CHAPTER FOUR
NUTS & SEEDS
Caked in salty seasonings, canned “smoked almonds” were ubiquitous in my childhood, and a mandatory gift for my father on every Dad-centric holiday. I still have a soft spot for them, even though their “smoked” flavor comes mostly from artificial ingredients, but they’re not nearly as delicious as nuts that you smoke yourself.
If there’s an ingredient that disappears most quickly from my larder, it’s smoked nuts and seeds, in part because I rely on them for fast protein. Smoked nuts like cashews and pecans emerge at happy hour, garnish green salads for working lunches, and get tucked in my computer bag for road trips and school events.
With their natural fat content, nuts and seeds absorb the appealing qualities of wood smoke almost as well as meat. In fact, the process infuses them with a rich, bacony note that gives vegetable dishes more muscle. (Those oils also cause them to go rancid over time, so store them in the refrigerator to make them last longer.)
You can smoke either raw or sprouted nuts (my choice for nut butters) or varieties that have been roasted and salted (I use them for spiced nut mixes). To ensure even smoking, be sure to stir nuts and seeds a time or two during the process, and watch them closely toward the end of the smoking time so they don’t become too dark and take on an acrid flavor.
SMOKED NUTS & SEEDS
USE THIS METHOD TO SMOKE:
NUTS
Almonds
Cashews
Hazelnuts
Macadamia
Marcona almonds
Peanuts
Pecans
Walnuts
SEEDS
Chia
Flax
Hemp
Millet
Pepitas
Sesame
Sunflower
Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high. When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, use tongs to remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of warm water on the side with no coals, and add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Return the cooking grate to its position, and then carefully wipe the grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.
Place the nuts or seeds in a disposable aluminum pan or atop two sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil (crimp the edges of foil upward to create a rim and prevent the nuts or seeds from sliding off). When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the nuts or seeds over indirect heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 20 to 30 minutes, until they’re slightly darkened and fragrant. To ensure even results, stir the ingredients and rotate the individual containers (if you’re smoking more than one item) around the heat after 15 minutes, and keep an eye on their color after 20 minutes so they don’t become too dark.
CURRY-CHILE PEANUTS
I love to serve these addictive, sweet-and-spicy peanuts with cocktails, and they always disappear quickly. As you’ll see, the smoking process is done à la minute (rather than starting with already smoked nuts) so all of the aromatics are flavored by the wafting smoke. It’s a fun and fragrant snack to prepare when guests are over because the aroma perks everyone’s appetite (the only challenge is waiting for the nuts to cool before digging in). If you don’t want to scrub a cast-iron grill afterward, you can begin with smoked peanuts (see this page) and prepare them the same way on your stove. I leave the chiles whole, because the heat is less intense (and they look pretty in the bowl). To kick up the heat, coarsely chop the chiles after you toast them so you can eat them along with the nuts.
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS (450 G)
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 dried arbol chiles, stemmed and seeded
2 tablespoons honey
1 teaspoon Spicy Curry Salt (this page)
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pound (450 g) roasted salted peanuts
Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium fire, or heat a gas grill to medium-high.
When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.
Place the oil and chiles in a large skillet (preferably cast iron) over direct heat and cook, stirring constantly, until the chiles begin to sizzle and smell toasty and aromatic. Remove the skillet from the heat and add the honey, Spicy Curry Salt, pepper, and peanuts and stir until the nuts are evenly coated.
Return the skillet to the grill over indirect heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke the mixture for 10 to 20 minutes, stirring every few minutes, until the nuts are toasted and richly fragrant. Remove the skillet from the grill, transfer the nuts to a bowl, and continue to stir the nuts every few minutes so they don’t clump as they cool. Allow them to cool completely, and then serve immediately or store in a sealed container at room temperature for up to 1 week.
BIRDSEED MUFFINS
Most muffins are supersweet, cake-like confections that are heavy on oil and sugar and lacking in wholesome ingredients. This is not that kind of muffin. If healthful, truly flavorful muffins have a redemption, it’s this moist, not-too-sweet incarnation, adapted from Nancy Silverton’s Pastries from the La Brea Bakery. Packed with pebbly, crunchy seeds and other tasty, nourishing ingredients, they’re delicious warm from the oven with a pat of Irish butter, served with soups or salads, and packed in lunch boxes.
