Southwest Coast & Sfakia Σφακιά

The mountainous province of Sfakia extends from the Omalos Plateau down to the southern coast, and has some of the island’s most spectacular landmarks, including Samaria (sa-ma-ria) Gorge, the Lefka Ori (White Mountains) and Mt Gingilos (2080m) in the rugged interior. The memorable drive from Hania to Hora Sfakion – descending through the mountains on numerous loop-back turns overlooking the sea – is one of the most stunning sights in Crete.

The stark, muscular Lefka Ori meet the Libyan Sea along Crete’s corrugated southwestern coast indented with a handful of laid-back beach communities, such as Frangokastello and Loutro. Hora Sfakion is Sfakia’s main village, and a small outpost, perfect for relaxing and boat-hopping further down the coast. Sougia and the larger Paleohora, west of Sfakia proper, are also some of the best places in Crete to unwind. This rocky southern coast is arguably the least changing place in Crete – thanks to the massive cliffs running to the sea. Some of the villages and beaches are accessible only by boat and therefore completely untouched by mass tourism. You can walk or boat-hop to perfectly isolated little coves or soak up the majestic scenery and fragrant air on a scramble through wildly romantic gorges. The gorges, including famous and busy Samaria Gorge, slice through the mountains to the coast. Samaria Gorge, for example, ends at the beach village of Agia Roumeli.

Summer winds blast through the gorges and across the Libyan Sea, which means there is often good windsurfing to be had, especially at Paleohora.

The interior of Sfakia is known for being the only part of Crete never subdued by the Arabs, Venetians or Turks. It was the centre of resistance during the island’s long centuries of domination by foreign powers, and its steep ravines and hills made effective hideaways for Cretan revolutionaries. The Sfakiot people are renowned for their proud fighting spirit and strong culture, and they have a colourfully tragic history of clan vendettas. Their local cuisine includes the delicious Sfakianies pites (thin, flat cheese pie drizzled with honey).

SFAKIA TIPS

AHora Sfakion has the only ATM along the southern coast until you reach Paleohora.

ACheck www.sfakia-crete.com for useful information on Sfakia.

APeter Trudgill’s In Sfakia: Passing Time in the Wilds of Crete (Lycabbetus Press, 2008), sold in local shops, is a memoir documenting the life, legends and values of the Sfakiots.

Askyfou Ασκύφου

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The road to Hora Sfakion takes you across the formerly war-torn plain of Askyfou, which was the scene of one of the most furious battles of the Cretan revolt of 1821. The Sfakiot forces triumphed over the Turks in a bloody battle here, which is still recounted in local songs. More than a century later the plain was the scene of more strife as Allied troops retreated towards their evacuation point in Hora Sfakion.

The central town on the plateau is also called Askyfou, and stretches out on either side of a hill. The post office is at the top of the hill with a minimarket and several tavernas with inexpensive rooms to rent.

1Sights

Askyfou War MuseumMUSEUM

(%6979149719; www.warmuseumaskifou.com; h 8am-7pm Mon-Sat)F

Signs direct you to the small museum displaying the extensive gun and military odds-and-ends collection of the Hatzidakis family, who are happy to show you around.

4Sleeping & Eating

For a glimpse of traditional Sfakiot village life, seek out the small square flanked by kafeneia and statues of local resistance heroes. Just above the small square you’ll probably see black-clad gents under the mulberry tree. You can normally get a simple meal of local sausage and Sfakiani pita, or at weekends traditional wild goat or lamb tsigariasto (sautéed) or vrasto (boiled), charged by the kilo – and lots of raki.

Lefkoritis ResortRESORT€€

(%28250 95455; www.lefkoritis.com; apt €65-95; pisc)

This massive stone retreat with a taverna and large swimming pool operates year-round. Its tastefully furnished apartments sleep up to six and enjoy sweeping views of the surrounding mountains. It offers child-friendly activities such as horse and pony riding, along with mountain biking.

8Getting There & Away

Askyfou (€6.20) is on the Hania to Hora Sfakion KTEL (www.bus-service-crete-ktel.com) bus route.

Imbros Gorge Φαράγγι Ιμπρου

Half the length of its illustrious sister at Samaria, the 8km-long Imbros Gorge (admission €2; hyear-round), 57km south of Hania, is no less beautiful and a lot less busy, especially in the afternoon. The hike takes you past 300m-high walls buttressed by cypresses, holm oaks, fig and almond trees and redolent sage. Landmarks include the narrowest point of the ravine (near the 4.5km mark), which is just 2m wide, and a giant arch 2km from the southern end.

Most people begin the walk in the mountain village of Imbros and then hike down to the southern coastal village of Komitades. But it's possible to park at either and taxi (€22) or bus between. Both villages serve gorge hikers and have minimarkets and tavernas. In Imbros, you’ll find the well-marked entrance to the gorge next to Porofarango taverna on the road to Hora Sfakion. Hania’s EOS has more information on gorge hikes.

4Sleeping & Eating

Imbros village has no hotels.

Villa ArchodikoVILLA€€

(%28310 55289; www.marybeach.gr; per night from €180; aW)

Villa Archodiko is a full house for rent which can sleep up to eight.

PorofarangoTAVERNA€

(mains €7-10; hnoon-10pm)

At the start of the gorge in Imbros village, the friendly family taverna Porofarango has a big balcony with great panoramic views of the gorge and serves good-value Cretan cuisine and generous raki. The meat is usually the taverna’s own and it often has wild goat. Try the special pork tsigariasto (stew).

8Getting There & Away

There are three daily buses from Hania to Hora Sfakion (€7.60, one hour 40 minutes), which stop at Imbros. The southern end of the gorge path ends at Komitades, served by two buses to Hora Sfakionfrom; or, walk 5km or take a taxi to Hora Sfakion (€22).

Frangokastello Φραγγοκαστέλλο

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Marked by a striking 14th-century fortress, Frangokastello is a low-key resort 15km east of Hora Sfakion, with a fabulous wide and sandy beach that slopes gradually into shallow warm water, making it ideal for kids. There’s no actual village, just a few tavernas, small markets, a gas station, and low-rise holiday apartments and rooms scattered along the main street. Development has been kept to a minimum with most accommodation set back from the shore, leaving the natural beauty largely untouched. In summer, occasional concerts and folk dance performances are held.

1Sights

FrangokastelloRUIN

(Frankish Castle; GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child €1.50/free; h10am-7pm Apr-Oct or Nov)

Frangokastello is a ruined 14th-century fortress, constructed soon after the Fourth Crusade (1204) by the Venetians, who sought a stronghold against pirates and Sfakiot warriors. The legendary Ioannis Daskalogiannis, who led a disastrous rebellion against Ottoman oppression in 1770, was persuaded to surrender at the fortress but was later flayed alive by the Turks. On 17 May 1828, 385 Cretan rebels made a last stand here in one of the bloodiest battles of the war for independence. About 800 Turks were killed along with the rebels.

Legend has it that at dawn each anniversary their ghosts, the drosoulites, can be seen marching along the beach. The name comes from the Greek word drosia meaning ‘moisture’, which may refer to the dawn moisture during the hours when the ghosts are said to appear.

Orthi Ammos BeachBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Adjoining the Frangokastello fortress is the stunning Orthi Ammos beach, a long stretch of fine sand with shallow, warm waters. It is blissful and child-friendly, unless (as is frequently the case) the wind whips up the sand and forces you to retreat into the nearby cafe.

4Sleeping

Accommodation is mostly designed for longer stays and is reasonably good value, especially a bit further from the beach across the east–west road.

MilosAPARTMENT€

(%28250 92162; www.milos-sfakia.com; r €45-55, apt €70; paWc)

A renovated, century-old stone windmill (mylos in Greek), turned into an apartment on a pretty spot on the beach, is the most captivating of several atmospheric rooms and studios. Four stone cottages sit under the tamarisk trees, and modern well-equipped studios are nearby. To stay in the mill in high season book ahead. There’s also a good taverna.

Stavris StudiosAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %28250 92250; www.studios-stavris-frangokastello-crete.com; studio/2-bedroom apt from €35/60; hApr-Oct; paWc)

This collection of 24 studios and apartments is great value, especially considering its position smack on the beach. Studios have kitchenettes, balconies and sea views. There is a leafy garden and big open area for kids to run around in, and the owners are happy to advise about local activities.

Fata MorganaAPARTMENT€

(%28250 92077; www.fatamorgana-kreta.com; studio €40-60; paWc)

Set among an olive grove above Orthi Ammos beach, this simple complex has a range of fully equipped, but a bit old-fashioned, studios and larger apartments for families, as well as two cosy mock castles. There’s a playground and a chook/bird pen to amuse the kids.

5Eating

Oasis TavernaCRETAN€

(%28250 92136; www.oasisrooms.com; mains €6-8; hlunch & dinner; iW)

Part of an excellent family-run studio and apartment complex at the western end of the beach, this is the best place to eat. The taverna’s well-executed Cretan specials include a delicious kreatopita (meat and cheese pie). The spacious apartments (€50 to €60) have full-sized kitchens, are set in a lovely garden, and you can walk to a quiet stretch of beach.

Taverna Babis & PopiTAVERNA€

(%28250 92092; www.babis-popi.de; mains €5-7; hlunch & dinner)

This taverna serves decent, good-value meals under a shady vine canopy tucked behind the family’s rooms and minimarket.

8Getting There & Away

KTEL buses stop at several spots along the main road. To/from Hania there’s one daily bus (€8.40, 2½ hours). For Rethymno, change at Vryses. In summer, two daily buses from Hora Sfakion to Plakias stop at Frangokastello (€2, 25 minutes).

Hora Sfakion Χώρα Σφακίων

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The more bullet holes you see in the passing road signs, the closer you are to Hora Sfakion (ho-ra sfa-kee-on), long renowned in Cretan history for its rebellious streak against foreign occupiers. But don’t worry, the pint-sized fishing village is an amiable, if eccentric, place that caters well to today’s foreign visitors – many of whom are Samaria Gorge hikers stumbling off the Agia Roumeli boat on their way back to Hania.

Most pause here only long enough to catch the next bus out, but the village, the main town in the region, and the only one with an ATM, can be a relaxing stay for a few days and is the access point to several beaches, including the isolated Sweetwater and Ilingas Beaches to the west. Ilingas is a small scrim of grey-sand beach backed by craggy mountains. Hora Sfakion is also convenient for ferrying westward to other hamlets and Paleohora, or for catching a ferry to Gavdos Island.

Hora Sfakion gift shops stock books about local traditions, linguistics and local cookery.

History

Under Venetian and Turkish rule Hora Sfakion was an important maritime centre and (with the upland regional capital of Anopoli) the nucleus of the Cretan struggle for independence. The Turks inflicted severe reprisals on the town’s inhabitants for their rebelliousness in the 19th century, after which the town fell into an economic slump that lasted until the arrival of tourism several decades ago. Hora Sfakion played a prominent role during WWII when thousands of Allied troops were evacuated by sea from the town after the Battle of Crete. Today, a memorial to the last British, Australian and New Zealand soldiers evacuated after the battle stands on the eastern bluff over the town.

1Sights & Activities

Bungee jump off the Aradena bridge over the Aradena Gorge, northwest of town.

Vrissi BeachBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

Abutting the western edge of town, tiny grey-sand Vrissi Beach makes for an easy dive or sunset viewing.

Sweetwater BeachBEACH

(Glyka Nera)

West of Hora Sfakion, lovely Sweetwater Beach is accessible by a small daily ferry (May to October, per person €4), by taxi boat (one-way/return €20/30) or on foot via a stony and partly vertiginous one-hour coastal path starting at the first hairpin turn of the Anopoli road. A small cafe rents umbrellas and sun chairs.

Notos Mare Diving CentreDIVING

(%6947270106; www.notosmare.com; 1 dive from €49)

Offers dives and certifications for beginners and experienced divers, as well as snorkelling and boat excursions along the south coast.

Yoga on CreteYOGA

(%6937363890, 28250 91109; www.yogaoncrete.gr; hJun-Sep)

Warm and welcoming Eugenia Sivitou runs excellent all-inclusive weeklong yoga retreats and seminars (from €590) in different disciplines with teachers from all over the world. Offers a work-exchange option (€490).

4Sleeping

Xenia HotelHOTEL€

(%28250 91490; www.sfakia-xenia-hotel.gr; d incl breakfast €55; aW)

The best-value, and best-located, rooms in town are to be found at this refurbished hotel well positioned at the western edge overlooking the water. The 21 rooms have mod cons such as air-con, satellite TV and a fridge.

Hotel StavrisHOTEL€

(%28250 91220; www.hotel-stavris-sfakia-crete.com; s/d/tr from €30/35/40; aW)

Up the steps at the western end of the port, this long-running place owned by the Perrakis clan has clean, basic rooms – some with kitchenettes and fridges and harbour-facing balconies. Rooms vary; aim for the renovated main building.

Lefka OriHOTEL€

(%28250 91209; www.chora-sfakion.com; s/d €25/35; aW)

This long-established little hotel on the western end of the port has 10 rooms and two studios with kitchenettes, all clean and well kept, though fairly basic. Avoid the sub-par taverna below.

