Thank You for Smoking

CHAPTER SEVEN

FISH & SEAFOOD

Despite the fact that I make smoked fish pilgrimages a priority wherever I travel (from seafood markets on the Gulf to Russ and Daughters in New York City and a smokehouse in Duluth, Minnesota), I never used to consider making it myself—until recently. Smoking fish at home might sound intimidating, but it’s no more complicated than firing up your grill. Once you add the aromatic wood to the fire, all you need to do is control the heat and let the smoke work its charm.

This chapter is devoted to preparing fresh catches in various ways, from grilling crabs and oysters on the half shell to devour immediately, to feasts to plan a party around, like an impressive side of smoked salmon (brunch, anyone?) or shellfish cooked paella-style with green rice. You’ll be amazed at how a few minutes under the hood of a smoky grill will influence even quick-cooking items like scallops and shrimp and lead to spectacular meals easy enough to cook at your next beach house rental.

Keep in mind that most of these dishes come together quickly, so you’ll be left with a good amount of fire and heat—a great opportunity to “cook ahead” by smoking dried ingredients (beans, seeds, nuts), grill-smoking tomatoes and chiles, or coal-roasting eggplant for a future meal.

WOOD-FIRED OYSTERS

with Ras el Hanout Butter

Oysters grilled in the half shell are such a treat that they warrant their own occasion, like a happy hour with one or two of your besties, as in, “Hey, swing by after work with beer and I’ll grill us some oysters.” But hot, buttery bivalves are also a great thing to prepare as a snack or appetizer before you tackle the main event—say, a crawfish boil or steaks on the grill. The process (which is expedited with an oyster knife) is a fun thing to gather around and easy enough to do while you’re chatting with guests and sipping an adult beverage. Even though the oysters cook quickly, I like to close the grill briefly during the process to make the most of the wafting, fragrant smoke. Grilled oysters are delicious with nothing more than a cube of cold butter (that melts while they sizzle) and a final squeeze of lemon and/or a splash of hot sauce, but this compound butter, infused with warm, transporting spices and my favorite smoky hot sauce, truly takes them to the next level.

Ras el hanout is basically the North African equivalent to India’s garam masala. In Arabic, the phrase ras el hanout roughly translates to a “top shelf” blend of spices that often includes cumin, coriander, ginger, allspice, chile pepper, and turmeric, among others. Serve these oysters hot, right off the grill, with a cold, crisp lager (or maybe a nip of single-barrel bourbon) and either grilled slices of bread rubbed with garlic and drizzled with olive oil, or a crackly baguette for sopping up the juices.

SERVES 4 TO 6

2 green onions, white and light green parts, minced

1 clove garlic, thinly sliced

1 serrano chile, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped

1 teaspoon ras el hanout

½ teaspoon kosher salt

Several dashes of hot sauce (preferably Cholula)

½ cup (110 g) butter, at room temperature

24 fresh oysters, in the shell

Place the green onions, garlic, serrano, ras el hanout, salt, and hot sauce in the bowl of a food processor and pulse into a paste. Use a rubber spatula to transfer the paste to a mixing bowl, add the butter, and mix until combined. Using your hands, shape the butter into a log about 1½ inches (4 cm) in diameter, wrap it in plastic wrap, and refrigerate until firm, at least 1 hour, or up to 2 days.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, use tongs to remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of warm water on the side with no coals, and add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Return the cooking grate to its position, allow it to preheat, and then carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

Using an oyster knife, shuck the oysters and discard the top shell. Disconnect the oyster from the bottom shell but keep the oyster in the shell. Top each oyster with a generous teaspoon of the butter. Place the oysters over direct heat (see the following sidebar) and grill until the buttery juices bubble and the edges of the oysters begin to curl, about 2 minutes. Using tongs, transfer the oysters to a platter and serve immediately.

Two Ways to Smoke Oysters

Because oysters cook quickly, I’ve always cooked them over the direct heat of a medium fire. My friend Jody prefers to cook them more slowly, over indirect heat, until they darken slightly (like any smoked ingredient) and the edges of the oyster begin to curl. I’ve tried it both ways, repeatedly, and each is exceedingly good. Cooking them hot and fast delivers irresistible results (and waiting for them to sizzle provides an aromatic entertainment). If you have the time and patience to grill-smoke them for a more pronounced smokiness and slightly firmer, drier texture, try the indirect heat method, venting the grill for smoking (you don’t need a drip pan for this quick process) and cooking them until the oysters are darkened, 6 to 8 minutes.

