Thank You for Smoking

CHAPTER EIGHT

POULTRY & PORK

For most of us, dinner means chicken or pork several nights per week, whether it’s crispy, juicy chicken thighs (my favorite meat to grill), a pair of Berkshire chops, or a pork tenderloin sizzled over the grates until deeply browned.

We love these meats for many reasons: they’re affordable, endlessly adaptable, and absolutely shine with just a hint of char from a hot grill. After a long day, I’m happy to give simple herbed chicken breasts a quick spin on the grill, and then serve them over my favorite salad. On weekends, when I have more time to make dinner a production, I will gladly babysit a jalapeno-marinated pork roast for a few hours.

For special occasions and when you have even more time to spend around the fire, check out the longer smokes (identified by ). These recipes are perfect for holidays, birthdays, and any other festive event. The time investment is highly enjoyable and leads to some serious bragging rights when you serve a salad kicked up with your own homemade bacon, a gorgeous bronzed duck smoked over creamy white beans, or a show-stopping holiday ham.

This chapter teaches you to harness the potential of a wood-infused fire to create one-of-a-kind, satisfying meals that you just can’t duplicate indoors.

Doneness Temperature Guidelines

Chicken, Turkey, and Duck

Breasts and other boneless pieces: 165°F (74°C)

Bone-in pieces: 175°F (79°C) to 180°F (82°C)

Pork

Chops/Roast: 160°F (71°C) to 165°F (74°C)

Cured: 140°F (60°C)

GRILLED HERBED CHICKEN BREASTS

with Radicchio

If you’re not already a radicchio fan, this salad will make you one. This recipe is inspired by a salad served at Toro restaurant in Boston that I discovered on Food52. In addition to a wonderful sweet-tart dressing (that begins as quick-pickled red onions), the brilliant trick here is soaking the radicchio in ice water to remove some of its bitterness. The result is a sweeter, crisper version of its former self, with just enough peppery bite. I add oil-cured olives, plenty of Parmesan, and a lightly grilled chicken breast to create the kind of simple—yet incredibly satisfying—meal that I could eat a couple of times a week. The dressing keeps for up to a week in the fridge, so consider prepping the components in advance.

SERVES 4

¼ cup (60 ml) good-quality balsamic vinegar

¼ cup (60 ml) good-quality sherry vinegar

½ medium red onion, chopped

1 tablespoon honey

¾ cup (175 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling

2 heads radicchio

4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano or marjoram

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

Pinch of red pepper flakes

¾ cup (100 g) coarsely grated or finely chopped Parmesan

⅓ cup (45 g) oil-cured black olives

Combine the vinegars, onion, and honey in a glass jar and macerate for 30 minutes, or up to 1 hour, at room temperature. Whisk in the olive oil and set aside.

Cut out the radicchio cores and discard, then chop the heads into 1-inch (2.5 cm) pieces and place them in the basket of a salad spinner. Fill the base of the spinner with ice water, submerge the basket, and chill the radicchio for 15 minutes. Drain the water and spin the radicchio until dry. Refrigerate until you’re ready to serve.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high. When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

While the grill heats, use a meat pounder to pound the chicken breasts to an even ½-inch (1.3 cm) thickness. Place them in a glass baking dish, drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat, and season generously with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the chopped herbs and red pepper flakes over the chicken and use your hands to distribute the seasonings over each piece.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the chicken breasts over direct heat and grill, flipping every minute or so, until lightly charred, 6 to 7 minutes total. Transfer the breasts to a plate and let rest for 5 minutes. Place the radicchio in a bowl, top with a generous drizzle of the dressing, half of the Parmesan, and the olives and toss well. Taste the salad and add additional salt, pepper, or dressing as desired. Divide the salad among four plates and top with the remaining Parmesan and a whole or sliced chicken breast.

WILD WINGS

with Smoked Arbol Honey

When I fell in love with cooking over fire, I discovered that I also adore chicken wings—when they’re grilled. The direct heat of the hot grates renders the fat and creates crispy browned skin and tender, juicy meat enhanced with a wonderful charcoaled flavor that’s worlds apart from the sports bar variety. Hot off the grill, the wings are delicious on their own or tossed with any number of sauces that suit the occasion or whatever you’re craving (e.g., herb butter, hot sauce, or sambal-spiked mayo). In this version, Smoked Arbol Honey, one of my larder staples, creates a sweet and spicy glaze that’s brightened with fresh oregano and a squeeze of citrus juice. Serve these wings as a party appetizer (they’re easy to cook while you sip a beverage and chat with friends), as a snack while you’re waiting on a Longer Smoke, or a roll-up-your-sleeves dinner on game night—with plenty of napkins and cold cans of your favorite local brew.

SERVES 4

3 pounds (1.4 kg) chicken wing drumettes

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup (60 ml) Smoked Arbol Honey (this page)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed tangerine, orange, or lime juice (or a combination of both)

Place the drumettes in a large bowl, drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat, generously season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

While the grill heats, in a separate bowl, whisk together the arbol honey, oregano, and citrus juice.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the drumettes over direct heat and cook, flipping and rotating them around the fire as needed for even cooking, until they’re nicely charred on all sides, 5 to 7 minutes. Then move the chicken to indirect heat (you can even stack them up, if needed, for space), close the grill, and smoke, turning the drumettes every few minutes (and closing the grill lid in between), until they’re cooked through and the juices run clear (if you’re uncertain, cut into one to check), about 20 minutes more. Place the hot drumettes in the bowl with the honey mixture and toss vigorously. Taste and add more salt and/or citrus juice, if desired, and serve warm. Refrigerate leftovers in a sealed container for up to 4 days.

