Beef
Beef Tenderloin with Horseradish Mashed Potatoes
Filet Mignon with Peppercorn Cream
Herb-Crusted Steaks with Lemon-Garlic Potatoes
Pan-Seared Steaks with Cherry Tomato Sauce
Skillet Goulash
Strip Steak with Ginger Butter Sauce
Steak Teriyaki
Roasted Pepper and Boursin Steak Quesadillas
Beef and Vegetable Fajitas
Flank Steak with Quick Chipotle Aïoli
Firehouse Smothered Steak
Steak Tips with Mushrooms and Blue Cheese
Skillet Barbecue Steak Tips
London Broil with Steakhouse Beans
Roasted Barbecue Short Ribs
Quick Beef Empanadas
Cajun Stuffed Peppers
Skillet Shepherd’s Pie
Cheesy Southwestern Meatloaf
Skillet Tamale Pie
Beef Tenderloin with Horseradish Mashed Potatoes
Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: This beef tenderloin dinner is an ideal special occasion meal because it feels fancy but doesn’t require a lot of kitchen time. A quick sour-cream-and-chive horseradish sauce pulls double duty in this recipe by enriching the mashed potatoes as well as serving as a tableside sauce for the steaks. Draining the horseradish of its vinegary brine ensures a more intense horseradish flavor without the sour notes.

1 cup sour cream

6 tablespoons drained prepared horseradish

¼ cup finely chopped fresh chives

Salt and pepper

2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces

4 center-cut tenderloin steaks (6 to 8 ounces each), about 1 inch thick

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1. Combine sour cream, horseradish, chives, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl.

2. Bring potatoes and enough water to cover by 1 inch to boil in pot. Reduce to simmer and cook until potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and return to pot. Add butter and half of sour cream mixture and mash until smooth. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and keep warm.

3. Meanwhile, pat steaks dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook steaks until well browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer steaks to plate, tent with foil, and let rest 5 minutes. Serve steaks with potatoes, passing remaining sour cream mixture at table.

SMART SHOPPING HORSERADISH

Bottled prepared horseradish, which is made with grated horseradish root and vinegar, can taste strikingly different depending on where it is displayed in the store. Shelf-stable products are full of additives and have a far weaker flavor than those found on the refrigerator aisle. We definitely prefer the refrigerated variety, and after a test kitchen tasting, highest marks were given to those with fine (versus coarse) texture and sinus-clearing heat. Our favorite was Boar’s Head Pure Horseradish. Make sure that you don’t buy a creamy horseradish sauce.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Filet mignon is an incredibly tender cut of beef, but its notably mild flavor typically requires an extra boost. Here, coarsely ground pepper forms a spicy crust that gives these steaks the character they need, and we further complement them with a white wine and tarragon cream sauce. Don’t try this technique with extra-thick pieces of filet—the pepper crust will burn before the interior has properly cooked. To ensure even cooking, choose center-cut tenderloin steaks of a consistent size and shape and avoid pieces from the tapered end of the tenderloin.

4 center-cut tenderloin steaks (about 6 ounces each), about 1 inch thick

Salt

4 teaspoons coarsely ground pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 shallot, minced

¾ cup dry white wine

½ cup low-sodium chicken broth

½ cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon chopped fresh tarragon

1. Pat steaks dry with paper towels and season with salt. Rub top and bottom of steaks evenly with 3 teaspoons pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook steaks until well browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to serving platter and tent with foil.

2. Add remaining oil and shallot to empty skillet and cook over medium heat until softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in wine, broth, and cream and simmer, scraping up any browned bits, until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Off heat, whisk in tarragon, remaining pepper, and any accumulated steak juices. Season with salt. Pour sauce over steaks. Serve.

SMART SHOPPING BLACK PEPPER

In recipes calling for ground pepper, we greatly prefer grinding our own to the preground variety, which has a faded aroma and flavor. All peppercorns are not the same, but when a recipe calls for a small dose any freshly ground pepper will be fine. But if you’re cooking a peppery specialty, or if you like to grind fresh pepper over your food before eating, choosing a superior peppercorn can make a difference. We tested several varieties, and tasters gave top marks to highly aromatic peppercorns with complex flavor, and they preferred moderate rather than an overpowering, strong heat. Our favorite was Kalustyan’s Indian Tellicherry Black Peppercorns (left), which is sold by a Manhattan emporium online, but a close second was supermarket brand Morton & Bassett Organic Whole Black Peppercorns (right).

Herb-Crusted Steaks with Lemon-Garlic Potatoes

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: A light brushing with Dijon and a sprinkling of fresh herbs take ordinary pan-seared steaks to the next level with minimal extra work. Meanwhile, the potatoes achieve the crispy browned exterior and fluffy texture of roasted potatoes in one-third the time because we give them a jump start in the microwave while the steaks are searing, then finish them in the skillet while the steaks are resting. If time allows, wait until the last moment to chop the herbs so they maintain their intense flavor.