PEG LEG’S SMOKED TUNA DIP

Along the Gulf Coast of Alabama and Florida, smoked fish dip made with tuna or even mullet is a summer staple. In seafood shacks, salty oyster bars, and restaurants, the dip is usually served with saltines or tortilla chips and toppings like chopped onions, tomatoes, and slices of pickled jalapeños, and a bottle of hot sauce. Every spring, when my family vacations in Pensacola, Florida, we buy tuna dip at Joe Patti’s, a massive, convivial seafood market on the water (and maybe my favorite place to shop ever?), and slather it on sturdy crackers like Triscuits. (It’s also indulgently delicious on Zapp’s potato chips.) When I can’t be at the beach, the smoky flavor of this rich, luscious spread takes me there.

SERVES 6 TO 8

Two 5-ounce (140 g) tuna steaks (about 2 inches/5 cm thick)

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

¼ cup (40 g) finely chopped yellow onion

4 green onions, white and light green parts, thinly sliced

1 small jalapeño or serrano chile, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped

⅔ cup (70 g) mayonnaise (preferably Duke’s)

⅓ cup (35 g) sour cream

2 tablespoons Creole mustard or other spicy whole-grain mustard

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon, plus more as desired

1 teaspoon hot sauce (such as Cholula or Crystal), plus more as desired

½ teaspoon hot paprika or your favorite Cajun spice blend

Potato chips or crackers, for serving

Fresh crudités, such as carrot, cucumber, or celery sticks, and wedges of chilled radish, for serving

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

While the grill heats, place the tuna on a plate, drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat, and season both sides generously with salt, pepper, and thyme. Use your hands to rub the seasonings evenly over the fish and set it aside.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the tuna over indirect heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 25 minutes, until firm and slightly darkened. Set aside to cool for 10 minutes.

Slice the tuna into ½-inch (1.3 cm) cubes and place them in a mixing bowl along with the onion, green onions, jalapeño, mayonnaise, sour cream, mustard, Worcestershire, lemon zest and juice, hot sauce, and paprika. Use two forks to shred the mixture into a coarse puree (or for a smoother texture, gently pulse the ingredients in a food processer).

Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding more lemon juice, hot sauce, salt, and pepper as desired. Transfer the dip to a serving bowl and, for the best results, cover and refrigerate for a few hours to allow the flavors to develop. Serve with crackers and crudités.

SMOKY LOBSTER TAILS

with Bay Leaves

Lobster tails offer the rich, tender meat you love, but they’re much easier to prepare than a whole lobster. There are different ways to prep a lobster tail for the grill. The soft tissue underneath the tail shell can be removed (poultry shears work well for this task), or the entire tail can be split in half lengthwise. My favorite approach is a hybrid of the two: using shears to cut the shell up to the tail, then using a knife to split the meat along the same line. Spread open the lobster to expose more of its luxurious meat to aromatics and smoke. The results need nothing more than a drizzle of olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. My favorite flavor with lobster is also the easiest to prepare: I insert fresh fragrant bay leaves into the flesh. Round out the meal with a cold, crisp Belgian-style ale and garlicky roast potatoes (or buttery boiled new potatoes) served on a bed of arugula.

SERVES 2 TO 4

4 uncooked lobster tails

Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 to 8 fresh bay leaves

Lemon wedges, for serving

Grilled bread, for serving

To prepare the lobster tails, use poultry shears to cut the shell up to the tail, then use a knife to split the meat along the same line as the shell cut, being careful not to slice all the way through the lobster.

Use the knife to gently spread open the lobster, exposing more of its meat (the remaining soft membrane will hold the sections intact). Brush the meat with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Insert a bay leaf or two in the slit of the meat. Set the tails aside to marinate at room temperature while you heat the grill.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the tails shell side down directly on the grates over direct heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 5 minutes. Use tongs to flip the tails and cook for 3 to 4 minutes more, until the meat is cooked through and the internal temperature reads 135°F (60°C) on an instant-read thermometer.