TORTILLA SOUP

with Smoked Chicken

The tomato base for this iconic soup is an elegant puree that showcases the complex flavor of smoked broth. The bowl becomes significantly more substantial—and the texture of the soup thickens—after you add the garnishes: crunchy strips of fried tortillas, grated Cheddar, avocado, cilantro, and lime. The Smoked Chicken Stock can be made well in advance and adds tremendous depth. In a pinch, you can use store-bought stock instead, and the results will still be delicious. Make this soup even more luxurious by topping each bowl with a drizzle of Mexican crema.

Note: Most dried chiles already have a smoky flavor, but you can enhance their earthy, complex flavors by toasting the chiles (try ancho, New Mexico, or guajillo) in a dry skillet over medium heat (or directly on the grill grates over a medium fire), until puffed and a shade darker.

SERVES 6 TO 8

Peanut or vegetable oil, for frying

8 corn tortillas, halved and cut crosswise into ¼-inch (6 mm) strips

1 large white onion, chopped

1 large carrot, peeled and diced

2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

1½ teaspoons dried Mexican oregano

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground coriander

Kosher salt

2 quarts (1.9 L) Smoked Chicken Stock (this page) or regular chicken stock

One 28-ounce (794 g) can crushed tomatoes (preferably organic)

2 fresh bay leaves

1 dried chile (see Note)

4 cups (600 g) chopped smoked chicken (see this page)

Freshly ground black pepper

1 avocado, thinly sliced or cut into ½-inch (1.3 cm) dice, for garnish

½ cup (55 g) grated sharp Cheddar cheese, for garnish

Chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish

Lime wedges, for serving

In a large heavy skillet, heat ½ inch (1.3 cm) of frying oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot and shimmering, add half of the tortilla strips and fry until golden, about 1 minute (stirring a couple times to keep them from clumping). Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels; repeat with the remaining strips.

Drain all but 3 tablespoons of the oil and reduce the heat to medium. Add the onion, carrot, garlic, oregano, cumin, coriander, and a sprinkle of salt and cook, stirring frequently, for 5 minutes. Add the stock, tomatoes, bay leaves, and dried chile and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to low and simmer for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Discard the bay leaves and dried chile stem, then transfer the soup to a blender (in batches if necessary) and puree until very smooth. (When blending hot liquids, remove the cap in the blender top and replace it with a kitchen towel to allow steam to release.) Alternately, use an immersion blender right in the pot. Return the puree to the pot, add the smoked chicken, and let it return to a simmer. Cook for 15 minutes more, until the chicken begins to soften and yield to the broth. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding salt and pepper as desired.

To serve, ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with the tortilla strips, avocado, cheese, cilantro, and a squeeze of fresh lime. Refrigerate leftover soup in sealed containers for up to 1 week.

CHICKEN THIGHS

with Smoked Green Olive Tapenade

Chicken thighs are my favorite meat to grill. They’re inexpensive, forgiving (rich dark meat is less likely to dry out over the heat), and incredibly satisfying. Your goal is to crisp the skin over direct heat, and then allow the thighs to finish cooking to juicy perfection over indirect heat. Olives and lemons are natural allies with chicken. Here, a piquant tapenade made with smoked olives brings savory brightness to the luscious meat (you’ll want to have bread on hand to sop up everything on the plate). I prefer an equal mix of regular and smoked olives, but feel free to adjust the ratio as you see fit. You can serve the thighs over a schmear of the tapenade (thin it as desired with additional olive oil) and a handful of feathery frisée leaves, or serve the olive puree on the side as a condiment.

SERVES 4

8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 sprigs fresh thyme, rosemary, or marjoram

½ cup (75 g) Green Olive Tapenade (this page), or more as desired

Handful of frisée or other greens for serving (optional)

Place the thighs in a large bowl, drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat, season generously with salt and pepper and the herb sprigs and toss to combine. Set aside at room temperature while you prepare the grill.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

Place the thighs over direct heat, skin-side down and top with the herb sprigs. Close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke the chicken for about 4 minutes, until nice char marks form. Flip the thighs (use your tongs to reposition the herbs on top of the chicken, or discard) and smoke for about 3 minutes more, until you have nice char marks on both sides. Move the thighs to indirect heat, close the grill, and continue to cook for about 25 minutes more, flipping and rotating the thighs around the heat every 5 minutes or so, until the chicken is a rich mahogany and the meat feels firm but not dry to the touch. Transfer the thighs to a cutting board to rest for 10 minutes before serving with the tapenade and frisée. Refrigerate leftover chicken in a sealed container for up to 5 days.

TWO SMOKED BIRDS

My approach to most things in life is “more is more.” Why buy one kind of fruit when you can fill the bowl with an abundant still life? When you discover a perfectly dry cava, why not get a case so you can be prepared? If you’re going to build a fire to smoke a chicken, why not smoke two? That way, you have a sumptuous, juicy bird for dinner, plus extra for tacos, sandwiches, salads, or two of my favorites—tortilla soup (see this page) and crispy flautas (see this page)—for another night. As much as I adore the flavor of smoked chicken, the real star here is the rich, smoky pan drippings and the smoked carcass that provides the foundation for incredible Smoked Chicken Stock (this page).

My grill retains heat exceptionally well, so if I begin with one chimney of coals and a couple of chunks of wood or a log nestled against the coals—I usually don’t need to add more fuel to smoke two chickens (which usually takes just over an hour, plus resting time) at 350° (175°C). If the temperature does start to dip to 300°F (150°C) toward the end, I simply add another wood chunk or two or a couple more chunks of lump charcoal (they ignite quickly) or adjust the vents to kick up the fire with more oxygen.

The nice thing about grill-roasting at a moderate temperature is that you can actually use your hands to handle what you’re cooking, which is handy when you want to move the chickens around for even cooking. I typically slide a fish spatula (or any large flat metal spatula) under the chicken (being careful not to lose the crispy skin that’s been created) and use my hand to flip the chickens and rotate them. I find that if you get too caught up in only using tools, you’re more likely to lose balance and pierce the meat or tear the skin. To avoid overcooking the breast meat, finish cooking with the chicken legs positioned closest to the fire.

