PORK IS MEXICO’S most popular meat, especially in the central and southern parts of the country. While many favorite pork dishes have too much fat and too many calories to fit into a healthy lifestyle, except, of course, as an occasional splurge, fortunately, many others offer considerable rewards without seriously compromising nutrition.
VAMPIRE’S PORK
4 servings
In Mexico, tequila is often drunk with a chaser of sangrita, which is made with a combination of orange juice, grenadine, chile, and sometimes tomato juice. When tequila is mixed with sangrita and topped with club soda, the cocktail is called a Vampiro. Those are the ingredients used in this delicious alta cocina offering, inspired by a recipe in La cocina de Laura, by Laura B. de Caraza Campos.
INGREDIENTS
For the sauce
2 medium-sized ancho chiles, toasted and rehydrated (page 15–16)
2 cups freshly squeezed orange juice
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
1/4 cup grenadine
1/2 cup silver tequila
1/2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 cup sliced white onion
2 pork tenderloins, about 1 pound each
1-1/2 teaspoons pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
DIRECTIONS
Preheat your oven to 350°F.
Make the sauce. Put the chiles in a blender with the orange juice, lime juice, grenadine, and tequila. Blend for 1 minute, or until the chiles are thoroughly puréed. Pour into a bowl, add the salt, thyme, and onions, and reserve.
Braise the pork. Season the pork tenderloins with the pepper. Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or similar heavy oven-safe pot over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the pork and brown all sides. Remove the pot from the heat, pour out a little of the oil, and add the chile sauce. Return the pot to the heat and cook on medium-high until the sauce just comes to a simmer. Place the pot in the oven and cook, uncovered, until the pork reaches 140°F, about 30 minutes, basting with the sauce every 10 minutes. Remove the pork to a cutting board, tent it loosely with foil, and allow it to rest for 5 minutes. While the meat is resting, reduce the sauce over high heat until it coats the back of a spoon.
To serve, slice the pork as thick or thin as you like, place it on serving plates, and spoon some of the sauce over the meat. White Mexican-style rice (page 61) goes particularly well with this dish.
PER SERVING
430 calories | 49 g protein | 23 g carbohydrates | 9 g total fat (2 g saturated) | 145 mg cholesterol | 2 g fiber | 15 g sugar | 420 mg sodium
WEDDING STEW
4 servings
Traditionally served at weddings in parts of northern Mexico, Asado de Boda is actually a very simple and exceptionally delicious mole. And it may be the inspiration for New Mexico’s famous Carne Adovada. This recipe substitutes lean pork tenderloin for the more usual—and fatty—pork shoulder. The result is a great “reward” meal, where Splenda can be used effectively.
INGREDIENTS
1-1/2 large or 2 medium ancho chiles, toasted and rehydrated (page 15–16)
2-1/4 cups water
1-1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for browning the meat if necessary
1-1/2 pounds pork tenderloin, cut into 1/2–3/4-inch pieces
1/2 cup chopped white onion
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano
1/2 teaspoon dried marjoram
1/8 heaping teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 heaping teaspoon cinnamon, preferably canela
2 teaspoons Splenda or sugar
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon finely ground black pepper
1-1/2 teaspoons cider vinegar
2 teaspoons finely chopped bittersweet chocolate
2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest
DIRECTIONS
Purée the chiles. Place the chiles in a blender, add the water, and blend to a smooth purée.
Brown the pork. Heat a pot over medium-high to high heat and add the olive oil. Stir in the meat and allow it to cook undisturbed until it is well browned on one side, about 30 seconds, then turn it to brown each side. When the meat is well browned on all sides, remove it to a bowl.
Finish the dish. Lower the heat to medium, add the onions to the pot, and cook, stirring often, until they are soft but not browned. Add the garlic and continue stirring until it is just cooked through. If you need more oil, add a little more olive oil or a spritz or two of cooking spray.
Return the meat to the pan, add the blended chiles and the remaining ingredients except the chocolate and orange zest. Bring to a boil, cover, and turn the heat down so that the liquid stays at a medium simmer and continue cooking for 50 minutes. Uncover the pot and raise the heat to bring the liquid to a brisk simmer. Cook until the sauce is thick enough to coat the meat. Stir in the chocolate and orange peel and simmer, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Serve with hot corn tortillas.
PER SERVING
280 calories | 37 g protein | 9 g carbohydrates | 10 g total fat (2.5 g saturated) | 110 mg cholesterol | 2 g fiber | 2 g sugar | 560 mg sodium
4 servings
I would never pretend that these are the traditional and beloved fried-in-lard carnitas. But they are not just a pale diet version of the succulent original either. They are more of a separate-but-equal choice—different but just as good in their own way. They make a tasty entrée and an excellent filling for tacos and enchiladas. Some of the milk is turned into little golden-brown cheese-like curds, which are one of the things that make it so delicious.
INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1-1/4 pounds pork tenderloin, cut into 1/2–3/4-inch pieces
1-3/4 cups whole milk
1/4 cup orange juice
3/4 teaspoon dried thyme
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt
DIRECTIONS
Preheat your oven to 325°F.