5Eating

Be sure to try the local Sfakiani pita – this thin, circular pancake filled with sweet myzithra (sheep’s-milk cheese) and flecked with honey makes a great breakfast when served with a bit of Greek yoghurt on the side.

oNikosTAVERNA€

(%28250 91111; mains €5-12; h8am-midnight)

Hora Sfakion’s best harbour-front taverna stands out for its friendly, family-run service, special care with all of its dishes and top Sfakiani pita, and it’s always fun to have the grilled garlic bread, which is usually thrown in for free. Mains run from seafood to traditional Greek taverna fare and Cretan specialities like smoked pork or sautéed snails.

Three BrothersTAVERNA€

(www.three-brothers-chora-sfakion-crete.com; Vrissi Beach; mains €5-12; h8am-midnight; W)

The menu features all the staples, but it’s the location overlooking Vrissi Beach that sets this taverna apart from the others in the harbour. It’s especially crowded when Giannis fires up the barbecue. Great at sunset. Rooms for rent too (doubles from €35).

DelfiniSEAFOOD€€

(%20250 91002; www.chorasfakion.com; mains €6-15, fish per kg €40-55)

Among the row of seafront tavernas, Delfini is recommended for fresh fish dishes.

8Information

Hora Sfakion has two petrol stations and one ATM. The post office is on the square, opposite the police station.

The small Hora Sfakion Tourist Kiosk (www.chora-sfakion.com; h9am-2pm & 5-7pm Easter-Sep) near the entrance to the harbour has maps and transport info in high season.

8Getting There & Away

Boat

The ferry quay is around the point on the eastern edge of the village harbour. Hora Sfakion is the western terminus for the south-coast Anendyk (%28210 95511; www.anendyk.gr) ferry route to/from Paleohora via Loutro, Agia Roumeli and Sougia, and also has boats to Gavdos Island.

Buy tickets at the ticket booth (%28250 91221) on the eastern edge of the harbour. Schedules vary seasonally, so always check ahead. Often boats only run as far as Agia Roumeli, where you must change for a boat to Sougia (€14) and Paleohora (€17, three hours). In low season, it is usually impossible to ferry a car all the way to Paleohora, as some of the boats are passenger-only.

From June through August there are three daily boats from Hora Sfakion to Agia Roumeli (€11, one hour) via Loutro (€5, 15 minutes). There are four additional boats to Loutro only. There are two to three boats per week to/from Gavdos Island (€17, 1½ hours).

Boat taxis (%6978645212) serve the coast around Hora Sfakion. Private hire to Sweetwater beach is €20, and from May to September set group taxi departures cost €4 per person.

Bus

AKTEL Buses (www.e-ktel.com) leave from the square up the hill above the municipal car park. Schedules change seasonally; check online. In summer there are three daily services to Hania (€7.60, two hours); to reach Rethymno change in Vryses (€7.30, one hour). The last bus tends to wait for the boat from Agia Roumeli. There are also two to three daily buses to Frangokastello (€2, 25 minutes) and one daily to Anopoli/Aradena (€2, 30 minutes) in summer.

Car

The municipal car park (€3 per day Easter to October) is at the entrance to town; there’s also parking near the ferry quay.

Sfakia ToursTOURIST INFORMATION

(%28250 91272; www.sfakia-tours.com; h9am-1.30pm & 4-9pm)

Sfakia Tours, next to the post office, has hire cars and can help with accommodation.

Around Hora Sfakion

The forbidding, rocky moonscape of Inner Sfakia rises up from the sea behind Hora Sfakion. Although now almost unpopulated due to past clan vendettas and emigration, it was in fact once a powerful provincial area teeming with life.

Anopoli Ανώπολη

A scenic, hair-raisingly steep 12km winding road west from Hora Sfakion takes you to Anopoli, a quiet village in a fertile plateau at the base of the Lefka Ori, with a memorial to resistance fighters in the main square. It was one of the few areas that did not fall to the Venetians or Turks. In earlier centuries, Anopoli was the Sfakiot capital, presiding over the regional port of Loutro (still accessible, albeit on an extremely steep path, by hikers).

Hearty lunches are served at Platanos (%28250 91169; www.anopoli-sfakia.com; mains €4-9), a restaurant on the main roundabout in Anopoli, known for its roast lamb and other local delicacies. The friendly English-speaking owner, Eva Kopasis, can also advise about hikes to Loutro and local beaches, and has rooms (doubles €33).

Don’t miss the delicious baked goods at Cretan Divine Family Bakery (%28250 91524; h8am-8pm daily), where friendly Angeliki serves up cookies, kalitsounia (Cretan cheese pies) and hot Greek coffee at wonderful outdoor tables with views around the plateau.

Aradena Gorge Φαράγγι Αράδαινας

The virtually abandoned stone hamlet of Aradena, about 2km west of Anopoli, is famous for the Vardinogiannis bridge, named for the wealthy local businessman who endowed it, which crosses over the Aradena Gorge. Look down into the depths in fascinated horror as the structure rattles under your wheels. At weekends you may see people jumping into the gorge from this bridge – at 138m, the highest bungee jumping bridge in Greece. Contact Liquid Bungy (%6937615191; www.bungy.gr; per jump €100; hnoon-6pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug, by appointment Jun & Sep) to join in.

At the kantina (small kiosk) next to the bridge you can get directions for the remote Church of Agios Ioannis, a whitewashed early-Byzantine structure. It’s only about a 15-minute walk (roughly 800m), but the church is rarely open. From it, however, begins a forking path down to the sea: the western fork leads to Agia Roumeli via the Byzantine Church of Agios Pavlos, the eastern to Marmara Beach with its brilliant teal waters.

The more-often-used Aradena Gorge hiking route to Marmara Beach goes through the gorge and is a 1½-hour (3.5km) trek of moderate difficulty. The trailhead is signposted before the bridge (when coming from Anopoli). From the beach, you can walk to the glittering nearby port of Loutro, with its creature comforts, and catch a ferry to get out.

Loutro Λουτρό

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A peaceful crescent of flower-festooned white-and-blue buildings hugging a narrow pebbly beach, the pint-sized fishing village of Loutro lies between Agia Roumeli and Hora Sfakion and is only accessible by boat and on foot. It’s the departure point for several coastal walks to isolated beaches, such as Finix (also spelled Phoenix; 1km west), Marmara Beach (5km west) and Sweetwater, 3.3km east. Ask locally for directions, hire a mini-canoe (per hr/day €5/15) from the Hotel Porto Loutro, or take a summer-only small boat. You can also explore the castle ruins on the point.

Loutro is the only natural harbour on the south coast of Crete, an advantage that made it strategically vital in ancient times when it was the port for Finix and Anopoli. St Paul is said to have been heading to Finix from here when he encountered a storm that blew him off course past Gavdos Island; the journey ended with him being shipwrecked in Malta.

Today it is a marvellous escape and a great base for exploring the south coast.

4Sleeping

Loutro has good budget accommodation, with most overlooking the cove, and each place has a taverna. Confirm whether they’ll accept credit cards as not all do.

Apartments NikiAPARTMENT€

(%28250 91213; www.loutro-accommodation.com; studio/apartment from €50/110; aW)

These beautifully furnished studios with beamed ceilings and stone floors accommodate two to four people. The three-bedroom villa-apartment is unique in Loutro: it houses up to six. Each has its own kitchenette, and since Niki is located just above the village, you get great views over the water from the balconies.

Blue HousePENSION€

(%28250 91035; www.bluehouse.loutro.gr; d €45-50; aW)

Midway along the white buildings lining the port, the Blue House has spacious, well-appointed rooms with big verandahs overlooking the water. The nicest rooms are in the refurbished top-floor section. The taverna downstairs serves excellent mayirefta (mains €5 to €7), including delicious boureki (Turkish-influenced filo pie) baked with zucchini, potato and goat’s cheese.

Rooms SofiaPENSION€

(%28250 91354; www.sofiarooms-loutro.gr; d/tr €35/45; hApr-Oct; aW)

Above the Sofia minimarket, one street back from the beach, these plain and clean rooms can be a bit cramped, but have a fridge and kettle. They share a verandah with sea and mountain views.

Hotel Porto LoutroHOTEL€€

(%28250 91433; www.hotelportoloutro.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast €55/65/75; hApr-Oct; aiW)

The Porto Loutro is the classiest hotel in town. Spread across three buildings, it offers rooms and studios that are simply decorated in understated island style. Two of the buildings are smack on the beachfront, the other has balconies overlooking the harbour. Does not accept children under age seven. No credit cards.

5Eating

Given the captive market, the tavernas that line the waterfront in Loutro are surprisingly good. Most display a wide range of mayirefta and you can’t miss the dazzling range of cakes and sweets.

NotosCRETAN€

(%28250 91501; http://notos.loutro.gr; dishes €2.50-7; hnoon-late)

Excellent mezedhes, set back from the beach. Order a range of small plates, like stuffed onions, and dig in.

PavlosTAVERNA€

(%28250 91336; www.pavlos.loutro.gr; mains €6-10; h11am-midnight)

Sit harbourside while feasting on all manner of freshly grilled meat and fish.

IliosSEAFOOD€€

(%28250 91160; www.iliosloutro.gr; mains €5-15; h8am-midnight; W)

Ilios is the best spot in town for fish and seafood, though it also offers a full range of Cretan classics and breakfast, too. Ilios also has rooms.

8Information

There’s no bank, ATM or post office, and many places do not accept credit cards (and there is no cash back option). Bring plenty of cash (the nearest ATM is in Hora Sfakion). There is internet access (per hour €4) at the Daskalogiannis Hotel.

8Getting There & Away

Loutro is on the Anendyk (www.anendyk.gr) Paleohora–Hora Sfakion boat routes. Boats dock in front of the Sifis Hotel. The ticket booth opens an hour before departures. Boats serve Hora Sfakion (€5, 15 minutes), Agia Roumeli (€6, 45 minutes) and occasionally Paleohora (€16, 2½ hours) and Sougia (€13, 1¾ hours), or you can change in Agia Roumeli to reach those ports. September to June, boats from Hora Sfakion to Gavdos Island also stop in Loutro.

High season taxi boats go to Sweetwater Beach (ferry/private €5/25, 15 minutes) and Hora Sfakion.

Agia Roumeli Αγία Ρουμελή

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The coastal hamlet of Agia Roumeli is a collection of tavernas and pensions serving Samaria Gorge hikers, since it is the southern terminus of the famous gorge hike. While not spectacular in itself, it is undoubtedly a divine sight for tired trekkers stumbling out of the canyon. Stop for a swim and lunch at this tiny beach settlement, or stay overnight, before catching a boat, which is the only way out.

The black pebble beach is pretty, but absorbs an exceptional amount of heat so becomes impossible to sit on for long unless you hire a beach umbrella and sun lounge (€6).

There are no tourist facilities or banks and ATMs, and not much to see, other than to walk up to the well-preserved ruins of the Venetian castle above the village (about 1km, or 30 minutes, one-way), or check out the Panagia church in the village, which has some surviving remnants of a Roman mosaic floor.

Agia Roumeli is also a good access point to the southern bits of Samaria Gorge, for families with small children or those eager to peer into the gorge a bit, rather than do the whole hike.

4Sleeping & Eating

Paralia Taverna & RoomsPENSION, TAVERNA€

(%28250 91408; www.taverna-paralia.com; d €35-40; aW)

Right on the waterfront, Paralia Taverna & Rooms offers excellent views, the best Cretan cuisine in town, cold beer and simple, clean rooms.

Calypso Hotel & TavernaHOTEL€

(%28250 91314; www.calypso.agiaroumeli.gr; s/d/tr from €25/35/45; aW)

Beachfront and well-established, Calypso offers tidy rooms with refrigerators, and a spacious taverna-bar (mains €5 to €11).

Artemis StudiosAPARTMENT€

(%28250 91225; www.agiaroumeli.com; s/d/tr €45/55/70; hApr-Oct; aWc)

Fifty metres from Agia Roumeli’s pebble beach, the family-run Artemis has 12 self-catering studios accommodating up to five people. It is a good bet if you want to be near the water and away from the crowds. The owners provide info on local hill walks too.

Gigilos Taverna & RoomsPENSION€

(%28250 91383; www.gigilos.gr; s/d/tr €25/35/40; a)

Right on the beach at the western end of the village, the best rooms are at the front, on the beach road. They are clean and nicely furnished, with decent new bathrooms and a communal fridge in the hall. The taverna, which serves good home-cooked Cretan fare, has a pleasant, huge, shady deck on the beach.

8Getting There & Away

The Anendyk boat ticket office (%28250 91251; www.anendyk.gr) is 50m inland from the ferry quay.

Served by the southern ferries on a seasonally changing schedule, you can head east to Loutro (€6, 45 minutes) and Hora Sfakion (€11, one hour) and connect with the last bus back to Hania. Or go west to Sougia (€9, 45 minutes) and Paleohora (€15, 1½ hours). Many Gavdos Island boats (€17.50) also call in here.

