoa is cooking, whisk together the mustard, vinegar, agave nectar, tarragon, and pepper until well combined. Continue whisking as you add the oil in a slow stream.

Sauté the onion and zucchini. Heat a skillet over medium heat. Add the butter substitute and onion and sauté until the onion just begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Stir in the zucchini and continue cooking until it is just tender, 3–4 minutes. Stir in the parsley and cilantro and remove the pan from the heat.

Finish the dish. Combine the quinoa with the onion and zucchini and stir in the dressing. Add salt to taste.

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