Thank You for Smoking

CHAPTER ONE

THE SMOKED LARDER

Even though I’m a fan of firing up my grill any night of the week, it’s typically not realistic to tackle two cooking methods—say, smoking lentils and then simmering them for a salad—before a family-friendly dinner hour. That’s why I rely on a larder of smoked ingredients that inspire and expedite meals. The process of building that larder is actually quite time efficient: devote a couple of pleasant hours to smoking a variety of items (e.g., dried beans, grains, seeds, spices, and nuts) all at once, and then be armed with an enticing array of options to pull from all week or month long. The thick cast-aluminum body of my PK Grill holds heat extremely well, so one chimney of charcoal (and a few additional wood chunks to keep the smoke streaming) typically provides enough heat for two 30- to 40-minute “bulk” smoking sessions that produce a bounty of options for the recipes in this book or your own inspirations.

The ability to reach for fragrant condiments, like Smoked Arbol Honey (this page) or Smoked Garlic Aioli (this page), that instantly elevate a simple grilled chicken breast or lamb burger, makes menu planning more fun. The smoked components bring so much character that you don’t need much else to make the dish shine—one bite of smoked chickpeas dressed with nothing more than extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkling of salt, and you’ll know exactly what I mean.

This chapter is devoted to basics with a shelf life that complement everything from cocktails to dessert. I’ve given you recipes that rely on the smoked larder ingredients, but you’ll also have leftovers that can be incorporated into your go-to meals. You can crumble smoked rosemary in tomato sauce, or use smoked cumin and fennel seeds in beef or vegetarian chili. Flavor enhancers like smoked condiments, salsas, syrup, and dried fruits are great to have on hand for granola, baked goods, charcuterie platters, and more.

SMOKED SPICES, HERBS, SALTS, DRIED FRUIT & DRIED CHILES

Depending on their weight and density, most larder ingredients will smoke for 10 to 40 minutes over a drip pan of water that provides humidity to mitigate heat and help the smoky flavor “stick.” (Note: Smoking dried chiles is really a matter of toasting them over a wood-infused fire for as little as 5 minutes, because they will darken very quickly.) Once your grill or smoker is at temperature, the process is mostly unattended, although you’ll want to stir and/or rotate the ingredients after 5 to 15 minutes to ensure all items (every dried bean, for instance) receive a uniform level of smoke.

Note that foods with a higher fat content will react to heat more quickly, so keep a close eye on them toward the end of the process and continue to stir as necessary (items around the perimeter of the pan will darken first) to prevent them from becoming too dark and tasting acrid. Fresh herbs like rosemary, with its essential oils and sticky, finger-coating resin, can do the same, so you may need to pull them off the heat sooner than dried spices like fennel seeds or peppercorns. In other words, for the best results, pay attention—to the temperature and the way the process is playing out (see the before-and-after photo on this page).

USE THIS METHOD TO SMOKE:

Dried chiles: ancho, arbol, guajillo, pasilla

Dried fruit: cherries, coconut, cranberries, dates, figs, nectarines, peaches, pears, prunes, raisins

Herbs (hearty sprigs or branches): bay leaves, marjoram, oregano, rosemary, thyme

Salts

Spices

Vanilla beans

To smoke spices, herbs, salts, or dried fruit, prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, use tongs to remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of warm water on the side with no coals, and add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Return the cooking grate to its position, allow it to preheat, and then carefully wipe the preheated grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

Place the ingredients in a disposable aluminum pan or atop two sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil (crimp the edges of the foil upward to create a rim to prevent the ingredients from sliding off).

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the ingredients over indirect heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 10 to 30 minutes for spices, herbs, and salt and 30 to 40 minutes for dried fruits. To smoke dried chiles, preheat a grill basket or heavy cast-iron skillet over direct heat for 5 minutes. Place the chiles in the skillet and smoke until they are puffed and slightly darkened, about 1 to 2 minutes per side.

Remove the ingredients from the grill and let them cool and dry completely. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for up to 3 months (dried fruits will last for 4 months).

SMOKED OLIVE OIL, MAPLE SYRUP & HONEY

I’m mostly a purist when it comes to olive oil (I prefer extra-virgin to the heavily scented varieties sold in oil boutiques). However, oil that’s cold smoked with natural elements (heat can degrade a cold-pressed oil) creates a fragrant finish for grilled bread, hummus, hard-cooked eggs, roasted vegetables, grilled fish, or soup. That’s why I rely on a smoking gun to flavor oil and other viscous syrups. I don’t use smoked oil for cooking; I prefer it as a garnish, so I can appreciate its distinct flavor in small amounts. You can also use smoked olive oil to marinate olives (with herbs, citrus zest, and chile flakes) or fresh cheeses. Smoked maple syrup and smoked honey are both delicious drizzles over aged cheeses, grilled sausages, bacon, or pizza. See also Smoked Arbol Honey (this page).

To smoke olive oil (use extra-virgin), maple syrup, or honey, pour the desired amount into a glass jar (it shouldn’t be more than half full to allow room for the smoke).