In this version, I smoke the seeded, whole-grain base as well as the seed topping. The subtle smoke flavor tilts these further into the savory realm, enhancing the earthiness of the whole grains and the distinct personality of each seed. I don’t smoke poppy seeds because I don’t want to obscure their delicate flavor (and they toast during the baking process).
This recipe typically sends me to the bulk section of Whole Foods or my local food co-op. To make the process more time efficient, I usually smoke a couple of individual containers of the premeasured ingredients (for both the muffins and the topping) all at once, and then I store them in the freezer so they’re ready to go whenever I’m ready to bake.
MAKES 12 MUFFINS
Topping
2 tablespoons smoked sesame seeds (see this page)
2 tablespoons smoked flaxseeds (see this page)
2 tablespoons smoked millet (see this page)
2 tablespoons poppy seeds
Muffins
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (55 g) smoked hulled raw sunflower seeds (see this page)
1½ cups (190 g) all-purpose flour
½ cup (60 g) whole-wheat flour
2 tablespoons smoked wheat bran or wheat germ (see this page)
1¼ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup (45 g) smoked thick-cut rolled oats (see this page)
¼ cup (45 g) smoked millet (see this page)
¼ cup (45 g) smoked sesame seeds (see this page)
1 tablespoon smoked flaxseeds (see this page)
1 tablespoon poppy seeds
½ cup (110 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes
½ cup (100 g) packed light brown sugar
2 eggs
¼ cup (60 ml) honey
1¼ cups (300 ml) buttermilk
To make the topping, in a small bowl, toss together the seeds until combined. Set aside.
To make the muffins, preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Spray a 12-cup muffin pan with nonstick spray, or line it with paper muffin liners.
Place the smoked sunflower seeds, the flours, smoked wheat bran, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in the bowl of a food processor and process until the sunflower seeds have the same consistency as the flours. Add the smoked oats, millet, sesame seeds, flaxseeds, and poppy seeds and pulse a few times, just to combine.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter on low speed until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the brown sugar and beat on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the honey and beat on medium-low speed until well blended. Slowly pour in the buttermilk and mix until incorporated. Add the flour mixture in three additions, mixing on low just until the dry ingredients disappear into the batter (do not overmix).
Sprinkle ½ teaspoon of the topping in the bottom of each muffin cup. Scoop the batter into the muffin cups, filling them to the rim. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the topping over each muffin.
Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the muffins are golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let the muffins cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool slightly. Serve warm, or wrap in foil and store at room temperature for 3 days.
MESQUITE-SMOKED PECAN ROLLS
Towering pecan trees provide a green canopy throughout our neighborhood in Austin and the Texas Hill Country. Each fall, the ripe nuts fall from the trees and our dog walks are interrupted by Dilley, our chocolate Lab, sniffing them out for snacks. My husband, David, developed these rolls as a way to incorporate local Texas ingredients into his bread. Usually reserved for smoking beef, mesquite’s stronger, distinctive aroma pairs beautifully with rich nuts. Investing the time to begin the dough with a starter (also called a sponge) the night or morning before baking will create rolls with a deeper flavor—the perfect vehicle for the smoky nuts. These rolls are perfect on a cheese platter, for picnic-sized Gruyère and butter sandwiches, and with creamy vegetable soups or braised meats.
MAKES 12 ROLLS
Starter
Pinch of active dry yeast
1 cup (125 g) all-purpose flour
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon (255 ml) water
Dough
2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
1½ teaspoons fine sea salt
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon butter, at room temperature
⅔ cup (90 g) mesquite-smoked pecans (see this page)
To make the starter, in a bowl, blend the yeast into the flour with your fingers. Make a well in the center of the mixture and add the water. Blend the mixture together with your fingers until the water is fully incorporated and you can feel that there are no lumps (it should have the consistency of a thick pancake batter). Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the mixture ferment at room temperature for at least 12 hours and up to 18 hours.