4 center-cut tenderloin steaks (about 6 ounces each), about 1 inch thick

Salt and pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil

pounds red potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1-inch chunks

2 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons lemon juice

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

½ cup mixed finely chopped fresh herbs such as tarragon, basil, cilantro, and parsley

1. Pat steaks dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook steaks until well browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer steaks to platter and tent with foil.

2. Meanwhile, toss potatoes, additional 1 tablespoon oil, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Microwave, covered, until tender, 4 to 7 minutes.

3. Heat remaining oil in empty skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add potatoes and cook until browned, about 6 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Off heat, stir in lemon juice and season with salt and pepper.

4. Brush tops of steaks with mustard and sprinkle with herbs. Serve with potatoes.

QUICK PREP TIP REVIVING TIRED HERBS

We rarely use an entire bunch of herbs at once, and inevitably a few days later they are looking less-than-fresh and we have to throw them out and start all over. Is there a way to revive tired herbs? With a little research, we found that soaking herbs in water restores the pressure of the cell contents against the cell wall, causing them to become firmer as the dehydrated cells plump up. So, after purposely letting several bunches of parsley, cilantro, and mint sit in the refrigerator until they became limp, sorry-looking versions of their former selves, we tried bringing the herbs back to life by soaking them in tepid and cold water. We found that soaking herbs (stems trimmed) for 10 minutes in cold water perks them up better than tepid water. These herbs had a fresher look and an improved texture.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Sautéing cherry tomatoes until they are just soft brings out their sweetness, and the addition of a little lemon zest and juice creates a bright, chunky sauce perfect for pairing with a flavorful, rich strip steak. A large skillet set on medium-high heat allows the tomatoes to cook quickly without falling apart, and sprinkling sugar over the tomatoes helps them caramelize, balancing their acidity. Depending on the sweetness of your tomatoes, you may want to reduce or omit the sugar.

3 strip steaks (10 to 12 ounces each), about 1 inch thick

Salt and pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 pints cherry tomatoes, halved

2 teaspoons sugar

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

3 garlic cloves, minced

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley

2 teaspoons grated zest and 1 tablespoon juice from 1 lemon

1. Pat steaks dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook steaks until well browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to cutting board and tent with foil.

2. Cook tomatoes, sugar, and pepper flakes in empty skillet, scraping up any browned bits, until tomatoes are just softened, about 2 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Off heat, stir in parsley, lemon zest, lemon juice, and remaining oil. Season with salt and pepper. Slice steaks and top with tomato mixture. Serve.

SIMPLE SIDE POTATOES WITH LEMON, PARSLEY, AND OLIVE OIL

Cover 2 pounds scrubbed small red or new potatoes with cold water in Dutch oven. Add 1 tablespoon salt, bring to boil, cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until potatoes are just tender, 8 to 18 minutes (depending on potatoes’ size). Drain potatoes, cut in half, and toss with 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, grated zest from 1 lemon, and 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Serves 4.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Our skillet version of this well-known Hungarian stew makes quick work of a dish that traditionally requires a long cooking time, both to tenderize the meat and to deepen the flavors. Cooking the paprika and tomato paste intensifies the flavors of both and adds depth to the sauce. Rather than using a cheap cut of meat, we sauté two strip steaks, which are naturally tender and don’t require a long simmer. We also cook the egg noodles and sauce together in the skillet, minimizing the number of pans. Make sure to use sweet paprika, not the hot or smoked varieties.

2 strip steaks (10 to 12 ounces each), about 1 inch thick

Salt and pepper

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 onion, halved and sliced thin

1 red bell pepper, seeded (see this page) and chopped fine

¼ cup paprika

1 tablespoon tomato paste

4 cups low-sodium beef broth

6 ounces wide egg noodles (about 4 cups)

cup sour cream

1. Pat steaks dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook steaks until well browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to plate and tent with foil.

2. Heat remaining oil in empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Cook onion and bell pepper until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in paprika and tomato paste and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in broth and noodles and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until noodles are tender, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat, cover, and keep warm.

3. Cut steaks in half lengthwise, then cut into thin slices. Off heat, stir sour cream and sliced steak, along with any accumulated juices, into skillet with noodles. Season with salt and pepper. Serve.

SMART SHOPPING EGG NOODLES

Classic egg noodles are thick, wide ribbons of pasta with a fat content that’s slightly higher than that of other kinds of pasta because of their high percentage of eggs. Their firm, sturdy texture is what makes them so appealing in casseroles or stews, and, in dishes like stroganoff and goulash, the egg noodles can make or break the meal. We tasted several brands, and our favorite is Pennsylvania Dutch Wide Egg Noodles (also sold as Mueller’s), which tasters praised for its gentle egg flavor and firm yet tender texture with nice, subtle chew.