MAKES 2 SMOKED CHICKENS

Two 4- to 4½-pound (1.8 to 2 kg) chickens

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 small yellow onion, quartered

1 lemon, quartered

4 sprigs thyme

4 fresh bay leaves

2 rosemary sprigs

Drizzle the chickens with enough olive oil to lightly coat and generously season the inside and outside of the chickens with salt and pepper. Insert 2 onion quarters, 2 lemon quarters, 2 thyme sprigs, 2 bay leaves, and 1 rosemary sprig inside the cavity of each chicken.

Position the chickens on a work surface, breast side up, with the legs pointing toward you. Center a 2-foot (60 cm) piece of butcher’s twine under the back of a bird and bring both sides around the wings (securing them to the carcass) and up and around the legs (securing them together). Repeat with the second chicken, then set aside at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, or up to 1 hour.

Meanwhile, prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, use tongs to remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of warm water on the side with no coals (see Step Up Your Pan Drippings, this page) and add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Return the cooking grate to its position, allow it to preheat, and then carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the chickens, breast-side up, over the drip pan, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 35 minutes, maintaining a grill temperature between 325°F (165°C) and 350°F (175°C). (This is a good time to refill and light your charcoal chimney so you have hot coals ready if you think you’ll need them.) Using your tongs and your hands, carefully flip the chickens and rotate them from back to front. Close the grill and continue to smoke, maintaining a steady temperature, until the meat is cooked through and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the chicken leg reads 175°F (79°C), 35 to 40 minutes more.

Depending on the size of your birds and the temperature and model of your grill, the chickens might not take on a beautiful browned color when cooked over indirect heat. To achieve a darker, crisper skin, move them over direct heat during the last 10 to 20 minutes of cooking, carefully flipping and turning the chickens as needed for even coloring.

Transfer the chickens to a cutting board to rest for at least 15 minutes, or up to 30 minutes, before carving. Use a knife to quarter or carve the chicken as desired, and serve immediately. Store the second bird (whole or sectioned, as you prefer) and any leftovers in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Step Up Your Pan Drippings

While the chickens roast, smoky juices collect in the drip pan, which is already filled with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water. Since these juices heat for about an hour, why not flavor them to create a sauce for your chicken or build a base for stock (see Smoked Chicken Stock, this page)? To do this, add the chicken neck you pulled from the bird (along with any necks or backs that you’ve been saving in the freezer), a crushed garlic clove or two, herb sprigs, a few raw onion quarters, and a dried chile. While the cooked chicken rests, strain the liquid from the drip pan through a fine-mesh sieve and cook it in a small saucepan on the stove over medium heat until it thickens to your desired consistency.

SMOKED CHICKEN STOCK

This rich, smoky stock made from the carcass of a smoked chicken (or two) might be my favorite recipe in this book. The deeply flavored results are so satisfying and elevate countless meals, including soups, gumbo, chicken and dumplings, risotto, and more. It’s also a delicious base for cooking dried beans (think smoky pintos or creamy white beans to serve with a pork roast).

When I smoke chickens with the intention of making stock (which is pretty much all the time), I put the drip pan to work. Since it catches all the delicious seasoned drippings and heats for more than an hour, I infuse that liquid with additional aromatics, just as I would when simmering stock. It’s smart to get in the habit of stockpiling flavor enhancers—whenever I ask a butcher to spatchcock or split chickens for me, I save the backbone and freeze it for these occasions. When I know that I’m going to use the pan drippings for cooking, I take extra care to keep them free of ash. I clean the grates before I place the pan on the grill, and I use a light hand when moving the hot embers or adding more fuel so I don’t send a flurry of ash into my pan. Because a few black flecks of ash do inevitably end up in the liquid, I strain it through a fine-mesh sieve before serving or adding to stock.

Adjust the amount of water to your other ingredients and the size of your pot (you want the carcasses to be floating and mostly covered with water). I usually end up with about 2 quarts (1.9 L) of stock.

MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS (1.9 L)

1 smoked chicken carcass, plus additional chicken parts from the drip pan (such as smoked chicken backs and necks)

2 whole cloves

1 white or yellow onion, quartered

1 carrot, peeled and chopped

2 stalks celery, chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

3 or 4 stems fresh flat-leaf parsley, to taste

3 or 4 fresh bay leaves, torn

6 black peppercorns

2 teaspoons kosher salt

8 to 10 cups water (1.9 to 2.4 L)

Place the carcass in a large stockpot. Spear the cloves into 2 of the onion quarters and add them to the pot along with the remaining onion quarters, the carrot, celery, garlic, parsley, bay leaves (to taste), peppercorns, salt, and enough of the water so the carcass is floating and mostly covered by water. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, then immediately turn the heat to low and simmer very gently for 4 to 6 hours (as long as you have time for), skimming as necessary.

Once the stock has reached your desired concentration, remove the pan from the heat and let it cool for 10 minutes. Discard the solids and strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a glass container. Refrigerate the stock for at least 2 hours or overnight, then skim the fat from the top. Store in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week or freeze for up to 4 months.

GINGER-GARLIC CHICKEN

For a marinade that’s whisked together in minutes, this one delivers incredible ginger, garlic, and umami flavor and creates a beautiful lacquered crust. To make prep even easier, ask your butcher to split the chicken for you, and save the backbone for stock (see this page). The radiant heat of the grill cooks the chicken halves evenly, crisps the skin, and adds a wonderful charcoaled flavor. For this recipe, it’s important to maintain a moderate temperature of 325°F (165°C) to 350°F (175°C) so the ginger and garlic paste skin don’t burn. Japanese whisky is delicious, and thematically fun here, but you can use any variety. Serve this chicken with sautéed Asian greens, grilled broccolini, and steamed jasmine rice.

