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St. George’s Caye and Other Cayes Near Belize City | Ambergris Caye and San Pedro | Caye Caulker | Southern Cayes | Southern Cayes Off Placencia and Southern Coast
St. George’s Caye and Other Cayes Near Belize City
9 miles (15 km) northeast of Belize City.
Just a stone’s throw from Belize City, St. George’s Caye is steeped in history. The country of Belize had its origins here, as St. George’s Caye held the original British settlement’s first capital. In 1798 the island was the site of a decisive battle with the Spanish. Islanders had only one sloop, while the Spanish had 31 ships. Their knowledge of the sea, however, helped them to defeat the invaders in two hours. Some affluent Belize City residents weekend in their private cottages here. Although St. George’s Caye has great places to dive, many serious scuba enthusiasts choose to head out to the more pristine atolls or to private cayes farther south.
Another option about 9 miles (15 km) from Belize City is Royal Palm Island Resort on Little Frenchman Caye. This caye is indeed little, but it offers modern air-conditioned accommodations in two-bedroom cottages.
Getting Here and Around
St. George’s Caye Resort and Royal Palm Island Resort will meet you at the international airport and handle your 20-minute boat transfer to the islands.
Where to Stay
Royal Palm Island Resort.
ALL-INCLUSIVE | An all-inclusive option for an island vacation near Belize City is Royal Palm Island, a resort 20 minutes by boat from the mainland on Little Frenchman Caye—and it is in fact French-owned. The tropically painted cottages, set fairly close together on this tiny island, have two bedrooms, kitchenettes, air-conditioning, and satellite TV. Prices include lodging, all meals (no French cuisine, though), and transfers from Belize City. Royal Palm Island also has a new sister resort on the mainland, Dream Valley, and packages are available that combine beach and inland stays. Pros: relaxing getaway near Belize City; friendly service. Cons: not directly on reef; tiny island; expensive. | Rooms from: BZ$1720 | Little Frenchman Caye, 9 miles (15 km) east of Belize City | 621/4949, 888/969–7829 from U.S. and Canada | www.royalpalmisland.com | 5 cottages | All-inclusive.
St. George’s Caye Resort.
ALL-INCLUSIVE | In colonial days St. George’s Caye was a British favorite because of its proximity to Belize City, about 20 minutes by boat; more recently wealthy Belize City families weekended on the island, and today visitors favor the resort for its casual style and private island atmosphere. Some of the thatch cottages are partly over the water (but on the lee side of the island, which doesn’t get the cooling breezes, so the beachfront cottages on the sea side are preferred). Electricity comes from the lodge’s own windmills. There’s air-conditioning, but you may be more comfortable with open windows to catch the sea breezes, at least in the beachfront cottages. The resort has a swimming pool and offers limited spa services. Dining is family-style, though if you prefer you can have s private dinner on the dock. Expect limited choices of entrées at dinner. Pros: comfortable, historical setting; secluded island resort atmosphere; attractive grounds; good diving available, though not included in rates. Cons: not easy to visit mainland or other islands for meals or entertainment; no TV, Wi-Fi only in lodge building. | Rooms from: BZ$780 | 220/4444, 800/813–8498 in the U.S. and Canada | www.belizeislandparadise.com | 12 cabanas, 8 rooms | All-inclusive.
Ambergris Caye and San Pedro
35 miles (56 km) northeast of Belize City.
At 25 miles (40 km) long and 4½ miles (7 km) wide at its widest point, Ambergris is the queen of the cayes. On early maps it was often referred to as Costa de Ambar, or the Amber Coast, a name supposedly derived from the blackish substance secreted by sperm whales—ambergris—that washes up on the beaches. Having never seen any ambergris in Belize, or a sperm whale, we’re not sure we buy this explanation.
Here the reef is just a few hundred yards from shore, making access to dive sites extremely easy: the journey by boat takes as little as 10 minutes. Because Ambergris Caye is by far Belize’s largest island and was the first to cater to those hoping to witness Belize’s undersea world, it’s generally superior in the number of dive shops, experience of dive masters, and range of equipment and facilities it offers. San Pedro has Belize’s only hyperbaric chamber and an on-site doctor to tend to divers with the bends. Many dive shops are attached to hotels, where the quality of dive masters, equipment, and facilities can vary considerably.
But there’s more than diving to Ambergris Caye. Today the majority of visitors to the island don’t dive at all. They snorkel, fish, splash in the sea, go sailboarding, or just laze around the hotel pool until it’s time to sample one of the dozens of restaurants on the island. With an island population of around 20,000, according to local observers who point to the many mainlanders who have come to the island to find work and to foreign expats who spent part of the year on the caye, or 11,510, according to the 2010 Belize Census, Ambergris and its only real town, San Pedro, remain friendly and prosperous. The caye has one of the country’s highest literacy rates and an admirable level of awareness about the reef’s fragility.
Getting Here and Around
Hard-packed sand streets are giving way to the concrete cobblestones of Barrier Reef Drive, Pescador Street, Coconut Drive and other island streets, and everyone complains about the worsening car traffic in town, but the most common forms of transportation remain golf cart, bike, and foot.
Timing
Belize’s most popular destination merits a significant chunk of your vacation time. Indeed, some visitors to Belize only experience Ambergris Caye. With its many restaurants, bars, and shops, plus myriad opportunities for water sports, you can easily spend a week or more on the island without beginning to run out of things to do.
Safety
With rapid growth and an influx of workers from other parts of Belize and Central America, Ambergris Caye has seen an increase in all types of crime. However, nearly all visitors to Ambergris Caye say they feel perfectly safe. Use common sense and avoid walking on dark streets and deserted beaches after nightfall. Most of the larger hotels have full-time security.
History
Because of their strategic locations on trade routes between the Yucatán in the north and Honduras in the south, the northern cayes, especially Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker, were long occupied by the Maya. Then, as now, the reef and its abundance of fish provided a valuable source of seafood.
The origin of Belize’s atolls remains a mystery, but evidence suggests they grew from the bottom up, as vast pagodas of coral accumulated over millions of years. The Maya were perhaps the first humans to discover the atolls, but by the time the first Spanish explorers arrived in 1508, the Mayan civilization had already mysteriously collapsed and few remained on the islands.
In the 17th century, English pirates used the cayes and atolls as a hideout, plotting their attacks on unwary ships. The most famous battle in Belize history happened on September 10, 1798, when a ragtag band of buccaneers defeated a Spanish armada at the Battle of St. George’s Caye.
The economy on the islands has ebbed and flowed, as pirates were replaced by wealthy plantation owners, who were eventually usurped by lobster fishermen. The first hotel on Ambergris Caye, Holiday Hotel, opened in 1965 and soon began attracting divers. Jacques Cousteau visited the Blue Hole in 1971 and helped introduce Belize to the world. Today tourism is by far the top industry on the cayes and atolls.
Water Activities
Charters
El Gato.
A 30-foot sailing catamaran, El Gato does day cruises to Caye Caulker, with two stops for snorkeling, for BZ$130 per person (minimum three persons). Also, half-day sails to Mexico Rocks or Hol Chan, BZ$100 per person (minimum three). A sunset cruise also is BZ$100, and a sail with a beach barbecue with fresh-caught fish and lobster is BZ$160. El Gato can take a maximum of 12 persons, and usually there are just a few on board, so it’s a less crowded experience than some of the other snorkel tours. The boat will pick you up at your resort. | San Pedro | 226/2264 | www.ambergriscaye.com/elgato.
Fishing
Although southern Belize, especially Placencia, is the main sportfishing center in Belize, Ambergris Caye also has good opportunities for flats, reef, and deep-sea fishing. Expect to pay about BZ$500–BZ$700 for one or two people for a day of flats fishing for bonefish, permit, or tarpon, including a guide and a boat. May to September is the best time for catching tarpon off Ambergris Caye; April to October is the best time for bonefish; and March through May is best for permit. Reef fishing for snapper, grouper, barracuda, and other reef fish runs BZ$600 or more a day, including a guide and a powerboat. Deep-sea fishing outside the reef for billfish, sailfish, wahoo, and tuna costs around BZ$1,200–BZ$1,500 a day, depending on the number in your party and the size of the boat. Although there’s still a lot of confusion about it, a sportfishing license (catch and release only) is now required for fishing in Belize waters, except for fishing off piers or from shore. Licenses for visitors are BZ$20 a day or BZ$50 a week. You can buy a license online from the Belize Coastal Zone Management Authority and Institute (www.coastalzonebelize.org) or your fishing guide or hotel may be able to help you get it.
For fishing that’s easier on the pocketbook, you can fish for snapper, barracuda, and other fish from piers and docks on the island. No license is required. Bring your own gear or buy tackle at local hardware stores and ask local anglers about bait. Small sardines work well. For fly-fishing aficionados, there’s a fly-fishing shop at El Pescador. You can also wade out in the flats near shore on North Ambergris, north of the river channel on the back (west) side, and try your luck with bonefish. Keep an eye out for the occasional crocodile. You’ll catch more with a guide and boat, but fishing on your own is inexpensive fun.
Fodor’s Choice | El Pescador.
Established in 1974, El Pescador is the leading fishing lodge on Ambergris Caye, and one of the top in Belize. Located about 2 miles (3 km) north of San Pedro, it works with around 20 fishing guides. It offers bonefish, permit, and tarpon fishing packages including upscale room, meals, boat, and guide, starting at around BZ$3,550 per person, double occupancy, for three nights (two days of fishing). Rate does not include flights to Belize, fishing equipment, or tips to guides. | El Pescador | 226/2398, 800/242–2017 in U.S. and Canada | www.elpescador.com.
Fishing Guides
Fishing San Pedro.
A fishing service run by Steve DeMaio, Fishing San Pedro works with about a half-dozen guides on the island. You call Steve, tell him what kind of fishing you want to do, and he will arrange a guide and boat for you and your party for spin or fly-fishing. Rates for a half-day of flats or reef fishing are around BZ$450 for two persons, including boat, guide, and tackle; full-day flats fishing runs around BZ$650 for two. A full day of fishing on the 38-foot Reef Lady is BZ$1,300 for up to six people. Tips to guides are extra. A beach barbecue with fish, lobster (in-season) and chicken is BZ$100 for the boat. | San Pedro | 607/9967 | www.fishingsanpedro.com.
George Bradley.
Long-time local guide George Bradley specializes in fly-fishing for bonefish. | Pescador Dr. | San Pedro | 226/2179.
Go Fish Belize.
Local fishing guide Abbie Marin arranges flats, reef, and deep-sea fishing charters. A full day of fly or spin flats fishing is BZ$700 for one or two persons. | 7 Boca Del Rio Dr. | San Pedro | 226/3121 | www.gofishbelize.com.
Pete Graniel.
Local guide Captain Pedro “Pete” Graniel does both deep sea and reef trips and has a 38-foot boat, Reel Lady, that’s good for trolling. He and the boat can be booked through Fishing San Pedro. | Almond St. | San Pedro | 226/2584, 607/9967 Fishing San Pedro.
Jet Skis
Monkey Business Tour Shop.
Monkey Business Tour Shop at Banana Beach Resort has jet ski rentals for around BZ$300 for two hours. | Banana Beach Resort, Coconut Dr. | San Pedro | 226/3890, 877/288–1011 | www.monkeybusinesstours.com.
Sailing Charters
Belize will probably never rival the British Virgin Islands for sailing. The shallow water and hidden coral heads and tidal currents are dangerous for even those familiar with the area. When you charter a boat you have to stay inside the Barrier Reef, but there’s a lot of beautiful territory to explore.
TMM Belize.
TMM has about a half-dozen catamarans (38 feet–46 feet, with three to four cabins) at its small Belize base. Weeklong bareboat—sailing experience required—and captained charters are available out of San Pedro. Rates vary, depending on boat type and time of year, but range in high season from around BZ$8,400 to BZ$18,000 a week, not including provisions (available through TMM for around BZ$60 per person per day), cruising fee (BZ$20 per person), insurance fee of BZ$50 a day, and incidentals. Skippers are an additional BZ$300 per day, plus food and gratuity; cooks are BZ$220 a day, plus food and gratuity. Bareboat charters must stay inside the reef. Split among three to eight people, sailing charter prices are not as high as they sound. | Coconut Dr., south of Wings department store across from airstrip | San Pedro | 226/3026, 800/633–0155 in U.S. and Canada | www.sailtmm.com | Office daily 8–5.
Scuba Diving and Snorkeling
Dives off Ambergris are usually single tank at depths of 50 to 80 feet, allowing about 35 minutes of bottom time. Diving trips run around BZ$90 for a single-tank dive, BZ$150 for a two-tank dive, BZ$90–BZ$110 for a one-tank night dive, BZ$450–BZ$500 for a three-tank full-day drive trip to Turneffe atoll, and BZ$700–750 for day trips with three dives to Lighthouse Reef. Atoll rates include breakfast, lunch and marine reserve admission. Dive gear rental is usually extra—a full package of gear including wet suit, buoyancy compensator, regulator, mask, and fins is around BZ$60–BZ$80. Snorkeling by boat around Ambergris generally costs BZ$70–BZ$100 per person for two or three hours or BZ$140–BZ$200 for a day trip, including lunch. If you go to Hol Chan Marine Reserve there’s a BZ$20 park fee, but this fee is sometimes included in the quoted rate. A snorkel trip to the Blue Hole is around BZ$450–BZ$480, including the BZ$80 Marine Reserve fee. Snorkel gear rental may be additional. Prices also may not include 12.5% tax. (Businesses are supposed to include the 12.5% GST in their quoted prices, but not all do.) Most dive shops will pick you up at your hotel or at the nearest pier.
TIP Be careful when snorkeling off docks and piers on Ambergris Caye. There’s heavy boat traffic between the reef and shore, and boat captains may not be able to see snorkelers in the water. Several snorkelers near shore have been killed or seriously injured by boats.
Dive and Snorkel Sites
Fodor’s Choice | Bacalar Chico Marine National Park & Reserve.
Development on Ambergris continues relentlessly, but most of the far north of the island remains pristine, or close to it. At the top of the caye, butting up against Mexico, Bacalar Chico National Park and Marine Reserve spans 41 square miles (105 square km) of land, reef, and sea. Here, on 11 miles (18 km) of trails you may cross paths with whitetail deer, ocelots, saltwater crocodiles, and, according to some reports, pumas and jaguars. There are excellent diving, snorkeling, and fishing opportunities, especially off Rocky Point, and a small visitor center and museum will get you oriented. You’ll need a boat and a guide to take you here, where there are some small, unexcavated Mayan ruins. Be sure to bring insect repellent. An all-day snorkel trip to Bacalar Chico from San Pedro costs around BZ$170–BZ$220 per person. Trips from Sarteneja also are offered for about the same cost. | North end of Ambergris Caye | BZ$10 or BZ$30 for weekly pass.
Fodor’s Choice | Belize Barrier Reef.
The longest barrier reef in either the Western or Northern hemispheres (it’s just a widely accepted rumor that it’s the second-longest barrier reef in the world, after the Great Barrier Reef in Australia), the Belize Barrier Reef is off the eastern shore of Ambergris Caye. From the island shore, or from the air, you see the coral reef as an almost unbroken chain of white surf. Inside the reef, the water is clear and shallow, and the reef itself is a beautiful living wall formed by billions of small coral polyps. Just outside the reef, the seabed drops sharply, and from a distance the water looks dark blue or purple. The reef is closest to shore on the far north end of Ambergris Caye. In and around San Pedro town, the barrier reef is a few hundred yards off the beach. | ½ mile (1 km) east of Ambergris Caye (it’s closer to shore the farther north you go on the island).
Fodor’s Choice | Hol Chan Marine Reserve.
The reef’s focal point for diving and snorkeling near Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker is the spectacular Hol Chan Marine Reserve (Maya for “little channel”). It’s a 20-minute boat ride from San Pedro, and about 30 minutes from Caye Caulker. Hol Chan is a break in the reef about 100 feet wide and 20 to 35 feet deep, through which tremendous volumes of water pass with the tides. Shark-Ray Alley, now a part of Hol Chan, is famous as a place to swim, snorkel, and dive with sharks (nearly all are nurse sharks) and Southern sting rays.
TIP Especially during peak visitor periods to the cayes or when several cruise ships are docked off Belize City, snorkel tour boats can stack up at Hol Chan. Check locally to see when Hol Chan may be less busy, and consider visiting in early morning before most of the tours arrive.
The expanded 21-square-mile (55-square-km) park has a miniature Blue Hole and a 12-foot-deep cave whose entrance often attracts the fairy basslet, an iridescent purple-and-yellow fish frequently seen here. The reserve is also home to a large moray eel population.
Varying in depth from 50 feet to 100 feet, Hol Chan’s canyons lie between buttresses of coral running perpendicular to the reef, separated by white, sandy channels. You may find tunnel-like passageways from one canyon to the next. It’s exciting to explore because as you come over each hill you don’t know what you’ll see in the “valley.” Because fishing generally is off-limits here, divers and snorkelers can see abundant marine life, including spotted eagle rays and sharks. There are throngs of squirrelfish, butterfly fish, parrotfish, and queen angelfish, as well as Nassau groupers, barracuda, and large shoals of yellowtail snappers. Unfortunately, also here are lionfish, an invasive Indo-Pacific species that is eating its way—destroying small native fish—from Venezuela to the North Carolina coast. Altogether, more than 160 species of fish have been identified in the marine reserve, along with 40 species of coral, and five kinds of sponges. Hawksbill, loggerhead, and green turtles have also been found here, along with spotted and common dolphins, West Indian manatees, stingrays and several species of sharks.
