Fodo_9780876371565_p07

Shopping By Neighborhood

Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

Bloomsbury

Accessories

James Smith & Sons Ltd.
This has to be the world’s ultimate umbrella shop, and a must for anyone interested in real Victorian London. The family-owned shop has been in this location on a corner of New Oxford Street since 1857, and sells every kind of umbrella, cane, and walking stick imaginable. The decor is unchanged since the 19th century; you will feel as if you have stepped back in time. If the umbrellas are out of your price range, James Smith also sells smaller accessories and handmade wooden bowls. | Hazelwood House, 53 New Oxford St., Bloomsbury | WC1A 1BL | 020/7836–4731 | www.james-smith.co.uk | Closed Sun. | Station: Tottenham Court Rd., Holborn.

Books

Gay’s the Word.
Open since 1979, this is London’s leading gay and lesbian bookshop. Thousands of titles, from literature and thoughtful nonfiction, erotica to pro-diversity children’s books, fill the shelves. The shop is a well-loved fixture on the scene, and often hosts discussion groups, readings, and other events. | 66 Marchmont St., Bloomsbury | WC1N 1AB | 020/7278–7654 | www.gaystheword.co.uk | Closed Sun. morning | Station: Russell Sq.

Persephone Books.
A must for all lovers of feminist fiction and nonfiction, Persephone is a gem of a bookshop specializing in reprints of mostly neglected 20th-century works from predominately female writers. Exquisitely decorated endpapers make these books perfect gifts for your bibliophile friends. | 59 Lamb’s Conduit St., Bloomsbury | WC1N 3NB | 020/7242–9292 | www.persephonebooks.co.uk | Closed Sun. | Station: Russell Sq., Holborn.

Stationery

Paperchase.
The stationery superstore of the United Kingdom sells writing paper in every conceivable shade and in a dozen mediums. There are lovely cards, artists’ materials, notebooks, and loose stationery. The three-floor flagship store has a café. Other London branches can be found on Chelsea’s King’s Road and Covent Garden’s Piazza. | 213–215 Tottenham Court Rd., Bloomsbury | W1T 7PS | 020/7467–6200 | www.paperchase.co.uk | Station: Goodge St.

Holborn

Antiques

London Silver Vaults.
Housed in a basement vault, this extraordinary space holds stalls from more than 30 silver dealers. Products range from the spectacularly over-the-top costing thousands to smaller items—like teaspoons, candlesticks, or a set of Victorian cake forks—starting at £25. TIP Most of the silver merchants actually trade out of room-size, underground vaults, which were originally rented out to London’s upper crust to store their valuables. | 53–64 Chancery La., Holborn | WC2A 1QT | 020/7242–3844 | www.thesilvervaults.com | Closed Sat. after 1 and Sun. | Station: Chancery La.

Islington

Household

TwentyTwentyOne.
TwentyTwentyOne showcases the best in modern and vintage furniture. There are design classics like a chaise longue from Le Corbusier, as well as curvy daybeds from designer Jacob Pringiers. The kids’ range is particularly cool, with items like the classic elephant sculpture/toy from husband-and-wife design team Charles and Ray Eames. Small accessories like tote bags and cushions will easily fit into your luggage. | 274–275 Upper St., Islington | N1 2UA | 020/7288–1996 | www.twentytwentyone.com | Station: Highbury & Islington.

Camden

Markets

The Camden Markets.
The Camden Markets are grouped around two locks on the Regent’s Canal. Camden Lock Market proper began in the early 1970s, when weekend stalls sold the output of nearby craft workshops. Today the markets host more than 700 stalls offering a spectacular array of merchandise ranging from vintage and new clothes to antiques and junk, candlesticks, ceramics, Indian bedspreads, fetishwear, mirrors, and toys.

The markets on Camden High Street (both outdoors and within the Electric Ballroom) mainly sell cheap T-shirts, secondhand clothes, and tacky pop-culture paraphernalia; it’s best to head to Camden Lock Market and the Stables Market, where much of the youth-oriented merchandise appeals to aging hippies, fashion designers, and anyone with a taste for alternative culture (Goths are particularly well catered to). This shopping experience is best suited to those who don’t mind large crowds and a madhouse atmosphere, especially on weekends. Don’t miss the converted Horse Hospital, formerly an antiques market but now home to Proud Camden, a gallery/bar by day that becomes a live music venue at night. | Camden High St.–Chalk Farm Rd., Camden Town | NW1 | Camden Market, daily 10–6; Camden Lock Market and Canal Market, daily 10–6; Stables Market, weekdays 10:30–6, weekends 10–6; Electric Market, Sun. 9–5:30 | Station: Camden Town, Chalk Farm.

The City

Art Gallery

Lesley Craze Gallery.
This serene gallery displays jewelry by some 100 young designers from around the world (with a strong British bias), who use precious and semiprecious stones. A sculpture and textiles room showcases colorful handmade scarves. Prices start at £45. | 33–35A Clerkenwell Green, Clerkenwell | EC1R 0DU | 020/7608–0393 | www.lesleycrazegallery.co.uk | Closed Sun.; open Mon. in Nov. and Dec. only | Station: Farringdon.

The South Bank

Art

Oxo Tower Wharf.
The artisans creating fashion, jewelry, home accessories, textiles, prints and photographs, furniture, and other design items have to pass rigorous selection procedures to set up in these prime riverside workshops where they make, display, and sell their work. The workshops are glass-walled, and you’re welcome to explore, even if you’re just browsing. There are around 30 studios, spread over three floors. The Oxo Tower Restaurant & Brasserie on the top floor is expensive, but with its fantastic view of London, it’s worth popping up for a drink. There’s also a public terrace where you can take in the view. | Oxo Tower Wharf, Bargehouse St., South Bank | SE1 9PH | 020/7021–1686 | Closed Mon. | Station: Southwark, Waterloo.

Markets

Bermondsey Antiques Market.
The early bird catches the worm here, so come before dawn on a Friday (flashlight recommended) to bag a bargain at London’s largest antique market. Dealers arrive as early as 4 am to snap up the best curios and silver, paintings, objets d’art, and furniture. The early start grew out of wrinkle in the law under which stolen goods bought here during the hours of darkness when provenance could not be determined did not have to be returned.

Bermondsey Square. The recent establishment of the Saturday morning Bermondsey Farmers’ Market, as well as the redevelopment of Bermondsey Square has attracted more customers to the Antiques Market. The square now boasts a boutique hotel, an art-house cinema, and a good independent bookstore (Woolfson and Tay), as well as restaurants. | Bermondsey Sq., Southwark | SE1 3FD | www.bermondseysquare.co.uk | Long La. and Bermondsey Sq., South Bank | SE1 4QB | Fri. 4 am–about 1 pm | Station: London Bridge.

Borough Market.
There’s been a market in Borough since Roman times. This one, spread under the arches and railway tracks leading to London Bridge Station, is the successor to a medieval market once held on London Bridge. Postmillennium, it has been transformed from a noisy collection of local produce stalls to a trendy foodie center that attracts some of London’s best merchants of comestibles. Fresh coffees, gorgeous cheeses, olives, and baked goods complement the organically farmed meats, fresh fish, fruit, and veggies.

Don’t make any other lunch plans for the day; this is where celebrity chef Jamie Oliver’s scallop man cooks them up fresh at Shell Seekers, wild boar sausages sizzle on grills, and a sampling of Pâté Moi, an organic homemade mushroom pâté, will leave your taste buds begging for more, while for the sweet lover there are chocolates, preserves, and Burnt Sugar’s handmade fudge.

Seven of the original Borough Market traders, including the celebrated Kappacasein Swiss raclette stand that serves heaping plates of melted Ogleshield cheese over new potatoes, baby pickles, and onion, have established a breakaway market on nearby Maltby Street, which operates on Saturday morning from 9 am. | Southwark St., South Bank | SE1 1TL | 020/7402–1002 | www.boroughmarket.org.uk | Thurs. 11–5, Fri. noon–6, Sat. 8–5 | Station: London Bridge.

Spitalfields

Accessories: Hats

Bernstock Speirs.
Paul Bernstock and Thelma Speirs turn traditional hats on their head with street-smart trilbies and knitted hats that feature unusual colors and quirky details. | 234 Brick La., Spitalfields | E2 7EB | 020/7739–7385 | www.bernstockspiers.com | Station: Liverpool St., Bethnal Green.

Clothing

Junky Styling.
This brand was launched by designers Annika Sanders and Kerry Seager, who used to “deconstruct” old clothing when they wanted something unique to wear clubbing. They recycled traditional suits and shirts into wild outfits, and the business grew from there. Each piece is unique, and the highly original (and eco-friendly) garments, for both men and women, are funky but retain the sophistication of their tailored origins. | 12 Dray Walk, The Old Truman Brewery, 91 Brick La., Spitalfields | E1 6RF | 020/7247–1883 | www.junkystyling.co.uk | Station: Liverpool St., Aldgate East.

The Laden Showroom.
Sienna Miller, Victoria Beckham, and Noel Gallagher are among the celebs who regularly check out emerging talent at this East End showroom for young designers. The store retails the work of more than 70 new designers, some selling one-off items—so the look you find is likely to be original. | 103 Brick La., Spitalfields | E1 6SE | 020/7247–2431 | www.laden.co.uk | Station: Shoreditch High St.

