CHAPTER FIVE
DRIED PEAS, BEANS & LEGUMES
The first time I simmered a pot of smoked chickpeas, I was amazed at how well the smoky fragrance of the dried beans carried itself through the cooking process. As you’re about to discover, smoked beans, peas, and other legumes provide a foundation for deeply flavored soups and chili, brilliant antipasti (round out the plate with cheese, charcuterie, smoked olives, and toasted nuts), and fantastic salads. The smoky flavors also offer a satisfying complexity for vegetarian meals—no ham hock required.
I actually smoke both dried and cooked peas, beans, and legumes, depending on the final results I’m after. Smoking dried beans yields a delicate smoky flavor after they’re cooked. By contrast, smoking cooked (or even canned) beans and the like produces a more pronounced smoky flavor in a shorter time because the density and moister texture of the cooked beans helps them absorb the aromas in the cooking chamber. In general, I prefer the first method for beans destined for soup or the base of something else (like bean dip), and the second method when I plan to serve them simply dressed, in a salad or as a side dish, so the earthy flavors are front and center.
The fragrance of cooked smoked beans intensifies overnight, especially when they are marinated in oil or juices—meaning the subtle hint of smoke you taste when you first prepare a French lentil salad blooms and becomes more pronounced the following day (to my delight).
As with grains and nuts, the color of the dried (and precooked) peas and beans darkens slightly with smoking, so stir them a few times during the process to ensure even results.
SMOKED PEAS, BEANS & LEGUMES
USE THIS METHOD TO SMOKE:
Black beans
Black-eyed peas
Chickpeas
Lentils (all varieties)
Pinto beans
White beans (cannellini, great northern, or navy)
Yellow or green split peas
Prepare a charcoal grill for two-zone cooking and build a medium-high fire, or heat a gas grill to high.
When the coals are glowing red and covered with a fine gray ash, use tongs to remove the cooking grate and place a drip pan with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of warm water on the side with no coals, and add your smoke source (chips, chunks, or log). Return the cooking grate to its position, allow it to preheat, and then carefully wipe the preheated grill grates with a lightly oiled paper towel. Using a grill brush, scrape the grill grates clean, then carefully wipe with a lightly oiled towel again.
To smoke dried peas, beans, or legumes, place them in a disposable aluminum pan or atop two sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil (crimp the edges of foil upward to create a rim and prevent them from sliding off). When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the pan over indirect heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 25 to 40 minutes, until the peas, beans, or legumes are deeply fragrant and have darkened slightly. For even results, stir the ingredients and rotate the individual containers (if you’re smoking more than one item) around the heat after 15 to 20 minutes, and keep an eye on their color after 30 minutes to ensure they don’t become too dark.
To smoke cooked peas, beans, or legumes, toss them with enough olive oil to generously coat and place in a disposable aluminum pan. When the fire begins to produce a steady stream of smoke, place the pan over indirect heat, close the grill, vent the grill for smoking, and smoke for 15 to 25 minutes, until the peas, beans, or legumes are deeply fragrant and have darkened slightly. For even results, stir the ingredients and rotate the individual containers (if you’re smoking more than one item) around the heat every 5 minutes, and keep an eye on their color toward the end of the process to ensure they don’t become too dark.
LUCK & MONEY
At my home in Austin, New Year’s Day means a polar bear plunge in Barton Springs and brunch with friends. To bolster our courage, we serve spicy Bloody Marys or Buck Snorts (this page) and this warming dish, known as Luck & Money. Eating peas and greens on New Year’s Day is a Southern tradition that promises to bring good luck (from the peas) and fortune (courtesy of the greens) for the coming year. But don’t save this nourishing combination for one day a year; it’s delicious anytime, especially with cornbread to soak up the flavorful cooking liquid (or potlikker). My local supermarket has a freezer case of frozen fresh black-eyed peas that I prefer for this dish (because they have a fresher flavor and texture than dried ones). I thaw them and smoke the peas just as I would smoke the dried variety. But you can also use any variety of dried beans, including butter beans, creamers, or flageolets. To add another layer of smoke, feel free to add bacon or lightly char the greens on the grill before adding them to the pot (this works particularly well with leafy kale).
