GRAVLAX INFUSED WITH CHILES, CILANTRO, AND TEQUILA
MARINATED GOAT CHEESE WITH CHILES AND MINT
SUMMER ROLLS WITH APPLES AND CHIPOTLE
SEARED TUNA WITH TROPICAL SALSA
CHILLED SHRIMP WITH SMOKED TOMATO RELISH
BBQ SHRIMP PACKED WITH SERRANO-HERB BUTTER
QUESADILLAS WITH PAPAYA AND BRIE
SPICY SMOKED BABY BACK RIBLETS
SALMON SATAY WITH ZIGZAG SAUCE
SHRIMP DUMPLINGS WITH CHILE CREAM SAUCE
MEATBALLS WITH BLACK PEPPER, SERRANO, AND HOT SAUCE
SERVES 8 TO 12
This recipe adds a Mexican twist to a Scandinavian classic by replacing vodka, fresh dill, and ground black pepper with tequila, chopped cilantro, and fresh chiles. To serve this for a Saturday night dinner party, begin curing the salmon on Thursday. The key is salting and weighting the fish. The salt pulls the moisture from the fish, while the weight pressing down on the salmon gives the fish a firm, dense texture. Curing a smaller amount of salmon than this is impractical. If serving this to a small group, the unused cured salmon will keep in the refrigerator for 3 days. Use it for sandwiches, snacks, salads, and more appetizers.
TEQUILA MARINADE
1 cup inexpensive tequila
4 serrano chiles, minced, including the seeds
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems
¼ cup minced fresh ginger
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons salt
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, preferably Mexican
1 pound fresh center-cut salmon fillet, skin and pinbones removed
FINISHING SAUCE
½ cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, tender leaves and stems
1 serrano chile, minced, including the seeds
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest
½ teaspoon salt
30 water crackers or 1 hothouse cucumber, for serving
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems, or parsley
To make the tequila marinade, combine all of the ingredients in a small bowl. Place the salmon and the marinade in a resealable plastic bag. Securely close the bag, place on a tray, and refrigerate. Then place a 5-quart pot filled with cold water on the salmon. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 days. It is unnecessary to turn the salmon.
Within 2 hours of serving, remove the salmon from the refrigerator. With a wet hand, wipe the marinade off the salmon on both sides. Very thinly slice the salmon into about 30 pieces. Press a piece of plastic wrap across the top so that the slices do not dry out, and refrigerate until ready to serve.
To make the finishing sauce, combine all of the ingredients in a small bowl. Stir well.
If serving with cucumber, cut the cucumber crosswise into 30 thin slices, each about ⅛ inch thick. To serve, place the salmon on the crackers or sliced cucumber. Top with the sauce and garnish with the cilantro. Serve within 30 minutes.
Ritual dances of the Indian cultures are performed at the beginning of every Catholic procession as well as special feast days.
SERVES 6 TO 10
It’s important to use flawlessly fresh fish here. The fish is “cooked” by soaking in a lime juice bath for 3 hours. It is then tossed with extra-virgin olive oil, serrano chiles, and other seasonings. Placed on a little guacamole at the fat end of endive leaves, this recipe is a colorful, flavorful, textural marvel. You can substitute other fish, such as tuna, swordfish, and sea bass. For presentation variations, serve the ceviche on rice crackers, tortilla chips, or thinly sliced hothouse cucumber.
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
1 clove garlic, minced
1 serrano chile, minced, including the seeds
3 to 4 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems
1 small whole green onion, minced
¼ cup chopped red bell pepper
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
½ teaspoon salt
¼ pound fresh salmon fillet, skinned and pinbones removed
¼ pound fresh bay scallops or fresh sea scallops, thinly sliced
½ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
½ cup Guacamole
16 endive leaves
Combine the olive oil, ginger, garlic, chile, cilantro, green onion, red bell pepper, nutmeg, and salt in a covered airtight bowl and refrigerate. This can be completed 8 hours before serving and kept refrigerated.
