The Scene

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Planning | Knightsbridge, Chelsea, and South Kensington | St. James’s and Mayfair | Soho and Covent Garden | Specialty Stores

Updated by Ellin Stein

As befits one of the great trading capitals of the world, London’s shops have been known to boast, “You name it, we sell it.” Finding and buying “it” can be a delight (the private fitting rooms at couturier Vivienne Westwood) or a trial (mobbed Oxford Street sales on a Saturday morning). No matter where you end up, you’ll find plenty to tempt you. You can shop like royalty at Her Majesty’s lingerie supplier, track down a leather-bound copy of Wuthering Heights at a Charing Cross bookseller, or find flea-market goodies on Portobello Road. Whether you’re out for fun—there’s nothing like the size, variety, and sheer street theater of the markets to stimulate the acquisitive instinct—or for fashion, London can be the most rewarding of hunting grounds.

Although it’s impossible to pin down one particular look that defines the city, London style tends to fall into two camps: one is the quirky, individualistic, somewhat romantic look that draws on the city’s Punk, Mod, and Boho heritage, exemplified by homegrown designers like Vivienne Westwood, Matthew Williamson, Liberty, and Temperley. The other reflects Britain’s celebrated tradition of highly tailored classics, with labels like Mulberry, Paul Smith, and Burberry giving them a modern twist. The real thing can be found in the menswear stores of Jermyn Street and Savile Row—there’s no better place in the city to buy custom-made shirts and suits. If your budget can’t stretch to Savile Row, no problem; the city’s chain stores like Topshop, Warehouse, Reiss, and Zara are excellent places to pick up designs copied straight from the catwalk, at a fraction of the price.

For buzzy fashionistas, the trick to smart shopping is to sniff out the most fashion-forward, on-trend places. Amazingly, the very designers that have revived London’s Cool Britannia fashion luster—Beatle progeny Stella McCartney, mad hatter Philip Treacy, and local genius Alexander McQueen—are the ones that have updated the fashion mojo of the new generation of royal Windsors. For her go-to brands, Kate—the new Duchess of Cambridge—likes various High Street stores: Zara, Reiss, L.K. Bennett, and Whistles. But when nearly 2 billion pairs of eyes are watching, the future queen needs a headline-making wedding gown and for that she had the foresight to head to the House of McQueen.

The genius of the late, much-lamented designer was to take a St. Martin’s art school foundation and use that skill-set to become a phenomenal dress designer. In December 2011, this truth was spectacularly dramatized in a window of McQueen’s Mayfair couture salon (where Kate’s bridal gown was created by Sarah Burton) showcasing a ball gown made of white tulle and topped with a bustier composed of a mosaic of real Victorian-pattern pottery, cracked into a hundred tiny pieces. Fashion as fine art. The lucky lady who bagged this paralyzingly high priced number probably exclaimed “I’ve been framed!”

Apart from bankrupting yourself, the only problem you may encounter is exhaustion. London’s shopping districts are spread out all over the city, so do as savvy locals do: plan your excursion with military precision, taking in only one or two areas in a day, and stop for a lunch with a glass of wine or a pint at a pub. If not, there’s a good chance you’ll wind up losing a few pounds while you race across the city shedding a goodly number of pounds sterling buying up a storm.

Planning

Opening Hours

Most shops are open from about 9:30 or 10 am to 6 or 6:30 pm. Some may open at 11 and stay open until 7. Because shop hours, particularly for the smaller shops, are varied, it’s a good idea to phone ahead. Stores that have late shopping—and not all do—are usually open until 7 or 8 pm on Wednesday or Thursday only. Most department stores stay open late during the week. On Sunday, many shops open between 11 am and noon and close at 5 or 6 pm. Most stores are open on Sunday in December for the Christmas season.

Watch Your Language

Locals like to say that Brits and Americans are separated by a common language. Here are a few confusing terms to watch for when out and about in the shops:

Pants means underwear. Every other type of long-legged bottoms (except jeans) are called trousers.