SERVES 6 TO 8
2 cups (330 g) smoked black-eyed or field peas (dried or thawed frozen beans) or your favorite variety of dried peas (see this page)
3 fresh bay leaves, torn
¼ cup (60 ml) canola oil
1 yellow onion, minced
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 pounds (900 g) greens (such as collards, mustard greens, or kale), stemmed and chopped
1 teaspoon Korean red pepper flakes (gochugaru), crumbled chile pequin, or red pepper flakes
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup (120 ml) dry white wine
2 to 3 tablespoons Creole mustard or other spicy whole-grain mustard, as desired for heat
¼ cup (60 ml) apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons hot sauce (such as Cholula)
Rinse the peas, discarding any pebbles, place them in a large pot, and add enough cold water to cover by 3 inches (7.5 cm). Add the bay leaves and bring the peas to a boil over medium-high heat, then turn the heat to low and simmer until the peas are just tender (but not mushy), about 25 minutes, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Drain the peas in a colander, discard the bay leaves, and let the peas cool.
In another large pot, warm the canola oil over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and fragrant, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the greens and use two wooden spoons to stir and toss until the greens are combined with the onion, garlic, and oil. Add the red pepper flakes, season lightly with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 2 to 3 minutes more. Add the wine and mustard, turn the heat to low, and simmer, stirring every now and then, until the greens are tender, 30 to 40 minutes.
Stir in the cooked peas, the vinegar, and the hot sauce. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium-high heat, and then the lower the heat and simmer gently for 10 minutes to allow the flavors to meld. Serve in shallow bowls and pass the hot sauce. Refrigerate leftovers in a sealed container for up to 5 days.
SMOKED BEAN DIP
with Pickled Jalapeños
Inspired by the canned variety sold by Frito-Lay (a guilty pleasure, I confess), this homemade version of an iconic Tex-Mex bean dip is way more delicious (without the dubious ingredients). I’d always soaked dried beans before cooking them until a couple friends (and accomplished bean cookers) convinced me to skip this step. Now I simply rinse beans and cook them on the stovetop at a very low simmer, the result is a deeper “bean” flavor and perfectly tender, creamy texture. Adding meat to the bean cooking liquid isn’t essential here, but it creates a richer stock and the added fat creates a luscious texture. I like to simmer pintos with a fresh turkey neck, but you could also use chicken necks, bacon, a ham hock, or a smoked wing or two. Stock up on corn chips and cold beer regardless—even a vegetarian version of this dip will please a crowd with its smoky bean-and-briny-jalapeño essence. You won’t need all the beans for this dip. Serve the brothy, smoky leftovers in flour tortillas or alongside crispy fried eggs.
MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS; SERVES 6 TO 8
1 pound (450 g) smoked dried pinto beans (see this page)
1 white onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 or 3 fresh bay leaves
1 turkey neck, 3 or 4 chicken necks, 3 slices thick-cut bacon, a ham hock, or 2 smoked chicken wings (optional)
1 large pickled jalapeño chile, stemmed and sliced, plus more for garnish
1 teaspoon jalapeño brine, plus more as desired
1 teaspoon hot sauce (such as Crystal), plus more as desired
1 teaspoon pure ground chile powder (such as New Mexico or ancho)
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon onion powder
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
¼ teaspoon cayenne
Corn chips, for serving
Place the dried beans in a large pot and rinse them a couple times with cold water. Drain the beans in in a colander and then return them to the pot with the onion, garlic, bay leaves (to taste), and turkey neck in a large pot and add enough cold water to cover by 5 to 6 inches (13 to 15 cm). Bring the beans to a boil over medium-high heat, then turn the heat to low and simmer until the beans are creamy and tender, about 1 hour, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. If time allows, let the beans cool in their broth (this slow cooling process creates an especially creamy texture). Drain the beans in a colander, reserving ¼ cup (60 ml) of the cooking liquid (discard any meat and bay leaves).