To make the dough, use a rubber spatula to transfer all of the starter to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, yeast, and salt and add it to the starter. Add the butter and mix on low speed for 7 to 8 minutes, until the dough is smooth and begins to pull away from the sides of the bowl. Remove the dough hook and allow the dough to rest for 15 minutes.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and press it out gently into a ½-inch-thick (1.3 cm) rectangle. Grab the top edge and stretch it toward you over the top of the dough about two-thirds of the way and press it gently into the dough. Stretch the bottom edge up and away from you, over the top of the first fold about two-thirds of the way and press it gently into the dough. Rotate the dough 90 degrees and repeat the two folds, stretching first the top edge toward you and then the bottom edge away from you.
Turn the dough over and form it into a ball by placing your hands on the side opposite you, palms facing you and gently pulling the dough toward you, letting it grip the table and stretch the surface. At the same time as you are pulling the dough toward you, move both hands to the left, causing the dough to turn and start to tighten into a ball. Release and move your hands to the back of the dough again and repeat the pulling toward yourself and shifting your hands to the left to further tighten and round the dough. Repeat until you have a smooth ball of dough. If the surface starts to tear, pull more gently or stop and return the dough to the bowl of the standing mixer. Allow the dough to rest for 15 minutes more.
Reinsert the dough hook, add the smoked pecans, and mix at the lowest speed just until the nuts are evenly distributed. Remove the hook, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and allow the dough to rise in a warm, draft-free area until it has doubled in size, 1 to 1½ hours.
Turn the dough out on a lightly floured surface and repeat the stretching and folding process. Stretch the dough into a smooth ball following the method given, then return the ball to the bowl with the smooth side up and cover with plastic. Allow the dough to rest for 30 minutes more.
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and divide it into 12 equal pieces. (Cover the dough with a tea towel while you shape each piece.) Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Take a piece of dough and press it into a rustic circle about 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter. Fold each of the corners into the center to start a round shape. Turn the piece over and make a cage with your hand over the dough piece, the palm of your hand resting lightly on the top and your fingers extending down to the table. Rotate your hand counterclockwise, making the dough piece turn and the surface tighten. The dough should grip the table slightly but not stick, so as to stretch the gluten and make a tight ball. If it slides around without gripping, brush some flour away; if it sticks too much, add a small amount of flour. Place the tightened roll on the prepared baking sheet and repeat with all of the dough pieces, evenly spacing them on the baking sheet. Cover the rolls with a clean towel and let rise until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 450ºF (230ºC) and position an oven rack in the middle and another on the rack directly below. Place a heavy skillet or metal pan on the bottom rack to preheat along with the oven.
When the rolls have risen, snip the top of each roll with a pair of scissors and place the baking sheet on the center rack of the oven. Quickly add ½ cup (120 ml)water to the preheated pan to create some steam and then close the oven door. Bake the rolls for 15 to 18 minutes, until they’re evenly browned on top, then transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely. Serve immediately, or store in a paper bag (or wrapped in aluminum foil) up to 3 days.
SMOKED ALMOND LOAF
with Raspberry & Coconut
Infused with the toasty goodness and subtle crunch of smoked almonds and coconut, this moist, fragrant quick bread is delicious on its own or toasted in thick slabs and slathered with butter. A horizon line of raspberry jam filling makes each slice beautiful and provides a pop of sweet, fruity flavor. For added perfume, add finely grated lemon or lime zest to the batter.
MAKES 1 LOAF
1¼ cups (300 ml) whole milk
2 eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2½ cups (315 g) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon ground cardamom
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup (200 g) sugar
¾ cup (75 g) smoked sliced almonds (see this page)
¾ cup (95 g) smoked dried sweetened coconut flakes (see this page)
6 tablespoons (85 g) unsalted butter, melted, plus butter for serving
¼ cup (160 g) raspberry jam
Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
In a small bowl, whisk together the milk, eggs, and vanilla. In a separate bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, cardamom, and salt. Add the sugar, ½ cup (50 g) of the smoked almonds, and the smoked coconut and stir to combine. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour in the milk mixture. Use a rubber spatula to fold the batter until only a few dry streaks remain. Add the butter and stir just until the batter has a smooth, even texture (do not overmix).