Start London.
Start London offers an ever-changing roster of cutting-edge designers like Rick Owens, Richard Nicoll, and Markus Lupfer and, for men (down the street at No. 59), everything from Comme des Garcons to Nudie Jeans. Although the emphasis is on chic directional fashion, co-owner and American expat Brix Smith-Start is more mother hen than formidable fashionista and is happy to gently guide customers into trying something new. | 42-44 Rivington St., Shoreditch | EC2A 3QP | 020/7033–3951 | www.start-london.com | Station: Old St., Shoreditch High St.

Markets

Brick Lane.
The noisy center of the Bengali community is a hubbub of buying and selling. Sunday stalls have food, hardware, household goods, electrical goods, books, bikes, shoes, clothes, spices, and traditional saris. The CDs and DVDs may not be entirely legitimate, and the bargain iron may not have a plug–so be careful. Shoppers nevertheless flock to the market to enjoy the ethnic buzz, sample curries and Bengali sweets, or indulge in salt beef on a bagel at Beigel Bake, London’s 24-hour bagel bakery, a survivor of the neighborhood’s Jewish past. Brick Lane’s activity spills over into nearby Petticoat Lane Market that purveys similar goods but with less atmosphere. | Brick La., Shoreditch | E1 6SE | www.visitbricklane.org | Sun. 9–5 | Station: Shoreditch High St., Liverpool St.

Old Spitalfields Market.
This fine example of a Victorian market hall (once London’s wholesale fruit and vegetable market), now restored to its original splendor, is at the center of the area’s gentrified revival. The original building is now largely occupied by shops with traders’ stalls in the courtyard, and a modern shopping precinct under a Norman Foster–designed glass canopy adjoins the old building, home to a large number of independent traders’ stalls. Wares include crafts, retro clothing, handmade rugs, soaps, jewelry, aromatherapy oils, fashion-forward clothes by new designers, hand-carved toy trains, unique baby clothes, vintage art prints, rare vinyl records, and cakes, though you may have to wade through a certain number of stalls selling cheap imports to find the good stuff. Thursday is particularly good for antiques. And, from Spanish tapas to Thai satays, the food outlets (mostly small, upscale chains but some independent stallholders as well) offer cuisines from around the world. | 16 Horner Sq., Brushfield St., Spitalfields | E1 6EW | 020/7247–8556 | www.spitalfields.co.uk | Stalls Tues.–Fri. 10–4, Sun. 9–5; restaurants weekdays 11–11, Sun. 9–11; retail shops daily 10–7 | Station: Liverpool St., Shoreditch High Street (London Overground).

Music

Rough Trade East.
While many London record stores are struggling, this veteran indie-music specialist seems to have gotten the formula right. The spacious surroundings are as much a hangout as a shop, complete with a stage for live gigs, a café, and Internet access. | Dray Walk, Old Truman Brewery, 91 Brick La., Spitalfields | E1 6QL | 020/7392–7788 | Station: Liverpool St., Shoreditch High St.

Shoreditch

Markets

Columbia Road Flower Market.
London’s premier flower market is about as pretty and photogenic as they come, with more than 50 stalls selling flowers, shrubs, bulbs, and trees—everything from bedding plants to 10-foot banana trees—and 30 complimentary shops offering garden tools, pots, and accessories at competitive prices. Shopping is enlivened by the lively patter and the local cafés are superb. | Columbia Rd., Shoreditch | E2 7RG | www.columbiaroad.info | Sun. 8–2 | Station: Old St., Hoxton (London Overground).

Belgravia

Accessories

Lulu Guinness.
Famous for her flamboyantly themed bags (think the satin “bucket” topped with roses or the elaborately beaded red snakeskin “lips” clutch). Guinness also showcases vintage-inspired luggage and beauty accessories in this frilly little shop, which is just as whimsical as her designs. | 3 Ellis St., Belgravia | SW1X 9AL | 020/7823–4828 | www.luluguinness.com | Closed Sun. | Station: Sloane Sq.

Fodor’s Choice | Philip Treacy.
Treacy’s magnificent hats are annual showstoppers on Ladies Day at the Royal Ascot races and regularly grace the glossy magazines’ society pages. Part Mad Hatter, part Cecil Beaton, Treacy’s creations always guarantee a grand entrance (remember the eye-popping chapeaux that adorned many famous heads at the Westminster Abbey wedding of Prince William and his queen-to-be Kate?). In addition to the extravagant, haute couture hats handmade in the atelier, ready-to-wear hats and bags are also for sale. | 69 Elizabeth St., Belgravia | SW1W 9PJ | 020/7730–3992 | www.philiptreacy.co.uk | Closed Sun. | Station: Sloane Sq.

Chelsea

Accessories

The Shop at Bluebird.
The brainchild of the couple behind popular womenswear brand Jigsaw, this 10,000-square-foot space in the old Bluebird garage brings together fashion, furniture, books, and music—all chosen for style and originality. It’s worth visiting for the displays alone, which change regularly, although the funky ceiling-light installation of more than 1,000 bulbs seems to be a constant feature. After browsing, unwind with a treatment at the on-site spa or join the ladies who lunch at the restaurant in the same complex. TIP It’s a good 20-minute walk from the nearest Tube station at Sloane Square, so catch a No. 11 or No. 22 bus along the King’s Road. | 350 King’s Rd., Chelsea | SW3 5UU | 020/7351–3873 | www.theshopatbluebird.com | Station: Sloane Sq.

Antiques

Books

Green & Stone.
This fabulous cave of artists’ materials, papers, art books, easels, and mannequins is one of the longest-established shops on the King’s Road, with a distinguished arts pedigree. It began life in 1927 as part of the Chenil Gallery, run by a distinguished group that included Augustus John and George Bernard Shaw. At the current location since 1934, the shop also has a framing service, antique paint boxes, and artists’ tools. | 259 King’s Rd., Chelsea | SW3 5EL | 020/7352–0837 | www.greenandstone.com | Station: Sloane Sq.

Clothing

Austique.
For fans of such feminine brands as Shoshanna, Alice + Olivia, or Mara Hoffman, look no further than Austique. Situated along the trendy King’s Road, this sophisticated boutique, created by sisters Linda Lopes and Katie Canvin, is home to a gorgeous array of dresses, lingerie, jewelry, and accessories for the ultimate fashionista. It’s almost impossible to leave empty-handed. There’s another branch in Marylebone. | 330 King’s Rd., Chelsea | SW3 5UR | 020/7376–4555 | www.austique.co.uk | Station: Sloane Sq.

Brora.
The knitwear is cozy, but the style is cool in this contemporary Scottish cashmere emporium for men, women, and kids. There are dressed-up camisoles, sweaters and cardigans, and adorable baby ensembles, as well as noncashmere items such as picnic blankets and scarves. Other branches can be found in Notting Hill, Marylebone, Islington, Wimbledon, Richmond, Covent Garden, and Sloane Square. | 344 King’s Rd., Chelsea | SW3 5UR | 020/7352–3697 | www.brora.co.uk | Station: Sloane Sq.

Fodor’s Choice | Jack Wills.
Wowie-zowie! The British preppie’s answer to Abercrombie & Fitch, Jack Wills specializes in heritage and country sports-inspired styles for men and women but gives them a youthful, sexy edge. This means disco-like stores crammed with slim-line Fair Isle sweaters, fitted plaid shirts, and short floral sundresses for the girls, plus sweatshirts, blazers, skinny cords, hoodies, and rugby shirts for the boys. Add in a delightful array of shocking pink gypsy pillows, Union Jack carry-ons, bobble hats galore, knitted jackets for hot-water bottles, and other kitschy items and the result are crowds of plugged-in buyers. Branches are in Notting Hill, Covent Garden, Islington, and Soho (on Long Acre). | 72 Kings Rd., Chelsea | SW3 4UG | 020/7581–0347 | www.jackwills.com | Station: Sloane Sq.

Clothing: Women’s

Rigby & Peller.
Lovers of luxury lingerie shop here for brands like Prima Donna and Aubade, as well as R&P’s own line. If the right fit eludes you and you fancy being fitted by the Queen’s corsetiére, the Knightsbridge branch offers a made-to-measure service starting around £300. Many of London’s most affluent women shop here, not only because of the royal appointment but also because the quality is excellent and the service is impeccably knowledgeable, while being much friendlier than you might expect. There are a number of branches around town, all of which are open on Sunday, except the Conduit Street location. | 13 Kings Rd., Chelsea | SW3 4RP | 0845/076–5545 | www.rigbyandpeller.com | Station: Sloane Sq.

Food

L’Artisan du Chocolat.
Praised by top chefs Gordon Ramsay and Heston Blumenthal, L’Artisan raises chocolate to an art form. “Couture” chocolates are infused with fruits, nuts, and spices (including such exotic flavorings as Szechuan pepper and tobacco). This is one of the few chocolate shops in the world that makes liquid salted caramels. Leave the kiddies at home, though; this shop is total wish fulfillment for grown-up chocolate lovers. There’s also a branch in Notting Hill. | 89 Lower Sloane St., Chelsea | SW1W 8DA | 020/7824–8365 | Station: Sloane Sq.

Household

The Conran Shop.
This is the brainchild of Sir Terence Conran, who has been informing British taste since he opened Habitat in the 1960s. Although he is no longer associated with Habitat, his eponymous stores are still bastions of similarly clean, unfussy modernist design. Home enhancers from furniture to stemware and textiles—both handmade and mass-produced, by famous names and emerging designers—are displayed in a suitably gorgeous building that is a modernist design landmark in its own right. Both the flagship store and the branch on Marylebone High Street are bursting with great gift ideas. | Michelin House, 81 Fulham Rd., South Kensington | SW3 6RD | 020/7589–7401 | www.conranshop.co.uk | Station: South Kensington.

