Pizza & Sandwiches
Fast and Crispy Olive-Caper Pizzas
Greek Pita Pizzas
Shrimp and Artichoke Lavash Pizza
Barbecue Chicken Pizza
Three-Meat Calzone
Mediterranean Tuna Melt
Croque Monsieur
Oven-Grilled Reuben Sandwiches
Muffuletta Panini
Portobello Panini
Middle Eastern Pita Sandwiches
Spicy Chicken Subs
Crispy Chicken Salad Wraps
Toasted Turkey and Smoked Mozzarella Subs
Barbecue Chicken Sandwiches with Slaw
Tex-Mex Cheeseburgers
Mushroom, Onion, and Pepper Cheesesteaks
Fast and Crispy Olive-Caper Pizzas
Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: For an extra-crisp pizza that’s a snap to make, we use store-bought dough, roll it into two thin rounds, and parcook each one in a skillet before topping and baking. Baking the pizzas on a preheated baking sheet makes for an even crisper crust. You can make this recipe even easier to prepare by substituting your favorite jarred pizza sauce for homemade.

1 (14.5-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes, drained, liquid reserved

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, minced

teaspoon salt

1 (1-pound) ball ready-made pizza dough

cups shredded mozzarella cheese

½ cup pitted kalamata olives (see this page), halved

2 tablespoons drained capers

¼ cup fresh basil leaves, sliced thin

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position, place rimmed baking sheet on rack, and heat oven to 500 degrees. Pulse tomatoes, 1 tablespoon oil, garlic, and salt in food processor until coarsely ground. Transfer to measuring cup and add reserved tomato juice until sauce measures 1 cup.

2. Divide dough into 2 equal pieces. On lightly floured counter, roll each round into 11-inch circle. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Add 1 dough round to skillet and cook until golden brown and crisp, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Transfer to wire rack and repeat with remaining oil and dough.

3. Spread sauce evenly over each dough round, then top each with cheese, olives, and capers. Transfer one pizza to preheated baking sheet and bake until cheese is golden and bubbly, about 6 minutes. Sprinkle with basil. Repeat with second pizza. Serve.

SMART SHOPPING READY-MADE PIZZA DOUGH

While pizza dough is nothing more than bread dough with oil added for softness and suppleness, we have found that minor changes can yield dramatically different results. We think homemade dough is worth the modest effort, but we have to admit that prepared dough can be a great time-saving option for a weeknight pizza made at home. Many supermarkets and pizzerias sell dough for just a few dollars a pound, and the dough can be easily frozen. We found that store-bought dough and refrigerated pop-up canisters of pizza dough (Pillsbury brand) all worked well and tasted fine, but we recommend buying dough from a pizzeria, where it is more likely to be fresh. Supermarket pizza dough is frequently unlabeled, so there’s no way to know how long the dough has been sitting in the refrigerated case, or how much dough is in the bag.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: These simple personal pizzas, which rely on pita rounds for the crusts, make a quick and delicious weeknight meal. Topping the pizzas with hummus in lieu of tomato sauce, along with feta, onion, and kalamata olives, gives them a Greek-inspired flavor, while lightly dressed arugula added just before serving makes them appealingly fresh. Packaged hummus is available in many flavor varieties; we tried several for this recipe and prefer the red pepper variety.

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 475 degrees. Brush 2 tablespoons oil over both sides of pita breads. Transfer to baking sheet and bake until golden, about 5 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, combine remaining oil and vinegar in bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Toss onion, olives, and 2 tablespoons vinaigrette together in separate bowl.

3. Spread 2 tablespoons hummus on each toasted pita round. Sprinkle cheeses evenly over hummus, then top with onion-olive mixture. Bake until onions soften and cheese is melted, 6 to 8 minutes. Just before serving, toss arugula with remaining vinaigrette. Arrange arugula on top of pita pizzas. Serve.

EASY PITA PIZZA

Brush both sides of the pita rounds with olive oil and bake in a 475-degree oven about 5 minutes. Prepare the vinaigrette and toss the onion and olives with 2 tablespoons of dressing. Spread 2 tablespoons of hummus on each toasted pita, sprinkle with the feta and Italian cheese blend, and top with the onion-olive mixture. Bake the pizzas for 6 to 8 minutes and top with the arugula dressed in the remaining vinaigrette.

