Lasithi Λασίθι

Why Go?

Lasithi is the wildest area of Crete with the richest biodiversity and least trampled ranges; it’s so rugged in places, you half expect Pan to emerge, pipe in hand, from the meadows. With its abundance of caves, gorges, gas-blue coves and snow-capped mountains, the region seems to have been naturally lavished by the gods. And that’s not forgetting its rich ancient history, with Minoan and Mycenaean sites waiting for you to explore at every turn.

This is also where you’ll find the island’s top resorts. Agios Nikolaos smoulders with cosmopolitan cool and, just around the bay, Elounda, the preserve of Tinseltown’s finest, glitters with uber-swanky hotels. For the true Grecophile in search of adventure and gastro delights, Lasithi ticks all the boxes; cyclists head up to misty Lasithi Plateau, trekkers tackle gorges such as the dramatic Valley of the Dead, and foodies enjoy some of Crete’s finest tavernas and restaurants. Then there’s attractions like the historic monastery of Toplou and Vaï’s beguiling palm-lined beach, while scores of towns and villages maintain a rich undertow of Cretan history and spirit.

Road Distances (km)

Best Places to Eat

A Pelagos

A Arodamos

A Ta Kochilia

A Zorba’s Tavern

A Napoleon

Best Places to Stay

A Terra Minoika

A Cretan Villa Hotel

A Villa Olga

A Petra Nova Villas

A Big Blue

Lasithi Highlights

1 Wander among the fascinating ruins on Spinalonga Island, as well as the settlements of its tragic leper colony

2 Ascend 630m to witness the finest wall paintings in Crete, at the mountain-bound Church of Panagia Kera, one of Crete’s most important churches

3 Brave the creepy, forbidding darkness as you venture into Dikteon Cave, Zeus’ mythic birthplace high up on the Lasithi Plateau

4 Explore the ruins at Gournia for a deeper insight into its Minoan inhabitants

5 Discover the chequered history of Moni Toplou, more of a fortress than a temple, and a beacon of Greek resistance and bravery

6 Explore the Valley of the Dead at Kato Zakros, following it through wildflower paths, under the watchful eyes of eagles

Northern Coast

Agios Nikolaos Αγιος Νικόλαος

Pop 11,421

Tumbling down the hillside to the shores of the glittering bay of Mirabello, Agios Nikolaos (ah-yee-os nih-ko-laos), Lasithi’s capital, caters to an international cast of visitors and welcomes them with typical filoxenia (hospitality). Its streets are a colourful blend of bars, traditional tavernas and upscale clothes shops, counterbalanced with fish markets and earthy kafeneia (coffee houses). By night it really comes into its own when the harbour is illuminated by the lights of effervescent bars, and the adjoining bottle-green lagoon of Voulismeni Lake is even more beguiling. Cosmetically, like many Cretan towns, Agios Nikolaos’ architecture may lack the neoclassical grace of the Dodecanese and the sugar cube simplicity of the Cyclades, but it’s stylish nonetheless, teeming with chic boutiques hawking jewellery, sea sponges and the usual offering of carved olive wood artefacts and busts of Achilles.

Stroll the harbour front alongside a young crowd of Greek fashionistas, park yourself at a cafe and listen to the buzz of conversation, or head to one of a handful of neighbouring beaches. And for all the glitz there’s a surprising amount of affordable accommodation, while tavernas and restaurants offer both great-value Cretan specialities and wider Mediterranean-influenced cuisine. There’s also free wi-fi in the harbour area and its surrounds.

The bus station is located just under a kilometre to the northwest of Voulismeni Lake. Most banks, travel agencies and shops are on Koundourou and the parallel pedestrian street 28 Oktovriou.

Agios Nikolaos

1Sights

1Archaeological MuseumA1

2Folk MuseumB2

2Activities, Courses & Tours

3Creta Semi-SubmarineC2

4Little Train ToursD2

5Nostos ToursB3

4Sleeping

6DeltaC3

7Du Lac HotelB3

8Hotel CretaD3

9Hotel DoxaA4

10Pension MaryC3

11Pension MylosD3

12Pergola HotelD3

5Eating

13ChrisofyllisD3

14EmbassyB2

15FarosC4

16ItanosB4

17Katzarolakia BleC2

18MigomisB3

19Palazzo Cafe BarC3

20PelagosB2

21Sarri'sB4

6Drinking & Nightlife

22Alexandros Roof GardenB2

23Bar ArudoB2

24DiolikoC2

25Peripou CafeB3

26Yianni's Rock Music BarD2

7Shopping

27Anna Karteri BookshopB3

28Aroma Coffee ShopB3

29KerazozaC3

30MarieliB3

Zakros SouvenirsB3

1Sights

Archaeological MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 24943; Paleologou Konstantinou 74; W)

Due to the economic crisis at the time of writing, this museum was closed until 2016 for refurbishment and expansion. When open, the extensive collection is the second-most significant Minoan collection in existence, and includes clay coffins, ceramic musical instruments and gold from the island of Mohlos. The highlight is the odd-looking Goddess of Myrtos, a clay jug from 2500 BC.

Folk MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 25093; Paleologou Konstantinou 4; admission €3; h10am-2pm Tue-Sun)

Next to the tourist office, this museum has a small, well-curated collection of traditional handicrafts and costumes.

Beaches

In town the beaches of sandy Ammos ( GOOGLE MAP ) and pebbly Kytroplatia ( GOOGLE MAP ) are small and overcrowded. Let your feet take you 1km north and south respectively to Ammoudi ( GOOGLE MAP ) and Almyros beaches, for longer stretches of finer sand to call your own. Almyros is quieter than the other beaches around town, with fine sand and beautiful clear water. All have umbrellas and sun chairs for rent.

