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Exploring | Beaches | Where to Eat | Where to Stay | Nightlife and Performing Arts | Sports and the Outdoors | Shopping
176 km (110 miles) east of Aix-en-Provence; 33 km (20 miles) northeast of Cannes; 20 km (12½ miles) southwest of Monaco.
United with France only since 1860, Nice has its own history and atmosphere, which dates back 230,000 years. It was on Colline du Château (now château-less) and at the Plage des Ponchettes, in front of the Old Town, that the Greeks established a market port in 350 BC and named it Nikaia, which would become Marseilles’ chief coastal rival. The Romans established themselves a little later on the hills of Cimiez (Cemenelum), already previously occupied by Ligurians and Celts, and quickly overshadowed the waterfront port. After falling to the Saracen invasions, Nice regained power as an independent state, becoming an important port in the early Middle Ages.
So cocksure did it become that in 1388, Nice, along with the hill towns behind, effectively seceded from the county of Provence, under Louis d’Anjou, and allied itself with Savoie. Thus began its liaison with the House of Savoy, and through it with Piedmont and Sardinia, it was the Comté de Nice (Nice County). This relationship lasted some 500 years, tinting the culture, architecture, and dialect in rich Italian hues.
By the 19th century Nice was flourishing commercially, locked in rivalry with the neighboring shipping port of Genoa. Another source of income: the dawning of tourism, as first the English, then the Russian nobility, discovered its extraordinary climate and superb waterfront position. A parade of fine stone mansions and hotels closed into a nearly solid wall of masonry, separated from the smooth, round rocks of the beach by what was originally called the Camin deis Anglés (the English Way), which of course is now the famous Promenade des Anglais. This magnificent crescent, which is seeking UNESCO recognition, is one of the noblest in France. Many of Nice’s most delightful attractions—the Cours Saleya market, the Old Town streets, the Hotel Negresco, and the Palais Masséna—are on or close to this 10-km (6-mile) waterfront, making it the first stop for most visitors, while the redevelopment of Nice’s port, around the other side of the Colline du Château, makes it easier for amblers who want to take in the Genoese architecture or peruse the antiques at the Puces de Nice, now part of the Promenade des 100 Antiquaires, along Quai Papacino. Nice also has the distinction of the “Family Plus” label, with free strollers, play areas, and restaurants with child-friendly activities.
Getting Here and Around
Nice is the main point of entry into the French Riviera region. It’s home to the second-largest airport in France, which sits on a peninsula between Antibes and Nice, 6 km (4 miles) southwest of the city. From the airport, you can take a bus to almost anywhere.
There are a few options from the airport: to go to the center of Nice, take Bus No. 98 from either Terminal 1 or 2 (€6), which will take you to the main Gare Routière to Station J. C. Bermond, and from here you can transfer on to a number of lines that spider the city (but you’ll have to pay €1.50). If you plan on heading on via train, take Bus No. 99 from the airport (€6) or the backroad No. 23 (from Terminal 1 only; €1.50), both of which will take you to the main Gare SNCF train station on Avenue Thiers. From here you can access all the major coastal cities by train.
In Nice, the tram is the fast way to get around the city. The fare is €1.50, or you can buy a 24-hour multipass for €5 or seven days for €15. The most popular buses are the No. 100 (Monaco–Menton), No. 200 Antibes–Cannes, and No. 400 St-Paul-de-Vence and Vence, which are cheap (€1.50) but often crowded, especially in the summer—you may find you’ll have to wait for the next bus. Also, these are direct buses, which don’t make frequent stops so you can’t, as an example, take Bus No. 200 to the airport. Remember to wave your hand, like you would hail a cab, to indicate to the bus driver that you want to get on.
Hop on one of the city’s 1,750 blue bikes (Vélo Bleu) available at 175 stations across town, and over to Cagnes-sur-mer. There are designated bike paths in the city and along the Promenade as far as Antibes. It’s only €1 per day or €5 per week and you can sign up with any cellphone (international numbers included) or look for the few stations that accept credit cards directly. Contact Vélobleu (04–93–72–06–06 | www.velobleu.org).
Greenrent, France’s first electric car–rental company, offers competitive rates with the added bonus of delivery and pick-up service. Or, if you’re looking for something a little more vintage—say, a Riviera road trip in one of Southern Europe’s largest private collection of classic cars—go to Rent a Classic Car. They’ll even arrange for an airport pickup (or if you’re Brad and Angelina, drive a 1967 Citroën DC Cabriolet “Chapron” in Malta to be used for a film shoot).
Car Rental Contacts
Greenrent. | 6 bis Meyerbeer | 09–83–80–98–16 | www.greenrent.fr.
Rent a Classic Car. | Promenade des Anglais | www.rentaclassiccar.com.
Visitor Information
Nice Tourist Office. | 5 promenade des Anglais | 08–92–70–74–07 | www.nicetourism.com.
Festivals
Nice Carnaval.
The world’s third-largest Carnaval celebration draws 600,000 spectators toits free and paid events for all ages in Place Masséna along the Promenade, and includes 20 €30,000 floats over a series of parades. This massive themed event is held for 15 days, culminating on Mardi Gras, with the burning of the King as the finale. | Office du Tourisme, 5 promenade des Anglais | 08–92–70–74–07 | www.nicecarnaval.com.
Exploring
Vieux Nice
Framed by the “château”—really a rocky promontory—and Cours Saleya, the Old Town of Nice is its strongest drawing point and, should you only be passing through, the best place to capture the city’s historic feeling. Its grid of narrow streets, darkened by houses five and six stories high with bright splashes of laundry fluttering overhead and jewel-box Baroque churches on every other corner, creates a magic that seems utterly removed from the Côte d’Azur fast lane.
Until 2015, all municipal museums in Nice were free. Now there’s a €10 admission, unless you’re a resident of Nice. However, some entries allow you access to multiple musées, valid for 48 hours. For example, the Museum of Archaeology and the Museum of Natural History or the Fine Arts Museum and the Museum of Naïve Art. Alternatively, for €20, you can get a seven-day pass for all municipal museums or buy a French Riviera Pass.
Top Attractions
Cathédrale Ste-Réparate.
An ensemble of columns, cupolas, and symmetrical ornaments dominates the Vieille Ville, flanked by an 18th-century bell tower and glossy ceramic-tile dome. The cathedral’s interior, completely restored to a bright palette of ocher, golds, and rusts, has elaborate plasterwork and decorative frescoes on every surface. | 3 pl. Rossetti, Vieux Nice | www.cathedrale-nice.fr | Tues.–Fri. 9–noon and 2–6, Sat. 9–noon and 2–7:30, Sun. 9–1 and 3–6.
Chapelle de la Miséricorde.
A superbly balanced pièce-montée (wedding cake) of half-domes and cupolas, this chapel is decorated within an inch of its life with frescoes, faux marble, gilt, and crystal chandeliers. A magnificent altarpiece by Renaissance painter Ludivico Brea crowns the ensemble. | 7 cours Saleya, Vieux Nice | Tues. 2:30–5:30.
Chapelle Sainte-Rita (Église de l’Annonciation).
This 17th-century Carmelite chapel, officially known as the Église de l’Annonciation, is a classic example of pure Niçoise Baroque, from its sculpted door to its extravagant marble work and the florid symmetry of its arches and cupolas. | 1 rue de la Poissonerie, Vieux Nice | www.sainte-rita.net | Mon.–Sat. 7–noon and 2:30–6:30, Sun. 8–noon and 3–6:30.
Quick Bites: Les Causeries de Blandine.
Nothing brings on hunger like walking on cobblestones. Down the road from Ste-Réparate, you’ll find Les Causeries de Blandine, a welcoming tea and coffee shop with homemade quiche and tarts to provide a little sustenance. | 8 rue du Pont Vieux, Vieux Nice | 04–93–80–41–12.
Quick Bites: Glacier Fenocchio.
