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Villefranche-sur-Mer | Beaulieu-sur-Mer | St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat | Èze | Roquebrune–Cap-Martin | Menton
Purists and hard-core regional historians insist that this final sunny sliver of coast—from Cap Ferrat to the Italian border—is the one and only, true Côte d’Azur. It is certainly the most dramatically endowed, backed by forested mountains and crystalline Alps, with Mediterranean breezes relieving the summer heat and radiant light soothing midwinter days. And yet it was from these cliffs that for 2,500 years castles and towers held watch over the waters, braced against the influx of new peoples—first the Greeks, then the Romans, the Saracens, trade ships from Genoa, battleships under Napoléon, Edwardian cruise ships on the Grand Tour, and the Allies in World War II. The influx continues today, of course, in the great waves of vacationers who storm the coast, spring to early fall.
Terraced by three parallel, panoramic highways—the Basse Corniche, the Moyenne Corniche, and the Grande Corniche—that snake along its graduated crests, this stretch of the coast is studded with fabled resorts, their names as evocative of luxury and glamour as haute-couture logos: Cap Ferrat, Beaulieu, and Monte Carlo. The traffic along the corniche routes—especially the Corniche Inférieure that follows the coast—is appalling in peak season, exacerbated by the manic Italian driving style and self-absorbed luxury roadsters that turn the pavement into a bumper-car battle. So spare yourself and visit in May, June, September, or October, or even in the temperate winter, the fashionable season during the 19th century.
Villefranche-sur-Mer
10 km (6 miles) east of Nice.
Nestled discreetly along the deep scoop of harbor between Nice and Cap Ferrat, this pretty watercolor of a fishing port seems surreal, flanked as it is by the big city of Nice and the assertive wealth of Monaco. The town is a stage set of brightly colored houses—the sort of place where Pagnol’s Fanny could have been filmed. Genuine fishermen skim up to the docks here in weathered-blue barques, and the streets of the Vieille Ville flow directly to the waterfront, much as they did in the 13th century. Some of the prettiest spots in town are around Place de la Paix, Rue du Poilu, and Place du Conseil, which looks out over the water. The deep harbor, in the caldera of a volcano, was once preferred by the likes of Onassis and Niarchos and the royals on their yachts. But the character of the place was subtly shaped by the artists and authors who gathered at the Hôtel Welcome—Diaghilev and Stravinsky, taking a break from the Ballet Russe in Monaco; Somerset Maugham and Evelyn Waugh; and, above all, Jean Cocteau, who came here to recover from the excesses of Paris life. Nowadays, its population consists mainly of wealthy retired people, though families do head here to enjoy its sandy (well, gravelly) beach and jellyfish-free zones. The only fly in the ointment is Villefranche’s popularity: between the endless stream of cruise ships sending their passengers ashore in very, very large numbers and a flood of new construction so villas now virtually elbow each other out of the way up the hillsides, the town’s physical beauty has become more challenging to appreciate peacefully. Still and all, quaint alleyways and the heavenly panoramas of the town from on high nicely remind you why everyone headed here in the first place. A piece of advice: wear sensible shoes as cobblestone is no friend to thinly-soled footwear (and there are lots of steps).
Getting Here and Around
Villefranche is a major stop on the Marseilles–Ventimiglia coastal train route, with more than 40 arrivals every day from Nice (6 minutes). Buses connect with Nice and Monaco via Lignes d’Azur No. 100 or from Nice, Nos. 80, 81, or 84 (€1.50). Most public parking is paid during the day, 9–7 (€1.10 per hour), and can be tricky to find.
Visitor Information
Villefranche-sur-Mer Tourist Office.
| Jardin François Binon | 04–93–01–73–68 | www.villefranche-sur-mer.com.
Exploring
Chapelle St-Pierre.
So enamored was Jean Cocteau of this painterly fishing port that he decorated the 14th-century Chapelle St-Pierre with images from the life of St. Peter and dedicated it to the village’s fishermen. | Quai de l’Amiral Courbet | 04–93–76–90–70 | €3 | Apr.–Sept., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 3–7; Oct.–Mar., Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.
Citadelle St-Elme.
Restored to perfect condition, the stalwart 16th-century Citadelle St-Elme anchors the harbor with its broad, sloping stone walls. Beyond its drawbridge lie the city’s administrative offices and a group of minor gallery-museums, with a scattering of works by Picasso and Miró. Whether you stop into these private collections (all free of charge), you’re welcome to stroll around the inner grounds and circle the imposing exterior. | Harbor | Free | Museum: June–Sept., Mon.–Sat. 10–noon and 3–6:30, Sun. 3–6:30; Oct.–May, Mon.–Sat. 10–noon and 2–5:30, Sun. 2–5:30.
Église St-Michel.
This modest Baroque church, above Rue Obscure, contains a movingly realistic sculpture of Christ carved in fig wood by an anonymous 17th-century convict. | Pl. Poullan.
Rue Obscure.
Running parallel to the waterfront, the extraordinary 14th-century Rue Obscure (literally, Dark Street) is entirely covered by vaulted arcades; it sheltered the people of Villefranche when the Germans fired their parting shots—an artillery bombardment—near the end of World War II. | Villefranche-sur-Mer.
Beaches
Plage des Marinières.
To the east of the port, southwest facing Plage des Marinères is the biggest beach you’ll find in Villefranche, but it’s only about 1 km (½ mile) long. Popular because the shoreline is protected from winds, this beach has coarse sand and lifeguards in the summer. Note that the SNCF train line runs parallel, so the noise factor is a consideration. There are no loungers, but there are jellyfish nets. Amenities: lifeguards; showers; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; sunrise; swimming. | Promenade des Marinières, | Villefranche.
Where to Eat
Cosmo Bar.