Shrimp and Artichoke Lavash Pizza

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Using lavash, a Middle Eastern flatbread, rather than traditional pizza dough gives this crust a crisp, cracker-like texture, while a combination of shrimp, artichoke hearts, garlic, and mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses makes it a simple but sophisticated dinner. Because lavash can vary greatly in size, you may need to trim the bread. Serve with a green salad.

pounds medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

1 (9-ounce) box frozen artichoke hearts, thawed, squeezed dry, and chopped

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 garlic cloves, minced

Salt and pepper

2 (11 by 8-inch) pieces lavash bread

2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese

¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Pat shrimp dry with paper towels. Combine shrimp, artichokes, 2 tablespoons oil, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl.

2. Brush remaining oil over both sides of lavash. Arrange lavash on rimmed baking sheet and bake until browned and crisp, about 5 minutes.

3. Scatter cheeses over lavash. Top with shrimp mixture and continue to bake until shrimp are cooked through and cheese is melted, 6 to 8 minutes. Cut into wedges. Serve.

SMART SHOPPING LAVASH

Also known as Armenian cracker bread, lavash is a flatbread made from flour, water, and salt. When fresh, lavash resembles a tortilla and can be used to make wrap sandwiches, but it will dry out quickly, at which point it becomes crisp and brittle. Lavash is available in Middle Eastern markets and most supermarkets.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Barbecue chicken pizza is an all-time favorite, and making it fresh at home is far superior to the frozen or delivery varieties. The combination of store-bought dough, a rotisserie chicken, and a very hot oven gets this satisfying dinner to the table quickly. Barbecue sauce adds the requisite tang, and a shredded Mexican cheese blend provides just the right flavor combination for pairing with the bite of the sauce and red onion. A drizzle of a cilantro-lime sour cream sauce before serving adds just the right richness.

1 rotisserie chicken, skin discarded, meat shredded into bite-sized pieces (about 3 cups)

½ cup barbecue sauce

¼ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro

½ red onion, sliced thin

5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

1 (1-pound) ball ready-made pizza dough

1 cup shredded Mexican cheese blend

½ cup sour cream

2 tablespoons lime juice

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 500 degrees. Combine chicken, barbecue sauce, and 2 tablespoons cilantro in bowl. Toss onion and 1 tablespoon oil in another bowl and season with salt and pepper.

2. Brush rimmed baking sheet with 2 tablespoons oil. On lightly floured counter, roll dough into 16 by 9-inch oval (about ¼ inch thick) and transfer to prepared baking sheet. Brush dough with remaining oil and bake until dough begins to brown and bubble, about 6 minutes.

3. Scatter chicken mixture over dough and top with onion mixture. Bake until onion begins to brown, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle cheese over pizza and bake until melted, about 5 minutes. Transfer to cutting board. Whisk sour cream, lime juice, and remaining cilantro in bowl, then drizzle over pizza as desired. Slice and serve, passing remaining sauce at table.

SMART SHOPPING PRESHREDDED MEXICAN CHEESE BLEND

The refrigerator section of our local supermarket practically overflows with varieties of preshredded cheese, but the flavorful combination known as “Mexican cheese blend” (a mix of three or four cheeses, often Monterey Jack, cheddar, queso quesadilla, and asadero) is both authentic and convenient. It’s a great choice for myriad dishes, including our Barbecue Chicken Pizza, where you are looking for a flavorful cheese combination but don’t want to spend time shredding multiple types of cheese yourself.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: These half-moon-shaped Italian-style turnovers are a fun alternative to a regular pizza. You often find personal-sized calzones, but here we make assembly easy by making one large one and cutting it into portions. Using presliced meats from the deli and store-bought pizza dough makes this family-friendly recipe a great weeknight option. Serve with your favorite tomato sauce for dipping, if desired.