2Activities

GeneralBOAT TRIPS

(%28410 24376; www.sailcrete.com; Minos, Beach Hotel Bungalows; half-/full day incl food & drinks €900/1300; h9am-6pm)

Run by Captain Apostolos, the General, a handsome 44ft cat, takes you (and up to five others) to Spinalonga Island and beyond on half- and full-day cruises. Meet him in Agios Nikolaos or arrange to be picked up from Elounda harbour.

Creta Underwater CenterDIVING

( GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 22406; www.cretaunderwatercenter.com; Mirabello Hotel, Agios Nikolaos; dives from €50)

Reef, wreck and night dives to a host of different locations. Four-day PADI open-water courses also available.

Creta Semi-SubmarineBOAT TRIPS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 24822, 6936051186; www.semi-submarine.gr; adult/child €15/10)

The Nautilus has a submerged viewing cabin that is popular with youngsters and adults.

PelagosDIVING

(%28410 24376; www.divecrete.com; Minos Beach Art Hotel; dives from €50, night dives €70)

Offers dives and PADI courses.

Nostos ToursBOAT TRIPS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 22819; 30 Rousou Koundourou; trips to Spinalonga without/with barbecue €15/25, fishing trips €50)

Runs boat trips to Spinalonga including a swim at Kolokytha. Also offers trips to Spinalonga Island including a barbecue, and fishing trips with food, including anything you catch.

Martinbike CreteCYCLING

(%28410 26622; www.martinbike.com; Hotel Sunlight, Elounda Rd, Agia Gallini; day trip from €65; hApr-Nov)

Celebrating 20 years’ operating in Crete, this excellent cycling tour specialist is based at Hotel Sunlight, halfway between Agios Nikolaos and Elounda. It runs one- and five-day trips in the surrounding areas, taking you through olive groves, sweeping mountain vistas and more on sturdy Scott bikes with skilled guides.

TTours

Travel agencies offer bus tours to Crete’s top attractions and the boats along the harbour advertise their various excursions.

Little Train ToursTRAIN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28140 25420; www.littletraintours.gr; Akti Themistokleous; adult/child ½hr ride €9/3, 3½hr trip €20/14)

Youngsters love these trips that vary from a half-hour ride round town to a 3½-hour trip that takes in an olive farm and a visit to the village of Kritsa. Tours start from the eastern harbour front.

zFestivals & Events

Lato Cultural FestivalMUSIC, DANCE

(hJul & Aug)

In July and August Agios Nikolaos hosts the Lato Cultural Festival, with concerts by local and international musicians, folk dancing, mantinadhes (rhyming couplets) contests, theatre and art exhibitions. Ask at the tourist office for details.

Marine WeekWATER SPORTS

(hJun)

Held during the last week of June in even-numbered years, this celebration has swimming, windsurfing and boat races.

4Sleeping

Hotel DoxaHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 24214; www.doxahotel.gr; Idomeneos 7; s/d/tr incl breakfast €45/50/65; aW)

This shadowy, bijou hotel down a side street has smart but cramped rooms with chocolate-brown quilts, marble floors, flat-screen TV, and immaculate en suite bathroom. Great breakfast. There is a lift, and Ammos beach and car parking are just a short stroll away.

Pension MaryPENSION€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 23760; Evans 13; s/d/tr €15/35/45; a)

Expect simple white-walled rooms with fridge and pine furniture at this old-fashioned pension in a narrow street just up from Kytroplatia beach. Rooms have bathrooms, and there’s a communal kitchen and a pleasant shaded area out back where you can spend time reading or eating. Best of all, you can hear the sea as you go to sleep!

Pergola HotelHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 28152; Sarolidi 20; s/d/apt incl breakfast €35/40/60; aW)

Run by charming management, this basic pension has really cosy rooms with waffled bedspreads, TV, spotless en suite, and balconies with great views of the bay. If you’re a family or two couples, keep an eye out for the recently added apartment with widescreen views and top spec en suite. There’s also fresh bread, honey and boiled eggs for breakfast.

DeltaHOTEL€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 28893; www.agiosnikaloas-hotels.gr; Tselepi 22; r €50; a)

Opposite Kytroplatia beach and behind a taverna, these bright, clean rooms are run by the owners of the Hotel Creta. There’s a minimum two-night stay.

oVilla OlgaAPARTMENT€€

(%28410 25913; www.villa-olga.gr; Anapafseos 18, Ellinika; s €45, apt €80-95; aWs)

These delicious self-catering studios and apartments (two to six persons) enjoy serene views of the Bay of Mirabello from their rising terraces set in lush gardens scattered with urns and shaded by olive trees. The interiors are traditional chic with tiled floors and tasteful bed linen and furniture. There’s a small swimming pool.

Villa Olga is reached by following the waterfront road, Akti Koundourou, northeast from the centre of Agios Nikolaos. At a junction above Ammoudi beach take the right-hand branch towards Elounda for about 500m and look out for the Villa Olga sign on the left.

Du Lac HotelHOTEL€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 22711; www.dulachotel.gr; 28 Oktovriou 17; s/d/studio with lake view €40/55/70; aW)

Slick and modern, this delightful central hotel is the businessman’s choice with fresh studios and apartments enjoying wood-effect walls, laminate floors, and balconies with fine views over Voulismeni Lake. Studio kitchenettes are modern and well equipped, while apartments also have baths. Downstairs there’s a pleasant restaurant. Expect excellent value off season.