Cut the salmon crosswise into ¼-inch slices; then cut across the slices to make ¼-inch pieces. Mound the scallops together and cut into thin slices—these do not have to be all the same size. Place the salmon and scallops in a medium bowl. Cover with the lime juice and refrigerate for 3 hours. To serve, drain the salmon and scallops. Stir the seafood into the gingercilantro mixture until evenly combined. Place about 1 teaspoon of the guacamole at the fat end of each endive leaf. Add a spoonful of the ceviche. Arrange on a serving platter and refrigerate. This can be done 2 hours before serving.
SERVES 8 TO 12
It’s the infused oil that gives this goat cheese an intense and exciting flavor. The marinated goat cheese is also very good used as a filling for the center stalks of celery, on taco chips, or with your favorite rice crackers. In terms of technique, since goat cheese tears easily, cut the goat cheese with dental floss rather than with a knife.
1 (12-ounce) log soft goat cheese, about 1 inch in diameter, chilled
1 serrano chile, minced, including the seeds
3 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup slivered fresh mint leaves or chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems
1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon tricolor peppercorns
1 teaspoon allspice berries
½ teaspoon ancho or chipotle chile powder (optional)
30 of your favorite crackers or Belgian endive leaves, for serving
Using dental floss, cut the goat cheese into ½-inch-thick slices. Place the slices in a single layer in a glass baking dish.
In a small bowl, combine the serrano chile, garlic, mint, and orange zest. In a 10-inch sauté pan, combine the oil, peppercorns, and allspice. Place the sauté pan over medium-high heat and cook until the peppercorns begin to pop, about 2 minutes. Turn off the heat and immediately stir in the garlic mixture. After 5 seconds of stirring, pour the hot oil mixture over the cheese. You can prepare the dish to this point up to 3 days before serving and keep it refrigerated in an airtight container.
To serve, transfer the cheese to a serving plate. Spoon some of the infused oil that has pooled around the goat cheese over the top of the goat cheese. Sprinkle the chile powder, if using, over the top. Serve at room temperature with the crackers or endive leaves.
SERVES 4 TO 8
This recipe uses Vietnamese rice paper as a wrap that is filled with rich-tasting avocado, tropical papaya, crisp apple, and crunchy cucumbers. The rolling of these can be a little taxing, so we make this recipe only when we know some of our dinner guests will be willing to lend a hand. A glass of wine helps speed the process, too. The summer rolls taste delicious dipped in any of the salsas in Chapter 2.
1 ripe avocado
1 Hawaiian papaya or 1 (2-inch) slice underripe Mexican papaya
1 tart apple, such as Pink Lady or Fuji
2 pickling cucumbers or Japanese cucumbers
16 (6½-inch) sheets rice paper wrappers, such as Flying Horse brand
½ cup cilantro sprigs
Chipotle or ancho chile powder
Your choice of salsa, for serving here
Cut the avocado in half and remove the pit. Cut each half into 8 long slices. Peel and remove the seeds from the papaya. Cut the papaya into ⅛-inch-thick slices. Then overlap the slices and cut into matchstick pieces. Stem and core the apple. Cut the apple into ¹⁄8-inch-thick slices. Overlap the apple slices and cut into matchstick pieces. Cut the cucumbers on a sharp diagonal into ⅛-inch-thick slices. Overlap the slices and cut into matchstick pieces. In a medium bowl, combine the papaya, apple, and cucumbers. Gently toss to evenly combine.
Dip 2 sheets of rice paper for 10 seconds into a bowl of very hot water. Lay the 2 sheets side by side on the counter. For each rice paper, add 1 slice avocado, ¼ cup of the papaya mixture, 1 cilantro sprig, and a generous sprinkling of chile powder. Turn the wrapper sides over the filling, and then roll into a compact cylinder. Place on a damp towel and cover with a damp towel. You can refrigerate the rolls for up to 3 hours prior to serving. Prepare a salsa.
When ready to serve, center the bowl of salsa on a round or oval serving dish. Place the rolls (not stacked or touching each other, or they’ll stick) around the salsa. Or serve individually on small plates with the salsa.