Ladle 3 cups (500 g) of the cooked beans and the ¼ cup (60 ml) reserved cooking liquid into a food processor. Add the jalapeño slices and brine, the hot sauce, chile powder, cumin, onion powder, garlic powder, and cayenne and blend until smooth, 3 to 4 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding more jalapeño brine or hot sauce as desired. Serve the dip either warm or chilled—it’s good either way—with the chips and beer.
SMOKED FRENCH LENTIL SALAD
I’ve been making various versions of this perfectly simple salad since Patricia Wells’s Bistro Cooking was published in 1989. Pay close attention to seasoning (add more salt and vinegar as needed) and use your very best olive oil to elevate this handful of ingredients into a truly crave-worthy meal. I typically serve this salad in the style of a Parisian crudités plate, with roasted beets, a grated carrot salad, and toasted bread slathered with goat cheese, an additional drizzle of oil, and a scattering of fresh herbs.
SERVES 6 TO 8
1 pound (450 g) smoked French green or black beluga lentils (see this page)
1 yellow onion, halved and stuck with 2 cloves (1 per half)
2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed and peeled
2 or 3 fresh bay leaves, torn
¼ cup (60 ml) red wine vinegar
¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Rinse the lentils and discard any pebbles. Place the lentils, onion, garlic, and bay leaves (to taste) in a saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by 2 inches (5 cm). Cover the pan and bring the lentils to a boil over medium heat, then turn the heat to low and simmer until the lentils are tender, 25 to 35 minutes, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Remove the pan from the heat.
Discard the onion, garlic, and bay leaves and drain any excess liquid. Whisk the vinegar, oil, and a generous pinch of salt together in a small bowl. Pour the dressing over the warm lentils and toss to evenly coat.
Season with pepper and additional salt, as needed, and serve warm or at room temperature.
SMOKED YELLOW PEA SOUP
with Harissa Oil & Olives
I love the hearty, soothing texture of yellow split peas. For years, I foolishly relegated them to Swedish pea soup (cooked with ham and traditionally served on Thursdays), until I finally realized that their neutral flavor works well with just about anything you’re craving. They’re delicious teamed up with ginger, turmeric, coriander, curry, and coconut milk, for instance, but my current favorite is this Mediterranean-inspired combination punched up with olives and cilantro. For a richer, smokier soup, replace the water with Smoked Chicken Stock (this page).
SERVES 6 TO 8
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish
1½ yellow onions, chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and chopped
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary
Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes or crumbled chile pequin
Kosher salt
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more as desired
2 fresh bay leaves
1 pound (450 g) smoked yellow split peas (see this page)
2 sprigs thyme
6 cups (1.4 L) water, plus more as needed
Juice of ½ lemon, plus more as desired
Harissa Oil (recipe follows), for garnish
½ cup (70 g) pitted oil-cured black olives, chopped, for garnish
½ cup (25 g) chopped fresh cilantro (leaves and tender stems), for garnish
In a 4-quart (3.8 L) heavy pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the onions, carrot, celery, garlic, rosemary, red pepper flakes, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened, about 5 minutes. Add the cumin, coriander, pepper, and bay leaves and stir to combine. Add the split peas, thyme sprigs, and water and bring the mixture to a boil. Turn the heat to low and simmer until the peas are tender and the soup has thickened, 30 to 35 minutes. Discard the bay leaves.
Use an immersion blender to puree a portion of the soup, leaving some texture (or use a regular blender to puree half of the soup), and stir in the lemon juice. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding more salt and pepper as desired. (For a thinner consistency, add more water as desired.) Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with a drizzle of Harissa Oil, a spoonful of chopped olives, and a sprinkling of cilantro.