Strip Steak with Ginger Butter Sauce

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Ginger, soy sauce, and Chinese five-spice powder (a warm, pungent mixture of cinnamon, cloves, fennel seed, star anise, and Sichuan peppercorns that you can find in the grocery spice aisle) give this recipe an Asian feel, while finishing the sauce of ginger and soy sauce with butter—a technique unusual in Asian cooking—mellows the bite and gives the sauce a satiny finish. Soy sauce adds all the salt that’s needed, so season the steak with only the five-spice powder and pepper.

3 strip steaks (10 to 12 ounces each), about 1 inch thick

1 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder

Pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger

½ cup water

4 teaspoons soy sauce

1. Pat steaks dry with paper towels and season with five-spice powder and pepper. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook steaks until well browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to cutting board and tent with foil.

2. Melt butter in empty skillet. Add ginger and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in water and soy sauce, scraping up any browned bits. Simmer until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Slice steaks and drizzle with butter mixture. Serve.

QUICK PREP TIP GRATING GINGER

Although we love the floral pungency of fresh ginger, its fibrous texture can be distracting when coarsely grated or minced. What’s the best way to avoid ginger’s stringy texture? Although fancy kitchen stores sometimes carry porcelain “ginger graters” designed specifically for the job (at about $15 a pop), we prefer to use our trusty—and versatile—rasp-style grater. Its fine blades pulverize the ginger, releasing all of its flavorful juices without any stringy segments. Simply peel a small section of a large piece of ginger, then grate the peeled portion, using the rest of the ginger as a handle. Be sure to work with a large nub of ginger—and watch your knuckles.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Sure, using a bottled teriyaki sauce will get dinner on the table quickly, but those premade concoctions are always cloyingly sweet and marred by artificial flavors—certainly not worth the time saved. Instead, we take just a few minutes to make our own sauce, with plenty of garlic, ginger, pepper flakes, and vinegar to balance the sugar and soy sauce. Simmering the sauce in the skillet used to sear the steaks thickens it in just a couple of minutes. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and serve with rice, if desired.

½ cup soy sauce

½ cup sugar

2 tablespoons cider vinegar

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger (see this page)

2 teaspoons cornstarch

teaspoon red pepper flakes

3 strip steaks (10 to 12 ounces each), about 1 inch thick

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

2 scallions, sliced thin

1. Whisk soy sauce, sugar, vinegar, garlic, ginger, cornstarch, and pepper flakes in bowl.

2. Pat steaks dry with paper towels. Heat oil in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add steaks and cook until well browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to plate and tent with foil.

3. Wipe out skillet and add soy sauce mixture. Simmer over medium heat until sauce is thickened, about 2 minutes. Slice steak thin against grain and transfer to platter. Pour sauce over steak and sprinkle with scallions. Serve.

SIMPLE SIDE SESAME SNAP PEAS

Heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add 1 pound trimmed sugar snap peas and cook until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Add ¼ cup water and ¼ teaspoon salt, cover, and cook until peas are bright green and beginning to soften, about 2 minutes. Uncover and allow water to evaporate. Clear center of skillet and add 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 2 teaspoons sugar, 1 teaspoon rice vinegar, 1 teaspoon more oil, and 1 minced garlic clove. Cook, mashing mixture into pan, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir into peas. Toss with 2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds and ⅛ teaspoon sesame oil. Season with salt and pepper. Serves 4.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: We wanted a quesadilla that put a new spin on the usual steak, Mexican cheese blend, green pepper, and onion combination, and we also wanted a quesadilla that would cook in a skillet without all the filling leaking out from between the two tortillas. Here you’ll find an unusual, flavorful filling that we spread over half a single tortilla and then fold over to make a half-moon-shaped quesadilla that won’t leak. We prefer Garlic and Fine Herbs Boursin cheese for this recipe.

2 strip steaks (10 to 12 ounces each), about 1 inch thick

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 (5.2-ounce) package Boursin cheese, crumbled

cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese

4 (12-inch) flour tortillas

½ cup jarred roasted red peppers, drained and sliced thin

4 scallions, sliced thin

1. Pat steaks dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook steaks until well browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to plate and let rest 5 minutes, then slice thin against grain. Wipe out skillet.

2. While steaks rest, combine Boursin, cheddar, ½ teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper in bowl. Spread one-quarter of cheese mixture evenly over half of one tortilla, leaving ½-inch border around edge. Top with peppers, scallions, and sliced steak. Fold tortilla over filling and press down firmly. Repeat with remaining filling and tortillas.

3. Add 2 quesadillas to empty skillet and cook over medium-high heat until golden and crisp, 1 to 2 minutes. Flip quesadillas and cook until golden brown and cheese is melted, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to cutting board and repeat with remaining quesadillas. Cut into wedges and serve.