$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | Once you’ve discovered Cosmo, you’re likely to come back again and again. Facing the Cocteau chapel with an enviable view of the sea from its terrace, this modern brasserie could easily get away with being merely mediocre. Instead, it serves fresh, colorful Mediterranean food ranging from an addictive anchoïade—crudités with anchovy dip—to Moroccan-inspired monkfish tagine. It’s a favorite of English-speaking expats in Villefranche and it’s easy to understand why, since it brings together all the ingredients that make for a casual yet memorable meal on the French Riviera. Call ahead to be sure of securing a coveted terrace table. | Average main: €24 | 11 pl. Amélie Pollonnais | 04–93–01–84–05 | www.restaurant-lecosmo.fr | Closed 3 wks in Jan. | Reservations essential.
La Mère Germaine.
$$$$ | FRENCH | This is a place to linger over warm lobster salad or sole meuniere in butter with almonds while watching the world go by; the food is tasty, but the fabulous setting of this veritable institution is reflected in the prices (and service can fall on the rude side). The seaside restaurant opened in 1938, and proprietor Germaine Halap soon became a second mother to American naval officers and sailors who came into port. A movie has been made about “Mère Germaine,” and excerpts from the book Mother of the Sixth Fleet were published in Readers Digest. Valet parking is available April–October. | Average main: €55 | Quai Corbert | 04–93–01–71–39 | www.meregermaine.com | Closed late Nov.–Christmas.
Fodor’s Choice | Le Serre.
$ | FRENCH | It might look like just another pizzeria, but Le Serre is a family-run restaurant where everything from the pizzas to the local specialties is prepared with care. The warm welcome ensures that the restaurant attracts plenty of locals who have learned to tread carefully around tourist traps. Daube, the Provençal beef-and-wine stew with herbs, is served all year; the chef starts its preparation at midnight for the next day. | Average main: €17 | 16 rue de May | 04–93–76–79–91 | Closed mid-Nov.–Dec., and Mon. and Tues. Jan.–Mar.
Where to Stay
Hôtel de la Darse.
$ | HOTEL | Who needs luxury fittings and fabrics when you have a view like this one overlooking the old harbor of Villefranche, and at such a highly affordable price? The most desirable rooms at this simple yet welcoming 1950s hotel even have balconies with sweeping panoramas. The hotel is about a 10-minute walk from the bustle of the town center, an advantage in peak season. Go for the sea-view rooms—it’s hard to find a better bargain along this stretch of coast. Pros: the views over the Old Port; friendly, clean, well-located. Cons: there is a lot of waking involved both to and within this hotel (no elevator); slightly outside the center of town. | Rooms from: €85 | 32 av. Général de Gaulle, | Villefranche | 04–93–01–72–54 | www.hoteldeladarse.com | No credit cards | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Feb. | 21 rooms | No meals.
Hôtel Provençal.
$ | HOTEL | Within walking distance of the port, this inexpensive hotel run by four generations may not look like much from the outside but is friendly and accommodating. The rooms are large and humbly decorated; half of them have a sea view, while the other half look out over colorful rooftops (and have cheaper rates). The Provençal-style restaurant serves tasty items ranging from freshly grilled fish to hearty soups on a large terrace overflowing with flowers. Pros: balconies with sea view (ask for this when booking); breakfast (€11), served on the terrace, is high quality. Cons: modest decoration in rooms and bathrooms; village facing rooms may have street noise. | Rooms from: €90 | 4 av. Maréchal Joffre | 04–93–76–53–53 | www.hotelleprovencal.fr | Closed Nov.–Feb. | 45 rooms | No meals.
Hôtel Welcome.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Somerset Maugham holed up in one of the tiny crow’s-nest rooms at the top, Jean Cocteau lived here while writing Orphée, and Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton used to tie one on in the bar (now nicely renovated) at this waterfront landmark—which remains a comfortable and noteworthy retreat. The best rooms are brightened with vivid colors and stenciled quotes from Cocteau; some top-floor rooms have spectacular views of the great Villefranche harbor; and all come equipped with L’Occitane products. During July and August, a three-night minimum may be required, but they’ll work around your request when possible. Pros: excellent service; artistic heritage makes for a nostalgic trip into the Roaring Twenties. Cons: style, especially on the top floor, is distinctly nautical in flavor; some rooms are oddly shaped—narrow and long—so they feel smaller; secure parking is €46 per day (but the limited public parking costs approx €43 per 24 hours). | Rooms from: €239 | 3 quai Amiral Courbet | 04–93–76–27–62 | www.welcomehotel.com | Closed mid-Nov.–Christmas | 32 rooms, 3 suites | Breakfast.
Beaulieu-sur-Mer
4 km (2½ miles) east of Villefranche; 14 km (9 miles) east of Nice.
With its back pressed hard against the cliffs of the corniche and sheltered between the peninsulas of Cap Ferrat and Cap Roux, this once-grand resort basks in a tropical microclimate that earned its central neighborhood the name “Petite Afrique.” The town was the pet of 19th-century society, and its grand hotels welcomed Empress Eugénie, the Prince of Wales, and Russian nobles.
Getting Here and Around
With frequent arrivals and departures, Beaulieu is a main stop on the Marseille–Ventimiglia coastal train line. From Beaulieu’s train station the hourly Bus No. 81 (€1.50) connects with neighboring St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. Bus No. 100 takes you to/from Nice/Monaco, while No. 84 goes to Nice via Villefranche.
Visitor Information
Beaulieu Tourist Office. | Pl. Georges Clemenceau, | Beaulieu | 04–93–01–02–21 | www.beaulieusurmer.fr.
Exploring
Promenade Maurice-Rouvier.
Today Beaulieu is usually spoken of in the past tense and has taken on a rather stuffy character, though its small beach attracts families with children, but on the Promenade Maurice-Rouvier, a paved pedestrian path that begins not far from the Villa Kerylos, you can stroll the waterfront, past grand villas and their tropical gardens, all the way to St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. The 30-minute walk winds seaside along the Baie des Fourmis (Bay of Ants), whose name alludes to the black rocks “crawling” up from the sea. The name doesn’t quite fit, but the walk will give you great views of the sparkling Mediterranean and surrounding mountains. | Beaulieu.
