Transport
Transport
Getting There & Away
Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com/bookings.
Entering the Country
Entering Crete is usually a very straightforward procedure. If arriving from any of the Schengen countries (ie EU member states plus Iceland, Norway and Switzerland), passports are rarely given more than a cursory glance, but customs and police may be interested in what you are carrying. EU citizens may also enter Greece on a national identity card. Visitors from outside the EU may require a visa. This must be checked with consular authorities before you arrive.
Climate Change and Travel
Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.
Air
Most travellers arrive in Crete by air, usually with a change in Athens. Between May and October, charter and low-cost airlines like easyJet and Ryanair operate direct flights to Crete, mostly from UK, German and Scandinavian airports. Ryanair also offers cheap domestic flights between Crete and Athens.
Airports & Airlines
Hania Airport Ioannis DaskalogiannisAIRPORT
(
GOOGLE MAP
; 
%28210 83800; www.chaniaairport.com)
Hania’s airport is 14km east of town on the Akrotiri Peninsula, and is served year-round from Athens and seasonally from throughout Europe.
Nikos Kazantzakis International AirportAIRPORT
(HER;
GOOGLE MAP
; %general 28103 97800, info 28103 97136; www.heraklion-airport.info)
About 5km east of Iraklio (Crete). Has a bank, ATM, duty-free shop and cafe-bar.
Sitia AirportAIRPORT
(%28430 24666)
Flights to Athens, Iraklio, Kassos, Karpathos and Rhodes. Summer flights to Amsterdam and Lyon.
Domestic Carriers
The safety records of Aegean and Olympic airlines are exemplary.
Aegean AirlinesAIRLINE
Services from Iraklio and Hania to Athens and Thessaloniki, Rhodes, with numerous onward connections throughout Europe as well as to Cairo, İstanbul, Tel Aviv, New York and Toronto. Direct flights from London-Heathrow, Milan, Paris, Marseille and Rome. Seasonal flights to Iraklio include Vienna, Prague, Moscow, Frankfurt, Amsterdam and Nantes. Partially merged with the other domestic carrier, Olympic Air.
Olympic AirAIRLINE
Connects Iraklio and Hania with Athens, Sitia with Rhodes, and operates other domestic routes.
Sky ExpressAIRLINE
Greek destinations from Iraklio include Athens, Mytilini (Lesvos), Rhodes, Kos, Samos, Chios, Karpathos and Volos. From Sitia flights serve Iraklio, Alexandroupolis and Preveza. Strict baggage allowances.
Astra AirlinesAIRLINE
Airline connecting Iraklio, Hania and Sitia with Thessaloniki. Connects Sitia with Athens.
Tickets
EasyJet and Ryanair offer some of the cheapest tickets between Greece and the rest of Europe and cover a huge range of destinations. If you’re coming from outside Europe, consider a cheap flight to a European hub and then an onward ticket with a budget airline. Some airlines also offer cheap deals to students. If you’re planning to travel between June and September, it’s wise to book ahead.
Land
Bus
KTEL (www.e-ktel.com) offers buses (via ferries) from Hania to Thessaloniki, Ioannina and Patra.
Car & Motorcycle
When bringing your own vehicle to Greece, you need a valid driving licence, your car registration certificate and proof of insurance. Foreign cars must display a nationality sticker unless they have official Euro-plates. You should also carry a warning (hazard) triangle, fire extinguisher and first-aid kit.
From most European countries, travelling to Crete by car takes several days and thus only makes sense for longer stays. The fastest way is to hop on a ferry from Italy. There are overnight ferries to Patra at the northwestern tip of the Peloponnese from Ancona (21 hours), Bari (14½ hours), Brindisi (14½ hours) and Venice (31 hours). See www.greekferries.gr for schedules and prices. From here it’s about a 200km drive south to Piraeus (near Athens), where you can catch another ferry to Iraklio, Sitia or Hania.
It is still possible to drive to Greece via Slovenia, Croatia, Bulgaria and the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, but the savings are not huge and are far outweighed by the distance involved and the necessity of crossing five borders.
SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL BY TRAIN
The trip from London to Iraklio by air generates 0.55 metric tons of emission. If you’re driving, it’s about the same or more, depending on your vehicle. However, travelling by train, you can cut that number down dramatically to just 0.05 metric tons.
Of course, travelling to Crete by train is not quick. Depending on where you start, budget two or three days. Coming from London would see you catching the Eurostar to Paris and then a train to Milan in Italy. From there, a coastal train takes you to Bari where there’s an overnight boat to Patra on the Peloponnese. Or train from Paris to Venice, then boat to Patra. From Patra, a bus takes you to Athens’ port at Piraeus where you catch the Crete-bound ferry. See www.raileurope.com for more routes and tickets.