Knickers are ladies’ underwear. If you want pantyhose, ask for tights.

Jumper means sweater—unless it’s a cardigan, in which case it’s often shortened to cardie. If you ask for a sweater, you may be offered a sweatshirt.

Men use braces to hold up their trousers; in England suspenders is another word for garters.

If you want some Adidas- or Nike-type athletic shoes, ask for trainers, not sneakers.

Don’t ask for a pocketbook or a purse if you mean a handbag—the former will be incomprehensible, and the latter will produce a coin purse.

Nightgowns are usually abbreviated to nighties and bathrobes may be dressing gowns.


Know Your Shopping Personality

“Where is the best place to shop in London?” There are thousands of shops in the city, and dozens of neighborhoods worth shopping in. Start by identifying your shopping personality to narrow your choices for a successful outing.

Easygoing. If you want to pop in and out of a variety of shops, as well as avoid the crowds around Oxford Street, head to the King’s Road in Chelsea. You’ll find department store Peter Jones, plus Marks & Spencer and plenty of chains and trendy boutiques. Another safe bet is High Street Kensington for the usual big chains, in addition to some smaller ones less oriented toward disposable fashion, such as Cos, Karen Millen, and Oliver Bonas.

Eclectic. If you don’t want to be pinned down and prefer beautiful workmanship and originality, start at Liberty on Regent Street, then head to either the Holland Park/Notting Hill, Marylebone, or Covent Garden neighborhoods. All provide enough idiosyncratic lifestyle shops for hours of browsing.

Fashionista. When only the top designers will do, start at Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge, then take in the designer boutiques along Sloane Street before hopping on the Tube for Green Park. From there you can cover Bond Street (both Old and New), and finish at Fenwick, or veer off onto Conduit Street, designer-heavy Bruton Street, or, at the northwest end of Berkeley Square, ultrachic Mount Street. If you still have time and energy, check out South Molton Street opposite Bond Street Tube or St. Christopher’s Place across Oxford Street.

Funky and Avant-Garde. For cutting-edge fashion and homewares, head east to the city’s coolest neighborhoods, chiefly Hoxton and Shoreditch. Start at Columbia Road for the flower market and lovely shops on the street, then have a wander around Spitalfields and Brick Lane for their excellent street markets. Work your way north to Hoxton and Shoreditch, chock-full of out-of-the-mainstream stores. Right in the center of town, also check out the Newburgh Quarter, right off Carnaby Street (off Regent): this warren of cobblestoned streets is lined with the hippest shops in town.

Whirlwind. If you’re after a one-stop shopping experience, head to one of London’s biggest department stores. Selfridges and Liberty are near the Bond Street and Oxford Circus Tube stations, while Harvey Nichols and Harrods share the Knightsbridge Tube station.


A Word about Service

American standards of customer service are rare in London—you may find attentive customer service at old-school, traditional names and some independent stores, but salespeople elsewhere can seem abrupt or indifferent.

Knightsbridge, Chelsea, and South Kensington

Dream of British ultraluxury—Burberry, Pringle, Harvey Nichols, and Harrods—and you’ll think of this region, one of the most exclusive shopping areas in London. Expect to find yummy mummies with money to burn, Russian heiresses, and Middle Eastern sheiks, along with plenty of chauffeur-driven Bentleys idling outside stores.

Start at the top of Sloane Street, which has all the big designer names. As you head south toward Chelsea or South Kensington, you’ll find more independent boutiques and plenty of cafés perfect for a shopping break. Even if your bank account has fewer zeros than you’d like, head down to the eastern end of King’s Road for all the home design and antiques shops. You never know, you might just score a bargain, or, at the very least, come away with some new ideas. Alternatively, at the western end, are some great affordable chains: Jigsaw, Whistles, and Warehouse.