Harissa Oil
A drizzle of this spicy, brick-red oil is delicious over bean soups or eggs poached in tomato sauce. To make it, place 2 to 3 tablespoons (as desired for heat and intensity) harissa spice blend or harissa paste (sold in tubes or a jar) in a small bowl and whisk in about twice the amount of extra-virgin olive oil (to create the intensity and consistency that you desire). Use a spoon to drizzle the oil over the soup, bean or grain salads, or grilled chicken. Store leftovers in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
SMOKED BLACK BEANS FIVE WAYS
I’ve been following this basic method for cooking black beans since I moved to Chicago just after college (where I spent a lot of time sending out resumes and exploring neighborhood Mexican markets). The short list of ingredients allows the satisfying, earthy flavor of the smoked back beans to shine. And while I could eat these beans several nights a week, it’s also fun to mix up the supporting players with ingredients like chorizo, roasted peppers, juicy ripe tomatoes, or thick Mexican crema. Once they’re simmered, you can serve the brothy whole beans with their cooking liquid; drained and tossed with grains, vegetables, and herbs; or pureed into a creamy, smoky base for tostadas or breakfast tacos. Whether you keep them simple or embrace one of the following variations (I hope you’ll try them all), you’ll end up with a fragrant pot of beans that will provide sustenance throughout the week.
MAKES ABOUT 7 CUPS; SERVES 6 TO 8
1 pound (450 g) smoked dried black beans (see this page)
2 white or yellow onions, chopped
4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
2 fresh bay leaves, torn
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 to 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar (as desired for acidity), for seasoning
Rinse the beans and discard any pebbles. Place the beans, onions, garlic, and bay leaves in a large pot and add enough cold water to cover by 4 inches (10 cm). Bring the beans to a boil over medium-high heat, then turn the heat to low and simmer gently until the beans are very tender, about 2 hours, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. If time allows, let the beans cool in their broth. Otherwise discard the bay leaves, taste and adjust the seasonings, adding salt, pepper, and vinegar to taste, and serve as desired.
VARIATIONS
Green Chiles con Crema: Puree 2 cups (330 g) of the cooked beans (and their cooking liquid) with 2 roasted poblano chiles (stemmed, seeded, and peeled) and 2 charred jalapeño or serrano chiles (stemmed and seeded). Serve the beans topped with a drizzle of Mexican crema and grated Cotija cheese.
Pancho Fresca: Use an immersion blender or food processor to process 3 cups (500 g) of the cooked beans (and their cooking liquid) with 3 ripe chopped Roma tomatoes (and their juice), 1 bunch cilantro (leaves and tender stems), 1 white or yellow onion (chopped), and 1 serrano chile (stemmed, seeded, and chopped) until combined but not completely smooth. Return the mixture to the pot, add 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar, and stir to combine. Serve the warm beans as a taco filling or over steamed long-grain rice or quinoa.
Sunday Beans with Chorizo: Cook the beans as directed previously. While the beans are simmering, sauté 8 ounces (225 g) Mexican chorizo and ½ chopped red onion over medium-high heat until browned, 6 to 7 minutes. Add the chorizo and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano to the beans during the last 30 minutes of cooking. Taste and adjust the seasonings as desired, and then serve the beans in flour tortillas, topped with fried eggs, or alongside huevos rancheros.
Nuevo Laredo: Before cooking the beans, in a large pot, sauté the onions and garlic with 4 ounces (115 g) diced Cowgirl Bacon (this page) until the bacon is browned but still juicy, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the beans, bay leaves, 1 large carrot (peeled and halved), 2 chipotle chiles in adobo (chopped), and enough cold water to cover by 4 inches (10 cm), then cook as directed. Serve the beans with a dollop of Mexican crema and a sprinkling of chopped fresh marjoram or oregano.
Recommended by Enrique: Before cooking the beans, sauté the onions and garlic with 1 green bell pepper (seeded and chopped) and 1 red bell pepper (seeded and chopped) until the vegetables have softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in a heaping tablespoon of tomato paste, 2 teaspoons ground cumin, and 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and cook, stirring frequently, for 1 minute. Add ¼ cup (60 ml) dry white wine or beer and cook until the liquid is reduced by half, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the beans and enough cold water to cover the beans by 4 inches (10 cm), then cook as directed. Serve with steamed rice or alongside crispy grilled pork chops.