Remove the lobster from the grill, cool for 5 minutes, and then serve in large, shallow bowls with plenty of napkins, lemon wedges, and grilled bread, if desired.

PAPPARDELLE

with Smoked Anchovy Butter & Herbs

The salty simplicity and burst of fresh herbs in this recipe is wonderful with fresh pasta (but you can also use dried noodles like linguine or bucatini). Twirled around a fork and generously seasoned with salt and pepper, the buttery noodles are delicious on their own, but for added crunch, top them off with rustic (not finely ground) bread crumbs toasted in olive oil.

SERVES 4 TO 6

1 pound (450 g) fresh pappardelle or your favorite dried pasta

6 tablespoons (85 g) Smoked Anchovy Butter (this page), cut into cubes, at room temperature

¾ cup (175 ml) warm Smoked Chicken Stock (this page) or regular chicken stock

½ cup (50 g) freshly grated Parmesan, plus more for serving

Handful of lightly chopped fresh herbs (any combination of basil, chives, chervil, tarragon, and dill)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pinch of red pepper flakes or crumbled chile pequin

Flaky salt, for garnish

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until al dente (tender but still firm), about 3 minutes for fresh pasta or according to the package instructions for dried pasta. Drain the pasta in a colander (do not rinse) and return it to the pot off the heat.

Add the anchovy butter and toss well. Add the warm stock and Parmesan and toss to coat; allow the noodles to rest for a minute and toss again. Add the fresh herbs, season with salt and pepper to taste, add the red pepper flakes, and toss again.

Divide the pappardelle among bowls and top each with a sprinkling of flaky salt. Serve warm, with Parmesan on the side.

SMOKED SALMON

with Wild Pepper

Smoking a side of salmon leads to countless great meals. It’s delicious on its own (eaten with your fingers and a squeeze of lemon), served in a salmon salad, or with deviled eggs, pasta, and more. You can season this salmon with any type of peppercorn, but the fragrance of an exotic variety like Akesson’s Voatsiperifery “Wild” Pepper (available at Akessons-organic.com) infuses the fish with an enticing woodsy flavor as well as bright citrus and floral aromas. This salmon is a natural star on a brunch menu—served with a peppery salad of watercress and Pickled Mustard Seeds.

SERVES 6 TO 8

One 4-pound (1.8 kg) skin-on side of salmon, pinbones removed

Extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

1 tablespoon Voatsiperifery peppercorns or other peppercorns, coarsely ground

5 or 6 sprigs rosemary, thyme, or dill, as desired for fragrance

3 handfuls watercress, cleaned and trimmed

1 handful sunflower sprouts

3 tablespoons Pickled Mustard Seeds (this page)

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

Flaky salt, for garnish

Lemon wedges, for serving

Measure out two sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil that are 12 inches (30 cm) longer than the salmon and place them on a rimless baking sheet. Place the salmon skin-side down on the foil, drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat, and generously season with salt, pepper, and herbs (use your fingers to spread the seasonings and oil evenly over the flesh). Set the salmon aside to marinate at room temperature while you prepare the grill.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, carefully slide the foil and fish off of the baking sheet and onto the grill over indirect heat. Close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 25 to 30 minutes; be sure to rotate the fish as needed to ensure even cooking. When the salmon is cooked (it will feel just firm and flake easily with a fork), carefully slide the foil and salmon back onto the baking sheet and let it rest for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the watercress and sunflower sprouts in a mixing bowl, add the Pickled Mustard Seeds, vinegar, and 3 tablespoons olive oil, and toss to combine. Taste and season with more salt and pepper as desired.

Garnish the salmon with a light sprinkling of flaky salt and serve with the watercress salad and lemon wedges. Refrigerate the leftover salmon in a sealed container for up to 4 days.

GRILL-SMOKED DUNGENESS CRAB

With its sweet, tender meat and often limited availability, eating fresh crab is a luxury. The West Coast has bragging rights to fresh Dungeness crab, while Maine peekytoe, Jonah, and blue crab are East Coast delicacies. Luckily, whole crab (or sections) that’s steamed and frozen in its shell is widely available. Thaw frozen pre-steamed crab overnight in the refrigerator, or submerge them in a large container of cool water for a couple of hours. When thawed and lightly grilled, the meat retains its sweet, delicate flavor. All you need to do is give their shells a gentle whack to crack them slightly and submerge them in a marinade before grilling. Then it’s time to roll up your sleeves—eating crab this way is messy and fun. If you aren’t coated with herb butter by the time you’re done, you’ve done something wrong.