Designers Guild.
Tricia Guild’s exuberantly colored modern fabrics, wallpapers, paints, furniture, and bed linens have inspired several decades’ worth of home owners and apartment dwellers, and her soft-furnishings book has taught many a budget-conscious do-it-yourselfer how to reupholster a sofa or make lined draperies. The shop also stocks contemporary furniture, wallpapers, and home accessories by other designers. | 267-277 King’s Rd., Chelsea | SW3 5EN | 020/351–5775 | www.designersguild.com | Closed Sun. | Station: Sloane Sq.

Jewelry

Butler & Wilson.
Long before anybody ever heard the word “bling,” this shop was marketing the look—in diamanté, colored rhinestones, and crystal—to movie stars and secretaries alike. Specialists in bold costume jewelry, they’ve added semiprecious stones to the collections and the look is anything but subtle, so it may not suit all tastes unless you’re in the market for a rhinestone Union Jack pin. Even if you’re not a fan, the shop is worth a visit for its vintage (and vintage-influenced) clothes, once used only to display the jewelry. There’s also another shop at 20 South Molton Street. | 189 Fulham Rd., South Kensington | SW3 6JN | 020/7352–3045 | www.butlerandwilson.co.uk | Station: South Kensington.

Melissa McArthur Jewellry.
Tucked between Vivienne Westwood’s shop and the Bluebird in Chelsea, this small but mighty jewelry store is a must-see on the King’s Road. With everything handmade in-house using precious and semiprecious gems (don’t forget the freshwater pearls), stocking up on gifts for female loved ones is easy here. The price points are also very reasonable for such eternally wearable and gorgeous items. | 378 King’s Rd., Chelsea | SW3 5UZ | 020/7351–1551 | www.mmjlondon.com | Station: Sloane Sq., South Kensington.

Shoes

Manolo Blahnik.
Blink and you’ll miss the discreet sign that marks fashionista footwear central. Blahnik, the man who single-handedly managed to revive the sexy stiletto and make it classier than ever, has been trading out of this small shop on a Chelsea side street since 1973. It’s a must for shoe lovers with a generous budget. If you decide to wear your new Manolos, hop on the No. 11 or No. 22 bus or grab a cab—the nearest Tube is about a 20-minute totter away. | 49–51 Old Church St., Chelsea | SW3 5BS | 020/7352–3863 | www.manoloblahnik.com | Closed Sun. | Station: Sloane Sq., South Kensington.

Kensington

Marie-Chantal.
If you love beautiful, tasteful clothing for babies and children, head to this boutique created by Princess Marie-Chantal of Greece. As you’d imagine, the look is elegant and the prices are high. Materials used include silk, linen, and Liberty prints. There are other branches in Knighsbridge and Notting Hill. | 148 Walton St., South Kensington | SW3 2JJ | 020/7838–1111 | www.mariechantal.com | Station: South Kensington.

Household

Fodor’s Choice | Mint.
Owner Lina Kanafani has scoured the globe to stock an eclectic mix of furniture, art, ceramics, and home accessories. Mint also showcases works by up-and-coming designers and sells plenty of limited edition and one-off pieces. If you don’t want to ship a couch home, consider a miniature flower vase or a handmade ceramic pitcher. | 2 North Terr., South Kensington | SW3 2BA | 020/7225–2228 | www.mintshop.co.uk | Station: South Kensington.

Women’s Wear

Jigsaw.
Jigsaw specializes in clothes that are classic yet trendy, ladylike without being dull. The style is epitomized by the former Kate Middleton, who was a buyer for the company before her marriage. The quality of fabrics and detailing belie the reasonable prices and cuts are kind to the womanly figure. Although there are numerous branches across London, no two stores are the same. The pre-teen set have their own line, Jigsaw Junior. | The Chapel, Duke of York Sq., King’s Rd., Chelsea | SW3 4LY | 020/730–4404 | www.jigsawonline.com | Station: Sloane Sq.

Knightsbridge

Accessories

Anya Hindmarch.
Exquisite leather bags and personalized, printed canvas totes are what made Hindmarch famous, along with her “I’m Not A Plastic Bag” eco-creation. Her designs are sold at Harrods and Harvey Nichols, but in her stores you can see her complete collection of bags and shoes and have your photograph immortalized on a “Be A Bag” that comes in a variety of sizes and styles. There are also branches around the corner on Bond Street in Mayfair and on Ledbury Road in Notting Hill. | 157–158 Sloane St., Knightsbridge | SW1X 9BT | 020/7730–0961 | www.anyahindmarch.com | Station: Sloane Sq., Knightsbridge.

Clothing

Egg.
Tucked away in a residential mews a short walk from Harvey Nichols, this shop is the brainchild of Maureen Doherty, once Issey Miyake’s right-hand person. More than half the minimalist, unstructured styles for men and women in natural fabrics such as silk, cashmere, and antique cotton are handmade. The shop is a former Victorian dairy, and garments are casually hung on hooks or folded on wooden tables in the simple, white space. The price tags, however, are anything but humble. Unusual ceramics and jewelry are also on display. | 36 Kinnerton St., Knightsbridge | SW1X 8ES | 020/7235–9315 | Closed Sun. | Station: Knightsbridge.

Clothing: Children

Rachel Riley.
Looking for traditional English style for the younger ones? Riley’s expensive, vintage-inspired collection includes classics like duffle coats, cashmere booties, and floral dresses for girls and teens. Mothers who love the Riley look can pick even up coordinating outfits for themselves at the Knightsbridge or Marylebone High Street locations. | 14 Pont St., Knightsbridge | SW1X 9EN | 020/7259–5969 | www.rachelriley.com | Station: Knightsbridge.

Clothing: Menswear

Hackett.
If J. Crew isn’t preppy enough for you, try Hackett. Originally a posh thrift shop recycling cricket flannels, hunting pinks, Oxford brogues, and other staples of the British gentleman’s wardrobe, Hackett now creates its own line and has become a genuine—and very good—men’s outfitter. The look is traditional and classic, with best buys including polo shirts, corduroys, and striped scarves. There’s also a boys’ line for the junior man-about-town. | 137/138 Sloane St., Chelsea | SW1X 9AY | 020/7730–3331 | www.hackett.com | Station: Sloane Sq.

Clothing: Women’s Wear

Agent Provocateur.
Created by Vivienne Westwood’s son, this line of sexy, saucy lingerie in gorgeous fabrics and lace tends toward the kind of underwear that men buy for women, more provocative than practical. The original boudoir-like shop is in what was Soho’s red-light district, but the brand has gone thoroughly mainstream and now sells bathing suits, bed linen, and luggage (along with paddles and pasties) in Knightsbridge, Notting Hill, and the City of London, as well as in Harrods, Harvey Nichols, and Selfridges. | 16 Pont St., Knightsbridge | SW1X 9EN | 020/7235–0229 | www.agentprovocateur.com | Closed Sun. | Station: Knightsbridge.

Department Stores

Harrods.
With an encyclopedic assortment of luxury brands, this Knightsbridge institution has more than 300 departments and 20 restaurants, all spread over 1 million square feet on a 5-acre site. If you approach Harrods as a tourist attraction rather than as a fashion hunting ground, you won’t be disappointed. Focus on the spectacular food halls, the huge ground-floor perfumery, the marble-lined accessory rooms, the excellent Urban Retreat spa, and the Vegas–like Egyptian Room. At the bottom of the nearby Egyptian escalator, there’s a bronze statue depicting the late Princess Diana and Dodi Fayed, son of the former owner, dancing beneath the wings of an albatross. Nevertheless, standards of taste are enforced with a customer dress code (no shorts, ripped jeans, or flip-flops). TIP Be prepared to brave the crowds (avoid visiting on a Saturday if you can), and be prepared to pay if you want to use the bathroom on some floors(!). | 87–135 Brompton Rd., Knightsbridge | SW1X 7XL | 020/7730–1234 | www.harrods.com | Station: Knightsbridge.

Fodor’s Choice | Harvey Nichols.
While visiting tourists flock to Harrods, true London fashionistas shop at Harvey Nichols, aka “Harvey Nicks.” The womenswear and accessories departments are outstanding, featuring of-the-moment designers like Roland Mouret, Peter Pilotto, and 3.1 Phillip Lim. The furniture and housewares are equally gorgeous (and pricey), though they become somewhat more affordable during the twice-annual sales in January and July. The Fifth Floor restaurant is the place to see and be seen, but if you’re just after a quick bite, there’s also a more informal café on the same floor or sushi-to-go from Yo! Sushi. | 109–125 Knightsbridge, Knightsbridge | SW1X 7RJ | 020/7235–5000 | www.harveynichols.com | Station: Knightsbridge.

Shoes

Jimmy Choo.
Even though both designer Choo (who now runs a Connaught Street atelier selling couture handmade shoes) and Tamara Mellon, who built the brand, have now departed, Jimmy Choo designs remain a red carpet must-have for supermodels, fashionistas, and celebrities. The elegant yet sexy creations combine luxurious materials and details with classic shapes (pointy toes and slim high heels are signatures) to create timeless style—essential given the prices. The handbags are also firm favorites with the loyal clientele. | 32 Sloane St., Knightsbridge | SW1X 9NR | 020/7823–1051 | www.jimmychoo.com | Station: Knightsbridge.