SERVES 6 TO 10
Buy only the finest-quality tuna, bright red and glistening, for this recipe. It’s given a brief searing on a blazing-hot cast-iron skillet, then cut into thin slices and placed on rounds of cucumber. Or, it can be served balanced on taco chips or in endive cups. Don’t try cooking the tuna on a gas or charcoal grill. By the time the exterior becomes lightly charred, the interior of the tuna will be overcooked.
1 pound sushi-grade tuna steak, 1 inch thick
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon finely grated lime zest
1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
1 tablespoon flavorless cooking oil
Tropical Salsa, for serving here
1 hothouse cucumber
Cut the tuna into log-shaped pieces, about 1 inch square and 4 inches long. Rub the tuna on all sides with the pepper, salt, olive oil, and lime and orange zests.
Heat a cast-iron frying pan over high heat until very hot, about 3 minutes. When very hot, brush with the cooking oil, then immediately add the tuna. Sear the tuna for 15 seconds on each side, for a total cooking time of 1 minute. The tuna should be raw to rare in the center. Transfer to a cutting board, and cut the tuna into twenty ¼-inch-thick slices. This can be done 4 hours ahead; refrigerate the tuna in an airtight container. Make the Tropical Salsa.
To assemble, cut the cucumber crosswise into twenty ⅛-inch-thick slices. Place a single layer of cucumber slices on a serving platter. Add 1 slice of tuna on top of each cucumber slice. Top each with a little salsa.
The younger generation enjoys learning the Indian dances and traditions.
SERVES 8 TO 12
Chilled shrimp and a rich tomato relish are nestled together here in martini glasses. The relish is also very good spooned over meat or fish just removed from the grill or oven. It’s also excellent without the shrimp and poured into shooter or tequila glasses and served chilled as an appetizer on its own.
1½ pounds (13–15 count) raw extra-large shrimp, shells on
5 large vine-ripened tomatoes, about 1½ pounds
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
¼ cup lightly packed light brown sugar
¼ cup red or white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1-2 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce
2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ teaspoon salt
¼ cup crumbled queso fresco or crema
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems
Prepare an ice water bath in a large bowl. Bring 4 quarts of water in a large pot to a vigorous boil over high heat. Add the shrimp and cook for exactly 3 minutes. Immediately transfer the shrimp to the ice water and submerge. Chill for 5 minutes. Peel the shrimp, leaving the tails on. Cut along the top ridge and devein. Refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to use within 24 hours.
Prepare a hot fire in a gas or charcoal grill. With a serrated knife, slice off and discard the tomato tops and bottoms. Cut the tomatoes in half horizontally. Sprinkle both sides with the granulated sugar. When the grill is very hot, transfer the tomato slices to the grill. Grill until charred on the underside, about 5 minutes. Turn the tomatoes over, cover, and char for 3 more minutes. Remove from the grill and let cool slightly.
Discard the tomato skins and place the tomatoes in a blender. Add the brown sugar, vinegar, Worcestershire, chipotle, ginger, garlic, and salt. Blend to a smooth consistency. Transfer the tomato mixture to a medium saucepan. Boil on medium-high heat until thick, about 4 minutes. You will have about 2 cups. Remove from the stove and refrigerate. This can be done 24 hours in advance; refrigerate the relish in an airtight container.
To assemble, pour the chilled relish into 6 to 8 martini glasses. Place 3 chilled shrimp in each glass. Just before serving, garnish with the crumbled queso fresco and the chopped cilantro.
SERVES 6 TO 10
First the shrimp shells are snipped open along the top ridge. Then a spicy garlic butter is rubbed between the shells and shrimp. In this manner the Serrano-Herb Butter stays trapped between the shell and shrimp, adding a profoundly intense taste as each shrimp is peeled and eaten. If you don’t want to serve the shrimp shell-on, you can peel them. If you do, melt the herb butter in a saucepan. Just before grilling the shrimp, toss the raw shrimp with the melted butter. Then grill the shrimp, brushing on more melted butter during cooking. But beware of flame-ups!