SMART SHOPPING BOURSIN

Boursin is a soft, spreadable cheese that comes in several varieties that are available in every supermarket. It is a versatile cheese that works well as a sandwich spread (try it with roast beef), as a stuffing for chicken breasts, as a spread for steaks, in mashed potatoes, on crackers, in dips, or as part of a cheese plate.

Beef and Vegetable Fajitas

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: A lot of beef fajita recipes call for marinating the steak for at least 30 minutes before cooking, but we have found that you get more flavor (and save time) by simply drizzling the cooked steak with lime juice and letting the meat rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Serve with shredded cheese, and guacamole or sour cream.

1 flank steak (about 1½ pounds)

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 tablespoons lime juice from 2 limes

1 red onion, halved and sliced thin

1 red bell pepper, seeded (see this page) and sliced thin

teaspoons chili powder

1 cup frozen corn, thawed

8 (6-inch) flour tortillas, warmed (see this page)

½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

1. Pat steak dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook steak until well browned, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to plate and drizzle with 2 tablespoons lime juice. Tent with foil and let rest 10 minutes.

2. Heat remaining oil in empty skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, bell pepper, and chili powder and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in corn and remaining lime juice and cook until heated through, about 1 minute. Transfer to serving platter.

3. Slice steak thin on bias and against grain. Transfer to platter with vegetable mixture. Serve with tortillas, passing cilantro at table.

SMART SHOPPING FLOUR TORTILLAS

Typically made with just five ingredients—flour, water, fat, salt, and (often) baking powder—homemade tortillas have a pliancy and clean flavor that manufacturers have yet to duplicate. But tortillas are big business in the United States (second only to traditional white sandwich bread in sales), and manufacturers are working to improve their products. We gathered four nationally available products and put them to the test, tasting them plain and with fajitas. Old El Paso 6-Inch Flour Tortillas, the thinnest we tasted, won us over with their soft and pliable texture and rich flavor.

T-Bone Steak

The T-shaped bone in this classic grilling steak separates the flavorful strip (or shell) and the buttery tenderloin. The tenderloin is small and will cook more quickly than the strip, so it should be positioned over a cooler side of the fire. Grill.

TENDERNESS: ★ ★ ★

FLAVOR: ★ ★ ★ ★

Porterhouse Steak

This steak is a huge T-bone with a larger tenderloin section. It is cut farther back on the animal than the T-bone. Like the T-bone, it has well-balanced flavor and texture. Most porterhouse steaks can serve two. Grill.

TENDERNESS: ★ ★ ★

FLAVOR: ★ ★ ★ ★

Strip Steak

Available both boneless and bone-in, this moderately expensive steak is also called top loin, shell, sirloin strip, Kansas City strip, and New York strip. Cut from the middle of the steer’s back, strip steaks are well-marbled, with a tight grain, pleasantly chewy texture, and big beefy flavor. Grill, pan-sear, or broil.

TENDERNESS: ★ ★ ★

FLAVOR: ★ ★ ★ ★

Skirt Steak

This long, thin steak is cut from the underside of the animal. Also known as fajita or Philadelphia steak, it has a distinct grain and an especially beefy taste. Sliced skirt is a good option for fajitas, but it can also be cooked as a whole steak. Grill, pan-sear, or slice thin and stir-fry.

TENDERNESS: ★ ★

FLAVOR: ★ ★ ★

Top Sirloin Steak

Cut from the hip, this steak (along with its bone-in version, round-bone steak) is sometimes called New York sirloin, shell sirloin, or sirloin butt. It is a large, inexpensive steak with decent tenderness and flavor; do not confuse it with the superior strip steak. Slice thin against the grain after cooking. Grill or pan-sear.

TENDERNESS: ★ ★

FLAVOR: ★ ★

Flap Meat Sirloin Steak Tip

Cut from the area just before the hip, this large steak is most often sold in strips or cubes. Though not particularly tender, flap meat has a distinct grain and a robust beefiness. We suggest buying the whole steak and cutting it yourself. Slice thin against the grain after cooking. Grill, pan-roast, or pan-sear.

TENDERNESS: ★ ★

FLAVOR: ★ ★ ★

Flank Steak

Flank steak, aka jiffy steak, is a large, flat cut from the underside of the cow, with a distinct longitudinal grain. Flank steak is thin and cooks quickly. Although very flavorful, flank steak is slightly chewy. It should not be cooked past medium and should always be sliced thin across the grain. Grill, pan-sear, or slice thin and stir-fry.

TENDERNESS: ★ ★

FLAVOR: ★ ★ ★

Top Blade Steak

A small shoulder cut, top blade (or blade) steak is very tender and richly flavored, with a line of gristle that runs through the center. Remove the gristle and slice the meat thin (see this page) for stir-fries, or cut into cubes for kebabs or stews.