Fodor’s Choice | Villa Kerylos.
One manifestation of Beaulieu’s Belle Époque excess is the eye-popping Villa Kerylos, a 1902 mansion built in the style of classical Greece (to be exact, of the villas that existed on the island of Delos in the 2nd century BC). It was the dream house of amateur archaeologist Théodore Reinach, who hailed from a wealthy German family, helped the French in their excavations at Delphi, and became an authority on ancient Greek music. He commissioned an Italian architect from Nice, Emmanuel Pontremoli, to surround him with Grecian delights: cool Carrara marble, rare fruitwoods, and a dining salon where guests reclined to eat à la grecque. Don’t miss this: it’s one of the most unusual houses in the south of France. Organized through the tourist office, tours in English (€5) are every Thursday at 9:30. Note that a combination ticket allows you to also visit Villa Ephrussi del Rothschild in St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat within the same week. | Impasse Gustave-Eiffel, | Beaulieu | 04–93–01–01–44 | www.villa-kerylos.com | €11.50, €20 for both villas (subject to change) | July and Aug., daily 10–7; Mar.–June, Sept., and Oct., daily 10–6; Nov.–Feb., weekdays 2–6, weekends 10–6.
Where to Eat and Stay
La Reserve.
$$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | The first impression of old-world grandeur given by the beautiful pink building is carried through to every opulent corner of La Reserve. Its Michelin-starred Restaurant des Rois, a marvel of light and color, with a chandelier-bedecked salon lined with bay windows that offer views of a watery nirvana, has been a crown jewel of the Mediterranean since it opened in 1880. Chef Yannick Franque creates original recipes from fresh Mediterranean products, and does not disappoint: the Egg Mystery—whisked egg whites, crispy brioche crumble, slightly creamed truffle juice—is so delectable you’ll overlook the fact you’ve paid €86 for a starter. For the price, go for the menu fixe for €155 or €205 (or try the vegetarian menu for €105). To save a few euros (barely, spaghetti is €46) on lunch, head to Vent Debout, perched over the pool. Reserve well in advance during the summer season. | Average main: €80 | 5 bd. General Leclerc, | Beaulieu | 04–93–01–00–01 | www.reservebeaulieu.com | Closed Nov.–mid-Dec. No lunch May–Oct. | Reservations essential.
Hôtel Riviera.
$$ | HOTEL | If you want to play at being rich without spending the money, book a room at this discreet little hotel in the heart of millionaire country, a five-minute walk from the beach. The cheerful ochre facade, festooned with frescoes and wrought-iron railings, looks inviting, and the clean guest rooms are freshly decorated with care that belies the bargain prices. For a lovely way to start the day, enjoy the breakfast (€9.50) served in an interior courtyard fragrant with hibiscus flowers. Pros: great value for money; proximity to the beach and bus stop. Cons: “petit chambre economique” is small. | Rooms from: €79 | 6 rue Paul-Doumer, | Beaulieu | 04–93–01–04–92 | www.hotel-riviera.fr | No credit cards | Closed mid-Oct.–Dec. | 14 rooms | No meals.
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
2 km (1 mile) south of Beaulieu on D25.
One of the most exclusive addresses in the world, the peninsula of Cap Ferrat is moored by the luxuriously sited pleasure port of St-Jean; from its portside walkways and crescent of beach you can look over the sparkling blue harbor to the graceful green bulk of the corniches. Yachts purr in and out of port, and their passengers scuttle into cafés for take-out drinks to enjoy on their private decks. On shore, the billionaires come and go, and trade gossip while residents of Cap Ferrat fiercely protect it from curious tourists; its grand old villas are hidden for the most part in the depths of tropical gardens. You can nonetheless try to catch peeks of them from the Coastline Promenade. Or just concentrate on shopping: Wednesday evenings in July and August there’s a night market (7–11) at the Théâtre de la Mer.
Getting Here and Around
The humor is not lost that a bus fare of €1.50 brings you to one of the most exclusive pieces of land on the planet; Bus No. 81 accesses the cape from Nice.
Visitor Information
St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat Tourist Office.
There are two tourist offices: one at the entrance to the village and a second near Place Clémenceau. | 5 and 59 av. Denis Semeria | 04–93–76–08–90 | www.saintjeancapferrat-tourisme.fr.
Exploring
Coastline Promenade.
While Cap Ferrat’s villas are sequestered for the most part in the depths of tropical gardens, you can nonetheless walk its entire coastline promenade if you strike out from the port; from the restaurant Capitaine Cook, cut right up Avenue des Fossés, turn right on Avenue Vignon, and follow Chemin de la Carrière. The 11-km (7-mile) walk passes through rich tropical flora and, on the west side, follows white cliffs buffeted by waves. When you’ve traced the full outline of the peninsula, veer up Chemin du Roy past the fabulous gardens of the Villa des Cèdres, owned by King Leopold II of Belgium at the turn of the last century. The king owned several opulent estates along the French Riviera, undoubtedly paid for by his enslavement of the Belgian Congo. Past the gardens, you can reach the Plage de Passable, from which you cut back across the peninsula’s wrist. A shorter loop takes you from town out to the Pointe de St-Hospice, much of the walk shaded by wind-twisted pines. From the port, climb Avenue Jean Mermoz to Place Paloma and follow the path closest to the waterfront. At the point are an 18th-century prison tower, a 19th-century chapel, and unobstructed views of Cap Martin. You can arrange a visit to the Villa des Cèdres by faxing 04–93–76–17–61, “Attention: Sécrétariat.” Two other footpath maps can be found at the Tourist Office at 59 avenue Denis-Séméria: the shorter loop takes you from town out to the Pointe de St-Hospice, much of the walk shaded by wind-twisted pines. From the port, climb Avenue Jean Mermoz to Place Paloma and follow the path closest to the waterfront or the Promenade Maurice Rouvier, which runs along the eastern edge of the peninsula. You’ll stumble on reasonably priced cafés, pizzerias, and ice-cream parlors on the promenade of the Plage de St-Jean. The best swimming is a bit farther south, past the port, at Plage Paloma. Keep trekking around the wooded area, where a beautiful path (sentier pédestre) leads along the outermost edge of Cap Ferrat. Other than the occasional yacht, all traces of civilization disappear, and the water is a dizzying blue. | St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.
Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild.
Between the port and the mainland, the floridly beautiful Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild bears witness to the wealth and worldly flair of the baroness who had it built. Constructed in 1905 in neo-Venetian style (its flamingo-pink facade was thought not to be in the best of taste by the local gentry), the house was baptized “Île-de-France” in homage to the Baroness Béatrice de Rothschild’s favorite ocean liner. In keeping with that theme, her staff used to wear sailing costumes and her ship travel kit is on view in her bedroom. Precious artworks, tapestries, and furniture adorn the salons—in typical Rothschildian fashion, each is given over to a different 18th-century “époque.” Upstairs are the private apartments of Madame la Baronne, which can only be seen on a guided tour offered around noon. The grounds are landscaped with no fewer than seven gardens and topped off with a Temple of Diana. Be sure to allow yourself time to wander here, as this is one of the few places on the coast where you’ll be allowed to experience the lavish pleasures characteristic of the Belle Époque Côte d’Azur. Tea and light lunches, served in a glassed-in porch overlooking the grounds and spectacular coastline, encourage you to linger. TIP A combination ticket allows you to also visit Villa Kerylos in nearby Beaulieu in the same week or the Jardin Exotique in Eze. | Av. Ephrussi | 04–93–01–33–09 | www.villa-ephrussi.com | €13; €20 for both villas, or €15 combined with Jardin Exotique in Eze | July and Aug., daily 10–7; Mar.–June, Sept., and Oct., daily 10–6; Nov.–Feb., weekdays 2–6, weekends 10–6.
Beaches
Paloma Plage.
Ideally located on one of Europe’s most expensive pieces of real estate, this lovely shade-dappled stretch of sand is at the bottom of a steep hill only five minutes away on foot from the glamorous village of Saint-Jean. The beach draws families, thanks to the shallow bay, soft sand, and some of the Riviera’s clearest water. An added bonus is that you can swim out 100 meters and gaze in awe at the palatial villas above the beach. High-rollers head to the private Paloma Beach club (you can rent loungers for €24 and Jet Skis are also available), but if your aim is to not see-and-be-seen, go to the public section. Amenities: lifeguards; showers; toilets; water sports. Best for: snorkeling; sunrise; swimming. | Av. Jean Mermoz.
Where to Eat and Stay
Le Sloop.
$$$ | SEAFOOD | Catering to the yachting crowd, this sleek portside restaurant has outdoor tables surrounding a tiny “garden” of potted palms. The focus is fish, of course: soupe de poisson (fish soup), St-Pierre (John Dory) steamed with asparagus, and roasted whole sea bass. Chef Alain Therlicocq has manned the kitchen here for 30 years, and his five-course fixed menu—which includes a fish and meat dish—is one of the best values on the coast. Reservations are necessary in the summer, but if you arrive without, ask with a smile for a table, and Alain’s wife, Regine, will find you une p’tite place. | Average main: €25 | Port de St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat | 04–93–01–48–63 | Closed mid-Nov.–mid-Dec., and Wed. mid-Dec.–Mar. No lunch Tues., and Wed. in July and Aug.
Brise Marine.
$$$ | HOTEL | With a Provençal-yellow facade, blue shutters, a balustraded sea terrace, and pretty pastel guest rooms, Brise Marine fulfills most desires for that perfect, picturesque Cap Ferrat hotel. Guest quarters are well maintained and feel like bedrooms in a private home—many have windows that provide views of the gorgeous peninsula, stunningly framed by statuesque palms. Spend the extra €25 and get a balcony. Pros: nighttime quiet interrupted only by gently breaking waves; excellent value for location; short walking distance to beach. Cons: some rooms are small; only nine available parking spots (fee), and they must be reserved in advance; extra €16 for breakfast. | Rooms from: €187 | 58 av. Jean Mermoz | 04–93–76–04–36 | www.hotel-brisemarine.com | Closed Nov.–Feb. | 16 rooms | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, A Four Seasons Hotel.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Just this side of paradise, this extravagantly expensive hotel has always been the exclusive playground for Hollywood’s elite; now, managed by Four Seasons since May 2015, it is the standard for discreet Cap-Ferrat moneyed luxury. Perched at the end of the peninsula with floor-to-ceiling windows leaning out over crashing waves, guest rooms have spectacular views far out to sea. Inside, understated class meets modern comfort: picture thick, white, softer-than-soft comforters, hardwood floors, plasma-screen TVs, and private terraces—some with their own pool (and a villa with its own tennis court). Even the Kids’ Clubhouse outshines local hotels. En plus is the Michelin-star Le Cap restaurant with 600 bottles on the wine list; open June to August, and for dinner only, it’s headed by wunderkind Didier Aniés, who creates tasty dishes like Aquitaine caviar lasagna. La Véranda offers all-day dining and is open year-round. FYI: legendary hotel swim instructor Pierre Gruneberg has given lessons to the likes of Picasso, Sinatra, and the late, great Robin Williams. Pros: epitome of wealth and luxury; every detail is well thought out and promptly attended to; acres of sculpted gardens. Cons: forget it if you’re on a budget (breakfast €45); three-night minimum in July and Aug., two nights in June and Sept. (but is that a bad thing?). | Rooms from: €675 | 71 bd. du Charles du Gaulle | 04–93–76–50–50 | www.fourseasons.com/capferrat | Closed mid-Dec.–Mar. | 49 rooms, 24 suites, 1 villa | No meals.