Brown the pork. Heat an ovenproof pot or Dutch oven over high heat and add 1 tablespoon olive oil and half the pork. Allow the pork to cook undisturbed until it is well browned on one side, about 30 seconds, then turn it to brown the remaining sides. When the pork has browned on all sides, remove it from the pot and repeat the process with the remaining olive oil and pork. When the second batch has browned, remove the pot from the heat, return the first batch of pork to the pot, and allow the contents to cool for about a minute.
Cook the carnitas. Add the remaining ingredients and stir until well mixed. Return the pot to the heat, bring it to a boil, and immediately put it in the oven. Cook for 1 hour, stirring every 20 minutes. Check periodically to make sure all the liquid has not evaporated. If it has, add just a little more milk.
Remove the pot from the oven, place it over medium heat, and bring it to a simmer. Continue cooking until all the liquid has evaporated and the ingredients—including the bits of cheese curd that will have formed—are a light golden brown. If all the liquid evaporates too soon in the oven, add just a little more milk. Serve the Carnitas with hot corn tortillas and Guacamole (page 59).
PER SERVING
250 calories | 31 g protein | 4 g carbohydrates | 12 g total fat (3 g saturated) | 95 mg cholesterol | 0 g fiber | 3 g sugar | 390 mg sodium
PUEBLA-STYLE PORK STEW
4 servings
This classic dish from Puebla is usually served with just tortillas, but it is also excellent with rice.
INGREDIENTS
1-1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound pork tenderloin, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 ounces homemade Mexican Chorizo (page 119)
1 cup diced white onion
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 (28-ounce) can diced fire-roasted tomatoes, with the juice
1 tablespoon finely chopped canned chipotle chile
1-1/2 tablespoons adobo sauce from the chipotles
8 ounces carrots, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon dried marjoram
1 large avocado, chopped
DIRECTIONS
Sear the pork. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high to high heat until it shimmers, and brown the pork on all sides, 1–2 minutes. Remove the pork to a bowl.
Brown the chorizo. Reduce the heat to medium, add the chorizo, and cook, breaking it up, until it has cooked through.
Finish the stew. Add the remaining 1/2 tablespoon oil, the onions, and the garlic to the chorizo and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are soft. Add the browned pork and the remaining ingredients except the avocado. Lower the heat to a simmer, cover the pot, and cook 45–50 minutes. Serve the Tinga topped with the chopped avocado.
PER SERVING
370 calories | 16 g protein | 29 g carbohydrates | 16 g total fat (3 g saturated) | 80 mg cholesterol | 9 g fiber | 14 g sugar | 490 mg sodium
New Mexico–style Green Chile Stew
4 servings
Green Chile Stew is one of New Mexico’s most important culinary accomplishments. Made from pork, beef, or lamb, or all three, combined with the state’s incomparable green chiles, the dish in all its many forms is a treat. In spite of using lower-fat ingredients, this version ranks near the top of the versions I’ve tried. The combination of pork tenderloin and lean ground beef allows both meats to become tender at the same time and provides a nice contrast of textures. There is no way to perfectly replicate the amazing flavor of New Mexico green chiles, especially those from Hatch, but blending a habanero chile with the broth brings the dish at least partway there. If you do not want the carbohydrates from the potatoes, you can replace them with carrots or hard tofu.
INGREDIENTS
3 cloves garlic, minced or put through a garlic press
1 teaspoon dried leaf oregano
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2/3 cup chopped white onion
3/4 pound pork tenderloin, cut into 1/2–3/4-inch pieces
1/2 pound 96% lean ground sirloin
1 slice bacon, finely chopped
1/2 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1/2 cup chopped tomato
1 cup roasted, peeled, and chopped New Mexico green chiles, or substitute poblano or Anaheim chiles and 1 seeded habanero blended with the broth
2-1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1/2 teaspoon salt
1-1/2 cups peeled and chopped white potatoes
DIRECTIONS
Make the seasoning paste. Grind the garlic, oregano, and cumin together in a molcajete or mortar and pestle and reserve.
Sear the onions. Heat a Dutch oven or similar-sized heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add 1/2 tablespoon of the oil and onions and stir-fry until the onions are soft and brown. Remove the onions and reserve.
Sear the meats. If you are not using New Mexico chiles, blend the seeded habanero with the broth and reserve it. Add the remaining 1-1/2 tablespoons olive oil to the pot and add the pork. Allow the pork to sizzle until it is browned on the bottom, about 30 seconds, then stir-fry it until it has browned all over. Remove it from the pot and reserve. Lower the heat to medium and add the ground sirloin and bacon. Stir-fry, breaking the beef up with a spoon, until it has browned. Return the browned pork to the pot, stir in the flour, and continue to cook, stirring almost constantly for another minute.
Finish the stew. Add the reserved garlic mixture, the tomato, green chiles, broth, and salt. Bring to a boil, cover the pot, and cook at a medium simmer for 30 minutes. Add the potatoes and cook, covered, for 20 minutes. Uncover the pot and continue simmering the stew until it is as thick as you like. If it becomes too thick, add a little more broth or water.