TENDERNESS: ★ ★ ★

FLAVOR: ★ ★ ★

Shoulder Steak

Sometimes labeled London broil or chuck steak, this larger boneless steak is a great value. It is relatively lean with a moderately beefy flavor. It can be a bit tough; slice it thin on the bias after cooking. Grill or pan-roast.

TENDERNESS: ★ ★

FLAVOR: ★ ★

Tenderloin Steak

Cut from the center of the back, buttery-smooth tenderloin is the most tender and most expensive cut on the cow, but it has little flavor. These steaks may be labeled (from thickest to thinnest) Châteaubriand, filet mignon, or tournedos. Grill, pan-sear, or broil.

TENDERNESS: ★ ★ ★ ★

FLAVOR: ★

Rib-Eye Steak

Cut from the rib area just behind the shoulder, a rib-eye steak (aka Spencer or Delmonico steak) is essentially a boneless slice of prime rib. This pricey, fat-streaked steak is tender and juicy, with a pronounced beefiness. Grill, pan-sear, or broil.

TENDERNESS: ★ ★ ★

FLAVOR: ★ ★ ★ ★

We tested defrosting steaks on various surfaces to find the fastest method. After one hour, steaks left on wood and plastic cutting boards were still frozen solid, those on aluminum baking trays had thawed slightly more, and meat left on heavy skillets was almost completely thawed. Why? Metal contains a lot of moving atoms, allowing it to transfer ambient heat much more quickly. To thaw steaks, place them, wrapped, in a skillet in a single layer. Flip the steaks every half hour until thawed.

BONE-IN STEAKS

Bones add great flavor, but they prevent steaks from keeping direct contact with a pan. They are fine for grilling, but when pan-searing, stick with boneless cuts that will rest flush with the pan.

BIG STEAKS

Extra-thick steaks are hard to cook through in a skillet (save them for grilling). When pan-searing, buy steaks that are 1 to 1¼ inches thick.

Temping Steaks

The most accurate way to judge when meat is done is by using an instant-read thermometer. Hold the meat with tongs and push the thermometer through to the center. To make sure the thermometer is deeply embedded in the meat, take the temperature from the side. Avoid touching the bone with the thermometer, if applicable. Remove the steak from the heat when it registers 120 degrees for rare, 125 degrees for medium-rare, 135 to 140 degrees for medium, 145 degrees for medium-well, and 155 degrees for well-done. (The temperature of the steak will rise another 5 or so degrees as it rests.)

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Aïoli, a condiment based on a combination of mayonnaise and garlic, makes a great accompaniment to myriad dishes, from meat to fish to vegetables. In this recipe, a tangy, spicy aïoli made with simple pantry items is a creamy foil for the rich beefiness of quick-cooking flank steak. Chipotle chiles vary greatly in heat. Start with 1 teaspoon in the aïoli and increase the amount as desired.

1. Pat steak dry with paper towels and season with cumin, salt, and pepper. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook steak until well browned, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to cutting board and tent with foil.

2. Whisk mayonnaise, lime juice, garlic, and chipotle in bowl. Slice steak thin against grain. Serve, passing aïoli at table.

QUICK PREP TIP SLICING FLANK STEAK

With its pronounced longitudinal grain, flank steak can be tough and chewy if sliced the wrong way. Make sure to cut the meat into thin slices on the bias, across the grain. This cuts through the connective tissue in the meat and makes it more tender.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Topping a quick-cooking flank steak with a mushroom sauce enriched with meaty Worcestershire sauce and tomato paste, and spiked with red pepper flakes, gives you a flavorful dinner in minutes. Cutting the mushrooms, bell peppers, and onions into smaller pieces and sweating them in a covered skillet with salt helps to draw out their juices, which forms a sauce for the steak. Slicing the flank steak thin against the grain shortens the muscle fibers, ensuring tender meat.

1 flank steak (about 1½ pounds)

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

10 ounces white mushrooms, quartered

1 red bell pepper, seeded (see this page) and sliced thin

1 onion, halved and sliced thin

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1. Pat steak dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook steak until well browned, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer to cutting board and tent with foil.

2. Heat remaining oil in empty skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add mushrooms, bell pepper, onion, pepper flakes, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Cover and cook until vegetables have softened and released their juices, about 3 minutes. Stir in tomato paste and cook until beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in Worcestershire, butter, and any accumulated juices.

3. Slice beef thin on bias and against grain. Transfer to platter and smother with vegetable mixture. Serve.

QUICK PREP TIP NO-TEARS ONION SLICING

When an onion is cut, the cells that are damaged in the process release sulfuric compounds as well as various enzymes that mix to form a new compound that evaporates in the air and irritates the eyes, causing us to cry. Of all the suggested ways to lessen this teary effect, we’ve found the best options are to protect the eyes by covering them with goggles or contact lenses, or to introduce a flame (from a candle or gas burner) near the cut onions. The flame changes the activity of the compound that causes the tearing, while contact lenses and goggles simply form a physical barrier that the compound cannot penetrate. So if you want to keep tears at bay when handling onions, light a candle or gas burner or put on some ski goggles.