In high season, it is usually possible to time a round-trip from Hora Sfakion in order to visit Agia Roumeli as a day trip.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

REMOTE GORGE HIKES

Samaria Gorge isn’t western Crete’s only canyon worth conquering. For the gorges below, which are more remote, it’s always wise to go with a guide or with thorough pre-planning if you are an experienced trekker. Check in first with Hania’s EOS for advice on local conditions, water sources and lodgings, and pick up the Anavasi hiking maps, marked with GPS coordinates, trails and other key details, available in Hania bookshops. Find additional info at www.west-crete.com.

AAgia Irini Gorge More lush than most, ends 5km north of Sougia.

AImbros Gorge Half as long as Samaria and open year-round, ends at Komitades near Hora Sfakion.

AAradena Gorge Moderate-to-steep hike ends at Marmara Bay, 5km west of Loutro.

ATrypiti Gorge Tough and little visited, ends 12km east of Sougia. Guide essential.

AKlados Gorge This gorge, marked by its sheer and unforgiving rock face, runs between and parallel to Samaria and Trypiti Gorges. This is the place to go for serious rock climbers; it offers great abseiling (rappelling) too. It lets out on the barren south coast. Mountaineers only.

Sougia Σούγια

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Sougia (soo-yah), 67km south of Hania and on the Hora Sfakion–Paleohora ferry route, is one of the most laid-back and refreshingly undeveloped beach resorts along the southern coast. It lies at the foot of a narrow, twisting road that deters most tour buses. Cafes, bars and tavernas line a tamarisk-shaded waterfront promenade while most lodging options enjoy a quieter inland setting. Sougia was once a popular hippie hang-out and many nostalgic ex-hippies return each year. It retains its chilled-out atmosphere and there is little to do other than relax or take nearby gorge hikes, or the walk to ancient Lissos.

Sougia’s tranquillity has been preserved largely because archaeological remains on the eastern edge of the beach prohibit development. The ancient town of Sougia was on the western side of the existing modern village. It flourished under the Romans and Byzantines when it was the port for Elyros, an important inland city (now gone). A 6th-century basilica contained a fine mosaic floor that is now in Hania’s Archaeological Museum.

1Sights & Activities

Sougia has a lovely 1km-long grey sand-and-pebble beach, but its drop-off is quick, so it’s not the best swimming spot for families with small children (seek shallower waters at Frangokastello, Paleohora and Elafonisi).

Like most southern coast villages, it’s also great hiking territory. A taxi to the Samaria Gorge trailhead is €60, but with a day or two advance notice, staff at the taxi kiosk can put together a pool of hikers to share the cost.

oAgia Irini GorgeHIKING

(admission €1.50; hyear-round)

Pretty Agia Irini Gorge starts some 13km north of Sougia. The 7km well-maintained trail (with a 500m elevation drop) brings you through redolent and varied verdure, plus a few caves hidden in the gorge walls. You’ll emerge at excellent Taverna Oasis (%28230 51121; mains €6-10; hlunch & dinner Apr-Oct), from where it’s another 7km walk via a quiet, paved road (or a €15 taxi ride) to Sougia.

Of course, it’s also possible to do the hike in reverse. To trek without a tour, take the Omalos bus from Paleohora or the Hania bus from Sougia, and get off at Agia Irini.

Trypiti GorgeHIKING

Little-visited Trypiti Gorge near Mt Gingilos is one of Crete’s most strenuous and longest, starting from Omalos and ending on the southern coast 12km east of Sougia at Cape Trypiti. You will have blissfully little company on the 10-hour jaunt, making Trypiti great for those seeking unspoilt nature and solitude. But the trail is difficult and you should be with a guide, and equipped with maps, water and food.

4Sleeping

A small settlement of campers and nudists sometimes crop up at the eastern end of the beach.

Aretousa Studios & RoomsAPARTMENT€

(%28230 51178; s/d/studio €35/40/45; hApr-Oct; paWc)

This lovely pension on the road to Hania, 200m from the sea, has bright and comfortable refurbished rooms and studios, most with kitchenettes. There’s a relaxing garden and playground for kids out back.

Rooms RirikaPENSION€

(%28230 51167; www.sougia.info/hotels/ririka; d €45; aW)

This cosy place consists of eight double rooms with a leafy garden, just up from the eastern side of the beach.

Santa Irene Apartments & StudiosAPARTMENT€€

(%28230 51342; www.santa-irene.gr; apt €60-80; hlate Mar-early Nov; paWc)

This smart hotel on the beach has airy rooms with marble floors, TV and kitchenettes, while there are also two family apartments (€80 to €90) with baby cots available. Prices drop dramatically in low season.

Syia HotelHOTEL€€

(%28230 51174; www.syiahotel.com; studio/apt incl breakfast from €70/90; paW)

This professionally run family hotel is as fancy as things get in laid-back Sougia. Set in a quiet garden environment, units have plenty of elbow room along with a balcony, contemporary furnishings and full kitchens with upmarket appliances.

5Eating

Taverna RembetikoCRETAN€

(%28230 51510; dishes €5-9; hnoon-late; v)

On the road to Hania, this popular taverna serving mezedhes is a great place for a quick snack or a varied meal at good prices. Friendly owners offer an extensive menu of Cretan dishes like bourekia (filo pies shaped into thin long rolls, batons and pinwheels) and stuffed zucchini flowers. Good vegetarian options too.

PolyfimosTAVERNA€

(%28230 51343; mains €5-8; hlunch & dinner; Wv)

Tucked away off the Hania road behind the police station, ex-hippie Yianni makes his own oil, wine and raki and even makes dolmadhes (vine leaves stuffed with rice) from the grapevines covering the shady courtyard.

oOmikronINTERNATIONAL€€

(%28230 51492; mains €5-14; h8am-late; Wv)

At this elegantly rustic lair, Jean-Luc Delfosse has forged his own culinary path in a refreshing change from taverna staples. Mushroom crêpes to Flammekuche (Alsatian-style pizza), seafood pasta to pepper steak – it's all fresh, creative and delicious.

KymaSEAFOOD€€

(%28230 51688; mains €6-17; hnoon-late)

Near the waterfront T-junction with the Hania road, you’ll know Kyma by the fish tank in front. It’s known for its seafood, supplied by the owner’s brother, and the restaurant raises its own meat. Try the goat tsigariasto (sautéed) in wine sauce or the rabbit stifadho. Fried kalamari or the langoustine spaghetti (€70 per kilogram) are top seafood picks.

3Entertainment

Sougia has two summer-only open-air clubs that can get surprisingly lively (after midnight) for such a small town. Alabama (h11pm-late Jun-Sep), on the eastern side of the beach, is the age-old favourite, while Fortuna (%6977423023; h11pm-7am Jun-Sep), on the left before the entrance to the town, is a great place for a late-night drink. Both kick off after midnight.

8Information

There is no ATM, bank or petrol station; Paleohora has those. Visit www.sougia.info for area information.

8Getting There & Away

Boat

Sougia is on the Anendyk (%28230 51230; www.anendyk.gr) Paleohora–Hora Sfakion boat route. In high season, daily boats serve Agia Roumeli (€9, 45 minutes), Loutro (€13, 1½ hours) and Hora Sfakion (€14, 1¾ hours) to the east and Paleohora (€9, 50 minutes) to the west. Twice-weekly boats from Paleohora to Gavdos Island (€18 from Sougia) pass through as well.

Captain George’s Water Taxi (%6947605802) serves the coast near Sougia.

Bus & Car

There’s no petrol station in Sougia. There is one road into Sougia and the bus drops you on the coastal road near the T-junction. Buy tickets at Roxane’s minimarket, nearby.

In high season, two to three daily buses (www.e-ktel.com) connect Hania and Sougia (€7.10, one hour 50 minutes), and can stop at Agia Irini to let off gorge hikers. There are also thrice-weekly buses to Paleohora and daily buses to Omalos in high season only.

Various taxi drivers (%6972370480, 6977745160, 28230 51362; www.taxi-selino.com) serve Sougia, and have a central kiosk on the waterfront.

Lissos Λισσός

LissosRUIN

The ruins of ancient Lissos are a 3.5km walk from Sougia on the coastal path to Paleohora, which starts at the far end of Sougia’s small port. The only other option is to take a water taxi to the nearby cove and hike up.

Lissos arose under the Dorians, flourished under the Byzantines and was destroyed by the Saracens in the 9th century. A port for inland Elyros (now gone), it was part of a league of city-states, led by ancient Gortyna, which minted its own gold coins inscribed with the word ‘Lission’.

At one time there was a reservoir, a theatre and hot springs, but these have not yet been excavated. Most of what you see dates from the 1st through 3rd centuries BC, when Lissos was known for its curative springs. The 3rd-century-BC Temple of Asklepion was built next to one of the springs and named after the Greek god of healing, Asclepius.

Excavations here uncovered a headless statue of Asclepius, along with 20 other statue fragments now in Hania’s Archaeological Museum. You can still see the marble altar base that supported the statue next to the pit in which sacrifices were placed. The other notable feature is the mosaic floor of multicoloured stones intricately arranged in beautiful geometric shapes and images of birds. On the way down to the sea there are traces of Roman ruins, and on the western slopes of the valley are unusual barrel-vaulted tombs.

Nearby are the ruins of two early Christian basilicas – Agios Kyriakos and the Panagia – dating from the 13th century.

Lissos has a lovely beach to cool off at after the walk, and if you come on 15 July you will stumble on the annual festival, held in honour of Agios Kyriakos.

Paleohora Παλαιόχωρα

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Appealing, laid-back and full of character, Paleohora (pal-ee-oh-hor-a) lies on a narrow peninsula flanked by long, curving tamarisk-shaded and sandy Pahia Ammos beach (Sandy Beach; MAP GOOGLE MAP ) on one side, and pebbly Halikia beach (Pebble Beach; MAP GOOGLE MAP ) on the other. Shallow waters and general quietude also make the town a good choice for families with small children. The most picturesque part of Paleohora is the maze of narrow streets around the castle. Tavernas spill out onto the pavement and occasional cultural happenings, as well as Cretan and international music, inject a lively ambience. In spring and autumn, Paleohora attracts many walkers. It’s also the only beach town in Crete that does not go into total hibernation in winter.

1Sights

Venetian CastleCASTLE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP )F

It’s worth clambering up the ruins of the 13th-century Venetian castle for the splendid view of the sea and mountains. The fortress was built so the Venetians could monitor the southwestern coast from this commanding position on the hilltop. There’s not much left of the castle, as it was destroyed by the Venetians, the Turks, the pirate Barbarossa in the 16th century, and the Germans during WWII.

Museum of the Acritans of EuropeMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28230 42265; h10am-1pm Mon-Fri)F

This little museum next to the town’s ornate church is dedicated to the border fighters and heroes of Europe’s medieval and Byzantine times. It has a well-displayed historical exhibition along with musical instruments, weapons and other items from the period.

Paleohora

1Sights

1Halikia BeachD2

2Museum of the Acritans of EuropeC4

3Pahia AmmosA3

4Venetian CastleC4

4Sleeping

5CoraliD2

6Homestay AnonymousC2

7Libyan PrincessD1

8Villa AnnaB1

5Eating

9Third EyeB3

10Vakakis Family BakeryC3

6Drinking & Nightlife

11AgiosC3

12La JeteeA1

13Nostos ClubC2

3Entertainment

14Open-Air CinemaB1

2Activities

There are several great walking trails nearby. From Paleohora, a six-hour walk along a scenic coastal path leads to Sougia, passing ancient Lissos. An easier inland loop goes to Anydri then through small, lush Anydri Gorge to the sea.

When a stiff summer breeze is blowing, windsurfing off sandy Pahia Ammos is excellent. Private dolphin-spotting trips are also run from Paleohora.

PALEOHORA–SOUGIA COASTAL WALK

From the town centre of Paleohora, follow signs to the camp sites to the northeast. Turn right at the intersection with the road to Anydri and soon you’ll be following the coastal path marked as the E4 European Footpath. After a couple of kilometres, the path climbs steeply for a beautiful view back to Paleohora. You’ll pass Anydri Beach and several inviting coves where people may be getting an all-over tan. Take a dip because the path soon turns inland to pass over Cape Flomes. You’ll walk along a plateau carpeted with brush that leads towards the coast and some breathtaking views over the Libyan Sea. Soon you’ll reach the Dorian site of Lissos. After Lissos the path takes you through a pine forest. The road ends at Sougia Harbour. The 14.5km walk (allow about six hours) is nearly shadeless, so take several litres of water and sunscreen. From June through August, it’s best to start at sunrise in order to get to Sougia before the heat of the day. You can boat back.

TTours

You can hike Samaria and Agia Irini Gorges from Paleohora, either with local organised tours or by using taxis or the KTEL bus service to reach the trailheads, then returning by ferry from the trails’ coastal end-points (at Agia Roumeli, for Samaria Gorge, and Sougia for Agia Irini).

Mid-May to October you can take a day trip to Elafonisi by boat. Tickets are sold at Selino Travel, which also offers other excursions.