Best Time to Go

Weekends are crowded, so try to hit the shops midweek for a calmer experience. On the other hand, people-watching is part of the true Kensington and Chelsea experience, so take your time and soak it all up. The biannual sales, in January and July, make shops busy no matter what the day.

Best Find for Your Best Friend

For something affordable in these neighborhoods, pick up a beautifully packaged bottle of Grapefruit or Vintage Gardenia perfume at Jo Malone. A box of luxury correspondence cards from Smythson is another classic gift.

Refueling

Chic ladies sip lattes and nibble on goat-cheese tarts or a salad Niçoise at Aubaine, a simple yet elegant French café and boulangerie. For something more substantial, tuck into a hearty meal at Admiral Codrington, a gastropub known as “The Cod” to the locals.

You can’t go wrong with an order of crispy fish-and-chips served with chive butter, or salmon and crab cakes, all washed down with a pint of beer or a glass of wine.

What You’ll Want

True Brit

Harrods. Swanky, plush, and deep-carpeted as ever, it earns its motto—“Omnia, omnibus, ubique” (“everything, for everyone, everywhere”)—thanks to its 230 departments.

Pringle of Scotland. There’s nothing dowdy here. The traditional plaids still crop up, but the latest designs are edgy and cool.

A Sensual Affair

Rigby and Peller. The Queen’s corsetiere offers a selection of highest-quality lingerie and fitting expertise second to none.

Agent Provocateur.Want to get your wife to wear sexy and saucy lingerie? Take her here to stock up on their lushly alluring night wear.

Trendsetters

All Saints. Limited stock and fresh-from-the-catwalk designs here mean original looks—you won’t be walking around looking like everyone else.

Austique. For the überfeminine London shopper, look no further than this two-floor boutique on the King’s Road, which offers chic dresses and accessories.

Harvey Nichols. The capital’s chicest, most high-end department store is a must.

St. James’s and Mayfair

Royal Shopabouts once began and ended in the stores hereabout that had the “By Appointment to…” logo discreetly lettered on their windows. Today, however, plenty of hot young designers have also set up shop here and are busy updating the fashion mojo of the newest royals. So, if you want to keep up with the Windsors, just head here.

Fabled addresses—like St. James’s Jermyn Street—still retain their lost-in-time quality and give off a vibe that seems unchanged since Edwardian times. But even ageless Savile Row—synonymous with custom-made suits—now moves to a new beat: Prince Charles and rocker David Bowie have their clothing made there. In fact, the hottest names on the London catwalks have their headquarters here—Alexander McQueen’s flagship store is at 4–5 Old Bond Street, Mayfair, and, nearby, Stella McCartney’s collections are showcased in a townhouse at 30 Bruton Street.

Best Time to Go

Because this area covers some of the most exclusive shopping streets in the capital, don’t expect huge crowds. South Molton Street can get a bit busy, whereas the area surrounding Jermyn Street is relatively quiet. Many of the independent stores are closed on Sunday.

Best Find for Your Dad

Long-established shirt maker Hilditch & Key makes bespoke and ready-to-wear dress shirts. Alternatively, for something a bit less expensive, pick up a formal shirt from Thomas Pink or Charles Tyrhwhitt.

Refueling

Nicole’s restaurant in the basement of the Nicole Farhi shop is ideal for a quick lunch between purchases. The two-story restaurant was designed by Ms. Farhi, as was the menu, which features modern British cuisine with a California twist. For the quickest service, head to the upper level; reservations are recommended for the more formal dining room. Or pop in for a glass of wine at the 1707 Wine Bar inside Fortnum & Mason, one of four restaurants in what’s known as the Queen’s grocery store.

What You’ll Want

Cool Britannia

Alexander McQueen. When Kate Middleton married Prince William, the future queen had to go to McQueen to find the best of British style, now headed by design genius Sarah Burton.

Vivienne Westwood. The queen of punk fashion reigns in a boutique stuffed with Punk-Pompadour gowns, Lady Hamilton vest coats, and other fabulously foppish get-ups.