6 ounces thinly sliced deli salami

2 ounces thinly sliced deli pepperoni

1 cup ricotta cheese

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

½ cup chopped fresh basil

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 (1-pound) ball pizza dough

4 ounces thinly sliced deli capicola

8 ounces thinly sliced deli mozzarella cheese

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Arrange salami and pepperoni on microwave-safe plate lined with paper towels. Cover with 2 more paper towels and microwave until fat begins to render, 1 minute. Combine ricotta, Parmesan, and basil in bowl.

2. Brush 1 tablespoon oil over rimmed baking sheet. On lightly floured counter, roll dough into 14-inch round about ¼ inch thick. Layer half of salami, pepperoni, capicola, and mozzarella on one-half of dough round, leaving 1-inch border around edges. Spoon ricotta mixture over mozzarella and layer with remaining salami, pepperoni, capicola, and mozzarella. Brush edges of dough with water, fold over filling, and crimp edges to seal.

3. Transfer to oiled baking sheet and cut four 1-inch slits into top of calzone. Brush with remaining oil and bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes. Transfer to wire rack and let cool for 5 minutes. Cut into 4 wedges. Serve.

EASY CALZONE

After rolling out the dough, layer half the meats and mozzarella on one-half of the round, leaving a 1-inch border around the edges. Spoon the ricotta mixture on top, then layer with the remaining meats and mozzarella. Brush the dough’s edges with water, fold the dough over the filling, and crimp the edges to seal.

Mediterranean Tuna Melt

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Tuna melts have been around for a long time as a quick lunch counter meal, so we gave them a fresh spin for our dinnertime recipe. Chopped artichokes, red onion, and lemon juice add bright flavors and freshness, while a crusty baguette in lieu of the typical white bread adds appealing texture. An equal amount of sliced deli mozzarella can be swapped for the provolone.

3 (6-ounce) cans tuna packed in water, drained and flaked

1 (9-ounce) box frozen artichoke hearts, thawed, drained, and chopped

½ small red onion, chopped fine

cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Salt and pepper

1 (24-inch) loaf French baguette, sliced partially open lengthwise

2 large ripe tomatoes, sliced thin

8 slices deli provolone cheese

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position (rack should be about 8 inches from broiler element). Heat broiler. Combine tuna, artichokes, onion, mayonnaise, and lemon juice in bowl. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Cut baguette crosswise into quarters. Arrange, sliced side up, on rimmed baking sheet and broil until golden, about 2 minutes. Spoon tuna mixture evenly into baguette pieces, then top with tomatoes and provolone. Return to oven and broil until cheese is golden brown, about 5 minutes.

SMART SHOPPING IS TUNA IN A POUCH BETTER THAN CANNED?

Does pouched tuna taste better or fresher than the canned options? A preliminary test kitchen tasting showed that tasters preferred solid white albacore tuna packed in water (the mildest variety of processed tuna) to chunk light tuna and albacore tuna packed in oil. Then we rounded up the top five national canned albacore tuna in water products and tasted them blind against three pouched water-packed albacore products. Tasters preferred the milder tunas, and, beyond that, they narrowed the pool by focusing on texture. The cans are about three times as wide as the pouches and therefore can hold larger pieces of tuna, which must be broken down to fit into a pouch. We found texture to be more variable than flavor, and meaty canned tuna was preferable to mushier pouched tuna. Our top pick is Wild Planet Wild Albacore Tuna.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: This easy-to-prepare sandwich makes quick work of the French bistro favorite. Traditionally, a croque monsieur is made by dipping a ham-and-cheese sandwich in beaten eggs and sautéing it in butter. We forgo the dip in beaten eggs to make a sandwich that is filling but won’t weigh you down, relying instead on a balanced combination of shredded cheese and a cheese sauce for indulgent appeal. And instead of cooking one or two sandwiches at a time in a skillet, we use a rimmed baking sheet and a hot oven to cook all four sandwiches simultaneously. We like to use Gruyère, but if you can’t find it, use deli Swiss cheese instead.

3 tablespoons butter, softened

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup whole milk

cups shredded Gruyère cheese

Salt and pepper

8 slices hearty white sandwich bread

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

6 ounces thinly sliced deli ham

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 475 degrees. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in flour and cook until golden, about 2 minutes. Slowly whisk in milk and simmer until slightly thickened, 3 to 5 minutes. Off heat, stir in ½ cup cheese, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Cover and keep warm.

