There is no better place to start than at the very beginning. If you are starting from scratch, even a trip to the fabric store can be challenging. Manufacturers can’t include all the vital information with their packaging, and there are so many tools and sewing notions to choose from. To give you a firm foundation for learning to sew, this section teaches you the essentials about your sewing machine, fabrics, patterns, and sewing supplies. If you have never taken a stitch, you will appreciate the detailed information, photos, and illustrations. Even if you have a little sewing experience, you are sure to learn some things you didn’t know. So settle back, take your time, and jump into the basics.
The principle parts common to all modern sewing machines are shown in the diagram at right. The parts may look different on your model, and they may have slightly different locations, so open your owner’s manual, also. If you do not have an owner’s manual for your machine, contact a sewing machine dealer who sells your brand or search the Internet. Become familiar with the names of the parts and their functions. As you spend more time sewing, these items will become second nature to you.
If you are buying a new machine, consider how much and what kind of sewing you expect to do. Talk to friends who sew and to sales personnel. Ask for demonstrations, and sew on the machine yourself. Experiment with the various features while sewing on a variety of fabrics, including knits, wovens, lightweights, and denim. Think about the optional features of the machine and which ones you want on yours. Many dealers offer free sewing lessons with the purchase of a machine. Take advantage! These lessons will be geared to your particular brand and model of sewing machine.
These parts are common to all sewing machines, but their position and design differs. Use your manual to help you learn where these parts are, what these parts do, and how to use them:
Bobbin case
Bobbin winder spindle
Bobbin winder tension
Buttonhole knob
Detachable machine bed
Feed dogs
Feed dog control
General-purpose presser foot
Handwheel
Light switch
Needle clamp
Presser foot lifter
Presser foot pressure control
Seam allowance guide
Spool pins
Stitch pattern selector
Stitch length selector
Stitch width selector
Take-up lever
Top tension control
Top tension discs
Thread cutter
Thread guides
Throat plate
Variable speed switch
Sewing machine needles come in a variety of styles and sizes. The correct needle choice depends mostly on the fabric you have selected. Sharp points (A), used for woven fabrics, are designed to pierce the fabric. Ballpoints (B) are designed to slip between the loops of knit fabric rather than pierce and possibly damage the fabric. Universal points are designed to work on both woven and knitted fabrics. The size of the needle is designated by a number, generally given in both American (9, 11, 12, 14, 16, 18) and European (60, 70, 80, 90, 100, 110) numbering systems. Use size 11/70 or 12/80 needles for mediumweight fabrics. A larger number means the needle is thicker and that it is appropriate for use with heavier fabrics and heavier threads.
TIP Though needle style and size are usually indicated in some way on the needle, it is often difficult to see without a magnifying glass, and you most likely will not remember what needle is in the machine. As an easy reminder, when you finish a sewing session, leave a fabric swatch from your current project under the presser foot.
Stitches are made by locking the upper thread with a lower thread, carried on a bobbin. Always use bobbins in the correct style and size for your machine. Bobbin thread tension is controlled by a spring on the bobbin case, which may be built in (C) or removable (D).
Every sewing machine comes with accessories for specialized tasks. More can be purchased as you develop your interest and skills. Your machine manual or dealer can show you what accessories are available and will explain how to use them to get the best results.
A general-purpose foot (A), probably the one you will use most often, has a wide opening to accommodate the side-to-side movement of the needle in all types of utility (nondecorative) stitches. It is also suitable for most straight stitching. A zipper foot (B) is used to insert zippers or to stitch any seam that has more bulk on one side than the other. For some sewing machines, the zipper foot is stationary, requiring you to move the needle position to the right or left. For other styles, the position of the zipper foot itself is adjustable. A special-purpose or embroidery foot (C) has a grooved bottom that allows the foot to ride smoothly over decorative stitches or raised cords. Some styles are clear plastic, allowing you to see your work more clearly. A walking foot (D) feeds top and bottom layers at equal rates, allowing you to more easily match patterns or stitch bulky layers as for quilting.
Sewing involves many steps: measuring, laying out the pattern, cutting, marking, stitching, and pressing. For each of these steps there are special tools and supplies to make your sewing easier and help you complete your projects successfully. Don’t feel you need to buy all the items before you start. For instance, a pair of sharp shears and a seam ripper will see you through most of the cutting tasks for the projects in this book. You will undoubtedly acquire additional tools as your skills and interests grow.
Needles and pins are available in a variety of sizes and styles. Look for rustproof needles and pins made of brass, nickel-plated steel, or stainless steel. Pictured from top to bottom:
Sharps are all-purpose, medium-length needles designed for general sewing.
Crewels are sharp, large-eyed medium-length needles, designed for embroidery.
Betweens are very short and round-eyed. They are useful for hand quilting and making fine stitches.
Milliner’s needles are long with round eyes and are used for making long basting or gathering stitches.
Pins with colored ball heads are easier to see and are less likely to get lost than those with flat heads.
straight pins are used for general sewing. They should be slim and are usually 11/16" (2.7 cm) long.