Royal Riviera.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Completely revamped by Parisian designer guru Grace Leo Andrieu, this former residence hôtelière for British aristocrats now invites visitors on an intimate voyage into neo-Hellenic style, complete with an admiring wink at the nearby Villa Kerylos. Inside, shades of ocher, wrought-iron, and a judicious mix of contemporary and classic furniture make a striking statement. Rooms in the main building have views of the sea, garden, or mountains, while tropical vegetation surrounds a vast swimming pool. Request a room away from the railroad tracks. Pros: excellent service and concierge; gorgeous property; free parking and Wi-Fi. Cons: noise from rooms facing railroad, which is near hotel; €38 breakfast. | Rooms from: €455 | 3 av. Jean Monnet | 04–93–76–31–00 | www.royal-riviera.com | Closed mid-Nov.–Jan. | 90 rooms, 3 suites | No meals.
Èze
2 km (1 mile) east of Beaulieu; 12 km (7 miles) east of Nice; 7 km (4½ miles) west of Monte Carlo.
Medieval and magnificent, towering like an eagle’s nest above the coast and crowned with ramparts and the ruins of a medieval château, Èze (pronounced “ehz”) is unfortunately the most accessible of all the perched villages. So even during off-season its streets flood with tourists, some not-so-fresh from the beach, and it was one of the first towns to post pictorial warnings that say, in effect, “No Shoes, No Shirt, No Service.” It is, nonetheless, the most spectacularly sited; its streets are steep and, in places, only for the flamboyantly fit; its time-stained stone houses huddle together in storybook fashion. No wonder U2 frontman Bono and guitarist The Edge have beachside villas here.
Colonized millennia ago by the Romans (who may have built a temple here to the Egyptian goddess, Isis—hence the town name), the mountain peak aerie that is Èze was much coveted by locals fleeing from pirating Saracens. By the 19th century, only peasants were left, but when the Riviera became fashionable, Èze’s splendid views up and down the coast became one of the draws that lured fabled visitors—lots of crowned heads, Georges Sand, Friedrich Nietzsche, and Consuelo Vanderbilt, who, when she was tired of being Duchess of Marlborough, traded in Blenheim Palace for a custom-built house in Èze. Remember that if you choose to stay here, it gets very quiet at night, even in high season.
Getting Here and Around
By car, you should arrive using the Moyenne Corniche, which deposits you near the gateway to Èze Village; Bus Nos. 112 and 82 from Nice also use this road, but No. 100 (to Monaco) goes by the sea while No. 116 heads up the Grande Corniche from Nice (€1.50 each). By train, you’ll arrive at the station in Èze-sur-Mer, where a daily navette shuttle bus (€1.50) takes you up to hilltop Èze, a trip that, with its 1,001 switchbacks up the steep mountainside, takes a full 15 minutes (keep this in mind if you’re hiring a taxi to “rush” you down to the train station). Or you could walk from the train station up the Nietzsche Path to the village (90 minutes at least): high heels are not allowed, and the trek isn’t advised in the dark.
Visitor Information
Èze Tourist Office.
| Pl. du Général de Gaulle | 04–93–41–26–00 | www.eze-tourisme.com.
Exploring
Jardin Exotique.
Set 1,310 feet above sea level, the Jardin Exotique is one of the Riviera’s most visited sites. Full of rare succulents and Jean-Philippe Richard sculptures, the botanical garden is also blessed with superlative views: from this crest-top locale you can pan all the way from Italy to St-Tropez (on a clear day, you can even see Corsica). In 2014, it expanded on the northern slope, where you can now stroll amid typical Mediterranean vegetation. Just a few feet from the entrance, take a time-out lunch at the Nid d’Aigle, an inexpensive eatery featuring focaccias and salads, quaintly set on stone levels rising up around a tall tree. | 20 rue du Château | 04–93–41–10–30 | €6; €15 combined visit with Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild | Feb. and Mar., daily 9–5; Apr. and May, daily 9–6; June and Sept., daily 9–7; July and Aug., daily 9–7:30; Oct., daily 9–5:30; Nov.–Jan., daily 9–4:30.
Where to Eat and Stay
La Table de Patrick Raingeard.
$$$$ | FRENCH | For more than 50 years, celebs holidayed and dined at Cap Estel in Èze, a private 2-hectare peninsula with all-encompassing views of the Med. And now, with chef Patrick Raingeard, whose produce comes directly from the hotel’s garden, the dining here can’t get any better. Start with the asparagus salad with creamy cauliflower and wild truffles, followed by the Charolais beef fillet à la Parillada in a “Los Lobos” red-wine sauce served with a potato-and-truffle cake. Finish it off with a banana soufflé. Vegetarian options are also available. Lunch set menus are a good value. | Average main: €48 | 1312 av. Raymond-Poincaré | 04–93–76–29–29 | www.capestel.com | No credit cards | Closed Jan. and Feb.
Troubadour.
$$$ | FRENCH | Amid the clutter and clatter of the nearby coast, Troubadour is a wonderful find (and has been for more than 30 years), earning high ratings for charm and style. This old family house in the Old Town provides pleasant service and excellent dishes like roasted scallops with chicken broth and squab with citrus zest. There’s a €40 set menu at lunch and dinner. | Average main: €30 | 4 rue du Brec | 04–93–41–19–03 | Closed Sun. and Mon., and Nov. 20–Dec. 20.