Steak Tips with Mushrooms and Blue Cheese

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: We love combining beef with meaty mushrooms and salty blue cheese, so we make a portobello mushroom sauce for our steak tips and whisk in half of the blue cheese at the end to add richness and ensure that each bite is packed with blue cheese flavor. Steak tips, also known as flap meat, are sold as whole steaks, cubes, and strips; we prefer to buy whole steaks and cut them ourselves.

pounds steak tips, cut into 2-inch pieces

Salt and pepper

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

4 portobello mushroom caps, halved and sliced thin

2 shallots, halved and sliced thin

½ cup low-sodium chicken broth

½ cup heavy cream

½ cup crumbled blue cheese

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives

1. Pat steak tips dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add steak tips and cook until browned all over and cooked to desired doneness, 6 to 10 minutes. Transfer to platter and tent with foil.

2. Add remaining oil, mushrooms, and ½ teaspoon salt to empty skillet. Cover and cook over medium heat until softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add shallots and cook until softened, about 1 minute. Stir in broth, cream, and any accumulated beef juices and simmer, scraping up any browned bits, until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Off heat, whisk in ¼ cup cheese. Pour sauce over meat and sprinkle with remaining cheese and chives. Serve.

SIMPLE SIDE SAUTÉED CHERRY TOMATOES

Heat 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until almost smoking. Add 4 cups cherry tomatoes, halved, and sprinkle with 2 teaspoons sugar. Cook 1 minute, tossing frequently. Stir in 1 minced garlic clove and cook until fragrant, about 15 seconds. Add 2 tablespoons minced fresh basil and season with salt and pepper. Serves 4.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Store-bought barbecue sauce can be one-dimensional, so we doctor it up with ketchup, vinegar, and sugar for a more well-rounded flavor, and cooking it in the same skillet where we browned the meat allows it to pick up extra flavor. Steak tips (also known as flap meat) may be sold as whole steaks, cubes, or strips. We prefer to buy whole steaks and cut them ourselves. Once cut into pieces, they take less than 10 minutes to cook through.

pounds steak tips, cut into 2-inch pieces

2 tablespoons paprika

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 onion, quartered and sliced thin

¼ cup barbecue sauce

3 tablespoons ketchup

3 tablespoons cider vinegar

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1. Pat steak tips dry with paper towels and sprinkle evenly with 1 teaspoon paprika, cayenne, 1 teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook steak tips until browned all over and cooked to desired doneness, 6 to 10 minutes. Transfer to platter and tent with foil.

2. Add remaining oil, onion, and remaining paprika to empty skillet and cook over medium heat until onion is softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in barbecue sauce, ketchup, vinegar, and sugar and cook until thickened, about 3 minutes. Add steak tips and any accumulated juices to pan and toss to coat. Serve.

SIMPLE SIDE SKILLET GREEN BEANS

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in large skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add 1 minced shallot and cook until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Stir in ½ teaspoon minced fresh thyme and ¾ cup low-sodium chicken broth. Add 1 pound trimmed green beans, cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer until beans are tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Serves 4.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: London broil, a large boneless shoulder steak, is an economical and surprisingly flavorful cut. Because of its size, one London broil can conveniently feed four people. We let the steak stand on its own in this recipe, simply seasoned and cooked through on the stovetop. The steak is a great match for smoky-sweet beans. Deglazing the skillet ensures that all the flavorful bits, or fond, left behind from cooking the steak are incorporated into the beans. Flank steak can be used in place of the London broil if desired. For the best flavor and texture, do not cook the steak past medium (135 degrees) and be sure to slice the meat thin against the grain.

1 London broil (about 1½ pounds)

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 (16-ounce) cans pinto beans, drained and rinsed

1 cup low-sodium chicken broth

¼ cup barbecue sauce

3 tablespoons A.1. steak sauce

2 tablespoons molasses

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1. Pat steak dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook meat until well browned, 5 to 7 minutes per side. Transfer to cutting board and tent with foil.

2. Add beans, broth, barbecue sauce, A.1. steak sauce, molasses, and mustard to empty skillet, scraping up any browned bits. Bring bean mixture to boil, then reduce heat to medium and simmer until mixture is thickened, about 10 minutes. Slice steak thin against grain. Serve with beans.