For fresh, homemade gelato-style ice cream offered in a rainbow of 100 flavors and colors, stop at Glacier Fenocchio any day of the week 9 am–midnight, March–November. There’s even a choice of locally grown citrus flavors, including orange, mandarin, and lemon—even beer! | 2 pl. Rossetti, Vieux Nice | 04–93–62–88–80 | www.fenocchio.fr.
Cours Saleya.
This long pedestrian thoroughfare—half street, half square—is the nerve center of Old Nice, the heart of the Vieille Ville, and the stage-set for the daily dramas of marketplace and café life. Framed with 18th-century houses and shaded by plane trees, the narrow square bursts into a show of color Tuesday–Sunday until 1 pm, when flower-market vendors roll armloads of mimosas, roses, and orange blossoms into cornets (paper cones) and thrust them into the arms of shoppers, who then awkwardly continue forward to discover a mix of local farmers and stallholders selling produce (try the fresh figs), spices, olives, and little gift soaps. Arrive early, especially in summer, to avoid being at the mercy of the crowd’s general movement (and a target for the rampant pickpockets). From June to September, 6 pm–midnight, there’s also an artisanal craft market selling jewelry, pottery, purses, and paintings. Cafés and restaurants, all more or less touristy (don’t expect friendly service, although Safari at No. 1 is an exception) fill outdoor tables with onlookers who bask in the sun. At the far east end, antiques and brocantes (collectibles) draw avid junk-hounds every Monday morning. At this end you can also find Place Charles Félix. From 1921 to 1938, Matisse lived in the imposing yellow stone building at No. 1, and you don’t really need to visit the local museum that bears his name to understand this great artist: simply stand in the doorway of his former home and study Place de l’Ancien Senat 10 feet away—the scene is a classic Matisse. | Cours Saleya, Vieux Nice.
Eglise du Gésù.
If Nice’s other chapels are jewel boxes, this is a barn. Broad, open, and ringing hollow after the intense concentration of sheer matter in the Miséricorde and Ste-Rita, it seems austere by comparison. That’s only because the decoration is spread over a more expansive surface. If it’s possible, this 17th-century Baroque chapel is even more theatrical and over the top than its peers. Angels throng in plaster and fresco, pillars spill over with extravagantly sculpted capitals, and from the pulpit (to the right, at the front) the crucifix is supported by a disembodied arm. | Corner of Rue Droite and Rue du Jésus | Sept.–June, daily 9–noon and 2–6; July and Aug., daily 9–noon and 2–midnight.
Musée d’Art Moderne.
The assertive contemporary architecture of the Modern Art Museum makes a bold statement regarding Nice’s presence in the modern world. The collection inside focuses intently and thoroughly on works from the late 1950s onward, but pride of place is given to sculptor Nikki de Saint Phalle’s recent donation of more than 170 exceptional pieces. The rooftop terrace, sprinkled with minimalist sculptures, has stunning views over the city. Guided tours are given by reservation Wednesday at 3 pm. | Promenade des Arts | 04–97–13–42–01 | www.mamac-nice.org | €10, guided tour €6 | Tues.–Sun. 10–6.
Palais Lascaris.
The aristocratic Lascaris Palace was built in 1648 for Jean-Baptiste Lascaris-Vintimille, marechal to the Duke of Savoy. The magnificent vaulted staircase, with its massive stone balustrade and niches filled with classical gods, is surpassed in grandeur only by the Flemish tapestries (after Rubens) and the extraordinary trompe-l’oeil fresco depicting the fall of Phaëthon. With a little luck, you’ll be in time for one of the many classical concerts performed here. | 15 rue Droite, Vieux Nice | 04–93–62–72–40 | www.palais-lascaris-nice.org | €10 | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.
Worth Noting
Cimetière du Château (Cemetery).
This solemn cluster of white tombs looms prominently over the city below, providing a serene or macabre detail of daily life, depending on your mood. Under Nice’s blue skies, the gleaming white marble and Italian mix of melodrama and exuberance in the decorations, dedications, photo portraits, and sculptures are somehow oddly life-affirming. Founded in 1783, there are 2,800 graves here—with prominent names like Jellinek-Mercedes and Leroux—in three sections, to this day segregating Catholics, Protestants, and Jews. | Allée François-Aragon.
Église St-Martin (Église St-Augustin).
This serene Baroque structure at the foot of the château anchors the oldest church-parish in Nice. Built in 1405, it was here that Martin Luther preached in 1510 and Garibaldi was baptized in 1807. | Rue Sincaire | Tues.–Sun., 8–noon and 2–6.
La Crypte Archéologique de Nice.
Via steel walkways, explore (by tour only) this half-acre archaeological crypt beneath Place Garibaldi, holding the remains of a 14th-century tower and aqueduct that were hidden underground for centuries. When Nice’s tram system was being built at the beginning of this century, excavators discovered medieval structures that had been razed by Louis XIV in 1706 and promptly forgotten. The Centre du Patrimoine (Heritage Center) offers one-hour guided tours for up to 15 people, but you must reserve with them directly at 75 quai Etats-Unis. The meeting point—Place Jacques Toja—is just off Place Garibaldi. TIP Bring “sensible shoes,” as heels can’t be worn in the crypt. | Pl. Jacques Toja, Vieux Nice | 3906 | €5 | Tours Wed.–Sun. at 10, 11, 2, 3, and 4.
Musée Terra Amata.
During the digging for the foundation of a building in 1966, the shovels revealed the remains of a temporary settlement once used by elephant hunters thousands of years ago. They were perhaps the oldest known inhabitants of Europe. Now the site is a museum reconstructing the ancient beach-camp known as Terra Amata (“beloved land”) as it was, lodgings and all. It incorporates a real human footprint, calcified in the sand. There are recorded commentaries in English; films explain the lifestyle of these earliest Europeans. If you enjoy anthropology, it’s worth a stop, but don’t expect a blockbuster expo: displays are small-scale and mainly limited to tiny models. | 25 bd. Carnot | 04–93–55–59–93 | www.musee-terra-amata.org | €10 | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.
Place Garibaldi.
Encircled by grand vaulted arcades stuccoed in rich yellow, the broad pentagon of this square could have been airlifted out of Turin. In the center, the shrinelike fountain sculpture of Garibaldi seems to be surveying you as you stroll under the very attractive arcades and lounge in the surrounding cafés. An antiques market takes over the square on the third Saturday of every month (8–5), but if antiques are your thing, you’re in the right place because the place is the start (or end) of La Promenade des 100 Antiquaires du Port de Nice, which runs down to the port. If you hear jackhammers, look no farther than Rue Catherine-Séguarane where work on Nice’s second tram line is in progress. | Vieux Nice.
Quick Bites: Café des Chineurs.
The best place to grab a bite in Place Garibaldi, this café has a romantic and eclectic feel that’s as appealing as the food and friendliness—and it’s a fabulous location for people watching. | 1 rue Cassini, Vieux Nice | 04–93–89–09–62.
Port de Nice.
In 1750 the Duke of Savoy ordered a port to be dug into the waterfront to shelter the approach of the city’s maritime traffic, and freight ships, fishing boats, and yachts still sail into its safe harbor today. The redevelopment of Nice’s port, around the other side of the château, paves an easier way for amblers who want to take in the Genoese architecture in this area, or peruse the antiques at the Puces de Nice along Quai Papacino. From June to mid-October, daily 10–7, the free shuttle Lou Passagin ferries you across the port from the Charles Felix dock to Quai d’Entrecasteaux. In early September, keep an eye out for the Fête du Port—a gastronomical explosion (and one of the rare occasions when you’ll witness the French walk and eat simultaneously) outmatched only by fire-eaters and fireworks. From the port, you can take Bus No. 14 to visit the 16th-century Fort du Mont-Alban, which has exceptional views of Bordighera, and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat all the way over to Baie des Anges (those crazy circular buildings) and Antibes. In September 2015 major works for Nice’s second tram line commenced in the port. This has resulted in rerouted buses, the rat-tat-tat-tat of jackhammers, and inaccessible sidewalks and streets that will likely last until 2018. | Vieux Nice.