TIP The currents through the reef can be strong here at times, so tell your guide if you’re not a strong swimmer and ask for a snorkel vest or float. Also, although the nurse sharks are normally docile and very used to humans, they are wild creatures that on rare occasions have bitten snorkelers or divers who disturbed them. | Off southern tip of Ambergris Caye | 526/2247 Hol Chan office in San Pedro | www.holchanbelize.org | BZ$20, normally included in snorkel or dive tour charge.
Fodor’s Choice | Shark-Ray Alley.
Shark-Ray Alley is a sandbar within Hol Chan Marine Reserve where you can snorkel alongside nurse sharks (which can bite but rarely do) and stingrays (which gather here to be fed), and near even larger numbers of day-trippers from San Pedro and cruise ships. Sliding into the water is a small feat of personal bravery—the sight of sharks and rays brushing past is spectacular yet daunting. Although they shouldn’t, guides touch and hold sharks and rays, and sometimes encourage visitors to pet these sea creatures (which you shouldn’t do, either). The Hol Chan Marine Reserve office is on Caribena Street in San Pedro. TIP A night dive at Shark-Ray Alley is a special treat: bioluminescence causes the water to light up, and many nocturnal animals emerge, such as octopus and spider crab. Because of the strong current you’ll need above-average swimming skills. | Southern tip of Ambergris Caye in Hol Chan Marine Reserve | 226/2247 Hol Chan office on Caribena St. in San Pedro | www.holchanbelize.org | BZ$20 marine reserve fee included as a part of Hol Chan fee.
Dive Shops and Operators
Many dive shops and resorts have diving courses. A half-day basic familiarization course or “resort course” costs around BZ$300–BZ$350. A complete four-day PADI open-water certification course costs BZ$800–BZ$1,000. One popular variant is a referral course, where the academic and pool training is done at home, or online, but not the required dives. The cost for two days in Belize is about BZ$550–BZ$650. Prices for dive courses vary a little from island to island, generally being least expensive on Caye Caulker. However, even prices on Ambergris Caye, which tends to have higher costs for most activities, are a little lower than on the mainland.
If you’re staying on Ambergris Caye, Glover’s Reef is out of the question for a day trip by boat. Even with perfect weather—which it often isn’t—a trip to Lighthouse Reef takes between two and three hours. Most trips to Lighthouse and the Blue Hole depart at 6 am and return at 5:30 or 6 pm, making for a long day in the sun and water. Turneffe is more accessible, though it’s still a long and costly day trip, and you’re unlikely to reach the atoll’s southern tip, which has the best diving.
Amigos del Mar.
Amigos del Mar, established in 1987, is perhaps the island’s most consistently recommended dive operation. The PADI facility has a dozen dive boats and offers a range of local dives as well as trips to Turneffe Atoll and Lighthouse Reef in a fast 56-foot dive boat. Amigos charges BZ$150 per person for a local two-tank dive, not including equipment rental (if needed) or 12.5% tax, and BZ$600 for a 12-hour trip to the Blue Hole, including BZ$80 park fee and lunch but not equipment rental or tax. An open water certification course is BZ$900. Amigos also offers snorkel and fishing trips. | On a pier off Barrier Reef Dr., near Mayan Princess Hotel | San Pedro | 226/2706, 800/882–6159 | www.amigosdivebelize.com.
Ecologic Divers.
This PADI shop has won a good reputation for safety, service, and ecologically sound practices. Local two-tank dives go out daily at 9 and 2 and cost BZ$150, not including any equipment rental or 12.5% tax. Full-day Turneffe trips are BZ$500 including breakfast and lunch, but not 12.5% tax. | On pier at north end of San Pedro, just south of The Phoenix resort | San Pedro | 226/4118, 800/244–7774 in U.S. and Canada | www.ecologicdivers.com.
Hugh Parkey’s Belize Dive Connection.
The long-established Hugh Parkey’s Belize Dive Connection has moved its main dive shop operation from Belize City to the dock of the SunBreeze Hotel in San Pedro. The late Hugh Parkey was a pioneer in diving in Belize, and this dive operation maintains Parkey’s legacy of excellence. BDC has a 46-foot dive boat and does trips to the barrier reef as well as to Turneffe and Lighthouse atolls. Dive/hotel packages with SunBreeze are offered. | SunBreeze Hotel Pier, Beachfront | San Pedro | 220/4024 | www.hpbelizeadventures.com.
Lil’ Alphonse Tours.
Offering snorkeling only, Lil’ Alphonse himself usually captains the tours, doing a fabulous job making snorkelers feel comfortable in the water. | Coconut Dr., across street from Changes in Latitudes B&B | San Pedro | 226/3136 | www.ambergriscaye.com/alfonso.
Patojo’s Scuba Center.
Operated by Elmer “Patojo” Paz, who has nearly 20 years of diving experience, Patojo’s Scuba Center at The Tides Hotel is a small dive shop with a good reputation. | The Tides Hotel, north end of San Pedro | San Pedro | 226/2283 | www.ambergriscaye.com/tides.
SEAduced by Belize.
This well-run snorkeling, sailing, and tour company does full-day snorkeling trips to Bacalar Chico and to Mexico Rocks and Robles Point. Trips include a lovely beach barbecue. SEAduced also does Hol Chan snorkel tours, plus mainland trips to Mayan sites and cave tubing. This locally run company offers sailing cruises as well. | Vilma Linda Plaza, Tarpon St. | San Pedro | 226/2254 | www.seaducedbybelize.com.
SEArious Adventures.
This long-established snorkeling and sailing shop does day snorkel trips to Caye Caulker (BZ$100 plus park fees and equipment rental), along with a variety of other snorkel and sail trips. It also offers day sails and mainland tours. | Beachfront, on dock,between Tarpon and Black Coral St. | San Pedro | 226/4202 | www.seariousadventures.com.
White Sands Dive Shop.
White Sands Dive Shop isn’t at White Sands Resort but at Las Terrazas. Never mind, this PADI dive center is run by Elbert Greer, a noted diver and birder who has taught scuba in San Pedro for more than 20 years, getting some 2,500 divers certified. A daily scheduled dive and snorkel boat picks up at island resorts starting around 9 am. | Las Terrazas, North Ambergris Caye | 226/2405 | www.whitesandsdiveshop.com.
How to Choose a Dive Master
Many dive masters in Belize are former anglers who began diving on the side and ended up doing it full-time. The best have an intimate knowledge of the reef and a superb eye for coral and marine life.
When choosing a dive master or dive shop, first check the web. Participants on forums and newsgroups such as www.ambergriscaye.com and www.scubaboard.com field many questions on diving and dive shops in Belize. On islands where there are multiple dive shops, spend some time talking to dive masters to see which ones make you feel most comfortable. Find out about their backgrounds and experience, as well as the actual crew that would be going out with you. Are they dive masters, instructors, or just crew? Get a sense of how the dive master feels about reef and sea life conservation.
Besides questions about costs and equipment, ask:
• How many people, maximum, go out on your dive trips?
• Is there a minimum number of divers before you’ll make the trip?
• What dive sites are your favorites, and why?
• What kind of boats do you have, and how long does it take to get where we’re going?
• Who is actually in the water with the divers?
• What kind of safety and communications equipment is on the boat?
• What’s the procedure for cancellation in case of bad weather?
• How do you decide if you’re going out or not?
If you’re not comfortable with the answers, or if the dive shop just doesn’t pass your sniff test, move on.
Dive Boats
If you want to hit the best dive spots in Belize and dive a lot—up to five or six dives a day—live-aboard dive boats may be your best bet. The two main international live-aboard companies serving Belize, Aggressor Fleet and Sun Dancer, have merged. Their two live-aboard boats in Belize concentrate on dives around Lighthouse Reef atoll and the Blue Hole. The boats are based at the Radisson Fort George Hotel in Belize City.
Expect to pay about US$2,300–US$2,700 per person double occupancy for six days of diving. The price includes all dives, meals, airport transfers, and stateroom accommodations on the dive boat. It doesn’t include airfare to Belize, overnight stays at a hotel before or after the dive trip if necessary, tips, U.S. port fees (US$95), some alcoholic beverages, equipment rentals, Nitrox, port charges, and incidentals.
Agressor Fleet.
The Agressor Fleet operates two live-aboards in Belize, the Belize Aggressor III and Sun Dancer II. Guests are met at the international airport near Belize City and are taken to the dock at the Radisson Fort George. Boats leave on Saturday evening for Lighthouse Reef, Half Moon Caye, and the Blue Hole, with as many as five or six dives each day available. They return the next Friday. The Aggressor III can accommodate up to 18 passengers in nine staterooms. It’s a 110-foot luxury cruiser with a hot tub and sundeck, powered by twin 500-horsepower engines. The Sun Dancer II, a 138-foot yacht, can accommodate up to 20 passengers in 10 staterooms. All staterooms on both live-aboards have private heads, TVs, and DVDs, plus individual climate controls. | Lighthouse Reef | 706/993–2531 U.S. office, 800/348–2628 in the U.S. and Canada, 223/0748 shore office in Belize | info@liveaboardfleet.com | www.aggressor.com | Sun Dancer II, US$2,295 to $2,495 per person; Aggressor III, US$2,495 to $2,695. Rates are plus US$95 for U.S. port fees and do not include airfare to Belize, equipment rentals, Nitrox, alcoholic beverages (except local beer), or gratuities.
Windsurfing and Kitesurfing
Caye Caulker is better known as a windsurfing destination, perhaps because it attracts a younger crowd than Ambergris Caye, but the winds are equally good and consistent off Ambergris Caye. February through July sees the windiest conditions, with winds 12 to 20 knots most days. Kitesurfing, combining a windsurfing-type board pulled by a large kite, is also available on Ambergris Caye.
Sailsports Belize.
Sailsports Belize at Caribbean Villas offers private windsurfing instruction at around BZ$100 an hour, with equipment rental from BZ$98 a day. Kitesurfing equipment (kite and board) rentals are around BZ$164 for a full day. All rates plus 12.5% tax. Sailsports Belize also rents small catamarans and other sailboats. | Beachfront, Caribbean Villas, Seagrape Dr. | San Pedro | 226/4488 | www.sailsportsbelize.com.
Mainland Tours
You can do tours of mainland sights including Mayan ruins, the Belize Zoo, and cave tubing from San Pedro, though the cost will be higher than from the mainland. From Ambergris Caye a full-day cave-tubing trip, combined with lunch and a visit to the zoo, runs BZ$250–BZ$280. A visit to Altun Ha is BZ$150–BZ$210. Considered by many as the best San Pedro tour operator for mainland trips, Tanisha specializes in full-day Lamanai trips (around BZ$220 per person, plus 12.5% tax). The full-day Lamanai trip includes a boat ride up the New River and also includes a light breakfast, lunch, beer, rum punch, and soft drinks. Tanisha also offers cave tubing (BZ$240–BZ$350, plus tax), trips to Altun Ha (BZ$180 including tax), and other tours. SEAduced by Belize is unrivaled for its nature and kayak tours. SEAduced by Belize and SEArious Adventures both do a variety of trips, including manatee spotting, visits to Altun Ha, and others. If tour prices from San Pedro seem too high, you can take a water taxi to Belize City and rent a car or take a cab for your own DIY tour, though the hassle factor may be higher.
Contacts
SEAduced by Belize | 226/2254 | www.seaducedbybelize.com.
SEArious Adventures. | 226/420.
Tanisha Eco Tours. | Beachfront, Boca del Rio Dr., | San Pedro | 226/2314 | www.tanishatours.com.
Where to Eat
Ambergris Caye has the largest and most diverse selection of restaurants in the country. Here you can buy cheap tacos or grilled chicken from a street vendor, eat barbecued fish on the beach, or, at the other end, dine on lobster, crab claws, and steak at upscale eateries. Even the most upmarket spots have a casual atmosphere, some with sand floors and screenless windows open to catch the breezes from the sea.
The largest concentration of restaurants is in town, but many, including some of the best on the island, are opening on the South End and on North Ambergris.
San Pedro Town
Blue Water Grill.
SEAFOOD | Close to the beach and perpetually busy, this restaurant’s seats are on a raised, covered deck with views of the Barrier Reef a few hundred yards away. The emphasis here is on seafood such as grilled grouper or snapper, but there are good wood-fired pizzas and pastas, too. The owners run a tight ship, and by island standards the service is top-notch. The crispy coconut shrimp appetizer is our favorite. | Average main: $40 | SunBreeze Beach Hotel, Coconut Dr., Beachfront | 226/3347 | www.bluewatergrillbelize.com.
Caliente.
CARIBBEAN | Have a seat at Caliente and catch the sea breezes and look at the reef. You’ll dig into spicy Mexican dishes with a Caribbean and Belizean twist, such as ginger rum shrimp or grilled lobster with a sauce of tomatoes, cilantro, peppers, and onions. The same owners also operate Red Ginger and Blue Water Grille. | Average main: $30 | Barrier Reef Dr., in Spindrift Hotel | 226/2170 | www.calientebelize.com | Closed Mon.
Caramba.
SEAFOOD | You’ll quickly sense the frenetic energy of this noisy and often packed restaurant in the middle of town. No view, and there’s nothing very fancy on the lengthy menu here—just basics like grilled or fried snapper, fried shrimp, pork chops, and Mexican fajitas and burritos—but most everything is well prepared, prices are moderate, and the service is snappy and enthusiastic. The restaurant was recently renovated. | Average main: $30 | Pescador Dr. | 226/4321 | Closed Wed.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | DandE’s Frozen Custard & Sorbet.
CAFÉ | Dan and Eileen (DandE) Jamison, who used to run the local weekly paper, the San Pedro Sun, opened this shop in 2005, and they’ve been serving creamy custards and cooling sorbets ever since (except for taking a little time off each summer.) For something with an island flavor, try the mango sorbet or the soursop frozen custard. The rum raisin custard is our favorite. | Average main: $7 | Pescador Dr., next to Cocina Caramba | 660/5966 | www.dande.bz | No credit cards | Closed Mon. and Tues.
DJ’s Seaside Bar & Restaurant.
AMERICAN | With a menu of burgers, wings, and other American fare this casual spot near the bridge on the north end of town is designed to attract tourists and U.S. expats. If that’s what you’re hankering for, pull a stool up to the blue tile bar and order a mess of hot wings, a bucket of beer, and enjoy. | Average main: $20 | Boca del Rio, north end of town near park | 206/2464.
Fodor’s Choice | El Fogon.
LATIN AMERICAN | El Fogon serves authentic down-home Belizean cooking like chaya tamales, gibnut, and stew chicken, in a quaint thatch building with dirt floor. You sit at picnic tables. Food is prepared in cast iron pots in a traditional fogon, a wood-burning stove. Though it’s in town just two blocks just north of the Tropic Air terminal at the airstrip, it’s a little hard to find. Ask any local where it is. | Average main: $24 | North of Tropic Air terminal,2 Trigger Fish St., near airport, between Esmeralda and Tarpon St. | 206/2121 | No credit cards | Closed Sun.
Elvi’s Kitchen.
SEAFOOD | In the old days, in 1974, Elvi Staines sold burgers from the window of her house. Soon she added a few tables on the sand under a flamboyant tree. Today, the floors are still sand, and the tree remains (though now lifeless and cut back to fit inside the roof), but everything else is changed. Enter through massive mahogany doors and you’ll be tended to by a staff of a couple of dozen. The burgers are still good, but for dinner Elvi’s now specializes in upmarket dishes such as shrimp in watermelon sauce or crab claws with garlic butter. There’s a Mexican-themed night on Wednesday and a “Mayan Feast” on Friday night. For dessert, don’t pass on the coconut pie. It’s all a bit touristy, but we always enjoy Elvi’s. | Average main: $37 | Pescador Dr., near Ambergris St. | 226/2404 | www.elviskitchen.com | Closed Sun.
Estel’s Dine by the Sea.
AMERICAN | This is San Pedro’s absolute best spot for a hearty American-style breakfast of eggs, bacon, fried potatoes, fry jacks, and freshly squeezed juice, or arguably the best Bloody Mary in town. Estel’s even has grits! Later in the day you can order burgers, Mexican meals, and good seafood dishes. The little white-and-aqua building is on the beach, as you might infer from the sandy floor and porthole-shaped windows. Best seats for breakfast are on the terrace outside where you can sit and watch pelicans. | Average main: $20 | Beachfront, Barrier Reef Dr. | 226/2019.
Fido’s Courtyard.
AMERICAN | Sooner or later you’re sure to end up at Fido’s (pronounced Fee-dough’s), sipping something cold and contemplating the sea views, under what the owners claim is the largest thatch palapa in Belize. If not the largest in Belize, it may at least be the largest on Ambergris Caye. This casual joint serves mediocre burgers, fish-and-chips, tacos, and other bar food, but it’s a good place to get a cold beer and enjoy the live music most nights. | Average main: US$20 | Barrier Reef Dr., Beachfront, just north of Catholic church | 226/3176.