4Sleeping

oJoanna’s PlaceAPARTMENT€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %28230 41801; www.joanna-place.com; studio €45-55; hApr-Nov; paW)

This charmer sits in a quiet spot across from a small stone beach at the southeastern tip of the peninsula. Spacious and spotless studios are outfitted with locally made furniture, and there’s a kitchenette for preparing breakfast to enjoy on your balcony.

Homestay AnonymousPENSION€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28230 42098; www.anonymoushomestay.com; s/d/tr/2-bedroom apt €25/30/35/55; aWc)

This simple but good-value pension with private bathrooms and shared cooking facilities in the courtyard garden is a good bet. Friendly, well-travelled owner Manolis cultivates a welcoming atmosphere and is a mine of information on local activities. The rooms are clean and tastefully furnished, in a quaint stone building, though a bit cramped. Rooms can connect to accommodate families.

Oriental Bay RoomsPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %28230 41076; www.orientalbay.gr; s/d/tr €30/35/50; aW)

These immaculate rooms in a large modern building at the northern end of Halikia beach have balconies with sea or mountain views and come with kettle and fridge.

Villa AnnaPENSION€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %2810 346428; www.villaanna-paleochora.com; apt €50-80; aWc)

Set in a lovely shady garden bordered by tall poplars, these well-appointed, family-friendly apartments can sleep up to five people. There are cots, and swings and a sandpit in the garden, and the grounds are fenced.

Camping PaleohoraCAMPGROUND€

(%28230 41120; www.campingpaleochora.gr; camp sites per adult/child/tent €6/3.50/5; W)

This large campground is 1.5km northeast of the town, about 500m east of the stony Halikia beach. There is a taverna and it is near the sea, but there’s no minimarket, and facilities in general are a bit run-down. You can hire tents (small/large €6/10).

oCoraliAPARTMENT€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6974361868; www.corali-studios.com; d studio from €65; aiW)

A friendly Greek-Italian family runs these immaculate studios which are a distinct cut above standard studios for rent. A series of luxe studios with kitchenettes and waterfront balconies are kitted out with top-end modern furniture and large pristine bathrooms. Some come with computers in the room. The central location and water views are excellent.

Libyan PrincessHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28230 42030; www.libyanprincess.gr; d incl breakfast from €100; aiWs)

This full-service hotel is Paleohora’s highest-end option. Thirty-three rooms and one executive suite curl around a sparkling pool and boast all the mod cons from flat-screen TV and phone to safe and tea- and coffee-making facilities. There’s a gym and massage service as well. Downside: it’s on the busy main street.

5Eating

Paleohora has good Cretan restaurants and the olive oil produced in this region is among the best in Greece. In summer, little tavernas spill onto the pedestrian-only central street and make for great ambience. In the Paleohora region, the excellent myzithra cheese is generally unsweetened, unlike the sweetened myzithra usually served elsewhere in Crete.

Third EyeVEGETARIAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28230 41234; www.thethirdeye-paleochora.com; mains €6-7; h8.30am-3pm & 5.30-11pm; Wv)

A local institution, the Third Eye, Crete’s only vegetarian restaurant, has an eclectic menu of curries, salads, pastas, and Greek and Asian dishes. There’s live music weekly in summer. The restaurant is just inland from sandy Pahia Ammos.

Christos TavernaCRETAN€

(%28230 41359; www.christospaleochora.com; mains €6-10; hnoon-late May-Oct)

Straightforward Cretan and Greek dishes are the order of the day in this long-standing summer-only taverna near the stony Halikia beach. Pick from what’s fresh, arrayed in casseroles behind the glass.

Vakakis Family BakeryBAKERY€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28230 41850; baked goods from €1; h7am-late)

Load up on fresh bread and sweet treats paired with hot or iced coffees.

oMethexisCRETAN€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %28230 41431; www.methexistaverna.com; mains €6-15; h12.30pm-11.30pm Tue-Sun, later Jul & Aug; Wv)

It’s well worth the short saunter to the peninsula’s southeastern tip to sample the authentic comfort food and warm hospitality at this locally adored taverna across from a small beach. All the classics are here along with such surprises as the meat-free and superb chestnut stifado (stew), salt cod with garlic sauce, and other Cretan delicacies.

6Drinking & Entertainment

AgiosBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28230 41258; www.agiosbar.gr; hnoon-late year-round)

Casual lounge, bar and music venue, Agios is one of Paleohora’s best hang-outs.

Nostos ClubCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h6pm-2am Apr-Oct)

Nostos Club has an outdoor terrace bar and a small indoor club playing Greek and Western music.

La JeteeBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; h9am-2am May-Sep; W)

A beachside tourist haunt known for its cocktails, La Jetee has a lovely garden and sunset views, plus snacks (€2.50 to €5) are served all day.

Open-Air CinemaCINEMA

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; hJun-Sep)

Three nights a week in summer, films (usually in English and subtitled in Greek) are screened at Paleohora’s outdoor cinema.

8Information

Paleohora has an attractive seafront promenade and it, along with the main road (Venizelou), are cut off to traffic May to September. There are petrol stations and ATMs on Venizelou. Stock up before heading to places like Sougia, which have neither.

Post OfficePOST OFFICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; h7am-2pm Mon-Fri)

Just across from Pahia Ammos (sandy beach).

Selino TravelTRAVEL AGENCY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %28230 42272; selino2@otenet.gr; Kondekaki; 3hr trip €18; h8am-1.30pm & 6-9.30pm Apr-Oct, shorter hours rest of year)

General information, boat and airline tickets and excursions, including to the gorges of Samaria and Agia Irini. Mid-May to October they offer a daily boat to Elafonisi beach on the western coast.

Tourist KioskTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %28230 41507; h10am-1pm & 6-9pm Wed-Mon May-Oct)

On the beach road near the ferry quay with basic brochures.

Tsiskakis TravelTRAVEL AGENCY

( GOOGLE MAP ; %28230 42110; www.notoscar.com; Eleftheriou Venizelou 53; h9am-1pm & 5-9pm)

Organises rental cars and local tours and excursions, including Samaria, Agia Irini and Ardena Gorges.

8Getting There & Away

Boat

Boats leave from the quay at the far southern end of Halikia pebble beach. Buy tickets for all boats at Selino Travel.

From mid-May to late October an excursion boat serves the west-coast beach of Elafonisi (adult/child one-way €9/4.50, one hour) once daily, weather permitting.

Paleohora is the westernmost stop on the Anendyk (www.anendyk.gr) south coast boat routes. Schedules change seasonally; always check ahead online or at local travel agencies. Ferries go east to Sougia (€9, 50 minutes) and Agia Roumeli (€15, 1½ hours), where you can change for a boat to Loutro (€16, 2½ hours) and Hora Sfakion (€17, three hours). Usually you cannot take a car the whole way as some of the boats carry passengers only. Three times per week in summer a ferry goes to Gavdos Island (€19, 2½ hours).

Bus

Buses from the KTEL bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ; %28230 41914; www.e-ktel.com) go on ever-changing schedules to Hania (€7.60, 1¾ hours, three to four daily). In summer one daily service, departing 6.15am, goes to Omalos (€6.40, two hours), for Samaria Gorge, and also stops at the entrance to Agia Irini Gorge (€4.50). Also in summer, thrice-weekly buses serve Sougia and Elafonisi.

Car

Do not attempt to drive the route to Elafonisi that was once signposted from Grameno (5km west of Paleohora). The road becomes impassable after Maniatiana village except for the most rugged 4WD.

Notos Rentals ( GOOGLE MAP ; %28230 42110; www.notoscar.com; Eleftheriou Venizelou 53; h8am-10pm) has cars, motorcycles and bicycles for hire.

8Getting Around

Paleochora TaxiTAXI

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6979594667, 28230 41128; www.paleochora-taxi.com)

Get a ride to gorge trailheads or remote beaches.

Around Paleohora

The hills around Paleohora offer excellent walking, some along the coastal E4 and some through verdant small gorges. Loop from Paleohora to Anydri and back, or go (by taxi) to Azogires and hike down to Anydri and back. Maps are available in Paleohora shops.

Anydri Άνυδροι

The village of Anydri, 5km northeast of Paleohora, is a popular destination for walkers and is reached via a picturesque drive or walk through the lush Anydri Gorge carved by a small stream. The founding fathers of the village were two brothers from Hora Sfakion fleeing a murderous vendetta, which is why most villagers have the same surname. A path from the village leads to the Church of Agios Georgios, which has 14th-century frescoes.

2Activities

Anydri GorgeHIKING

A popular, beautiful circuit route leads from Paleohora to Anydri then down Anydri Gorge to return along the coast.

From Paleohora, take the road that goes past the campground and follow the paved road that forks off to the left, which is bordered by steep rocks. As you enter Anydri village you’ll see a sign directing you to Anydri Gorge. After a few hundred metres on a footpath you’ll encounter an overgrown path on the left. Red markers direct you to the gorge.

After walking along the dried-out riverbed, signs direct you to wide Gialiskari Beach at the end of the gorge. The nicest stretch is the area with coarse sand at the eastern end, left of the kantina. You can take a different path back to Paleohora following the E4 markers, which will take you along the coastal cliffs. The beach is also accessible by a drivable dirt road, from where it is signposted to the right, well before the gorge.

4Sleeping & Eating

Christos PlaceCOTTAGES€€

(%28230 41330; www.christosplace.gr; cottage €80-130; paW)

Just opened in 2015, these lovely small cottages in an olive grove above Anydri house three to five people and have a kitchenette, private terrace and satellite TV. Note: showers are outdoors. Views sweep to the Libyan Sea.

oTo SkolioMEZEDHES€

(%28230 83001; dishes €3-7; hfrom 9am for coffee, noon-11pm for food daily Easter-Sep, Wed-Sun Oct-Easter)

Whether gorge walker or hire-car driver, do not miss the chance to dine at wonderful To Skolio. ‘The School’ is in a converted schoolhouse, and cheerily painted tables fill a shady cliff-side courtyard with grand valley views. Menus of mezedhes rotate with the season, incorporating the best local produce. Though prices are low, portions are huge.

Dishes might be aubergine rolls with feta, fennel pie or heaping salads, and the homemade sweets such as cheesecake (€2.50) are divine.

Azogires Αζογυρές

An eccentric hill village 9km north of Paleohora, Azogires and its sylvan valley are the place of legends involving river Nereids in its waterfalls and medieval ascetics who inhabited cave dwellings. Both the waterfalls and the caves can be visited today, and a handy local map lists these and other attractions.

Maps, more info and good food and drink can be found at Alpha Restaurant (mains €4-7; hlunch & dinner). There, American-born local guide Lakkis ‘Lucky’ Koukoutsakis leads tours of the village and Azogires Gorge. Or you can walk on your own down the gorge to join up with the Anydri Gorge trail.

Elafonisi Ελαφονήσι

Tucked into Crete’s southwest corner, this symphony of fine pink-white sand, turquoise water and gentle rose dunes looks like a magical dreamscape. As the azure water swirls across the sands, prismatic rainbows shimmer across the surface. Off the long, wide strand of Elafonisi beach lies Elafonisi Islet, occasionally connected by a thin sandy isthmus, which creates a lovely double-beach, but otherwise easily reached by wading through 50m of knee-deep water. The islet is marked by low dunes and a string of semi-secluded coves that attract a sprinkling of naturists. A walk to its high point offers mind-blowing views of the beaches, sea and raw mountainscape. The entire area is part of Natura 2000, the environmental protection program of the EU.

Alas, this natural gem is hardly a secret and less than idyllic in high summer when hundreds of umbrellas and lounge chairs (€7) clog the beach (dash out to the island where you can find peace). The invasion puts enormous pressure on this delicate ecosystem and on the minimal infrastructure, especially the toilets. Come early or late in the day or, better yet, stay overnight to truly sample Elafonisi’s magic. Outside of high season, when there is no public transport to the beach and very few tours, you may have it all to yourself.

1Sights

Kedrodasos BeachBEACH

( GOOGLE MAP )

If you’d like to get even more off the beaten track than gorgeous pink-sand Elafonisi, head 1km east to similarly gorgeous Kedrodasos, a soft arc of pink-white sand favoured by nudists and backed by junipers. You can reach it via 2.5km of dirt lanes through the greenhouses behind the beaches, or by the E4 coastal trail.

4Sleeping & Eating

In addition to the lodging right near the beach, there are several more pensions around Hrysoskalitissas. Elafonisi Resort has the best restaurant, and other decent tavernas line the road in Hrysoskalitissas. There are a few snack bars on the beach.

oElafonisi ResortHOTEL, TAVERNA€

(%28250 61274; www.elafonisi-resort.com; s/d €35/45; aW)

More a small, well-run hotel than a resort, these 21 spacious rooms have fridges, and there are nicely furnished cottage rooms in back among peaceful olive groves, as well as apartments with kitchens. The shared patio has sea views and there’s an excellent attached restaurant (open to all) serving the catch of the day and classic Greek fare. Book well ahead.

Elafonisi VillageHOTEL€

(%6942254382, 28220 61548; www.elafonisi-village.gr; d/q from €55/75; hApr-Oct)

Just 250m from Elafonisi Beach, these 10 rooms string across an arid courtyard and offer refrigerator, TV and a small outdoor terrace area.