Along the Promenade des Anglais
Nice takes on a completely different character west of Cours Saleya, with broad city blocks, vast neoclassical hotels and apartment houses, and a series of inviting parks dense with palm trees, greenery, and splashing fountains. From the Jardin Albert Ier, once the delta of the Paillon River, the famous Promenade des Anglais stretches the length of the city’s waterfront.
The original promenade was the brainchild of Lewis Way, an English minister in the growing community of British refugees drawn to Nice’s climate. They needed a proper walkway on which to take the sea air, and pooled resources to build a 6½-foot-wide road meandering through an alley of shade trees. Nowadays it’s a wide, multilane boulevard thick with traffic—in fact, it’s the last gasp of the coastal highway N98. Beside it runs its charming parallel, the wide, sun-washed pedestrian walkway with intermittent steps leading down to the smooth-rock beach; its foundation is a seawall that keeps all but the wildest storms from sloshing waves over the promenade. A daily parade of promeneurs, rollerbladers, joggers, moms with strollers, dog walkers, and sun-baskers vie for their piece of the pavement while looking out over the hypnotic blue expanse of the sea, often getting entangled and exchanging barbs, so beware when getting off the bus and crossing over the bike path to the sea. It used to be possible in the wee hours to enjoy the waterfront stroll as the cream of Nice’s international society did, when there were nothing more than hoofbeats to compete with the roar of the waves, but these days in the early morning, you’ll mostly encounter rowdy drunks, strewn garbage, and copulating couples on the beach.
TIP The French Riviera Pass is your ticket to museums, gardens, and transportation in Nice; included are guided tours, wine tasting, as well as seven attractions in nearby towns like the oceanography museum in Monaco, the exotic gardens in Èze, and the Ephrussi de Rothschild villa and garden on Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. The passes are available for 24 hours (€26), 48 hours (€38), or 72 hours (€56) and can be purchased at the tourist office or online from en.frenchrivierapass.com.
Top Attractions
Colline du Château (Château Hill).
Although nothing remains of the once-massive medieval stronghold but a few ruins left after its 1706 dismantling, the name “château” still applies to this high plateaulike park, from which you can take in extraordinary views of the Baie des Anges, the length of Promenade des Anglais, and the red-ocher roofs of the Old Town. Children can let off steam at the playground, while you enjoy a picnic with panoramic views and a bit of shade. You can take the 213 steps up to it, or the free elevator next to the Hotel Suisse; alternatively, ascend the hill slower from the port side, near Place Garibaldi, which is a more gentle climb. However, thanks to an ambitious plan by the city’s mayor, a renovation project is in the works until 2017, which will see a more contemporary, larger esplanade with a reflective pool, similar to the Promenade de Paillon. For tourists, this translates into partial closures at times and noise, but don’t let this spoil the view. | Promenade des Anglais, east end, Centre Ville | Free | June–Aug., daily 8–8; Apr., May, and Sept., daily 8–7; Oct.–Mar., daily 8–6.
Jardin Albert Ier (Albert I Garden).
Along Promenade des Anglais, this luxurious garden stands over the delta of the River Paillon, underground since 1882. Every kind of flower and palm tree grows here, thrown into exotic relief by night illumination. Home base for many city festivals with its Théâtre de Verdure and also Ciné Prom in the summer (screenings of box office hits at 7:30 pm), the garden is the starting point for Nice’s Promenade du Paillon. | 2–16 av. de Verdun, New Town | Free | 24 hrs daily.
Musée des Beaux-Arts (Jules-Chéret Fine Arts Museum).
Originally built for a member of Nice’s Old Russian community, the Princess Kotschoubey, this Italianate mansion is a Belle Époque wedding cake, replete with one of the grandest staircases on the coast. After the richissime American James Thompson took over and the last glittering ball was held here, the villa was bought by the municipality as a museum in the 1920s. Unfortunately, many of the period features were sold; but in its place are paintings by Degas, Boudin, Monet, Sisley, Dufy, and Jules Chéret, whose posters of winking damselles distill all the joie of the Belle Époque. From the Hôtel Negresco area the museum is about a 15-minute walk up a gentle hill. | 33 av. des Baumettes, New Town | 04–92–15–28–28 | www.musee-beaux-arts-nice.org | €10 | Tues.–Sun. 10–6.
Musée Masséna (Masséna Palace).
This spectacular Belle Époque villa houses the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire (Museum of Art and History), where familiar paintings from French, Italian, and Dutch masters line the walls. A visit to the palace gardens, a park set with towering palm trees, a marble bust of the handsome General Masséna, and backdropped by the ornate trim of the Hôtel Negresco, is a delight; this is one of Nice’s most imposing oases. | 65 rue de France, New Town | 04–93–91–19–10 | €10 | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.
Place Masséna.
As Cours Saleya is the heart of the Vieille Ville, so this impressive and broad square is the heart of the entire city. It’s framed by early 17th-century, Italian-style arcaded buildings, their facades stuccoed in rich red ocher. This enticing space hosts an event at least once a month, from Carnaval to the Christmas market; Promenade du Paillon runs through it. | Pl. Masséna, Centre Ville.
Promenade de Paillon.
Running parallel behind the Old Town, from the Museum of Modern Art to the Théâtre de Verdure, is Nice’s emerald jewel—the Promenade de Paillon, a €40-million, 30-acre park. Inaugurated in 2013, it serves as a playground for kids, a refuge for adults (who take advantage of the free Wi-Fi), and a venue for many of the city’s one-off events, like April Fool’s Day (in French, Poisson d’Avril, or “fish day”). No matter when you arrive, there’s plenty to photograph here. At the east end of the Prom, you’ll find Nice’s own Statue of Liberty (look carefully, she’s only 4½-feet tall!). Toward the west, construction of the city’s controversial second tram line (T2) is underway, parts of which run parallel to the sea; disruptions and partial closures of the Prom are inevitable until 2018. | Promenade de Paillon, Centre Ville | Apr.–Sept., daily 7 am–11 pm; Oct.–Mar., daily 7 am–9 pm.
Worth Noting
Le Ruhl Casino Barrière Nice.
Renovated to the tune of €5 million, Le Ruhl now lures in the summer vacationers and the winter convention crowd with vivid colors and fiber-optic lighting. Some sign into the hushed gaming room for roulette and blackjack, others try their luck at one of the 300-some slot machines. | 1 promenade des Anglais, New Town | 04–97–03–12–22 | www.lucienbarriere.com | July and Aug., daily 9 am–5 am; Sept.–June, daily 9 am–4 am.
Cimiez
Once the site of the powerful Roman settlement Cemenelum, the hilltop neighborhood of Cimiez—4 km (2½ miles) north of Cours Saleya—is Nice’s most luxurious quarter. Villas seem in competition to outdo each other in opulence, and the combination of important art museums, Roman ruins, and a historic monastery make it worth a day’s exploration. To visit Cimiez and nearby museums, you need to combine a bus pass or taxi fare with strong legs and comfortable shoes. If you brave the route by car, arm yourself with a map and a navigator. Bus No. 15 from Place Masséna or Avenue Jean-Médecin takes you to both the Chagall and Matisse museums; from the latter you can visit the ruins and monastery.
Top Attractions
Monastère de Cimiez.
This fully functioning monastery is worth the pilgrimage. You can find a lovely garden, replanted along the lines of the original 16th-century layout; the Musée Franciscain, a didactic museum tracing the history of the Franciscan order; and a 15th-century church containing three works of remarkable power and elegance by Bréa. | Pl. du Monastère, Cimiez | 04–93–81–00–04 | Free | Church Thurs.–Tues. 9–6, Sun. after 10:30 Mass–6; museum Mon.–Sat. 10–noon and 3–5:30.