2 pounds large to jumbo raw shrimp, shells on
4 cloves garlic, peeled
3 serrano chiles
½ cup packed fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems
Finely grated zest of 2 limes
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup butter, cut into 8 pieces, at room temperature
2 limes, cut into wedges
Using scissors, cut along the top ridge of each of the shrimp shells. Devein without dislodging the shells.
Using a food processor, mince the garlic. Stem the chiles and cut into small pieces. With the machine running, drop the chiles into the food processor with the garlic. When minced, add the cilantro and mince again. Add the lime zest, salt, and butter to the food processor, and run the machine until all becomes a smooth mix.
Place the herb butter underneath the shrimp shells by putting a little herb butter on your index finger and then smearing the butter under the shell. The butter does not have to be under the entire shell, just a little bit on each side of the shrimp. This can be completed up to 12 hours ahead; refrigerate the shrimp in an airtight container.
Prepare a medium-hot fire in a gas or charcoal grill. To cook the shrimp, place the shrimp on the grill, and cook until the shells blacken and the shrimp are cooked through, turning them over several times (to test for doneness, cut into the shrimp). Serve with the lime wedges.
SERVES 6 TO 10
This is a very easy and utterly delicious appetizer with a real flavor explosion. Of course, Brie is not authentically Mexican, but the taste is sublime and it melts beautifully. Buy an inexpensive firm Brie. Quesadillas taste best when cooked in a frying pan with a little butter. But they can also be toasted on the grill until heated through. Use a pizza cutter to divide the quesadillas into wedges. For more texture, sprinkle ¼ cup chopped jicama across the surface of each quesadilla.
About 4 ounces not-quite-ripe papaya
4 ounces firm Brie
4 (10-inch) flour tortillas
½ cup Mexican Chile Sauce or taco sauce
1 cup Guacamole
2 whole green onions, minced
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Peel, seed, and very thinly slice the papaya. Cut the Brie into very thin pieces, including the rind.
Place the tortillas on the counter. Spread 2 tortillas with the chile sauce (¼ cup for each tortilla), and the other 2 tortillas with the guacamole. On top of the sauce, add even layers of the papaya, Brie, green onions, and cilantro. Cover with the other tortillas (guacamole side down) and press firmly. This can be completed up to 2 hours before; refrigerate the quesadillas.
To cook the quesadillas, place a 12-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add 1½ teaspoons of the butter. When the butter melts and becomes light golden, add 1 quesadilla. Spin the quesadilla a few times to evenly distribute the butter. Cook until golden, about 30 seconds, then turn the quesadilla over and cook on its second side until golden, about 30 seconds.
Transfer the quesadilla to a plate. Cover with a dry kitchen towel to keep warm. Add the remaining 1½ teaspoons butter and cook the second quesadilla in the same way. Cut the quesadillas into wedges and serve.
SERVES 4 TO 8
These ribs are coated with a spicy, complex sauce. By having the butcher cut the rack in half horizontally to produce 2 equal strips of ribs, they are easy to cut, serve, and consume! The ribs are also great served as an entrée, accompanied by Yellow Watermelon Salad, Mexican Garlic Bread, and large servings of Coconut Ice Cream. Your dinner guests will never want to leave!
3 to 5 chipotle chiles in adobo sauce
8 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup minced fresh ginger
2 whole green onions, chopped
2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 (1-inch) cinnamon stick, preferably Mexican
1 teaspoon salt
1 rack pork back ribs, silverskin removed by your butcher and ribs cut in half horizontally
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
⅓ cup crema
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems
Mince the chipotle chiles and combine them with the garlic, ginger, and green onions in a small bowl. In a clean electric spice grinder, combine the coriander, cumin, cinnamon, and salt. Grind to a powder. Rub both sides of the ribs with the chipotle mixture. Then rub the meat vigorously with the spices. Last, rub the ribs with the olive oil. The ribs can be marinated up to 8 hours in advance and stored covered in the refrigerator.