Rooms Panorama & TavernaPENSION€

(%28220 61548; s/d studios €40/50)

One of the closest options to Elafonisi beach, these basic rooms have a kitchenette with fridge. The taverna overlooks the sea but that's the best that can be said of it; food and service are erratic.

8Getting There & Away

There is one boat daily from Paleohora to Elafonisi (€8, one hour) from mid-May through September. Those same months there is one KTEL bus (www.e-ktel.com) daily from Hania (€15, 2½ hours) and Kissamos (Kastelli; €8.10, 1¼ hours), which return in the afternoon. There is no public transport from October to mid-May.

Hrysoskalitissas Χρυσοσκαλίτισσας

Five kilometres north of Elafonisi is the small hamlet of Hrysoskalitissas (hris-os-ka-lee-tiss-as) with its beautiful seaside monastery. It makes an alternative base to Elafonisi.

1Sights

Moni Hrysoskalitissas MonasteryMONASTERY

(admission €2; h7am-7pm)

Five kilometres north of Elafonisi is this beautiful monastery perched on a rock high above the sea. The church is recent but the monastery is allegedly a thousand years old and may have been built on the site of a Minoan temple. The monastery has created two small rudimentary museums on-site, a folk museum with a selection of weavings and objects from rural life and an ecclesiastical museum with mostly icons and manuscripts. Buses to Elafonisi drop passengers here.

Hrysoskalitissas means ‘golden staircase’. Some accounts suggest the top step of the 98 steps leading to the monastery was made of gold, but could only be seen by the faithful. Another version says one of the steps was hollow and used to hide the church’s treasury. In any case, during the Turkish occupation the gold, along with much of the monastery’s estate, was used to pay hefty taxes imposed by the Ottoman rulers.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are a handful of good tavernas and accommodation options strung along the road through Hrysoskalitissas hamlet.

GlykeriaHOTEL€€

(%28220 61292; www.glykeria.com; d/tr incl breakfast €60/80; as)

A small and friendly family-run hotel with neat and simple rooms with fridges and balconies overlooking the sea, as well as an inviting pool and a beloved taverna across the road. It’s on the main road before the monastery.

Gavdos Island Γαύδος

Pop 45

Gavdos (gav-dos) is as much a state of mind as it is an island. If you want to get away from it all, there is no better place for peace and isolation. Located in the Libyan Sea, 65km from Paleohora and 45km from Hora Sfakion, Gavdos is the most southerly place in Europe, and with only a smattering of rooms and tavernas, it’s a blissfully remote spot. The island attracts a loyal following of campers, nudists and free spirits happy to trade the trappings of civilisation for unspoilt beaches, long walks and rustic holidays. This is the place for chilling out, letting your beard grow, rolling cigarettes and spending the nights gazing at starry skies.

Geographically, Gavdos is more akin to Africa than Europe, and it enjoys a very mild climate. You can swim as early as February. For a sandy island it is surprisingly green, with almost 65% of the island covered in low-lying pine and cedar trees and vegetation. There are several stunning beaches, some of which are accessible only by foot or boat. Most of the beaches are on the northeastern coast, as the southern coastline is all cliffs.

Until the late 1960s Gavdos had little water and no electricity or phones, and most residents emigrated to Paleohora or other parts of Crete, or to Athens. While water is now plentiful, there can still be electricity shortages and blackouts (particularly in summer) as only part of the island has grid power – the rest uses generators, which are often turned off at night and in the middle of the day. Take a torch. Strong winds can prevent boats from coming, and leave visitors stranded for days, but you won’t find too many people complaining. At its tourist peak, the island’s permanent population of about 45 residents may swell to 1000.

History

Archaeological excavations indicate that the island was inhabited as far back as the neolithic period. In the Graeco-Roman era Gavdos, then known as Clauda, belonged to the city of Gortyna. There was a Roman settlement on the northwestern corner. Under the Byzantines, Gavdos was the seat of a bishopric, but when the Arabs conquered Crete in the 9th century the island became a pirates’ nest. It is thought to be the legendary island home of Calypso, in Homer’s ‘Odyssey’, where the nymph held Odysseus captive for many years.

1Sights & Activities

There are no villages per se on the island. Just tiny hamlets and loose encampments.

Boats land at Karave on the eastern side of the island, which has a couple of tavernas and a minimarket. The teeny capital Kastri is in the centre of the island and also has a couple of tavernas.

The biggest beach community is at Sarakiniko, just north of Karave, and has a wide swath of sand, several tavernas, a minimarket and showers.

The stunning Agios Ioannis beach, on the northern tip of the island, has a ragtag summer settlement of nudists and campers and is a 15-minute walk to the nearest taverna (which only has intermittent electricity) or road. Some camp out here for months.

Lavrakas beach is a half-hour walk from Agios Ioannis, and offers one of the most remote beach encampments. There is a natural freshwater well, and tanned, naked campers with dreadlocks blend in with the surroundings.

Potamos and Pyrgos are even more remote, but gorgeous, beaches on the northern coast (no facilities). You can reach them on foot from Kastri along the path leading north to Ambelos and beyond. The restored 1880 lighthouse on the road to the village of Ambelos has a museum and cafe. Before it was bombed by the Germans in 1941 it was the world’s second-brightest lighthouse after Tierra del Fuego in Argentina.

South of Karave, Korfos has a pebbly beach and a couple of tavernas with rooms. From here a 3.5km trail leads down via near-unpopulated Vatsiana to Tripiti – the southernmost tip of Europe. Three giant arches carved into the rocky headland at Tripiti are the island’s best-known natural feature. You can also come by small boat.

In Vatsiana, the island’s priest has created a small museum (%28230 42167; h10am-6pm Jul & Aug) in an old stone house with items collected from the island, including agricultural and domestic tools, a loom and weavings. Outside of July and August, knock next door for admission.

Despite the meagre population, there are 16 small churches dotted around the island. Most local boat owners offer full- and half-day cruises, including trips to the remote, uninhabited island of Gavdopoula, although there are no good beaches there. Ask at the tavernas.

4Sleeping

In addition to the rooms, people free camp around the island. The folks running the website www.gavdos-online.com can help with reservations. Gavdos has a short season, running June to August, and most tavernas and rooms start closing in early September.

Consolas Gavdos StudiosSTUDIO€

(%210 324 0968, 28230 42182; www.gavdostudios.gr; Sarakiniko Beach; d/tr studio incl breakfast €50/70; aW)

These comfortable studios perch right above Sarakiniko beach. Villas sleeping up to five are also available (€80 to €100). Taverna customers may use the satellite internet connection. Bicycles rent for €5. Phone ahead for harbour pick-up.

Akrogiali Taverna & RoomsPENSION€

(%28230 42384; www.gavdoshotel.com; Korfos Beach; d/tr €35/50; a)

Right on Korfos beach, Akrogiali offers simple rooms with fridge and air-conditioning (and electricity), and the pension overlooks the beach. The adjacent taverna is famed for its local cooking.

Sarakiniko GavdosAPARTMENT€

(%28230 41103; http://gavdos-crete.com; Sarakiniko Beach; r/studio €40/50)

This solar-powered place at Sarakiniko beach has a taverna run by a fisherman and his wife. The rental rooms and apartments are bare-bones.

Sofia RoomsPENSION€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %6947003533; www.sofiaroomsgavdos.com; near Agios Ioannis Beach; r €45-50; hMay-Oct; a)

Sofia Rooms is a solid 10- to 15-minute walk from Agios Ioannis beach in the clutch of tavernas nearest that remote beach encampment. Ecofriendly tidy rooms and a welcoming taverna beckon. Air-conditioning runs 9am to midnight, but solar power is 24 hours.

Gavdos PrincessAPARTMENTS€€

(%28230 41181; www.gavdos-princess.com; Kastri; apt €55-105; aWc)

Open year-round in the small hamlet of Kastri, Gavdos Princess offers pretty stone cottages with one or two bedrooms sleeping four to six people, and air-conditioning and small kitchenettes and terraces. There's wi-fi in the public areas and a restaurant.

5Eating

Fresh fish, of course, is the singular highlight of dining in Gavdos. Most pensions have attached tavernas.

Theophilos TavernaTAVERNA€

(mains €5-10; hlunch & dinner May-Oct)

Above Agios Ioannis beach and about a 10-minute walk, this place has excellent trays of mayirefta catering to the campers coming up from the beach.

Taverna SarakinikoSEAFOOD€€

(%28230 41103; Sarakiniko Beach; mains €5-15; hlunch & dinner)

Run by Manolis the fisherman and his wife Gerti, this taverna serves Manolis’ fresh catch daily. Try the tangy grilled octopus or red snapper braised with lemon and olive oil.

8Information

The island’s port is Karave, on the eastern side of the island, where there’s a small police station (%28230 41109). There are no banks, ATMs or petrol stations, but you can send mail in Sarakiniko. There’s a minimarket in Karave, and one in Sarakiniko for basic supplies, and usually a doctor on the island in summer. Mobile coverage is patchy but cardphones are available. Most tavernas have wi-fi but the signal can be interrupted due to weather and wind.

If camping, be sure to find out about local water sources before setting out. The website www.gavdos-online.com has lots of good tips about the island and what to bring.

8Getting There & Around

Anendyk (%28230 41222; www.anendyk.gr) ferry services to Gavdos vary throughout the year and can take between 2½ to five hours depending on the boat and where it stops. There are two routes: one serves Hora Sfakion (€17) via Agia Roumeli (€17) and Loutro (€17) two to three times per week, and one serves Paleohora (€19) via Agia Roumeli and Sougia (€18) two times per week. Check online for ever-changing schedules; the Anendyk site also lists which buses you can connect with.

The most direct route to Gavdos is from Hora Sfakion, which is sometimes direct (2½ hours) in summer. Only some ferries take cars, so check ahead.

Bike, scooter and car hire are available in Karave and Sarakiniko. Enquire about boat taxis to take you to remote beaches. From Karave, it takes about 30 minutes to walk to Sarakiniko, one hour to Korfos and 1½ hours to Agios Ioannis.

Lefka Ori & Samaria Gorge Σφακιά & Λευκά Ορι

Deep in central Hania province, the Omalos Plateau breaches the towering Lefka Ori (White Mountains) and marks the northern entry to the Samaria (sa-ma-ria) Gorge. Many will approach the region from Hania and start the gorge hike in little Omalos. But you can also reach Omalos easily from Paleohora and Sougia on the southern coast. The Samaria Gorge trail descends to Agia Roumeli, also on the southern coast.

Hania to Omalos

The road from Hania to the beginning of Samaria Gorge in Omalos is varied and, in places, spectacular. After heading through orange groves you'll get to the village of Fournes.

If you detour up a left fork in the road after Fournes, you’ll twist and turn along a gorge offering beautiful views to Meskla. Although the bottom part of the town is not particularly attractive, the road becomes more scenic as it winds uphill to the modern, multicoloured Church of the Panagia. Next to it is a 14th-century chapel built on the foundations of a 6th-century basilica that might have been built on an even earlier Temple of Aphrodite. At the entrance to the town a sign directs you to the Chapel of the Metamorfosis Sotiros (Chapel of the Transfiguration of the Saviour) that contains 14th-century frescoes. The fresco of the Transfiguration on the southern wall is particularly impressive.

On the main Hania–Omalos road south of Fournes, the excellent Botanical Park (%6976860573; www.botanical-park.com; Km 17 on Hania–Omalos road; h9am-7.30pm Jul & Aug, to 5pm Apr-Jun & Sep–mid-Nov) is well signposted about halfway between Fournes and Lakki. It was created by four brothers who transformed the family’s 80 hectares of agricultural land into a hilly park of medicinal, tropical, ornamental and fruit trees, all well signed and beautifully arrayed from mountaintop to valley floor. Their restaurant (mains €5 to €11) is a must for heaping regional dishes using locally sourced ingredients, some grown right in the park. Tables fill a hilltop terrace with sweeping views. The kitchen closes at 6pm.

The main road continues to the unspoilt village of Lakki (la-kee), 24km from Hania, which affords stunning views in all directions, and has a striking church. The village was a centre of resistance during both the uprising against the Turks and against the Germans in WWII.

Rooms for Rent Nikolas (%28210 67232; Lakki; d €35) has comfortable, simple rooms above a taverna, with magnificent views over the valley.

WORTH A TRIP

THERISO

For a day trip or an alternative route to Omalos, take the scenic road from Hania via the village of Perivolia to Theriso (Θέρισο), 14km south. This spectacular drive follows a coursing stream through a green oasis and the 6km Theriso Gorge. At the foot of the Lefka Ori (White Mountains), at 500m above sea level, Theriso was the site of historical battles against the Turks and is famous for its connection with Eleftherios Venizelos and the late-19th-century revolutionary period in Crete. These days it’s popular for its fine tavernas that host marathon Sunday lunches.

Two tavernas vie for top billing. Leventogiannis Taverna (%28210 74095; https://sites.google.com/site/leventogiannistherisso/; Theriso; mains €6-11) has a lovely courtyard under a giant canopy of plane trees and makes a delicious and sizeable kreatotourta (local meat pie). Antartis (%28210 78833; Theriso; mains €6-11; hlunch & dinner) has excellent mezedhes and Cretan food like staka, a goat’s-milk sauce over juicy cubes of goat meat.