SERVES 4

½ cup (120 ml) tamari

2 tablespoons Japanese whisky

2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger

3 cloves garlic, finely grated

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

1 tablespoon fermented Korean red chile paste (gochujang)

1 teaspoon kosher salt

One 4- to 4½-pound (1.8 to 2 kg) chicken, split in half lengthwise

In a mixing bowl, whisk together the tamari, whisky, ginger, garlic, brown sugar, gochujang, and salt to make a marinade. Place the chicken halves in a baking dish. Pour three-quarters of the marinade over the chicken and reserve the rest. Use your hands to coat the entire surface of the chicken pieces with the marinade (flipping them three or four times as you go). Let the chickens marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, use tongs to remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of warm water on the side with no coals, and add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Return the cooking grate to its position, allow it to preheat, and then carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the chicken halves, skin-side down, over direct heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for about 35 minutes, flipping the chickens every 7 to 8 minutes and brushing on more marinade after each turn. The chickens are done when they are very juicy, the meat pulls easily away from the bone, and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the chicken leg reads 175°F (79°C).

Transfer the chickens to a cutting board to rest for 10 minutes, then cut into serving portions and serve immediately.

SISSY’S FLAUTAS

with Avocado Crema

When my family moved to Texas, I fell in love with flautas, snug cylinders of corn tortillas (flauta is Spanish for “flute”) rolled around a meat filling (typically beef or chicken) and fried until crisp. In restaurants, they’re a guilty pleasure, but they’re often greasy, and the accoutrements can be uninspired. The first time my friend Melissa Garnett (aka Sissy) prepared them for me, served with a pile of thinly sliced cabbage, radishes, a dusting of grated Cotija cheese and drizzle of spicy crema, I swooned. When I get effusive and tell her they’re my favorite thing (and annual birthday dinner request), she shakes her head and laughs because they’re so simple. But when all the other elements come together and they’re made with great ingredients (like smoked chicken), flautas are the perfect home-style meal for family and friends, and better than anything you’ll find in a restaurant. Once you get your rhythm down, you’ll be able to fry several of them at once.

SERVES 4

Avocado Crema

1 cup (220 g) Mexican crema

1 ripe avocado

3 or 4 pickled jalapeño slices

1 tablespoon pickled jalapeño brine, plus more as desired

1 serrano chile (fresh or charred on the grill), stemmed, halved, and seeded

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh cilantro (leaves and tender stems)

Flautas

Peanut or vegetable oil, for frying

About 4 cups (520 g) lightly shredded smoked chicken (this page)

Kosher salt

16 best-quality 6-inch (15 cm) corn tortillas

½ small napa cabbage, very thinly sliced (about 3 cups/210 g), for garnish

6 to 8 radishes, thinly sliced, for garnish

½ cup (20 g) chopped fresh cilantro (leaves and tender stems), for garnish

½ cup (50 g) grated Cotija cheese, for garnish

Red salsa, for serving

To make the avocado crema, combine the crema, avocado, jalapeño and its brine, serrano, and cilantro in a blender or the bowl of a food processor and blend until very smooth. Taste the crema and add more jalapeño brine, if desired, then transfer to a serving dish and set aside.

To make the flautas, in a large heavy skillet (preferably cast iron), heat ½ inch (1.3 cm) of frying oil. Place a wire cooling rack on a rimmed baking sheet and preheat the oven to 200°F (95°C).

Lightly season the chicken with salt. Wrap the tortillas in a damp kitchen towel and microwave until softened and pliable, about 20 seconds. Working with 1 tortilla at a time, place about 2 tablespoons of the chicken in the middle of a tortilla and wrap it into a snug cylinder. Using tongs or your fingers, carefully place the flauta, seam-side down, into the hot oil and fry until the tortilla is golden brown and melds with the filling, about 45 seconds. Use tongs to flip the tortilla and cook the other side until golden brown, about 45 seconds more. Remove the flauta from the oil, allowing excess oil to drain back into skillet, then place it on the wire rack in the warm oven. Repeat with the remaining chicken and tortillas (once you get the rhythm down, you’ll be able to cook 3 or 4 at once).

Serve the flautas warm, on top of the cabbage, radishes, cilantro, a generous drizzle of the avocado crema, a sprinkling of Cotija, and your favorite red salsa on the side.

SOUTH TEXAS–STYLE TURKEY

The swoon-worthy results and surprising ease of cooking a whole turkey over a wood-infused fire just might make you rethink your traditional Thanksgiving menu. Two things bring this method together: Butterflying the turkey creates a broad, flat surface that cooks more quickly and evenly. And to address the perennial quandary of how to cook the turkey through without drying out the breast meat, the coals are arranged in a crescent shape that allows both parts of the bird reach the ideal temperatures at the same time.

You can ask your butcher to spatchcock the turkey for you, or you can wrangle it yourself with poultry shears (be sure to reserve the backbone, neck, and giblets for making turkey stock or gravy). It’s important to maintain the grill at a medium heat of 325°F (165°C) to 350°F (175°C) so the skin doesn’t get too dark while the meat cooks through. To account for carryover cooking (which is more significant with a large bird), I pull the turkey off the grill at the lower end of the doneness range. Slathered with warm spices, this turkey is delicious on its own, with gravy, in tacos, and sliced for sandwiches.

SERVES 10 TO 12

One 12- to 15-pound (5.4 to 6.8 kg) turkey

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup (50 g) packed light brown sugar

2 tablespoons ground cumin

2 tablespoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons dried Mexican oregano

2 teaspoons sweet paprika

2 teaspoons pure ground chile powder (such as New Mexico or ancho)

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

At least 1 hour before cooking, spatchcock the turkey. Rinse the carcass under cold water, pat it dry with paper towels, and place it on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle both sides of the bird with oil and season generously with salt and pepper.