2. Spread remaining butter over 4 slices of bread. Arrange, buttered side down, on rimmed baking sheet. Spread each slice with mustard, then divide ham, 1 cup cheese, and ½ cup sauce over mustard-topped slices and top with remaining bread. Top with remaining sauce and cheese. Bake until cheese is golden brown and bubbling, 8 to 10 minutes. Serve.

SMART SHOPPING SANDWICH BREAD

Picking a high-quality loaf is one of the keys to a great Croque Monsieur (and, really, to any sandwich). We gathered eight leading brands of white sandwich bread, in country styles with larger slices whenever possible, and held a blind tasting. Tasters sampled the bread plain, in grilled cheese sandwiches, and prepared as croutons seasoned only with olive oil and salt. They gave top marks to the hearty texture of Arnold Country Classics Country White (left) and Pepperidge Farm Farmhouse Hearty White (right), which has larger-than-usual slices and what tasters called “perfect structure” and “subtle sweetness.”

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Most homemade Reubens fall short of the genuine version of this deli classic, which combines tangy sauerkraut with corned beef and Swiss cheese on rye bread. Most homemade Reubens rely on prepared sauerkraut and unpalatably sweet Russian dressing. The secret to our recipe is a quick “sauerkraut” made by simmering bagged coleslaw with vinegar and sugar—it is far better than most store-bought sauerkrauts. And instead of a prepared Russian dressing, we use a simple, balanced blend of mayonnaise and Dijon mustard. “Oven-grilling” on a preheated baking sheet allows you to cook the sandwiches all at once (and without turning them) rather than cooking in batches on the stovetop.

cup cider vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

1 (16-ounce) bag coleslaw mix

Salt and pepper

¼ cup mayonnaise

¼ cup Dijon mustard

8 slices hearty rye bread

8 slices Swiss cheese

1 pound thinly sliced corned beef

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position, place baking sheet on rack, and heat oven to 450 degrees. Bring vinegar and sugar to boil in large skillet over medium heat. Stir to dissolve sugar, add coleslaw, cover, and cook, tossing occasionally, until coleslaw is tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove lid and simmer until liquid has evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Combine mayonnaise and mustard in bowl. Spread 1 tablespoon mayonnaise mixture on each bread slice. Layer 1 slice cheese, ½ cup coleslaw, ¼ pound corned beef, and 1 additional slice cheese on top of bread slice. Top with second slice of bread and compress sandwich with your hands. Repeat to make three more sandwiches. Brush tops and bottoms of sandwiches with butter.

3. Transfer sandwiches to preheated baking sheet. Bake until toasted, about 10 minutes. Serve.

SIMPLE SIDE BISTRO SLAW

Whisk ½ cup mayonnaise, ¼ cup cider vinegar, 1 tablespoon sugar, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper together in bowl until sugar has dissolved. Add 2 small fennel bulbs, sliced very thin crosswise, 2 apples cut into ¼-inch strips, and 2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon and toss well to combine. Season with salt and pepper. Serves 4 to 6.

Muffuletta Panini

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: We give the classic Louisiana hero-style muffuletta sandwich, made with salami, provolone, ham, and trademark olive spread, a new spin by turning it into a toasted panini. One minute in the microwave warms the interior of this huge sandwich (a single sandwich serves four) while the grill pan crisps the bread. To vary the texture and flavor of the olive relish, use a mix of black and green olives. A crusty round loaf of bread, sometimes called a “boule,” works best in this recipe. Use a large nonstick skillet if you don’t have a grill pan.

1 cup mixed olives, pitted (see this page) and chopped

¼ cup drained jarred roasted red peppers, chopped

¼ cup sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil, rinsed, patted dry, and chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1 garlic clove, minced

1 tablespoon lemon juice

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 (8- to 10-inch) round Italian or French bread

6 ounces thinly sliced deli mortadella

6 ounces thinly sliced deli provolone

6 ounces thinly sliced deli salami

1. Combine olives, peppers, tomatoes, parsley, garlic, lemon juice, and oil in bowl. Slice bread in half horizontally. Scoop out interior of bread, leaving ½-inch layer of bread on inside.