Just past the village on your right, the small Museum of National Resistance (%28210 78780; admission €1.50; hhours vary) chronicles Crete’s resistance movement from 1941 to 1945. It has a monument outside paying tribute to a female resistance fighter. The millstone on display was used by Turkish occupiers in 1821 to crush Chrysi Tripiti to death in the local olive press.

A steep and winding road takes you through rugged mountain terrain and around an ever-changing landscape of plane, olive, orange, eucalyptus and pine trees through the villages of Zourva to Meskla and Lakki, where you can continue to Omalos or head back to Hania.

Omalos Ομαλός

Pop 30

Most tourists only hurry through Omalos, 36km south of Hania, on their way to Samaria Gorge 4km further on, but for those inclined towards solitude or the outdoors, this plateau settlement warrants a longer stay. During summer, the air is bracingly cool here compared with the steamy coast and there are great mountain walks offering magnificent views, birding, caving and climbing.

Omalos itself is little more than a few hotels on either side of the main road cutting across the plateau. After the morning Samaria rush, there’s hardly anyone on the plateau except goats and shepherds. It is practically deserted in winter.

4Sleeping & Eating

Some Omalos hotels are open only when the Samaria Gorge is open. Most have restaurants that do a bustling trade serving breakfast to hikers and are open at mealtimes the rest of the day. Many proprietors will drive you to the start of the gorge. As at other mountain locations, air-conditioning is not necessary.

Hotel Neos OmalosHOTEL€

(%28210 67269; www.neos-omalos.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €35/45/55; pW)

A rustic mountain feel pervades this comfortable and contemporary hotel where views from your balcony will get you in the mood for hiking. The owners are a fount of information on local hikes and other outdoor activities and can also shuttle you to the Samaria Gorge. The restaurant dishes up good, fresh food.

Hotel ExariHOTEL€

(%28210 67180; www.exari.gr; s/d/tr €30/40/45; hApr-Oct; p)

This traditional-style stone-built hotel has 24 simply furnished rooms with TV and balconies. The attached restaurant has a fireplace. The owner shuttles people to Samaria Gorge.

Kallergi HutMOUNTAIN REFUGE€

(%28210 44647; www.kallergi.net; dm with shared bathroom members/nonmembers €15/20)

The bare-bones Kallergi Hut is located in the hills between Omalos and the Samaria Gorge. It has four rooms of bunk beds and is maintained by Hania’s EOS. It makes a good base for exploring Mt Gingilos and surrounding peaks. It is a 2km hike to reach the hut, or arrange in advance for a ride.

AgriorodoVILLAS€€

(%28210 67237; www.omalos.com; 2-/3-bedroom villa €80/120; hyear-round; pWc)

These new and lovely individual stone cottages are the closest accommodation to the Samaria Gorge. Each sleeps four to five people and is fully kitted out with satellite TV, wi-fi, kitchens, and living rooms with fireplaces. The owners also operate the good restaurant Xyloskalo, with spectacular views at the very entrance to the gorge.

Omalos VillageVILLAS€€

(%28210 67169; www.omalosvillage.gr; 2-bedroom villas €80; hyear-round; pWc)

Omalos Village is a cluster of three well-equipped, spacious, two-bedroom stone villas with large dining and kitchen areas, including a dishwasher. They have a fireplace and outdoor seating area with great views, too.

8Getting There & Away

Three daily buses (www.e-ktel.com) serve Hania (€6.90, 1½ hours). One bus daily in summer comes from Paleohora via Sougia.

To hike the gorge and return to your room (and luggage) in Omalos, you can take the afternoon boat (www.anendyk.gr) from the hike terminus at Agia Roumeli to Sougia, then taxi back to Omalos (about €50).

Samaria Gorge Φαράγγι της Σαμαριάς

Hiking through Samaria Gorge ( GOOGLE MAP ; %28210 45570, 28210 67179; adult/child €5/free; h7am-sunset May-late Oct) is considered one of the ‘must-do’ experiences of Crete, which is why you’ll almost never be without company. In peak season, up to 3000 people per day tackle the stony 16km-long trail, and even in spring and autumn, there are rarely fewer than 1000 hikers. The vast majority arrive on organised coach excursions from the big northern resorts. You’ll encounter a mix of serious trekkers as well as less experienced types attempting the trail in flip-flops.

Nevertheless, there’s an undeniable raw beauty to Samaria, whose vertical walls soar up to 500m high and are just 3m apart at the narrowest point, 150m at the broadest, all carved by the river that flows between the peaks of Mts Avlimaniko (1858m) and Volakias (2115m). The hike begins at an elevation of 1230m just below the Omalos Plateau and ends in the coastal village of Agia Roumeli. It’s especially scenic in April and May when wildflowers brighten the trail.

Samaria is also home to the kri-kri, a rarely seen endangered wild goat. The gorge was made a national park in 1962 to save the kri-kri from extinction. You are unlikely to see these shy animals, which show a marked aversion to hikers, but you might spot golden eagles overhead.

1Hiking the Gorge

The trail begins at Xyloskalo, a steep and serpentine stone path that descends some 600m into the canyon to arrive at the simple cypress-framed Agios Nikolaos chapel. Beyond here the gorge is wide and open for the next 6km until you reach the abandoned settlement of Samaria, whose inhabitants were relocated when the gorge became a national park. Just south of the village is a 14th-century chapel dedicated to St Maria of Egypt, after whom the gorge is named. Every 1 May, numerous locals attend the panigyri (saint’s day) of St Mary. This is the only night during which anyone can stay inside in the old village of Samaria – a few old houses are opened for the purpose, and camping is allowed. (For further details, check with Hania’s EOS.)

Further on, the gorge narrows and becomes more dramatic until, at the 11km mark, the walls are only 3.5m apart. These are the famous Sideroportes (Iron Gates), where a rickety wooden pathway leads hikers the 20m or so across the water.

The gorge ends at the 12.5km mark just north of the almost abandoned village of Palea (Old) Agia Roumeli. From here it’s a further basic 2km hike to the seaside hamlet of Agia Roumeli, whose fine pebble beach and sparkling water are a most welcome sight.

Few people miss taking a refreshing dip or at least bathing sore and aching feet. The entire trek takes from about four hours for the sprinters to six hours for the strollers.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

TOP TIPS FOR HIKING SAMARIA GORGE

AAn early start (before 8am) helps to put you ahead of the crowd. Sleep over in Omalos to be first. During July and August even the early bus from Hania can be packed. Or start after noon, and plan to sleep over in Agia Roumeli.

AHikers starting after about 2pm are only allowed to walk a distance of 2km from either end. There’s no spending the night in the gorge – expect to be out by sunset.

AThere’s a 1200m elevation drop going north to south. Wear sturdy shoes and take sunscreen, sunglasses, some food, a hat and a water bottle, which you can refill from taps with potable water along the way. Drink plenty!

AThere are several rest stops with toilets, water, trash bins and benches along the trail.

AFalling rocks occasionally lead to injuries but generally it’s the heat that’s a far bigger problem. Check ahead as park officials may close the gorge on rainy or exceptionally hot days (generally, over 40°C), and the gorge season can end early if the rains have started.

AEarly in the season it’s sometimes necessary to wade through the stream. Later, as the flow drops, the stream-bed rocks become stepping stones.

AIf the idea of a 16km hike does not appeal, get a taste of Samaria by doing it ‘the easy way’, ie starting in Agia Roumeli and heading north for as long as you feel like before doubling back. The Sideroporta, for instance, can be reached in about an hour. Or consider some of the other gorges in the area, like Agia Irini or Imbros.

4Sleeping & Eating

It is forbidden to camp in the gorge. Stay at Omalos on the northern end, or Agia Roumeli in the south. The trailhead, Xyloskalo, near Omalos, has one restaurant and a clutch of refreshment stands selling souvenirs, snacks, bottled water and the like, when the gorge is open.

XyloskaloCRETAN€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %28210 67237; www.omalos.com; dishes €5-10; h10am-7pm or 8pm daily Apr-Oct, Sat & Sun Nov-Mar; W)

Perched just over the spectacular drop of Samaria Gorge, with eagles occasionally circling outside its wrap-around windows, this cosy restaurant dishes up classic Cretan and Greek meals. And offers that last chance to use indoor plumbing and wi-fi.

8Getting There & Away

Most people hike the gorge one way going north–south on an organised day trip from every sizeable town and resort in Crete. Note that prices listed usually don’t include the €5 admission to the gorge or the boat ride from Agia Roumeli to Sougia or Hora Sfakion.

With some planning, it’s possible to do the trek on your own. There are daily early morning public buses to Omalos from Hania (€6.90, 45 minutes) and Rethymno (€15, 1¾ hours) as well as services from Sougia (€4.20, one hour) and Paleohora (€6.40, one hour), once or twice daily in high season. Check www.e-ktel.com for the seasonally changing schedule. Taxis are another option.

At the end of the trail, in Agia Roumeli, ferries go to Sougia or Hora Sfakion, some of which are met by public buses to Hania, or you can continue on to Paleohora, Gavdos Island or other destinations, if you've carried your pack with you the whole way (or started from Sougia or Paleohora).

2Driving Tour
Southwestern Hania Province

Start Hania

End Falasarna

Length 45km; one day

This southwestern driving tour is a swerving mountain adventure into the wildest stretches of Crete – a DIY dream through bucolic villages, past stunning ravines where olive trees cling precipitously to cliffs, and to the island’s most serene beaches. It’s a full-day trip, so start early.

From Hania, head south towards Fournes, making your first stop at the 1Botanical Park, where you can have a quick jaunt among the plants and a coffee with views, before heading on to the unspoilt mountain hamlet of 2Lakki. Continue on to mountain-shrouded Omalos and peek into awe-inspiring 3Samaria Gorge at Xyloskalo. Next, turn back a few kilometres and go west across the Omalos Plateau to return to the jagged north–south road. Going south you’ll reach the top of 4Agia Irini Gorge, equally stupendous as Samaria. The zigzagging road south requires concentration and passes through several traditional villages.

Turning west at Rodovani, you will soon reach a junction near 5Temenia; if in need of cool refreshment, stop in at this tiny hamlet, known for its juices. Keep heading west and then south to 6Azogires, a curious village of unusual local legends. Drop to the coast at colourful, laid-back 7Paleohora for a fish-taverna lunch, and a quick dip. Next up are the magnificent pink sands of 8Elafonisi, Crete’s most sublime beach. This requires you to loop north again via Plemeniana and Elos; don’t take the more direct-looking dirt road shown on some maps, suitable only for serious 4WDs. After luxuriating here, drive 4km north to visit ethereal 9Moni Hrysoskalitissas. Continue along the coast through the aInnahorion villages, with traditional architecture and delicious honey, cheese and olive oil. Stop at bSfinari for a seaside fresh fish meal, then plan to spend the night at relaxing cFalasarna, a lovely rose-sand beach with good accommodation.

Northwest Coast

Far northwestern Crete is less affected by tourism than the city of Hania and its satellite resorts. Once you move past the overbuilt Platanias region west of Hania, the northern coast is defined by the virtually uninhabited Gramvousa and Rodopou Peninsulas. Kolymbari, at the foot of the Rodopou Peninsula, is the most developed tourist town (but more famous for its nationally distributed olive oil).

The Kissamos province is a rugged region of scattered villages and towns sustained by agriculture. Its capital, Kissamos (Kastelli), is the port for boats from the Peloponnese. On the western coast you’ll find two of Crete’s finest beaches, which are surprisingly underdeveloped: Falasarna and the even more remote Balos (Gramvousa). The Selino province includes the Innahorion region of small mountain villages.

Innahorion Villages Ινναχωριών

Some of western Crete’s most scenic and unvisited mountain villages, the Innahorion (derived from Enneia Horia, or nine villages), are spread across the far western coastal region, along the route connecting Moni Hrysoskalitissas and Elafonisi beach in the south with Falasarna and Kissamos (Kastelli) in the north. This quiet area, renowned for its chestnuts and olives, is one of the lushest and most fertile parts of the island. The coastal road from Kefali to Sfinari is one of Crete’s most beautiful: it winds around cliffs with magnificent coastal views unfolding after every bend.

For the area’s best eating, as well as blissfully serene traditional lodgings, plan to visit the area’s remote ecotourism settlement in Milia.

1Sights

ElosVILLAGE

Elos, near the south of the Innahorion Villages region, is the area’s largest town and centre of the chestnut trade – hence the annual chestnut festival, on the third Sunday of October. The plane, eucalyptus and chestnut trees around the main square make Elos a cool and relaxing place to stop. Behind the taverna on the main square stand remains of a once-working aqueduct that used to power the old mill.

Perivolia & KefaliVILLAGES

Two and half kilometres west of Elos, atmospheric Perivolia leads to Kefali, with its 14th-century frescoed church. Kefali has a handful of tavernas taking advantage of the lovely setting and view. From here, you can travel south to Elafonisi beach or loop north along the coast.