Fodor’s Choice | Musée Matisse.
In the ‘60s the city of Nice bought this lovely, light-bathed 17th-century villa, surrounded by the ruins of Roman civilization, and restored it to house a large collection of Henri Matisse’s works. Matisse settled along Nice’s waterfront in 1917, seeking a sun cure after a bout with pneumonia, and remained here until his death in 1954. During his years on the French Riviera, Matisse maintained intense friendships and artistic liaisons with Renoir, who lived in Cagnes, and with Picasso, who lived in Mougins and Antibes. He eventually moved up to the rarefied isolation of Cimiez and took an apartment in the Hôtel Regina (now an apartment building, just across from the museum), where he lived out the rest of his life. Matisse walked often in the parklands around the Roman remains and was buried in an olive grove outside the Cimiez cemetery. The collection of artworks includes several pieces the artist donated to the city before his death; the rest were donated by his family. In every medium and context—paintings, gouache cutouts, engravings, and book illustrations—the collection represents the evolution of his art, from Cézanne-like still lifes to exuberant dancing paper dolls. Even the furniture and accessories speak of Matisse, from the Chinese vases to the bold-printed fabrics with which he surrounded himself. A series of black-and-white photographs captures the artist at work, revealing telling details. Note that you can’t get into the museum with a backpack or travel bag. | 164 av. des Arènes-de-Cimiez, Cimiez | 04–93–81–08–08 | www.musee-matisse-nice.org | €10; €6 extra for guided tour in English | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.
Musée National Marc Chagall (Marc Chagall Museum of Biblical Themes).
Inaugurated in 1973, this museum has one of the finest permanent collections of Chagall’s late works (1887–1985). Superbly displayed, 17 vast canvases depict biblical themes, each in emphatic, joyous colors. Chamber music and classical concert series also take place here, though admission fees may apply. Bus Nos. 15 and 22 stop at the museum. The museum is scheduled to reopen after restoration works in early 2016, although no date has been set. | Av. du Dr-Ménard, Cimiez | 04–93–53–87–20 | www.musee-chagall.fr | €8 (€9.50 with temporary exhibition) | May–Oct., Wed.–Mon. 10–6; Nov.–Apr., Wed.–Mon. 10–5.
Worth Noting
Musée Archéologique (Archaeology Museum).
This museum, next to the Musée Matisse, has a dense collection of objects extracted from digs around the Roman city of Cemenelum, which flourished from the 1st to the 5th century. Among the fascinating ruins are an amphitheatre, frigidarium, gymnasium, baths, and sewage trenches, some dating back to the 3rd century. TIP It’s best to avoid midday visits on warm days. | 160 av. des Arènes-de-Cimiez, Cimiez | 04–93–81–59–57 | www.musee-archeologique-nice.org | €10 | Wed.–Mon. 10–6.
Beaches
Nice’s beaches—25 public and 15 private—extend all along the Baie des Anges, backed full-length by the Promenade des Anglais and a thriving and sophisticated downtown. This leads to the peculiar phenomenon of seeing power-suited executives and secretaries stripping down to a band of Lycra, tanning over the lunch hour, then suiting back up for the afternoon’s work a block or two away. The absence of sand (there’s nothing but those famous Riviera pebbles, les galets) helps maintain that dress-for-success look. The downside of the location: the otherwise stylish streets downtown tend to fill up with underdressed, sunburned tourists caked with salt during beach season.
Posh private beaches (which sometimes share the name of public beaches) have full restaurants and bar service, color-coordinated mattresses and beach umbrellas, and ranks of tanners with phones glued to their ears. Several of the beaches lure clients with waterskiing, parasailing, windsurfing, and Jet-Skiing; if you’re looking for a particular sport, check the signs posted at the entrance with the restaurant menus. Fees for private beaches average €17–€22 for a dressing room and mattress and some charge up to €4 for a parasol. Private beaches alternate with open stretches of public frontage served by free toilets and open “showers” (a cold elevated faucet for rinsing off salt). Enterprising vendors cruise the waterfront, hawking ice cream, slabs of melon, coffee, ice-cold sodas, and beer. An excellent beachside read is They Eat Horses Don’t They: The Truth about the French, by Piu Marie Eatwell. This in-depth look at French myths gives you the skinny on French women, sex and infidelity, music, and month-long August holidays, among other captivating subjects.
From mid-June to mid-September, all private and public beaches have lifeguards on duty (9–6:30). Check the flags to see if it’s safe to swim: yellow means the water quality is poor (blue is good), an orange flag means danger (from waves or jellyfish), red means no swimming. Jellyfish have an unpredictable presence so keep an ear open for the word “méduse” or look for it on the sign boards to know if they’re around that day. One helpful website for sightings is meduse.acri.fr/carte/carte.php.
Beau Rivage Beach.
Across from the Cours Saleya, Beau Rivage Plage claims to be the Riviera’s largest private beach and has a split personality. On the Zen side, topless sunseekers can rent a cushy lounge chair with umbrella from €25, while at the more sceney Trend zone, bathers enjoy cocktails and tapas, and spending €150 buys the VIP treatment: a double bed, fruit bowl, bottle of wine, and demi-bouteille of Tattinger Champagne. The beach is stone, which means water shoes are advisable. Amenities: food and drink; showers; toilets. Best for: sunset; swimming. | 107 quai des États-Unis | 04–92–00–46–80 | www.plagenicebeaurivage.com.
Castel Plage.
At the east end of the promenade, near Hotel Suisse, there is both a large public beach and a private one, where the water is calm and clear (you can rent a lounger at the latter for about €24 with umbrella). The public beach is composed of large stones, which are more comfortable to walk on than pebbles. Jellyfish are also less of a problem in this corner than they are a little farther west, and lifeguards at the neighboring beach are on duty mid-June–mid-September. Amenities: showers. Best for: snorkeling; sunrise; sunset; swimming. | 8 quai des États-Unis.
Coco Beach.
East of the port and past La Réserve, just a few steps down from street level, lies one of the quieter beaches in Nice with very clear water, few tourists, and hardly any jellyfish. The catch? The beach is more slabs of rock than sand—this is where locals spread their towels for the day—forming a small crest along the coastline that is exposed to wind. Combine this with the fact that there are no lifeguards and you have the directive to be extra careful. Many fish move about below, making this an excellent place for snorkeling. Amenities: food and drink; parking (street); showers. Best for: snorkeling; solitude; swimming. | Av. Jean Lorrain.
Hi Beach.
This is the funkiest of the Nice private beaches and pro-green, with designs by Philippe Starck protégé Matali Crasset. A stone beach with packed rows of loungers (one with an umbrella will set you back €22 for the day), Hi Beach appeals to a young and family clientele here—but expect to see breasts all the same. Three Zones target any beachgoer: Hi Energy, Hi Relax, and, for the kids, Hi Play (€69 for a four-person Family House). Offerings include drinks, a full menu (with burgers and sushi, too), Hi Body for those in need of a massage, and beach yoga in English on summer mornings. Amenities: food and drink; showers; toilets. Best for: sunrise; sunset; swimming. | 47 promenade des Anglais | 04–97–14–00–83 | www.hi-beach.net.
Lenval and Magnan beaches.
Locals come early and with umbrellas, chairs, and coolers in tow to these two sizeable public beaches around the halfway point of the Promenade. Both beaches are stone and there’s the occasional méduse, so water shoes are best for getting in and out of the sea. Lenval is a nonsmoking beach; there are pay underground hot showers, toilets, and lockers, as well as portable toilets in the summer; there are no lifeguards nor a first aid station (but these are provided next door at Magnan, which is wider and lower than street level). This area is less tourist-dense, so expect to see many (too many) bare torsos. TIP When the winds pick up, this area can be dangerous, so watch for the wind-warning flags (and always avoid swimming for 24 hours after storms). Amenities: lifeguards; showers; toilets. Best for: sunrise; swimming. | Promenade des Anglais.