SMOKY LENTIL TACOS
with Red Cabbage Slaw
My friend Amy Brotman is a vegetarian and the kind of very organized cook (with a freezer brimming with labeled jars of beans, soups, and sauces) that I aspire to be. When she pulled out “lentil taco meat” for an impromptu weeknight dinner, I knew I’d need the recipe. The seasonings and tomato paste create saucy, satisfying lentils with a convincingly “meaty” flavor and texture that would be welcome at any taco night. This filling is especially good with brown Spanish pardina lentils (available in bulk or online) and the most flavorful corn tortillas you can find.
SERVES 4 TO 6
1 pound (450 g) smoked brown lentils (see this page)
2 fresh bay leaves, torn
1 teaspoon red wine or apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon pure ground chile powder (such as New Mexico or ancho)
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon dried Mexican oregano
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 white or yellow onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
Freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons tomato paste
¼ cup (60 ml) hot sauce (such as Cholula), plus more as needed
Red Cabbage Slaw
½ head red cabbage, cored and very thinly sliced (about 4 cups/280 g)
Freshly squeezed juice of 1 lime, plus more as needed
½ cup (110 g) mayonnaise (preferably Duke’s), plus more as needed
½ cup (10 g) chopped fresh cilantro (leaves and stems)
Corn tortillas, for serving
Sliced avocados, for serving
Grated Cotija cheese, for serving
Rinse the lentils and place them in a saucepan with the bay leaves, vinegar, and enough cold water to cover by 3 inches (7.5 cm). Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then turn the heat to medium-low and simmer until the lentils are just tender, 23 to 25 minutes. Discard the bay leaves and drain the lentils in a colander. Set aside to cool.
In a small bowl, combine the chile powder, cumin, coriander, oregano, and ½ teaspoon salt and set aside.
In a large, deep skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, several grinds of pepper, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is fragrant and the onion is lightly browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in the spices and cook for 1 to 2 minutes more, until the onion is well coated with the seasonings.
Add the lentils, tomato paste, 2 tablespoons hot sauce, and a splash of water and lower the heat to medium. Cook the lentils, stirring frequently, until they begin to thicken and meld with the tomato sauce, about 5 minutes (add additional water if the mixture becomes too dry). When the lentils begin to hold together, use a fork to mash a portion of them into a “meaty” texture. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding additional salt or hot sauce as desired. Turn off the heat and cover the skillet while you prepare the slaw.
To make the slaw, place the cabbage in a bowl, add the lime juice and a generous pinch of salt, and toss to combine. Add the mayonnaise, the remaining 2 tablespoons hot sauce, and cilantro and toss, adding more mayo as desired for a creamy consistency. Taste and add additional salt, pepper, lime juice, or hot sauce as desired.
Serve the warm lentils in the tortillas topped with the slaw, avocado slices, and a sprinkling of cheese. Store any leftover lentils in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week (or freeze them, as Amy does, for up to 3 months).
SMOKED CHICKPEA SALAD
with Pickled Cauliflower
The earthy flavor of smoked chickpeas pairs especially well with bright, vivid flavors like those of pickled vegetables, cucumber, and fresh dill. This beautiful cauliflower pickle recipe comes from my friends Naomi and Joel Crawford, owners of Pizza Politana and Lunchette in Petaluma, California. The pickle recipe makes four quart jars that you’ll be happy to have on hand for snacking and future meals, but you can cut it in half if you prefer.
SERVES 6 TO 8
1 pound (450 g) smoked dried chickpeas (see this page)
½ cup (120 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup (60 ml) red wine vinegar, plus more as needed
2 shallots, or 1 bunch green onions, white and light green parts, thinly sliced
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup Lunchette Pickled Cauliflower (recipe follows)
1 seedless cucumber, peeled and chopped
¼ cup (10 g) chopped fresh dill
¼ cup (10 g) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Rinse the chickpeas and discard any pebbles. Place the chickpeas in a large pot and add enough water to cover with cold water by 4 inches (10 cm). Bring the chickpeas to a boil over medium-high heat, then turn the heat to low and simmer until the chickpeas are tender, about 45 minutes, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Drain the chickpeas in a colander and transfer them to a large mixing bowl. Add the olive oil, vinegar, and shallots, season with salt and pepper, and toss to combine.