Grease a 9 by 5-inch (23 by 13 cm) loaf pan with vegetable oil or nonstick cooking spray. Pour half of the batter into the pan and use a rubber spatula to gently smooth the top. Use a spoon to spread the raspberry jam down the center of the batter, leaving a 1½- to 2-inch (4 to 5 cm) border around the perimeter. Top with the remaining batter, gently smooth the top, and then sprinkle with the remaining ¼ cup (25 g) smoked almonds.
Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 1 to 1¼ hours. Let the bread cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely. Serve the bread in thick slices (toasted, if desired) with butter or a drizzle of salted honey.
SPICY SMOKED NUTS
with Rosemary
Texans refer to rosemary as “bulletproof” because it flourishes almost anywhere, even in intense heat and rocky soil, which means I always have plenty on hand (after walking to the backyard with garden shears) to enhance cocktails, roast chickens, or these addictive nuts (a happy hour favorite on our back porch). Warm spices and a touch of sweetness round out the smoky notes of the pecans and almonds (feel free to swap in cashews, Marcona almonds, or hazelnuts, as desired).
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS (440 G)
2 cups (220 g) smoked pecan halves (see this page)
2 cups (220 g) smoked whole almonds (see this page)
1 generous tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
1 generous teaspoon dark brown sugar
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon cayenne
Freshly ground black pepper
1 egg white
Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C) and line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
Place the smoked nuts in a mixing bowl and add the rosemary, salt, brown sugar, cinnamon, cumin, cayenne, a few grinds of black pepper, and the egg white. Toss the mixture until the nuts are thoroughly coated. Pour the nuts on the prepared baking sheet and spread them into a single layer.
Roast the nuts for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring with a metal spatula after about 6 minutes, until they’re lightly browned and fragrant (watch them toward the end of cooking to ensure they don’t get too dark). Transfer the baking sheet to a wire rack and allow the nuts to cool completely. Serve immediately, or store the nuts in a sealed container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.
LINGUINE & SMOKED WALNUT PESTO
with Yellow Tomatoes
With its sultry flavors and gorgeous burst of sweet, charred tomatoes, this lusty pasta might inspire a marriage proposal in certain regions of Italy. Swapping in smoked walnuts deepens the earthiness of the classic Genovese pesto. One extra step: Sautéing shallot, red pepper flakes, and golden raisins provides a subtle undercurrent of sweetness and heat that perfectly balances the other robust flavors.
SERVES 6 TO 8
¾ cup (175 ml) olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 large shallot, chopped (about ¼ cup/40 g)
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes or crumbled chile pequin
Kosher salt
¼ cup (30 g) golden raisins
1 clove garlic, lightly crushed and peeled
½ cup (60 g) smoked walnuts (see this page)
3 ounces (85 g) spinach leaves
1 bunch basil (leaves and tender stems)
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice, plus more as needed
⅓ cup (35 g) freshly grated Parmesan, plus more for serving
1 pint (300 g) yellow pear tomatoes (or another cherry or grape tomato)
Freshly ground black pepper
1 pound (450 g) whole-wheat linguine
Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high. When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again and place a grill basket over direct heat.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over high heat on the stovetop.
In a small skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallot, red pepper flakes, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently until the shallot is softened and golden, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the raisins, stirring to coat them in warm oil, then remove the pan from the heat.
Place the garlic and ½ teaspoon salt in a food processor and pulse into a coarse paste. Add the warm shallot-raisin mixture and pulse until combined. Add the smoked walnuts, spinach, basil, and lemon juice and process until combined. With the processor running, slowly drizzle in the remaining ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (150 ml) olive oil, then add the Parmesan and pulse until just combined (do not overmix the cheese). Transfer the pesto to a large mixing bowl.
Place the tomatoes in a bowl, drizzle with enough olive oil to lightly coat, season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine. Pour the tomatoes into the preheated grill basket and cook, stirring as needed, until the tomatoes are juicy and blistered, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the basket from the heat.