Ponchettes Beach.
Almost at the end of the Promenade and in front of the Old Town, this basic stony stretch is a popular spot in the summer with a melange of tourists and locals (they’re the topless ones) of all ages all day. In the summer there are sand-beach volleyball courts. Keep an eye out for jellyfish. Amenities: lifeguards; toilets. Best for: snorkeling; sunrise; sunset; swimming. | Quai des États-Unis.
Where to Eat
Attimi.
$ | ITALIAN | Specializing in salads, pizzas, and pastas—prepared on the spot from local produce—this place offers a refreshing, light alternative to all those heavy French dishes. But Attimi is as hot as the lasagna bolognese it serves, so you’ll need to reserve or eat early. A seat on the terrace next to the fountain at the end of Place Masséna lets you dine with a side order of people-watching. | Average main: €16 | 10 pl. Masséna, Centre Ville | 04–93–62–00–22 | www.attimi.fr | Reservations essential.
Café Marché.
$ | CAFÉ | This quaint café, behind Cours Saleya, doesn’t have views of the market, but the creamy café au lait and homemade baked goods more than compensate for its people-watching limitations. If you want more than a snack, you can order from one of the day’s three choices (including one that’s vegan). | Average main: €12 | 2 rue Barillerie, Vieux Nice | 09–81–84–92–49 | Closed Sat. Oct.–Apr.
Chantecler.
$$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | Long a showplace for Riviera luxury, the Negresco is replete with Régence-fashion salons decked out with 18th-century wood boiserie and Aubusson carpets. Its main dining room has been playing musical chefs for the past few years and currently features Chef Jean-Denis Rieubland, who worked in many of the French Riviera’s top restaurants before restoring the Chantecler to its former glory and earning two Michelin stars. Rieubland is not afraid to challenge local traditions with lusty dishes inspired by his native southwest France: typical of his style are roasted duckling with flat peaches, hazelnuts, and turnips glazed with honey, braised thighs flavored with verbena, or crab-and-mango cannellonis, citrus fruit marmalade, caviar, and combava-flavored cream. In the cave, there are 15,000 bottles (if you’re counting). | Average main: €72 | Hôtel Negresco, 37 promenade des Anglais, Promenade Nice | 04–93–16–64–00 | www.hotel-negresco-nice.com | Closed Sun. and Mon., and Jan. No lunch | Reservations essential | Jacket required.
Fodor’s Choice | Chez Pipo Socca.
$ | FRENCH | There are plenty of places where you can sample socca in the Old Town, but if you want to understand why so much fuss is made in Nice over this chickpea pancake, this out-of-the-way café behind the Port is the place to go. As is normal for making this recipe, a batter of chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and salt is baked in giant copper tins in a wood-fired oven, but here, the cook expertly scrapes the surface of the nearly-cooked dough with a metal spatula so that it comes out extra-crispy. It’s hard to explain why, but this is socca you can eat in large quantities even if you’re not hungry: proof is the line on weekend nights, when people are willing to wait an hour or more for their petite (€2.80), grande plates (€5.60) or three-course meal for €12–€15. For a shorter (or no) wait, show up around 5:30, when Pipo first opens for dinner,. | Average main: €13 | 13 rue Bavastro, Old Town/Port | 04–93–55–88–82 | www.chezpipo.fr | Closed Mon. No lunch Sun.
Co-t-Café.
$ | FRENCH | This brightly colored and vibrant local café, one block from the promenade and Hôtel Negresco, has the best coffee in Nice and one of the best breakfasts. Expect creamy lattés, iced coffees, cappuccinos, plus teas and smoothies, in all sizes, to stay or to go. Sandwiches, salads, and healthy wraps—superbly priced and made fresh each morning—are perfect for the beach. | Average main: €8 | 11 bis rue Meyerbeer, New Town | 04–93–16–09–84 | coffeeshop.co-t-cafe.com | Closed Dec.–Feb.
Flaveur.
$$$$ | MODERN FRENCH | Run by a young trio (two chefs and a maître d’) with a haute cuisine background, this modern Michelin-starred bistro is perpetually packed—which means you should book at least a week ahead for dinner and several days ahead for lunch. The key to the trio’s success is the heart that goes into their cooking: the limited menu changes often, and the chefs like to experiment with historical recipes such as petits farcis (stuffed vegetables) from a 19th-century cookbook. Their hand-cut steak tartare with chickpea fries and thick gazpacho has become a classic. You can sample the plat du moment at lunch for €34; at dinner, you’ll pay €65–€115 for a three-, four- or seven-course menu. | Average main: €60 | 25 rue Gubernatis, New Town | 04–93–62–53–95 | www.flaveur.net | Closed Sun. and Mon., and last 2 wks in Aug. No lunch Sat. | Reservations essential.
Fodor’s Choice | Le Canon.
$$ | FRENCH | Walking into this small restaurant, you can tell that this is the French dining experience people travel to Provence for, thanks to the low-key assemblage of chairs and tables that look like they came out of a 1970s-era attic, a handwritten menu on a board, and wine bottles as far as the eye can see. Owner Sébastien Perinetti and chef Elmahdi Mobarik source the freshest hyperlocal produce to bring you a parade of taste sensations, all seductively priced. Each selection is described by Sébastien in its entirety: a Sardinian “fregola” pasta with cuttlefish and peas from the fields of Saint-Isidore, with a peach soup made with white peaches from St-Martin-du-Var. It’s open weekdays only, so be sure to reserve in advance, and leave your impatience at the door—nothing comes hurriedly at Le Canon. | Average main: €24 | 23 rue Meyerbeer, New Town | 04–96–79–09–24 | Closed weekends | No credit cards.
La Femme du Boulanger.
$ | FRENCH | One word: breakfast. This is the place in Nice for freshly sliced country breads, a selection of mouth-watering Ö Jardin Sucré jams (say, raspberry and violet or apple-pear with hazelnut) and organic yogurts, all made in France. Sure, you can still have your flaky croissant, but here at the Baker’s Wife, the friendly (that’s right: friendly) owners, Bernard and Fanfan, deliver a toaster to your table, to grill the bread exactly to your liking. Throw in Alain Milliet vineyard juices and creamy café au lait, and you’ll be planning to come back tomorrow before you can wipe the jam off your chin. Give their lunch and dinner menus a try too, if you can get a table. | Average main: €15 | 3 rue Commandant Raffali, New Town | 04–89–03–43–03 | No credit cards.
La Merenda.
$$$ | FRENCH | The back-to-bistro boom climaxed here when Dominique Le Stanc retired his crown at the Negresco to take over this tiny, unpretentious landmark of Provençal cuisine. Now he works in the miniature open kitchen creating ultimate versions of stuffed sardines, tagliatelle with pistou, slow-simmered daubes (beef stews), and the quintessential stockfish (the local lutefisk), while his wife whisks the dishes into the dining room. There are two seatings at both lunch and dinner. You’ll have to stop by in person to reserve entry to the inner sanctum as there’s no phone—note that credit cards are not accepted either. | Average main: €27 | 4 rue Raoul Bosio, Vieux Nice | No credit cards | Closed weekends, 1st 2 wks in Aug. | Reservations essential.
La Part des Anges.
$$ | FRENCH | This wine shop with some 300 labels and a few tables and chairs at the back is really about vins naturels—unfiltered, unsulfured, hand-harvested wines from small producers—but the often-simple food served here also happens to be excellent. Whether you choose a charcuterie or cheese plate or one of the handful of hot dishes (like spaghetti with razor clams or octopus cooked in red wine), you can expect it to be generous and fresh. No corkage fee is charged for wines off the shelf, a rarity for a wine bar. Reservations are advised for Friday and Saturday night. It’s worth noting that bilingual owner Olivier has opened a second wine bistro, La Mise en Verre, at 17 rue Pastorelli. | Average main: €18 | 17 rue Gubernatis, New Town | 04–93–62–69–80 | www.la-part-des-anges-nice.fr | Closed Sun.