Paul Smith. This furniture and curio shop has the same quirky aesthetic as the classics-with-a-twist clothing for which the designer is known.

Burberry. This once hidebound landmark label is now super-chic thanks to Christopher Bailey, the designer who transformed it into the British Gucci.

The Frill is Gone

Stella McCartney. Sophisticated and sexy, these fashions are for women who like to frock-around-the-clock with cool lines and a cooler vibe.

Mackintosh. “Seams like old times” at this resurrected Victorian-era designer of the first rubberized raincoat but these astonishingly modern designs fit right into today.

Soho and Covent Garden

If London has a buzzy, one-size-fits-all area that would make most fashionistas happy, it is Soho and Covent Garden: they both have a mix of achingly trendy boutiques and stylish chains such as Zara and H&M.

True, Soho may be better known for its restaurants than for its shops, but it is also home to many independent boutiques. Indeed, if you want to track down the next Alexander McQueen, just head to the Newburgh Quarter, set one block east of Carnaby Street (just off roaring Regent Street). This charming maze of pedestrian lanes is lined with an array of specialist boutiques, edgy stores, and young indy upstarts where the future of England’s fashion is being incubated. A check of their ingredients reveals one part 60s London, one part Futuristic Fetishism, one part Dickensian charm, and one part British street swagger. Check out stores like Beyond the Valley, Peckham Rye, Sweaty Betty, and Lucy in Disguise to see what all the fuss is about. Other top spots: Covent Garden’s Piazza, Neal’s Yard courtyard, Seven Dials (Monmouth Street has lots of offbeat delights), nearby Floral Street (home to United Nude), and Neal Street.

Best Time to Go

It’s almost always crowded, so go with the flow—or get there early in the morning.

Best Find for Your Anglophile Friend

Couldn’t make it to Scotland this trip? Leave room in your luggage for a bottle or two of single-malt whisky from Milroy’s of Soho, on Greek Street, which stocks whiskies from every distillery in Scotland. Or stop by the Tea House on Neal Street, which sells more than 100 varieties of tea along with pots and mugs to make the perfect brew and the perfect gift.

Refueling

Wahaca serves delicious yet inexpensive dishes inspired by Mexican street food. The wait for a seat is worth it, and you’ll have money left over to continue shopping your way through Covent Garden. If you’re looking for a caffeine jolt, head to Monmouth Coffee, which roasts all its own beans and boasts some of the best coffee around, or pick up some delectable cheese to nibble on from the nearby Neal’s Yard Dairy.

What You’ll Want

Books and Prints

Foyles. This bibliophile’s wonderland has everything from art history to opera scores.

Stanfords. With the British long known as fabled explorers, it is little wonder London boasts the world’s best travel bookshop.

Quirky Cool

Peckham Rye. Imagine Brideshead Revisted “legacy” looks given a mod spin and the results are on view here, a top stop in the cutting-edge Newburgh Quarter.

b store. Models flock here for the ever-changing stock of clothing and accessories by emerging talent.

United Nude. Innovative, surprisingly comfortable shoes incorporate up-to-the minute materials.

Toys R Them

Benjamin Pollock’s Toyshop. Billionaires buy the antique toy theaters on sale in this legendary and historic emporium, while the rest of us adore the new paper reproductions, complete with dollhouse sets for The Mikado.

Hamleys. The city’s biggest toy store is heaven to most children, although adults may be less enchanted with the highly commercial emphasis.

Specialty Stores

Antiques

Investment-quality items or lovable junk—London has loads. For the best range of merchandise, and plenty of character, try the markets first. Some argue that Portobello Road in Notting Hill has become a bit of a tourist trap, but if you acknowledge that it’s a circus and get into the spirit, it’s a lot of fun. Kensington Church Street and the shops along the King’s Road have some of the best antiques in the city, but the prices are high, unless you’re willing to wake up early and try your luck at the Lots Road Auction, near the swanky Chelsea Design Centre. Also stop by Alfie’s Antique Market in Marylebone. The nearby small shops lining Church Street sell everything from large-scale 19th-century English and European furniture to art deco ceramics and vintage shop fittingsTIP Opening times vary: many places that are open on the weekend are closed Monday or Tuesday.