It’s also possible to travel by train all the way to Athens from London/Paris via Munich, Zagreb, Belgrade and Thessaloniki, or via Budapest, Sofia and Thessaloniki. The excellent website www.seat61.com has comprehensive details.
Train
You can reach Athens from London/Paris on a fascinating rail route via Munich, Zagreb, Belgrade and Thessaloniki, or via Budapest, Sofia and Thessaloniki. Or train to the western coast of Italy (there are connections throughout most of Europe) to Bari, Brinidisi, Ancona or Venice, and then take a ferry to Patra in the Peloponnese, bus to Athens’ port at Piraeus and ferry from there to Crete.
Eurail (www.eurail.com) Greece is part of the Eurail network. Eurail passes can only be bought by residents of non-European countries and are supposed to be purchased before arriving in Europe, but they can also be bought in Europe if your passport proves that you’ve been here for less than six months. The Attica Pass includes four domestic ferry trips in Greece and two international ferry trips between Greece and Italy. See the website for full details of passes and prices.
Inter-Rail Pass (www.interrailnet.com) Greece is also part of the Inter-Rail Pass system, available to those who have resided in Europe for six months or more.
OSE (Organismos Sidirodromon Ellados; www.trainose.gr) The Greek railways organisation OSE has been seriously affected by the country’s financial problems. The situation is variable, so check ahead.
Sea
Services are considerably curtailed from November to April.
Iraklio & Hania Crete is well served by ferry, with at least one daily departure from the port at Piraeus (near Athens) to Iraklio and Hania year-round and three or four per day in summer. Faster catamarans connect Iraklio to Santorini, Mykonos and other Cycladic Islands. Ferries sail east from Iraklio to Rhodes via Agios Nikolaos, Sitia, Kasos, Karpathos and Halki.
Kissamos (Kastelli) This small western port is connected with Kythira, Antikythira and Gythio (in the Peloponnese) and Piraeus (by a very slow route).
Sitia Two slow ferries a week from Sitia in the east serve Iraklio, Milos, Piraeus, Santorini and Rhodes. Four ferries a week connect Sitia and Kasos and Karpathos.
FERRY COMPANIES
Anek Lines (www.anek.gr) To/from Piraeus; one weekly ferry to the Cyclades operated by affiliated Aegeon Pelagos company.
Hellenic Seaways (www.hellenicseaways.gr) High-speed services to the Cyclades.
LANE Lines (www.lane.gr) Long-haul ferries to/from Piraeus from Kissamos.
Minoan Lines (www.minoan.gr) High-speed luxury ferries to/from Piraeus.
Sea Jets (www.seajets.gr) High-speed catamarans to/from the Cyclades.
Tickets
Timetables change from season to season, and ferries are subject to delays and cancellations at short notice due to bad weather, strikes or mechanical problems. Check www.openseas.gr for schedules.
During high season, or if you’re bringing a car, book well in advance, especially for overnight and high-speed catamaran services.
Tickets are best purchased online either from the ferry company directly or through a booking engine such as www.greekferries.gr and www.ferries.gr.
If a service is cancelled, you can transfer your ticket to the next available service with that company.
Prices are determined by the distance and the class, which ranges from deck class to double-berth outside cabins.
Children, students and seniors usually qualify for discounts ranging from 10% to 50%. Children under the age of five often travel free.
Yacht
Although yachting is a popular way to explore the Greek islands, Crete is a long way from other islands and does not have a huge yachting industry. The sailing season lasts from April until October; however, between July and September the meltemi winds can ground you regularly.
Tours
Another way to visit Greece by sea is to join one of the many cruises or package tours and holidays that come to Crete.
Getting Around
Air
Sky Express (www.skyexpress.gr) has occasional flights between Sitia and Iraklio.
Bicycle
Cycling is becoming more common in Crete, but the often-hilly terrain means you need strong leg muscles and endurance. You can hire bikes in most tourist areas. Prices range from €10 to €20 per day. Bicycles are carried free on ferries. For more details, as well as information on mountain-biking tours, see www.cycling.gr.
Boat
Boats link the towns along Crete’s southwestern coast in the Sfakia region of Hania. Some of the villages are only accessible by sea. Some boats are passenger-only, others carry cars.