Add the linguine to the boiling water and cook according to the package instructions to al dente. Use tongs to transfer the pasta directly from the pot to the bowl of pesto (the cooking water that clings to the pasta will help loosen the pesto). Toss the pasta until evenly coated, then add the tomatoes and toss again. Taste and add additional salt, pepper, and lemon juice as needed. Serve the pasta in bowls, garnished with Parmesan.
PIMENTO CHEESE
with Smoked Pecans
My husband and I got married in Pawleys Island, South Carolina, and it’s not an exaggeration to say that the location was partly chosen so our Low Country favorites—like shrimp and grits and pimento cheese—would be on the menu. Use a food processor or a hand grater to grate the cheese for this recipe (preshredded cheese won’t hold together as well). You can serve the pimento cheese immediately (I love it on crunchy crackers sturdy enough to hold up to a slather, but it’s also great on toasted bread or bagels) or refrigerate it for a couple of hours to allow the smoky pecans to permeate the luscious mixture.
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS (440 G)
1½ pounds (680 g) extra-sharp Cheddar cheese, grated
4 ounces (115 g) cream cheese, at room temperature
¾ cup (165 g) mayonnaise (preferably Duke’s)
2 green onions, white and light green parts, minced
½ teaspoon cayenne
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for garnish
One 7-ounce (200 g) jar whole peeled pimientos or piquillo peppers, drained and chopped
⅓ cup (45 g) smoked pecans (see this page), lightly chopped
Crackers (such as sesame, Triscuits, or Croccantini), for serving
In a large mixing bowl, combine the Cheddar, cream cheese, mayonnaise, green onions, cayenne, and black pepper. Add the pimientos and use a rubber spatula to mix the ingredients until the cheese is spreadable. Fold in the pecans until evenly combined.
Transfer the pimento cheese to a serving bowl or ramekin, top it with a final grind of black pepper and serve cold or at room temperature with the crackers. Store leftovers in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
SOBA NOODLE SALAD
with Almond Butter Dressing
This is my kind of weeknight meal: noodles tossed in a tasty, easy to prepare sauce and joined with a bunch of fresh vegetables, herbs, and spicy Asian condiments. If you use the spicier Harissa Cashew Butter here, adjust the Sriracha accordingly to reach your desired level of heat. Whisked into a gingery vinaigrette, smoked nut butter gives this dressing some muscle and makes the final mix more satisfying. These noodles are at their best immediately, at room temperature, though I’m always happy to eat the cold leftovers the following day. Green beans (blanched or grilled) and/or grilled corn kernels would be delicious additions to this salad.
SERVES 4
Dressing
1 clove garlic, lightly crushed and peeled
½-inch (1.3 cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and lightly chopped
¼ cup (50 g) Smoked Marcona Almond Butter (this page) or Spicy Harissa Cashew Butter (this page)
2 tablespoons tamari
2 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 to 2 teaspoons Sriracha, as desired for heat
12 ounces (340 g) soba noodles
2 carrots
2 Persian cucumbers
1 red bell pepper, seeded and julienned
½ cup (20 g) Thai basil leaves, torn
½ cup (20 g) fresh cilantro (leaves and tender stems), lightly chopped
Smoked almonds, cashews, or peanuts (see this page), lightly chopped, for garnish
Toasted black and white sesame seeds, for garnish
Thinly sliced green onions, white and light green parts, for garnish
Lime wedges, for serving
To make the dressing, place the garlic and ginger in the bowl of a food processor and pulse into a coarse puree. Add the almond butter, tamari, rice vinegar, honey, sesame oil, and Sriracha and process until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasonings as desired. Stored in an airtight container, the dressing will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days (the dressing will thicken up after it’s refrigerated, so for the best texture, remove it from the refrigerator 30 minutes before serving).
Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the noodles and cook according to the package instructions until they’re tender but still firm. Drain the noodles in a colander and rinse with cold water.