Add a pinch of wood chips to the burn chamber of a smoking gun, place the hose in the jar with the end above the liquid, and cover the jar with plastic wrap. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to ignite the wood chips and smoke for a few seconds, until the jar is filled with a dense smoke. Remove the hose and reseal the plastic wrap. Let the smoke infuse for 3 minutes, then remove the plastic wrap.

Taste, and if you want smokier results, repeat the process, stirring in between smoking to distribute the flavor. Cover the jar and store in a cool, dark place for up to 2 months.

SMOKED GARLIC

Whether the entire head is slow roasted in glowing embers or a few cloves are blistered in a basket, skillet, or mesh bag over moderate heat, smoked garlic is easy to prepare while you’re firing up something else on the grill. And its aroma and texture are luxuriously rich—something that’s great to have on hand to add a smoky sweetness to tomato sauce, emulsified salad dressings, or soups. See also Smoked Garlic Aioli (this page).

To smoke garlic, prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

Trim the tops from 3 heads garlic (just enough to reveal the cloves), place the heads cut side up in an aluminum foil packet, drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat, and toss to combine. Partially close each packet but do not seal.

When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the packet directly over the heat on the cooking grate, if using a gas grill. Otherwise, place the garlic packet on the periphery of the coals, or place it on the cooking grate if the heat feels particularly intense (you want the temperature moderate enough that the garlic softens and caramelizes before it gets overly black). Cook until the garlic is tender, 30 to 40 minutes.

Cool slightly, then transfer the garlic to a sealable glass jar. Add enough olive oil to cover the garlic halfway, then seal the jar and store it in the fridge for up to 1 month.

This pretty and aromatic blend (see the photo on this page) reminds me of the fragrance of the sunbaked Texas Hill Country. Use it to season steaks or pork tenderloins, or to sprinkle over fresh goat cheese (along with a drizzle of olive oil) or poached eggs. The colors—pink peppercorns and red chile—make it pretty enough to give as a gift when packaged in a small glass jar and tied with rustic twine and a sprig of fresh rosemary. My favorite chile is chile pequin, a bright red chile the size of a small jelly bean that has a fiery heat. Feel free to use an equal amount of any crushed or crumbled red chile.

Using a mortar and pestle, lightly crush the peppercorns, fennel seeds, and rosemary. Transfer the seasonings to a small mixing bowl, add the salt, orange peel, and red pepper flakes and stir to combine. Store in a sealed container in a cool, dark place for up to 2 months.

Rinse the mustard seeds in a fine-mesh sieve, pat dry with paper towels, and place in an 8-ounce (240 ml) glass jar or heatproof bowl. In a small heavy saucepan, combine the vinegar, sugar, chile, and salt. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Pour the hot liquid over the mustard seeds and let them soak at room temperature until softened, 3 to 4 hours. Store the pickled mustard seeds in a sealed jar in the refrigerator for up to 4 months.

The bright heat of arbol chiles infuse honey with a fiery kick and pretty red hue. Drizzle this kicky condiment over grilled chicken wings, fresh cheeses, pizza, and ribs. To achieve the right texture and consistency, use pasteurized honey (raw honey can crystallize when heated and is often not pourable at room temperature). After steeping, the chiles soften in the amber syrup, giving the condiment an appealing texture, so there’s no need to strain the mixture. Because dried chiles toast quickly and I want the garlic to cook gently, I don’t preheat the grill basket in this method.

2 teaspoons smoked oregano or marjoram (see this page), or fresh oregano or marjoram

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place chiles and garlic in a grill basket or cast-iron skillet over direct heat and cook, turning occasionally, until the chiles smell rich and toasty, 2 to 3 minutes total, and the garlic has blackened in spots and its interior has softened, 12 to 15 minutes. Watch them closely, as they can turn from toasted to black and acrid in seconds. Remove each chile and garlic clove from the heat as it finishes cooking and set aside to cool.

Stem and seed the chiles and peel the garlic. Crumble the chiles into pieces and place them in a food processor with the garlic, oregano, salt, and pepper and process into a coarse paste.

In a small saucepan, combine the honey and chile paste over medium-low heat until the mixture just barely comes to a simmer. Remove the pan from the heat, cool briefly, and use a rubber spatula to transfer the mixture into a clean quart jar (do not strain). Allow the honey to cool completely, then seal with the lid and steep at room temperature for at least 1 day before using. After steeping, store the honey in the refrigerator for up to 2 months.

Meet your new salt and pepper. Used as a base seasoning (for meats or vegetables headed toward the grill), this earthy blend adds depth and a subtle but alluring flavor in everything you make. I also love it as a finishing salt, tossed with smoked cashews and a bit of olive oil, or sprinkled over herb-roasted potatoes or soft scrambled eggs.

Place the curry powder, salt, Korean chile flakes, red pepper flakes, and marjoram in a bowl and stir to combine. Store in a sealed container in a cool, dark place for up to 2 months.