In a small bowl, stir together the brown sugar, cumin, coriander, oregano, paprika, chile powder, and vinegar until it forms a thick paste. Use your hands to slather the mixture over both sides of the turkey and set it aside to marinate while you prepare the fire.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, use your tongs to arrange them into a crescent moon shape and add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the turkey on the grill, skin-side down, with the turkey legs and thighs situated over the direct heat of the coals and the breast toward indirect heat. Close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 2 to 2½ hours, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads between 175°F (79°C) and 180°F (82°C) and the breast reads between 160°F (71°C) and 165°F (74°C). Add additional hot coals or wood chunks as needed to maintain a steady temperature between 325°F (165°C) and 350°F (175°C).

Transfer the turkey to a cutting board to rest for at least 20 minutes, then slice it into portions and serve immediately.

FIVE-SPICE DUCK BREASTS

The intoxicating fragrance of Chinese five-spice powder (made with fennel, clove, star anise, cinnamon, and Sichuan pepper) is an easy ally to the rich flavor of duck. Many people are intimidated to prepare duck at home, but with attention to a few key details, grilling duck breasts couldn’t be easier and yields crispy, impressive results. Scoring the skin allows the fat to render and crisp. You don’t want a scorching fire here—a moderate flame will cook the meat evenly and help avoid flare-ups that can burn the exterior of the meat. Despite its fatty skin, duck meat is actually quite lean and tends to dry out if you cook it past medium-rare, so pay attention to doneness toward the end of the process. Serve the sliced, grilled meat atop a slather of smoked almond butter or a pile of frisée with a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds.

SERVES 4 TO 6

Four 10-ounce (280 g) Muscovy duck breast halves, with skin

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons Chinese five-spice powder

Smoked Marcona Almond Butter (this page), for serving (optional)

Handful of frisee, for serving (optional)

Pomegranate seeds, for garnish (optional)

Using a sharp knife, score the skin of each breast in a crosshatch pattern, making sure that you don’t cut into the meat. Generously season both sides the breasts with salt, pepper, and the five-spice powder. Set aside while you prepare the grill (the breasts can also be seasoned and refrigerated a day in advance; just bring them to room temperature before cooking).

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the duck breasts over direct heat, skin-side down, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke until lightly charred and crisp, about 4 minutes. Use tongs to flip the breasts and cook for 4 to 5 minutes more, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast reads 125°F (52°C) for medium-rare. Transfer the duck to a cutting board to rest for 10 minutes.

To serve, slice the meat thinly across the grain on a diagonal and arrange on a platter over the nut butter or a pile of frisée, and garnish with pomegranate seeds. Refrigerate leftovers in a sealed container for up to 4 days.

SMOKED DUCK

with Chateau Salt & White Beans

Smoking a seasoned duck over a pan of white beans creates a cassoulet-style feast of deep flavors and buttery textures. My favorite beans for this recipe are Marcella beans, which are available online from Rancho Gordo. The thin-skinned beans don’t require soaking and have a creamy texture. Depending on how long it takes for your duck to cook, you might need to finish off the beans on the stovetop, but they’ll be well on their way and intensely flavored.

SERVES 4 TO 6

Duck

One 4½- to 5-pound (2 to 2.3 kg) duck, thawed if frozen

1½ teaspoons black peppercorns

1 teaspoon pink peppercorns

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 teaspoon allspice berries

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 small onion, quartered

3 or 4 fresh bay leaves

White Beans

1 pound (450 g) dried white beans (preferably Marcella)

2 cups (475 ml) Smoked Chicken Stock (this page) or regular chicken stock

2 cups (475 ml) water

1 white or yellow onion, chopped

3 cloves garlic

3 or 4 fresh bay leaves

4 or 5 sprigs marjoram, oregano, or thyme

1 duck neck (included with the carcass)

1 or 2 dried arbol chiles, as desired for heat

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Sherry vinegar

To prep the duck, remove any organ meats from the carcass (reserve the neck for the beans), rinse it under cold water, pat dry with paper towels, and place on a rimmed baking sheet. In a small bowl, combine the peppercorns, fennel seeds, allspice, and salt. Season the inside and outside of the duck with the spice mixture. Insert the onion quarters and bay leaves inside the cavity.

To make the beans, combine the beans, stock, water, onion, garlic, bay leaves, herbs, duck neck, and chile in a disposable aluminum pan.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, use tongs to remove the cooking grate and place the pan of white beans on the side with no coals. Return the cooking grate to its position and place the duck, breast-side up, directly on the grate over the beans. Close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for about 1½ hours, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads between 160°F (70°C) and 170°F (80°C) and the breast reads between 145°F (62°C) and 150°F (68°C). Add hot coals or wood chunks as needed to maintain a steady temperature of around 300°F (150°C). Transfer the duck to a cutting board to rest for at least 20 minutes.

Remove the beans from the grill and taste. If they aren’t quite done, transfer them to a pot and simmer over medium-low heat on the stovetop. When the beans are creamy and tender, discard the onion, bay leaves (to taste), herbs, duck neck, and chile. Season to taste with salt and pepper and a splash of sherry vinegar.

To serve, slice the duck into portions and serve it alongside the warm beans. Refrigerate leftovers in a sealed container for up to 5 days.

JALAPEÑO PORK SHOULDER

Slathered with spicy marinade, this richly flavored roast is both succulent and brightly flavored, thanks to fresh jalapeño, thyme, and oregano. The marinade comes together in minutes, so it’s easy to prepare the meat in the morning, or the night before a backyard party. The meat requires about three hours of cooking time, so depending on your grill (and how well it holds heat), you’ll need to add hot coals every hour or so. I love to serve this roast with a mustardy red cabbage slaw and crackly ciabatta rolls, but it’s also delicious alongside white beans (simmered with a Parmesan rind) or steamed rice. The availability of pork shoulder varies from week to week at my market. Sometimes the shoulders have smallish bones; other times they’re boneless. You can absolutely use either one for this recipe, just keep in mind that the boneless cut may take a bit longer to cook. Regardless, let the internal temperature of the meat and the feel (it should be fork-tender when it comes off the grill) be your guide.