Fodor’s Choice | Red Ginger.
SEAFOOD | With its stylishly minimalist decor and ice-cold air-conditioning, this restaurant could be in L.A., but it’s actually at The Phoenix resort at the north end of San Pedro. No sea views here—you gaze at deep red and mocha cream walls, with brown earth-tone accents, and tropical wild ginger plants in glass vases. After a ginger or basil mojito, start with ceviche, your choice of grouper, or mixed shrimp and lobster. Try the grilled snook with guava tamarind glaze and salsa, or the blackened snapper. A five-course tasting menu is BZ$100 per person. The service is a couple of notches above most other places in San Pedro. | Average main: $48 | The Phoenix, Barrier Reef Dr., at north end of town | 226/4623 | www.redgingerbelize.com | Closed Tues.
Wild Mango’s.
SEAFOOD | Noted local chef Amy Knox made Wild Mango’s one of the most interesting dining choices on the island. Many of the dishes have a Mexican base but with Knox’s sophisticated twist. She calls her cooking “New Wave Latin”—Caribbean food infused with spicy Latin flavors from Cuba, Argentina, and Mexico. It’s good enough to have earned her Belize Chef of the Year honors twice in the past. Start with the Tres Amigos, three kinds of ceviche with shrimp and fish (Knox does not use conch or lobster, because she believes it is not sustainable.) Try the Budin Azteca, a Mexican version of lasagna, or the huge fish burritos (enough for two). Seating is beach casual, with stools at tables on a covered, open-air veranda. We especially like Wild Mango’s for a casual lunch. | Average main: $28 | Beachfront,42 Barrier Reef Dr., south end of town just south of Ruby’s Hotel | 226/2859 | Closed Sun.
North of San Pedro
Unless you are staying near one of the North Ambergris restaurants, you may want to take a water taxi—the Coastal Xpress—to these restaurants, especially after dark. Cabs from town now go as far north on the golf-cart path as Las Terrazas Resort, though the cost is steep (BZ$30–BZ$50 for most destinations, including the BZ$12 vehicle bridge fee). In a golf cart, the cart path is bumpy and buggy and sometimes impassable after heavy rains.
Fodor’s Choice | Aji Tapa Bar and Restaurant.
SEAFOOD | Relax in a shady seaside patio, under gumbo limbo trellises, coconut palms, and almond and sea grape trees, with views of the barrier reef in the distance, and snack on delicious small plates of barbecue shrimp, ceviche, calamares andaluza, and a heavenly artichoke dip. In larger plates, try the seafood paella, which is prepared in several varieties. If there’s a downside, it’s inconsistency, with the food suffering on the few nights Chef Hugo is off. If you decide you want to stay longer, follow the winding path through tropical gardens and cross a small bridge over a lagoon and you’ll find cute one-bedroom rental cottages. Come by your own golf cart, cab (BZ$35 from San Pedro), or water taxi—get off at Grand Caribe. | Average main: $38 | Beachfront, North Ambergris Caye, 2½ miles (4 km) north of town, Buena Vista Point, just north of Grand Caribe resort | 226/4047 | www.ajitapabar.com.
Capricorn.
SEAFOOD | Capricorn is consistently excellent and one of the more popular upscale restaurants on the island. If there’s a weakness, it’s that the chefs stay with proven winners, such as filet mignon, stone crab claws, and grilled lobster and rarely opt for innovation. At dinner, the seaside setting is romantic. Although the focus here has always been on the restaurant, there are three cute little cabañas. You can get here by golf cart, cab, or water taxi. | Average main: $55 | 3 mi (5 km) north of San Pedro | 226/2809 | www.capricornresort.net.
Lazy Croc BBQ.
BARBECUE | You’ll smell the smoky aroma of barbecue well before you enter this popular spot about 1½ miles (2½ km) north of the bridge. As befits a barbecue joint, the menu is short and sweet—pulled pork, barbecue chicken, ribs, Buffalo wings, chili, and a few other items, with sides of coleslaw, french fries, barbecue beans, fried okra, fried pickles, and macaroni and cheese. Barbecue platters with garlic toast and two sides are around BZ$16 to BZ$30. Lazy Croc has very limited hours: it is only open Thursday–Sunday 11 am–3 pm. Forget plastic—this is cash only. And, yes, there are real crocs in the lagoon near (and even under) the restaurant, but don’t give them leftovers—feeding wild crocodiles is illegal. Go by golf cart, cab (BZ$35 one-way from town), or water taxi (get off at Grand Caribe). | Average main: $20 | Beachfront, Buena Vista Point,15 Buena Vista, just north of Grand Caribe resort, North Ambergris Caye | 2½ miles (4 km) north of center of town and 100 yards north of Grand Caribe | 226/4015 | No credit cards | Closed Mon.–Wed. No dinner. Closes in mid-July for off-season break.
Legends Burger House.
AMERICAN | You can get a big, thick American-style burger here, at this slightly funky hamburger joint (formerly Sweet Basil) in a two-story clapboard building by the side of the golf cart path on North Ambergris. Try the Wyatt Earp burger, piled high with onions, bacon, and cheese, or the “old school” Jerry Garcia, with Swiss cheese and grilled mushrooms. Don’t let them overcook your burger. Fries are excellent, and the beer is cold. | Average main: $17 | 1/4 mi (1/2 km) north of the bridge | 226/2113 | www.legendsburgerhouse.com | Closed Mon.
Rendezvous Restaurant & Winery.
FRENCH | Belize’s only Thai-French-Belizean restaurant combines local seafood with Thai spices and French and Asian presentation. The menu changes frequently, with daily specials. Our favorites include pad thai and spider crabs served with a spicy Singapore sauce. The owners, Glenn and Colleen Schwenginger, who have lived and worked in Thailand and Singapore, also produce and bottle their own wines using imported grape concentrate. It’s not bad. | Average main: $46 | 4 miles (6 km) north of San Pedro, near Las Terrazas | 226/3426 | ambergriscaye.com/rendezvous | No lunch.
Fodor’s Choice | Rojo Beach Bar.
SEAFOOD | Chef Jeff Spiegel, who in a former life was a punk-rock record producer in California, leads this red-hot beach bar on North Ambergris. Rojo Beach Bar, in a sultry open-air palapa on a beautiful beach, has moved to more of a casual bar/bistro atmosphere from a full-scale restaurant, but you can still get sophisticated snacks like lobster pizza. The menu varies a good bit from day to day. Order at the bar and then eat and drink at the beach or on comfy sofas in the breezy lounge. Rojo serves killer frozen mojitos, martinis, and all kinds of fascinating, boozy concoctions. If you feel like cooling off, there is a swimming pool just for bar and restaurant guests. Reachable from town by water taxi or golf cart (if it hasn’t rained too much.) | Average main: $45 | Beachfront, North Ambergris, 5 miles (8 km) north of town | 226/4012 | www.rojolounge.com | Reservations not accepted | Closed Sun. and Mon.
South of San Pedro
Ali Baba.
MIDDLE EASTERN | This is the spot for takeout roast chicken, falafel, hummus, and other Middle Eastern/Lebanese dishes, at modest prices. | Average main: $15 | Coconut Dr., across from Tropic Air terminal | San Pedro | 226/4042 | www.aguallos.com/alibabas | No credit cards.
The Baker.
BAKERY | Come to The Baker, in a new location and run by new owners, an Irish couple, for artisan breads, cookies, and pastries. The Belizean cinnamon loaf is especially tasty, as are the cinnamon rolls, coconut tarts, and peanut butter cookies. Try their cakes and other desserts, too. You can buy freshly brewed coffee to go with your breakfast pastries. | Average main: $8 | South of town near Marina’s grocery, Coconut Dr. (aka Seagrape Dr.) | San Pedro | 206/2036 | No credit cards.
Black Orchid.
AMERICAN | Opened in late 2012, Black Orchid (unrelated to the similarly named resort near Belize City) is a new option in upscale dining on the island. In a raised house beside the sandy road about 2½ miles (4 km) south of town, the atmosphere is island-flavored, with a thatch booth inside for the greeters and some Mayan-themed decor. The luncheon choices range from beer-battered fried fish to sweet-and-sour pork. The dinner menu includes grilled lobster (in season), pork, and a boneless rib eye charbroiled on lava rocks and served with mashed potatoes. For Sunday brunch try the eggs Benedict accompanied by freshly made sangria. | Average main: $38 | S. Coconut Dr., about 2½miles (4 km) south of town | San Pedro | 206/2441 | www.blackorchidrestaurant.com | Closed Mon.
Hidden Treasure.
SEAFOOD | Hidden away on a back street in a residential neighborhood south of town, at Hidden Treasure you dine romantically by candlelight, in the sultry tropical air under a pitched roof set off by bamboo, mahogany, and cabbage-bark wood. The signature barbecue ribs are seasoned with traditional Garífuna spices and glazed with pineapple or papaya sauce. Mojarro a la Lamanai is snapper seasoned with Mayan spices and cooked in a banana leaf. | Average main: $38 | Escalante Residential Area,2715 Flamboyant Dr | San Pedro | about 1½ miles (2.4 km) south of town; go south on Coconut Dr. past Royal Palm Villas and watch for signs | 226/4111 | www.ambergriscaye.com/hiddentreasure/index.html | No lunch.
Fodor’s Choice | La Palmilla.
ECLECTIC | La Palmilla restaurant at Victoria House is classy without being stuffy and romantic without being precious. The setting, near one of the Victoria House pools with views of the sea, in manicured grounds, is among the most attractive in San Pedro. The restaurant does an especially fine job with local seafood, especially grilled lobster. Although there’s a lovely indoor dining room, in good weather you might prefer dining on the patio in the open air, with sea views and a nice breeze from the water. | Average main: $55 | Coconut Dr., at Victoria House resort | San Pedro | 226/2067 | www.victoria-house.com.
Lone Star Grill and Cantina.
AMERICAN | If you’ve got a hankering for a chicken-fried steak, this is the place to get it. Formerly Mr. Joe’s Grocery, Lonestar Grill and Cantina, run by a couple of ex-Texans, is an outpost of Texas cooking on the south end of the island. Enjoy cold beer, margaritas, and some good Tex-Mex dishes. | Average main: $20 | South end of island, about 3 miles (5 km) south of town, Mosquito Dr., near south police sub-station | San Pedro | Go south on Coconut Dr. to the end of the cobblestones and then continue on the dirt road past the water treatment plant. Follow the road to police substation. Bear right, and Lone Star is on the right side of the road. | 226/4666.
FAMILY | Mesa Cafe.
CAFÉ | Mesa Cafe serves the island equivalent of fast food in a surprisingly quiet setting. It’s a great spot for an inexpensive lunch. Try the shrimp burger or fish tacos, and finish with craboo ice cream. | Average main: $14 | Vilma Linda Plaza, Tarpon St. | San Pedro | 226/3444 | Closed for dinner; open for breakfast and lunch daily.
Where to Stay
One of your biggest decisions in Ambergris Caye will be choosing a place to stay. There are three basic options: in or near the town of San Pedro, in the South Beach or South End area beyond town, or on North Ambergris, beyond the river channel. Access to restaurants, bars, and other activities is easiest in and around San Pedro. Accommodations in and near town are generally simple and reasonably priced (BZ$50–BZ$300), with a few notable upscale exceptions such as the deluxe The Phoenix, but rooms on the main streets can be noisy from late-night revelers and traffic.
For silence and sand, head out of town for resort-style accommodations. To get more privacy, consider the South End. Though it, too, is developing rapidly, it’s still less hectic than in town, and it’s only a golf cart or taxi ride away.
If you really want to get away, choose the more remote North Ambergris, which is reached mainly by water taxis and, with a recent change in regulations, by cabs that currently go as far north as Las Terrazas Resort.
With the exception of a few budget places, nearly all the resorts on the island are on the sea. Most are small, under 30 or 40 rooms, and nearly all are four stories or less. Some are owner-managed. The newer resorts and hotels are on North Ambergris Caye, of which the farthest-north resort, Tranquility Bay, is about 12 miles (20 km) north of San Pedro, or on the South End, where the most distant resorts are around 3 miles (5 km) south of town.
TIP During the off-season (May–November), lodging properties often have walk-in rates that are up to a third less than advertised rates. But you’ll usually have to ask for them, as otherwise you’ll pay the regular rate.
Condotels
Besides full-service hotels and resorts, the island has condotels, which are individually owned condos managed by an on-site management company. The condo units usually are offered on a nightly basis, and in most cases the properties have full kitchens and most of the amenities of a regular hotel, except perhaps a restaurant.
Vacation Homes
Ambergris Caye has dozens of homes that can be rented on a weekly basis. These range from simple two-bedroom cottages that go for BZ$1,000–BZ$2,000 a week to luxurious four- or five-bedroom villas, which might rent for BZ$5,000–BZ$10,000 or more weekly. In many cases credit cards are not accepted. In addition to the local rental management companies listed here, also check online for Vacation Rentals By Owner (www.vrbo.com). VRBO lists well over 100 vacation rentals, more than any local management company.
Also on the island are clusters of upscale homes or villas that are offered for weekly, and sometimes nightly, rental. These luxury homes, often with 4,000–5,000 square feet of space or more, typically have a shared pool and other resort-like amenities. Although they usually have no restaurant, they may offer food service prepared by a chef and delivered to guests in the homes.
Caye Management.
This is the island’s oldest rental management company and typically has around 20 vacation homes for rent. | Rooms from: $650 | Casa Coral, Barrier Reef Dr., at north end of town | San Pedro | 226/3077 | www.cayemanagement.com | Around 20 vacation rental houses and suites | No credit cards.
Time-shares
Time-shares have been on the island for years. Captain Morgan’s is one of them. It opened a small casino at its property in mid-2011. Reef Village, on North Ambergris just beyond the bridge, was known for its aggressive time-share touts, but in 2011 it ran into financial and management problems with its time-shares, and the future course of this development is up in the air. Fairly new to the island are upscale “fractional ownership” or “residential club” resorts, which sell longer-term memberships and rights to use the property, typically for two, four, or six months a year. One of these, Sueño del Mar, opened on North Ambergris in 2006 but shut down in 2010, leaving more than 100 owners at least temporarily out in the cold, before reopening in 2011. The moral? Think twice before putting any money in a time-share or fractional ownership scheme.
San Pedro Town
Caye Casa.
RENTAL | This small complex on the beach at the very north end of town was designed to have a colonial atmosphere—with thatched roofs on the porches, wooden shutters, and traditional hardwood railings—but built to modern architectural standards. Longtime Belize resident Julie Babcock built these three beachfront condo villas to go with her two small casitas.The great rooms in the condo units have cathedral ceilings, track lighting, and tile floors. There’s a small pool and a pier. You can mix and match the units to accommodate a family or group. On the lower-priced end there also are two rooms with king beds. Pros: pleasant, well-designed small condo colony; quiet; beachfront spot. Cons: older casitas are fairly basic; pool is quite small. | Rooms from: $253 | Beachfront, at north end of town, Boca del Rio Dr. | 226/2880, 800/936–3433 in U.S. | www.cayecasa.com | 3 villas, 2 casitas, 2 rooms | No meals.
Mayan Princess.
HOTEL | Sitting pretty and pink in the middle of town, this long-established seafront three-story condo hotel has rattan furniture covered with pastel-color fabrics, lacking only a pool to make it a perfect mid-level choice. Sliding doors open onto verandas, where you can eat meals prepared in your well-equipped kitchenette. All 23 units have lovely sea views. Just a few steps away is one of the island’s best dive shops, Amigos del Mar. Pros: central in-town location; pleasant one-bedroom efficiencies with sea views; near good dive shop. Cons: no swimming pool on-site; beach area has heavy boat and pedestrian traffic. | Rooms from: $345 | Beachfront, Barrier Reef Dr., in center of town | 226/2778, 800/850–4101 | www.mayanprincesshotel.com | 23 1-bedroom suites | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | The Phoenix.
RESORT | This luxury beachfront condominium resort has spacious suites, luxuriously outfitted with custom closets, cabinets, and doors in beautiful tropical hardwoods, stainless-steel kitchen appliances, washer-dryers, and original art. The grounds are marked by bold geometric forms. There are gorgeous views of the sea and the reef from every unit, but the beachfront units, just steps from the sea, are worth the extra charge. The Phoenix is at the north end of town, on the former site of a nun’s retreat and the old Paradise Hotel. The upmarket Red Ginger restaurant is on-site, and there are two pools. Pros: deluxe, stylish, beautifully designed condo suites; in-town’s most luxurious hotel; first-rate service. Cons: for some it lacks a get-away-from-it-all feel. | Rooms from: $872 | Barrier Reef Dr., beachfront, at north end of town | 226/2083, 877/822–5512 in U.S. and Canada | www.thephoenixbelize.com | 30 suites (not all in rental pool) | No meals.
Ruby’s.