SERVES 4

3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2 serrano chiles, stemmed, seeded, and chopped

1½ teaspoons fennel seeds

½ teaspoon kosher salt

3 green onions, white and light green parts, thinly sliced

½ cup (20 g) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

½ cup (20 g) chopped fresh cilantro (leaves and tender stems)

½ cup (15 g) fresh mint leaves

¼ cup (60 ml) freshly squeezed lime juice

2 teaspoons fish sauce

¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup unsalted butter (60 g), at room temperature

4 pre-steamed Dungeness crabs (whole or sections), about 3 pounds (1.4 kg), thawed if frozen

Place the garlic, serranos, fennel seeds, and salt in the bowl of a food processor and pulse into a coarse paste. Add the green onions, parsley, cilantro, mint, lime juice, and fish sauce and pulse to combine. With the processor running, drizzle in the olive oil until the mixture pulls together into an even puree, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed. Use a rubber spatula to transfer the mixture to a large mixing bowl, add the butter, and fold together. Add the crabs and toss to combine, using your hands to coat the surface of each crab or section and work the herb mixture into the cracks. Set the crabs aside to marinate while you heat the grill.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the crabs directly on the grates over direct heat and close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke until the edges of the shell begin to char, 2 to 3 minutes per side (use a big metal spatula to flip the crabs). Remove the crabs from the heat and let them cool for 5 minutes. Serve in large shallow bowls (or on newspapers) with plenty of napkins.

SCALLOP SPAGHETTI

with Charred Lemons & Crème Fraîche

Two layers of lemon (grated zest and smoky, charred juice) create a flavor that’s both bright and complex. This recipe calls for Thai basil, but feel free to swap in tarragon, dill, or chives. The final cooking process is brief, and this dish comes together quickly, so get organized before you start cooking by warming the serving bowls, chilling the white wine, and getting a salad ready to toss.

SERVES 4

1 pound (450 g)dry-packed sea scallops

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pinch of red pepper flakes or crumbled chile pequin

1 pound (450 g) best-quality dried spaghetti

2 lemons (preferably organic)

8 ounces (120 g) crème fraîche

Handful of Thai basil leaves

Flaky salt, for garnish

Place the scallops in a bowl and drizzle them with enough olive oil to lightly coat. Season the scallops generously with salt and pepper, add the red pepper flakes and use a rubber spatula to gently combine.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

While the grill heats, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over high heat on the stovetop. Place the scallops in a bowl, drizzle with enough olive oil to coat well and generously season with salt and pepper; set aside. Warm four pasta bowls in a low 200°F (95°C) oven or on an upper rack of your grill, if it has one.

Add the pasta to the pot and cook according to the package instructions until al dente (tender but still firm). Drain the pasta in a colander (do not rinse), reserving ½ cup (120 ml) of the cooking water.

Place a 15-inch (38 cm) paella pan or large cast-iron skillet over direct heat for 10 minutes to warm. While the pan heats, finely grate the zest from the lemons into a small bowl, add the crème fraîche, and stir to combine. Halve the lemons, brush the cut side of each lemon with olive oil, and grill the lemons over direct heat, cut side down, until nicely charred, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the lemons from the heat and set them aside to cool briefly. Squeeze the juice from all 4 halves into a small bowl.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, pour a couple tablespoons of olive oil in the pan, place the scallops in a single layer, and cook until nicely browned on one side, about 2 minutes. Use a fish spatula to flip the scallops and cook again until browned on the second side, 1½ to 2 minutes more. Carefully move the pan to indirect heat. Add the drained pasta, the charred lemon juice, the basil, and the crème fraîche mixture and toss until the pasta is evenly coated. Close the grill for about 30 seconds, then open and toss again. Close the grill for 1 minute more, then remove the pan from the heat. Divide the pasta and scallops among the warm bowls and garnish with a drizzle of olive oil, a grinding of pepper, and a sprinkling of flaky salt.