Lato HotelHOTEL€€

(%28410 24581; www.lato-hotel.com.gr; Ammoudi; s/d €55/70; paWs)

Popular with travellers for its cleanliness, buffet breakfast, pool and friendly owners. Rooms are cosy with fridge and spotless en suite, but try for a quieter room at the back with a sea view. Catch the Elounda bus from Agios Nikolaos and ask to get off at the hotel. The beach is about 300m away.

The same management runs the charming Karavostassi (The Stone House) Apartments in an old carob warehouse on an isolated cove about 8km east from the Lato.

Pension MylosPENSION€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %6945992661, 28410 23783; www.pensionmylos.com; 24 Sarolidi; s/d/tr €45/55/65; aWc)

From the faded sign outside you might not guess, but within lie gorgeously welcoming rooms with bedside lamps, shiny en suites, seaward balconies and great attention to detail like orthopedic mattresses and linen sheets. The welcoming owner delivers her tagline of ‘home from home’. Fridge, TV and coffee-making services too.

A few minutes’ walk up from the harbour. There’s limited parking on the street.

Hotel CretaAPARTMENT€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 28893; www.agiosnikaloas-hotels.gr/creta; Sarolidi 22; s/d/tr €50/60/70; aiW)

Bland but good-value studios with kitchenette, balcony and fine views of the glittering bay beyond. Just a few minutes’ walk up from the harbour, the location is ideal for the town centre, yet in a quiet location. There’s a lift and limited parking in the surrounding streets.

Minos Beach Art HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL€€€

( GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 22345; www.minosbeach.com; Akti Ilia Sotirchou; r incl breakfast from €280; paWs)

In a superb location just out of town, this classy resort is a veritable art gallery, with sculptures from leading Greek and foreign artists adorning the grounds right down to the beach. The low-rise design and cool style maintain the hotel’s status as one of the island’s finest. Follow the waterfront road, Akti Koundourou, northeast from the centre of Agios Nikolaos for about 1km. The hotel is signposted ‘Minos Beach Hotel’ on the seaward side of the road.

THREE PERFECT DAYS

DAY ONE

From Agios Nikolaos it’s a short drive along the Kritsa road to the Church of the Panagia Kera, where there’s a feast of fabulous 13th-century frescoes. Then drop back 2000 years at the nearby Hellenistic-Dorian site of Lato. Head back to Kritsa, weave your way past the needlework sellers and wander the old town. At day’s end, reflect on the astonishing island history and culture while dining at one of Agios Nikolaos’ archetypal Cretan restaurants such as Pelagos.

DAY TWO

A reading of the romantic novel The Island will lead you to the compelling island of Spinalonga, the one-time leper colony where the novel and its television series are set. You can get here by boat from Agios Nikolaos, Elounda or Plaka. Before you go, a visit to Agios Nikolaos’ delightful Folk Museum conjures up a sense of time and place regarding the older Crete portrayed in the book. Finish the day at Elounda’s Arodamos restaurant for Cretan cuisine.

DAY THREE

Start the day early. From Sitia head for Moni Toplou, one of Crete’s outstanding monasteries. Continue to Palekastro and on to Kato Zakros for some Minoan magic at the remains of an ancient palace. Take a stroll into the awesome Valley of the Dead, and then drive back through rugged mountains to Sitia for a gourmet evening at traditional Zorba’s Tavern.

5Eating

For earthier, tastier food, head around the harbour to Kytroplatia beach where the locals eat.

Sarri’sGREEK€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kyprou 15; mains €10; hlunch & dinner)

Shaded by the branches of a eucalyptus tree, with its check-cloth tables and sun-beaten ambience, Sarri's evokes old Greece. Get stuck in to shrimp saganaki, souvlaki, calamari, pizza or a mezedhes platter with wine for €9. The garden terrace is ideal for breakfast, lunch or dinner. To find it reach the top of the hill and walk down 20m.

FarosGREEK€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kitroplatia Beach; mains €10; hnoon-late)

Right by the sea, this aromatic, family-run taverna exudes atmosphere, with meat and fish aglow on the brazier out front. There’s outdoor seating beneath a sheltered canopy, or a homey setting within the restaurant. The food is no less than superb with huge salads, mouthwatering calamari, kleftiko (slow oven-baked lamb or goat) and stifadho (meat cooked with onions in a tomato puree)…maybe free baklava and raki, too. Filoxenia in extremis!

Katzarolakia BleGREEK€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Akti Koundourou; mains €8; hlunch & dinner; W)

Enjoying great views of the harbour, this effervescent restaurant, with its modern decor of exposed stone, turquoise walls and white-wood floors, offers a contemporary take on Greek cuisine. Tzatziki, halloumi, souvlaki, octopus and many more. Not surprisingly it’s packed out with young Greeks and deservedly so. Take the lift up to the top floor.

ItanosCRETAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 25340; Kyprou 1; mains €9; hnoon-midnight; Wv)

Earthy Itanos has terrific Cretan homestyle cooking dished up by Chef Kostas. Select from trays of fresh mayirefta (casseroles and oven-baked dishes) such as goat with artichokes, tasty meatballs, moussaka, a wealth of vegie dishes and kleftiko (slow oven-cooked lamb) to die for. From outside it might not look much but there’s magic brewing in that kitchen.

EmbassyGREEK€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cretaembassy.com; Kondylaki; mains €7; hnoon-late)

Hung with ornate mirrors and Venetian masks overlooking gypsy-chic tables, this traditional restaurant is welcoming. Lamb kleftiko, veal with lemon, oven-baked pies and calamari with mouthwatering olives.