SMART SHOPPING MOLASSES

Thick, sticky-sweet molasses is a by-product of the sugar-refining process—it is the liquid that is drawn off after the cane juice has been boiled and undergone crystallization. Once the sugar crystals are removed, the remaining liquid is packaged and sold as mild (or light) molasses, or it is boiled again and marketed as robust or full-flavored molasses. If the molasses is reduced a third time, it is labeled blackstrap. With each boil, the molasses becomes darker, more concentrated in flavor, and more bitter. There’s no question that each type has a very distinctive flavor, but after we ran them through a test kitchen tasting to determine the “best,” it turned out that personal preference carried the day. However, in general, most tasters preferred the milder varieties and that’s what we recommend for cooking.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: We are big fans of ribs of any type, and we particularly love short ribs because they have marbled meat, which guarantees a lot of flavor. While beef short ribs are often braised (which takes hours), we also enjoy them cooked medium-rare to medium, as we do here, and it only takes about 25 minutes. We pair the ribs with a simple barbecue sauce doctored with a kick of hot sauce and cider vinegar. Make sure to start with a good barbecue sauce since there aren’t a lot of additional ingredients; Bull’s Eye Original is our favorite. We also prefer to use a balanced hot sauce like Frank’s RedHot here; avoid hotter sauces like Tabasco.

1 cup barbecue sauce

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

2 teaspoons hot sauce

4 large beef short ribs (3 to 4 pounds total)

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Whisk barbecue sauce, vinegar, and hot sauce in bowl.

2. Pat ribs dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook ribs, turning occasionally, until well browned all over, 6 to 8 minutes.

3. Transfer ribs, bone-side down, to rimmed baking sheet and brush with half of barbecue sauce mixture. Roast ribs until lightly charred and meat is cooked to desired doneness, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve with remaining barbecue sauce mixture.

SMART SHOPPING BEEF SHORT RIBS

Short ribs are just that: fatty ribs (cut from any location along the length of the cow’s ribs) that are shorter than the more common, larger beef ribs. Short ribs come in two styles: “English,” which contain a single rib bone, and “flanken,” which have several smaller bones. After cooking both, we found the two options to be equally tender and flavorful. However, the flanken-style ribs are more expensive, and you typically have to buy them from a butcher. We always opt for the cheaper and more readily available English-style ribs.

ENGLISH

FLANKEN

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Empanadas are essentially the savory Latin-American version of a turnover. Traditional recipes often instruct the cook to stuff a corn, flour, or even yucca pastry crust with a ground or shredded meat filling, but we created perfectly acceptable beef empanadas with a fraction of the work by using a premade refrigerated pie crust from the supermarket. We cut both dough rounds that come in a box in half to make four empanadas. The assembled empanadas can be refrigerated for 12 hours prior to baking.

1 pound 85 percent lean ground beef

1 onion, chopped fine

2 tablespoons tomato paste

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese

¼ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro

Salt and pepper

1 (15-ounce) box Pillsbury Just Unroll! Pie Crust

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Cook beef and onion in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until beef is no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Add tomato paste, garlic, and cumin and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Off heat, stir in cheese and cilantro. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Cut each dough round in half. Arrange one-quarter of filling on one side of each dough half, leaving ½-inch border around edges. Brush edges of dough with water, fold over filling, and crimp edges to seal. Transfer to prepared baking sheet. Using fork, pierce dough at 2-inch intervals so steam can escape. Bake until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve.

EASY EMPANADAS

Cut the dough rounds in half and place one-quarter of the filling on one side of each half, leaving a ½-inch border around the edges. Brush the edges with water, then fold the dough over the filling and crimp the edges to seal. Transfer the empanadas to the lined baking sheet, and pierce the dough at 2-inch intervals.

Cajun Stuffed Peppers

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Our full-length stuffed peppers recipe calls for parcooking the peppers on the stovetop in boiling water, followed by the rice, then making the filling, stuffing the peppers, and finally cooking them through in the oven for 30 minutes. We simplify the process by starting the peppers in the microwave while we cook the filling in a skillet, and we use precooked rice. Mixing some of the cheese into the filling ensures that it holds together well and gives these peppers even more cheesy appeal. The stuffed peppers require only a few minutes under the broiler before they are done. Ground turkey or chicken can be substituted for the beef.

4 red bell peppers, halved (stem left intact), cored, and seeded

4 teaspoons olive oil

8 ounces 85 percent lean ground beef

4 ounces andouille sausage, chopped fine

1 onion, chopped fine

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 (8.8-ounce) package Uncle Ben’s Original Long Grain Ready Rice

1 tablespoon hot sauce

2 cups shredded Monterey Jack cheese

Salt and pepper

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position, place rimmed baking sheet on rack, and heat broiler. Microwave peppers until just tender, 3 to 6 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, heat 1 teaspoon oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add beef, sausage, and onion and cook until beef is no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in rice and hot sauce and cook until heated through, about 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in 1 cup cheese and season with salt and pepper.