Notting Hill

Books

Books for Cooks.
It may seem odd to describe a bookshop as delicious-smelling, but the aromas wafting out of Books for Cooks’ test kitchen will whet your appetite even before you’ve opened one of the 8,000 cookbooks. Just about every world cuisine is represented along with a complete lineup of books by celebrity chefs. A tiny café at the back offers lunch dishes drawn from recipes on the shelves, as well as desserts and coffee. Menus change daily. TIP Before you come to London, visit the shop’s website,www.booksforcooks.com, to sign up for a cooking class. | 4 Blenheim Crescent, Notting Hill | W11 1NN | 020/7221–1992 | Closed Sun. and Mon. | Station: Notting Hill Gate, Ladbroke Grove.

Clothing

Aimé.
French-Cambodian sisters Val and Vanda Heng-Vong launched this shop to showcase the best of French clothing and designer housewares. Expect to find fashion by Isabel Marant, Forte Forte, and A.P.C. You can also pick up A.P.C. candles, Rice homewares, and a well-edited collection of ceramics. Just next door at 34 Ledbury Road, Petit Aimé sells children’s clothing. | 32 Ledbury Rd., Notting Hill | W11 2AB | 020/7221–7070 | www.aimelondon.com | Station: Notting Hill Gate.

Caramel Baby & Child.
Here you’ll find adorable yet unfussy clothes for children six months and up: handcrafted Peruvian alpaca cardigans in sherbet colors, twill skirts, and floral cotton blouses and dresses for girls; check shirts and earth-tone tees for boys; comfortable pants in twill, corduroy, and cotton for both; and Merino/cashmere sweaters for extremely fashionable toddlers and babies. Caramel also sells a small selection of decorative/functional items like mobiles, child-friendly chairs and stools, teddy bears, and sheep-shape pillows. There are also branches in South Kensington and Chelsea. | 77 Ledbury Rd., Notting Hill | W11 2AG | 020/7727–0906 | www.caramel-shop.co.uk | Station: Westbourne Park, Notting Hill Gate.

Market

Fodor’s Choice | Portobello Market.
London’s most famous market still wins the prize (according to some) for the all-round best, stretching more than a mile from fashionable Notting Hill to the lively cultural melting pot of North Kensington, changing character as it goes.

The southern end, starting at Chepstow Villas, is lined with shops, arcades, and stalls selling antiques, silver, and bric-a-brac; the middle, above Westbourne Grove, is devoted to fruit and veg, interspersed with excellent hot food stalls (this middle area was the setting for the lovely sequence in the movie Notting Hill where Hugh Grant walks through the market as the seasons change); between Talbot Road and the elevated highway (called the Westway) it becomes more of a flea market specializing in household and mass-produced goods sold at a discount, while north of the Westway are more stalls selling even cheaper household goods. Scattered throughout but mostly concentrated under the Westway are clothing stalls—everything from vintage to emerging designers, custom T-shirts and super-cool baby clothes, plus jewelry. As well, new and established designers are found in the boutiques of the Portobello Green Arcade.

Some say Portobello Road has become a tourist trap, but if you acknowledge that it’s a circus and get into the spirit, it’s a lot of fun. Perhaps you won’t find many bargains, but this is such a fascinating part of town that just hanging out is a good enough excuse to come. There are some food and flower stalls throughout the week (try the Hummingbird Bakery for delicious cupcakes) but Saturday is when the market in full swing. Serious shoppers avoid the crowds and go on Friday morning. TIP Bring cash (several vendors don’t take credit cards) but keep an eye on it. | Portobello Rd., Notting Hill | W11 | Sat. 8–6:30 | Station: Notting Hill Gate (District, Circle, or Central Line).

Music

Music & Video Exchange.
This store—actually a rambling conglomeration of several shops on Notting Hill Gate—is a music collector’s treasure trove, with a constantly changing stock refreshed by customers selling and exchanging as well as buying. The main store focuses on rock and pop, both mainstream and obscure, in a variety of formats ranging from vinyl to CD, cassette, and even mini-disk. Don’t miss the discounts in the basement and the rarities upstairs. Soul and dance is found at No. 42, classical music at No. 36, video and computer games at No. 40, and movies at No. 34. There are also branches in Soho, Greenwich, and Camden. | 38 Notting Hill Gate, Notting Hill | W11 3HX | 020/7243–8574 | Station: Notting Hill Gate.

Shoes

Emma Hope.
Emma Hope’s signature look is elegant and ladylike, with pointed toes and kitten heels, often ornamented with bows, lace, crystal, or exquisite embroidery. Ballet flats and sneakers in velvet or animal prints provide glamour without sacrificing comfort. Both branches (Notting Hill and Sloane Square) also stock small-but-perfectly-formed handbags, as well as shoes and accessories for men. | 207 Westbourne Grove, Notting Hill | W11 2SF | 020/7313–7490 | www.emmahope.com | Station: Notting Hill Gate.

Specialty Stores

Fodor’s Choice | The Village Bicycle.
With a style that might best be described as punk luxe, this “lifestyle concept store” offers witty, haute Goth homewares like a phone disguised as Damien Hirst ‘s notorious artwork For The Love of God (a diamond-encrusted skull, except in this case the diamonds are glass) and an iPad stand in the form of an old-school arcade game. There are also toys, coffee-table books, trinkets, shoes, hi-tops, and art, as well as clothes—most involving leather, black, or fur from ultra-hip labels like House of Holland, Mark Fast, and Chloe Sevigny that are designed for girls with small frames and big credit limits. | 79-81 Ledbury Rd., Notting Hill | W11 2AG | 020/7792–8601 | Station: Notting Hill Gate, Westbourne Park.

Marylebone

Antiques

Alfie’s Antique Market.
This four-story, bohemian-chic labyrinth is London’s largest indoor antiques market, housing dealers specializing in art, lighting, glassware, textiles, jewelry, furniture, and collectibles, with a particular strength in vintage clothing and 20th-century design. Here’s where you come to pick up fabulous cocktail dresses and kitsch bar accessories at The Girl Can’t Help It, an Alvar Aalto chair at Brent Plys, or a spectacular mid-20th-century Italian lighting fixture at Vincenzo Caffarrella. There’s also a rooftop restaurant if you need a coffee break. In addition to the market, this end of Church Street is lined with excellent antiques shops. | 13–25 Church St., Marylebone | NW8 8DT | 020/7723–6066 | www.alfiesantiques.com | Closed Sun. and Mon. | Station: Marylebone.

Beauty

Space NK.
Aficionados of hard-to-find cult beauty products flock to this upscale chain that now has more than 20 locations throughout London. The minute you step inside, you’re surrounded by luxurious and sought-after cosmetic and skincare brands like Lipstick Queen, Chantecaille, Darphin, and Serge Lutens, along with fragrances by the likes of Acqua di Parma and hair products by Frederic Fekkai. The helpful staff is happy to offer knowledgeable advice. The Notting Hill branch also offers spa treatments, while men have a branch of their own in Soho. | 83a Marylebone High St., Marylebone | W1U 4QP | 020/7486–8791 | www.spacenk.co.uk | Station: Baker St.

Books

Daunt Books.
An independent bookstore chain (there are additional branches in Belsize Park, Chelsea, Hampstead, Holland Park, and Cheapside), Daunt favors a thoughtful selection of contemporary and classic fiction and nonfiction over self-help books and ghost-written celebrity “autobiographies.” It is especially noted for its travel selection, which includes not only guidebooks but also relevant poetry and literature organized by country, and children’s books. The striking Marylebone branch is an original Edwardian bookstore where a dramatic room lined with oak galleries under lofty skylights houses the travel section. Meanwhile, biographies and fiction are piled on tables at the entrance for eclectic browsing. | 83 Marylebone High St., Marylebone | W1U 4QW | 020/7224–2295 | www.dauntbooks.co.uk | Station: Baker St.

Ceramics

Emma Bridgewater.
Here’s where you’ll find fun and funky casual plates, mugs, jugs, and breakfast tableware embellished with polka dots, hens, hearts and flowers, amusing mottoes, or matter-of-fact labels (sugar or coffee). There’s another branch in Fulham. | 81a Marylebone High St., Marylebone | W1U 4QL | 020/7486–6897 | Station: Baker St., Bond St.

Clothing

Margaret Howell.
These quintessentially English clothes are understated yet manage to look utterly contemporary. Howell mixes impeccable British tailoring and traditional fabrics (linen, cashmere, and tweed) with relaxed modern cuts. A fan of 20th-century household design, the designer also showcases vintage Ercol furniture in her Wigmore Street boutique. There’s another branch on the Fulham Road. | 34 Wigmore St., Marylebone | W1U 2RS | 020/7009–9006 | www.margarethowell.co.uk | Station: Bond St.

Matches.
The rising British designers featured in these shops that pop up throughout London include Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders, Issa, and Goat, as well as more-established figures like McCartney and McQueen. International labels, including J Brand, Acne, Vanessa Bruno, Lanvin, Chloe, and Celine, are also represented. There’s also an equally stylish menswear department, plus jewelry, lingerie, and accessories. | 87 Marylebone High St., Marylebone | W1U 4QU | 020/7487–5400 | www.matchesfashion.com | Station: Baker St., Regent’s Park.