Palazzo Cafe BarCAFE€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kytroplatia Beach; mains €4; h8am-late; W)

This upscale cafe-bar with a sea-facing verandah exudes minimalist chic with faux marble walls and wood-topped tables. The menu covers salads, toasties, ice creams and sandwiches. There’s storytelling and live music events in the evening.

ChrisofyllisCRETAN€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 22705; Akti Pagalou; mezedhes €4-8; h12.30pm-12.30am; W)

Well-priced food makes this mezedhopoleio a classic small-plate place with several varieties of ouzo to enhance things, as well as some Greek wines. Specials include cheese pies, fresh mussels, and chicken with saffron. Bookings advised.

oPelagosMEDITERRANEAN€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 25737; cnr Stratigou Koraka & Katehaki; mains €10; hlunch & dinner; W)

Neoclassical meets modern Greek in this breezy upscale restaurant, with faux-distressed walls hung with petal-glass lamps and icons, fresh orange and white tables, and a menu of salads, seafood, meat and pasta. Order the grilled prawns and try not to come back again! Exquisite. There’s also a garden terrace.

MigomisMEDITERRANEAN€€€

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 24353; www.migomis.gr; Nikolaou Plastira 20; mains €12-38; hlunch & dinner Apr-Oct; W)

Commanding Olympian views of Voulismeni Lake, this tasteful eyrie sports candelabra, exposed stone walls, linen tablecloths and the soothing sounds of live piano on summer evenings. Cuisine spans Greek classics to Italian. Bookings advised.

6Drinking & Entertainment

The waterfront cafe-bars lining Akti Koundourou above the harbour get going mid-morning and later morph into lively bars. There are also other options around town.

Bar ArudoBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Akti Koundourou; h9.30am-late)

This low-lit haunt buzzes with the conversation of earnest boho locals, offering a cocktail of cool tunes, a sea-facing outside terrace and a handsome wooden bar within.

Alexandros Roof GardenBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Kondylaki; hnoon-late; W)

Classic sounds amid hanging plants, shrubs and funky decor.

Yianni’s Rock Music BarBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Akti Koundourou; h10pm-5am)

Haunting the wee hours since 1983, the town’s oldest music bar flickers in candlelight on the waterfront, its walls peppered with old Brando and Stallone photos. Thundering rock music and plenty of atmosphere; a night owl’s delight.

Peripou CafeCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 28 Otkovriou 13; h9.30am-2am; W)

This arty bar with a verandah overlooking the lagoon has a bijou bookstore, plays indie tunes, sells toasties and has a boho charm from the moment you enter its wine-coloured facade.

DiolikoBAR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Koundourou; h10pm-late)

Contemporary stone interior with sport on the flat-screen TVs and a list of cocktails to work your way through in its sheltered booths. There’s also breakfast, crêpes and coffee.

EllinadikoCLUB

(25 Martiou; h10pm-late)

This haunt popular with locals and visitors prides itself on being the only place in town to play only Greek music.

Cube BarCLUB

(25 Martiou; h10pm-late)

Hip hop and R&B at this funky late-night bar popular with a younger crowd.

7Shopping

Aroma Coffee ShopFOOD & DRINK

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Plateia Venizelou 24)

This aromatic shop has a selection of ground coffee, biscuits, sweets, nuts, wines and spirits, as well as beautiful handmade copper briki (coffee pots) for sale.

Zakros SouvenirsSOUVENIRS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 28 Oktovriou; h10am-10pm)

Packed to the gills with classical statuary and repro icons. Grab a bust of Hercules, ceramic pottery or puppets here.

MarieliCLOTHING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 28 Oktovriou 33; h10am-11pm)

This quirky little boutique sells stylish ladies’ tees, dresses, shoes and beachwear.

KerazozaARTS & CRAFTS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Koundourou 42; h10am-10pm)

Behind its turquoise exterior, this gem of a shop sells eye-catching necklaces, bracelets and rings, and masks and marionettes derived from ancient Greek theatre, along with some good-quality sculptures and ceramics.

Anna Karteri BookshopBOOKS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Koundourou 5 & Oktovriou; h10am-11pm)

Well stocked with maps, guidebooks and thrillers in English and other languages. The shop has access from both streets.

8Information

For more information visit www.lasithitravel.com and www.agiosnikolaos.com.

Byron TravelTRAVEL AGENCY

( GOOGLE MAP ; Akti Koundourou 4; h8am-8.30pm)

On the harbour, this excellent tour agency, run by Magdalene, books plane and boat tickets. It has reliable cars with fully comprehensive insurance from as little as €30 per day, and you can even drop off your ride at Iraklio airport.

General HospitalHOSPITAL

( GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 66000)

OK for broken bones and x-rays, but for anything more serious you’ll need to head to Iraklio. On the western side of town, at the top of the steep Paleologou Konstantinou.

Municipal Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

( GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 22357; www.agiosnikolaos.gr; h8am-10pm Apr-Nov)

Has helpful information and maps, changes money and assists with accommodation. Opposite the northern side of the Voulismeni Lake bridge.

National Bank of GreeceBANK

( GOOGLE MAP ; Nikolaou Plastira)

Has a 24-hour exchange machine.

Post OfficePOST OFFICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; 28 Oktovriou 9; h7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri)

Tourist PolicePOLICE

( GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 91408; Erythrou Stavrou 47; h7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri)

8Getting There & Away

Buses leave Agios Nikolaos’ bus station ( GOOGLE MAP ) for Elounda (€1.70, 20 minutes, 16 daily), Ierapetra (€3.80, one hour, seven daily), Iraklio (€7.10, 1½ hours, 18 daily), Kritsa (€1.60, 15 minutes, 10 daily), Lasithi Plateau (Dikteon Cave; €6, three hours, two daily), Vaï (€14) and Sitia (€7.60, 1½ hours, seven daily). You can catch the Elounda bus at a stop opposite the tourist office. A local bus (every half hour) can also be boarded here for the main bus station.