2. Spread half of olive mixture over bottom of bread. Top with mortadella, provolone, salami, and remaining olive mixture. Top with remaining bread.

3. Place sandwich on plate and microwave for 1 minute. Heat nonstick grill pan over medium heat for 1 minute. Place sandwich in pan and weight with Dutch oven. Cook sandwich until golden brown and cheese is melted, 4 to 6 minutes per side. Cut sandwich into wedges. Serve.

SIMPLE SIDE COOL AND CREAMY GREEN BEAN SALAD

Bring 2 quarts water and ½ cup white vinegar to boil. Add 1 pound trimmed green beans, 1½ teaspoons sugar, and 1½ teaspoons salt and cook until beans are just tender, about 3 minutes. Add ¼ small red onion, sliced thin, and cook until just softened, about 30 seconds. Drain vegetables, then transfer to bowl filled with ice water. Drain again and dry with paper towels. Whisk ¼ cup mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons plain whole-milk yogurt, 1½ teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, 1 small minced garlic clove, and 1 teaspoon white vinegar. Add beans and onion and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper. Serves 4.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Add fontina cheese, roasted red peppers, and an herbed mayonnaise to meaty portobellos and you are guaranteed an irresistible sandwich. To ensure the mushrooms are tender in the final sandwich, we precook them in the grill pan before assembling and toasting the sandwiches. A nonstick grill pan and a Dutch oven mimic the signature marks of a panini press, but a large nonstick skillet can be used in place of the grill pan. Don’t substitute sandwich bread for the crusty Italian loaf.

½ cup mayonnaise

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary

6 large portobello mushroom caps, halved

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt and pepper

8 slices crusty Italian bread

3 cups shredded fontina cheese

½ cup drained jarred roasted red peppers, sliced

1. Whisk mayonnaise, garlic, and rosemary together in bowl. In another bowl, toss mushrooms, oil, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper. Heat large nonstick grill pan over medium heat for 1 minute. Arrange mushrooms on pan, weight with Dutch oven, and cook until browned, about 6 minutes per side. Transfer to plate.

2. Spread mayonnaise mixture evenly on 1 side of each slice of bread. Layer half of cheese on mayonnaise side of 4 bread slices, then top with mushrooms, peppers, and remaining cheese. Arrange remaining bread, mayonnaise side down, over cheese.

3. Return grill pan to medium heat. Place 2 sandwiches in pan and weight with Dutch oven. Cook until golden brown and cheese is melted, 4 to 6 minutes per side. Transfer to wire rack and repeat with remaining sandwiches. Serve.

EASY PANINI

Toss the mushrooms in the oil, salt, and pepper and cook in the grill pan, weighted with a Dutch oven, until browned. Spread some of the mayonnaise mixture on each slice of bread, then top four pieces of bread with half the cheese, then mushrooms, peppers, remaining cheese, and another bread slice. Cook 2 sandwiches at a time in the grill pan, weighted with the Dutch oven, until golden brown.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: This sandwich echoes the flavors of its more labor-intensive cousin, the gyro, which is made by tucking minced lamb that has been slow-roasted on a spit into a pita with grilled onions, peppers, and a yogurt sauce. Our simpler version features ground meat patties in a pita round with a tangy yogurt sauce. To help keep the patties moist and tender, we grind the unused top portion of the pitas with lemon juice and seasonings and add the resulting paste to the ground meat. We prefer using Greek yogurt, which is thicker and creamier than regular yogurt, for making this sauce. Serve with tomato, lettuce, and feta cheese.

4 (8-inch) pita breads

½ onion, chopped

4 garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon dried oregano

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Salt and pepper

1 pound 85 percent lean ground beef or ground lamb

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

½ cup plain whole milk yogurt

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint

1. Cut top 2 inches from each pita bread round. Process pita scraps, onion, three-quarters of garlic, oregano, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in food processor to smooth paste. Transfer mixture to bowl, then add ground meat and mix until well combined. Divide mixture into 12 equal portions, then press into ½-inch-thick patties.

2. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook patties until well browned and cooked through, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to paper towel–lined plate and tent with foil.