La Réserve de Nice.
$$$$ | FRENCH | Chef Sébastien Mahuet knows what it takes to earn restaurant acclaim, and his originality and detail are reflected in his creations, like millefeuille of foie gras caramelized with maple syrup; fig marmalade flavored with port wine, cranberry, and redcurrant jelly; and the cod fillet cooked in frothy butter, shallots, and Coco beans stewed with bacon in a fine truffle bouillon. Price—it’s easy to run up a bill of more than €180 per couple with drinks—and quality may not always meet halfway, but the panoramic views, especially upstairs, from this Art Deco building jutting over the sea cannot be faulted; also here is one of the city’s most stylish bars. | Average main: €44 | 60 bd. Frank Pilatte, Mont Boron | 04–97–08–29–98 | www.lareservedenice.com | Closed most of Nov. No dinner Sun. Oct.–Apr.
Le Bistrot d’Antoine.
$$ | BISTRO | You won’t find any “concept” cooking here, just pure French bistro fare at its finest—beef salad with anchovy dressing, butter risotto with truffles, sliced leg of lamb, and traditional pork casserole. Leave room for the day’s dessert, such as the wonderfully warm peach-and-frangipane tart. The prices here are as appealing as the menu. If you can’t score a reservation, try one of chef Antoine Crespo’s other eateries: the Comptoir du Marché (at 8 rue du Marché) has affordable market-fresh cuisine, and the Bar des Oiseaux (at 5 rue Saint-Vincent) is a charming pasta place with a €20 set menu. | Average main: €19 | 27 rue de la Préfecture, Vieux Nice | 04–93–85–29–57 | Closed Sun. and Mon., 3 wks in Aug., 10 days at Christmas, and at Easter | Reservations essential.
Le Bistrot Gourmand.
$$$$ | BISTRO | Chef David Vaqué received the Maître Cuisinier title in 2013 for his preservation of French cuisine at Le Bistrot Gourmand, a local favorite since it opened in 2011. The setting is convenient—just steps away from the Hotel Beau Rivage and with an outdoor terrace—but the focus in on the food and the wine. Menu options include black risotto, panfried European lobster and Iberian chorizo, and a cappuccino of peppers and ginger, plus a soufflé that may actually leave you à bout de souffle (“breathless”). The sommelier amazingly seems to know your order before you do; a bottle will set you back around €55. Don’t expect a warm and cheery interior; while the service is friendly enough, the stark white setting with a few dashes of color is meant to keep your eye on the plate. | Average main: €35 | 3 rue Desboutin, Vieux Nice | 04–92–14–55–55 | www.lebistrogourmand.fr | Closed Sun. and Wed.
Le Safari.
$$ | FRENCH | The Cours Saleya’s desirable terrace tables provide an excuse for many of the restaurants along this strip to get away with culinary murder, but that’s not the case at Le Safari, which pays more attention than most to ingredients and presentation (even if you shouldn’t expect miracles). Choose from traditional Niçois dishes—the fish soup served with croutons, spicy mayonnaise, and cheese is particularly good—and Italian-inspired fare such as creamy risotto. Inside the colorful dining room is where the locals eat, and some even claim the food is a notch better there. TIP Wherever you sit, it’s a good idea to reserve. | Average main: €24 | 1 cours Saleya, Old Town/Port | 04–93–80–18–44 | www.restaurantsafari.fr.
Lycée Hotellier Paul Augier.
$ | FRENCH | Popular with both locals and expats, the three restaurants at the Paul Augier Hospitality and Tourism School, attended by 1,200 pupils and apprentices, serve lunch weekdays. The food is prepared by aspiring young chefs. The most sophisticated of the three, the Baie des Anges gourmet restaurant, is on the fifth floor ($20 menu without drinks). | Average main: €15 | 163 bd. René Cassin | 04–93–72–77–77 | www.lycee-paul-augier.com | No credit cards | Closed weekends. No dinner.
Restaurant Jan.
$$$ | FRENCH | South African Jan Hendrik’s resume includes a stint as food contributor to the international ELLE magazine and two years as the head chef on a luxury yacht in Monaco before opening this exquisite restaurant in January 2014. Within months, reservations were required to ensure a taste of his menu, which includes veal cheeks, potato “dauphine,” potato purée, trumpet mushrooms, foie gras, and lavender mayonnaise. The bread, ice cream, and sorbet are all homemade, the eggs and milk are organic, and real butter, real cream and Maldon sea salt are all used behind the scenes. | Average main: €27 | 12 rue Lascaris, Port Nice | 04–97–19–32–23 | www.restaurantjan.com | Closed Sun. and Mon., and 2 wks in late Nov. No lunch Sat.–Thurs. | Reservations essential.
Sapore.
$$$ | ECLECTIC | Chef Anthony Riou has found a winning formula with his generous five-course tapas menu, which changes frequently to keep the locals coming back to this sleek red-and-gray-walled dining room with ancient wooden beams and an open kitchen. The key to his cooking is his use of simple, bold flavors, as in a thick crab velouté, goat cheese, and very thin bacon slices on toast, deboned duck confit on potato purée, and chocolate cake with mango. Choose from Spanish and French wines to complete this Spanish-accented experience, which attracts a young and fashionable French crowd. | Average main: €32 | 19 rue Bonaparte, Pl. du Pin, Old Town/Port | 04–92–04–22–09 | www.restaurant-sapore.com | Closed Sun. and Mon.
Fodor’s Choice | Séjour Café.
$$$ | FRENCH | Abandon any idea of showing up here in the hope of getting one of the 28 seats. Owners Renaud and Marilène Geille, who used to run Les Viviers back in the day, pack this popular eatery by offering an exceptional surroundings, fabulous food, and flawless service. The fish dishes are supreme, lightly accentuated by seasonal vegetables, and the magret carnard seems reinvented. The desserts may not seem particularly adventurous, but the delicate combination of salty and sweet will knock your socks off (if you’re wearing any). Next door is sister restaurant Le Petit Café, equally as atmospheric and delicious. | Average main: €25 | 11 rue Grimaldi, New Town | 04–93–27–37–84 | www.lesejourcafe.fr | Closed Sun. and Mon.
Where to Stay
Hotel Felix Beach.
$ | HOTEL | This practical hotel sits a block from the beach on popular Rue Masséna—and, if you choose one of the four rooms that feature a tiny balcony, you’ll have a ringside seat over the pedestrian thoroughfare. All accommodations have been completely redecorated, but although neat and bright, they are compact in size and perhaps not as clean as you are used to. Breakfast is extra (€7), but you can walk out the door and find plenty of alternatives. Pros: prime location makes perfect touring sense; owners are so nice that you feel right at home. Cons: rooms can be noisy, especially those facing the street; there’s no elevator and rooms are on upper floors. | Rooms from: €98 | 41 rue Masséna, Place Masséna | 04–93–88–67–73 | 14 rooms | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | Hôtel Negresco.
$$$$ | HOTEL | This white-stucco slice of old-fashioned Riviera extravagance accommodates well-heeled guests in elegant, uniquely decorated (and sometimes quirky) rooms replete with swagged drapes and fine antiques (plus a few unfortunate “with it” touches like those plastic-glitter bathtubs)—everyone should experience one night here. Built by Henri Negresco and opened in 1912, the landmark still epitomizes La Belle Époque, thanks to its marble columns, gilded ceilings, and qualité du Louvre collection of old-master art. Its awe-inspiring glass ceiling has even been listed as a historic monument; the hotel, however, has been reinventing itself following a massive multimillion euro renovation and in 2015, a third of the rooms were refreshed. The entrance hall (and the welcome) has lost its stuffiness in favor of a lighter design. Superchef Jean-Denis Rieubland, moreover, has added some modern touches to the menu at Le Chantecler (see Where to Eat). La Rotonde—complete with a carousel of painted wooden horses and a Folies Bérgère chandelier—is an over-the-top setting for lunch and dinner. For a touch of the Old Riviera, repair to the vintage walnut-and-velour bar (the best on the coast) for the cocktail of the month. Pros: like staying in a museum; attention and service from the moment you arrive; best bar on the Riviera plus a Champagne bar June–September. Cons: mediocre buffet breakfast is expensive (€30); if you’re not a fan of felines, you won’t appreciate the owner’s cat wandering about. | Rooms from: €330 | 37 promenade des Anglais, Promenade Nice | 04–93–16–64–00 | www.hotel-negresco-nice.com | 96 rooms, 21 suites | No meals.