Anendyk (www.anendyk.gr) In summer there are daily Anendyk boats between Paleohora, Sougia, Agia Roumeli, Loutro and Hora Sfakion, in both directions. Boats to Gavdos Island leave from Hora Sfakion and Paleohora, sometimes stopping in Sougia, Agia Roumeli or Loutro en route. Schedules change seasonally; always check ahead.
Tourist Boats Run excursions to offshore islands and nearby beaches, including Ierapetra to Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi) Island, Agios Nikolaos to Spinalonga Island, Kissamos to the Gramvousa Peninsula (Balos beach), and Paleohora to Elafonisi.
Taxi Boats Taxi boats operate in several southern coastal towns. These are essentially small speedboats that transport people to places that are difficult to get to by land. Some owners charge a set price for each person, and others charge a flat rate for the boat.
Bus
Buses are the only form of public transport in Crete, but a fairly extensive network makes it relatively easy to travel around the island. Fares are government-regulated and quite reasonable by European standards. For schedules, which change monthly, and prices, check www.bus-service-crete-ktel.com for western Crete and www.ktelherlas.gr for central and eastern Crete.
There’s hourly service along the main northern coastal road and less-frequent buses to the inland villages and towns on the south coast. Buses also go to major tourist attractions, including Knossos, Phaestos, Moni Arkadiou, Moni Preveli, Omalos (for Samaria Gorge) and Hora Sfakion. In summer only there are once-daily buses to famous beaches such as Elafonisi.
Larger towns usually have a central, covered bus station with waiting rooms, toilets and a snack bar. In small towns and villages the ‘bus station’ may be no more than a stop outside a kafeneio (coffee house) or taverna, which often doubles as a ticket office. If not, or if it’s closed, you can buy your ticket on the bus.
Car & Motorcycle
Having your own wheels is a great way to explore Crete if you can brave the roads and drivers.
Hire car and motorcycle companies abound.
In remote areas (particularly the south) you’ll still find unpaved roads that are only suitable for 4WDs. Take care on narrow and windy mountain roads.
Crete is a large island and the distances, erratic drivers and rough roads can make hard work for motorcyclists.
Beyond the main highways roads are generally badly signposted. When signs exist, they are usually marked in Greek and English (the English phonetic sign follows a few metres after the Greek) except in remote areas. Beware: spelling of place names can vary wildly from names on maps.
Invest in a good map; even the best don’t cover all side roads.
Automobile Associations
The Greek automobile association ELPA (%10400; www.elpa.gr) offers reciprocal services to members of national automobile associations who hold a valid membership card.
Driving Licences
Drivers with an EU driving licence can use it to drive in Crete.
If your driving licence is from outside the EU, you technically need to obtain an International Driving Permit (IDP) before you leave home; check with your local automobile association. In practice, many car-hire companies will accept licences from Europe and North America, but the police may not.
Motorcycle hire requires a licence that shows proficiency to ride the category of bike you wish to rent; this applies to everything from 50cc up.
Fuel & Spare Parts
Fuel is widely available in Crete, but service stations may be closed on Sunday and public holidays. Self-service pumps are not the norm in Greece, nor are credit-card pumps, and out-of-the-way stations don’t take plastic at all, so it is always advisable to keep the tank topped up.
Spare parts can be tricky to find, especially if you are in the more remote parts of the island. For a referral to the nearest dealer ask at a service station or call ELPA on 10400.
Hire
Car
Crete has cheaper car hire than many islands due to the level of competition.
All the major international companies have branches at airports and in the towns, but you usually get a better deal if you hire from a local company and negotiate.
By Greek law, rental cars have to be replaced every six years, so most vehicles you rent will be relatively new.
The minimum driving age in Greece is 18 years, but most car hire firms require you to be at least 21, or 23 for larger vehicles.
Rates for car hire vary quite considerably by model, pick-up date and location, but you should be able to get an economy-size vehicle from about €35 per day, plus insurance and taxes. Expect surcharges for additional drivers and one-way hire.
Child or infant safety seats may be hired for about €5 per day and should be reserved at the time of booking.
Most hire cars are manual, so book ahead if you need an automatic car as they are rare and usually more expensive.
Always check what the insurance includes; there are often rough roads or dangerous routes that you can only tackle by renting a 4WD.
Even with a credit card, many hire companies will require a deposit (€120 per day or up).
Motorcycle
Mopeds, motorcycles and scooters are available for hire wherever there are tourists to rent them. Most machines are newish and in good condition. Nonetheless, check the brakes at the earliest opportunity.