Vintage London

The British, with their love of theatrical style, have embraced the trend for vintage clothing with particular gusto. Even mainstream places, like Liberty, Selfridges, and Topshop, all have vintage sections. And don’t forget the retro finds to be found at Camden Market, Portobello Road, Brick Lane/Spitalfields, and the following top shops.

Absolute Vintage.
Absolute Vintage is a warehouse of handpicked items from the 1930s through the 1980s, but the specialty here is shoes (more than 1,000 pairs) and bags. Best of all, prices are reasonable. There’s a branch on Berwick Street in Soho. | 15 Hanbury St. , Spitalfields/East End | E1 6QR | 020/7247–3883 |
www.absolutevintage.co.uk | Station: Aldgate East, Liverpool St.

Beyond Retro.
Beyond Retro stocks more than 10,000 vintage items for men and women. From bowling shirts to prom dresses, they’ve got the United Kingdom’s largest collection of American retro. There’s another outpost in Soho. | 110–112 Cheshire St. , Spitalfields/East End | E2 6EJ | 020/7729–9001 | www.beyondretro.com | Station: Shoreditch High St., Whitechapel.

Blitz.
“Seams” like old times? It certain does at the world’s first (self-proclaimed) “vintage department store.” This vast former furniture factory now has separate floors devoted to antiques and vintage clothing. Look for racks filled with Marlboro Man leather jackets, sequined Indian silk tops, Sgt Pepper band uniforms, and Liberty shirts. | 98 55 Hanbury St. , East End | E1 5JP | 020/377–0730 | Station: Bethnal Green.

Orsini.
Eveningwear with Hollywood-style glamour is the trademark at this tiny but choice boutique, with clothes from the 1920s to the 1970s. Victoria Beckham is a fan. | 76 Earl’s Court Rd. , Kensington | W8 6EQ | 020/7937–2903 | Station: Earl’s Court.

Palette London.
Every piece of clothing at Palette London is in immaculate condition. Owner Mark Ellis sells vintage Ossie Clark, Missoni, Pucci, as well as Chanel from the 1940s up to the ‘90s and new European designers. His selection of ‘80s Betsey Johnson is particularly strong. | 21 Canonbury La. , Islington | N1 2AS | 020/7288–7428 | www.palette-london.com | Station: Highbury & Islington.

Rellik.
Today favored by the likes of Kate Moss, Rellik began as a stall in the Portobello Market. Vintage hunters looking to splurge can find a selection of YSL, Alaia, and Dior. Prices range from £30 to £1,000. | 8 Golborne Rd. , Notting Hill | W10 5NW | 020/8962–0089 | www.relliklondon.co.uk | Station: Westbourne Park.

Rokit.
Rokit consists of two shops along Brick Lane that stock everything from handbags and ball gowns to jeans, military garb, and Western wear, from the 1920s to the 1990s. Magazine and rock stylists love it. Branches are in Camden and Covent Garden. | 101 and 107 Brick La. , Spitalfields/East End | E1 6SE | 020/7375–3864 | www.rokit.co.uk | Station: Shoreditch High St.

Virginia.
Virginia Bates’s collection of vintage clothing may be the best in London. Dresses, hats, and accessories from the late Victorian era (circa 1880) to the early 1930s are available. | 98 Portland Rd. , Holland Park | W11 4LQ | 020/7727–9908 | Closed Sun.; open Sat. by appointment only | Station: Holland Park, Ladbroke Grove.