Pappadiana & AmygdalokefaliVILLAGES

The western Innahorion villages that line the coastal road enjoy a stunning location between mountains and ravines. First is the hamlet of Pappadiana, about 2km west of Kefali, from where the road rises into the mountains before manifesting superlative sea views from a bluff at Amygdalokefali.

KambosVILLAGE

Good hiking, beach access and decent accommodation can be found at Kambos, a tiny village on the edge of a gorge along the winding Innahorian region’s coastal road.

SfinariBEACH, VILLAGE

The Innahorian coastal road winds along by Sfinari, 9km north of Kambos and 9km south of Platanos. It’s a languid, laid-back agricultural village with a long grey-stone beach. The northern end is backed by greenhouses and the cove holds a basic camp site and several excellent beachside fish tavernas.

VoulgaroVILLAGE

Idyllic Voulgaro is located 9km southeast of Kissamos (Kastelli) on the inland road towards Elafonisi. Its name (by allusion, ‘Bulgarian village’) is said to descend from the identity of settlers brought to the place when Byzantine Emperor Nikiforos Fokas recaptured Crete from the Arabs in the 961 expedition to Crete.

Latsiana & MouriVILLAGES, CHURCHES

Testaments to the Byzantine period remain with the ruined 15th-century Basilica of Agia Varvara, 2km from Voulgaro down a southeastern side road in tiny Latsiana, and the church of Agios Nikolaos, 2km beyond that in the hamlet of Mouri. The former was built on an ancient Greek temple site, while the latter has distinctive surviving frescoes. There are fantastic views from both sites.

Topolia GorgeCANYON

Three kilometres south of Voulgaro, the main road towards Elafonisi reaches Topolia, a lovely village clustered with whitewashed houses overhung with plants and vines. Beyond it, the road skirts the edge of the 1.5km-long Topolia Gorge, bending and twisting and affording dramatic views. The gorge ends at tiny Koutsomatados, from where hikers can access the gorge.

Agia Sofia CaveCAVE

Just south of the village Koutsomatados, and after a narrow tunnel, the Agia Sofia cave contains evidence of settlement from as far back as the neolithic era. The cave is often used for baptisms and celebrates the patron saint’s day on 13 April. A third of the way up the 250 rock-cut steps to the cave, the taverna has great views over the ravine.

4Sleeping

There’s rough camping and rooms for rent in Sfinari, and many villages have some very basic rooms to let. Milia has the premier accommodation in the area.

Sunset RoomsPENSION€

(%28220 41128; Kambos; s/d €25/30; p)

In Kambos, Sunset has great views over the valley. Rooms are basic but pleasant enough. The attached taverna serves up good-value grills and salads.

Hartzoulakis Rent RoomsPENSION€

(%28220 41445; manolis_hartzoulakis@yahoo.gr; Kambos; r €30-50; p)

Small and basic but very clean, with large verandahs, the rooms here make a good base for walkers. The taverna on the terrace serves up good Cretan fare and excellent raki.

WORTH A TRIP

MILIA ECOVILLAGE

oMiliaAGRITURISMO€€

(%28210 46774; www.milia.gr; cottages incl breakfast €70-135; hyear-round; pc)S

One of Crete’s ecotourism trailblazers is the isolated mountain resort village of Milia. Inspired by a back-to-nature philosophy, 16 abandoned stone farmhouses were transformed into ecocottages sleeping one to four, with only solar energy for basic needs. Milia is one of the most peaceful places to stay in Crete, but it’s also worth a visit just to dine at the superb organic restaurant (mains €5 to €11).

Milia makes a great base for those wishing to unwind and see the Innahorion region. The cottages have antique beds, rustic furnishings, and fireplaces or wood-burning stoves. With the solar power, it’s best to shelve the laptop and hairdryer.

The restaurant’s frequently changing seasonal menu sources organic produce cultivated on the farm, including its own oil, wine, milk, cheese and free-range chickens, goats and sheep. Try the bourekia (filo pies shaped into thin long rolls, batons and pinwheels), stuffed rabbit with myzithra (sheep’s-milk cheese) or yoghurt, or pork with lemon leaves baked slowly overnight. We loved the winter favourite – potatoes, chestnuts and baby onions in red-wine sauce. There is nothing processed.

To reach Milia, follow the signposted turn-off north of the village of Vlatos. The narrow access road becomes a drivable 3km dirt road.

5Eating

IliovasilemaSEAFOOD€

(Sunset; %28220 41627; Sfinari; mains €7-12; hlunch & dinner May-Oct)

Seafront in Sfinari, this simple taverna grills up the fresh catch of the day and locally grown (and some organic) produce with tables lining the gravel beach, and back under the shade trees. And it does, indeed, have views of the sunset.

ThalamiSEAFOOD€

(%28220 41632; www.thalami-kissamos.gr; Sfinari; mains €6-12; h11am-10pm May-Sep)

One of Sfinari’s excellent fish tavernas, Thalami offers the local catch on the seafront, perfect for taking a midday dip before your grilled fish and mountain greens.

Panorama Taverna & RoomsTAVERNA€

(Kefali; mains €4-10; hlunch & dinner May-Oct)

Dramatic views down the valley let this little taverna and rooms-for-rent in Kefali village live up to its name, and then some.

Falasarna Φαλάσαρνα

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Some 16km west of Kissamos, Falasarna is little more than a long sandy beach – but what a beach! This broad sweep is considered among Crete’s finest, even though views are somewhat marred by greenhouses set among the olive groves. Like Elafonisi, Falasarna has magical-looking pink-cream sands and teal waters. It is known for its stunning sunsets. Along with superb water clarity, Falasarna has wonderfully big waves – long rollers coming from the open Mediterranean. It gets busy from mid-July to mid-August, primarily with day trippers from Hania and Kissamos (Kastelli).

Spread your towel on the Big Beach (Megali Paralia) at the south end or pick a spot in one of the coves separated by rocky spits further north.

Falasarna has no centre as such, although there are hotels and several tavernas, bars and small supermarkets.

History

The mysterious word ‘Falasarna’ is of unclear provenance – it may even pre-date the Greek language itself. The area has been occupied at least since the 6th century BC, but reached the height of its power as a city-state in the 4th century BC. Although originally built next to the sea, the town’s ruins are now about 400m inland because the western coast of Crete has risen over the centuries.

Falasarna owed its wealth to the agricultural produce from the fertile valley to the south. It was the west-coast harbour for Polyrrinia but later became Polyrrinia’s chief rival for dominance over western Crete. By the time of the Roman invasion of Crete in 67 BC, Falasarna had become a haven for pirates. Stone blocks excavated around the entrance to the old harbour indicate that the Romans may have tried to block the harbour to bar entrance to the pirates.

1Sights

Ancient FalasarnaRUIN

Wander among Falasarna’s ancient ruins reached via a 2km dirt road which starts where the paved road ends. The entrance is just past the ‘stone throne’. Further on there are the remains of the wall that once fortified the town and a small harbour. Notice the holes carved into the wall, which were used to tie up boats. At the top of the hill there are the remains of the acropolis wall and a temple, as well as four clay baths.

4Sleeping

Magnolia ApartmentsAPARTMENT€

(%28220 41407; www.magnolia-apartments.gr; studio/apt from €45/55; hyear-round; aW)

The modern cluster of creamy stone apartments sits just a short walk back from Falasarna’s Big Beach (Megali Paralia) and offers well-equipped studios and apartments with balconies. They are immaculate and comfortable.

Rooms Anastasia-StathisPENSION€€

(%28220 41480; www.anastasiastathis.com; d/apt from €45/60; aW)

Set back from the sea and the day crowds, the airy, attractively furnished rooms with fridges and large balconies are perfect for stress relief, as the friendly owner Anastasia puts it. Her enormous breakfasts are open to all comers and guests can pick vegies from the rose-rimmed garden.

Sunset Taverna & ApartmentsAPARTMENT€€

(%28220 41204; www.sunset.com.gr; d/tr/apt/villa €40/45/65/160; pW)

Sunset taverna (mains €7 to €8) has a terrace with fig trees and wonderful views, its own natural spring and beach access, along with simple but comfortable rooms. There are also multiroom apartments and relatively luxurious free-standing villas. The entire outfit is run by a welcoming family.

Falassarna Beach HotelHOTEL€€

(%28220 41436, 28220 41257; www.falassarnabeach.gr; studio/apt from €40/50; aW)

This well-kept modern hotel (situated right where the bus from Kissamos stops) is a good bet for those who want to have the creature comforts of a full-service hotel with quick access to the beach (a two-minute walk downhill). There are good views from most of the sea-facing rooms and from the shady patio taverna. Each room has a kitchenette.

5Eating

Galasia TheaCRETAN€

(%28220 41421; mains €4.50-8; h10am-11.45pm late-Apr–Oct; W)

On the cliff overlooking the great expanse of Falasarna beach, this cafe has spectacular views from its huge terrace and full children’s play area. They offer a full range of Cretan mayirefta such as the Sfakiano lemon lamb and are quite friendly, but service can be slow when it’s crowded.

8Getting There & Away

From June through August there are three buses daily from Kissamos (€3.50, 20 minutes) and Hania (€7.60, 1¼ hours). Check www.e-ktel.com for seasonal schedules.

Gramvousa Peninsula Χερσόνησος Γραμβούσα

Northwest of Kissamos (Kastelli) is the beautifully wild and remote Gramvousa Peninsula, whose main attraction is the stunning lagoon-like sandy beach of Balos, on Cape Tigani on the west side of the peninsula’s narrow tip. Kalyviani village is a good base for visiting the peninsula.

History

The offshore island of Imeri Gramvousa was an important vantage point for the Venetians, who built a fortress here to protect ships on their way to and from Venice. Considered impregnable, and outfitted with a huge cache of armaments, the fortress was not conquered by the Turks with the rest of Crete in 1645; it remained in Venetian hands. Eventually the Venetians left, and the fort fell into disuse until it was taken over in 1821 by Cretan revolutionaries. It later became a notorious base for piracy before the Turks took it and used it to blockade the coast during the War of Independence. Local legend has it that the pirates amassed a fabulous fortune that they hid in caves around the island.

The Kalyviani shipwreck, rusting on the west side of Kalyviani beach, is a Lebanese-registered ship that struck trouble on its way from Libya to Crete in 1981.

1Sights & Activities

oBalosBEACH, RUIN

The idyllic Balos beach and looping lagoons of shallow, shimmering turquoise waters are overlooked by islets Agria (wild) and Imeri (tame). It’s a heavenly remote stretch of Crete that merits its inclusion on brochures everywhere. The beach is gorgeous, with lapping translucent waters dotted with tiny shellfish and darting fish.

In summer, the crowds do come, usually by day-trip boat (May to October only), filling the beach from 11am to 4pm. To go independently by car or KTEL bus (July and August only) the final descent to the beach requires 4WD or a long, hot hike.

There is no shade and umbrellas with sunbeds cost €7.

The 12km, very rough dirt road (best in a 4WD) to Balos begins at the end of the main street of Kalyviani village and follows the eastern slope of Mt Geroskinos (762m). From here, the views over the shoreline and the Rodopou Peninsula are spectacular. It ends at a car park with snack kiosk from where the path to the lagoon is 1.2km down the sandy cliffs. Nondrivers could try hitching a ride or walk, although you’ll be eating a lot of dust from passing vehicles.

If you come by boat, it usually stops at the island of Imeri, which is crowned with a ruined Venetian fortress from which there are stunning views of the peninsula. It’s a steep 20-minute walk to the top and there is a rocky and generally unusable beach below with a (modern and not particularly compelling) shipwreck.

Gramvousa Balos CruisesBOAT TOUR

(%28220 24344; www.gramvousa.com; adult/child €25/12; hMay-Oct)

The easiest way to get to gorgeous Balos is by day-trip boat. Boats stop at different places along the way. Book online for discounted tickets. Reasonably priced food and drink is available on board. If it’s windy the trip can be rough – or cancelled – so check the day before. Summer-only KTEL buses from Hania are timed to boat departures.

4Sleeping

The best base for touring this region is the village of Kalyviani, 7km west of Kissamos (Kastelli). There are also other great studios arrayed along the coast nearby. There is no lodging at Balos.

Olive Tree ApartmentsAPARTMENT€

(%28220 24336; www.olivetree.gr; Kalyviani; apt/maisonette from €45/75; pas)

This attractive complex in an olive grove just east of Kalyviani village has spacious, comfortable and well-presented apartments and maisonettes suitable for families and longer stays, as well as an inviting pool and great sea views.

KalivianiINN€€

(%28220 23204; www.kaliviani.com; Kalyviani; d/q from €60/75; pa)

This welcoming stone-built guesthouse has comfortable, tastefully furnished rooms with fridge and balcony. There is also an excellent and modestly priced restaurant and a kids’ play area.

PatrikoVILLA€€€

(%6977575080; www.villapatriko.com; Kalyviani; villa per week from €1600; aWs)

This fully kitted out luxury villa in the heart of Kalyviani village sleeps nine and has everything from iPod docking stations to a dishwasher, laundry, swimming pool and organic bath products.