Boats run regularly to Spinalonga Island throughout the morning and cost €15, returning mid-afternoon.

8Getting Around

Typical taxi (%28410 24100) charges include Elounda (€13), Plaka (€18), Kritsa (€13) and Lato (€15).

Car and motorcycle hire outlets can be found on 28 Oktovriou and the northern waterfront. Club Cars (%28410 25868; www.clubcars.net; per day from €40) has cars for hire from about €40 per day.

Manolis Bikes ( GOOGLE MAP ; %28410 24940; 25 Martiou 12; scooter/mountain bike per day from €20/12) has a huge range of scooters, motorcycles and quad bikes.

GETTING AROUND LASITHI

Roads between the main centres and larger resorts throughout Lasithi are good. Minor surfaced roads are adequate, but always watch out for potholes. Driving on unsurfaced roads is not advised unless with off-road vehicles and full insurance.

Most larger villages and resorts can be reached by bus from Agios Nikolaos, Sitia and Ierapetra. The best way of finding up-to-date information is from the bus stations themselves. Many villages only have early morning and midday services during school terms. Popular tourist destinations only have a summer service.

You can rent cars, bikes and scooters from main centres and from most resorts in summer.

Kritsa Κριτσά

Pop 1296

Located beside the mouth of the dramatic Chauga Gorge, 11km from Agios Nikolaos, Kritsa (krit-sah) is achingly pretty. Its main draw is its authentic rural tempo and the paved, flag-festooned street of Kritzotopoula, beneath which walnut-brown octogenarians knit and hawk their wares of embroidered tablecloths and bed-runners.

At the heart of the main square, Plateia Melinas Merkouri (Melina Mercouri Sq), there’s a handsome bust of Kritsotopoula, a local beauty and revered heroine of the 1820s. At the start of Kritzotopoula, which branches off right just uphill from the main square, is Olive Wood (Kritzotopoula; h10am-9pm), a friendly little shop full of authentic handmade olive-wood spoons, bowls and candle-holders, as well as gypsy-chic hand-painted ceramics. Next door is the venerable shoemaker Detorakis (Kritzotopoula; h9am-11pm), where you can buy a fine pair of Cretan sandals for adults (€25) and kids (€18). Look out too for Philema ( Kritzotopoula; h9am-11pm) which sells local olive oil and local wine.

After the comparative buzz of Agios Nikolaos, this diminutive village is a real slice of calm – despite the tour coaches piling into Kritsa from late morning until late afternoon.

4Sleeping

Rooms ArgyroPENSION€

(%28410 51174; www.argyrorentrooms.gr; s/d/tr/f €30/40/50/70; a)

Situated on the left-hand side as you enter the village from the east, this delightfully clean place is run by a sweet lady and has stunning rooms with cool marble floors, spotless en suites, homey floral bedspreads, glass pendant lights and shabby-chic furniture. Many rooms have balconies, though the triple has the best mountain view.

5Eating

Taverna Café PlatanosGREEK€

(Kritzotopoula; mains €6.50; h10am-9pm)

A taverna-kafeneio halfway along Kritzotopoula, Platanos has a pleasant setting under a giant 200-year-old plane tree and vine canopy. There’s a tasty menu of grills, stifadho (lamb stew) and mayirefta (ready-cooked meals).

Saridakis KafeneioCAFE€

(Kritzotopoula; juice €3; h8am-midnight)

An excellent little cafe, this place makes for a cool stop in the shade to grab some homemade honey and yoghurt or a fresh orange juice.

Cafe Bar MassarosCAFE€

(Kritzotopoula; h7am-3am; iW)

A pleasant cafe-bar just up from the main square with internet access (€1 per half hour) and wi-fi. It also serves toasties, crêpes, salads and pizza.

8Getting There & Away

There are hourly buses from Agios Nikolaos to Kritsa (€1.60, 15 minutes, 10 daily). A taxi from Agios Nikolaos costs €13.

KRITSOTOPOULA, THE CRETAN HERO

The rousing tale of the beautiful and heroic Cretan girl Kritsotopoula (child of Kritsa) tells the story of Rhodanthe (her real name), who lived in Kritsa in the early years of the 19th century during the Ottoman occupation of Crete. She was said to have had a beautiful singing voice, and it was her singing that one day caught the attention of a drunken Turkish officer who attempted to push his way into her house. Rhodanthe’s mother resisted his attempts and was stabbed to death. The soldier then abducted Rhodanthe, but later that night while he slept Rhodanthe slit his throat, cut off her long hair, and took off for the mountains disguised as a man to join the Cretan freedom fighters.

In 1823, Rhodanthe distinguished herself in a fierce battle with the Turks near Ancient Lato. She was shot in the chest and died. Initial efforts to staunch the wounds revealed her sex and thereafter she became the revered Kritsotopoula, a classic symbol of Cretan resistance. As well as a bust in Kritsa’s Plateia Melinas Merkouri (Melina Mercouri Sq), there is a bas-relief on local stone by the English sculptor Nigel Ratcliffe-Springall, sited in an enclosure on the way to Lato. It depicts the dying Kritsotopoula in the arms of her father, a local priest.