Fodor’s Choice | Château de la Chèvre d’Or.
$$$$ | HOTEL | The “Château of the Golden Goat” is actually an entire stretch of the village, streets and all, bordered by gardens that hang from the mountainside in nearly Babylonian style; in addition to divine accommodations, it delivers some of the most breathtaking Mediterranean views—at a price. The fanciest guest rooms feature peasant-luxe fireplaces, faux 15th-century panel paintings, and chandeliered rock-grotto bathrooms; nearly all rooms, though, have exposed stone and beams, and even the cheapest have views over Èze’s charming tile roofs (but you’ll kick yourself if you don’t pay the extra for the sea views). There are no fewer than four restaurants, ranging from the semi-affordable grill to a grand haute gastronomique dining room with panoramic vistas and a pair of Michelin stars. Linger over breakfast (€32) on a spectacular terrace that seems to levitate over the bay; then take a swim in the pool, which clings like a swallow’s nest to the hillside. Giving further substance to Riviera fairy tales, liveried footmen greet you at the village entrance and wave you, VIP-style, past the cattle drive of tourists. Pros: breathtaking views; fabulous infinity pool; faultless service. Cons: €61 cancellation fee in all cases; no elevator; some en-suites are on different levels; cobblestone walking involved to reach hotel. | Rooms from: €420 | Rue du Barri | 04–92–10–66–66 | www.chevredor.com | Closed Dec.–Feb. | 31 rooms, 8 suites | No meals.
Roquebrune–Cap-Martin
5 km (3 miles) east of Monaco.
Amid the frenzy of overbuilding that defines this last gasp of the coast before Italy, two twinned havens have survived, each in its own way: the perched Vieille Ville of Roquebrune, which gives its name to the greater area, and Cap-Martin—luxurious, isolated, exclusive, and the once-favored retreat of the Empress Eugénie and Winston Churchill. With its lovely tumble of raked tile roofs and twisting streets, fountains, archways, and quiet squares, Roquebrune retains many of the charms of a hilltop village, although it has become heavily gentrified and commercialized. Rue Moncollet is lined with arcaded passageways and a number of medieval houses. Somerset Maugham—who once memorably described these environs as a “sunny place for shady people”—resided in the town’s famous Villa Mauresque (still private) for many years.
Getting Here and Around
Regional trains run direct between Cannes (70 minutes; €10.30) or Nice to Carnolès, a stop closer to Menton. From the Roquebrune–Cap-Martin train station, it’s a one-hour hike up to the perched village or a €20 taxi ride. The Nice–Menton Bus No. 100, which runs from the bus station in Nice every 15 minutes (€1.50), also stops in the lower part of Roquebrune.
Visitor Information
Roquebrune-Cap-Martin Tourist Office. | 218 av. Aristide Briand, | Roquebrune-Cap-Martin | 04–93–35–62–87 | www.roquebrune-cap-martin.com.
Beaches
Plage de la Buse.
The entirely public Plage de la Buse is a wonderfully small, fine-pebble beach, with few star-chasers and strutting high heels, and it’s great for novice swimmers. It’s lovely to be protected from the elements by the curved south-facing wall of a huge villa (whose gardens add a lovely tropical feel). Access is just down a few steps from Le Corbusier trail, but it’s completely BYO: towel, umbrella, lunch, and water/drinks (there’s no toilet). Amenities: showers. Best for: solitude; swimming. | Sentier du Corbusier, | Roquebrune-Cap-Martin.
Where to Stay
Les Deux Frères.
$ | B&B/INN | Magnificently situated and oozing with charm (almost as much as the owner), this whitewashed 1854 schoolhouse has been transformed into an inn overlooking the sea. Every room was renovated in 2013 to represent a chic simplicity that does not overpower the views of the hotel. The restaurant has set-price menus only (€28 for lunch including half a bottle of wine per person, €53 for dinner) and offers ambitious and generous French cooking, either indoors by the crackling fireplace or on the terrace overlooking the whole of the Côte d’Azur. Homemade terrines, herbed lamb, and good cheeses and pastries draw a local clientele for picturesque culinary excursions. Pros: Dutch owner Willem is worth the stay alone; clean and excellently priced; Fraise & Chocolat café next door; Wi-Fi and parking free. Cons: small rooms; breakfast not included (€9). | Rooms from: €75 | 1 pl. des Deux Frères, | Roquebrune | 04–93–28–99–00 | www.lesdeuxfreres.com | Restaurant closed Mon., and mid-Nov.–mid-Dec. No dinner Sun.; no lunch Tues. | 8 rooms | No meals.
Menton
1 km (½ mile) east of Roquebrune; 9 km (5½ miles) east of Monaco.
The most Mediterranean of the French resort towns, Menton rubs shoulders with the Italian border and owes some of its balmy climate to the protective curve of the Ligurian shore. Its Cubist skew of terra-cotta roofs and yellow-ocher houses, Baroque arabesques capping the church facades, and ceramic tiles glistening on their steeples, all evoke the villages of the Italian coast. Yet there’s a whiff of influence from Spain, too, in its fantastical villas, exotic gardens, and whimsical patches of ceramic color, and a soupçon of Morocco, Corsica, and Greece. It is, in fact, the best of all Mediterranean worlds—and humble to boot: Menton is the least pretentious of the Côte d’Azur resorts, and all the more alluring for its modesty (though it can be quite a sleepy place compared to Nice, Antibes, or Cannes).
Its near-tropical climate and 316 days of sunshine a year nurture orange and lemon trees that hang heavy with fruit in winter. There’s another Florida parallel: the warmth attracts flocks of senior citizens who warm their bones far from northern fog and ice. Thus a large population of elderly visitors basks on its waterfront benches and browses its downtown shops. But Menton has a livelier, younger side, too (there’s even a tango festival every July), and the farther you penetrate toward the east, the more intriguing and colorful it becomes.
Getting Here and Around
Trains run all day from Nice and Monaco. There are a couple of bus options: Lignes d’Azur No. 100 from Menton to Nice ($1.50; 1 hour) or the No. 110 airport express (stopping at Monte-Carlo Casino) is an hour and costs €20 one-way. To get to Monaco via Roquebrune it’s Zest Ligne No. 21, or if passing through Beausoleil, take Bus No. 18 (also €1.50).
Visitor Information
Menton Tourist Office. | Le Palais de l’Europe, 8 av. Boyer | 04–92–41–76–76 | www.tourisme-menton.fr.