You must produce a licence that shows proficiency to ride the category of bike you wish to rent; this applies to everything from 50cc up. British citizens must obtain a Category A licence from the Driver & Vehicle Licensing Agency (www.dft.gov.uk/dvla) in the UK (in most other EU countries separate licences are automatically issued).
Rates start from about €15 per day for a moped or 50cc motorcycle, to €30 per day for a 250cc motorcycle. Out of season these prices drop considerably.
Most motorcycle hire companies include third-party insurance in the price, but it’s wise to check this. This insurance will not include medical expenses.
Helmets are compulsory and rental agencies are obliged to offer one as part of the hire deal.
Insurance
Third-party liability insurance is compulsory for all vehicles in Greece, including cars brought in from abroad. When hiring a vehicle, make sure your contract includes adequate liability insurance. Car hire agencies almost never include insurance that covers damage to the vehicle itself, called Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) or Loss Damage Waiver (LDW). It’s optional, but driving without it is not recommended. Some credit-card companies cover CDW/LDW for a certain period if you charge the entire rental to your card. Always confirm with your card issuer ahead of time what coverage it provides in Greece.
Road Hazards
The main danger of driving in Crete lies in the local driving culture and rough roads. Road rules are routinely ignored and there is barely any police presence.
Cretan drivers are generally erratic. Expect to be tailgated, honked at and aggressively and illegally overtaken if you move too slowly. Overtaking on bends and ignoring double lines and stop signs is prevalent.
Slower drivers are expected to straddle the narrow service lane and let the traffic pass.
Try to avoid night driving; drink-driving laws are barely enforced so roads are dangerous.
Road surfaces change unexpectedly when a section of road has succumbed to subsidence or weathering.
In the mountains, expect to stop for herds of sheep or goats on the road.
Many falling rock zones are not signposted, nor hemmed with tarps; keep eyes open for loose rocks on the road.
Road Rules
In Greece, as throughout Continental Europe, you drive on the right and overtake on the left.
On roads, hard shoulders are used for driving, especially when being overtaken. Move over if someone wants to pass you or if you’re being tailgated.
Outside built-up areas, traffic on a main road has right of way at intersections. In towns, vehicles coming from the right have right of way. This includes roundabouts – even if you’re in the roundabout, you must give way to drivers coming onto the roundabout to your right.
Seat belts must be worn in front seats, and in back seats if the car is fitted with them.
Children under 12 years of age are not allowed in the front seat.
It is compulsory to carry a first-aid kit, fire extinguisher and warning (hazard) triangle, and it is forbidden to carry cans of petrol.
Helmets are compulsory for motorcyclists if the motorcycle is 50cc or more. Police will book you if you’re caught without a helmet.
Outside residential areas the speed limit is 120km/h on highways, 90km/h on other roads and 50km/h in built-up areas. The speed limit for motorcycles up to 100cc is 70km/h, and for larger motorcycles, 90km/h. Drivers exceeding the speed limit by 20% are liable to receive a fine of €60; exceeding it by 40% costs €150.
Traffic fines are not paid on the spot – you will be told where to pay.
A blood-alcohol content of 0.05% can incur a fine of €150, and over 0.08% is a criminal offence.
If you are involved in an accident and no one is hurt, the police will not be required to write a report, but it is advisable to go to a nearby police station and explain what happened. You may need a police report for insurance purposes. If an accident involves injury, a driver who does not stop and does not inform the police may face a prison sentence.
Driving in the major cities and small towns is a nightmare of erratic one-way streets, double parking and irregularly enforced parking rules. Cars are not towed away but fines can be expensive.
Designated parking for disabled drivers is a rarity.
Hitching
Hitching is never entirely safe, and we don’t recommend it. Travellers who hitch should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk. If you decide to hitch, remember that it’s safer to travel in pairs and be sure to inform someone of your intended destination. In Crete you don’t hitch with your thumb up as in northern Europe, but with an outstretched hand, palm down to the road.
Getting out of major cities tends to be hard work; hitching is much easier in remote areas. On country roads, it is not unknown for someone to stop and ask if you want a lift even if you haven’t asked for one.
Local Transport
Bus
City buses operating around Iraklio, Rethymno and Hania service mostly the residential suburbs and thus are rarely useful for visitors. Tickets are normally bought at periptera (kiosks) or from the driver.
Taxi
Taxis are widely available except in remote villages, and are relatively cheap by European standards. Large towns have taxi stands that post a list of prices to outlying destinations, which removes anxiety about overcharging. Otherwise, in cities make sure the meter is used. Rural taxis often do not have meters, so you should always settle on a price before getting in.