Department Stores

Marks & Spencer.
You’d be hard-pressed to find a Brit who doesn’t have something in the closet from Marks & Spencer (or “M&S,” as it’s affectionately known). This major chain whips up classic, dependable clothing for men, women, and children and occasionally scores a fashion hit with its Per Una and Autograph lines. But the best buys here are the classics, such as cashmere and wool sweaters, socks and underwear, and believe it or not, machine-washable suits. The food department at M&S is consistently superb, especially for frozen food, and a great place to pick up a sandwich or premade salad on the go (look for M&S Simply Food stores all over town.) The flagship branch at Marble Arch and the Pantheon location at 173 Oxford Street have extensive fashion departments. | 458 Oxford St., Marylebone | W1C 1AP | 020/7935–7954 | www.marksandspencer.com | Station: Marble Arch.

Fodor’s Choice | Selfridges.
This giant, bustling store (the second-largest in the United Kingdom after Harrods) gives Harvey Nichols a run for its money as London’s leading fashion department store. Packed to the rafters with clothes ranging from mid-price lines to the latest catwalk names, the store continues to break ground with its striking modern design, especially the high-fashion Superbrands sections and the ground-floor Wonder Room showcasing extravagant jewelry and luxury gifts. There are so many zones that merge into one another—from youth-oriented Miss Selfridge to sports gear to audio equipment to the large, comprehensive cosmetics department—that you practically need a map. Don’t miss the Shoe Galleries, the world’s largest shoe department filled with more than 5,000 pairs from 120 brands, displayed like works of art under spotlights, plus comfy fuscia-pink seating. TIP Take a break with a glass of wine from the Wonder Bar, or pick up some rare tea in the Food Hall as a gift. | 400 Oxford St., Marylebone | W1A 1AB | 0800/123400 | www.selfridges.com | Station: Bond St.

Jewelry

Kabiri.
A dazzling array of exciting contemporary jewelry by emerging and established designers from around the world is packed into this small shop. There is something to suit most budgets and tastes, from flamboyant statement pieces to subtle, delicate adornment. Look out for British talent Johanne Mills, among many others. | 37 Marylebone High St., Marylebone | W1U 4QE | 020/7224–1808 | www.kabiri.co.uk | Station: Baker St.

Mayfair

Accessories

Fodor’s Choice | Mulberry.
Staying true to its roots in rural Somerset, this luxury goods company epitomizes le style Anglais, a sophisticated take on the earth tones and practicality of English country style. Best known for highly desirable luxury handbags such as the Alexa and the Bayswater, the company also produces gorgeous leather accessories, from wallets to luggage, as well as shoes and clothing. Aside from the New Bond Street flagship, there are branches in Knightsbridge and Covent Garden, and Mulberry is sold in the major department stores. The small store on St. Christopher’s Place in Marylebone stocks accessories only. | 50 New Bond St., Mayfair | W1S 1BJ | 020/7491–3900 | www.mulberry.com | Station: Bond St.

William & Son.
William Aprey, scion of the jewelry dynasty, has decided to set up on his own and open a store that takes a more friendly, less formal approach to selling carefully chosen, British-made luxury goods. Here’s where you’ll find all sorts of items you didn’t know you needed, like silver-tipped retractable pencils, lizard-skin passport holders, crocodile backgammon sets, or a silver piggy bank. The jewelry is tasteful rather than knock-your-eyes-out and the store encourages requests for custom-made pieces. | 10 Mount St., Mayfair | W1K 2TY | 020/7493–8385 | www.williamandson.com | Closed weekends | Station: Bond St.

Antiques

Grays Antique Market.
Open daily except Sunday from 10 to 6 (not all stalls are open on Saturdays), Grays boasts approximately 200 dealers specializing in everything from Bakelite homewares to Mughal art. The majority focus on jewelry, ranging from contemporary to antique. Bargains are not out of the question, and proper pedigrees are guaranteed. Also try Grays in the Mews around the corner—stalls there sell less expensive merchandise, including antique dolls at Glenda’s and excellent vintage clothing at Vintage Modes. | 58 Davies St., Mayfair | W1K 5AB | 020/7629–7034 | www.graysantiques.com | Closed Sun. | Station: Bond St.

Books and Stationery

Maggs Brothers Ltd.
How could any book lover resist a shop with such a deliciously Dickensian name? Located in a Georgian town house in one of Mayfair’s most elegant squares, Maggs, established 1853, is one of the world’s oldest and largest rare-book dealers. Shop staff is expert enough to advise important collectors, but is nonetheless friendly and helpful to all interested visitors. | 50 Berkeley Sq., Mayfair | W1J 5BA | 020/7493–7160 | www.maggs.com | Closed weekends | Station: Green Park.

Smythson of Bond Street.
Hands down, this is the most elegant stationer in Britain. No hostess of any standing would consider having a leather-bound guest book made by anyone else, and the shop’s distinctive pale-blue–page diaries and social stationery are thoroughly British. Diaries, stationery, and small leather goods can be personalized. Smythson also produces a small range of leather handbags and purses. There are branches within Harvey Nichols, Harrods, and Selfridges. | 40 New Bond St., Mayfair | W1S 2DE | 020/7629–8558 | Station: Bond St., Green Park.

Waterstone’s.
At this mega-bookshop (Europe’s largest) located in a former art deco department store near Piccadilly Circus, browse through your latest purchase or admire the view while sipping a glass of bubbly or getting a bite to eat at the sixth-floor Champagne and Seafood Bar, which is open until 9. Waterstone’s is the country’s leading book chain, and they’ve pulled out all the stops to make their flagship as comfortable and welcoming as a bookstore can be. There are several smaller branches located throughout the city. | 203–206 Piccadilly, Mayfair | SW1Y 6WW | 0843/290–8549 | www.waterstones.com | Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Clothing

Burberry.
Burberry, known for its ubiquitous plaids, has cultivated an edgy, high-fashion image in recent years, with designs like fetish-y boots and sexy leather jackets perfect for any catwalk. The raincoats are still a classic buy, along with plaid scarves in every color imaginable. If you’re up for a trek, there’s a huge factory outlet in Hackney on Chatham Place that has clothes and accessories for men, women, and children at half price or less. There are also branches on Brompton Road in Knightsbridge and Regent Street in Soho. | 21–23 New Bond St., Mayfair | W1S 2RE | 020/3367–3000 | www.burberry.com | Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Fodor’s Choice | Dover Street Market.
Visiting this six-floor emporium isn’t just about buying; with its creative displays and eclectic, well-chosen mix of merchandise, it’s as much art installation as store. The creation of Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo, it showcases all of the label’s collections for men and women alongside a changing roster of other designers including Erdem, Alaïa, and Givenchy—all of whom have their own customized mini-boutiques—plus avant-garde art books, vintage couture, and curiosities such as antique plaster anatomy models. You never know what you will find, which is half the fun. TIP An outpost of the Rose Bakery on the top floor makes for a yummy break. | 17–18 Dover St., Mayfair | W1S 4LT | 020/7518–0680 | www.doverstreetmarket.com | Closed Sun. | Station: Green Park.

Mackintosh.
Think of Victorian and you think of corsets, bodices, and frock coats—but did you know that the era also created the modern rubberized raincoat? Back in 1823, a Glasgow chemist named Mackintosh successfully came up with the way to interweave rubber with cloth and, in so doing, finally designed rainproof clothes (then used for horse riding). Now, just in time for the hot new “Steampunk” fashion—old Victorian meets mod engineering—this once-famous label has been reborn thanks to Japanese backers, who have also invested in a hip boutique. Far from a museum, it showcases the line’s quasi-militaristic yet casual designs. Everything old is, indeed, new again. | 104 Mount St., Mayfair | W1K 2TL | 020/7493–4678 | Closed Sun. | Station: Bond St.

Clothing: Menswear

Gieves and Hawkes.
One of the grand mens’ tailoring houses of Savile Row, this company made its name outfitting British Royals who served as officers in the armed forces and still supplies custom-made military uniforms, as well as beautifully tailored civilian wear. Prices for a bespoke suit start around £3,800 but there are also off-the-peg designs starting at around £600. | 1 Savile Row, Mayfair | W1S 3JR | 020/7434–2001 | www.gievesandhawkes.com | Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Ozwald Boateng.
Ozwald Boateng’s (pronounced Bwa-teng) dapper menswear combines contemporary funky style with traditional Savile Row quality. His made-to-measure suits have been worn by trendsetters such as Jamie Foxx, Mick Jagger, and Laurence Fishburne, who appreciate the sharp cuts, luxurious fabrics, and occasionally vibrant colors (even the more conservative choices sport jacket linings in bright silk). | 30 Savile Row, Mayfair | W1S 3PQ | 020/7437–2030 | www.ozwaldboateng.co.uk | Closed Sun. | Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Clothing: Women’s Wear

Fodor’s Choice | Alexander McQueen.
Today, the chorus of fashionistas intent on crowning a “new” McQueen are delighted that she was spotted right at the master’s feet: since McQueen’s death in 2010, his right-hand woman Sarah Burton has been at the helm, and has been receiving raves for continuing his tradition of theatrical, darkly romantic, and beautifully cut clothes incorporating corsetry, lace, embroidery, and hourglass silhouettes, all of which were exemplified in Burton’s celebrated wedding dress for Kate Middleton. Ms. Burton is still the star of the moment, as her 2013 show in Paris won rave reviews for its spectacular feather-and-chiffon gowns and the fact that she has remained true to the forms first forged by Lee McQueen’s in the late 90s (such as the low-slung “bumster” trousers). Can’t afford a gala gown? Go home with a skull-printed scarf. | 4-5 Old Bond St., Mayfair | W1S 4PD | 020/7355–0088 | www.alexandermcqueen.com | Closed Sun. | Station: Bond St.