SMOKED TROUT

Having smoked fish on hand is a luxury that inspires easy meals and impromptu snacks at any time of day. The moist, flaky fish is delicious with scrambled eggs, for instance, or on toasted rye bread in the morning, in green or potato salads for lunch, or as an appetizer (with crackers and lemon). What follows is my basic method for smoking trout, which gives you a feast of smoked fish for brunch, pâté, or a serious spread inspired by Minnesota flavors (see the sidebar, this page). While you can use any variety of trout with this recipe, I usually opt for copper-colored varieties with a higher oil content, like steelhead or arctic char, which helps keep them moist. Don’t forget to account for carryover heat during cooking, meaning the fish will continue to cook as it cools. To avoid overcooking, pull the trout off the heat when the fat begins to bead on the surface and the fish just begins to flake when tested with a fork.

ABOUT 1 POUND; SERVES 4 TO 8

1 skin-on side of steelhead or arctic char (about 1¼ pounds/570 g), or 2 skin-on trout fillets (about 8 ounces/225 g each), pinbones removed

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 or 4 sprigs rosemary, thyme, or dill (enough to cover the fish)

Flaky salt, for garnish

Lemon wedges, for serving

Measure out two sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil that are 12 inches (30 cm) longer than the trout and place them on a rimless baking sheet. Place the trout skin-side down on the foil, drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat, generously season with salt and pepper (use your fingers to spread the seasonings and oil evenly over the flesh), and top with herb sprigs. Set the trout aside to marinate at room temperature while you prepare the grill.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, carefully slide the foil and fish off of the baking sheet and onto the grill over indirect heat. Close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 20 to 30 minutes; be sure to rotate the fish as needed to ensure even cooking. When the trout is cooked (it will feel just firm to the touch and flake easily with a fork), carefully slide the foil and trout back onto the baking sheet and let it rest for 10 minutes. Garnish with a light sprinkling of flaky salt and serve with lemon wedges.

“Up North” Smoked Trout Spread

Every summer, my family escapes the Texas heat to spend a couple of months with my folks in Minnesota. Among the many things I look forward to (in addition to the magical sound of loons—truly a religious experience—and cooking from my mom’s herb garden) are long, lazy smoked fish brunches—an up north tradition. To serve your smoked trout Minnesota-style, round out the table with dill mustard, a wild rice salad (mine usually includes green onions, drained canned chickpeas, golden raisins, and a white wine vinaigrette), salty cheese curds, capers, onions, and crackers. Beef or venison sticks, a pitcher of Bloody Mathildas (this page), and shots of cold aquavit are essential. In the spirit of lake culture, don’t plan much beyond a rousing match of cornhole for the remains of the day.

SMOKED TROUT GRATIN

with Potatoes, Spinach & Cream

Bubbly and warm from the oven, this rich, creamy gratin is the ultimate comfort food on a cold night, especially when its served with sweet, slow-roasted tomatoes and a bottle of red wine. For the best flavor, avoid baby spinach and opt for a local variety (that you’ll likely need to stem and wash yourself); it will give the dish more character. You can use any variety of smoked trout, but I prefer richly colored steelhead or artic char, which has more fat than other varieties.

Note: Use a light hand with seasonings, because the salted smoked trout will infuse the dish with plenty of flavor.

SERVES 4 TO 6

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 shallots, halved and thinly sliced

2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

Pinch of red pepper flakes or crumbled chile pequin

1 sprig thyme

2 fresh bay leaves

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Splash of dry white or rosé wine (optional)

4 cups (950 ml) heavy cream

1 tablespoon Creole mustard or other spicy whole-grain mustard

A few gratings fresh nutmeg

3 large Yukon gold potatoes (about 2 pounds/900 g), peeled and thinly sliced

1 large bunch spinach (10 ounces/280 g), cleaned and coarsely chopped

1 pound (450 g) Smoked Trout (this page), broken into large flakes

¾ cup (45 g) toasted fresh bread crumbs, for topping

¾ cup (85 g) freshly grated Gruyère or Emmental, or ¾ cup (75 g) Parmesan, for topping

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C) and butter a 9 by 13-inch (23 by 33 cm) baking dish.