To cook, bring the ribs to room temperature if necessary. Prepare a low fire in a charcoal or gas grill (about 300°F). Place the ribs in a rib rack and position the rib rack over indirect heat. Alternatively, lay the ribs meaty side up directly on the cooking grate, positioned away from the heat. Cover the grill and cook the ribs until the meat has begun to shrink away from the ends of the bones, about 1½ hours. (Try to maintain the heat around 300°F.)
Cut each rack into riblets and transfer to a platter. Drizzle the ribs with the crema and sprinkle with the chopped cilantro.
Note: The ribs can be kept warm for 1 hour by placing the ribs in a sealed thick paper bag on the kitchen counter. Or cook ahead, refrigerate, and then warm in a 250°F oven, covered, for 30 minutes.
SERVES 4 TO 8
Many years ago, Napa Valley chef Richard Haake was making pizzas at our home. Always on the search for new techniques, we lurked around, observing him. With a few quick motions, he layered the pizza dough thickly with guacamole and then slid the pizza into a 1,000°F pizza oven. Insane—what a sure way to ruin guacamole! It would obviously turn black from the heat. A hush fell over our dinner guests. And then suddenly there was the pizza, beautifully crisp and covered with brilliantly green guacamole. With a deft sprinkling of crumbled goat cheese and chopped roasted red pepper, the pizza was soon missing in action as dinner guests set to work fulfilling their duties. Here is what Richard achieved.
PIZZA DOUGH
¾ cup warm water
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
1 teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus a little extra
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour, bread flour, or “double 00” flour
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 ounces queso fresco or goat cheese, crumbled
½ cup roasted red pepper, chopped
To make the dough, combine the water, yeast, and sugar in a glass measuring cup. When a little foam forms on the surface, stir in 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and the salt. Measure the flour into a large bowl. Stir in the yeast mixture until the dough comes together. Knead until no longer sticky, about 5 minutes. Lightly coat the dough with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Place in a bowl and cover with a towel. Let rise at room temperature until it doubles in size, about 1 hour. Divide the dough in half. (You will need only 1 half for this recipe; place the other half in a resealable plastic bag and refrigerate or freeze for another time.) The dough can be made 1 day ahead and refrigerated.
To make the pizza, place a pizza stone on the bottom rack of the oven. Turn the oven to 525°F or the highest temperature setting and preheat for 45 minutes. Stretch the pizza dough into a very thin circle. Place the pizza dough on a wooden pizza paddle (best) or use a piece of cardboard (works OK) or the underside of a baking pan that is well floured. Spread a thick layer of the guacamole across the dough, edge to edge. Brush the edge of the pizza with the olive oil. Slide the pizza off the paddle onto the heated pizza stone. Cook until the crust becomes golden, about 12 minutes.
Remove the pizza from the oven and sprinkle with the queso fresco and chopped red pepper. Cut into wedges and serve at once.
SERVES 6 TO 12
When cooking chicken wings, there is no better cooking technique than slow-roasting them. During the long cooking, the marinade caramelizes into a deep mahogany glaze. It’s difficult to stop eating these sticky, sweet, and spicy wings. Very versatile, they are great hot out of the oven, at room temperature, or gently reheated in a 300°F oven for 20 minutes. If you are unable to find jalapeño jam, substitute any jam or jelly (try raspberry, apple, currant, or mango), and stir in 3 minced jalapeño chiles.
1 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 cup red or green jalapeño jam
1 cup spicy taco sauce
½ cup thin soy sauce
½ cup freshly squeezed lime juice
2 jalapeño chiles, minced including seeds
6 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems
24 chicken wings
In a bowl, combine the salt, pepper, cumin, jam, taco sauce, soy, lime juice, chiles, garlic, and cilantro. Makes 3 cups. In a bowl large enough to hold the wings, combine the wings and jam mixture. Cover and marinate the wings in the refrigerator for 1 to 24 hours (the longer they marinate, the better they will taste).
To cook the wings, preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a shallow baking pan with aluminum foil. Coat a wire rack with nonstick cooking spray and place the rack in the baking pan. Drain the chicken and reserve the marinade. Arrange the wings on the rack, smooth skin side down. Roast for 30 minutes. Drain the accumulated liquid from the pan. Baste the wings with the reserved marinade, turn them over, and baste again. Roast 15 minutes. Baste only the top surface. Roast another 15 minutes (1 hour total roasting time). Cut the wings in half through the joint. Serve hot or at room temperature.