HOTEL | Budget-minded travelers flock to this simple hotel on the beach at the south end of town. There are some drawbacks, but on an otherwise fairly expensive island the price is right here. The original rooms have fans and private bath, facing the street. On the sea-side there are air-conditioned rooms with private baths. Book ahead, as Ruby’s is often full. The hotel’s little restaurant, Ruby’s Café, opens early for the fishing and diving crowd. Pros: this is old-time island lodging; among the few budget accommodations in town. Cons: no frills; not always the cleanest rooms; bring earplugs as rooms on the street side can be noisy. | Rooms from: $80 | Beachfront, south end of town, Barrier Reef Dr. | 226/2063 | www.ambergriscaye.com/rubys | 23 rooms, 21 with bath.
San Pedro Holiday Hotel.
HOTEL | Trimmed in cheery pink-and-white colors, this spic-and-span quartet of colonial-style houses on the water is near the center of San Pedro. San Pedro Holiday Hotel opened in 1965 as the first hotel on the island. All rooms have polished wood floors, and many have views of the in-town beach. Caprice Bar & Grill, on the beach, has replaced the hotel’s venerable Celi’s Restaurant, and Celi’s Deli has snacks from breakfast to late afternoon. If these don’t suit you, there are many restaurants within a short stroll. A dive shop, Island Divers, is on-site. Pros: central location; affordable, clean rooms; island’s first hotel. Cons: no pool; in-town beach isn’t very good for swimming; busy town area can be noisy. | Rooms from: $278 | Beachfront, Barrier Reef Dr. | 226/2014, 713/893–3825 in U.S. | www.sanpedroholiday.com | 16 rooms, 1 apartment | No meals.
SunBreeze Hotel.
HOTEL | A midsize resort across from the airstrip at the town’s busy southern edge (though there’s no issue with aircraft noise), the waterfront SunBreeze has large rooms that surround a U-shaped, plant-filled courtyard. Five premier rooms have whirlpool baths; some rooms are equipped for guests with disabilities, a rarity in Belize. There’s a small beach area (with a seawall, though), a good on-site dive shop, Hugh Parkey’s Belize Dive Connection, and a shaded above-ground pool next to the on-site, Blue Water Grill restaurant. Also under the same ownership is SunBreeze Suites at the north end of town. Both are part of the Roe Group, a prominent Belize City company that also operates the Biltmore Plaza in Belize City and Hidden Valley Inn in the Mountain Pine Ridge. Pros: comfortable, well-run; motel-like lodging; some rooms handicap-accessible; good restaurant on-site (under separate management). Cons: not much of a beach; rates have crept up. | Rooms from: $412 | Coconut Dr., across from Tropic Air terminal and airstrip | 226/2191, 800/688–0191 in U.S. and Canada | www.sunbreeze.net | 43 rooms | No meals.
The Tides Beach Resort.
HOTEL | If diving is your reason for being in Belize, and you don’t want to spend a ton of money, you couldn’t do better than this beachfront hotel at the north end of town, owned by Patojo Paz, one of the island’s most experienced dive masters, and his wife. The three-story wood-frame structure recalls a time before everyone built with reinforced concrete. Top picks here are the second- and third-floor oceanfront rooms, which have balconies overlooking the beach. This is one of the island’s best values in pricey San Pedro. Suites with kitchens are more expensive. There’s a pool. The hotel is at the north edge of town, but you can stroll along the beach to San Pedro’s bars and restaurants. Pros: locally owned beachfront hotel; respected dive shop, Patojo’s, on-site; very good value. Cons: rooms aren’t overly large; beds and furnishings in some rooms need upgrading. | Rooms from: $164 | Boca del Rio Dr., Beachfront, north end of town | 226/2283 | www.ambergriscaye.com/tides | 12 rooms, 3 suites | Breakfast.
North of San Pedro
Ak’bol Yoga Retreat & Eco-Resort.
RESORT | This hip little beach resort on North Ambergris has seven simple thatch cabanas, some with sea views, around a natural stone swimming pool. You’ll love the outdoor showers in the cabanas. On the lagoon side is a three-story “barracks” with 30 single rooms (shared baths) for those attending yoga retreats. These rooms have no a/c, no frills, and can be hot and buggy. Soul Kitchen, the restaurant and bar, serves local foods at reasonable prices, and it also offers pizzas and vegetarian dishes. Pros: cool, small, laid-back resort; rooms and restaurant are good values. Cons: you may feel like an outcast if you can’t do downward dog. | Rooms from: BZ$336 | North Ambergris, 1¾ miles (3 km) north of center of town | 226/2073 | www.akbol.com | 7 cabanas, 30 rooms with shared baths | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | Azul Resort.
RESORT | This small resort has two-level, 3,000-square-foot, two-bedroom villas on 10 private acres of beachfront. The rooms feature an open floor plan, 20-foot ceilings, and beams of mylady wood. Custom kitchens have Viking appliances, and the stunning cabinets and much of the furniture are made of Belize’s beautiful ziricote wood. Each villa has a 50-inch plasma flat-screen TV and a Bose home-theater system. On the rooftop, you can laze in the hot tub or sunbathe in delicious privacy, with amazing views of the barrier reef. There’s a gorgeous circular infinity pool, shared by the two villas, and the hip Rojo Bar (under Azul ownership) is on one side and Mambo restaurant at Mata Chica resort is on the other. Villas require a three-night minimum stay. If money isn’t an object, you can transfer from Belize City to Azul by Astrum helicopter. Children under 10 not permitted. Pros: amazing private beachfront villas with every luxury; five-star service. Cons: not for those on a budget. | Rooms from: BZ$1199 | North Ambergris, 5 miles (8 km) north of San Pedro | 226/4012 | www.azulbelize.com | 2 beach houses | No meals.
FAMILY | Belizean Shores.
RESORT | If you’re looking for a peaceful resort setting at competitive prices, this older beachfront condotel on North Ambergris with one-bedroom units is a good choice. Kick back with a cool cocktail from the large 24-hour pool’s swim-up bar, or stay in and cook dinner in the well-equipped kitchens, which have mahogany cabinets, fridges, microwaves, and small butane stoves. The on-site restaurant has improved, and there are good restaurants within walking distance. Or, you can go into town on the resort’s boat or by water taxi. There’s an on-site dive shop, along with tennis, basketball, and volleyball courts. Rates, especially off-season, are lower than at many other beachfront resorts. The cheapest units are still handsome, if occasionally a bit worn in places. Pros: comfortable condos; great pool; lots of on-site sports activities. Cons: beach swimming not that great; getting into town requires a boat ride or long golf cart ride; some units need updating and refurbishing. | Rooms from: BZ$375 | 3½ miles (6 km) north of San Pedro | 226/4478, 800/319–9026 in U.S. and Canada | www.belizeanshores.com | 48 suites | No meals.
FAMILY | Coco Beach Resort.
RESORT | Coco Beach Resort is one of the top-end condotels on the island, with spacious one- and two-bedroom suites and large rooms on an attractive stretch of beach about 3½ miles (6 km) north of San Pedro. The earth-toned suites have Balinese rattan furniture and Spanish tiles. Kitchens have granite countertops and stainless appliances. Five penthouses have amazing views of the sea and barrier reef. There are two gorgeous free form saltwater swimming pools. A sister property to Belizean Shores, guests at Coco Beach can use the tennis, basketball, and volleyball court at Belizean Shores next door. Coco Beach often offers discounted rates, so check specials before you book. Pros: big, beautiful suites; gorgeous swimming pools; nice beach. Cons: food service is limited and gets mixed reviews; getting to town requires a boat ride; no breakfast served on-site—you have to walk up to Belizean Shores for your morning meal; no elevators, and upper level suites require walking a lot of steps. | Rooms from: BZ$780 | Beachfront, 4 miles (7 km) north of San Pedro | 877/744–3028 in U.S. and Canada, 226/4840 | www.cocobeachbelize.com | 45 1- and 2-bedroom condo suites, 17 rooms | No meals.
FAMILY | Cocotal Inn & Cabanas.
RESORT | If you’re looking for a small, homey spot on the beach, Cocotal could be it. There are only five units - three cottages and two suites in the main house. Our favorite is the casita, with vaulted hardwood ceiling (capped with a cute cupola) and a four-poster queen bed. It’s closest to the beach and also overlooks the pool. All units have fully equipped kitchens, so you can cook your own meals, or hop on one of the complimentary bikes and ride to a nearby restaurant or into town. The friendly, helpful owners are on-site. There’s a small artificial reef at the pier for snorkeling. Pros: friendly, small resort on the beach; pool; affordable rates. Cons: no restaurant on-site. | Rooms from: BZ$305 | North Ambergris, 2½ miles (4 km) north of the center of town | San Pedro | 226/2097 | www.cocotalbelize.com | 1 casita, 2 cabanas, 1 1-bedroom suite, 1 2-bedroom suite | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | El Pescador.
RESORT | Nearly every hotel on Ambergris Caye claims that it can arrange fishing trips, but this resort really has the best angling resources, plus beautiful suites and grounds as well. Loosely described as a “fishing camp,” the main lodge is actually a handsome colonial house with comfortable, if not luxurious, rooms and a swimming pool. Adjoining the lodge in two groupings, each with a pool, are deluxe one-, two- and three-bedroom villas. You can enjoy a fine meal, served family style in the dining room, or a drink on the veranda. Many guests arrive as part of a fishing package; prices start at around BZ$3,550 per person, double occupancy, for three nights (two full days of fishing), including fishing guide, boat, meals, local drinks, and taxes. The resort has a fly-fishing shop and offers fly-fishing lessons. Diving and other packages are also available. Complimentary bikes and kayaks are on offer, as well. Pros: this is the place for saltwater anglers, but it’s a good choice even if you don’t fish; top-notch service. Cons: rooms in original lodge are not as spacious as they could be; not inexpensive. | Rooms from: BZ$600 | 2½ miles (4 km) north of San Pedro | 226/2398, 800/242–2017 in U.S. and Canada | www.elpescador.com | 13 rooms, 8 villas | Multiple meal plans.
Fodor’s Choice | El Secreto.
RESORT | Opened in 2012, El Secreto is a beachfront resort with 13 stunning thatch villas—some beachfront, others around a small lagoon or in gardens—that is so appealing you may not even notice how remote the location is. Eleven miles (18 km) north of San Pedro, you’re so far away from town you might as well be at a secret island. You can while away your time at the spa, kayak out to the reef, bike around the north end of the island, or sip cold drinks on the beach. If you get cabaña fever, the resort offers excursions to Hol Chan and Mayan ruins on the mainland, and other tours. El Secreto has its own dive master and offers a variety of dive trips, along with fishing. Dining at the resort’s restaurant is romantic, with very good if not always gourmet-level food. All-inclusive packages including meals and tours are available, with three-night packages from around BZ$6,000 per couple. Pros: like being on a private island; stunning large cabanas; excellent staff and service. Cons: you’re in a remote area and miss a lot of the great restaurants and nightlife of San Pedro; very expensive; be prepared for some bugs. | Rooms from: BZ$1428 | 11 miles (18 km) north of San Pedro, Beachfront | Ambergris Caye | 236/5111, 800/479–5037 | www.elsecretobelize.com | 13 villas | Multiple meal plans.
Fodor’s Choice | Grand Caribe Resort and Condominiums.
RENTAL | Set in an arc on a 5-acre beachfront site, Grand Caribe’s 72 super-luxury condos, in eight four-story, red-tiled-roof clusters, face the sea and a 500-foot stretch of sandy beach. Grand Caribe opened in 2008, with the most recent units completed in 2011; more are to come at a later phase. The one, two-, three-and four-bedroom suites have Brazilian floor tiles, kitchens with granite countertops and mahogany cabinets, and high-quality furnishings. Rare in Belize, some units have elevator access. There are three pools, one with a swim-up bar and bar and grill serving light meals. Several good restaurants are within walking distance. The long pier has berths for a number of boats. Pros: super-luxury condos, all with views of the sea; short bike, golf cart ride, or taxi ride to restaurants and to town. Cons: pricey but worth it if you want the best; taxi to town is BZ$35. | Rooms from: BZ$1069 | Tres Cocos area of North Ambergris, 1¼ miles (2 km) north of bridge | 226/4726, 800/488–5903 from U.S. or Canada | www.grandcaribe.com | 72 condominium suites | No meals.
La Perla del Caribe.
RENTAL | Twelve deluxe villas (eight for rental) command the beachfront about 6 miles (10 km) north of town. Varying in size from two to five-bedrooms, most of the units are named after precious jewels, such as Sapphire, Opal, and Emerald. The architecture is inspired by Mexican, Moroccan, and Mayan traditions. Villas are enhanced by distinctive touches such as mahogany floors, custom-made furniture, and gourmet kitchens. Pros: very upscale villas with every amenity; lovely beach. Cons: expensive; somewhat remote; no on-site restaurant. | Rooms from: BZ$1140 | North Ambergris, 6 miles (10 km) north of San Pedro, Beachfront | 226/5888, 866/290–6341 in U.S. and Canada | www.laperladelcaribe.com | 8 rental villas.
Fodor’s Choice | Las Terrazas.
RENTAL | Las Terrazas luxury condos have 9-foot ceilings, travertine tile floors, fully equipped kitchens with Brazilian granite countertops, cable TV, and high-speed Internet. One-, two-, and three-bedroom suites are available on a nightly basis. The An unusual, two-level curved pier sweeps out into the sea. A dive shop, White Sands Cove Dive Shop, is now on-site, as well as the O Restaurant, a fitness center, and two pools. Package plans with meals are available. Las Terrazas is the northernmost point currently served by cabs from San Pedro (BZ$50 one-way), but water taxis also stop here. Pros: luxury condos on over 500 feet of beachfront; elegant interior design; good on-site dive shop. Cons: not inexpensive, especially for larger units. | Rooms from: BZ$664 | North Ambergris, 4 miles (6½ km) north of town, Beachfront | 226/4249, 800/447–1553 in U.S. and Canada | www.lasterrazasresort.com | 39 condo suites (39 additional units planned) | Multiple meal plans.
Fodor’s Choice | Matachica Resort & Spa.
RESORT | Thatch casitas in shades of mango, banana, and blueberry offset by brilliant white sand give this deluxe beachfront resort a Gauguin-like quality. Inside, the fabric, artwork, and tiles echo the outdoor colors. Five new beachfront casitas with king beds, Matouk and Frette linens, and private patios command the best views of the sea and the barrier reef. The on-site Jade Spa offers banana and papaya facials, coffee scrubs, and chocolate body wraps along with more traditional spa services. There’s a large swimming pool. Delectable though pricey seafood and other dishes are served at Mambo, with both indoor and outdoor seating. The same owners now operate Gaia Riverlodge in the Mountain Pine Ridge, so mainland-beach packages are offered. Honeymoon, fishing, diving, and other packages are also offered. Pros: charming collection of casitas on the beach; friendly staff and good management; postcard-pretty beach. Cons: restaurant and bar prices are steep; air-conditioning in some units doesn’t quite do the job. | Rooms from: BZ$663 | 5 miles (8 km) north of San Pedro, Beachfront | 226/5010, 223/0002 reservations line | www.matachica.com | 21 casitas, 2 2-bedroom villas, 1 3-bedroom house | Multiple meal plans.
Fodor’s Choice | Seascape Villas.
RENTAL | Six posh homes spread across 4 beachfront acres are among the island’s most exclusive properties. Each 3,200-square-foot villa has a sunken living room, slate floors, an outdoor garden with hot tub, and unobstructed views of the sea. The villas are privately owned and some are available for rent when the owners aren’t in residence. The same developer has another complex, Indigo, also on North Ambergris. Pros: deluxe private villas; sophisticated designs; stunning sea views. Cons: no restaurant on-site. | Rooms from: BZ$1035 | North Ambergris, 3½ miles (6 km) north of San Pedro, Beachfront | 226/2119, 888/753–5164 | www.seascapebelize.com | 6 beach houses.
Navigating Ambergris Caye
Since places around here lack proper addresses, here’s a list of hotels and restaurants in this area from north to south.
• Tranquility Bay Resort
• El Secreto
• Portofino
• La Perla del Caribe
• Matachica and Mambo
• Azul Resort and Rojo Bar
• Rendezvous
• Las Terrazas
• Seascape Villas
• Belizean Shores
• Coco Beach
• Capricorn
• El Pescador
• Aji
• Lazy Croc
• Grand Caribe
• Ak’bol
• Cocotal
• Palapa Bar
South of San Pedro
Banana Beach Resort.
RESORT | Original management has reclaimed Banana Beach, bringing it back to the casual, friendly, well-run, beachfront resort that it was for many years. The original section, built around an interior courtyard, has one-bedroom suites; a newer section has regular rooms at bargain prices, plus “flex suites” that expand from one to four bedrooms, depending on your needs. A fourth night is free on bookings of at least three nights, and an extra two nights are free on five-night stays, so rates are lower than they appear. Breakfast is included. Our favorites are the seafront suites in the newer section. There are two pools. The restaurant, El Divino (named after a beloved staffer who passed away), is a steak house and martini bar. Pros: recovering under original management; good value; friendly staff. Cons: some furnishings are a little dated; beach has a seawall. | Rooms from: BZ$262 | Coconut Dr., 1½ miles (2½ km) south of San Pedro | San Pedro | 226/3890, 877/288–1011 in U.S. and Canada | www.bananabeach.com | 28 rooms, 43 suites | Breakfast.