Set the chickpeas aside to cool for about 10 minutes, then add the Pickled Cauliflower, cucumber, dill, and parsley and toss to combine. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding more salt, pepper, or vinegar as desired. Serve immediately, or store in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
MAKES 4 QUARTS (3.4 KG)
2 or 3 heads cauliflower, cored and cut into florets
Kosher salt
4 cups (950 ml) white wine vinegar
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (175 g) sugar
1½ tablespoons Madras curry powder
1 tablespoon ground turmeric
4 pods green cardamom
4 bay leaves
4 teaspoons red pepper flakes, or 2 dried arbol chiles
In a large bowl, toss the cauliflower with a generous amount of salt (I use about 3 tablespoons) and let it sit for at least 30 minutes, or up to 1 hour. Rinse and drain the florets.
In a pot, combine the vinegar, 2 cups (475 ml) water, sugar, 2 tablespoons plus ½ teaspoons salt, curry powder, and turmeric and bring to a boil over high heat. Once the brine starts to boil, immediately turn off the heat.
Fill each of four 1-quart jars with cauliflower, then add 1 teaspoon cardamom, 1 bay leaf, and 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes (packing the vegetables tightly). Carefully divide the brine among the jars. Let the mixture cool 15 to 20 minutes, then seal with a tight-fitting lid. Let the jars stand at room temperature for 2 to 3 days before using, flipping and gently agitating each jar two times per day to distribute the spices (the longer the flavors have to develop, the deeper they will be). After that, store the sealed jars in the refrigerator for up to 6 months. Once opened, they’ll keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 months.
SMOKED CHICKPEAS
with Spinach & Saffron Yogurt
In cooler seasons, I love preparing deep green spinach from Oak Hill Farms in Poteet, Texas. It’s the best spinach available all year, so I incorporate it in my family’s meals as often as possible. This braise, thickened with a bread sauce, is Spanish comfort food. Don’t use baby spinach leaves in this recipe; you want to use flavorful bunches of the kind you have to clean yourself, preferably from a local grower. This is a flexible dish, so if you have a little less spinach or want to include a pinch of this or that, feel free. The smoked chickpeas retain their subtle flavor after they’re simmered (and a garnish of Spanish smoked paprika echoes the sultry flavor). Serve the warm chickpeas in shallow bowls, topped with a dollop of saffron yogurt and grilled slices of bread (rubbed with a cut clove of garlic, drizzled with olive oil, and sprinkled with flaky salt).
SERVES 6 TO 8
Smoked Chickpeas
1 pound (450 g) smoked dried chickpeas (see this page)
1½ teaspoons baking soda
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Saffron Yogurt
1 tablespoon hot water
A generous pinch of saffron (about ¾ teaspoon)
1 cup (245 g) full-fat Greek yogurt
Finely grated zest of 1 large lemon (preferably organic)
Kosher salt
½ cup (120 ml) olive oil, plus more for serving
2 large bunches spinach (about 2½ pounds/1.1 kg), stemmed and washed
1 large slab artisan bread, cut into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons fresh oregano, lightly chopped
1 teaspoon Spanish smoked paprika
1 small dried red chile (such as arbol), crumbled
½ cup (120 g) tomato sauce, or 2 tablespoons tomato paste
1½ tablespoons good-quality red wine vinegar
Grilled bread, for serving
Rinse the chickpeas and discard any pebbles. Place the chickpeas and baking soda in a large heavy saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by 4 inches (10 cm). Bring the chickpeas to a boil over medium-high heat, then turn the heat to low and simmer until the chickpeas are tender, 1½ to 2 hours, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Remove the pan from the heat and use a ladle to remove water until it’s level with the chickpeas. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.