Fodor’s Choice | Browns.
This shop—actually a collection of small shops—was a pioneer designer boutique in the 1970s and continues to talent-spot the newest and best around. You may find the windows showcasing the work of top graduates from this year’s student shows or displaying well-established designers such as Marni, Chloé, Alexander McQueen, Dries Van Noten, or Temperley. The men’s store at No. 23 has a similar designer selection, while Browns Focus, across the street at Nos. 38–39, showcases youthful, hip designs and denim. There is a bargain outlet at No. 50 and a smaller boutique at 6C Sloane Street. If you’re about to go down the aisle, check out the two bridal boutiques; one at 11–12 Hinde Street, which stocks various designers, and another at 59 Brook Street, off New Bond Street, devoted to Vera Wang gowns exclusive to Browns in the United Kingdom. | 24–27 S. Molton St., Mayfair | W1K 5RD | 020/7514–0000 | www.brownsfashion.com | Closed Sun. | Station: Bond St.

Fodor’s Choice | b Store.
Some people regard b Store as the best small clothing boutique in London. Head here for cutting-edge pieces from avant-garde designers such as Sophie Hume, plus the store’s quirky own-label shoes, men and women’s clothing, and accessories. | 21 Kingly St., Soho | W1B 5QA | 020/7734–6846 | www.bstorelondon.com | Closed Sun. | Station: Piccadilly Circus, Oxford Circus.

Fenwick.
A manageably sized department store, Fenwick is a welcome haven of affordability in a shopping area where stratospheric prices are the norm. The store is particularly strong on accessories (notably lingerie, wraps, and hats), cosmetics, perfumes and chic, wearable fashion by both established and emerging designers such as Issa and Richard Nicholl. There are also three small spas (Chantecaille, Clarins, and Pure Massage), a nail bar, a brow bar, and a restaurant, plus a men’s department in the basement. | 163 New Bond St., Mayfair | W1S 2UB | 020/7629–9161 | www.fenwick.co.uk | Station: Bond St.

Matthew Williamson.
Sinuous, feminine, and floaty, Williamson’s designs—often incorporating bright prints and embellishment—are the epitome of rich-hippie chic, and are favorites with such well-heeled free spirits as Kate Moss and Sienna Miller. Even if you can’t manage to get to a beach party on Ibiza, a Williamson dress will put you in the spirit. | 28 Bruton St., Mayfair | W1J 6QH | 020/7629–6200 | www.matthewwilliamson.com | Station: Bond St.

Nicole Farhi.
Busy working women who value unfussy quality invest in Farhi’s softly tailored yet functional dresses and separates, and her contemporary yet timeless styles are wardrobe staples. There are several locations throughout the city, with the flagship New Bond Street store selling clothes for both men and women (as well as boasting a restaurant, Nicole’s, that is more than just somewhere to resuscitate between purchases). A branch devoted to homewares is around the corner on Clifford Street, while the full men’s collection is available at the Floral Street branch. | 158 New Bond St., Mayfair | W1S 2UB | 020/7499–8368 | www.nicolefarhi.com | Station: Bond St.

Stella McCartney.
It’s not easy emerging from the shadow of a Beatle father, but Stella McCartney has become a major force in fashion in her own right. Her signature tuxedo pantsuits embody her design philosophy, combining minimalist tailoring with femininity and sophistication with ease of wear. Her love of functionality and clean lines has led to her branching off into sportswear, designing a line for Adidas and dressing Team GB for the London Olympics. Being a vegetarian like her mother Linda, her refusal to use fur or leather has made her a favorite with ethical fashionistas. There’s another boutique on the Brompton Road. | 30 Bruton St., Mayfair | W1J 6QR | 020/751–8310 | www.stellamccartney.com.uk | Closed Sun. | Station: Bond St.

Fodor’s Choice | Vivienne Westwood.
From beginnings as the most shocking and outré designer around, Westwood has become a standard bearer for high-style British couture. The boutique under the backwards-spinning clock in Chelsea is where it all started: the lavish corseted ball gowns, the dandyfied nipped-waist jackets, and the tartan with a punk edge that formed the core of her signature look. Here you can still buy ready-to-wear, mainly the more casual Anglomania diffusion line and the exclusive Worlds End label based on the archives. The small Davies Street boutique sells only the more exclusive, expensive Gold Label and Couture collections (plus bridal), while the flagship Conduit Street store carries all of the above. | 44 Conduit St., Mayfair | W1S 2YL | 020/7439–1109 | Closed Sun. | Station: Oxford Circus | Original boutique, 430 King’s Rd., Chelsea | SW10 0LJ | 020/7352–6551 | Closed Sun. | Station: Sloane Sq.

Department Stores

Fodor’s Choice | Liberty.
Liberty’s wonderful black-and-white mock-Tudor facade created from the timbers of two Royal Navy ships reflects the store’s origins in the late-19th-century’s Arts and Crafts movement. Leading designers were recruited from this and the aesthetic movement to create the classic art nouveau Liberty prints that are still a centerpiece of the brand, gracing everything from cushions and silk kimonos to embossed leather bags and photo albums. Inside, Liberty’s is a labyrinth of nooks and crannies stuffed with thoughtfully chosen merchandise. The carpet and furniture departments are worth a look even if you’re not buying. Clothes for both men and women focus on high quality and high fashion. The store regularly commissions new prints from contemporary designers, and sells both these and its archival patterns by the yard. If you’re not so handy with a needle, an interior design service will create soft furnishings for you. | Regent St., Soho | W1B 5AH | 020/7734–1234 | www.liberty.co.uk | Station: Oxford Circus.

Thomas Goode.
This spacious luxury homewares shop has been at the same smart Mayfair address since 1845. The china, silver, crystal, and linens are either of the store’s own design and manufacture or are simply the best that money can buy, a legacy of its original customer base of international royals and heads of state. The store still holds two royal warrants, but anyone who can afford it can commission their own bespoke set of china. TIP If such luxury is beyond you, visit anyway for the shop’s small museum of plates, either antique or designed for royalty, including some created for Princess Diana’s wedding. | 19 S. Audley St., Mayfair | W1K 2BN | 020/7499–2823 | www.thomasgoode.co.uk | Station: Green Park.

Food

Charbonnel et Walker.
Britain’s master chocolatier since 1875, this Mayfair shop specializes in traditional handmade chocolates (violet and rose-petal creams, for example) and has been creating these beautifully packaged, high-quality sweets from long before most of today’s fashionable brands appeared. TIP Their drinking chocolate—coarsely grated fine chocolate in a tin—is worth carrying home in a suitcase. 28 Old Bond St., Mayfair | W1S 4BT | 020/7491–0939 | www.charbonnel.co.uk | Closed Sun. | Station: Green Park.

Jewelry

Asprey.
Created by architect Norman Foster and interior designer David Mlinaric, this “global flagship” store displays exquisite jewelry—as well as silver and leather goods, watches, china, and crystal—in a discreet, very British setting that oozes quality, expensive good taste, and hushed comfort. If you’re in the market for an immaculate 1930s cigarette case, a crystal vase, or a pair of pavé diamond and sapphire earrings, you won’t be disappointed. And, for the really well-heeled, there’s a custom-made jewelry service available as well. | 167 New Bond St., Mayfair | W1S 4AY | 020/7493–6767 | www.asprey.com | Station: Green Park.

Garrard.
Formally known as “Garrard, the Crown Jeweler,” this company has been creating royal crowns since Queen Victoria’s reign (you can see several on display in the Tower of London). Today the focus is on precious gems in simple, classic settings, along with silver accessories. Although some collections, such as Entanglement and Wings (minimalist hoop earrings and pendants with a wing motif), are definitely contemporary, many of the designs are traditional and impressive, should you be in the market for an old-school diamond tiara. | 24 Albemarle St., Mayfair | W1S 4HT | 020/7518–1070 | www.garrard.com | Station: Green Park.

Shoes

Beatrix Ong.
This young designer trained under Jimmy Choo, and her collection is just as sexy and bold, with a ready-to-wear collection of strappy sandals and stilettos. Brides-to-be are also well catered for. | 188 Pavillion Rd., Chelsea | SW3 2BF | 020/7463–7369 | www.beatrixong.com | Station: Sloane Sq.

Nicholas Kirkwood.
You won’t be able to hike in Kirkwood’s imaginative, elegant, sky-high stilettos, but you will be able to make quite an entrance. Pick up something from the creative shoemaker’s own line, his collaborations with designers Rodarte and Peter Pilotto, or even one of the 12 designs inspired by artist Keith Haring at Kirkwood’s first retail boutique. | 5B Mount St., Mayfair | W1K 3NE | 020/7499–5781 | www.nicholaskirkwood.com | Closed Sun. | Station: Green Park.

Rupert Sanderson.
Designed in London and made in Italy, Sanderson’s elegant shoes have been a huge hit in fashion circles. Ladylike styles, bright colors, smart details, and a penchant for peep toes are signature elements. Prices reflect the impeccable craftsmanship. There’s now a tiny outpost next to Harrods at 2A Hans Road. | 33 Bruton Pl., Mayfair | W1J 6PN | 0207/491–2220 | www.rupertsanderson.com | Closed Sun. | Station: Bond St., Green Park.