FAMILY | Caribbean Villas.
RESORT | It may not be as flashy as some of the newer resorts on the island, but Caribbean Villas, with its 2½ acres of gardens, a bird sanctuary, and lovely quiet beachfront, is a pleasant, affordable, and low-key alternative to the glitzier developments. There’s a pool and a beach bar that serves snacks and light breakfasts, and Sailsports Belize is on-site, offering sailing, windsurfing, and kitesurfing. Choose from a small studio to lofted suites for families. All but the studio have a sea view. The dock has two small artificial reefs. Minimum stay in-season is four nights. Pros: haven of quiet in developed area; good value: good beach. Cons: no full-service restaurant; some units could use updating. | Rooms from: BZ$231 | Seagrape Dr., 1 mile (1½ km) south of town | San Pedro | 226/2715, 866/290–6341 in U.S. and Canada | www.caribbeanvillashotel.com | 5 rooms, 9 suites | No meals.
Changes In Latitudes.
B&B/INN | A new owner has done good things with the first true B&B in San Pedro, adding new mattresses, a fridge in every room, new air-conditioners, and doing some refurbishing. The inn is near San Pedro’s restaurants and bars, but isn’t directly on the beach. Although they’re all on the small side, the rooms are clean and attractive. Rooms near the busy street could get a bit of noise. A full breakfast is served in the common room. Management can help arrange any tour or activity. Pros: good value; cheerful B&B atmosphere. Cons: smallish rooms; not on water; close to busy street. | Rooms from: BZ$251 | 36 Coconut Dr., ¼ mile (½ km) south of San Pedro | 226/2986 | www.ambergriscaye.com/latitudes | 6 rooms | Breakfast.
Corona del Mar Apartments and Hotel.
HOTEL | One of the best values on the island, the beachfront Corona del Mar with new pool has affordable rooms and ocean-view apartment suites with kitchens. Rates include a continental breakfast (basically just toast, coffee, and juice - if you want a big breakfast at a modest price go to George’s Kitchen across the street.) Free rum punch, fruit juice and bottled water are available all day. There’s a new swimming pool, and the hotel is right on the beach, within a brisk walk on the beach from downtown. It has one of the only elevators on the island, and most rooms are handicap-accessible. The hotel can book mainland tours and sea trips for you. Pros: top value; pleasant seafront rooms; new pool; friendly staff. Cons: not fancy; included breakfast is quite modest. | Rooms from: BZ$196 | Coconut Dr., 1 mile (1½ km) south of town | 226/2055, 800/520–8110 in U.S. and Canada | www.coronadelmarhotel.com | 12 rooms, 4 suites, 1 cottage | Breakfast.
Grand Colony Villas.
RENTAL | These are some of the more upscale condos on the island: two- and three-bedroom, two-bath apartments, ranging from 1,100 to more than 1,900 square feet, with tall ceilings, marble or hardwood floors, mahogany doors and cabinets, and luxurious furnishings. To top it all off, the beach here is about as good as it gets on Ambergris Caye. Pros: deluxe condo villas; beautifully finished and furnished; on a lovely beach. Cons: spendy; no restaurant on-site. | Rooms from: BZ$1088 | Coconut Dr., 1½ miles (3 km) south of town | San Pedro | 226/3739, 866/620–9521 in U.S. and Canada | www.grandcolonyvillas.com | 21 condo apartments | No meals.
Mata Rocks Resort.
RESORT | The squeaky-clean rooms at this intimate, midlevel hotel right on a nice stretch of beach, about a 30-minute walk or 10-minute bike ride from town, have sea views and breezes. There’s a small swimming pool. Mata Rocks has the quintessential thatch tropical beach bar, the Squirrel’s Nest, and you’re a short stroll away from several good restaurants. Bikes are complimentary. Rates include a continental breakfast and use of bicycles. Pros: small beachside resort; good value. Cons: no restaurant on-site. | Rooms from: BZ$316 | Coconut Dr., 1½ miles (2½ km) south of town | San Pedro | 226/2336, 888/628–2757 in U.S. and Canada | www.matarocks.com | 17 rooms | Breakfast.
The Palms Oceanfront Suites.
RENTAL | Stay here for the sea views, beachside vibe, and ultra-convenient location near town. The one- and two-bedroom apartments are spacious, with earth-tone furnishings and kitchens, including full-size fridges. The Palms is at the south edge of town, a short stroll away from most of the restaurants and activities in San Pedro, five minutes from the airport (airport noise is not an issue, though), and five minutes from the largest grocery on the island. The unpopular fee for Wi-Fi has been eliminated, and it’s now free. The tiny pool is in a shady spot at the back of the property and can be a little cool in winter. Don’t confuse this with the similarly named Royal Palms. Pros: comfortable beachfront apartments; convenient location near town; good management; next to best in-town beach. Cons: small, shaded pool; not as upscale as some of the island’s new luxe condo developments; no fitness room or bar/restaurant on-site; rates have crept up. | Rooms from: BZ$485 | Coconut Dr., at south edge of town | San Pedro | 226/3322 | www.belizepalms.com | 8 2-bedroom apartments, 5 1-bedroom apartments | No meals.
Pedro’s Hotel.
HOTEL | Gregarious, eccentric (and sometimes irascible) British expat Peter Lawrence opened the island’s only backpacker-style accommodations in 2003; then he opened a budget hotel across the street, along with a sports bar and pizza joint, which became a local expat hangout, and now he has added a new group of “deluxe but cheap” rooms. At Pedro’s Hotel, in high season you can get a “deluxe double” with king bed, private bath, cable TV, free Wi-Fi, and air-conditioning for around BZ$175. Regular rooms are BZ$142 including tax. Hostel beds at Pedro’s Inn Backpacker Hostel are BZ$22 per person (there are two single beds in each of 14 hostel rooms.) Both hotel and hostel guests have access to two swimming pools. Pros: Good value; handy to the bar; the inimitable owner; interesting mix of guests. Cons: Not on beach; a bit of a hike to town. | Rooms from: BZ$109 | Seagrape Dr., south of town | San Pedro | 226/3825 | www.pedroshotel.com | 44 hotel rooms and 14 hostel rooms | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | Pelican Reef Villas.
RENTAL | While listening to the pool’s trickling turquoise waterfall, it’s easy to believe you’ve stumbled upon a hidden tropical treasure; however, the faux cave is a swim-up bar, and Pelican Reef is only a little south (2½ miles or 4 km) of San Pedro’s bustle. Such sweet subterfuges have made this condotel one of the most popular on the island. Large alabaster three-story buildings with butter-yellow trim house the 24 two-bedroom and three-bedroom units. The very spacious units are tastefully decorated, with fully equipped kitchens, mahogany cabinets, granite countertops, and plush sleigh beds. Oceanfront unit have stunning views. The same owners operate Athens Gate, a 12-unit condotel of similar quality nearby that can be booked through Pelican Reef. Pros: well-run condo colony in quiet south-end location; luxurious accommodations; friendly staff; good beach area. Cons: no full-service restaurant on-site; at the far south end of most current development on the island; a lot of steps to climb to upper-level units. | Rooms from: BZ$804 | Coconut Dr., 2½ miles (4 km) south of town | San Pedro | 226/2352, 281/394–3739 U.S. reservations number | www.pelicanreefvillas.com | 24 condo apartments | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | Victoria House.
RESORT | With its bougainvillea-filled gardens, this property about 2 miles (3 km) south of San Pedro has the style and seclusion of a dignitary’s residence, if the dignitary lived on a stunning beach, loved good food and drink, and preferred to walk around barefoot. There are a variety of accommodations here, but our favorite is the stunning two-bedroom villas, some of the most luxurious accommodations in Belize. Victoria House has two swimming pools, a large one near the sea and a new infinity swimming pool with a black marble waterfall. In the colonial-style house with airy verandas and tile walkways are three ample suites with mahogany furnishings and the hotel’s restaurant, La Palmilla. Food is also served poolside, with gorgeous views of the grounds and the sea, in your room, and at Admiral Nelson’s Beach Bar. A full meal plan is available. You have a wide choice of other accommodations here, from standard rooms to a five-bedroom house. Service is always spot-on. Pros: Quiet and lovely grounds away from bustle of town; variety of gorgeous beachside accommodations; idyllic spot for breakfast, lunch, or dinner outside overlooking the pool and beach. Cons: Not a budget spot. | Rooms from: BZ$478 | Coconut Dr., 2 miles (3 km) south of town | 226/2067, 800/247–5159 in U.S. and Canada, 713/344–2340 U.S. number | www.victoria-house.com | 14 rooms, 4 casitas, 3 suites, 8 villas | Multiple meal plans.
Villas at Banyan Bay.
RENTAL | If you enjoy little luxuries like a whirlpool bath in your room, this red tile–roofed complex about 1½ miles (2½ km) south of town may suit you splendidly. You won’t feel cramped here - stylishly furnished two-bedroom condos with verandas overlooking the sea have cathedral ceilings with tropical hardwoods. The kid-friendly pool is one of the island’s largest, and Mar de Tumbo tops the short list of the island’s best beaches. The on-site restaurant, Rico’s Bar & Grill, has one of the island’s most beautiful seaside restaurant settings. Sadly, several years of management by hired hands from a bank that foreclosed on the property has had an impact, but the property is still a enjoyable place to stay. Pros: well-maintained two- and three-bedroom condos, ideal for families or two couples; one of island’s best beaches. Cons: restaurant is expensive; tribulations of bank foreclosure and operation by various hired hands has taken its toll. | Rooms from: BZ$600 | Beachfront, Coconut Dr., 1½ miles (2½ km) south of town | San Pedro | 226/3739, 866/352–1163 in U.S. | www.banyanbay.com | 42 suites | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | Xanadu Island Resort.
RESORT | Billed as the “world’s first monolithic dome resort,” Xanadu has thatch-roof domes, creating a beach resort that can withstand winds up to 300 mph while providing a delightful seafront vacation. There’s a mélange of studio, one-, two-, and three-bedroom units. All are attractively furnished in earth tones and have modern amenities. Palm trees surrounding the pool make it feel nicely tropical; there’s also a 350-foot pier and a stretch of sand, but it has a seawall. You also get free access to bikes, canoes, and kayaks. Minimum three-night stay. Pros: friendly management; attractive suites; tropically perfect pool; convenient location. Cons: seawall at beach; no restaurant or bar on-site. | Rooms from: BZ$468 | Sea Grape Dr., 1 mile (1½ km) south of town | San Pedro | 226/2814, 866/351–4752 | www.xanaduresort-belize.com | 19 suites | No meals.
Cayo Espanto
Fodor’s Choice | Cayo Espanto.
ALL-INCLUSIVE | A group of seven deluxe beachfront villas is all there is on the small private island in the bay on the backside of Ambergris Caye, and the entire island staff is dedicated to giving you a memorable experience. On arrival you’re met with cold drinks and a choice of hot or cold face towels, a welcome bottle of champagne, and deluxe snacks. There’s a butler on call to take care of your every whim, and a personal chef to help you plan your meals. The villas come complete with splash pool (one villa is built over the water has a glass window on the floor to view sealife but no pool), Egyptian cotton linens, and your own private staff. Several villas have walls that literally fold back to let you enjoy the astounding Caribbean view. After you plan your day’s meals, (we loved the grilled lobster with an incredible chocolate dessert) they are delivered to a waterside table or dock by your villa. The dinner setting is carefully prepared and romantically lit with luminaries. For all this intensely personal care you’ll pay a small fortune. Rates include meals and most beverages. Some guests, either honeymooners or rich venture capitalists, arrive by Astrum Helicopters from Belize City. Pros: over-the-top luxury and service; beautiful views; your every wish is yours immediately (for a price, of course). Cons: island is on the back side of Ambergris Caye, not on the main Caribbean Sea. | Rooms from: BZ$3883 | 3 miles (5 km) west of Ambergris Caye | Cayo Espanto | 888/861–4282, 910/323–8355 in U.S. | www.aprivateisland.com | 7 villas | All-inclusive.
Nightlife
San Pedro has the most active nightlife scene in Belize, but, still, don’t expect Miami’s South Beach. A few in-town spots such as Fido’s have live music. At Jaguar’s Temple nightclub, the action starts after 10 or 11 and often goes until almost daybreak. (Be careful going back to your hotel in the middle of the night after sampling rums—take a taxi if possible.) There are plenty of spots just to have a cold one, including some classic beach and pier bars like BC’s, Tackle Box, Wet Willy’s, and Palapa Bar, or tonier spots like Rojo Bar. There’s a small casino at Captain Morgan’s on North Ambergris. Many hotels have bars that mostly draw their own guests, but anyone, staying there or not, is welcome. Among the better resort bars are those at Victoria House, Banana Beach Resort, Spindrift (with a hilarious betting game on Thursday involving live chickens and where they poop), Pedro’s Hotel, Mata Rocks (which has a classic small thatch beach bar), Matachica, and Ramon’s Village. Karaoke is big in Belize, and some bars and clubs in San Pedro have karaoke nights, which are as much for locals as visitors. In late January and early February, singer Jerry Jeff Walker holds “Camp Belize,” two weeklong events in San Pedro during which Walker puts on shows for his loyal fans.
Bars and Clubs
BC’s Beach Bar.
BC’s Beach Bar is a popular seafront bar and hangout at the south edge of town. | Beachfront, just south of SunBreeze Hotel | San Pedro | 226/3289.
Fido’s.
Under a giant seaside thatch palapa, Fido’s is usually jumping and has live music some nights starting around 9 pm. Truth be known, Fido’s is a living on its reputation a bit. Bar food now is so-so, service can be spotty, but the beer is cold, and the setting is still fun. | Barrier Reef Dr. | San Pedro | 226/2056 | www.fidosbelize.com.
Jaguar’s Temple.
Jaguar’s Temple is San Pedro’s largest dance club. You can party here on weekends until the wee hours. | Barrier Reef Dr. and Pelican St., across from Central Park | San Pedro | 226/4077 | www.jaguarstempleclub.com | Thurs.–Sat. 9 pm–4 am.
Palapa Bar and Grill.
The setting and festive atmosphere at this popular thatch-roof bar at the end of a pier are what draw the crowds here, not the food (although the sandwiches, burgers, and seafood aren’t bad for bar food). The breezy two-story palapa at the end of a pier, about ½ mile (1 km) north of the bridge, has stunning views of the sea and reef by day; by night, the colorful bar lighting lends a festive air. Bring a bathing suit and jump in the sea beside the pier (there are handy inner tubes). The Palapa doesn’t rock all night, though—it usually closes around 9 pm. | Beachfront, North Ambergris | 226/2528 | www.palapabarandgrill.com | Daily 10–9.
Pedro’s Sports Bar & Pizzeria.
If you’re up for a cold drink and pizza and watching sports on large-screen TVs, Pedro’s is your spot. It attracts mostly expats and visitors. There are poker games some nights, and karaoke on Thursday. The decor runs to walls covered with hundreds of Jägermeister bottles. | Seagrape Dr., south of town | San Pedro | 226/3825, 206/2198 | www.pedroshotel.com.
Road Kill Bar.
This popular roadside bar serves a wide variety of beers (for Belize) and, despite the name, also grills a good hamburger. Karaoke on Wednesday nights. | Coconut Dr., about ¼ mile (½ km) from south edge of town, San Pedro | San Pedro | Daily 4 pm–midnight.
Rojo Beach Bar.
This stunning beachfront bar on North Ambergris is a sophisticated, yet casual, romantic place to sip a Shark Bite (light rum, coconut rum, Meyer’s rum, mango juice and pineapple juice) or a frozen mojito. Great pizzas and light meals. | 5 miles (8 km) north of town, Beachfront, North Ambergris Caye | 226/4012 | www.rojolounge.com | Tues.–Sat.
Tackle Box Bar & Grill.
The motto of this burgers-and-beer waterfront spot is “Lunch all day—party all night.” The Tackle Box, on a pier in the middle of town, is one of the island’s most popular bars, attracting as many as 500 patrons on weekends. Pub fare such as wings and burgers is served. | Beachfront on pier | San Pedro | 226/4313 | www.tackleboxbarandgrill.com | Closed Mon.
Wahoo’s Lounge.
On the odd side of the nightlife spectrum is the Chicken Drop, held on Thursday nights at Wahoo’s Lounge (formerly Pier Lounge) beachfront at the Spindrift Hotel. Bet on a numbered square, and if the chicken poops on your square, you win the pot, which can get up to around BZ$1,000. | At Spindrift Hotel, Beachfront, Barrier Reef Dr., near Buccaneer St. | San Pedro | 226/2002 | Daily noon–midnight; chicken drop starts around 6 pm Thurs.
Wet Willy’s Cantina.
Wet Willy’s is a wood-paneled, thatch-roof bar at the end of a 340-foot pier at the north end of town. There’s indoor and outdoor seating, with live music some nights. Under new management in 2012, the boathouse bar began focusing more on food, offering smoked barbecue chicken, pork, and other meats. | At Wet Willy’s pier, Beachfront, Boca del Rio area | San Pedro | 226/4136 | www.wetwillysbelize.com | Bar open daily 11 am–midnight; food service Tues.–Sat. 11:30–9.
Casino
Captain Morgan’s Retreat Casino.