Tours
Heritage Tours.
Menton acquaints you with is rich architectural heritage by offering regular visites due patrimoine (heritage tours) to its gardens, cemetery, museums, and villas. Details about each tour (including points and time of departure) can be found at the Menton tourist office or the Maison du Patrimonie. | 24 rue St.-Michel | 04–92–10–97–10 | www.tourisme-menton.fr | From: €6.
Festival de Musique (Chamber Music Festival).
During the first two weeks of August, the Festival de Musique classical concerts take place at four locations around town, including the stone-paved plaza outside the church of St-Michel. Tickets can be purchased for €10 from the tourist office at 8 avenue Boyer. | Menton | 04–92–41–76–95 | www.festival-musique-menton.fr.
Fête du Citron (Lemon Festival).
The Fête du Citron, running from mid-February through the first week of March, is a full-blown lemon love-in: citrus floats and sculptures, all made of real fruit, glide through town, and musicians are on hand with entertainment. Think of it as France’s answer to the Rose Bowl Parade. | Menton | 04–92–41–76–95 | www.fete-du-citron.com.
Exploring
The Côte d’Azur was famed for its panoply of grand villas and even grander gardens built by Victorian dukes, Spanish exiles, Belgian royals, and American blue bloods. Although its hothouse crescent blooms everywhere with palm and lemon trees and jungle flowers, nowhere else does it bloom so extravagantly than in Menton, famous for its temperate climes and 24-karat sun.
Top Attractions
Basilique St-Michel.
This majestic basilica dominates the skyline of Menton. Beyond the beautifully proportioned facade—a 19th-century addition—the richly frescoed nave and chapels contain several works by Genovese artists plus a splendid 17th-century organ. Volunteers man the doors here, so you may have to wait for the church to open before visiting. | Parvis St-Michel, 22 rue St-Michel | Weekdays 10–noon and 2–5.
Chapelle de l’Immaculée-Conception.
Just above the main church, the smaller Chapelle de l’Immaculée-Conception answers St-Michel’s grand gesture with its own pure Baroque beauty. The sanctuary, dating to 1687, is typically closed to the public; however, you can try and slip in to see the graceful trompe-l’oeil over the altar and the ornate gilt lanterns early penitents carried in processions. | Pl. de la Conception.
Jardins Biovès (Biovès Gardens).
Directly in front of the tourist office, the broad tropical Jardins Biovès stretch 800 meters (2,600 feet) across the breadth of the center, sandwiched between two avenues. Its symmetrical flower beds, exotic trees, sculptures, and fountains representing the spiritual heart of town are free to visit, except during the Fête du Citron, when they display giant sculptures constructed out of 15 tons of citrus fruit, and also at Christmas, when it has a more festive feel. | 8 av. Boyer.
Marché Couvert (Covered Market).
Between the lively pedestrian Rue St-Michel and the waterfront, the marvelous Marché Couvert (Les Halles) sums up Menton style with its Belle Époque facade decorated in jewel-tone ceramics. It’s equally appealing inside, with merchants selling chewy bread and mountains of cheese, oils, fruit, and Italian delicacies daily (on Saturday, clothing is also sold). Be sure to try barbbajuans, the local dish of fried vegetables and rice. | Quai de Monléon.
Musée des Beaux Arts (Musée de Beaux-Arts).
At the far west end of town stands the 18th-century Palais Carnolès in vast gardens luxuriant with orange, lemon, and grapefruit trees. This was once the summer retreat of the princes of Monaco; nowadays it contains a sizable collection of European paintings from the Renaissance to the present day, plus some interesting temporary exhibits. | 3 av. de la Madone | 04–93–35–49–71 | Free | Wed.–Mon. 10–noon and 2–6.
Fodor’s Choice | Musée Jean Cocteau.
On the waterfront opposite the market, a squat medieval bastion crowned with four tiny watchtowers houses this extraordinary museum, France’s memorial to the eponymous artist-poet-filmmaker (1889–1963). Cocteau spotted the fortress, built in 1636 to defend the port, as the perfect site for a group of his works. While the museum has nearly 1,800 oeuvres graphiques, about 990 are original Cocteaus, a donation from the late California businessman and Holocaust survivor Severin Wunderman’s personal collection. This is a must-see. | 2 quai Monléon, Vieux Port | 04–89–81–52–50 | museecocteaumenton.fr | €8 | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.
Place aux Herbes.
Right by the market, the pretty little Place aux Herbes is a picturesque spot for a pause on a park bench, a drink, or a meal in the deep shade of the plane trees. | Menton.
Serre de la Madone.
With a temperate microclimate created by its southeastern and sunny exposure, Menton attracted a great share of wealthy horticultural hobbyists, including Major Lawrence Johnston, a gentleman gardener best known for his Cotswolds wonderland, Hidcote Manor. He wound up buying a choice estate in Gorbio—one of the loveliest of all perched seaside villages, 10 km (6 miles) west of Menton—and spent the 1920s and 1930s making the Serre de la Madone a masterpiece. Johnston brought back exotica from his many trips to South Africa, Mexico, and China, and planted them in a series of terraces, accented by little pools, vistas, and stone steps. While most of his creeping plumbago, pink belladona, and night-flowering cacti are now gone, his garden has been reopened by the municipality. If you don’t have a car, you can reach it from Menton via Bus No. 7. | 74 rte. de Gorbio | 04–93–57–73–90 | www.serredelamadone.com | €8 | Apr.–Oct., Tues.–Sun. 10–6; Dec.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 10–5.
Worth Noting
Casino Barrière.
Relaunched as a modern “downtown recreation complex,” the Casino Barrière reopened in 2015 after a €3.23 million renovation. The huge bay windows with sea views may distract you from the slot machines. | 2 av. Félix-Faure | 04–93–10–16–16 | www.lucienbarriere.com | Weekdays 10 am–3 am, weekends 10 am–4 am.