SERVES 8 TO 10

2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed and peeled

2 jalapeño chiles, stemmed, halved, and seeded

2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves

2 tablespoons kosher salt

1 tablespoon pink peppercorns

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

Finely grated zest of 2 oranges

⅓ cup (80 ml) freshly squeezed orange juice

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

One 5- to 6-pound (2.2 to 2.7 kg) bone-in pork shoulder

4 cups (280 g) Red Cabbage Slaw (see this page), for serving

8 to 10 ciabatta rolls, split, for serving

Combine the garlic, jalapeños, thyme, oregano, salt, peppercorns, and pepper in the bowl of a food processor and pulse into a coarse puree. Add the orange zest, orange juice, and olive oil and process until combined.

Place the pork in a baking dish. Using a paring knife, make small incisions about ½ inch (1.3 cm) deep on all sides of the pork shoulder. Pour the jalapeño mixture over the meat and use your hands to coat all sides, gently working the mixture into the incisions. Cover the meat with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 1 day.

About 1 hour before smoking, remove the pork from the refrigerator.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, use tongs to remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of warm water on the side with no coals, and add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the pork (with the marinade still clinging to it) over indirect heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for about 3 hours, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center of the roast reads 170°F (80°C). Add additional hot coals or wood chunks as needed to maintain a steady temperature of 325°F (165°c) to 350°F (175°C).

Remove the pork from heat and allow it to rest in a baking dish (to capture its juices) for at least 15 minutes, or up to 30 minutes, before slicing. You can cut the meat into thick or thin slices, or use to forks to shred it. Either way, drizzle the pork with the meaty juices before serving a generous portion on the rolls with ½ cup (35 g) or so of slaw on top.

RED RIVER RIBS

Rib lovers are a passionate bunch, with strong opinions about their favorite cut and style. I love a dry rub that relies on warm red spices—a style that’s associated with Memphis. After the ribs have absorbed smoke for a couple of hours, I finish them in the oven (you could also finish them on the grill if you maintain the fire). The low heat allows the meat to gently braise in the seasoned juices, resulting in tender, fragrant ribs that will disappear from the table quickly.

SERVES 4 TO 6

3 tablespoons kosher salt

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon sweet paprika

1 tablespoon garlic granules

1 tablespoon ground coriander

1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons Korean red pepper flakes (gochugaru)

2 racks St. Louis-style spare ribs (about 4¼ pounds/2 kg), trimmed

Hot sauce or barbecue sauce, for serving (optional)

In a small bowl, combine the salt, paprika, garlic granules, coriander, black pepper, and Korean red pepper flakes. Sprinkle the mixture over both sides of each rib rack, then use your hands to coat the surfaces evenly with the seasoning. Place the racks on a platter and let them rest at room temperature for 30 minutes, or wrap them well with plastic and refrigerate for up to 2 days. (Let the meat come to room temperature before grilling.)

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high. When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, use tongs to remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of warm water on the side with no coals, and add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the ribs over indirect heat (if a portion of the rack stretches over the coals, it’s okay), close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 30 minutes, using the vents to maintain a temperature of 275°F (135°C) to 300°F (150°C). Use tongs to flip and rotate the ribs, so the opposite side is stretching over the coals. Close the grill and smoke for 1½ hours more, flipping and rotating the ribs every 30 minutes, adding more coals and wood as needed to maintain a steady temperature and smoke flow, until the ribs are deeply fragrant and have a nice crisp crust.

Preheat the oven to 225°F (108°C). Cover a rimmed baking sheet with a piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil and top the foil with two layers of parchment paper. Stack the racks on top of each other on the baking sheet. Wrap the racks tightly in the paper and foil packet, and cook in the oven for 2 hours. Remove the racks from the oven and let them rest in the packet for at least 10 minutes and up to 30 minutes.

To serve, unwrap the racks, slice into individual ribs, and serve with your favorite sauce on the side.

LUXEMBOURG-STYLE FRISÉE SALAD

Back when I lived in New York, my friend Chip and I often ended late nights on the town at Café Luxembourg, where we’d sip Côtes du Rhône and nibble frites at the bar, look for celebrities, and watch the circus of Lincoln Center roll in. And eventually, we’d both dig into the “country” French salad—a tumble of frisée lettuce, chewy lardons, croutons made with a hearty, country-style French bread, and blue cheese—without a doubt, the most inspired combination to ever grace a salad menu. To this day, whenever feathery, pale green and white heads of frisée appear in the market, I know exactly what’s for dinner. To make this salad even more satisfying, top it off with a soft-poached egg.

SERVES 4

Croutons

Two 1-inch (2.5 cm)-thick slabs miche or levain bread, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, or 1½ teaspoon dried herbes de Provence, for seasoning

Salad

4 thick strips Cowgirl Bacon (this page), cut into ½-inch (1.3 cm) cubes

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 generous tablespoon Dijon mustard

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (90 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

2 heads frisée, cored and cut into 2-inch (5 cm) pieces

1 cup (75 g) crumbled blue cheese

2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives or chervil

To make the croutons, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Place the bread cubes on a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle them with enough olive oil to lightly coat, and season generously with salt, pepper, and thyme. Toss to combine, then bake the croutons for 9 to 11 minutes, until golden (flip them one or two times while they bake). Remove from the oven and set aside.

To make the salad, heat a skillet over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and fry until browned and crisp but still moist, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate to drain and set aside.

On a cutting board, use the flat side of a chef’s knife to mash the garlic with a pinch of salt until a paste forms. In a large salad bowl, whisk together the garlic paste, shallots, vinegar, lemon juice, and mustard. Whisk in the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Place the frisée in the bowl with the dressing and toss until evenly coated. Add the bacon, blue cheese, chives, and croutons and toss again. Serve immediately.