Beauty

Skin-care junkies and perfume fans will be hard-pressed to walk away empty-handed from London’s beauty emporiums. Visitors should try to visit at least one of London’s most venerable perfumeries—the old-school favorites Floris or Penhaligon, as well as relative newcomers like Miller Harris or Jo Malone. Space NK stocks upscale, hard-to-find cosmetic and skin-care brands while fans of natural beauty products flock to London’s organic pioneer, Neal’s Yard Remedies.

Books and Prints

Books—actual, physical books— are still popular in London and most decent London neighborhoods have a Waterstone’s or local independent, some complete with coffee shops and, in some cases, even cocktail bars.

The English gentleman’s library, with its glass-front cabinets full of rare leather-bound books, may be a cliché from films and books, but there’s no denying that London is also one of the world’s great centers for rare-book collectors. Bloomsbury, around London University and the British Museum, is noted for its used and specialist bookstores, as is Charing Cross Road and its offshoot pedestrian alley Cecil Court (see www.cecilcourt.co.uk for a full list of the shops in this unique enclave). Other well-respected specialists reside in Mayfair, while more humble used books can be found on the tables outside the British Film Institute in Southbank.

Clothing

Like Paris and New York, London is one of the world’s fashion capitals, and every designer you’ve ever heard of is available. But it’s the city’s eccentric street style that gives fashion here its special edge. Instead of the put-together chic that appeals to many French and Italian women, many British women aim for experimentation and individuality, and many of the trends that show up on European catwalks really begin in London. What makes London clothes shopping so much fun—for both men and women—is that you can buy high-quality traditional British clothing, bespoke tailoring, leading contemporary fashion labels, exquisite vintage clothing, and outrageous directional street style without traveling farther than a couple of Tube stops.

London has shops to dress women in style whether their taste is trendy or traditional, and their budget rummage or royal. Chains like Miss Selfridge, Topshop, New Look, and Warehouse take aim at the young, adventurous, and slim; Hobbs, Whistles, L.K. Bennett, Joseph, Reiss, and Jaeger provide updated classics for the more sophisticated; and fashion-oriented department stores—Harvey Nichols, Harrods, Selfridges, Liberty, Fenwick—cater to women of all ages and tastes. The hottest names on the London catwalks have their headquarters here—Alexander McQueen’s flagship store is at 4–5 Old Bond Street, Mayfair, and, nearby, Stella McCartney’s collections are showcased in a town house at 30 Bruton Street. The Newburgh Quarter is home to the next generation’s McQueens and McCartneys.

When it comes to stylish accessories, whether a sturdy umbrella, a traditional hat, or a bag that will last a lifetime, London’s specialists are known for their high level of craftsmanship—and today’s designers like Philip Treacy, Bill Amberg, and Anya Hindmarch draw on centuries of expertise.

London’s menswear is considered even more trendsetting than its womenwear. The department stores have good menswear departments, but Selfridges and Liberty deserve special mention for interesting designer offerings. London’s Savile Row tailors are still the spot where a man orders a bespoke suit once he has really “arrived,” but British style has loosened up considerably in recent years. Ozwald Boateng, with his sharp tailoring and colorful suit linings, is typical of the new wave of bespoke tailors along with Richard James. Those with more flash than cash should seek out the trendsetting fashion chains: Topman, Reiss, and Zara.

Finally, several popular chains, including H&M, Next, Monsoon, and Zara, have cheap and cheerful children’s lines. In select Jigsaw branches, Jigsaw Junior has classics with a twist for girls. London parents swear by no-nonsense department store John Lewis, on Oxford Street, for fair prices and high-quality goods. But if you’re looking for something more than run of the mill, expect to pay for it.


London Shopping Steals and Deals

Even at the best of times London has never been known as a budget-shopping destination, and when the pound is strong prices can seem stratospheric. However, whatever the exchange rate, there are still bargains to be had as long as you know where, and when, to look. To get the maximum mileage out of your cash, visit during the widespread biannual sales, which kick off in late June and just after Christmas, and last about a month.