St. James’s

Accessories: Hats

James Lock & Co. Ltd.
Need a silk top hat, a flat-weave Panama, or a traditional tweed flat cap? James Lock of St. James’s has been providing hats from this cozy shop since 1676 for customers ranging from Admiral Lord Nelson, Oscar Wilde, and Frank Sinatra to, more recently, Robert Downey Jr. and Guy Ritchie, as well as trendsetting musicians and models. | 6 St. James’s St., St. James’s | SW1A 1EF | 020/7930–8884 | www.lockhatters.co.uk | Closed Sun. | Station: Green Park, Piccadilly Circus.

Swaine Adeney Brigg.
This shop has been selling practical supplies for country pursuits since 1750. Not just for the horsey set, the store carries beautifully crafted umbrellas, walking sticks, and hip flasks, or ingenious combinations of same, such as the umbrella with a slim tipple-holding flask secreted inside the stem. The same level of quality and craftsmanship applies to the store’s leather goods, which include attaché cases and wallets. Downstairs you’ll find scarves, caps, and the Herbert Johnson “Poet Hat,” the iconic headgear (stocked since 1890) worn by Harrison Ford in every Indiana Jones film. | 54 St. James’s St., St. James’s | SW1A 1JT | 020/7409–7277 | www.swaineadeney.co.uk | Closed Sun. | Station: Green Park.

Beauty

Fodor’s Choice | Floris.
What do Queen Victoria and Marilyn Monroe have in common? They both used fragrances from Floris, one of the most beautiful shops in London, with gleaming glass-and-Spanish-mahogany showcases salvaged from the Great Exhibition of 1851. In addition to scents for both men and women, Floris makes its own shaving products, reflecting its origins as a barbershop. Other gift possibilities include goose-down powder puffs, cut-glass atomizers, and a famous rose-scented mouthwash, as well as beautifully-packaged soaps and bath essences. | 89 Jermyn St., St. James’s | SW1Y 6JH | 020/7930–2885 | www.florislondon.com | Closed Sun. | Station: Piccadilly Circus, Green Park.

Books

Fodor’s Choice | Hatchards.
This is London’s oldest bookshop, open since 1797 and beloved by writers themselves (customers have included Oscar Wilde, Rudyard Kipling, and Lord Byron). Despite its wood-paneled, “gentleman’s library” atmosphere, and eclectic selection of books, Hatchards is owned by the large Waterstone’s chain. Nevertheless, the shop still retains its period charm, aided by the staff’s old-fashioned helpfulness and expertise. Look for the substantial number of books signed by notable contemporary authors on the well-stocked shelves. | 187 Piccadilly, St. James’s | W1J 9LE | 020/7439–9921 | www.hatchards.co.uk | Station: Piccadilly Circus.

Clothing: Men

Thomas Pink.
This specialist chain is best known for its colorful and stylish formal shirts for both men and women, many in such fine fabrics as Sea Island or Egyptian cotton. More casual shirts are for sale as well, along with ties, boxers, pyjamas, belts, and other accessories, as are dresses, skirts, jackets, and knitwear for women. Bespoke shirts for men can be ordered at the Jermyn Street branch. There are other branches in The City, Chelsea, Canary Wharf, St. Pancras Int’l, and the Westfield shopping center. | 85 Jermyn St., St. James’s | SW1Y 6JD | 020/7930–6364 | www.thomaspink.co.uk | Station: Green Park, Piccadilly Circus.

Turnbull & Asser.
This is the custom shirtmaker, dripping exclusivity from every fiber—after all, Prince Charles is a client and every filmic James Bond has worn shirts from here. At least 15 separate measurements are taken, and the cloth, woven to the company’s specifications, comes in 1,000 different patterns—the cottons feel as good as silk. The first order must be for a minimum of six shirts, which start from £195 each. As well as jackets, cashmeres, suits, ties, pajamas, and accessories perfect for the billionaire who has everything, the store also carries less expensive, though still exquisite, ready-to-wear shirts. | 71–72 Jermyn St., St. James’s | SW1Y 6PF | 020/7808–3000 | www.turnbullandasser.com | Closed Sun. | Station: Green Park.

Food

Berry Bros. & Rudd.
Nothing matches Berry Bros. & Rudd for rare offerings and a unique shopping experience. A family-run wine business since 1698, “BBR” stores its vintage bottles and casks in vaulted cellars that are more than 300 years old. The shop has a quirky charm, and the staff is extremely knowledgeable—and not snooty if you’re on a budget. | 3 St. James’s St., St. James’s | SW1A 1EG | 020/7396–9600 | www.bbr.com | Closed Sun. | Station: Green Park.

Fodor’s Choice | Fortnum & Mason.
Although popularly known as the Queen’s grocer, and the impeccably mannered staff wear traditional tailcoats, F&M’s food hall stocks gifts for all budgets, such as loads of irresistibly packaged luxury foods stamped with the gold “By Appointment” crest for less than £5. Try the teas, preserves (unusual products include rose-petal jelly), condiments, chocolate, tins of pâté, or Gentleman’s Relish (anchovy paste). The store’s famous hampers are always a welcome gift. The gleaming food hall spans two floors and includes a sleek wine bar designed by David Collins, with the rest of the store devoted to upscale homewares, men and women’s gifts, toiletries, and accessories, women’s jewelry and cosmetics, and clothing and toys for children. If you start to flag, break for afternoon tea at one of the four other restaurants (one’s an indulgent ice-cream parlor)—or a treatment in the Beauty Rooms. | 181 Piccadilly, St. James’s | W1A 1ER | 020/7734–8040 | www.fortnumandmason.com | Station: Green Park.

Paxton & Whitfield.
In business for more than 200 years, this venerable and aromatic London shop stocks many of the world’s greatest artisinal cheeses, particularly British and French varieties (a homesick General de Gaulle shopped here during World War II). The cheeses are laid on straw on refrigerated shelves, with tasting samples set out on a marble-top counter. You can pick up some ham, pâté, condiments, preserves, or wine to accompany your cheese. | 93 Jermyn St., St. James’s | SW1Y 6JE | 020/7930–0259 | www.paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk | Closed Sun. | Station: Piccadilly Circus, Green Park.

Toys

The Armoury of St. James’s.
The fine toy soldiers and military models in stock here are collectors’ items. Painted and mounted knights only 6 inches high can cost up to £1,200 (though figures start at a mere £7.50 for a toy soldier). Besides lead and tin soldiers, the shop has regimental brooches, porcelain figures, military memorabilia, and military antiques. | 17 Piccadilly Arcade, St. James’s | SW1Y 6NH | 020/7493–5082 | www.armoury.co.uk | Closed Sun. | Station: Piccadilly Circus, Green Park.

Covent Garden

Market

Covent Garden.
Covent Garden is actually three markets. Forty stalls selling jewelry, clothes, pottery, and other crafts congregate in the covered area, originally designed by Inigo Jones, known as the Apple Market. The Jubilee Market, in Jubilee Hall toward Southampton Street, tends towards the more pedestrian (kitschy T-shirts, unremarkable household goods, and the like) on Tuesday through Friday, but offers a selection of vintage collectibles on Monday and worthwhile handmade goods on weekends. The East Colonnade market specializes in handmade items ranging from soaps to leather goods and children’s clothing, while the surrounding arcades house a variety of specialty shops (including the world’s largest Apple Store). Covent Garden is something of a tourist magnet, which may be reflected in the prices, but don’t miss the magicians, mimes, musicians, acrobats, and escape artists who perform in the open-air piazza. | The Piazza, off Wellington St., Covent Garden | WC2E | Daily 9–7 (varies) | Station: Covent Garden.

Books and Prints

Grosvenor Prints.
London’s largest collection of 17th- to-early 20th-century prints emphasizes views of the city and architecture as well as sporting and decorative motifs. The selection is eclectic, with prices ranging from £5 into the thousands. | 19 Shelton St., Covent Garden | WC24 9JN | 020/7836–1979 | www.grosvenorprints.com | Closed Sun. | Station: Covent Garden, Leicester Sq.

Fodor’s Choice | Stanfords.
When it comes to encyclopedic coverage, there is simply no better travel shop on the planet. Stanfords is packed with a comprehensive selection of maps, guide books, and travel gadgets. Whether you’re planning a day trip to Surrey or an adventure to the South Pole, this should be your first stop. Dig the floors here: gigantic blowups of maps. | 12–14 Long Acre, Covent Garden | WC2E 9LP | 020/7836–1321 | www.stanfords.co.uk | Station: Covent Garden.

Clothing

Paul Smith.
British classics with an irreverent twist define Paul Smith’s collections for women, men, and children. Beautifully tailored men’s suits in exceptional fabrics might sport flamboyant linings or unusual detailing. Women’s lines tend to take hallmarks of traditional British style and turn them on their heads with humor and color. Gift ideas abound—wallets, scarves, diaries, spectacles, even a soccer ball—all in Smith’s signature rainbow stripes. There are several branches throughout London, in Notting Hill, South Kensington, Chelsea, and Borough Market, plus a vintage furniture shop at 9 Albemarle Street in Mayfair and a shoes and accessories shop on Marylebone High Street. | 40–44 Floral St., Covent Garden | WC2E 9TB | 020/7379–7133 | www.paulsmith.co.uk | Station: Covent Garden.

Clothing: Women’s Wear

Orla Kiely.
This Irish designer is probably best known for her appealingly simple retro-tinged prints (based on everyday objects like cars and mugs or more abstract designs), which appear on everything from dresses and raincoats to lamp shades, diaries, towels, sheets, kitchenware, and wallpapers—all showcased in this airy flagship store (there’s another branch on King’s Road in Chelsea). You can also pick up bags, wallets, radios, and MacBook sleeves bearing her signature leaf print. | 31 Monmouth St., Covent Garden | WC2H 9DD | 020/7240–4022 | www.orlakiely.com | Station: Covent Garden.