Around Kritsa

Church of Panagia Kera

oChurch of Panagia KeraCHURCH

(%28410 51806; admission €3; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun)

The tiny triple-aisled Church of Panagia Kera, 1km northeast of Kritsa, contains the finest Byzantine frescoes in Crete. The oldest part of the church is the 13th-century central nave, but most of the frescoes date from the early to mid-14th century. The dome and nave are decorated with four gospel scenes: the Presentation, the Baptism, the Raising of Lazarus and the Entry into Jerusalem. On the western wall is a portrayal of the Crucifixion and grimly realistic depictions of the Punishment of the Damned.

The vault of the southern aisle recounts the life of the Virgin; the northern aisle is an elaborately worked-out fresco of the Second Coming. Nearby is an enticing depiction of Paradise next to the Virgin and the Patriarchs – Abraham, Isaac and Jacob. Judgement Day is portrayed on the western end, with the Archangel Michael trumpeting the Second Coming.

Ancient Lato Λατώ

Ancient LatoARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(Λατώ admission €2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun)

Worth the wheeze for the rural serenity alone – the mountain a silvery sheen of wildflowers, the nearby peaks tipped with snow – the ancient city of Lato, 4km north of Kritsa, is one of Crete’s few non-Minoan ancient sites. Lato (la-to) was founded in the 7th century BC by the Dorians and at its height was one of the most powerful cities in Crete, until it was abandoned in 200 BC for its more convenient harbour, where Agios Nikolaos now stands.

The surviving ruins sprawl over the slopes of two acropolises in a lonely mountain setting, commanding stunning views down to the Bay of Mirabello. At a little elevation they begin to take form as you look down and imagine the bustling agora (market).

The city gate is the entrance to the site and leads to a long, stepped street. The wall on the left contains two towers, which were also residences. Follow the street to reach the agora, built around the 4th century BC, which contained a cistern and a rectangular sanctuary. Excavations of the temple have revealed a number of 6th century BC figurines. The circle of stones behind the cistern was a threshing floor. The western side of the agora contains a stoa with stone benches. There are remains of a pebble mosaic nearby. A terrace above the southeastern corner of the agora contains the remains of a rectangular temple, probably built in the late 4th or early 3rd century BC. Between the two towers on the northern end of the agora, there are steps leading to the prytaneion, the administrative centre of the city-state. The centre of the prytaneion contained a hearth with a fire that burned day and night. On the eastern side of the prytaneion is a colonnaded court. Below the prytaneion is a semicircular theatre that could seat about 350 people next to an exedra (stage), which has a bench around the walls.

Neachus, one of Alexander’s generals, is said to have come from here. The city’s name is derived from the goddess Leto, whose union with Zeus produced Artemis and Apollo, both of whom were worshipped here.

There are no buses to Lato. The road to the site is signposted to the right on the approach to Kritsa. It’s a 30-minute road walk through pleasant wooded countryside.

Katharo Plateau & Kroustas

From Kritsa it is a 16km scenic climb up to the spectacular Katharo Plateau, which is cultivated by people from Kritsa, some of whom have summer homes here. Sitting at an altitude of 1200m, this beautiful wildflower pleateau is often under deep snow in winter, and home to only 500 inhabitants. There are a couple of seasonal tavernas here.

Just 4.5km south of Kritsa is the village of Kroustas, where locals go for very traditional local cuisine. Popular O Kroustas (h10am-10pm) has Cretan food, including a superb lazania (twisted handmade pasta, also called stroufikta) cooked in stock with anthotiro (a dry, white cheese) and rusks made in the wood oven.

Elounda Ελούντα

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This earthy little fishing village has grown in profile in recent years, thanks to the nearby uber-exclusive hotels enjoying an influx of A-list celebrities (think Ronaldo, Leonardo DiCaprio, U2 and Lady Gaga). The town itself lacks any of this style and glitz, though it seems happy enough about that. Locals will cheerfully take you fishing or to nearby Spinalonga Island, oblivious to the odd appearance of the Hollywood deities venturing from their gated Olympian haunts.

By night Elounda looks more inviting, the harbour aglitter with the lights of tavernas and bars. The pleasant but unremarkable town beach, to the north of the port, can get very crowded. On the southern side of Elounda an artificial causeway leads to the Kolokytha Peninsula.

2Activities

Ferries go regularly to Spinalonga Island from Elounda. Numerous boats offer other trips (€10) around the area; they operate through a cooperative from the harbour quay.

Blue Dolphin Diving CentreDIVING

(%28410 41802; www.dive-bluedolphin.com; dives from €50, open-water course €390)

The area around Elounda offers excellent diving. Try this PADI centre at the Aquila hotel.

Amazing Sailing in CreteSAILING

(%6944586475; www.amazingsailingincrete.com; Porta Elounda Resort, Elounda; 3hr sunset cruise/4hr half-day cruise/full-day cruise €650/750/1100)

Visit hidden coves inaccessible by road and have lunch in a traditional fishing village. Drinks and fruit are included. Run by friendly Captain Yiannis.

4Sleeping

Many hotels in and around Elounda are booked in advance by tour operators.

Delfinia ApartmentsAPARTMENT€

(%28410 41641; www.pediaditis.gr; studio/apt €40/50; aWsc)

These delightful sea-view rooms enjoy tasteful furnishings and well-equipped kitchenettes with sandwich-maker, fridge and microwave. So close to the waves they will lull you to sleep. The same family also run the nearby Milos Apartments, where there is a pool.

Hotel AristeaHOTEL€

(%28410 41300; www.aristeahotel.com; Main Sq; s/d incl breakfast €35/45; aW)

This elegantly faded dame close to the harbour, on the corner of the main square, has an authentic family feel and the lady owner is charming. Rooms are cosy with tangerine bedspreads, fridge, hairdryer, seaward balcony and spotless bathroom. Old-world charm.