5Eating

oGramvousaCRETAN€

(%28220 22707; www.gramboussa-restaurant.gr; Kalyviani; mains €6-15; hnoon-midnight)

In the centre of Kalyviani village, Gramvousa serves fine traditional Cretan cuisine in an elegantly decorated stone building set in a superb garden. It’s a cut above other restaurants, and offers the chance to sample the freshest regional cuisine Crete has to offer, as well as wood-oven specials like suckling pig or lamb with honey.

8Getting There & Away

Take a day-trip cruise from Kissamos to get to Balos May through October, or bring a 4WD. Westbound buses from Kissamos will let you off at the turn-off for Kalyviani.

Kissamos (Kastelli) Κίσσαμος (Καστέλλι)

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About 40km west of Hania, the north coast port town of Kissamos (Kastelli) exudes an unpolished, almost gritty, air compared to other north-coast towns. This is not a place given entirely over to tourism, and although the setting on an broad azure bay ringed by peninsulas and mountains is spectacular, the town itself is a bit rough and tumble. Tourist hotels, cafes and tavernas line the pretty seafront promenade, and bustling streets press inland. There are two beaches separated by a murky canal: sandy Mavros Molos in the west and the pebbly Telonio beach to the east.

The largest town and capital of Kissamos province, it is referred to interchangeably as either Kissamos or Kastelli (though the official name is the former). The port serves ferries to/from the Peloponnese or Kythira, and day boats to Balos beach.

History

Kissamos was the harbour of important Dorian city-state Polyrrinia, 7km inland, and reached its heyday during Roman times, artefacts of which are now displayed in the local museum and archaeological museums in Hania and Iraklio. Most of the ancient city, however, lies beneath modern-day Kissamos and cannot be excavated.

Kissamos gained independence in the 3rd century AD and then became a bishopric under the Byzantines. It was occupied by the Saracens in the 9th century and flourished under the Venetians who built a castle here, at which point it became known as Kastelli. That name persisted until 1966 when authorities decided that too many people were confusing it with Crete’s other Kastelli, near Iraklio. The official name reverted to Kissamos, though it is still often called Kastelli or Kissamos-Kastelli. Ruins of the castle wall survive to the west of Plateia Tzanakaki.

1Sights

Archaeological Museum of KissamosMUSEUM

(%28220 83308; http://odysseus.culture.gr; Plateia Tzanakaki; adult/child €2/free; h9am-3pm Tue-Sun)

In an imposing two-level Venetian-Turkish building on the main square, this museum presents locally excavated treasure, including statues, jewellery, coins and a large mosaic floor from a Kissamos villa. Most items are from the Hellenistic and Roman eras, though there are also some Minoan objects. There are also exhibits from Falasarna, Polyrrinia and Nopigia.

4Sleeping

ThalassaSTUDIO€

(%28220 31231; www.thalassa-apts.gr; Paralia Drapanias; studio from €40; paiWc)

The isolated Thalassa complex is ideal for a quiet beach retreat about 5km east of Kissamos at Drapanias beach. The immaculate studios are airy and well fitted. There’s a barbecue on the lawn, and a small playground. It's helpful to have a car.

Camping MithymnaCAMPGROUND€

(%28220 31444; www.campingmithimna.com; Paralia Drapania; camp sites per adult/child/tent €7/3.50/5; pWc)

About 5km east of Kissamos, Camping Mithymna is an excellent shady site near a great stretch of beach. There’s a restaurant, bar and shop. Take a bus to the village of Drapanias, from where it’s a pleasant 15-minute (800m) walk through olive groves to the campground.

Nautilus BayAPARTMENT€€

(%28220 22250; www.nautilusbay.gr; apt €75-145; paWsc)

Spacious modern apartments fill this newly built complex right on the sandy beach and in the centre of town. Balconies have sweeping views and there’s a restaurant and bar and a large pool area.

Christina Beach HotelAPARTMENT€€

(%28220 83333; www.christina-beach.gr; studios €50-80; paiWs)

This smart studio complex on the west side of Kissamos represents the upper end of accommodation in town. Right across from the water, the modern studios are large and airy, and the sandy beach is right nearby.

5Eating & Drinking

Taverna SunsetTAVERNA€

(%28220 41627; Paraliaki; mains €7-10; h11am-late Apr-Oct; W)

Locals mix with in-the-know visitors at this quintessential family taverna presided over by Giannis, who’s usually ensconced behind the grill coaxing meat and fish into succulent perfection. It’s right on the waterfront.

PapadakisSEAFOOD€

(%28220 22340; Paraliaki; mains €4-10; hnoon-late May-Oct; W)

This classic taverna on the central waterfront is known for fresh fish (caught by the iconic owner), but also has plenty of mayirefta and grills. Try the roast aubergines or keftedhakia (meatballs).

Taverna PetraFAST FOOD€

(souvlaki €2.30; hlunch & dinner)

This unassuming place cornering the main square serves the best souvlaki in town (along with a range of grilled meats), accompanied by pungent local olive oil.

oBabel Cafe BarBAR

(%28220 22045; h9am-2am; W)

Not only a good choice for a quick breakfast or snack, this waterfront cafe-bar is a great place for coffee and gets lively at night with young locals. It has one of the most extensive beer and cocktail lists in town, and is worth swinging in for a pit-stop simply for the amazing bay views from its bustling patio.

8Information

The main commercial drag, Iroön Polytechniou, has supermarkets, banks with ATMs, the post office and the bus stop. Kissamos’ basic information site is www.kissamos.net.

Horeftakis Tours (%28220 23250; www.horeftakistours.com; Skalidi; h9am-1.30pm & 5-8pm) is a good source of information, sells boat tickets and organises car hire.

8Getting There & Away

Boat

From the port 3km west of town, Lane (%27360 37055; www.lane-kithira.com) operates twice-weekly ferries to Piraeus (12 hours), and goes four times per week to Antikythira (€10, two hours), Kythira (€17, four hours) and Gythio (€25.10, five hours). It’s far quicker to go to Piraeus from Hania. In summer, a bus meets ferries; otherwise taxis into town cost around €5. For tickets, try Chalkiadaki Travel (%28220 22009; Skalidi 49). Schedules change seasonally. Check www.openseas.gr.

Bus

Buses leave from the KTEL office (%28220 22035; www.e-ktel.com; Iroön Polytechniou 77) opposite the EKO gas station. Check the website for seasonally changing schedules. There are as many as 14 buses to Hania (€4.70, one hour) every day; change in Hania for Paleohora, Rethymno and Iraklio. There are also two to three daily buses to Falasarna (€3.50, 15 minutes) in summer only and one bus daily to Elafonisi (€8.10, 1¼ hours) from May to October.

Car

Kissamos Rent a CarCAR HIRE

(%28220 23740; www.kissamosrentacar.com; Iroön Polytechniou; car hire per day from €25)

One of several car hire agencies along Kissamos’ main street. Can deliver or pick up from Hania airport.

Polyrrinia Πολυρρηνία

oPolyrriniaRUIN

The wonderful mountain-top ruins of the ancient city of Polyrrinia (pol-ee-ren-ee-a) lie about 7km south of Kissamos, above the village of Ano Paleokastro (also called Polyrrinia). Sea, mountain and valley views from this defensible spire are stunning and the region is blanketed with wildflowers in spring.

The most impressive feature of the site is the acropolis built by the Byzantines and Venetians. There’s also a church built on the foundations of a Hellenistic temple from the 4th century BC.

The city was founded by the Dorians in the 6th century BC and was constantly at war with the Kydonians from Hania. Coins from the period depict the warrior-goddess Athena, who was evidently revered by the warlike Polyrrinians.

Unlike their rivals the Kydonians, the Polyrrinians did not resist the Roman invasion, and thus the city was spared destruction. It was the best-fortified town in Crete and the administrative centre of western Crete from the Roman through to the Byzantine period. The Venetians used it as a fortress. Many of the structures, including an aqueduct built by Hadrian, date from the Roman period. Near the aqueduct is a cave dedicated to the nymphs; it still contains the niches for nymph statuettes.

There is no public transport to the site.

Rodopou Peninsula Χερσόνησος Ροδοπού

The barren, rocky Rodopou Peninsula has a few small villages clustered at its base, but the rest is uninhabited. A paved road goes as far as Afrata, which has a couple of great tavernas like Tis Litsas Ta Kamomata (%6976228778; Afrata; mains €6-10; h10am-10pm daily Apr-Oct, Sat & Sun Nov-Mar), but then becomes a dirt track that meanders through the peninsula. If you are travelling by foot, 4WD, motorcycle or boat you can reach the Diktynna sanctuary at the end of the peninsula, but make sure you have planned your journey and are well supplied; there is not a drop of petrol or water, nor a morsel of food, beyond Afrata. From Afrata a road winds down to the small, pebbly Afrata Beach, with a small summer-only snack bar.

Kolymbari Κολυμπάρι

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Kolymbari, 23km west of Hania, is at the eastern base of the Rodopou Peninsula, and appeals to those seeking a low-key holiday. This former fishing hamlet has developed into a small tourist resort, taking advantage of the village’s long pebbly beach. It’s a good base for hiking Moni Gonias, and is known for its seafood tavernas.

1Sights & Activities

Moni GoniasMONASTERY

(admission free, museum €2; h8am-12.30pm & 4-8pm Mon-Fri, 4-8pm Sat, 7am-noon & 4-8pm Sun)

Founded in 1618, Moni Gonias was damaged by the Turks in 1645, but rebuilt in 1662 and extended in the 19th century. The monastery houses a unique collection of icons dating from the 17th and 18th centuries. Some are in the church while others are in the monastery’s two-room museum. The most valuable icon is that of Agios Nikolaos, painted in 1637 by Palaiokapas (in the museum). It perfectly exemplifies the Cretan school of icon painting that flourished in the 17th century.

The monastery, which also incorporates Crete’s Theological College, is easy to reach from Kolymbari. Take the beach road north from the town centre for about 500m.

Oceanis DiveDIVING

(%28244 00113; www.oceanisdive.com; hyear-round)

Full roster of dives and courses for beginners (intro course €80) and advanced divers (per dive €50), plus snorkelling (adult/child €35/25).

4Sleeping

Aeolos ApartmentsAPARTMENT€

(%28240 22203; studio/apt from €40/50; paW)

Signposted up the hill from town, this dated but well-maintained complex has big balconies with sea views. Breezy studios and two-room apartments are spacious, with carved timber beds, TV and kitchenettes.

Grand Bay Beach ResortRESORT€€

(%28240 83380; www.grandbay.gr; d €125-155, ste €150-250; paiWs)

This luxe resort complex on the eastern beachfront section of Kolymbari is an ‘adults-only’ haven of holidaymakers. Guests must be 16 or over and the place caters to your every whim.

5Eating & Drinking

ArgentinaSEAFOOD€€

(%28240 22243; Kolymbari Harbour; fish per kg €40-55; hnoon-late)

Considered one of the best fish tavernas in the area, the classic Argentina has tables on the main road and across the street overlooking the harbour. It serves seafood dishes such as octopus with olives and top-quality fish.

DiktinaSEAFOOD€€

(%28240 22611; Kolymbari Harbour; fish per kg €40-60)

This modern fish taverna has harbour views and a range of reliable seafood dishes.

Milos tou TzeraniCAFE

(%28240 22210; Kolymbari Harbour; h9am-late)

In a beautiful restored stone mill on the sea, this cafe-bar is a great place for a coffee or an evening drink and also serves light snacks and mezedhes.

8Information

There is an ATM on the main street and a post office in the centre of the village.

8Getting There & Away

Buses from Hania to Kissamos stop at Kolymbari (€3.30, 45 minutes, half-hourly) on the main road, from where it is a 500m walk down to the settlement.

Diktynna Δίκτυνα

DiktynnaRUIN

On the eastern tip of the Rodopou Peninsula are the remains of a temple to Cretan goddess Diktynna. Diktynna was the goddess of hunting and she was worshipped fervently in western Crete. The most important religious sanctuary in the region under the Romans, the temple was desecrated after the collapse of the Roman Empire. Now you’ll find foundations and a sacrificial altar as well as Roman cisterns. There’s also a lovely sandy beach.

Diktynna is accessible only by dirt road from Kolymbari; travel agencies in Hania offer boat excursions.

Legend has it that Diktynna’s name derives from the word diktyon, meaning ‘net’. It was a fisherman’s net that saved her when she leapt into the sea to avoid the amorous desires of King Minos. The temple dates from the 2nd century AD, but it was probably built on the site of an earlier temple.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

SAMPLING CRETAN CUSINE

oLeventisCRETAN€€

(%28210 68155; www.leventis-tavern.com; Ano Stalos; mains €6.50-14.50; h5pm-late Mon-Fri, noon-late Sat & Sun & daily mid-Jul–Aug, closed Mon Jan & Feb)

This award-winning taverna about 10km west of Hania attracts locals and visitors for its authentic and refined Cretan cuisine. Tables fill an elegant stone-and-wood-beam dining room and an alfresco terrace and have views of the lush hills all around. It’s a super place to get the best sampling of Crete’s top cuisine.