In a Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the shallots, garlic, red pepper flakes, thyme, and bay leaves and lightly season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring often, until the shallots are fragrant and softened, 4 to 5 minutes. If the shallots begin to stick to the pan, add a splash of wine and continue to cook for a few minutes more. Whisk in the cream, mustard, and nutmeg, and then stir in the sliced potatoes. Turn the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring now and then, just until the mixture begins to bubble, about 8 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and discard the herbs. Add the spinach in large handfuls, letting them wilt before adding more, and cook until the greens are tender, about 4 minutes total.

Spoon half of the potato-spinach mixture into the prepared baking dish and top with the smoked trout in a single, even layer. Spoon the rest of the potatoes over the trout and pour any remaining cream over the dish. Combine the toasted bread crumbs and cheese in a small bowl, then scatter the mixture over the top of the gratin.

Place the baking pan on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until the potatoes are tender and the mixture is bubbly, 55 to 60 minutes (for a crisper crust, give the dish a final 1 to 2 minutes under the broiler). Remove the pan from the oven and let the gratin cool for at least 15 minutes before serving (this will allow the potatoes to absorb the creamy liquid). To serve, cut the grain into generous squares and serve warm. Refrigerate leftovers in a sealed container for up to 4 days.

SMOKY SHRIMP

with Lemony Orzo, Green Olives & Feta

When it comes to grilling shrimp, I don’t like to futz around with skewers because flipping them can be tricky. Instead, I prefer to grill shrimp in a preheated grill basket (with small vents that minimize moisture loss) or better yet, a cast-iron skillet or paella pan that retains all of the flavorful juices. I pour marinated shrimp onto a preheated surface, then use long-handled tongs to shake the skillet every now and then, flip the shrimp, and move the pan away from the heat to avoid flare-ups. The main objective is to keep the shrimp moving so they cook quickly and evenly. This lightly charred shrimp is a natural partner for orzo flavored with lemon zest, grilled lemons, crumbled feta, and olives.

If you prefer to grill directly on the grates, use jumbo shrimp so they’re easier to turn.

SERVES 4 TO 6

2 pounds (900 g) large shrimp, peeled and deveined, without tails

Extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano or marjoram

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

Pinch of red pepper flakes

12 ounces (340 g) orzo

2 lemons

½ bunch green onions, white and light green parts, thinly sliced, or ½ chopped red onion

½ cup (45 g) green olives (any variety), kalamata olives, or oil-cured olives

8 ounces (225 g) crumbled feta cheese

Place the shrimp in a large mixing bowl, drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat, season generously with salt and pepper, and toss to combine. Add the oregano, thyme, and red pepper flakes and toss again, then set aside to marinate at room temperature while you prepare the grill.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

While the grill heats, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the orzo and cook according to the package instructions until al dente (tender but still firm). Drain the orzo in a colander, rinse it briefly, then transfer it to a mixing bowl. Drizzle the pasta with enough olive oil to lightly coat and toss to combine (this will help prevent the pasta from sticking).

Finely grate the zest from 1 lemon and add it to the orzo. Halve both of the lemons horizontally (from stem end to the blossom end).

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, pour the shrimp into the preheated skillet and cook, flipping the shrimp and rotating the pan around the heat (closing the lid in between to make the most of the wood smoke) until just cooked (they will turn opaque and be firm and springy to the touch), 5 to 6 minutes total. Remove the pan from the heat and let the shrimp cool briefly.

Brush the cut sides of the lemons with olive oil and grill the citrus cut-side down over direct heat until dark char marks appear, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add the warm shrimp and any juices to the orzo and toss to combine. Add about ⅓ cup (80 ml) olive oil, the green onions, olives, and feta and toss gently to combine. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding more salt or pepper as desired. Divide the pasta and shrimp among bowls and serve warm or at room temperature with the grilled lemon halves. Refrigerate any leftovers in a sealed container in the fridge for up to 4 days.

TIPSY MUSSELS & CLAMS

with Grilled Bread

Cooked over a wood-infused fire in a fragrant garlic- and shallot-beer broth, these mussels and clams come together quickly and make for a fun and memorable meal. Plenty of grilled bread (to sop up the flavorful cooking liquid) and your favorite pale ale (you’ll want to drink the same beer that you cook the shellfish in) are essential. This dish can be cooked in a deep cast-iron skillet, a 15-inch (38 cm) paella pan, or a French-style crock that can hold up to the heat.