3. Whisk yogurt, mint, remaining lemon juice, and remaining garlic in bowl and season with salt and pepper. Warm pitas in microwave for 30 seconds. Place 3 patties in each pita and top with sauce. Serve.

SMART SHOPPING GREEK YOGURT

Greek yogurt is thicker and creamier than American-style yogurt. Nearly all the whey (the watery liquid that separates from the solids) is strained out of Greek yogurt, giving it a rich, smooth texture that is slightly thicker than that of sour cream. Greek yogurt is fairly mild, with a slight tang. You can also make your own version of Greek yogurt at home. Simply strain full-fat plain yogurt in a fine-mesh strainer lined with several layers of cheesecloth (paper towels or coffee filters also work) and set over a bowl to catch the whey. Covered with plastic wrap, the strained yogurt will be about half its original volume after 24 hours in the refrigerator and have a thick, rich consistency closely resembling that of Greek yogurt.

Spicy Chicken Subs

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: For this satisfying sandwich, we top chicken cutlets, which we brown quickly in a skillet, with sautéed onion, red bell pepper, and provolone cheese, then run the sandwich under the broiler just until the cheese melts. Giardiniera (a spicy mix of pickled vegetables), red pepper flakes, and mayonnaise combine to make a creamy, tangy relish, and combining the onion and pepper with a little of the giardiniera brine further boosts the flavor.

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat broiler. Pulse giardiniera, mayonnaise, and pepper flakes in food processor until minced.

2. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook 3 cutlets until browned, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to cutting board and tent with foil. Repeat with additional 1 tablespoon oil and remaining cutlets.

3. Add onion, bell pepper, and remaining oil to empty skillet and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Off heat, stir in reserved giardiniera brine and season with salt and pepper.

4. Slice each cutlet on bias into 4 pieces. Place rolls on rimmed baking sheet and layer with giardiniera mixture, chicken, onion mixture, and cheese. Broil until cheese is melted, 1 to 2 minutes. Serve.

SMART SHOPPING GIARDINIERA

In Italy, giardiniera refers to pickled vegetables that are typically eaten as an antipasto. But here in the United States, it’s most recognized as a combination of pickled cauliflower, carrots, celery, and sweet and hot peppers that is served alongside sandwiches or other lunch fare. We’ve seen several brands available in the pickle aisle of our local supermarket, but on a recent trip to Chicago we were impressed by the city’s particular devotion to this spicy condiment. Figuring a local variety might exceed what we could find elsewhere, we tracked down three regional Chicago brands of jarred giardiniera (Scala’s Hot, Dell’Alpe, and Il Primo) and tasted them against five national brands. While tasters were impressed by the “spicy complexity” and “pleasant bitterness” of Scala’s Hot from Chicago, overall we wanted a larger variety of vegetables—the Chicago giardinieras are mostly peppers. We agreed: No need to travel to Chicago for the best—our favorite giardiniera was the national brand Pastene.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Ordinary chicken salad sandwiches are turned into restaurant-style wraps with a crispy, toasted exterior by heating chicken salad–stuffed tortillas in a skillet until crisp. The additions of sharp cheddar and a hit of hot sauce liven up our chicken salad. To prevent the wraps from unrolling as they cook, be sure to start them seam side down in step 3. Don’t try to make this recipe with tortillas that are smaller than 10 inches in diameter.

cup mayonnaise

cup chopped fresh cilantro

3 scallions, sliced thin

2 celery ribs, chopped fine

2 tablespoons sour cream

2 teaspoons hot sauce (see this page)

1 rotisserie chicken, skin discarded, meat shredded into bite-sized pieces (about 3 cups)

Salt and pepper

2 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese

4 (10-inch) flour tortillas

1. Whisk mayonnaise, cilantro, scallions, celery, sour cream, and hot sauce in bowl. Add chicken and toss to combine. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Sprinkle ½ cup cheese over each tortilla, leaving ½-inch border around edges, then arrange chicken salad in center of tortillas. Roll stuffed tortillas, spray all over with vegetable oil spray, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

3. Cook 2 wraps, seam side down, in large nonstick skillet over medium heat until golden brown and crisp, about 1 minute per side. Transfer to plate and repeat with remaining wraps. Serve.