In the meantime, to make the saffron yogurt, combine the hot water and saffron in a small bowl and allow it to steep for a few minutes. Place the yogurt and lemon zest in a bowl and stir in the saffron and a sprinkling of salt. Cover and store in the refrigerator until ready to serve.
In a large saucepan, heat ¼ cup (60 ml) of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the spinach (in batches if necessary) and a large pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until just wilted, 4 to 5 minutes. Use tongs to transfer the leaves to a colander to drain.
Add the remaining ¼ cup (60 ml) oil to the saucepan and heat over medium heat. Add the bread cubes and toast, turning often, until golden all over, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic, oregano, paprika, and chile and cook for 1 minute, until the garlic is golden brown and has a nutty aroma. Transfer the bread mixture to a food processor, and pulse into a coarse paste.
Return the chickpeas to medium heat and stir in the bread mixture and the tomato sauce and vinegar. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the chickpeas are hot and have absorbed the flavors of the bread, 3 to 4 minutes. Season generously with salt and pepper. If the consistency is a little thick, add some water. Stir in the spinach and cook until heated through, about 2 minutes.
Ladle the chickpeas into shallow bowls and top with a dollop of saffron yogurt. Serve with grilled bread on the side. Refrigerate any leftover yogurt and chickpeas in separate sealed containers for up to 5 days.
SMOKED CANNELLINI BEANS
with Tuna
The time-honored Italian pairing of white beans and tuna is a perennial favorite at our house. You can use any cannellini or white beans for this dish, but my favorite variety is the Marcella beans that I order online from Rancho Gordo, an heirloom bean grower in California. I toss the warm beans with a green herb oil and top them with the best-quality tuna packed in olive oil. You can also serve the beans with grilled tuna or another fish steak, shaved bottarga, or simmer them with an entire head of escarole (trimmed and chopped) added during the last 30 minutes of cooking.
I can’t resist adding a Parmesan rind to any pot of white beans. I love how the cheese imparts a rich flavor. Even though you drain the beans for this recipe, save the flavorful cooking liquid and freeze it to make white bean soup or minestrone.
SERVES 6 TO 8
Beans
1 pound (450 g) smoked dried Marcella or cannellini beans (see this page)
2 sprigs sage
3 or 4 fresh bay leaves
4 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 Parmesan rind
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Green Herb Oil
1 clove garlic, lightly crushed and peeled
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes or crumbled chile pequin
2 cups (80 g) combination of chopped fresh basil, thyme, oregano, dill, or flat-leaf parsley
½ cup (120 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Tuna
Two 5-ounce (140 g) cans high-quality tuna packed in olive oil, drained
1 shallot, thinly sliced
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 large lemon
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Grilled bread, for serving
Lemon wedges, for serving
To prepare the beans, rinse the beans and discard any pebbles. Place the beans, sage, bay leaves (to taste), garlic, and Parmesan rind in a large saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by 4 inches (10 cm). Bring the beans to a boil over medium-high heat, then turn the heat to low and simmer very gently until the beans are tender, about 1 hour 15 minutes, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Remove the pan from the heat, and if time allows, let the beans cool in the cooking liquid.
Meanwhile, to make the green herb oil, combine the garlic, salt, and pepper flakes in the bowl of a food processor and pulse into a coarse paste. Add the herbs and pulse until combined. With the processor running, slowly drizzle in the olive oil until the mixture pulls together into an even puree, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula as needed.
Drain the beans in a colander and transfer to a large mixing bowl, discarding the sage, bay leaves, garlic, and Parmesan rind. Pour the green herb oil over the top and gently toss the mixture until combined. Season with salt and pepper, then transfer to a large serving platter.
In the same mixing bowl, combine the tuna, shallot, and lemon zest and juice and use a fork to gently combine (leaving the tuna in larger chunks, if possible). Season the tuna mixture with salt and pepper, then use a rubber spatula to place the mixture on the top of the beans. Serve immediately, with grilled bread and lemon wedges on the side. Store leftovers in a sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