SERVES 4 TO 8
The key to this recipe is to cut the salmon into thick enough pieces so that when you run each skewer through each salmon piece, only the bamboo tip and the handle are visible. In other words, err on the side of thicker versus thinner pieces. No guest is going to say, “Oh, the salmon’s too thick!” If you want to avoid the last-minute cooking tribulations, grill the salmon skewers shortly before the dinner guests arrive. The satay tastes just as delicious at room temperature. In place of the salmon, substitute boneless, skinless chicken thighs or beef tenderloin.
1 pound center-cut salmon fillet, skin and pinbones removed
2 cloves garlic, minced
¼ cup lightly packed light brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
16 bamboo skewers, 6 inches long
One of the Zigzag Sauces
Cut the salmon into ⅓-inch-thick pieces, each 1 to 2 inches long. Combine the garlic, brown sugar, cumin, salt, and black pepper in a small bowl. Rub this on both sides of each piece of salmon. Rub the salmon all over with the olive oil. Then slide a bamboo skewer through each piece lengthwise, stopping when the bamboo tip is barely visible. This can be done 1 day in advance of cooking and kept refrigerated in an airtight container.
Prepare a medium-hot fire in a gas or charcoal grill.
To cook the salmon, brush the cooking grate with vegetable oil. Place a double layer of aluminum foil along the front of the cooking grate. Add the skewers so the salmon is directly over the heat but the foil is under the exposed bamboo skewers. Grill the salmon, turning several times, for about 4 minutes total. Depending on the size of the grill, you may need to do the cooking in 2 batches. Transfer to a platter.
Put the Zigzag Sauce into a resealable plastic bag and cut off the corner. Gently squeeze the bag, making a zigzag pattern across the salmon skewers. Serve hot or at room temperature.
SERVES 8 TO 12
What would a Chinese chef marooned in Mexico City create? Here is the answer! This recipe gives rise to many variations. Try substituting raw salmon fillet or ground meat such as ground lamb, pork, or veal for the shrimp. However, ground chicken and turkey are not good choices here, as their low fat content results in an unpleasantly dry texture.
¾ pound raw shrimp, peeled and minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
2 whole green onions, minced
1 tablespoon oyster sauce
30 to 36 (3½-inch) very thin wonton wrappers
Cornstarch, for dusting
½ cup low-sodium chicken broth
¼ cup heavy cream
1 vine-ripened tomato, minced
2 tablespoons chipotle chiles in adobo sauce, minced
1 tablespoon oyster sauce, or ½ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems, or basil leaves
2 tablespoons flavorless cooking oil
Combine the shrimp, ginger, green onions, and oyster sauce in a bowl. Mix well using your fingers. Trim the wonton wrappers into circles, if necessary. Fold the dumplings. Place about 2 teaspoons shrimp filling in the center of each wonton skin. Draw the wonton skin up around the sides of the filling. Gently squeeze the waist of the dumpling with your thumb and forefinger while you flatten the top and bottom of the dumpling using your other hand. Each dumpling should look like a column with a flat bottom. You should have enough filling for 30 to 36 dumplings. Place the finished dumplings on parchment paper that is lightly dusted with cornstarch. The dumplings can be refrigerated uncovered (no plastic wrapping used) for up to 12 hours in advance.
To make the cream sauce, combine the chicken broth, cream, tomato, chipotle chiles, oyster sauce, and cilantro in a bowl. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
To cook the dumplings, place a 12-inch nonstick sauté pan over high heat. Add the cooking oil and immediately add the dumplings, flat side down. Fry the dumplings until the bottoms become dark golden, about 2 minutes. Pour in the cream sauce. Immediately cover the pan, decrease the heat to medium-high, and cook the dumplings until they become firm to the touch, about 30 seconds. Remove the lid and shake the pan so that the dumplings “capsize” and are glazed on all sides with the sauce. Tip out onto a heated serving platter and serve at once.