Fashion insiders attend the many sales held throughout the year, from big warehouse clearances, such as the Designer Warehouse Sales (www.designerwarehousesales.com) and Designer Sales UK (www.designersales.co.uk), to individual designers’ sample sales—check out www.fashionconfidential.co.uk, www.dailycandy.com/London or Time Out (www.timeout.com) for information, and to register for updates. London outlets, such as Browns Labels for Less, Paul Smith Sale Shop, and the Joseph Sale Shop on King’s Road, offer year-round designer bargains. If time permits, travel outside London to Bicester Village (www.bicestervillage.com), a luxury outlet mall in Oxfordshire. It’s completely worth the nearly one-hour train journey, if only for the opportunity to score an item from such highly coveted British brands as Alexander McQueen, Temperley, Mulberry, Burberry and Aquascutum, as well as top international labels.

If you’re not fussy about labels, there are even more choices.

Pokit.
Contemporary tailors Pokit offer sharp but comfortable made-to-measure suits for men and women from just £800 (jackets £500), plus a wide range of leather goods. | 132 Wardour St. , Soho | W1F 8ZW | 020/7434–2875 | www.pokit.co.uk | Closed Sun. | Station: Tottenham Court Rd., Oxford Circus.

Primark.
Primark is fantastic for low-cost, trendy clothing. At the huge, two-story Oxford Street flagship (there are other branches in Hammersmith and Kilburn), keep in mind you get what you pay for; some of the fabrics and finishes reflect the store’s budget prices. This is the home of fast, youthful, disposable fashion, so don’t expect attentive service or classic styling and you won’t be disappointed. | 499 Oxford St. , Soho | W1K 7DA | 020/7495–0420 | www.primark.co.uk | Station: Marble Arch.


Department Stores

London’s department stores range from Harrods—which every visitor is obliged to visit— through many serviceable middle-range stores, with a something-for-everyone range. The best are Liberty, John Lewis, Selfridges, Harrods, and Harvey Nichols.

Food and Drink

London excels at posh nosh, and the selection has gotten even bigger with European integration—but be prepared to pay quite a lot for gourmet goods. The Food Halls at Harrods are internationally famous, almost as much for the beautiful displays and ceramic-tile ceilings as for the packaged teas, chocolates, biscuits, fresh produce, fish, and game. Selfridges is less daunting but more international in its selection, and the grande dame of London food halls is Fortnum & Mason. Marks & Spencer, almost as well known for its high-quality ready-made meals as its underwear, has M&S Simply Food stores around town.

Home Decor

London’s main department stores have just about everything you might need; John Lewis, on Oxford Street is especially good for practical items, such as kitchen equipment. For something more unusual, head to Cheshire Street in the East End. Independent home-design shops have sprouted up here over the past few years, including the wonderfully British Labour & Wait, which sells stylish yet practical goods. Some are open only on weekends, when the Brick Lane and Spitalfields markets bring customers to the area.

Jewelry

If you are suddenly overcome with the need to invest in serious rocks, London won’t let you down. All the major international players are here: Cartier, Tiffany, Bulgari, Fred, Boucheron, De Beers, Van Cleef and Arpels, Graff, David Morris, and Britain’s own Mappin & Webb among them. Bond Street, in particular, is good hunting grounds for megawatt stocking fillers. TIP Bargain hunters who know their gems head for Hatton Garden, London’s traditional diamond center. It’s lined with small, independent dealers. For a selection of unusual designer jewelry under one roof, try Liberty, Selfridges, or Fenwick. Links of London, a widespread chain, is a good bet for classic sterling silver and gold pieces, especially charm bracelets and cuff links, and Melissa McArthur Jewellery is a fantastic little shop in Chelsea for purchasing beautifully handmade earrings or a necklace—all for prices that won’t leave you gasping.


Bring a Bit of England Home

To avoid panic-buying a bulk pack of Cadbury chocolate at Heathrow, it’s wise to plan your gift purchasing with care.