EASY CHICKEN SALAD WRAPS

After preparing the chicken salad, sprinkle ½ cup cheese over each tortilla, leaving a ½-inch border around the edges, then place some of the chicken salad in the center of each tortilla. Roll the stuffed tortillas, spray all over with vegetable oil spray, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Heat a nonstick skillet over medium heat and cook 2 wraps, seam side down, until golden brown and crisp. Repeat with the remaining wraps.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: Store-bought pesto, a quick tomato sauce, and a subtle flavor boost from smoked mozzarella enliven deli turkey in these Italian dinner sandwiches. To keep the sandwiches from becoming soggy, make sure to drain the canned diced tomatoes and then cook them until the sauce is quite dry. Fresh mozzarella can be substituted for the smoked mozzarella, if desired.

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

6 garlic cloves, minced

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 (14.5-ounce) cans diced tomatoes, drained

cup basil pesto

Salt and pepper

4 (6-inch) sub rolls, slit partially open lengthwise

pounds thinly sliced deli turkey

12 ounces smoked mozzarella, sliced into thin rounds

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 500 degrees. Heat oil, garlic, and pepper flakes in large skillet over medium-high heat until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add tomatoes and cook until mixture is dry, about 10 minutes. Off heat, stir in 2 tablespoons pesto and season with salt and pepper to taste.

2. Spread remaining pesto inside each roll, then layer with turkey, tomato mixture, and cheese. Place sandwiches on baking sheet and bake until edges of bread are golden and cheese begins to melt, about 5 minutes. Serve.

SMART SHOPPING PREPEELED VS. FRESH GARLIC

Many supermarkets carry jars or deli containers of prepeeled garlic cloves, but how do they compare to fresh garlic bought by the head? We tasted both kinds of garlic in various recipes, both raw and cooked, and, in all cases, results were mixed. However, we did notice a difference in shelf life: A whole head of garlic stored in a cool, dry place will last for at least a few weeks, while prepeeled garlic in a jar (which must be kept refrigerated) lasts for only about two weeks before turning yellowish and developing an overly pungent aroma, even if kept unopened in its original packaging. (In fact, in several instances we found containers of garlic that had started to develop this odor and color on the supermarket shelf.) But if you go through a lot of garlic, prepeeled cloves can be an acceptable alternative. Just make sure they look firm and white and have a matte finish when you purchase them.

Barbecue Chicken Sandwiches with Slaw

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: We found we could make a great shredded barbecue chicken sandwich without lugging out the grill. For this stovetop recipe, we infuse both the chicken and sauce with flavor by searing the chicken in butter instead of oil for better depth and richness, and then we add the sauce to the skillet while the chicken cooks through. Topping the shredded chicken with a quick buttermilk slaw adds crunch and tang to these sandwiches. Serve with bread-and-butter pickles, extra hot sauce, and plenty of napkins.

1. Pat chicken dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Melt butter in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken and cook until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Stir in barbecue sauce, ½ cup vinegar, and hot sauce and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, until cooked through, about 10 minutes, flipping chicken halfway through. Transfer chicken to bowl and tent with foil. Continue to simmer sauce until thickened, about 3 minutes. Cover and keep warm.

2. Meanwhile, combine mayonnaise, buttermilk, and remaining vinegar in bowl. Stir in coleslaw mix and season with salt and pepper.

3. Shred chicken into bite-sized pieces. Return chicken to skillet with sauce and toss to combine. Serve on buns topped with coleslaw.

SMART SHOPPING HAMBURGER BUNS

To find the best hamburger buns, we tasted four top-selling products plain and with hamburgers. We found that tasters preferred buns with subtle flavor and at least a 3.5-inch diameter, which comfortably accommodated moderately sized patties. But the key component was texture. Though every product was tender, one product took the crown for being the fluffiest and moistest of the bunch. Its secret? While traditional hamburger buns use water to hydrate the dough, Martin’s Sandwich Potato Rolls replace the water with potato flakes, milk, and butter (essentially mashed potatoes). If you can’t find Martin’s, Pepperidge Farm White Hamburger Buns are a good backup choice.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: To start, we take standard ground beef up a notch by adding minced chipotle chiles and cumin before cooking our patties. Once these burgers have been pan-seared, red onion and poblano chile are cooked in the empty skillet to create a quick, mildly spicy topping, and a slice of pepper Jack cheese reinforces the poblano’s bite. Adding salt to the pan while the vegetables cook helps release moisture, which will dissolve the fond left in the pan from cooking the burgers. If you can’t find poblanos, you can substitute one green bell pepper.