The small casino at Captain Morgan’s Retreat, a time-share resort, is billed as “Las Vegas–style” with about 40 slot and video poker machines, live table games, poker tournaments, and a full bar. It’s currently the only true casino on the island. | 3 miles (5 km) north of the bridge, Captain Morgan’s Retreat, North Ambergris Caye | 226/2207, 888/653 in U.S. and Canada | www.captainmorgans.com.
Movie Theater
Paradise Theater.
The Paradise Theater is part of the troubled Reef Village condo and timeshare development, though it is now under new management. Here you can watch first-run or near-first-run movies in air-conditioned comfort and with Dolby 5.1 sound for as little as BZ$5. The theater, which has 300- and 150-seat rooms, is also used for live shows. If you’re thirsty, there’s a bar. TIP If you’re staying in town or south and don’t want to pay the BZ$10 fee to take your golf cart across the bridge, you can park it on the south side of the bridge and walk over (no toll for pedestrians), as the theater is a just a few hundred feet from the bridge. | Golf cart path, North Ambergris, just across the bridge near the Reef Village development | San Pedro | 636/8123.
Shopping
Barrier Reef Drive, formerly sandy Front Street, but sadly now paved with concrete cobblestones, is San Pedro’s Street of Shopping Dreams—it’s lined with souvenir shops complemented by restaurants, small hotels, banks, and other anchors of tourist life on the island. Stores with more local appeal are on Pescador Drive (Middle Street) and Angel Coral Street (Back Street), especially at the north end of town. Barrier Reef Drive is closed to golf carts and vehicles on weekends, starting around 6 pm Friday, and local vendors set up shop selling locally made jewelry and wood carvings (they’re also out during the week in high season). Except for these items, few are made on the island. Most of the souvenir shops sell crafts from Guatemala and Mexico, along with carved wood and slate from the mainland.
Belizean hot sauces, such as Marie Sharp’s and Gallon Jug’s Lissette Sauce, along with local rums, make good souvenirs; they’re cheaper in grocery stores (try Pescador Drive and Angel Coral Street) than in gift shops. To avoid worsening the plight of endangered sea life, avoid buying souvenirs made from black coral or turtle shell.
Vendors on the beach occasionally try to sell you carvings, jewelry, Guatemalan fabrics, and sometimes drugs, but they’re not pushy.
Belizean Arts.
The first art gallery in Belize, established more than 20 years ago by Londoner Lyndsey Hackston, Belizean Arts today has the largest selection of art by Belizeans and Belize residents of any gallery in the country, with paintings by Walter Castillo, Pen Cayetano, Nelson Young, Leo Vasquez, Piva, Eduardo García, Curvin Mitchell, Jorge Landero, and others. The gallery also carries art by Cuban and other Caribbean artists, along with ceramics, jewelry, and other crafts. | Fido’s Courtyard, Barrier Reef Dr. | San Pedro | 226/3019 | www.belizeanarts.com.
D & G Fine Jewelry and Art.
This long-established shop crafts locally made jewelry. We encourage you not to buy items made of black coral, because it is highly endangered. | Across from Super Buy grocery,17 Angel Coral St., aka Back St. | San Pedro | 226/2069 | ambergriscaye.com/DandG.
Graniel’s Dreamland Construction & Cabinet Shop.
Graniel’s Dreamland, the showroom for Armando Graniel’s beautiful carpentry, has high-quality wood chairs, tables, and other furniture and furnishings, made from Belizean tropical hardwoods, some of which the shop will break down and package for carrying back on the airplane or for shipping. | Pescador Dr. | San Pedro | 226/2938 | www.granielsdreamlandbelize.com.
Island Supermarket.
Island Supermarket has the largest selection of groceries, liquor, and beer, along with hot sauces and other Belizean-produced items, though it’s not the cheapest place in San Pedro. Grocery prices in San Pedro generally are 20% to 75% higher than in supermarkets in the United States, except for a few items, such as rum, produced in Belize, and Island Supermarket’s prices are high even by San Pedro standards. | Coconut Dr., south of town, across from Bowen & Bowen Belikin distributors | San Pedro | 226/2972.
Marina’s Store.
Marina’s Store about 1 mile (1½ km) south of town has good prices for groceries but only a small selection. | Seagrape Dr., about 1 mile (1½km) south of town | San Pedro | 226/3647.
Mata Grande Grocery.
This little grocery serves residents and condo guests on North Ambergris. You can order and pay online, and Mata Grande will deliver groceries to your vacation home rental or condo north of the Boca del Rio bridge. | 4½miles (7½km) north of the bridge, North Ambergris | 629/7411 | www.matagrandegrocery.com.
San Pedro Supermarket.
One of the less expensive places to buy groceries is San Pedro Supermarket. | Lagoon St., at traffic circle at north end of town off Pescador Dr. | San Pedro | 226/3446.
Super Buy.
Many local residents buy their groceries at Super Buy, because of lower prices. | Angel Coral St., aka Back St. | San Pedro | 226/4667.
Toucan Gift Shops.
For gaudy geegaws and unabashedly touristy souvenirs, the Toucan Gift Shops, including Toucan Too, all sporting the bright green, yellow, and red Toucan logo, are hard to miss. | Barrier Reef Dr. | San Pedro | 226/3263.
Wine De Vine.
Wine De Vine has the best selection of wines on the island, many from Chile and Argentina, and imported cheeses, at prices (due to import taxes) roughly double the cost in the United States. | Coconut Dr., next to Island Supermarket | San Pedro | 226/3430 | www.winedevine.com | Closed Sun.
Sports and the Outdoors
Tennis
The San Pedro Family Fitness Club.
The San Pedro Family Fitness Club has two hard-surfaced outdoor tennis courts, along with a large swimming pool and a fully equipped air-conditioned gym open to the public. Day, weekly, and monthly passes available. | ½ mile (1 km) south of town | San Pedro | From town, go south on Coconut Dr. until you reach Crazy Canucks and Road Kill bars, at corner of Coconut and Hurricane Sts. Turn west toward lagoon. Go 3 blocks to Fitness Club. | 226/4749 | www.sanpedrofitness.com.
Caye Caulker
5 miles (8 km) south of Ambergris Caye, 18 miles (29 km) northeast of Belize City.
A half-hour away from San Pedro by water taxi and sharing essentially the same reef and sea ecosystems, Caye Caulker is very different from its big sister island, Ambergris Caye. It’s smaller (with a population of around 1,500), less developed, way more relaxed, and less expensive.
Caye Caulker has long been a stop on the Central America backpacker trail, and it remains Belize’s most popular budget destination, although more upscale lodgings are opening and the island now has several condo developments. Still, flowers outnumber cars 1,000 to 1 (golf carts, bicycles, and bare feet are the preferred means of transportation).
As you might guess from all the “no shirt, no shoes, no problem” signs at the bars, the living is relatively easy here. This is the kind of place where many of the listings in the telephone directory give addresses like “near football field.” However, Caye Corker, as it’s sometimes called in Belize (or Cayo Hicaco in Spanish, a reference to the coco plums on the island), isn’t immune to change. Many hotels have added air-conditioning, and the island now has cybercafés and several upmarket restaurants and fairly upscale hotels. Still, Caye Caulker remains the epitome of laid-back, and as development continues at a fevered pace on neighboring Ambergris Caye, Caulker’s simpler charms exercise even more appeal to those who seek an affordable and relaxing island experience.
For those used to researching and booking everything online, here’s a caution about Caye Caulker: As is common with budget destinations, some of the tour operators and cheaper lodging choices on Caulker don’t have websites. In fact, some tour operators work from a spot on the beach and have only a cell phone, if that. Those that are online often have websites that are done on the cheap, with poor graphics and servers that are down intermittently. Consider it part of the charm of Caye Caulker.
Getting Here and Around
Other than a few emergency vehicles and several private cars, there are few cars on Caye Caulker. Most locals and visitors get around the island’s sand streets on foot, although you can rent a golf cart or bike. (Golf-cart taxis charge around BZ$5–BZ$10 per person to most destinations in the village.)
Like Ambergris Caye, Caye Caulker can be used as a base for exploring part of the mainland. It’s only about 45 minutes by water taxi, or 15 minutes by air, to Belize City. Two water-taxi companies now offer daily service between Caye Caulker and Chetumal, Mexico. Tours run from Caulker to the Mayan ruins at Lamanai and Altun Ha, and other tours go to the Belize Zoo and to the Caves Branch River for cave tubing.
Caye Caulker is a fairly small island, only 5 miles (8 km) long and a little over 1 mile (2 km) wide at the widest point—most of the island is only a few hundred feet wide. The island itself is divided by “the Split,” a small channel of water separating the north area and the south area. The area north of the Split is mostly mangroves and lagoons, accessible only by boat, while the only village occupies most of the area south of the Split. From the Split to the airstrip, which is at the south end of the island, is about a mile (2 km). Directions in the village usually use the main public pier or dock, where you come in on the Caye Caulker Water Taxi boat, as the reference point. (To confuse things, another water taxis comes into a different pier near the original public pier.) Things are either north of the main pier or south of the main public pier. The village has only three main streets: Front, Middle, and Back running north and south; Back Street just runs on the south side of the village. These are the names everyone uses, but maps may give different names: Hicaco Avenue for Middle Street, Avenida Lagosta for Middle Street, and Avenida Mangle for Back Street. The east-west street between the public pier and the lagoon-side dock is called Center Street or Dock Street or Calle al Sol (sometimes Calle del Sol).
All the streets on the island are hard-packed sand. On the east side you can also walk along the beachfront. Generally, the north end of the village bustles more than the south end, which is primarily residential, and it also is home to the airstrip.
Timing
Caye Caulker’s low-key charms take a while to fully appreciate. Stay here a day, and you’ll complain that there’s nothing to do. Stay a week, and you’ll probably tell everyone how much you hate overdeveloped islands like Ambergris.
Safety
Several high-profile muggings, rapes, and stabbing of visitors have brought Caulker unwanted attention. Despite these crimes, and the general disreputable vibe of some Rasta-phonians who hang out at bars or call out to passing tourists, Caye Caulker remains one of the safest places in Belize. Just don’t bring the barfly back to your room or wander around dark alleys at night. Also, keep your camera, wallet, and other possessions close to you, especially in cheaper hotels.
Water Activities and Tours
When you see the waves breaking on the Barrier Reef just a few hundred yards from the shore, boats full of eager snorkelers and divers, and the colorful sails of windsurfers dashing back and forth in front of the island, you know you’ve come to a good place for water sports and activities. You can dive, snorkel, and fish the same areas of the sea and reef as you can from San Pedro, but usually for a little less dough. One area where Caulker suffers by comparison with its neighboring island is in the quality of its beaches. Caulker’s beaches, though periodically nourished by dredging to replenish the sand, are modest at best, mostly narrow ribbons of sand with shallow water near the shore and, in places, a mucky sea bottom and lots of sea grass. You can, however, have an enjoyable swim at “the Split,” a channel originally cut through the island by Hurricane Hattie in 1961 and expanded over the years, at the north end of the village, or from the end of piers.
Fishing
Caye Caulker was a fishing village before it was a visitor destination. From Caulker you can fly-fish for bonefish or permit in the grass flats behind the island, troll for barracuda or grouper inside the reef, or charter a boat to take you to blue water outside the reef for deep-sea fishing. Ambergris Caye offers more options for chartering boats for deep-sea fishing than Caye Caulker. For a guide and boat for flats and reef fishing, you’ll pay around BZ$600–BZ$700 a day for one or two people. If you’re a do-it-yourself type, you can fish off the piers or in the flats. Anglers Abroad has a small fly-fishing and tackle shop where you can rent fishing gear, if you didn’t bring your own. Blue marlin weighing more than 400 pounds have been caught beyond the reef off Caye Caulker, along with big sailfish, pompano, and kingfish. If you can find a charter on Caulker for blue-water deep-sea fishing, you’ll pay BZ$1,000–BZ$1,200 and up for a full day’s fishing for up to four people. Remember, you now need a fishing license to fish in Belize waters, except from shore or piers. Your guide or hotel can help you get a license.
Fodor’s Choice | Anglers Abroad.
Haywood Curry, a transplanted Texan, and his crew run all types of fishing trips, starting with half-day trips at around BZ$500 for two persons and, “for the adventurous” two- or three-day camping and fishing expeditions, with camping on a remote caye. Anglers Abroad, associated with Seadreams Hotel, also has a fly-fishing and tackle shop. | At Seadreams Hotel near the Split, Hattie St. | 226/0303 | www.anglersabroad.com.
Porfelio “Piggy” Guzman.
Porfelio “Piggy” Guzman is one of the best-known fishing guides on the island, and he may charge a little more than others. | Calle Almendro | 226/0152.
Tsunami Adventures.
Tsunami Adventures offers reef and flats fishing trips starting at BZ$500 for a half day for two persons, including boat and guide, or BZ$700 for a full day, both inclusive of tax. Your guide will be a local fisherman, Rolly Rosado. | Front St. | 226/0462 | www.tsunamiadventures.com.
Manatee Spotting
Several operators do boat trips to see West Indian manatees. The 9,000-acre Swallow Caye Wildlife Sanctuary, established in 2002 in great part due to the efforts of Chocolate Heredia, who sadly passed away in 2013, and his wife Annie Seashore, is home to many of these endangered mammals. It’s just 10 minutes by boat from Caye Caulker. It’s illegal in Belize to get into the water with the gentle sea cows, but a few tour operators unfortunately do permit it. Half-day tours typically cost around BZ$75–BZ$100 per person, including the BZ$10 sanctuary admission fee. Some stop at Goff’s Caye, which has excellent snorkeling.
Fodor’s Choice | Carlos Tours.
Carlos Tours, one of the most recommended tour operators on Caye Caulker, runs snorkeling trips with stops at some of the best snorkel spots near Caye Caulker, and also at Hol Chan Marine Reserve and other places, along with manatee-spotting tours. Prices vary according to the destination but range from around BZ$80 to BZ$175 per person. | Front St., at Calle del Sol | 226/0058 | carlosayala10@hotmail.com.
Red Mangrove Eco Adventures.
Red Mangrove Eco Adventures offers “ecologically sensitive” manatee-watching tours—no swimming with the manatees. It also offers other sea and inland tours. | Front St. | 226/0669, 607/1440 | www.mangrovebelize.com.
Sailing
A few small sailboats offer sailing and snorkeling trips to nearby areas. One company, Raggamuffin Tours, also offers multiday combination sailing, snorkeling, and camping trips to Placencia.
Charters, Lessons, and Equipment
Blackhawk Sailing.
Formerly Seahawk Sailing, Blackhawk Sailing offers snorkeling, overnight camping, and charter trips on a 30-foot sailboat captained by “Big Steve.” | Front St., next to De Real Macaw | 607/0323 | www.blackhawksailingtours.com.
Raggamuffin Tours.
Raggamuffin Tours has day sails and sunset and moonlight sails. A full-day snorkeling tour is BZ$140 including marine reserve fees, full lunch, and snorkel gear. Two-night/three-day camping and sailing trips to Placencia, with nights at Tobacco Caye and Ranguana Caye, are BZ$700 per person one-way. These normally depart Caye Caulker twice a week, on Tuesday and Friday, weather permitting. Rates at Christmas/New Years are higher. | Front St., north of main public pier, near Split | 226/0348 | www.raggamuffintours.com.
Scuba Diving and Snorkeling
Hol Chan Marine Reserve at the southern tip of Ambergris Caye is a popular destination for snorkel and dive trips from Caye Caulker. At Hol Chan you can swim with nurse sharks and stingrays and see hundreds of tropical fish, some quite large due to the no-fishing restrictions in the reserve. On the way, your boat may be followed by a pod of frolicking dolphins, and you may spot sea turtles or even a manatee. Larger boats from Caulker also go to Lighthouse Reef, including the Blue Hole, and Turneffe atolls.
The Caye Caulker Marine Reserve north and east of Caye Caulker, with its coral canyons, is a favorite of divers, especially for night dives. Caulker has its own mini version of San Pedro’s Shark-Ray Alley, called Shark-Ray Village.
Charters, Lessons, and Equipment
A plethora of dive and snorkel operators offer reef tours (some of them are “cowboys”—unaffiliated and unreliable—so make sure you use a reputable company). Plan on spending about BZ$40–BZ$60 for a snorkel trip around the island or BZ$70–BZ$100 for a six-hour snorkel trip to Hol Chan Marine Reserve.
Local two-tank reef dives typically run about BZ$150, and those to Hol Chan or other nearby areas cost about BZ$160–BZ$180. Day trips to Lighthouse or Turneffe atoll, with three dives, cost around BZ$250–BZ$300. If you stop at Half Moon Caye, there’s an additional BZ$80 park fee. At Hol Chan, the park fee is BZ$20, and at Caye Caulker Marine Reserve, BZ$10. These park fees, which apply for divers and snorkelers, are sometimes not included in the quoted prices for dive and snorkel trips. The 12.5% Goods and Services Tax (GST) may—or may not—be included in the price you’re quoted. Ask, to be sure.
Anwar Tours.