HOLIDAY HAM

with Red Boat Salt

Moist and slightly sweet, spiral-cut hams—the ones that most of us serve for the holidays—can be flavored more dramatically and given a deeper smoke flavor on the grill. In this version, Red Boat salt (essentially a dehydrated version of the brand’s popular fish sauce), bourbon, and other aromatics infuse the meat with umami notes that play beautifully with pork’s inherent sweetness. For the best results, seek out an artisanal ham from a heritage breed like Berkshire, Duroc, or Red Wattle.

Note: If you are using a spiral-cut ham, place it in the roasting pan cut side down so the ham slices are parallel to the grill grate. The weight of the ham compresses the slices and reduces moisture loss.

SERVES 16 TO 20, WITH DELICIOUS LEFTOVERS

1 cup (240 ml) bourbon

½ cup (100 g) packed dark brown sugar

2 tablespoons Creole mustard, or other spicy whole-grain mustard

2 tablespoons Red Boat salt, or ⅓ cup fish sauce

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon fennel seeds, lightly crushed

1 tablespoon coriander seeds, lightly crushed

½ teaspoon cayenne

One 7- to 8-pound (3.2 to 3.6 kg) fully cooked smoked bone-in ham

Combine the bourbon, brown sugar, mustard, Red Boat salt, soy sauce, fennel seeds, coriander seeds, and cayenne in a saucepan and cook over medium heat just until the sugar dissolves, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let the glaze cool.

Using a sharp knife, score the ham in a crosshatch pattern, about 1 inch (2.5 cm) apart and ½ inch (1.3 cm) deep on all sides except the cut side. Place the ham, cut side down, in a roasting pan or large disposable aluminum pan. Brush some of the glaze over the top (don’t use all of it; you’ll be repeating this process on the grill). Loosely tent the ham with aluminum foil and set aside.

Meanwhile, prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-low fire, or heat a gas grill to medium.

When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, use tongs to remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of warm water on the side with no coals, and add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the ham over indirect heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 2 to 2½ hours, brushing the ham with additional glaze every 30 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the ham (but not touching the bone) registers 120°F (49°C). Add additional hot coals or wood chunks as needed to maintain a steady temperature between 325°F (165°C) and 350°F (175°C). Remove the foil and continue to cook the ham until the glaze is bubbling and caramelized and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the ham reads 135°F (58°C), about 30 minutes more.

Transfer the ham to a cutting board, tent it with foil, and let it rest for about 20 minutes before carving. Pour any remaining glaze into the roasting pan and heat the mixture on the grill or stove over medium-low heat, gently whisking, until everything that is baked onto the pan dissolves into the glaze. Simmer until syrupy, 4 to 5 minutes.

Carve the ham as desired and arrange on a platter. Serve with the pan juices.

CRISPY LEMONGRASS CHOPS

with Charred Green Beans & Noodles

I don’t think I’ve ever met a Vietnamese-style noodle salad I didn’t like. However, there’s a big difference between mediocre takeout and the stellar creations you can make at home when you seek out the best, freshest ingredients and add a hot, smoky grill. In this recipe, a fragrant lemongrass marinade is whizzed together in minutes and infuses pork chops and green beans with a sweet-and-spicy flavor. By the time you’ve prepared the fire, the meat and green beans are ready to be quickly charred and served with a heap of chilled rice noodles, fresh herbs, and vegetables. Nuoc cham, a Vietnamese dipping sauce, pulls all the flavors together. Rather than using the skinny “stick” vermicelli, I like the wider, linguine-size rice noodles that can hold up to all the ingredients.

SERVES 4 TO 6

⅓ cup plus 2 tablespoons (100 g) packed light brown sugar

4 stalks lemongrass, white and light green parts, thinly sliced

2 shallots, thinly sliced

One 1-inch (2.5 cm) piece ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped

4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

⅓ cup (80 ml) fish sauce (preferably Red Boat)

2 tablespoons soy sauce or mushroom soy sauce

2 tablespoons canola oil

1 tablespoon cornstarch

10 to 12 thin-cut pork chops (1¾ to 2 pounds/795 to 900 g)

One 14-ounce (400 g) package flat (linguine-shaped) rice noodles

1 pound (450 g) haricots verts or regular green beans

1 handful (about ¾ cup/30 g) lightly chopped fresh herbs (preferably a mix of mint, cilantro, and Thai basil)

1 cup (105 g) thinly sliced Persian cucumbers

½ cup (60 g) Curry-Chile Peanuts (this page) or salted roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Lime wedges, for serving

Nuoc Cham

½ cup (120 ml) freshly squeezed lime juice

⅓ cup (80 ml) fish sauce (preferably Red Boat)

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

6 to 8 tablespoons (90 to 120 ml) water

1 clove garlic, minced

1 Thai bird’s-eye or pequin chile, stemmed and finely chopped

Place the brown sugar, lemongrass, shallots, ginger, and garlic in the bowl of a food processor and process into a rough paste. Use a rubber spatula to transfer the paste to a bowl and whisk in the fish sauce, soy sauce, canola oil, and cornstarch. Place the pork chops in a large sealable plastic bag, pour in three-quarters of the marinade, press out excess air, and seal. Marinate the meat at room temperature for 30 minutes, or refrigerate for up to 12 hours (remove the pork from the refrigerator 30 minutes before grilling). Set the remaining marinade aside.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

To make the nuoc cham, in a small bowl, whisk together the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, 6 tablespoons (90 ml) of the water, the garlic, and bird’s-eye chile. The dressing will taste very pungent (add additional water, if desired), but the noodles and other ingredients will balance the sharp edges. Set the dressing aside.