Cimetière du Vieux-Château (Old Château Cemetery).
High above the Parvis St-Michel, the Cimetière du Vieux-Château lies on the terraced plateau where once stood a medieval castle. The Victorian graves here are arranged by nationality, with an entire section dedicated to Russian royalty. The birth and death dates often attest to the ugly truth: even Menton’s balmy climate couldn’t reverse the ravages of tuberculosis. | Ch. du Trabuquet.
Hôtel de Ville.
The 19th-century Italianate Hôtel de Ville conceals a treasure by painter Jean Cocteau: he decorated the Salle des Mariages (Marriage Room) with vibrant allegorical scenes; today it is used for civil marriages. | 17 av. de la République | €2 | Weekdays 8:30–noon and 2–4:30.
Quick Bites: Central Park Coffee.
Refuel at the bagel and burger bar at this café, not far from the Salle des Marriages. Pretty rare for France, it serves fish ‘n’ chips, BBQ pork ribs, Manhattan salad … well, it is themed after that famous café in “Friends.” So you’ll also find large frothy coffees, Oreo sundaes, Nutella cake (and so many other delectable delights). | 2 rue du Vieux Collège | 04–89–97–21–16 | Closed Sun. and Mon. afternoon.
Parvis St-Michel.
Up a set of grand tiered stairs that lead from the Quai Bonaparte, the Parvis St-Michel is a broad plaza paved in some 250,000 round white and gray stones patterned in the coat of arms of the Grimaldi family. The plaza was created in the 17th century by Prince Honoré II; the letter H is mingled into the design as a kind of signature at the base of his great gift to the city. | Menton.
Promenade du Soleil.
Stroll the length of Menton’s famous beachfront along the Promenade du Soleil: broad, white, and studded with palm trees. | Menton.
Quai Napoléon III.
To get a feel for the territory, start your exploration at the far east end of the Vieille Ville and walk out to the end of the Quai Napoléon III, jutting far out into the water. Above the masts of pleasure boats, all of Menton spreads over the hills, and the mountains of Italy loom behind. | Menton.
Rue St-Michel.
Serving as the main commercial artery of the Vieille Ville, Rue St-Michel is lined with shops, cafés, and orange trees. | Menton.
Val Rahmeh Botanical Garden.
Green-thumbers will want to visit Menton’s Val Rahmeh Botanical Garden—especially in the fall when the hibiscus and brugmansias are in bloom. Planted by Maybud Campbell in the 1910s and much prized by connoisseurs, it’s bursting with rare ornamentals and subtropical plants, and adorned with water-lily pools and fountains. The tourist office can also give you directions to other gorgeous gardens around Menton, including the Fontana Rosa, the Villa Maria Serena, and the Villa Les Colombières. | Av. St-Jacques | 04–92–10–97–10 | €6 | May–Aug., Wed.–Mon. 10–12:30 and 3:30–6:30; Sept.–Apr., Wed.–Mon. 10–12:30 and 2–5.
Where to Eat and Stay
Fodor’s Choice | Mirazur.
$$$$ | MODERN FRENCH | Avant-garde French cuisine by an Argentinian-Italian chef? At Mirazur—an innovative restaurant on the border of France and Italy that’s earned two Michelin stars and is ranked No. 11 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list—it makes complete sense. Chef Mauro Colagreco learned his craft in Latin America before acquiring a solid French base with the likes of Bernard Loiseau in Burgundy and both Alain Passard and Alain Ducasse in Paris. Now he is a perfect example of the wave of young chefs whose style has been dubbed la jeune cuisine; for Colagreco, the plate is a palette, and each ingredient has its precise place and significance. Overlooking a cascading tropical garden and the sea, his airy dining room on Menton’s outer edge makes the ideal setting for this expressive cooking. Set menus start at €85 (€55 at lunch, weekdays) and go up to €140. | Average main: €49 | 30 av. Aristide Briand | 04–92–41–86–86 | www.mirazur.fr | Closed Mon. and Tues. mid-Feb.–Oct. No lunch Mon. and Tues. mid-July–Aug. | Reservations essential.
Hôtel Lemon.
$ | HOTEL | Subtropical gardens and 19th-century architecture are two of Menton’s main attractions, and this hotel a few minutes’ walk from the train station gives you a taste of both and at prices rarely seen along the Riviera. The owners are green-friendly and use recycled furniture, organic paint and cleaning supplies, and—a first—recycling in the hotel. Lemon trees and centuries-old palm trees shade the courtyard where breakfast (€6.50), using local and organic products, is served. Pros: plenty of charm at rock-bottom prices; a few blocks from the sea; rooms are basic but tasteful. Cons: street parking can be difficult; street can be noisy; no air-conditioning. | Rooms from: €69 | 10 rue Albert 1er | 04–93–28–63–63 | www.hotel-lemon.com | No credit cards | 18 rooms | No meals.
Napoléon.
$$$$ | HOTEL | This elegantly modern hotel in Garavan—east of the town center toward Italy—is hard to beat when it comes to value, especially with the attentive service, a swimming pool and a fitness room, as well as the contemporary furnishings that make it feel like a luxury hotel even though it’s not. The breakfast buffet (€12), which can also be served in room, shows unusual attention to detail, and comes with delicious coffee. Each of the three suites is named after an artist who had an impact on Menton, such as painters Cocteau and Sutherland; sea-view rooms underwent renovations in 2013. It’s important to note the hotel is not affiliated with a not very reputable Plage Napoléon, but it does have an agreement with the neighboring Le Festival Plage. Pros: warm and efficient service; sea and mountain views from rooms on upper floors worth the price; accessible for those with mobility issues (grab bars, shower stools, etc.). Cons: a bit of a walk from the town center; parking can be difficult in high season. | Rooms from: €275 | 29 porte de France | 04–93–35–89–50 | www.napoleon-menton.com | 43 rooms, 3 suites | All meals.