MarinAPARTMENT€

(%28410 41588; d/apt €40/55; pW)

Overlooking the town beach on the road to Plaka, these are simple whitewashed rooms and apartments with clean floors, tasteful furniture and basic kitchenettes. Each room also has a desk and balcony. The main draw is the cosy snack bar out front which has homemade food.

Kalypso HotelHOTEL€

(%28410 41367; www.kalypsoelounda.gr; s/d €30/60; aW)

There are 16 bright, spotless rooms in this characterful, crenellated building next to the clock tower on the main square in the centre of the village. Rooms have sparkling bathrooms, large, comfy beds, desk and minimalist decor. There’s an inviting restaurant downstairs with all the usual suspects on the menu.

Corali StudiosAPARTMENT€€

(%28410 41712; www.coralistudios.com; Akti Poseidonos; r €45-75; paWs)

Set amid lush lawns with a shaded patio, and overlooking the nearby town beach, Corali has stucco-walled, fresh rooms with waffle quilts, balcony, large bathroom, and tasteful furniture. You’ll find them a few hundred yards out of Elounda heading for Plakia. The same family run the Portobello Apartments (€65-75) next door.

Elounda Island VillasAPARTMENT€€

(%28410 41274; www.eloundaisland.gr; d €85, 4-person apt €115; paW)

A secluded option on Kolokytha Island, reached along the narrow peninsula. The split-level apartments, with well-equipped kitchens, are set amid a pleasant garden and decorated with traditional furnishings. It’s just under a kilometre’s walk into town.

5Eating

oArodamosGREEK€

(%28410 41122; Naksou 6; mains €4-9; h11am-late; W)

This hidden jewel sits two minutes’ walk behind the square occupying a century-old cube house with Cycladic blue shutters and fronted by a garden of shady olive trees and palms. The menu is trad-Greek with meat cooked on the spit before your eyes; lamb chops, local sausage and kondosouvli (roasted liver wrapped in intestines).

MarilenaGREEK€

(mains €11; h11am-11pm; c)

One of the oldest and most traditional restaurants in town, Marilena enchants with check-cloth tables, Cretan handicrafts, musical instruments on the walls, and a lively atmosphere lit with good service and fine food. Try the kleftiko (slow oven-baked lamb). Romantic. It's on the road to Plaka.

OceanisCRETAN€

(%28410 42246; mains €6.50-16; hlunch & dinner)

Adonis Bebelakis cooks for pleasure as well as profit, refrains from overcrowding his tables, and sources his local raw materials with care. The style is slow cooking, including such Cretan classics as oven-cooked lamb with garlic and sweet wine and Bebelakis family favourites such as melidzanes tis mamas (slices of aubergine baked with tomatoes, hard cheese and spearmint). Find it 500m out of town, on the road to Plaka.

Fresco EateryMEDITERRANEAN€

(mains €6; h6am-late)

On the corner of the main square beside the clocktower, this tasty joint has a lively alfresco area and dishes up huge fresh salads, pizza, pasta, gyros and burgers.

6Drinking & Nightlife

There are several cheerful bars and clubs in Elounda, though things are still fairly low key.

Haroupo Ergospacio Cafe BarBAR

(hnoon-midnight)

Easy tunes, cream shabby-chic furniture, a handsome stone and wood bar, as well as sofas and scattered wooden chests make this a tasteful waterfront spot to gather by the lap of the waves and watch the sundown. Cocktails, juices and snacks.

KatafygioBAR

(h9am-late)

Looking a little faded now, Katafygio is known for its Cretan and Greek music nights and occasional belly-dancing sessions. Find it at the southern end of the Elounda waterfront, housed in a former carob-processing plant.

Alyggos BarBAR

Twenty-five years young, this popular tourist bar on the main square offers late-night disco, and by day, a cool, shadowy spot to watch the football. Wood ceiling, candelabra and a nice vibe.

BabelBAR

(Akti Vritomartidos)

Attractive decor and an upbeat tone make Babel a cool venue for drinks. It’s just along from the prominent clock tower on the harbour.

7Shopping

TrilogyCRAFTS

(A Papandreou 9; h10am-8pm)

An attractive craft and gift shop that offers photocopying alongside its selection of books, stationery and artifacts.

8Information

The main square of Elounda is something of a large car park (parking per hour €1, six hours €3.50), but it overlooks an attractive fishing harbour still devoted to working boats. The post office and a couple of ATMs are located here.

Babel Internet CafeINTERNET

(%28410 42336; per hr €2)

The Babel bar’s other facility.

Municipal Tourist OfficeTOURIST INFORMATION

(%28410 42464; h8am-8pm Jun-Oct)

Helps with accommodation and information, and changes money.

Olous TravelTRAVEL AGENCY

(%28410 41324)

Handles air and boat tickets and finds accommodation. It’s overlooking the main square.

8Getting There & Around

Boats cross to Spinalonga Island every half-hour (return adult/child €10/5, 10 minutes).

There are 13 buses daily from Agios Nikolaos to Elounda (€1.70, 20 minutes). Buses stop at the main square, where there’s a taxi stand (%28410 41151). The fare is €13 to Agios Nikolaos and €7 to Plaka.

Cars, motorcycles and scooters can be hired at Elounda Travel (%28410 41800; www.eloundatravel.gr), which has several offices in town including one on the main square. High season prices for cars range from €50 to €105 per day.