Hôtel Suisse.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Charging modest prices for a spectacular view from the top end of the seafront, where the promenade winds around to the port, the acclaimed Hôtel Suisse far outclasses most other hotels in this price range, although be prepared for a small reception area and a très petit elevator. You’ll want to pay extra for a balcony with a sea view (and ask for a top floor), and it will be oh-so-worth-it for the sight of the turquoise water glittering below. Redecorated by architect J.P. Nuel, the rooms provide all the modern comforts with pleasing cream-and-brown or cream-and-burgundy color schemes, and the lobby/breakfast room has also had been given a hip new look. Pros: balconies with breathtaking sea views; clean, modern rooms; accessible prices in low season. Cons: tiny elevator; pricey breakfast (€18) when you can walk to Cours Saleya. | Rooms from: €250 | 15 quai Raubà Capéù, Old Town/Port | 04–92–17–39–00 | www.hotel-nice-suisse.com | 37 rooms, 1 suite | No meals.
La Fontaine.
$$ | HOTEL | Fifty meters from the waterfront and the Negresco, this immaculate, modern hotel on a bustling shopping street offers a friendly welcome from its house-proud owners—for a great price. Rooms are small, clean, and comfortable, with freshly tiled bathrooms. Guests will find a coffee corner in the room, with a kettle and mug, and there’s even a pretty little courtyard where breakfast is served. Nearby is Le Sporting Plage, one of the city’s best private beaches. Pros: helpful staff; leafy courtyard; antiallergy flooring and pillows. Cons: rooms overlooking the street can be noisy; €12 breakfast expensive (lots of cafés around). | Rooms from: €135 | 49 rue de France, New Town | 04–93–88–30–38 | www.hotel-fontaine.com | Closed 2 wks in Dec. and Jan. | 29 rooms | No meals.
La Perouse.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Just past the Vieille Ville, at the foot of the town’s château and next to Hôtel Suisse, this secret treasure cuts into the cliff (an elevator takes you up to reception), and the best rooms—including Raoul Dufy’s favorite—not only have views of the azure sea, they also look down into an intimate garden dotted with lemon trees. All rooms underwent some serious renovations in 2013 and have a breezy, inviting style that makes you think twice about leaving them for a drink at the new patio bar or a dip in the cliff-side pool. An excellent on-site restaurant serves meals year round in a candlelit garden. Pros: discreet elegance steps from the Old Town and the Promenade; very good service, including chocolates on pillows. Cons: some windows face a stone wall; not good for those with mobility issues; forego breakfast (€24) and head to the Old Town. | Rooms from: €345 | 11 quai Rauba Capeu, Le Château | 04–93–62–34–63 | www.hotel-la-perouse.com | 56 rooms | No meals.
Nice Garden Hotel.
$ | HOTEL | It’s hard to believe that this little gem of a hotel, with its own courtyard garden, is smack in the middle of Nice, next to the pedestrian shopping streets and a five-minute walk from the Old Town. Rooms, with original ceiling moldings and chandeliers, are done up in romantic style and all of them look onto the garden scented with Mediterranean flowers and citrus fruits. This is a find, and owner Marion Hoffman goes of her way to turn your vacation into a lasting memory. Pros: breakfast (€9 extra) with homemade jam in the garden; extremely helpful owner; check-in 2–9 pm. Cons: parking is down the street at public garage. | Rooms from: €100 | 11 rue du Congrès, New Town | 04–93–87–35–62 | www.nicegardenhotel.com | 9 rooms | No meals.
Solara.
$ | HOTEL | One block from the beach and two from Place Masséna, this tiny budget hotel perches on the fourth and fifth floors, high above the main shopping street. The very helpful owner, Mr. Thierry, has brightened up the smallish rooms and provides service worthy of an upscale establishment. The fifth-floor rooms have terraces, which are worth the €25 premium; some of them look onto the lively pedestrian street below. Don’t be put off by the unsavory-seeming ground-floor entrance and apparently rickety elevator, which is common in French buildings. Pros: fabulous location, near the beach; top-floor terraces overlooking pedestrian street; soundproof windows. Cons: rooms on the smallish size, but worth it for the rates. | Rooms from: €85 | 7 rue de France, New Town | 04–93–88–09–96 | www.hotelsolara.com | 14 rooms | No meals.
Villa Rivoli.
$$ | HOTEL | You’ll find this Belle Époque hotel, built in 1890, in the chic Quartier des Musiciens, excellently located a couple of blocks up from the beach but with very affordable rates. Most rooms are on the smallish side but all have been renovated and free coffee and tea facilities are provided. Some “Tradition” and “Superior” category rooms include a small balcony. Forego the €12 breakfast for the bakery at the corner of Rue de France. Pros: friendly and helpful service; authentic-period French feel. Cons: hotel parking €18 per day, but neighborhood parking is difficult; “Lower Ground Floor” category rooms can be musty; no elevator. | Rooms from: €110 | 10 rue de Rivoli, New Town | 04–93–88–80–25 | www.villa-rivoli.com | 26 rooms | No meals.
Windsor.
$$ | HOTEL | This is a memorably eccentric hotel—most of its white-on-white rooms either have frescoes of mythological themes or are works of artists’ whimsy—but the real draw at this otherworldly place is its astonishing city-center garden, a tropical oasis of lemon, magnolia, and palm trees, only outdone by the excellent service—and you’re still only three blocks from the beach. You can breakfast or dine here by candlelight (the breakfast-and-dinner option costs €36 per person, breakfast alone is €14), yet with so many eateries close by, you may not want to tie yourself in. Pros: private pool and garden in heart of city; a good base to visit city; you can print your boarding pass for free in the lobby. Cons: artist-inspired interior design isn’t for everyone (look online before booking!); street rooms can be noisy; ultraviolet elevator is cool the first time but annoying by the end of the week. | Rooms from: €145 | 11 rue Dalpozzo, New Town | 04–93–88–59–35 | www.hotelwindsornice.com | Restaurant closed Sun. | 57 rooms | Some meals.
Nightlife and Performing Arts
Nightlife
Nightlife in Nice for most part ends after a late dinner. There is a smattering of clubs in the Old Nice–Port district and the pietonne has developed a lively reputation, with bars around Rue de France and Rue Halèvy, including Rue Commandant Rafalli, which now houses less-blatantly touristy bistros.
Bars
Bar Le Relais.
If you’re all dressed up and have just won big, invest in a drink in the intimate walnut-and-velour Bar Le Relais in the iconic Hôtel Negresco. It’s worth the price (€15 for a glass of red wine, or an Evian for €6) just to get a peek at the washrooms (just don’t trip over the owner’s lounging cat, Carmen). | 37 promenade des Anglais, Promenade Nice | 04–93–16–64–00 | www.hotel-negresco-nice.com.
Seven Blue Bar.