SERVES 8
Empanadas are half-moon-shaped pastries stuffed with meat or seafood. They are common not only in Mexico but also throughout Latin America. This recipe is made easier by replacing the pastry dough with wonton wrappers. The result is a light, crisp “fusion” empanada that is sensational as an appetizer.
PORK FILLING
½ pound ground pork
2 whole green onions, minced
¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems
1 tablespoon Mexican Chile Sauce or Chinese chile sauce
2 cloves garlic, minced
½ beaten egg
½ teaspoon salt
Cornstarch, for dusting
20 to 24 (3½-inch) round wonton wrappers
3 tablespoons flavorless cooking oil
Zigzag Sauce of your choice, for serving here
To make the pork filling, combine the ground pork, green onions, cilantro, chile sauce, garlic, egg, and salt in a medium bowl. Using your hands, mix the ingredients until evenly blended. This can be made 24 hours in advance and kept refrigerated in an airtight container.
To wrap the empanadas, first prepare a small bowl of water. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and dust it with cornstarch. Place a round wonton wrapper on a flat surface. Add about 1 tablespoon of the pork filling, forming it lengthwise. Dip your fingers into the water and then gently moisten the wonton around the filling. Fold the wrapper over the filling, and pinch the outside edges to seal into a half-moon shape. Place the empanadas on the baking sheet. This can be done 12 hours in advance; refrigerate the empanadas. Prepare the Zigzag Sauce. Place in a resealable plastic bag and cut one corner off the bag.
To cook the empanadas, place a 12-inch nonstick sauté pan over high heat. Add the cooking oil. Add the empanadas (they should all fit in the pan). Cook until brown on the bottom side, then turn over each empanada (use 2 spoons to do this) and brown on the other side. Add ¼ cup water. Cover the sauté pan tightly. Cook for about 20 seconds. Remove the lid— the empanada skins should be transparent, and they are cooked when the filling feels firm when prodded with a finger. Boil away the remaining water. Slide the empanadas onto a serving platter.
Squeeze the Zigzag Sauce in a random zigzag pattern over the empanadas. Serve at once.
SERVES 8
This is a very easy hot appetizer that has a wonderful blend of flavors. The meatballs can be formed a day in advance, placed on a shallow baking pan, and refrigerated. Then once the dinner guests assemble, crowding into the kitchen to see what you have been up to, the meatballs are popped into a hot oven for 3 to 4 minutes. Topped with a little guacamole and a zigzag of crema, they will disappear within moments. You can use ground beef, veal, or lamb, but we prefer lamb because of its rich taste. If you use ground beef, buy beef that is at least 20 percent fat, which provides more flavor.
½ pound ground beef, ground veal, or ground lamb
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon Mexican hot sauce (such as Cholula)
1 whole green onion, minced
1 clove garlic, finely minced
1 serrano chile, minced, including the seeds
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano, preferably Mexican (or cilantro or mint)
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup unseasoned bread crumbs
About ½ cup Guacamole
¼ cup crema
In a bowl, combine the beef with the egg, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, green onion, garlic, chile, oregano, ginger, pepper, cumin, and salt. Using your hands, mix well.
Place the bread crumbs on a plate. Lightly oil your hands with flavorless cooking oil or olive oil. Then form the meat into compact little meatballs, making 16. Coat on all sides with the bread crumbs. Transfer the meatballs to the baking pan. This can be done 24 hours in advance; refrigerate the meatballs in an airtight container.
Line a 9 by 13-inch pan with aluminum foil. Add the meatballs.
To cook the meatballs, preheat the oven to 400°F. When the oven has been preheated, turn the oven setting to broil. Place the baking pan in the oven 4 inches below the broiler. Cook the meatballs for 3 to 4 minutes; they should be lightly browned and feel slightly soft when prodded with a finger.
Transfer the meatballs to a serving plate. Add about a teaspoon of the guacamole on top of each meatball. Drizzle the meatballs with the crema and serve at once.