PER SERVING
350 calories | 34 g protein | 16 g carbohydrates | 15 g total fat (4 g saturated) | 95 mg cholesterol | 3 g fiber | 3 g sugar | 490 mg sodium
4 servings
Carne Adovada is a classic and delicious northern New Mexico dish. It is another one that is rarely found elsewhere. It combines sweet, sour, hot, and salty tastes to produce a dish that is both bold and subtle. It is sometimes criticized because, traditionally it is baked without first browning the meat and onions, causing it to be less juicy and flavorful. This recipe cures that problem. It is important to use high-quality New Mexico chile powder (page 10). It is also important to let the meat marinate for 24 hours. In addition to an entrée, it makes a great filling for tacos and burritos.
INGREDIENTS
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1-1/2 cups chopped white onions
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1 teaspoon dried leaf oregano
3 tablespoons pure chile powder made from New Mexico chiles
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, preferably canela
3/4 teaspoon salt
1-1/2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1/2 tablespoon agave nectar or honey
1-1/2 pounds pork tenderloin, cut into 3/4-inch pieces
1/2 cup water
DIRECTIONS
Make the seasoning paste. Put 1 tablespoon oil in a skillet over medium heat and add 1 cup of the onions. Cook them until they are caramelized to a golden brown, adjusting the heat as necessary to keep them from burning. Add the garlic and continue cooking until it is cooked through but not browned. Place the cooked onions and garlic in a food processor with the oregano, chile powder, cinnamon, salt, vinegar, and agave nectar and process to a smooth paste. If necessary, transfer the mixture to a molcajete and grind it until very smooth.
Marinate the meat. Put the pork and the remaining 1/2 cup onions in a nonreactive bowl. Massage the seasoning paste into the meat. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours.
Cook the meat. Preheat your oven to 325°F. Heat a Dutch oven or similar oven-safe pot over medium heat (400°F if you have a laser thermometer). Add 1 tablespoon olive oil and half of the marinated pork. Allow it to sizzle undisturbed until it is browned on the bottom, about 30 seconds, then stir-fry it until it is just browned on all sides. Remove the meat to a dish and repeat with the remaining pork. Combine all of the meat in the pot, add the water, and remove the pot from the heat. In order to thoroughly seal the pot, lay a sheet of aluminum foil over it and push the lid into it. Put the sealed pot in the oven and bake for 1 hour. Serve the Carne Adovada with rice or hot corn tortillas and Guacamole (page 59).
PER SERVING
340 calories | 37 g protein | 11 g carbohydrates | 14 g total fat (2.5 g saturated) | 110 mg cholesterol | 1 g fiber | 6 g sugar | 470 mg sodium
Grilled Pork in a Simple Fruit Mole
4 servings
This mole may be even easier to make than the Simple Mole recipe. I love the combination of prunes and dried mango, but the dish will work with nearly any dried fruit. Dried mango usually has added sugar, so if that is an issue, you might want to substitute something like apricots. I enjoy the pork either grilled entirely over medium-low coals or seared in a ridged grill pan and finished in the oven. The instructions are for the latter.
INGREDIENTS
For the marinade and sauce
1 large ancho chile and 1 large pasilla chile, toasted and rehydrated, 1 cup soaking liquid reserved (page 15–16)
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1-1/2 ounces dried mango, coarsely chopped
1-1/2 ounces pitted prunes, coarsely chopped
1-1/4 pounds pork tenderloin
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1-1/2 cups chicken broth
1 teaspoon cider vinegar
2 tablespoons chopped dark chocolate or chocolate chips
Make the marinade and sauce base. Put the chiles in a blender. Add the lime juice, oregano, salt, pepper, mango, prunes, and 1 cup of chile soaking liquid. Blend to a smooth purée.
Marinate the meat. Remove about 1/3 cup of the puréed marinade and sauce base and reserve the rest. Rub the 1/3 cup sauce base into the pork and refrigerate for at least 3 hours in a zipper bag or a nonreactive bowl, covered.
Make the sauce. Heat a medium-sized saucepan over medium heat, add the olive oil, and then stir in 1 cup of the reserved marinade and sauce base. Lower the heat and simmer, stirring nearly constantly, until it begins to thicken, about 5 minutes. Keep the heat fairly low or the sauce will spatter and make a mess. Stir in the chicken broth and vinegar, bring the sauce to a boil, and simmer until the mole is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon and is reduced to about 1 cup. Stir in the vinegar and chocolate, cook an additional minute, and remove the sauce from the heat.
Preheat your oven to 375°F and cook the meat. Heat a ridged grill pan over medium-high heat, add the marinated pork, and sear until well browned, about 1 minute on each side. Put the pan in the oven and roast the meat until it reaches 140°F, 12–17 minutes. Alternatively, you can grill the pork using the indirect-heat method.
Cut the pork into 1-1/2-inch medallions, put them on serving plates, and top with the sauce. Serve with hot corn tortillas.
PER SERVING
300 calories | 32 g protein | 22 g carbohydrates | 9 g total fat (3 g saturated) | 90 mg cholesterol | 2 g fiber | 13 g sugar | 400 mg sodium