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the noodles and cook according to the package instructions until tender but not mushy. Immediately drain the noodles in a colander, rinse them briefly with cold water, and set aside to drain again.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the chops over direct heat and grill for 3 to 4 minutes, turning the chops frequently and shifting them to the cooler side of the grill if there are excessive flare-ups, until they are charred and just cooked through. Remove the chops from the heat and let the meat rest.

Place a grill basket over direct heat for 5 minutes. Place the green beans in a bowl, drizzle them with the remaining marinade, and toss to coat. Add the beans to the hot grill basket and cook, shaking the basket or tossing the beans with tongs for 2 to 3 minutes, until nicely charred. Remove the basket from the heat.

Place the noodles on a large serving platter and top with the pork (and any of its juices) and the charred green beans. Sprinkle the herbs, cucumber, and peanuts over the top, then drizzle everything with nuoc cham and serve with lime wedges.

COWGIRL BACON

Although it would give me some serious street cred in regions of southwest Louisiana, smoking pork belly isn’t the kind of thing I do on a weekly basis (after all, it has to cure for ten days). So, when I do prepare it, I invest in the best-quality pork available—from humanely raised hogs or a heritage breed like Duroc or Berkshire (also known as Kurobuta). Restaurants smoke whole pork bellies weighing from 10 to 12 pounds (4.5 to 5.4 kg). Luckily, Whole Foods sells pork bellies by the pound, so I smoke 1-pound (450 g) pieces that yield enough for a few favorite dishes, and then freeze the rest for later.

For best results, slice the bacon when it’s cold (room-temperature bacon is soft and flabby). I like the chewy texture and meaty bite of thick, slightly undercooked slices that showcase the flavor of the pork; however, thinner slices will crisp up better in a skillet.

Note: Curing salt typically contains sugar, nitrates, and curing agents that help preserve meat and prevent the flesh from turning drab and gray. Regular salt cannot be used as a substitute.

MAKES 2 POUNDS (900 G)

2 pounds (900 g) fresh pork belly, sliced in half

4 cups (800 g) kosher salt

¾ teaspoon curing salt (see Note)

2¼ cups (450 g)granulated sugar

1¾ cups (350 g) lightly packed light brown sugar

2 tablespoons pink peppercorns, crushed

1 tablespoon juniper berries, lightly crushed

1 tablespoon fennel seeds, lightly crushed

Pat the pork belly with paper towels to remove any excess moisture.

Combine the kosher salt, curing salt, the sugars, peppercorns, juniper berries, and fennel seeds in a mixing bowl. Place the pork in a baking dish or a large plastic container. Cover the top of the pork with a layer of the salt mixture, then flip it over and top with the remaining salt, using your hands to gently pack and nestle the pork into the seasoning.

Cover the container with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 10 days. This process will “cure” the belly, and you’ll have salt pork or unsmoked bacon.

Remove the pork from the salt and rinse each piece under cold water, then pat dry with paper towels. Place the pork on a wire rack inserted into a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate overnight, uncovered. (Air-drying the bacon allows a dry, slightly tacky skin to form for the smoke to adhere to—a surface that’s essential to create the deeply bronzed color that makes bacon so crave-worthy.)

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, use tongs to remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of warm water on the side with no coals, and add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the pork over indirect heat, close the grill, vent for smoking, and smoke the pork for about 2 hours, maintaining a steady temperature between 150°F (68°C) and 160°F (70°C). Add additional hot coals or wood chunks as needed to maintain the temperature until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the bacon reads 150°F (68°C). Transfer the bacon to a wire rack and let it cool to room temperature. Tightly wrap the bacon in plastic and refrigerate it overnight to let the flavor and texture develop. The bacon is now ready to slice and cook. Store it, tightly wrapped, in the refrigerator for up to 5 days or in the freezer for up to 4 months.

PORK TENDERLOIN

with Olive-Anchovy Vinaigrette

The easiest way to infuse pork tenderloin with some serious personality is to give it a spin over a smoky fire and pair it with a zippy olive dressing and a pile of fresh, peppery greens. This dish is back porch dinner at its easiest and most satisfying. Consider serving the pork alongside roasted potatoes, or slabs of grilled bread.

SERVES 4 TO 6

Two 8-ounce (225 g) pork tenderloins

Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Olive-Anchovy Vinaigrette

1 clove garlic, minced

3 anchovy fillets, drained and finely chopped

Pinch of red pepper flakes or crumbled chile pequin

1 generous tablespoon Creole mustard, or other spicy whole-grain mustard

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

2 teaspoons sherry vinegar

¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

½ cup (65 g) chopped pitted kalamata olives

½ cup (65 g) chopped pitted green olives (such as Castelvetrano, Lucques, or Picholine)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram or oregano

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

About 6 ounces (170 g) arugula

½ cup (50 g) shaved Parmesan or Pecorino Romano

Place the tenderloins in a baking dish, drizzle them with enough olive oil to lightly coat, and generously season with salt and pepper. Use your hands to rub the oil and seasonings all over the meat.

Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.

While the grill heats, make the vinaigrette. In a small bowl, whisk together the garlic, anchovies, red pepper flakes, mustard, lemon zest and juice, and vinegar and then whisk in the olive oil oil. Whisk in the olives, thyme, and marjoram and season to taste with salt and pepper.

When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the pork over direct heat, close the grill, vent for smoking, and smoke for 10 to 12 minutes, using your tongs to roll the meat every couple of minutes (be sure to close the grill each time), until the tenderloin is cooked to medium (150°F/70°C) and deeply browned on all sides. Transfer the meat to a cutting board to rest for 5 to 7 minutes.

To serve, place the arugula on a large platter. Thinly slice the pork (warm or room temperature) and place it over the greens, drizzling any of its juices over the meat. Top with the vinaigrette and Parmesan. Refrigerate any leftovers (the sliced pork makes a great sandwich) for up to 5 days.