Poste Mistress.
This boudoir-styled boutique outpost of the Office chain features gorgeous, high-heeled (and pricey) styles from designers like Stella McCartney, Dries van Noten, Miu Miu, as well as the Poste Mistress line. More casual alternatives, such as Vivienne Westwood rubber booties and Converse sneakers, are also available. There’s a branch devoted to designer men’s shoes on South Moulton Street in Mayfair. | 61Monmouth St., Covent Garden | WC2H 9EP | 020/7379–4040 | www.office.co.uk | 10 South Molton St., Mayfair| Station: Covent Garden.

Fodor’s Choice | United Nude.
Co-created by noted architect Rem D Koolhaas (who also designed this Covent Garden flagship store) and Galahad Clark (of the Clark’s shoes dynasty), these distinctive, futuristic designs that use up-to-the-minute techniques such as carbon fiber heels and injection-molded soles are flattering and surprisingly comfortable. There are other branches in Camden, Mayfair, and St. James’s. | 13 Floral St., Covent Garden | WC2E 8PA | 0207/240–7106 | 61–63 Monmouth St., Covent Garden | WC2H 9EP | 020/7379–4040 | www.office.co.uk | Station: Covent Garden.

Household

Cath Kidston.
If you love chintz and colorful patterns, then stop by Cath Kidston. Her signature look is bright, feminine textiles—ginghams, polka dots, and lots of big, blooming roses—pasted over everything in sight, from ceramics and bed linens to fine china, stationery, and doggie beds. There are several clothing and nightwear lines for women and children, along with handbags, totes, and cosmetic bags. Everything in this shop is basically a canvas for Kidston’s ladylike prints. There are branches throughout the city, including ones in Chelsea, Marylebone, and Notting Hill. | 28–32 Shelton St., Covent Garden | WC2H 9JE | 020/7836–4803 | www.cathkidston.co.uk | Station: Covent Garden.

Toys

Fodor’s Choice | Benjamin Pollock’s Toyshop.
This Covent Garden Piazza shop carries on the tradition of its eponymous founder, who sold miniature theater stages made from richly detailed paper from the late-19th century until his death in 1937. Among his admirers was Robert Louis Stevenson, who wrote, “If you love art, folly, or the bright eyes of children, speed to Pollock’s.” Today the antique model theaters tend to be expensive, but there are plenty of magical reproductions for under 10 pounds. There’s also an extensive selection of new but nostalgic puppets, marionettes, teddy bears, spinning tops, jack-in-the-boxes, and similar traditional children’s toys from the days before batteries were required. | 44 The Market, Covent Garden | WC2E 8RF | 020/7379–7866 | www.pollocks-coventgarden.co.uk | Station: Covent Garden.

Soho

Accessories

Fodor’s Choice | Peckham Rye.
The epicenter of “Swinging London” in the mid-ʼ60s has recently undergone a renaissance, particularly in the “Newburgh Quarter,” the small cobbled streets leading off Carnaby Street. Here’s where you’ll find small specialist boutiques such as Peckham Rye, a family-owned business that sells men’s accessories—handmade silk and twill ties (the name is Cockney rhyming slang for same), bow ties, and scarves, all using traditional patterns from their archives, plus socks, striped shirts, and hankies. Fans include modern day Beau Brummels like Mark Ronson and David Beckham. | 11 Newburgh St., Soho | W1F 7RW | 0207/734–5181 | www.peckhamrye.com | Station: Oxford Street.

Books

Fodor’s Choice | Foyles.
Founded in 1903 by the Foyle brothers after they failed the Civil Service exam, the five floors of this quirky, labyrinthine store (still family-owned) carries almost every title imaginable. One of London’s best sources for textbooks, Foyles also stocks everything from popular fiction to military history, sheet music, medical tomes, opera scores, and handsome illustrated fine arts books. It also offers the store-within-a-store Ray’s Jazz (one of London’s better outlets for music), a cool café, and even a piranha tank on the children’s floor. Foyles has branches in the Southbank Centre, St. Pancras International train station (the Eurostar’s U.K. terminus), and the Westfield shopping centers in Shepherd’s Bush and Stratford. | 113–119 Charing Cross Rd., Soho | WC2H 0EB | 020/7437–5660 | www.foyles.co.uk | Station: Tottenham Court Rd. | Royal Festival Hall, South Bank | SE1 8XX | 020/7437–5660 | Station: Waterloo

Clothing

Aquascutum.
Known for offering quintessentially British style at prices that are reasonable for this level of workmanship, Aquascutum carries timeless men’s suits and knitwear as well as a surprisingly funky women’s collection with a fresh take on items like tunics and jersey dresses. Aquascutum’s founder, John Emary, made his name by pioneering a rain-repellent cloth (the name means “water shield” in Latin) and designing a trench coat—as worn by Churchill and Cary Grant—that remains a signature item of the brand to this day. There is a branch at Canary Wharf, plus you’ll find Aquascutum concessions within Austin Reed and Jaeger on Regent Street and within several West End department stores. | 162A Sloane St., Knightsbridge | SW1X 9B5 | 0784/145–2274 | www.aquascutum.co.uk | Closed Sun. | Station: Knightsbridge.

Clothing: Women’s Wear

Reiss.
With an in-house design team whose experience includes stints at Gucci and Calvin Klein and customers like Beyoncé and the Duchess of Cambridge (formerly Kate Middleton, who wore a Reiss dress for her official engagement picture), this hot chain brings luxury standards of tailoring and details to mass-market women’s and menswear. The sleek and contemporary style is not cheap, but does offer value for money. There are branches in Knightsbridge, The City, Covent Garden, Chelsea, Hampstead, Notting Hill, Soho, and basically all over London. | 10 Barrett St., Fitzrovia | W1U 1BA | 020/7486–6557 | www.reissonline.com | Station: Oxford Street.

Fodor’s Choice | Topshop.
Since its transition from cheesy-but-cheap to genuine fashion (but still affordable) hot spot, numerous foreign fashion editors have made Topshop their first port of call when in London. Clothes and accessories are geared to the younger end of the market, although women who are young at heart and girlish of figure can find plenty of wearable items here. However, you will need a high tolerance for loud music and busy dressing rooms. While the main aim is still to produce low-cost copies of runway trends as fast as possible, the store also has its own in-house high-end designer line called Topshop Unique and a vintage department in the basement. As well, each season an ever-changing array of fashion icons such as Kate Moss—along with a roster of emerging designers—create small collections for the in-store boutique. Innovations such as personal style advisers, an on-site nail bar, and a cupcake stand are constantly being introduced. Topman brings the same fast-fashion approach to clothing for men. TIP If the crowds become too much, head to one of the numerous smaller Topshops in town, such as the ones on Kensington High Street and in Knightsbridge. | 214 Oxford St., Oxford Street | W1W 8LG | 020/927–7700 | www.topshop.com | Station: Oxford Circus | 42–44 Kensington High St., Kensington | W8 4PE | 020/7938–1242 | Station: High Street Kensington.

Food

The Vintage House.
If whisky is more to your taste than wine, you may want to visit the Vintage House, which has the country’s largest selection of single malts (more than 1,400), many notable for their age. The shop is open late—to 11 pm most nights. | 42 Old Compton St., Soho | W1D 4LR | 020/7437–2592 | Station: Piccadilly Circus, Leicester Sq., Tottenham Court Rd.

Music

BM Soho.
House, drum ‘n’ bass, electro, dubstep—this shop (formerly Blackmarket Records) is London’s longest-established dance music store and stocks the hottest club music around. They carry some CDs, but this is really a shop for vinyl lovers. | 25 D’Arblay St., Soho | W1F 8EJ | 020/7437–0478 | www.bm-soho.com | Station: Oxford Circus, Tottenham Court Rd.

Shoes

Irregular Choice.
If you want to blend in with the crowd, these shoes are not for you. But if you like footwear that is fun, quirky, and flattering (not to mention reasonably priced), head for Irregular Choice. Styles tend towards Louis XIV-like court shoes ornamented with ribbon ties or silk flowers, or pumps in interesting patterns ranging from polka dots to houndstooth to florals to gray tweed with orange baseball stitching, as well as bewelled flats, leopard-print boots, and red patent leather stilettoes. Best of all, many have round toes and supportive heels, proving that comfortable doesn’t have to be dull. | 35 Carnaby St., Soho | W1F 7DT | 0207/494–4811 | www.irregularchoice.com | Station: Oxford Circus.

Toys

Fodor’s Choice | Hamleys.
Besieged by pester power? Don’t worry, help is at hand—this London institution has six floors of the latest dolls, soft toys, video games, and technological devices (plus such old-fashioned pleasures as train sets, drum kits, and magic tricks), with every must-have on the pre-teen shopping list. Some may find the offerings to be overly commercialized (it’s heavy on movie and TV tie-ins), and the store only got rid of its separate pink and blue floors for girls and boys in 2011 after a protest campaign. Nevertheless, when British children visit London, Hamleys is at the top of their agenda. It’s a madhouse at Christmastime, but Santa’s grotto is one of the best in town. There’s a smaller branch in St. Pancras International train station. | 188–196 Regent St., Soho | W1B 5BT | 0800/280–2444 | www.hamleys.com | Station: Oxford Circus, Piccadilly Circus.

Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents