Sevilla and Huelva Provinces
Leaving behind the magnetic allure of glorious Seville, the rest of Sevilla Province and neighbouring Huelva Province are among the least visited areas of Andalucía. Consequently, much of the zone has remained a rural hinterland, where time moves slowly and the old customs prevail. Some of the finest nature preserves are here, too, including the ecologically essential Coto de Doñana, mountainous reaches and pristine beaches, generally frequented by Spaniards rather than tourists. Culturally rich as well, each town and village shelters surprising art treasures and ancient marvels, where you may find yourself the only visitor – a welcome relief after the throngs encountered elsewhere in Andalucía.
1. Parque Nacional Coto de Donana
Europe’s largest nature reserve includes important wetlands and shifting dunes that are gradually moving inland. The fragile ecosystem can only be visited on guided tours (for further details see Parque Nacional del Coto Doñana).
2. El Rocio
The fact that this town resembles an Old West frontier outpost is no accident. The Spaniards who settled what are now the states of Texas, New Mexico and Arizona mostly came from this part of Spain and took their architectural style with them. Horseback is still a normal way to get around here. The place bursts into life during the annual Romería, one of Spain’s largest festivals (for further details see El Rocío’s Romería).
3. Huelva City
Founded by the Phoenicians, Huelva was at its peak under the Romans – the Museo Provincial holds remarkable archaeological finds. The city’s other claim to fame is as the starting point of Columbus’s epic voyage (for further details see Discovery of America). Huelva was the first port for New World trade, until Seville took over.
Museo Provincial • Alameda Sundheim 13 • 959 65 04 24 • Open Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun; mid-Sep–May: 10am–8:30pm Tue–Sat; 10am–5pm Sun • Adm (free to EU members)
4. El Parque Minero de Rio Tinto
The Río Tinto (Red River) Mines, the world’s oldest, have been exploited as a source of mineral wealth for some 5,000 years, and the gradual stripping away of the rich ore has left a weird moonscape shot through with coloured fissures. A museum details the mines’ history.
www.parquemineroderiotinto.com
Museo Minero • Plaza Ernest Lluch • 959 59 00 25 • Open 10:30am–3pm, 4–7pm daily • Adm
5. Gruta de las Maravillas
A guided tour of these marvellous caves – Spain’s largest – will wind through beautiful chambers with naturally coloured formations and names such as the Hut, Organ, Cathedral, Quail and Twins. The last room is a notorious crowd-pleaser – the Sala de los Culos (Chamber of the Buttocks). In addition to 12 caverns, there are also six underground lakes, which create stunning visual effects. The “Great Lake” lies under a 70 m (230 ft) high vaulted ceiling.Pozo de la Nieve, Aracena • 663 93 78 76 • Open 10am–1:30pm, 3–6pm daily • Adm
6. Cazalla de la Sierra
The main town in the Sierra Norte is a steep cluster of white-washed houses. It’s a popular place for weekend getaways by sevillanos and particularly known for producing some of the area’s famous anise-based tipples. Just 3 km (2 miles) outside of town is
a former Carthusian monastery, restored as part hotel, part arts centre with gallery.La Cartuja de Cazalla arts centre • 954 88 45 16 • Open daily • Adm
7. Ecija
Two nicknames for this town east of Seville give an idea of its chief glory and its biggest challenge. “The Town of Towers” refers to its 11 Baroque belltowers, all adorned with glazed tiles. “The Frying-Pan of Andalucía” is a reference to its searing summer temperatures, due to the fact that it’s one of the few towns not built up a hill. Écija’s archaeological museum is worth a visit.Museo Histórico Municipal • Palacio de Benemejí, C/Cánovas del Castillo 4 • 955 90 29 19 • Open 10am–1:30pm & 4:30–6:30pm Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm & 5.30–8pm Sat, 10am–3pm Sun (Jun–Sep: 10am–2:30pm Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm & 8–10pm Sat, 10am–3pm Sun)
• Free
8. Osuna
The enormously powerful Dukes of Osuna get the credit for endowing this town with exceptional architecture. The massive bulk of the Renaissance church, the Colegiata de la Asunción, dominates the scene; inside, there’s an impressive painting of the Crucifixion by José de Ribera. The Universidad, also Renaissance, has tiled towers at its corners and a beautiful central courtyard. Elsewhere, fine mansions evoke the wealth of Spain’s most powerful families (for further details see Palacio del Marqués de la Gomera, Osuna).Colegiata • Plaza de la Encarnación • 954 81 04 44 • Open May–Sep: 10am–1:30pm, 4–7pm Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr: 10am–1:30pm, 3:30–6:30pm Tue–Sun • Adm
9. Carmona
The closest major town east of Seville has been continuously inhabited for more than 5,000 years. Its Roman remains are truly exceptional, especially the huge necropolis. The view from the originally Roman Puerta de Córdoba (Córdoba Gate) out over the sweeping plains also shouldn’t be missed. Fine churches, palaces and alcázares adorn the site – one of the
ancient castles is now a spectacular parador.Necrópolis • Avda Jorge Bonsor 9 • 954 14 08 11 • Open 9am–6pm Tue–Fri, 9:30am–2:30pm Sat & Sun; Closed public hols • Free
10. Italica
These wind-blown ruins were once the third largest city in the Roman empire, founded in 206 BC and home to some half a million people during the reign of Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century. He was following in the glorious footsteps of his predecessor Trajan, who was another Itálica native. There’s a huge amphitheatre to explore, as well as some fine mosaics amid the crumbling walls. Most of the wonders are still buried, however, while others have long since been quarried for their stone or moved to the Archaeological Museum in Seville (for further details see Museo Arqueológico).Avda de Extremadura 2, Santiponce • 955 12 38 47 • www.juntadeandalucia.es/cultura/museos • Open Apr–May: 9am–8pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun; Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun; mid-Sep–Mar: 9am–6:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun • Adm (free for EU members)
La Campiña: Socialism versus Feudalism
The fertile Campiña valley has been in the hands of a few noble families since the Catholic Monarchs handed out huge tracts as fiefdoms. The people who worked the land were little more than serfs, a situation that still accounts for local poverty. In the village of Marinaleda, however, its mayor has created an island of social idealism, and has succeeded in wresting plots of property away from the landlords to be communally owned by the workers.
A Day in Columbus’s Footsteps
Morning
Head to the Monasterio de Santa María de la Rábida, 9 km (5.5 miles) from Huelva City, where a despondent Columbus found spiritual solace and practical help from the prior. The latter eventually persuaded Queen Isabel to sponsor the voyage that would discover America. The monks provide a tour 10am–1pm, 4–7pm Tue–Sun (winter: to 6:15pm) • Adm showing visitors where Columbus stayed. It’s also a pleasant place for refreshment or a meal in the shaded café.
Below the monastery, on the waterfront, la Muelle de las Carabelas sports life size replicas of the three boats that made the trip.
Afternoon
Some 4 km (2.5 miles) northeast of La Rábida is the port, Palos de la Frontera, from which Columbus set sail. The Iglesia de San Jorge is where the crew heard mass before departing. Behind the church is La Fontanilla, the well that supplied them with water for the journey.
A further 7 km (4 miles) northeast is Moguer. At the Convento de Santa Clara, Columbus gave thanks after his first voyage for having survived a storm in the Azores • Tours 10:30am, 11:30am, 12:30pm & 4:30pm, 5:30pm, 6:30pm Tue–Sat, 10:30am, 11:30pm, 12:30pm Sun • Adm.
At the end relax over a meal at La Parrala • Plaza de las Monjas 22 Moguer • 959 37 04 52 • Closed Mon • €20–€30 
Google Map.