Anwar Tours, operated by brothers Erico and Javier Novelo, runs snorkel trips to see manatees at Swallow Caye, with a visit at St. Georges Caye, and stops at three other good snorkel sites. Rate for this full-day trip is BZ$170. A night snorkel trip is BZ$100, and other snorkel tour rates start at BZ$50. Anwar, like other tour operators, provides various snorkel and land tour options, depending on demand. Stops and length of trips vary depending on weather and sea conditions. | Hicaco Ave. | 226/0327 | www.anwartours.page.tl.
Belize Diving Services.
Established in 1978, Belize Diving Services has been around long enough to know the best spots. They train around 500 divers every year, with a full open water course running around BZ$800. A two-tank local reef dive is BZ$170, and a one-tank BZ$90, not including gear rental, 12.5% tax, and BZ$10 reserve admission fee. A two-tank Turneffe North (not Elbow) trip is BZ$220 plus tax and gear rental. A full-day Blue Hole/Lighthouse Reef trip is BZ$450 plus tax and gear rental, but does include lunch. | Chapoose St., near soccer field and Iguana Reef Inn | 226/0143 | www.belizedivingservices.net.
Frenchie’s Diving Services.
If you’re looking for someone to take you out to the reef for diving, or to the Blue Hole, Frenchie’s Diving Services is a respected local operator. Frenchie’s leaves early for the Blue Hole, to try to be the first boat there. The three-dive, full-day trip, including gear, breakfast, lunch, BZ$80 park fee, and 12.5% tax is BZ$450 per person for divers, and BZ$249 for those snorkeling only. Three dives at Turneffe Elbow are BZ$337 including lunch. Half-day reef two-tank diving trips are around BZ$230, including tax and marine reserve fee. Four-day open water certifications courses run BZ$800. If visiting in high season, best book ahead because Frenchie’s is popular. Blue Hole trips are scheduled every other day. | Beachfront off Front St., on dock north of main public pier | 226/0234 | www.frenchiesdivingbelize.com.
Raggamuffin Tours.
Go out for a snorkel on a sailboat with Raggamuffin Tours, which goes to Hol Chan for around BZ$140 for a full-day snorkel trip, including the park entrance fee, lunch, and booze. | Front St. | 226/0348 | www.raggamuffintours.com.
Windsurfing and Kitesurfing
With brisk easterly winds most of the year, Caye Caulker is one of Belize’s premier centers for windsurfing. The island gets winds over 12 knots most days from November to July. The best windsurfing is in the morning and afternoon, with lulls around midday. In the late winter and spring, winds frequently hit 20 knots or more.
Charters, Lessons, and Equipment
KiteXplorer.
KiteXplorer offers beginning and advanced kitesurfing lessons. A three-hour introduction to kitesurfing costs BZ$360 including equipment and insurance. A basic course over three or four days is BZ$960. If you already are an inexperienced kitesurfer, supervised equipment rental is BZ$90 an hour. KiteXplorer also sells equipment. | Beachfront | 635/4967 | www.kitexplorer.com.
Where to Eat
Once your dining choice on Caulker was fish, fish, or fish, but now you can also enjoy Italian, Mexican, and Chinese, as well as wonderful fresh conch and lobster and, of course, fish. Several restaurants serve wholesome natural foods and vegetarian dishes. Prices for meals here are generally lower than on other islands, and even a lobster dinner is usually less than BZ$45. The cheapest way to eat on the island is to buy grilled fish, chicken, lobster, and other items from the folks with barbecue grills who set up along Front Street and elsewhere. Though you should use good judgment, the food is almost always well prepared and safe to eat. Locals also sell meat pies, tacos, tamales, cakes, and other homemade items at very low prices. Do what local people do and buy your snacks and some of your meals from these street vendors.
Amor y Café.
CAFÉ | This is the best spot on Caye Caulker for a warm smile, coffee (including espresso and lattes), and breakfast. Sit on the front porch, do some people-watching on Front Street, and try the fruit with granola and homemade yogurt, or the yummy fresh-baked breads. | Average main: BZ$12 | 15 Front St., 1 block south of main pier | 610/2397 | No credit cards | Closed Mon.
Coco Loco Café in Caribbean Colors.
CAFÉ | For a good cup of coffee, a really good cup of coffee, this little café cum art gallery and gift shop in the heart of Front Street is the place to go. It’s owned by an expat artist, Lee Vanderwalker, who has lived on the island for many years. The café, called Coco Loco, also serves a few breakfast items such as bagels (rare in Belize) and pancakes, but coffee is the thing. | Average main: BZ$10 | Front St. | 668/7205 | www.caribbean-colors.com | Closed Thurs. No dinner.
Femi’s.
SEAFOOD | Popular with younger travelers, Femi’s is on the beach, with no walls to spoil the view. Frankly, the view is better than the food, but try the Mexican dishes at lunch, or the smoothies any time. In the evening, Femi’s is more of a bar. | Average main: BZ$16 | Beachfront, just south of the main public pier, Beachfront | 622/3469.
FAMILY | Glenda’s Café.
CAFÉ | The menu here is on a chalkboard, short and sweet, and you place your order at the window. At breakfast, when this café is most popular, you can get a hearty breakfast of eggs, bacon, beans, homemade cinnamon roll (only BZ$1) or johnnycakes and fresh orange juice for a pittance. It opens at 7 am daily except Sunday (though sometimes it’s closed on other days, because this is Caye Caulker) and get there early to get a cinnamon bun. | Average main: BZ$8 | Back St., north of post office | 226/0148 | No credit cards | Closed Sun. No dinner.
Fodor’s Choice | Habaneros.
SEAFOOD | The most expensive dining spot on Caye Caulker, Haberneros is also a place that tends to generate mixed reactions: One diner goes ga-ga over the coconut encrusted snapper with mixed fruits and loves the dramatic lighting, while another guest sniffs at the combination of pork topped with crab and thinks the restaurant is too dark. Chef-owner Darren Casson hits for the fences with some of his dishes, and he doesn’t always connect, with too many competing flavors and over-the-top presentations, but for a splurge on Caye Caulker this is your most interesting, if conflicted, choice. Just be aware that with drinks, appetizers, dessert, tip, and taxes (Haberneros doesn’t include the 12.5% GST in the menu price), you’ll face a hefty check, at least for Caye Caulker. And you could be one of those who just don’t care for Habaneros. | Average main: BZ$40 | Front St., due west from main public pier | 226/0487 | Dinner only; closed Thurs.
Rainbow Grill & Bar.
SEAFOOD | To catch the sea breezes, the Rainbow is built out over the water. Seafood of course is the thing here— our favorites are the grilled or fried fish dishes. There are burgers and fajitas, too, along with several vegetarian dishes. Prices are moderate. This place is always buzzing. | Average main: BZ$20 | On beachfront mid-way between main public pier and the Split | 226/0281 | Closed Sun.–Mon.
Fodor’s Choice | Rose’s Grill & Bar.
SEAFOOD | This little restaurant has some of the best word of mouth on the island, and the tables on the porch and inside are often packed. The specialty is seafood, and it’s all fresh. As you arrive you pick out your snapper, grouper, barracuda, lobster, or other seafood from the fresh selection displayed, and then it’s grilled in front of the restaurant. If we had a gripe, it would be that the seafood is more expensive than most on the island, but it’s sure tasty! | Average main: BZ$35 | Calle del Sol (Center St.) at Front St., behind Habaneros | 226/0407 | www.rosesgrillandbar.com | No lunch May–Oct.
Fodor’s Choice | Sandros Piccola Cucina.
ITALIAN | After being closed for awhile, Sandros has reopened in a new location to almost unanimously rave reviews. At dinner, you’ll love their honest, authentic Italian food such as carbonara spaghetti, lasagna, seafood ravioli, and lobster linguini with a choice of sauces. The Italian owner is friendly and gregarious, and as you enter you can watch the food being prepared in the open kitchen, though the seating is in a garden patio. There’s a limited wine list. | Average main: BZ$26 | Pasero St., short distance from Atlantic Bank | sandros.belize@gmail.com | No credit cards | Closed Wed.
FAMILY | Syd’s.
LATIN AMERICAN | If you ask a local resident for a restaurant recommendation, chances are you’ll get a vote for Syd’s, in an old white frame house on Middle Street. It serves Belizean favorites like beans and rice, stew chicken, garnaches, and tostadas, along with (in-season) lobster and conch at prices lower than you’ll pay at most other eateries. The fried chicken here is the absolute best on the island, and a bargain for a big serving with sides for less than BZ$10. | Average main: BZ$14 | Middle St. at Aventurera St. | 226/0294 | Closed Sun.
Wish Willie’s.
SEAFOOD | At Wish Willie’s you eat on picnic tables in the sandy backyard of the owner, Maurice Moore, and he will tell you what’s on the menu for the day. It may be fresh fish, lobster, or chicken. In most cases, the prices are very low, and the rum drinks cost less than almost anywhere else on the island. You may have to share a table with other guests, and the service is sometimes slow, but keep in mind the money you’re saving and the good time you’re having! | Average main: BZ$18 | Park St., off Front St. due west of Frenchies | 660/7194 | No credit cards | Usually closed Sep.–Oct.
Where to Stay
Caye Caulker has more than 40 hotels, mostly small places with just a few rooms. The older budget hotels are mostly clapboard, with fans but no air-conditioning, and usually without TV or room phones. If they’re not on the water where they can catch the prevailing sea breezes, they are often burning hot during the day. Hotels built in the last decade or so are generally constructed of concrete, and most newer properties have air-conditioning. There are only a handful of swimming pools on the island.
Barefoot Beach Belize.
HOTEL | This little seafront hotel, about a 10 to 15-minute walk to the main part of the village, has three basic rooms and a suite set in a pastel blue, concrete building with pink and yellow trim, along with three cottages. Don’t confuse this place with the similarly named Barefoot Caribe. Pros: choice of accommodations; pier is nice spot to enjoy the water. Cons: short walk or bike ride from the south to main restaurant area; some units need upgrading; no pool. | Rooms from: BZ$150 | Beachfront, south of main public pier | 226/0205 | www.barefootbeachbelize.com | 3 rooms, 1 suite, 3 cottages | No meals.
Caye Caulker Condos.
RENTAL | If you want a full kitchen to prepare some of your own meals, these moderately priced condos with all the mod-cons including a pool are a good choice. The units, just across Front Street from the sea, are done in cheerful tropical colors and have tile floors, full air-conditioning, Wi-Fi, and private verandas facing the water. If you don’t mind climbing stairs, ask for a second-floor corner unit - the view is better. Bikes are complimentary. Pros: pleasant small apartments with kitchens; good location near water and most restaurants; swimming pool; good value. Cons: units are not particularly large. | Rooms from: BZ$216 | Front St., Corner of Calle Almendro, near Split | 226/0072 | www.cayecaulkercondos.com | 8 apartments | No meals.
Caye Caulker Plaza Hotel.
HOTEL | This 32-room, three-story hotel is an attractive option for modern and moderate-cost accommodations in the center of the island, if you don’t need to be on the water. All rooms have A/C, cable TV, and Wi-Fi; those on the second and third floors are a little larger and cost a little more. The biggest and best upper floor rooms have balconies and king beds. Rare on Caulker, the front desk is staffed 24 hours a day. The rooftop terrace offers great panoramic views. Pros: modern hotel in the center of the village; clean rooms with A/C. Cons: not on beach; no pool; rates have increased; not any local atmosphere. | Rooms from: BZ$175 | Middle St. at Calle del Sol | 226/0780 | www.cayecaulkerplazahotel.com | 32 rooms | No meals.
FAMILY | Fodor’s Choice | Caye Reef Condos.
RENTAL | Caye Reef Condos are among the most upmarket and spacious digs on the island, especially for families or couples traveling together. The six two-bedroom, two-bath condo apartments are on Front Street near the Split, across Front Street from the water, with a small swimming pool hidden behind a tall wall. Units are fully air-conditioned, with tile floors, full kitchens, private verandas with sea views (second and third floors), original art, and small flatscreen TVs. For couples, the two-bedroom units can be rented as one-bedrooms at a slight reduction in rates. There are fabulous views of the reef from the rooftop patio, where there is a whirlpool. Pros: upscale condo apartments; lots and lots of space; pool; convenient location. Cons: some furnishings are looking a little worn; prices are high for Caulker. | Rooms from: BZ$436 | Front St. at Park St., near Split | 226/0381 | www.cayereef.com | 6 2-bedroom condo apartments; some can be rented as 1-bedroom | No meals.
De Real Macaw.
HOTEL | De Real Macaw has a desirable location in the heart of the Front Street activities, across the street from the water and a short walk to the Split, and the prices are right. You have a choice of six rooms or two larger apartment suites. Also available are a two-bedroom condo and a beach house. Pros: clean and well-run; good location near water and most restaurants. Cons: not many frills; some units not air-conditioned. | Rooms from: BZ$109 | Front St., corner of Crocodile St., north of main public pier | 226/0459 | www.derealmacaw.biz | 6 rooms, 2 suites, 1 2-bedroom condo, 1 house | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | Iguana Reef Inn.
HOTEL | One of Caye Caulker’s most upscale lodgings, Iguana Reef has just about everything but a concierge. The suites are colorfully furnished with handmade furniture and local artwork and have air-conditioning. Upstairs suites have vaulted ceilings with skylights. There’s a third-story 2,000-square-foot penthouse suite with two bedrooms, and a swimming pool. Because the inn is on the island’s lee (west) side, you have the benefit of sunset views from your veranda, but you’re not on the Caribbean-side beaches. No children under 12. Pros: attractive, well-designed lodging, with pool. Cons: on back side of island. | Rooms from: BZ$305 | Near north end of Middle St., next to soccer field | 226/0213 | www.iguanareefinn.com | 12 1-bedroom suites and 1 2-bedroom penthouse suite | Breakfast.
Lazy Iguana B&B.
B&B/INN | This comfortable B&B is one of the tallest structures on the island, providing stunning views of the sunset from the fourth-level rooftop terrace. The property’s location on the island’s back side, away from the sea and sea breezes, means you may need to swat an occasional mosquito while you watch. The rooms are furnished with attractive wicker and tropical hardwood furniture. Feel free to make yourself at home in the common room, which has TV and Internet access - owner Mo Miller says no shoes are required. Pros: laid-back, nicely furnished B&B; big homemade breakfast included. Cons: not on sea; back-of-island location is 10-minute walk to main restaurant area. | Rooms from: BZ$207 | Alamina Dr., on back side of island near airstrip | 226/0350 | www.lazyiguana.net | 4 rooms | Breakfast.
Maxhapan Cabañas.
HOTEL | This little spot is in the center of the village and not on the water, but it makes up for it by being neat and clean and a fine value, and set in a small, shady, sandy garden. The rooms, including two in a two-story cabaña and one in a one-level building, have tile floors, air-conditioning, TVs, fridges, and a veranda with hammocks. Complimentary bikes and snorkel gear are available. The owner, Louise, is a charmer. This spot is almost always fully booked. Pros: inexpensive, clean rooms. Cons: not on the water. | Rooms from: BZ$140 | 55 Av. Pueblo Nuevo, in center of village south of the main public pier | 226/0118 | 3 rooms.
Pancho’s Villas.
RENTAL | Cutesy name aside, Pancho’s Villas offers six attractive, modern one-bedroom suites in a lemon-yellow three-story building. Each suite has air-conditioning and ceiling fans, cable TV, Wi-Fi, fridge, and microwave. This hotel is associatd with Pancho’s auto rentals in Belize City, and if’ve rented a car from Pancho’s you get a 10% discount at the hotel. Pros: pleasant one-bedroom suites. Cons: not on beach. | Rooms from: BZ$142 | Pasero St., between Front and Middle Sts. | 226/0304 | www.panchosvillasbelize.com | 6 suites | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | Seadreams Hotel.
B&B/INN | Seadreams is ideal for those who like to fish or enjoy taking in beautiful sunsets from a private pier on the lagoon. There are five rooms around a shady (and slightly dark) courtyard, plus three cabañas. All units have air-conditioning and cable TV, and in-season double rates start at less than BZ$200 including tax. Anglers Abroad is based here, run by co-owner Haywood Curry. Complimentary bikes are available. Ten percent of the profits go to the local high school, Ocean Academy, founded by Seadreams co-owner Heidi Curry. Pros: convenient location near the Split; ideal for anglers; private pier on lagoon. Cons: not on beach. | Rooms from: BZ$230 | Hattie St., near the Split | 630/1008 | www.seadreamsbelize.com | 5 rooms, 3 apartments | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | Seaside Cabañas.
RESORT | If your Belizean dreams include lounging poolside just steps from the sea, Belikin in hand, get thee to Seaside, a delightful beachfront inn with one of the few hotel swimming pools on the island. Seaside, which has three sunset-orange-color thatch-roof buildings arranged in a U-shape around the pool, commands a prime location near the main public pier. It’s not everywhere you can get an in-season seafront room in Belize with cable TV, air conditioining, and pool for BZ$250. Bathrooms feel bare-bones, but other creature comforts (air-conditioning, cable TV, and a mini-refrigerator) make up for it. Four of the rooms (numbers 1, 2, 3, and 4) have private rooftop terraces for sunning or watching the sea - they’re not much more a night and worth the extra money. The Una Mas bar serves drinks and coffee. Pros: a top choice on the island; pool; prime location. Cons: beach swimming in front of hotel is not good. | Rooms from: BZ$251 | Front and Dock Sts., at main public pier | 226/0498 | www.seasidecabanas.com | 16 rooms, 1 suite | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | Treetops Guesthouse.