Don’t forget your camera when heading up to this panoramic bar on the seventh floor of the Clarion Grand Aston Hotel. The views of old Nice and the new Promenade du Paillon across to the airport are spectacular, and drink prices are more than reasonable. In summer the bar moves to the rooftop, where there’s a pool (for guests) and a 360-degree view. Note that there are 23 steps from the hotel lobby to the bar’s elevator. | 12 av. Felix Faure, Centre Ville | 04–93–17–53–00 | www.hotel-aston.com.
Casinos
Casino du Palais de la Méditerranée.
In the 1920s, the swanky Palais de la Méditerranée drew performers like Charlie Chaplin and Edith Piaf; however, the establishment lost its glory and was demolished in 1990, save for the facade you see today. Reopened with hotel service in 2004, the contemporary version has 200 slot machines, plus electric roulette, blackjack, and Texas Hold ‘Em Poker tables. It’s open weekdays 10 am–3 am, until 4 am on weekends; table play starts at 8 pm. | 15 promenade des Anglais, Promenade Nice | 04–92–14–68–00 for show reservations | www.casinomediterranee.com.
Dance Clubs
Glam.
The city’s most colorful gay club has DJs who compel you to dance to the best mixes around. It’s open to all clubbers in the know, with only one criterion: be cool. | 6 rue Eugène Emmanuel, Centre Ville | 06–60–55–26–61 | www.leglam.org.
High Club.
Nice was a sleepy city until High came along (just ask the neighbors). Right across from the sea, its three designated floors have something for everyone: a massive dance floor with legendary DJs; Studio 47, a tribute to the 1980s and for those on the other side of 25; and the LGBT SkyHigh. Expect to pay a €20 cover and another €120 for a table (four people/one bottle); a VIP magnum will set you back €400. Don’t show up unless you’re here to be seen. Doors open at 11:45 pm, and it’s hopping until 6 am. | 45 promenade des Angais, New Town | 07–81–88–42–04 | www.highclub.fr | Closed Mon.–Thurs.
Performing Arts
Concerts
Acropolis.
Classical music, ballet performances, and traditional French pop concerts take place at Nice’s convention center, the Acropolis. | Palais des Congrès, Esplanade John F. Kennedy | 04–93–92–83–00 | www.nice-acropolis.com.
Conservatoire National.
The regional conservatory in Cimiez has a mixed calendar of events, from classical concerts to dance. | 127 av. de Brancolar, Cimiez | Take Bus No. 15 to the Cdt. Gérôme stop | 04–97–13–50– 00 | www.cnr-nice.org.
Nice Jazz Festival.
For six days in July, the Nice Jazz Festival and Jazz Off draw performers from around the world to Place Masséna and Théâtre de Verdure. Tickets cost €35 per show and can be purchased online or at Place Masséna. | Pl. Masséna and Théâtre de Verdure | 08–92–68–36–22 | www.nicejazzfestival.fr.
Opéra de Nice.
A half block west of Cours Saleya stands a flamboyant Italian-style theater designed by Charles Garnier, architect of the Paris Opéra. It’s home today to the Opéra de Nice, with a permanent chorus, orchestra, and ballet corps. The season runs mid-November–June, and tickets cost €8–€85. | 4 rue St-François-de-Paule, Vieux Nice | 04–92–17–40–40 | www.opera-nice.org.
Théâtre de Verdure.
Built in 1945, the Théâtre de Verdure can seat 1,850 people or provide standing room for 3,200. It’s a great spot for concerts and theater. Keep an eye on the summer calendar for the Ciné Prom, when you can watch big-screen movies (€2) here. | Jardin Albert Ier, Espace Jacques Cotta | www.tdv-nice.org.
Film and Theater
Cinéma Rialto.
Don’t expect to find popcorn and concession stands here, but the Rialto has the city’s only selection of foreign- and English-language films, with some Cannes Film Festival screenings also. | 4 rue de Rivoli, Cimiez | lerialto.cine.allocine.fr.
Théâtre National de Nice.
Headed by Irina Brook, the Théâtre National de Nice plays host to 40 productions from all over Europe as part of a new initiative to become a center for innovative European theater. Tickets range from €7 (last-minute) to €40. | Promenade des Arts, Centre Ville | 04–93–13–90–90 | www.tnn.fr.
Sports and the Outdoors
Nice is one giant outdoor arena, and the Promenade is the racetrack. From the Ironman Nice triathlon to the Rock n Roll Carnival 25-km (15½-mile) run to the new 140-km (87-mile) Ultra run (not to mention the cycling, kayaking and sailing … and skiing), there are plenty of options to work off that breakfast croissant while taking in some spectacular scenery. The tourist-office website has an extensive listing of sports and activities.
Glisse Evasion.
If the idea of parasailing seems a bit terrifying, note that these guys get nothing but smiles from satisfied customers. Parasailing is €60 for two or €60 for “Slydsit” (sitting in a group in an inflatable dinghy). You’ll find them nearly across from the Negresco Hotel. | 29 promenade des Anglais, Promenade Nice | 06–10–27–03–91 | www.glisse-evasion.com.
Shopping
Nice’s main shopping street, Avenue Jean-Médecin, runs inland from Place Masséna; all needs and most tastes are catered to in its big department stores (Galeries Lafayette, Monoprix, and the split-level Étoile mall). The tramway, launched in late 2007, has made this mini Champs-Elysées all the more accessible, so expect crowds on Saturday (the majority of shops are still closed on Sunday). Luxury boutiques, such as Emporio Armani, Kenzo, Chanel, and Sonia Rykiel, line Rue du Paradis, while Rue de France and the Old Town have more affordable offerings from independent shops.
Alziari.
Tiny Alziari sells olive oil by the gallon in the famous blue and yellow cans with old-fashioned labels. | 14 rue St-François-de-Paule, Vieux Nice | www.alziari.com.fr.
Confiserie Florian du Vieux Nice.
Open every day except Christmas, this spot is a good source for crystallized fruit (a Nice specialty). It’s located on the west side of the port. | 14 quai Papacino, Vieux Nice | www.confiserieflorian.com.
Fish market.
Seafood of all kinds is sold at the fish market every day (except Monday) 6 am–1 pm. | Pl. St-François, Vieux Nice | Closed Mon.
La Promenade des 100 Antiquaires.
France’s third largest regroupment of antiques collectors forms a triangle from Place Garibaldi to the port (Quai Papacino) and along Rue Catherine Ségruane at the bottom of the châateau. There’s a helpful map on the website, which includes side streets like Rue Antoine Gautier and Rue Emmanuel Philibert. Les Puces de Nice has 30 stalls under one roof in Quai Lunel, and Place Garibaldi hosts a morning antiques market on the third Saturday of the month. | Vieux Nice | www.nice-antic.com | Closed Sun.
Mademoiselle.
You have to hand it to the French: they even do secondhand fashion right. Steps away from the Hôtel Negresco, Mademoiselle has quickly become a must-stop shop in Nice. Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Hermès—you name it, the gang’s all here, at least in vintage terms. You’ll find lots of luxury brand clothes, shoes, bags, and belts to rummage through—all of it excellently priced and gorgeously displayed by owner Sephora Louis, who just opened a second shop in Old Nice. | 41 rue de France, New Town.
Maison Auer.
Open Tuesday–Saturday, the venerable Henri Auer has been selling crystallized fruit since 1820. | 7 rue St-François de Paule, Vieux Nice | www.maison-auer.com.
Oliviera.
Come here for the best selection of Provençal olive oils in town. Oliviera is run by the passionate Nadim Beyrouti in the Old Town, who also serves Mediterranean dishes made with the finest local ingredients. | 8 bis rue du Collet, Vieux Nice | 04–93–13–06–45 | www.oliviera.com | Closed Sun. and Mon.
Star Dog Boutique.
For the jet-set pet, Star Dog Boutique has iPawds (a plush toy with FaceBark, DogTube, and Bark Street Journal apps), Doggle sunglasses, and Oh My Dog! cologne to get Fido’s tail wagging. | 40 rue de France, New Town | 04–97–03–27–40 | www.jophicotedazur.com.