For everything under one roof, unique department store Liberty is hard to beat—here you’ll find everything from exquisite Miller Harris fragrances by British perfumer Lyn Harris to small leather goods embossed with the famous Liberty prints.

Fortnum & Mason is even more sensational on its floors packed with carefully curated and sweetly stylish offerings, such as leather-covered hip flasks and model boats with Union Jack sails. Of course, it is world famous for its beautifully packaged biscuits, teas, and unusual condiments.

For the men back home, consider some traditional shaving cream from Geo. F. Trumper.

The museum shops are also bursting with original gift ideas, from Brit Art books and posters at Tate Modern to double-decker bus models and Tube-map mouse pads at the London Transport Museum in Covent Garden.

A. Gold.
All the traditional, old-school foodstuffs sold in this Dickensian-looking shop, occupying an old milliner’s premises near Spitalfields Market, are from the United Kingdom. A bottle of mead, a jar of London-produced honey, or handmade fudge are all great Brit gifts. Stylish gift baskets and old-fashioned picnic hampers are available. | 42 Brushfield St., East End | E1 6AG | 020/7247–2487 | www.agoldshop.com | Station: Liverpool St.

Geo. F. Trumper.
If you don’t have time for an old-fashioned hot towel shave, pick up some accessories to take home for yourself or as a gift. The Extract of West Indian Lime is a popular, zingy aftershave, and the Coconut Oil Hard Shaving Soap, which comes in a hand-turned wooden bowl, is a classic. There is also a store at 9 Curzon Street in Mayfair. | 1 Duke of York St. , St. James’s | SW1Y 6JP | 020/7734–1370 | www.trumpers.com | Closed Sun. | Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Labour & Wait.
Although such household items as colanders and clothespins may not sound like ideal souvenirs, this shop may make you reconsider. The owners are on a mission to revive functional, old-fashioned British goods, such as enamel kitchenware, “Brown Betty” glazed teapots, Guernsey sweaters, and vintage Welsh blankets. | 85 Redchurch St. , East End | E2 7DJ | 020/7729–6253 | Closed Mon. | Station: Shoreditch High St.


Music

Although their supremacy is increasingly challenged by Internet downloads, global megastore HMV is still busy. There are also specialty stores galore for cutting-edge music mixed by club DJs, and for stocking up your own collection of good old-fashioned vinyl. TIP Consider that CDs cost anywhere from 10% to as much as 50% more in the United Kingdom than they do in North America. So look for the kind of music you really can’t find at home. Soho’s long-standing independent record-shop enclave Berwick Street has seen some recent closures, but survivors include the wide-ranging Sister Ray (Nos. 34–35), and Revival Records (No. 30), while Rough Trade Records has outlets in Notting Hill and the East End’s Old Truman Brewery. Camden Market is also good for a browse through secondhand and independent music stores.

Shoes

It’s no accident that Manolo Blahnik, the luxury shoe designer, made his name in London and still lives here. Audrey Hepburn, Kate Moss, and even the Sex and the City girls have all worn Manolos. Blahnik still trades from his original shop in Chelsea, just off the King’s Road, hidden away on Old Church Street. Jimmy Choo is another “native son” who began his career quietly in London’s East End before Tamara Mellon (who’s now left the company) turned his name into a global luxury brand. The British capital is still a hotbed of shoemaking talent: Nicholas Kirkwood, Beatrix Ong, and Rupert Sanderson are some of the most exciting names of the moment. Stop in at one of the King’s Road or South Moulton street branches of Office, Kurt Geiger, Dune, or the more avant-garde United Nude for British-designed shoes at slightly more affordable prices. And don’t miss the shoe department at Selfridges, the largest in the world where the shoes are presented like art.

Toys and Models

If you’re traveling with kids in tow, there are plenty of shops that cater to children. Forget about taking them to check out the latest game system; London is the place to shop for traditional toys like soldiers, puppets, teddy bears, and those divinely wonderful toy theaters from Pollock’s that have been delighting children ever since the days of Queen Victoria.

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