B&B/INN | Austrian-born owner Doris Creasey brings international flair and Teutonic cleanliness to this three-story colonial-style guesthouse with four rooms and two suites, set back a ways from the sea, which is so well run and such a good value that it’s almost always full. Two third-floor suites, Sunset and Sunrise, have king-size beds and private balconies with views of the sea and reef. A small courtyard garden is a great place to read or lounge in a hammock. Treetops is about 150 ft from the sea, just south of the island cemetery and within easy walking distance of most island restaurants, tour offices, and shops. A few guests rankle at the house rules and regulations enforced by the owner, who runs a tight ship: Rooms are cleaned early, no ifs, ands, or buts (and they are thoroughly cleaned); no cooking in rooms, not even hot water for coffee or tea; no outside guests; but most find this one of the best guesthouses on the cayes if not in all of Belize. Pros: meticulously clean and well run; quiet location near the water; excellent value. Cons: some guests complain about fairly strict rules. | Rooms from: BZ$135 | Beachfront, Playa Asunción, south of main public pier | 226/0240 | www.treetopsbelize.com | 4 rooms, 2 with shared bath, 2 suites | No meals.
Vacation Home Rentals
A handful of privately owned homes are available for rent on the island, either daily or by the week. Expect to pay around BZ$100–BZ$200 a night or BZ$800–BZ$2,000 a week. In most cases, credit cards are not accepted.
Caye Caulker Rentals (www.cayecaulkerrentals.com | 630–1008) is the largest vacation home rental source on the island. It manages about 20 cottages from BZ$130 a night, plus 9% tax. Small beachfront houses start at around BZ$1,300 a week.
Nightlife
You don’t come to Caye Caulker for the hot nightlife, but the island does have its share of laid-back bars. The most famous is the Lazy Lizard at the Split. The Lizard has done some renovation recently and serves bar food as well as beer and booze.
I&I Reggae Bar.
Knock back a Belikin or two to the beat of reggae music at I&I Reggae Bar. Swings hang from the ceiling, replacing bar stools, on the first floor, and the top floor has hammocks and a thatch roof. The second floor is for dancing, with a live DJ. There’s really nothing else like this three-story bar in Belize. There is a small cover charge (around BZ$3) some nights. | Middle St. at Luciano Reyes St. | South of public pier. Go south on Front St. to dead end, then turn right. | 660/2205 | Daily 4 pm–1 am.
Lazy Lizard.
“Sunny place for shady people” is the slogan of the Lazy Lizard. During the day you can swim at the Split and then cool off with some Belikins (BZ$20 for a bucket of six) on the barstools at the Lizard, which sits right at the edge of the water at the northernmost tip of the village. Sunsets are amazing here. After dark there’s a spotlight pointed into the water, so you can see fish, small sharks, and occasionally even a crocodile swimming around. Lazy Lizard is usually open late. Don’t expect clean bathrooms, seating or delicious bar snacks, but because of the location this is by far the most popular hangout on the island. | At the Split | 623/1454.
Shopping
You won’t find nearly as many shops here as in San Pedro, but there are a few standout stores to poke around in for some interesting souvenirs. Every day vendors set up on a section of Front Street north of the main public pier, selling crafts and souvenirs. A few vendors along Front Street can be pretty aggressive—ignore them and buy from someone else.
Caribbean Colors.
Caribbean Colors has colorful watercolors and silk screenings by the owner, Lee Vanderwalker, along with handmade jewelry, scarves, and art by other artists. A small café, Coco Loco, in the gallery serves great coffee and some breakfast/lunch items. | Front St., just south of main public pier | 226/0206, 877/809–1659 | www.cafepress.com/caribbeancolors.
Chan’s.
Chan’s is the largest grocery in the village. Pick up your basic groceries and Marie Sharp’s hot sauce here. | Middle St. at Calle del Sol | 226/0165.
Cooper’s Art Gallery.
Cooper’s Art Gallery has paintings and prints by Walter Castillo, Nelson Young, and other Central American artists, along with pieces by owner Debbie Cooper. | Front St., north of main public pier | 226/0330 | www.debbiecooper.artspan.com.
Southern Cayes
Getting Here and Around
The southern cayes are specks of land spread out over hundreds of square miles of sea. There is no scheduled air or boat service to any of these islands. In the case of Tobacco Caye, private boats leave Dangriga daily around 9 to 9:30 am. To other cayes and atolls you’ll have to arrange transportation with the lodges or resorts on the islands, or charter your own boat at high cost.
Timing
Because of the difficulty and expense of getting to the islands, most resorts have minimum-stay requirements, sometimes as little as three days but often a week. Bring several beach novels, and be prepared to enjoy a quiet vacation filled with salty adventures on and under the sea.
Tobacco Caye
11 miles (18 km) southeast of Dangriga.
Tobacco Caye is at the northern tip of the South Water Caye Marine Reserve, a 62-square-mile (160-square-km) reserve that’s popular for diving and fishing and has some of the most beautiful islands in Belize. Visitors to the South Water Caye Marine Reserve pay BZ$10 a day for up to three days, or BZ$30 a week, park fee. Rangers come around and collect it from guests at the Tobacco Caye hotels.
The island has no shops or restaurants, except those at the hotels, and just a couple of bars, but there is one small dive shop. Boats leave from the Riverside Café in Dangriga for the 40-minute, BZ$40–BZ$50 trip to Tobacco Caye. Get to the Riverside by 9 am; most boats leave around 9:30 (though at busy times such as Easter they come and go all day long). You can get information on the boats, as well as breakfast, at the Riverside Café.
If you don’t want to pay a lot for your place in the sun, Tobacco Caye may be for you. It’s a tiny island—barely 4 acres, and a walk around the entire caye takes 10 minutes—but it’s right on the reef, so you can wade in and snorkel all you want. Though the snorkeling off the caye is not as good as in some other areas of Belize (some of the coral is dead and most of the fish are small), you can see spotted eagle rays, moray eels, octopuses, and other sea life.
Where to Stay
All the accommodations are budget places, basically simple wood cabins, some not much larger than sheds. Since a half-dozen hotels vie for space, the islet seems even smaller than it is. Periodically the hotels get blown away by storms but are rebuilt, usually a little better than they were before. Unfortunately, garbage tends to pile up on the island, and the hotels don’t always use the most ecologically sound methods for disposing of it.
Though rates have increased, most prices remain affordably low, around BZ$100–BZ$150 a day per person, including meals.
TIP Hotels can be casual about reservations. After making reservations months in advance, you may arrive to find that your reservation has been lost and the hotel is fully occupied. Fortunately, it’s usually easy to find a room in another hotel.
Tobacco Caye Lodge.
HOTEL | This cluster of pastel blue cabins is a few feet from the turquoise sea. There’s a bit more room here for stretching out than at the island’s other lodges, as the property extends from the sea on the east to the back side of the caye. A thatch-roof bar is set away from the cabins, and there’s also a small shop. Rates do not include South Water Caye Marine Reserve fee of BZ$10 per day per person (reduced daily rates for longer stays) or transport to and from the island. Camping available. Pros: most “upscale” of Tobacco Caye hotels; friendly staff. Cons: still pretty basic, just slightly above backpacker level. | Rooms from: BZ$220 | Tobacco Caye Lodge | 532/2033 | www.tclodgebelize.com | 6 cabins | No meals.
Tobacco Caye Paradise Cabins.
RENTAL | Whether it’s paradise or not depends on your expectations, but if what you’re seeking is a little shack built partly over the water, backed by cocopalms, with snorkeling and swimming right out your door, at an affordable price, this could be it. You can see stingrays swimming by your porch over the sea, and snorkeling is at your doorstep. Rates with and without meals are offered and don’t include transportation or Marine Reserve fees. Pros: huts on the beach with meals at modest prices; snorkeling is 15 feet away; friendly staff; good value. Cons: very basic rooms; past time for repairs. | Rooms from: BZ$100 | Tobacco Caye Paradise | 532/5101 | www.tobacocayeparadisecabin.com | 6 cabins, 3 rooms with shared baths | Multiple meal plans.
Thatch Caye
Where to Stay
Thatch Caye.
RESORT | Thatch Caye is all about you and your private island vacation, so you can head out for a day of fishing, diving, sea kayaking, or snorkeling and return to supremely comfortable accommodations. Enjoy a delicious meal in the thatched dining room, sip an ice-cold drink, and surf the web on the free Wi-Fi in the bar before heading to your seaside cabaña where you’ll be lulled asleep by the trade winds (no air-conditioning available). Some of the cabañas are built partly over water, while the slightly more expensive casitas have third-level widow’s walks where you can gaze for hours at the sea. Although the resort is billed as an “eco all-inclusive,” Thatch Caye’s packages don’t include alcoholic drinks, fishing, diving, or some tours. You can walk from one end of the island to the other in less than half an hour, and there are three small natural beaches. However, shore snorkeling isn’t very good. Pros: beautiful private island with congenial hosts; plenty of marine activities; attractive cabanas directly on the water. Cons: limited snorkeling off beach; not on reef; no air-conditioning; no pool. | Rooms from: BZ$702 | Part of the Coco Plum Caye group, 9 miles (15 km) or about 25 minutes by boat from Dangriga | Thatch Caye | 800/435–3145 in U.S. and Canada | www.thatchcayebelize.com | 11 cabanas, 1 family villa | All meals.
Coco Plum Caye
Where to Stay
Fodor’s Choice | Coco Plum Island Resort.
ALL-INCLUSIVE | It all comes down to this: Relax in a hammock on the veranda of your cottage, sip a cold drink, and gaze at the Caribbean at this all-inclusive private island resort off Dangriga. This 16-acre island has only 13 cottages, all air-conditioned and painted in bright tropical colors. Several are new and others have been recently remodeled. The snorkeling off the shore is only so-so, but most rates include snorkel trips to the reef a few miles farther out. Diving, fishing, and honeymoon packages are also available. Four-night minimum stay on all packages. The included alcohol in some packages occasionally encourages a beach party atmosphere. This is definitely a place for all-inclusive travelers, not the independent adventure travelers that Belize often attracts. Pros: air-conditioned cabins on tranquil small island; friendly staff; excellent service. Cons: only fair snorkeling off beach; not on reef. | Rooms from: BZ$1120 | Coco Plum Caye, 8 miles (13 km) from Dangriga | Coco Plum | 522/2200, 800/763–7360 U.S. reservations number | www.cocoplumcay.com | 14 cottages, 1 3-bedroom villa | All-inclusive.
South Water Caye
14 miles (23 km) southeast of Dangriga.
This is one of our favorite underrated spots in Belize. The 15-acre South Water Caye has good off-the-beaten-reef diving and snorkeling in a stunning tropical setting, and the beach at the southern end of the island is one of Belize’s sandy beauties. The reef is only a short swim from shore. The downside of the small caye? The sand flies here can be a nuisance, and there aren’t any facilities other than those at the island’s two resorts and the International Zoological Expeditions’ student dorm.
Where to Stay
Blue Marlin Lodge.
RESORT | A good, though pricey, base for fishing, snorkeling, and diving trips, this Belizean-owned resort at the north end of beautiful Southwater Caye is only 50 yards from the reef. Accommodations, which spread out over half the caye, range from cozy wood cabins to a trio of concrete dome “igloos” to standard rooms. You’ll sleep so close to the sea that the sound of lapping waves may lull you to sleep. The resort has its own PADI dive shop and boats for diving and fishing. Swap stories with other travelers in the bar and restaurant. Packages start at BZ$4,400 double for three nights in a standard room including meals, transfers, a snorkel tour, and taxes. Extra-cost upgrades include private cottage and dive and fishing tours. Rates don’t include Southwater Caye Marine Reserve fee of BZ$10 a day or airfare to Belize. Pros: Belizean-owned; great snorkeling and diving nearby; friendly staff. Cons: some rooms need upgrades; expensive. | Rooms from: BZ$990 | South Water Caye | 522/2243, 800/798–1558 in U.S. and Canada | www.bluemarlinlodge.com | 8 cottages, 6 rooms.
Pelican Beach Resort South Water Caye.
RESORT | Steps from one of Belize’s best beaches, where you can swim, snorkel, and dive from shore, and fish to your heart’s content, is this former convent turned peaceful island retreat on 3½ seaside acres. The colonial-era main house has a dining room serving fresh seafood and Belizean-style dishes on the ground floor, and five large rooms on the second floor. You can also stay in one of four no-frills but pleasant cottages. A dormitory is for student groups. With all meals and tax, you can stay in one of the rooms in the main house for BZ$649 double in-season, or BZ$737 in a cottage. The BZ$10 per day per person Marine Reserve fee and transport to the island from Dangriga (BZ$275 per person round-trip) are extra. Power here is solar, showers are rainwater, and toilets are the composting kind. Pros: on great little beach, with snorkeling from shore; tasty Belizean food; comfortable, eco-friendly no-frills accommodations. Cons: you have to make your own entertainment. | Rooms from: BZ$649 | South Water Caye | 522/2044 | www.pelicanbeachbelize.com | 5 rooms, 4 cottages, 1 student dorm | All meals.
Southern Cayes Off Placencia and Southern Coast
8–18 miles (13–30 km) east of Placencia.
A few miles off the coast of southern Stann Creek District are several small islands with equally small tourism operations. If Placencia and Hopkins aren’t far enough away from civilization for you, consider an overnight or longer visit to one of these quiet little paradises surrounded by fish. French Louie Caye is one of them, a private two-acre island with a nice coral sand beach. You can do a day trip here from Placencia, or stay for longer periods in basic cabins. Hatchet Caye and Whipray Caye are two other islands off Placencia with small lodges.
Where to Stay
French Louie Caye.
RENTAL | Rent your own private island 8 miles (13 km) from Placencia with a lovely coral sand beach and a reef for snorkeling and fishing, and enjoy lobster and fish freshly prepared by your own cook. Accommodations here are basic: a simple, two-room cabin by the sea, tropically pink and green, with shower and bathroom facilities in a separate building, and you can also pitch a tent on the beach. The pristine reef and shallow waters around the island are safe for children, making this a perfect place for a family vacation. This is truly the way it used to be in Belize. Private island rental - you’re the only party on the island except for the cook/caretaker - is BZ$4,653 for a week, double, including house, all meals (but not alcohol), use of kayaks and other equipment, round-trip transport from Placencia, and taxes. Shorter rentals and day trips also available, such as three-night package for BZ$2,520 Pros: beautiful 2-acre private island; lovely coral sand beach; delicious fresh seafood and other meals prepared to your order. Cons: simple accommodations; no longer inexpensive. | Rooms from: BZ$840 | French Louie Caye, 8 miles (13 km) east of Placencia | Placencia | 523/3636, 800/886–4265 in U.S. | www.frenchlouiecaye.com | 1 cabin | All meals.
Hatchet Caye.
RESORT | On a private island about 17 miles (28 km) east of Placencia, Hatchet Caye offers an unspoiled, remote getaway for honeymooners, divers, or just anyone wanting a complete escape. The rooms are recently constructed and modern, with light plaster walls with mahogany trim and tile floors; they all have air-conditioning, DVD players, Wii, and Wi-Fi. As with most small islands off Belize, there’s really not much to do except relax and enjoy water sports - snorkeling, diving, sea kayaking, and swimming. If you’re unlucky enough to hit a stretch of bad weather, you may run out of things to keep you occupied. Rates start at around BZ$750 with room, meals, snorkel tour, tax and service, and boat transport to the island. Packages are available with Chabil Mar in Placencia. Pros: modern, upscale resort in remote area; very good food; on-site PADI shop offers good diving and snorkeling nearby; friendly staff. Cons: small island with no shops or choice of restaurants; we’ve heard some complaints about the suite unit, which unlike the cabanas doesn’t have much of a sea view. | Rooms from: BZ$595 | Hatchet Caye | Hatchet Caye | 533/4446 reservations number | www.hatchetcaye.com | 7 rooms in duplex cottages, 1 suite, 1 1-bedroom house | Closed Oct. | Multiple meal plans.
Whipray Caye Lodge.
ALL-INCLUSIVE | Whipray Caye (also called Whippari Caye) lures anglers with some of the best permit and bonefish fishing in Central America, and owner Julian Cabral (who claims he is descended from a pirate who stopped off in Belize in the 17th century) is a top-flight fishing guide and fly fisherman. You’ll also find excellent snorkeling here, and plenty of peace and quiet on this little 3-acre island, but the rates are set up for anglers. Fishing packages including lodging, meals, non-alcoholic drinks, taxes, boat, and fishing guide, start at around BZ$8,620 for two persons for a four-night stay. There are only four rooms in two wood cottages steps from the sea. Pros: good choice for hard-core anglers. Cons: basic accommodations; very expensive. | Rooms from: BZ$2155 | Whipray Caye,island 9 miles (15 km) from Placencia village | Whipray Caye | 610/1068 | www.whipraycayelodge.com | 4 rooms in 2 cottages | All-inclusive.
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