Combine the garlic, salt, and red pepper flakes in the bowl of a food processor and pulse into a coarse paste. Add the anchovies, capers, lemon zest and juice, oregano, and olives and process until smooth. With the machine running, gradually add the olive oil and process until the mixture is very smooth. Taste the puree and season with pepper as desired. Store in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.

Infusing a temperature-sensitive ingredient like butter with a smoky nuance requires a cold-smoking method, so I use my smoking gun. Here anchovies give the sweet, smoky butter a salty depth that’s delicious with grilled vegetables or fresh pasta, like Pappardelle with Smoked Anchovy Butter & Herbs (this page), or slathered on grilled bread or fish steaks like tuna or swordfish.

Place the butter, anchovies, lemon zest, parsley, fish sauce, salt, and pepper in the bowl of a food processor and process until combined.

Using a rubber spatula, transfer the butter to a mixing bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Add a pinch of wood chips to the burn chamber of a smoking gun, place the hose under the plastic wrap with the end sitting above the butter, and reseal the plastic wrap. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to ignite the wood chips and smoke for a few seconds, until the bowl is filled with a dense smoke. Remove the hose and reseal the plastic wrap. Let the butter infuse for 3 minutes. Taste, and if you want smokier results, repeat the process, stirring in between smoking to distribute the flavor.

Cut a piece of parchment paper into an 11-inch (28 cm) square. Remove the plastic wrap from the bowl and transfer the smoked butter to the center of the parchment square. Roll the butter into a log and twist or fold the ends to seal. Store the butter in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

To make other flavors of cold-smoked butter, use the smoking gun to infuse room-temperature unsalted butter as instructed previously, then stir in other aromatics (such as minced garlic or chopped fresh herbs) and slather it on corn on the cob, potatoes, haricots verts, or grilled oysters or fish, or toss it with fresh pasta.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, use tongs to remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of warm water on the side with no coals, and add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Return the cooking grate to its position, allow it to preheat, and then carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

Place the jalapeños in a mixing bowl, drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat, and toss to combine. When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the jalapeños over direct heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 4 to 5 minutes, until charred and blistered on all sides (flipping and rotating the jalapeños around the heat every couple minutes for even cooking). Remove the jalapeños from the heat and set aside to cool.

Combine the vinegar, garlic, bay leaves, salt, peppercorns, and coriander seeds in a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat on the stovetop. Lower the heat and simmer for about 4 minutes, stirring to infuse the brine with the aromatics, then remove from the heat. Place the grilled jalapeños and carrot slices in a clean quart jar and pour in enough hot brine to cover. Allow the mixture to cool completely and then refrigerate until cold and crisp; they will keep for up to 2 months.

This sweet and sticky condiment is delicious alongside grilled steaks or piled on sandwiches made with a crusty bread, like ciabatta.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

While the grill heats, place the onions, garlic, and herb sprigs in a bowl, drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat, toss to combine, and place in a disposable aluminum pan.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the pan over indirect heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 30 minutes, until the onions have softened and their color has deepened. Add additional hot coals or wood chunks as needed to maintain a steady temperature of 300°F (150°C). Remove the pan from the heat and set it aside to cool slightly.

On the stovetop, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large heavy nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the onion mixture, any liquid in the pan, a generous pinch of salt, and a few grindings of pepper and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are fragrant and sizzling, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the vinegar, honey, bay leaves, and pepper flakes and bring the mixture to a simmer, then turn the heat to medium-low. Cook, partially covered, for 15 to 25 minutes, stirring every now and then, until the juices thicken and the mixture is sweet and golden (if there is still liquid in the pan, simmer until most of it is gone). Discard the herb sprigs and use the marmalade immediately, or cool and store in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

My favorite way to use smoked garlic is to incorporate its heady, caramelized sweetness into this silky condiment. If time is of the essence, you can simply whisk minced smoked garlic into store-bought mayo for a speedy version of the spread. But you’ll get the deepest flavor and the most luxurious texture if you make your own.

Place the egg, yolk, and mustard in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until combined. With the machine on low speed, slowly pour in the oil until the mixture thickens. Add the smoked garlic and lemon juice and process until just combined. Season with salt and pepper. Store in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

To make cold-smoked aioli using a smoking gun, prepare the recipe using roasted garlic or grate 2 cloves fresh garlic on a Microplane. Place the garlic in the food processor and process with the egg, yolk, and mustard. Finish the aioli, as previous, transfer it to a bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. Add a pinch of hickory wood chips to the burn chamber of a smoking gun, place the hose under the plastic wrap with the end sitting above the aioli, and reseal the plastic wrap. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to ignite the wood chips and smoke for a few seconds, until the bowl is filled with a dense smoke. Remove the hose and reseal the plastic wrap. Let the aioli infuse for 3 minutes, then remove the plastic wrap. Taste, and if you want smokier results, repeat the process, stirring in between smoking to distribute the flavor. Use immediately, or store in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.