Cafes and Tapas Bars
1. Bar Plaza, Carmona
In the heart of town, with an outdoor terrace, this is a great little place for tapas. Themontaditos (“little sandwiches”) are well worth a try. One of the specialities is the typical local dishespinacas con garbanzos, spinach with chickpeas.C/El Salvador, 1 • 954 19 00 67
2. Bar La Reja, Ecija
This local favourite offers a wide choice of tapas and raciones and the leisurely atmosphere invites sitting around and eavesdropping on local gossip.C/Garcilópez 1 • 954 83 30 12 • Closed Sun & Mon
3. Casa Curro, Osuna
A few blocks from the main square, this is a premier tapas bar. It’s diminutive, but worth seeking out for the quality.Plazuela Salitre 5 • 955 82 07 58
4. El Martinete, Cazalla
This minuscule bar is on a camp site, so along with your reasonably priced tapas there are woods and waterfalls to enjoy.Ctra Estación de Cazalla km12; • 955 88 65 33 (information) • Closed Mon
5. La Puerta Ancha, Ayamonte
A sociable place that purports to be the original town bar. There are tables on the square and good prices, too, for their line of drinks, tapas and other snacks.Plaza de la Laguna 14 • 959 32 06 66
6. Espuma del Mar, Isla Canela
This beachside establishment has al fresco tables so you can people-watch while sampling tasty tapas. The speciality is, of course, fresh fish and seafood. Try raya (skate) in one of its various manifestations.Paseo de los Gavilanes • 959 47 71 98
7. El Refugio, Mazagon
A laid-back, popular haunt in this surfer’s paradise. Located a short stroll from the beach, El Refugio is renowned for its fresh fish dishes.Avda Santa Clara 43 • 610 74 53 31 • Closed Mon–Thu (Oct–May)
8. Meson La Reja, Aracena
This tapas bar specializes in regional food including wild mushrooms, local cheeses and escargots.Carretera N-433
9. Cafe Bar Manzano, Aracena
On the south side of the town square this traditional bar is a classic Sierra place for coffee and a pastry.Plaza del Marqués de Aracena 22 • 959 12 81 23 • Closed Tue, last week Sep
10. Hosteria La Rabida
Next to an old monastery just east of Huelva where Columbus found spiritual retreat. You can have a drink or snack, or enjoy a full meal.Paraje de la Rábida • 959 350035 • Closed Mon and Jan
Restaurants
1. Restaurante San Fernando, Carmona
Carmona’s classiest choice occupies an old mansion and overlooks the eponymous plaza. Expect fine service and a well thought out menu that features a range of local game, lamb, duck and fresh fish. Great desserts.C/Sacramento 3 • 954 14 35 56 • Closed Sun D, Mon • €30–€40
2. Restaurante Montecruz, Aracena
Local, organic produce is the key here, with game, Iberian ham, chestnuts and wild mushrooms when in season. Exceptional food in both the restaurant and tapas bar.Plaza de San Pedro • 959 12 60 13 • Closed Mon • €20–€30
3. Meson Rey Arturo, Osuna
The medieval decor in this “The inn of King Arthur” does not disappoint. Feast on succulent grilled meats and modern interpretations of regional classics.C/Sor Angela 3 • 662 13 22 21 • Closed Mon D, Tue, Wed • No credit cards • €20–€30
4. Cambio de Tercio, Constantina
This place is popular with devotees of rural cookery. Specialities include solomillo de cerdo ibérico en salsa de setas (Iberian pork loin in wild mushroom sauce) and for dessert tarta de castañas (chestnut tart).C/Virgen del Robledo 53 bajo, Constantina • 955 88 10 80 • Closed Tue, last week Sep • under €20
5. Restaurante Miramar, Punta Umbria
Fresh fish from the Atlantic is paired with rice dishes.C/Miramar 1 • 959 31 12 43 • €20–€30
6. Restaurante Azabache, Huelva City
This traditional eatery is popular with locals and is known for its raciones, or large servings of tapas.C/Vázquez López 22 • 959 25 75 28 • Closed Sat D, Sun • €30–€40
7. Casa Luciano, Ayamonte
The place for tempting seafood and fish stews. Try the mouthwatering atún al horno (baked tuna).C/Palma del Condado 1 • 959 47 10 71 • Closed Sun and during the Romería • €40–€50
8. Aires de Donana, El Rocio
French windows provide panoramic views of the marshes here. The suckling kid in aubergine sauce is a treat.Avda La Canaliega, 1 • 959 44 22 89 • Closed Mon, 20 days in July • €20–€30
9. Posada de Cortegana, Cortegana
A wide variety of meat, such as Iberian pork, venison and game is on offer at this lovely grillhouse.Ctra El Repilado – La Corte • 959 50 33 17 • €20–€30
10. Casa El Padrino, Alajar
This rustic favourite is known for its tasty regional cuisine.Plaza Miguel Moya 2 • 959 12 56 01 • under €20