Peel the carrots and then use the vegetable peeler to shave the carrots into ribbons. Use a fork to score the unpeeled cucumbers lengthwise (this releases their fragrance and helps them absorb the dressing) and julienne or thinly slice them into rounds, as desired. Add the noodles, carrots, bell pepper, and cucumbers to the dressing and toss to combine. Add the basil and cilantro and toss again. Divide the salad among bowls or transfer to a platter. Garnish with the chopped nuts, sesame seeds, and green onions and serve with lime wedges on the side. Store leftovers in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days (loosen the noodles with an additional drizzle of oil or rice vinegar before serving, if desired).
VARIATION
For a heartier dish to serve in cooler seasons, swap in 1½ pounds (680 g) of roasted vegetables (such as broccolini, wild mushrooms, kale, cauliflower, and carrots) for the fresh vegetables. Just toss the vegetables with enough olive oil to lightly coat, season with salt and pepper, and roast on a baking sheet for about 30 minutes, until crisp and golden brown.
THREE LIFE-CHANGING NUT BUTTERS
Making nut butter takes patience—it can take 10 to 12 minutes to transform nuts from a coarse meal into a smooth silky butter. Stop to scrape down the sides of your machine as needed, and taste the final results and adjust the seasonings as desired.
Smoked Marcona Almond Butter
Whisk this richly flavored butter into vinaigrettes (for kale or spinach salad) or serve it with pear, apple, Asian pear, celery, and fennel.
MAKES ABOUT 1 ¼ CUPS (310 G)
3 tablespoons canola oil
2 tablespoons fresh chopped rosemary
2 cups (280 g) smoked Marcona almonds (roasted and salted; see this page)
Fine sea salt
In a small skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the rosemary and cook, stirring occasionally, until the leaves are fragrant and sizzling, about 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat.
Place the almonds in the bowl of a food processor or high-speed blender and process until the nuts begin to form oily clumps, about 6 minutes. Drizzle in the rosemary oil, season with salt to taste, and process until the butter is smooth and creamy, 5 to 7 minutes more. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.
Spicy Harissa Cashew Butter
This slather is terrific on flatbread, with vegetable crudités, or on crackers. You can also thin it with olive oil and brush it onto grilled chicken, lamb, or pork kebabs just before they come off the grill.
MAKES 2 CUPS (310 G)
2 cups (260 g) smoked roasted and salted cashews (see this page)
2 teaspoons harissa spice blend, or 1 tablespoon harissa paste
Pinch of cayenne (optional)
Fine sea salt
Place the cashews in the bowl of a food processor or high-speed blender and process until the nuts begin to form oily clumps, about 6 minutes. Add the harissa and cayenne, season with salt to taste, and process until the butter is smooth and creamy, 5 to 7 minutes more. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.
With a delightful pop of tiny seeds (bonus: they also add essential amino acids, protein, and fiber), this smoky butter is delicious on toast, quick breads, waffles, and pancakes. I don’t typically have chia and hempseeds on hand, so I hit the bulk aisle of my local natural foods market and buy just enough for this recipe (feel free to swap in an equal amount of flaxseeds or pumpkin seeds).
MAKES ABOUT 1 ⅔ CUPS (415 G)
1 pound (450 g) smoked hulled raw sunflower seeds (see this page)
1 tablespoon chia seeds
1 tablespoon shelled hempseeds
½ teaspoon pink Himalayan sea salt, or to taste
Place the sunflower seeds in the bowl of a food processor or high-speed blender and process until a butter forms, scraping down the sides as needed, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the chia seeds, hempseeds, and salt and pulse until combined. Taste and adjust the flavor as needed, adding more salt, if desired. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks or in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
VARIATIONS
Use the following riffs on the classic PB&J and other creations to step up your next sandwich.
Smoked Marcona Almond Butter + apricot jam + toasted rosemary bread
Spicy Harissa Cashew Butter + ciabatta + sliced lamb + pickled red onions
Seedy Sunflower Butter + fig preserves + walnut bread
Seedy Sunflower Butter + whole-grain English muffin + sliced pear
Seedy Sunflower Butter + multigrain bread + ripe peaches or nectarines + honey