pounds 85 percent lean ground beef

2 teaspoons minced canned chipotle chiles in adobo (see this page)

½ teaspoon ground cumin

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

4 thick slices deli pepper Jack cheese

1 small red onion, sliced thin

1 poblano chile, seeded and sliced thin

1 teaspoon chili powder

4 hamburger buns

1. Using hands, gently mix beef, chipotle, cumin, ½ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper in bowl until combined. Lightly pack mixture into four ¾-inch-thick patties.

2. Heat oil in large nonstick skillet over medium heat until shimmering. Add patties and cook to desired doneness, 3 to 6 minutes per side. Transfer burgers to plate, top with cheese, and tent with foil.

3. Add onion, poblano, ¼ teaspoon salt, and ¼ teaspoon pepper to empty skillet and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in chili powder and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Arrange burgers on buns and top with onion mixture. Serve.

SMART SHOPPING GROUND BEEF

A good burger starts at the supermarket. Be sure to read the label or listen to your butcher. In the test kitchen, we’re fans of burgers made with ground chuck, a shoulder cut with big, beefy flavor. By comparison, ground round and the generically labeled “ground beef” can be gristly and livery. And play the percentages—we typically buy 80 to 85 percent lean beef (unless we are mixing in other ingredients that will add fat), since meat that is any leaner will dry out when cooked.

Serves 4

inlineWHY THIS RECIPE WORKS: A Philadelphia-style cheesesteak is traditionally made with thinly shaved pieces of beef that are quickly cooked on a griddle. To make this sandwich at home, we skip the tedious step of shaving the meat and simply pan-sear strip steaks and then slice them thin. We top our sub rolls with the meat and cheese, then broil them for a few minutes until the cheese has melted. Adding vegetables, steak sauce, and oregano to the sliced meat before assembly makes this an even heartier and more flavor-packed meal. Line the baking sheet with foil for easy cleanup.

2 strip steaks (10 to 12 ounces each), about 1 inch thick

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, sliced thin

1 red bell pepper, seeded (see this page) and sliced thin

8 ounces white mushrooms, sliced thin

1 tablespoon steak sauce

½ teaspoon dried oregano

4 (6-inch) sub rolls, slit partially open lengthwise

6 ounces thinly sliced deli provolone cheese

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat broiler. Pat steaks dry with paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until just smoking. Cook steaks until well browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Transfer to plate and let rest 5 minutes, then slice thin against grain.

2. Meanwhile, add remaining oil, onion, bell pepper, mushrooms, and ½ teaspoon salt to empty skillet and cook until vegetables are softened and golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Off heat, stir in steak sauce, oregano, and sliced steak until well combined.

3. Divide steak mixture among rolls and top with cheese. Arrange sandwiches on rimmed baking sheet and broil until cheese is melted and rolls are golden brown around edges, 1 to 2 minutes. Serve.

QUICK PREP TIP MUSHROOMS: WASH OR BRUSH?

Culinary wisdom holds that raw mushrooms must never touch water, lest they soak up the liquid and become soggy. Many sources call for cleaning dirty mushrooms with a soft-bristled brush or a damp cloth. These fussy techniques may be worth the effort if you plan to eat the mushrooms raw, but we wondered whether mushrooms destined for the sauté pan could be simply rinsed and patted dry. To test this, we submerged 6 ounces of white mushrooms in a bowl of water for 5 minutes. We drained and weighed the mushrooms and found that they had soaked up only ¼ ounce (about 1½ teaspoons) of water, not nearly enough to affect their texture. So when we plan to cook mushrooms we won’t bother with the brush. Instead, we’ll place the mushrooms in a salad spinner, rinse the dirt and grit away with cold water, and spin to remove excess moisture.

SPRING VEGETABLE FRIED RICE