SERVES 4

2 pounds (900 g) mussels

2 dozen littleneck clams

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 shallot, minced

4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

2 dried arbol chiles

2 sprigs thyme

1 cup (240 ml) pale ale

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

½ cup (20 g) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

Grilled bread, for serving

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

While the grill heats, scrub the mussels and clams under running water to remove any grit.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, combine the oil, shallot, garlic, chiles, and thyme sprigs in the preheated skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are fragrant (but not browned), 4 to 5 minutes. Add the clams and beer to the skillet, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 5 minutes. Open the grill and stir in the mussels, then move the pan to indirect heat, close the grill, and smoke 10 minutes more, or until all of the shells have opened.

Transfer the shellfish to a serving bowl (or serve directly from the paella pan, if using). Add the butter, parsley, and lemon zest and toss to combine. Serve immediately with slices of grilled bread.

SMOKY SEAFOOD

with Green Rice

Strange as it may sound, a frozen block of shelled seafood (shrimp, squid, and mussels) spotted at my local Whole Foods was the muse for this dish. The colorful mix of ready-to-go seafood was so appealing that I was determined to find a way to use it. I quickly thought of a hot grill (duh) and spicy, herbaceous arroz verde, or green rice, cooked paella-style. To create a deep green cooking liquid, I pureed poblano and jalapeño chiles, cilantro, and parsley with chicken and fish stock, and pulled in a few other favorite flavors.

When it comes to pulling this dish together, organization is everything (you don’t want to be prepping ingredients while the fire burns down or your fish is overcooking). Read through the recipe a time or two before you get started, and make sure you have everything ready before you even light the fire. Toward the end of the cooking time, you want the fire low enough that the rice can rest and finish (and ideally develop a socarrat, the browned, crunchy crust that defines a great paella) in the closed grill.

SERVES 6 TO 8

4 cups (950 ml) chicken stock

2 cups (475 ml) fish stock or clam broth

½ white onion, coarsely chopped, plus 1 white onion, finely chopped

2 poblano chiles stemmed, seeded, and chopped

1 or 2 jalapeño or serrano chiles, stemmed, seeded, and chopped, as desired for heat

2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed and peeled

1 bunch cilantro (leaves and tender stems)

½ cup (15 g) fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

Handful of fresh spinach or watercress, leaves and tender stems

Kosher salt

2½ pounds (1.1 kg) mixed seafood (such as peeled and deveined shrimp, shelled mussels, and squid parts), thawed if frozen

¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano or marjoram, or 1 teaspoon dried Mexican oregano

2¼ cups (415 g) Bomba or Calasparra rice

Handful of haricots verts, stem ends timmed

¾ cup (100 g) green olives

Hot sauce (such as Cholula), for serving

Lemon or lime wedges, for serving

Combine the chicken and fish stocks, the coarsely chopped onion, the poblanos, jalapeño, garlic, cilantro, parsley, spinach, and 1 teaspoon salt in a blender and puree until smooth, 3 to 4 minutes. Set aside.

Place the seafood in a large mixing bowl, drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat, season generously with salt and pepper, and toss to combine. Set aside.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, drizzle ¼ cup (60 ml) olive oil into the preheated pan and add the finely chopped onion and oregano and cook, stirring often, until the mixture is fragrant and just starting to brown, 3 to 4 minutes.

Add the rice and cook, stirring until the rice is evenly coated in the oil. Add 4 cups (950 ml) of the green stock mixture to the rice and stir once to ensure it is evenly combined. Close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and cook without stirring (rotate the pan as needed for even cooking) until half of the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Add the remaining green stock and nestle the haricots verts, olives, and the seafood into the rice. Cook until all of the liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes more, rotating and/or moving the pan to direct heat, as needed, to maintain a gentle simmer and even cooking.

When all the liquid has been absorbed, remove the pan from the heat and let the dish stand for 10 to 15 minutes to allow the flavors to meld. Serve warm, straight from the pan, using a large metal spoon to scrape up any socarrat (crunchy crust) from the bottom. Pass the hot sauce and lemon wedges at the table.