Kolokytha Peninsula Χερσόνησος Κολοκύθα

Opposite Elounda is the Kolokytha Peninsula, reached by a low causeway. Ancient Olous, which was the port of Lato, stood on and around the original isthmus. Olous was a Minoan settlement that flourished from 3000 to 900 BC and was an important trade centre. It appears to have been destroyed by the Saracens in the 9th century AD.

Most of the ruins lie beneath the water on either side of the causeway and have made the area a popular place for snorkelling. Many birds nest here and pass through in spring and autumn. The remains of an early Christian mosaic, portraying dolphins, lies within an enclosure near the causeway.

Coming from Agios Nikolaos the causeway and peninsula are reached as you enter Elounda, by turning off the main road just beyond the prominent yellow signs of the Elounda Rent a Car offices and opposite Mam’s House snack bar. It’s a tight turn.

On the eastern side of the Kolokytha Peninsula, there’s a sandy beach 1km from the causeway’s end, reached by a narrow dirt track.

Plaka Πλάκα

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Wind-blasted Plaka, 5km from Elounda, is a delightful bijou village of attractive boutiques, inviting restaurants and cafes, as well as some very cosy tavernas hugging the waterfront. Beyond the jetty, past the yellow nets and cobalt sea, is the skeletal ruins of Spinalonga Island, a former leper colony. Low-key Plaka is now internationally famous in the wake of the success of the novel and television series, The Island (To Nisi).

Ask around the village or at one of the tavernas about boats to Spinalonga Island (about €10 return); they depart regularly with tour companies and on demand.

Petros Watersports (%6944932760; www.spinalonga-windsurf.com; Marmin Bay Palace) rents kayaks by the hour (€15) and day, and offers ringo rides (€15), water skiing (€30) and wake-boarding.

4Sleeping & Eating

oStella Mare StudiosAPARTMENT€

(%28410 41814; studio/apt €45/55; aW)

Just off the main road in the centre of the village, Stella has lush gardens spilling with flowers and comfy studios featuring wooden beds, check-cloth tables, lace curtains, kitchenette, colourful art and balcony. The family apartments accommodate four and have superb views of the sea and Spinalonga Island.

oTaverna GiorgosCRETAN€

(mains €8-16; h11am-midnight; c)

Favoured by the cast of the hit TV series, The Island (whose photos are on the wall), this atmospheric wood-beamed hobbit hole is strung with eclectic nautical decorations and has a welcoming outdoor terrace fronting Spinalonga. A delicious menu of fired veal chops, steak, souvlakia, octopus, tzatziki and much more.

Captain NikolasGREEK€

(mains €8; hnoon-midnight; c)

Named after a local sea captain, this attractive stone taverna on the waterfront excels in its execution of lobster, octopus and calamari. All complemented by amazing views of, you guessed it, the island of Spinalonga.

OstriaGREEK€€

(mains €10-50; hnoon-midnight)

Aptly named Ostria (translated as 'south wind') sits on the sea, buffeted by wind and breeze, and has unblemished views of Spinalonga. Homemade food is cooked only in olive oil and there’s a wide range of choice from mezedhes, octopus, sea urchin, clams, langoustine and mussels.

WORTH A TRIP

SPINALONGA ISLAND

Spinalonga IslandHISTORIC SITE

(Νήσος Σπιναλόγκα admission €2; h9am-6pm)

Tiny Spinalonga Island and its fortress lie in a picturesque setting just off the northern tip of the Kolokytha Peninsula and opposite the onshore village of Plaka. With the explosion of interest in Spinalonga in the wake of Victoria Hislop’s romantic novel The Island (in Greek To Nisi), about the island’s time as a leper colony, you’re unlikely to feel lonely there. There’s a reconstructed section of a street from the period featured in the novel, and although tour group leaders stir up a fine old babel, you can still enjoy a very pleasant stroll round the island, passing evocative ruins of churches, turrets and other buildings.

The Venetians built the formidable fortress (admission €3; h10am-6pm) in 1579 to protect the bays of Elounda and Mirabello. Spinalonga finally surrendered to Ottoman forces in 1715.

From 1903 until 1955, during the post-Ottoman era, the island was a colony where Greeks suffering from leprosy (Hansen’s disease) were quarantined. The early days of the colony were allegedly squalid and miserable. However, in 1953, the arrival of the charismatic Athenian sufferer and law student, Epaminondas Remoundakis, heralded the introduction of decent living conditions and of a redemptive spirit on the island. The colony finally closed in 1973. It is this dramatic and touching story around which Hislop weaves her tale.

The island had previously featured in a short film, Last Words, made in 1968 by Werner Herzog.

There’s a cafe and souvenir shops here. Regular excursion boats visit Spinalonga from Agios Nikolaos (from €15). Ferries also run from Elounda (€10) and Plaka (€10).

Milatos Μύλατος

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Milatos, the northern coast’s easternmost beach, is a fairly low-key place in contrast to the heavily developed coastal strip between it and Iraklio. The village of Milatos itself is 2km inland from the pebbly beach and its straggle of tavernas and rooms.

There are two good fish tavernas, Panorama (%28410 81213; Milatos Beach; h10am-4pm) and To Meltemi (%28410 81353; Milatos Beach; h10am-4pm), at either end of the beach.

The intriguing Milatos Cave is about 3km east of the village and is well signposted. It was here, in 1823, during Crete’s famous bid for union with Greece, that an estimated 2500 local people hid in the cave as Turkish troops ravaged the area. The cave is located high on a cliff above a lonely gorge. The trapped Cretans held out for over two weeks before attempting an escape, only to be slaughtered or sold into slavery. There is a tiny church in the mouth of the cave. The cave is reached along a delightful walkway above the gorge. Take a torch and be very careful of the sometimes slippery surfaces underfoot.