Thank You for Smoking

CHAPTER NINE

BEEF & LAMB

For carnivores, few aromas are more seductive than the mingling of a charcoal fire and the dripping, sizzling fat of well-marbled steak. Growing up in the Midwest, any celebratory occasion (like a Saturday evening in late June, for instance) meant a grilled steak, usually served with a side of “Homer” potatoes (thinly sliced potatoes and onions fried in butter that my grandfather used to prepare). To this day, the smell of red meat on the grill conjures up happy memories of clanging horseshoes, fireflies, rhubarb pie, and those meals.

A meal made with grilled beef or lamb still feels like a special occasion (partly because I don’t eat it as often as I used to). In that spirit, the recipes in this chapter range from casual dinners like burgers or tacos that make the most of inexpensive cuts, to splurges like a porterhouse steak or prime rib worthy of a celebration.

I admit that I’m a bit cavalier when it comes to gauging the doneness for, say, a strip steak. But cooking prime cuts is an investment, so pay close attention to the temperature of the grill (adjusting the air vents as necessary to maintain a steady temperature) and use a thermometer to check the internal temperature of the meat to ensure it’s done to your liking. To account for carryover cooking, or the residual heat that continues to cook the meat once you remove it from the heat, pull the meat off the grill when the temperature reads about 5 degrees lower than your target doneness.

Some of the cuts in this chapter, like short ribs and chuck roast, are associated with long braises and other forms of indoor cooking. You’ll be surprised at how easy it is to transfer the process outdoors and delighted at how a wood-infused fire elevates a dish.

When you have time to make the meal an event, try one of the longer smokes (identified by ) that require a bit more planning and cooking time. The end result is an incredible meal and memories for everyone at the table.

Doneness Temperature Guidelines

Rare: 125°F (52°C)

Medium-rare: 130°F (55°C)

Medium: 135°F (57°C)

Medium-well: 145°F (63°C)

Well done: 155°F (68°C)

Place the steak on a baking sheet and use a paring knife to make several ½-inch (1.3 cm) incisions on both sides of the meat; drizzle it with enough oil to lightly coat, and generously season with salt and pepper. Combine the garlic, ginger, and Spicy Curry Salt in a small bowl and then rub the mixture over the entire surface of the meat. Let the meat marinate at room temperature for 1 hour.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the steak over direct heat and grill for 5 to 6 minutes, then flip the meat and cook it for an additional 15 to 17 minutes (flipping every 4 to 5 minutes), until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat reads 125°F (52°C); carryover heat will take it to 130°F (55°C) for medium-rare as it rests.

Transfer the steak to a cutting board to rest for 5 minutes. Thinly slice the meat against the grain and arrange the slices on a serving platter with the lettuce, herbs, pickled vegetables, and hot sauce.

Place the tenderloin in a large baking dish, drizzle it with enough oil to lightly coat, and generously season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the herbes de Provence over the meat, and then use your hands to rub the seasonings over the entire cut.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the beef over direct heat and grill for 5 to 7 minutes, using tongs to roll the tenderloin every couple of minutes, until it’s nicely charred on all sides. Move the meat to indirect heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 15 to 20 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the tenderloin reads 125°F (52°C); carryover heat will take it to 130°F (55°C) for medium-rare as it rests. Check on the meat every 5 minutes or so and flip it for even browning.

Transfer the meat to a cutting board to rest for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, arrange the watercress on a platter. Thinly slice the beef against the grain and arrange the slices over the greens. Serve with the aioli on the side.

Throughout Texas, the best beef tacos are typically made with skirt or flank steak—tougher “flat” cuts that are best enjoyed lightly grilled and sliced across the grain. Flank steak is slightly leaner than skirt (you can use either one in this recipe), but it has a rich, satisfying flavor. In my mind, the best way to prepare flank steak is to marinate it with a spicy rub (piercing the meat with a paring knife helps the flavors permeate the entire cut) and cook it to medium-rare. After slicing, pile the steak onto warm corn tortillas with fresh cilantro, sliced avocado, lime wedges, and Green Chile Salsa.

Place the flank steak in a shallow dish and use a paring knife to make several ½-inch (1.3 cm) incisions on both sides; drizzle it with enough oil to lightly coat.

To make the rub, in a small dry skillet over medium heat, toast the chiles, peppercorns, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, and cumin seeds until fragrant and slightly darkened, 2 to 3 minutes. Allow the spices to cool, then add them to the bowl of a food processor with the garlic and salt. Pulse the mixture into a coarse paste, then add the brown sugar and vinegar and pulse again until evenly combined.

Use a rubber spatula to spread the chile rub over the meat, and then use your hands to evenly coat the seasonings over the entire cut, pressing the rub into the holes you created with the knife. Cover the meat with plastic wrap and set aside to marinate for 1 hour at room temperature.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the steak over direct heat and grill for about 4 minutes, then flip the meat and cook it for 3 to 4 minutes more, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the steak reads 125°F (52°C); carryover heat will take it to 130°F (55°C) for medium-rare as it rests.

Transfer the steak to a cutting board to rest for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, warm the corn tortillas on the grill. Thinly slice the meat against the grain and arrange the slices on a platter. Serve with the warm corn tortillas, cilantro, sliced avocados, lime wedges, and salsa.