3. Pat peppers dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Carefully brush preheated baking sheet with remaining oil. Place peppers, cut side down, on baking sheet and broil until spotty brown, about 3 minutes. Flip peppers and fill with beef mixture. Top with remaining cheese. Broil until cheese is spotty brown, about 5 minutes. Serve.

SMART SHOPPING UNCLE BEN’S READY RICE

Various types of instant white rice have been around for years to help time-crunched home cooks avoid the process of cooking rice, or the need to have leftover rice handy for making recipes such as this one. In addition to boil-in-bag rice and instant rice, there is also fully cooked rice. This convenience product is coated with oil to keep the grains distinct and is packaged in microwavable pouches. While we don’t love Uncle Ben’s Ready Rice plain as a side dish, if time is tight we have found that it works as an acceptable substitute for home-cooked rice when used in combination with other ingredients.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: We speed this comfort-food classic up by making it in a skillet with a quick run under the broiler at the end. Frozen hash browns stand in for the mashed potato crust, and microwaving them with melted butter boosts their flavor and cuts cooking time even more.

8 cups frozen shredded hash brown potatoes

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Salt and pepper

pounds 85 percent lean ground beef

1 onion, chopped fine

¼ cup all-purpose flour

teaspoons minced fresh thyme

2 cups low-sodium beef broth

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

2 cups frozen peas and carrots, thawed

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat broiler. Toss potatoes with 2 tablespoons melted butter, 1 teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl. Microwave, covered, until tender, 7 to 10 minutes.

2. While potatoes are microwaving, cook beef and onion in large ovensafe skillet over medium-high heat until beef is no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Drain beef mixture in colander.

3. Return beef mixture to skillet. Stir in flour and thyme and cook until incorporated, about 1 minute. Stir in broth and Worcestershire and cook until thickened, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in peas and carrots and simmer until heated through, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Scatter cooked potatoes over beef mixture and brush with remaining butter. Broil until potatoes are golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve.

EASY SHEPHERD’S PIE

To give the hash brown topping a jump start, microwave the potatoes with butter, salt, and pepper. Meanwhile, cook the beef in a large skillet, then drain the fat and make the filling. After sprinkling the cooked potatoes over the prepared filling, brush the topping with butter and finish the pie under the broiler.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: The traditional meatloaf weighs in at over 2 pounds and requires more than an hour to cook through, so it’s rare (if not impossible) to find the time to get a meatloaf on the table for a weeknight dinner. To get a quick-cooking size, we make four single-serving loaves, which we brown in a skillet and then transfer to the oven in the same pan to finish cooking through. Cilantro, chipotle chiles, pepper Jack cheese, and a salsa-based topping put a flavorful Southwestern spin on this version, and corn tortillas serve as the binder instead of bread or crackers. Avoid using extra-chunky salsa. You will need an ovensafe nonstick skillet for this recipe.

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Combine salsa and sugar in saucepan and cook over medium-high heat until thickened, about 5 minutes.

2. Process tortillas in food processor until coarsely ground; transfer to large bowl. Add beef, cilantro, scallions, eggs, chipotle, ¾ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper and mix until combined. Form mixture into four 4 by 3-inch oval loaves.

3. Heat oil in large ovensafe nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook loaves until well browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Spoon 1 tablespoon salsa mixture over each loaf and transfer skillet to oven. Bake until salsa mixture is bubbling, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle loaves with cheese and continue to bake until cheese is melted and meat registers 160 degrees, about 5 minutes longer. Serve, passing remaining salsa mixture at table.

SIMPLE SIDE EASY MASHED POTATOES

Cover 2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks, with water in saucepan and bring to boil. Reduce heat to simmer and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain potatoes, wipe pan dry, return potatoes to pot, and mash with potato masher. Fold in 8 tablespoons melted unsalted butter, then fold in ¾ cup hot half-and-half, adding more as needed. Season with salt and pepper. Serves 4.

Skillet Tamale Pie

Serves 4 to 6

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: An ideal tamale pie contains a juicy, spicy mixture of meat and vegetables beneath a cornmeal crust, but often these pies turn out dry, bland, and out of balance. The addition of shredded cheese to this cornbread topping boosts flavor and texture; as the cheese melts, it binds the cornbread, producing a more cohesive, genuine tamale-like topping. If you can’t find Ro-Tel tomatoes, substitute 2½ cups of canned diced tomatoes and add an additional teaspoon of minced chipotle chiles in adobo.

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Combine cornbread, 1½ cups cheese, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper in bowl.

2. Heat oil in large ovensafe skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Cook onion and chipotle until softened, about 5 minutes. Add beef and cook until no longer pink, about 5 minutes. Stir in beans, tomatoes, and reserved tomato juice and cook until thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons cilantro and remaining cheese. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Arrange cornbread mixture evenly over filling. Bake until cornbread is golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining cilantro. Serve.