Quilting pins are 13/4" (4.5 cm) long. Their extra length makes them ideal for use on bulky fabrics or fabrics with extra loft.
A A thimble protects your finger while hand sewing. Available in a variety of styles and sizes, it is worn on whichever finger you use to push the needle through the fabric. Most people prefer either the middle or ring finger. Using a thimble is an acquired habit. Some people can’t get along without one, while others feel they are a nuisance.
B Pincushions provide a safe and handy place to store pins. One style is worn on the wrist for convenience. Another style, a magnetic tray, attracts and holds steel pins. Be careful not to place any magnetic tools near a computerized machine, because the magnet may interfere with the machine’s memory.
C Needle threaders ease threading of hand and machine needles. This is especially useful if you have difficulty seeing something that small.
D Thread can be drawn through beeswax to strengthen it and prevent it from tangling while hand sewing.
A Transparent ruler allows you to see what you are measuring and marking. It also is used to check fabric grainline.
B Yardstick (meterstick) should be made of smooth hardwood or metal.
C Tape measure has the flexibility helpful for measuring items with shape and dimension. Select one made of a material that will not stretch.
D Seam gauge is a 6" (15 cm) metal or plastic ruler with a sliding marker. It helps take quick, accurate measurements and can be used to measure seam allowance widths.
E Transparent T-square is used to locate grain-line and to measure 90-degree angles.
F Marking chalk is available in several forms: as powder in a rolling wheel dispenser, as a pencil, or as a flat slice. Chalk lines are easily removable from most fabrics.
G Fabric marking pens are available in both air-erasable and water-erasable forms. Air-erasable marks disappear within 48 hours; water-erasable marks wash off with a sprinkling of water.
H Narrow masking tape is an alternative method for marking fabrics when other methods are less suitable.
Buy quality cutting tools and use them only for your sewing! Cutting paper or other household materials will dull your cutting tools quickly. Dull tools are not only tiresome to work with, they can also damage fabric. Scissors have both handles the same size; shears have one handle larger than the other. Have your cutting tools sharpened periodically by a qualified professional.
I Bent-handled dressmaker’s shears are best for cutting out project pieces because the angle of the lower blade lets fabric lie flat on the cutting surface. Blade lengths of 7" or 8" (18 or 20.5 cm) are most popular, but lengths of up to 12" (30.5 cm) are available. Select a blade length appropriate for the size of your hand; shorter lengths for smaller hands. Left-handed models are also available.
J Sewing scissors with pointed tips are handy for clipping threads and trimming and clipping seam allowances. A 6" (15 cm) blade is suitable for most tasks.
K Seam ripper quickly removes stitches and opens buttonholes. Use it carefully to avoid cutting the fabric.
L Rotary cutter works like a pizza cutter and can be used by left-handed or right-handed sewers. A locking mechanism retracts the blade for safety. Use the rotary cutter with a special plastic mat, available in different sizes, with or without gridlines. The self-healing mat protects both the work surface and the blade.
M Pinking shears and pinking rotary cutters are used to finish seam allowances. They cut fabric in a zigzag or scalloped pattern instead of a straight line.
Pressing at each stage of construction is the secret to a perfectly finished garment. The general rule is to press each stitched seam before crossing it with another.
A Steam/spray iron should have a wide temperature range to accommodate all fabrics. Buy a dependable, name-brand iron. An iron that steams and sprays at any setting, not just the higher heat settings, is helpful for fabrics with synthetic fibers.
B Press cloth helps prevent iron shine and is always used when applying fusibles. The transparent cloth allows you to see if the fabric is smooth and the layers are properly aligned.
C Teflon-coated sole plate guard, available to fit most irons, eliminates the need for a press cloth.
D Seam roll is a firmly packed cylindrical cushion for pressing seams. The bulk of the fabric falls to the sides away from the iron, preventing the seam from making an imprint on the right side of the fabric.
E Pressing ham is a firmly packed cushion for pressing curved areas of a garment.
F Sleeve board looks like two small ironing boards attached one on top of the other. It is useful for pressing sleeves one layer at a time to avoid unwanted creases.
Many special products and gadgets are designed to assist you in various steps of the sewing process. Before using a new product, read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully. Learn what special handling or care is required, and for what fabrics or sewing techniques it is especially suited. Here are some specialized products that you may find helpful in sewing your clothes, accessories, or home décor items.
A Cutting boards protect table finishes from scratches. Available in cardboard, plastic, or padded styles, these boards also hold fabric more securely while cutting. Square off fabric using the marked lines, and use the 1" (2.5 cm) squares as an instant measure.
B Elastics can be purchased in a variety of widths and styles, either in precut lengths or by the yard (meter). Softer elastics (a) are suitable for pajamas or boxer shorts; nonroll elastic (b) stays flat in the casing; some wide elastic has channels for topstitching (c).
C Interfacing plays a supporting role in almost every garment. It is an inner layer of fabric, used to stabilize the fabric in areas like necklines and waistbands, or give support behind buttons and buttonholes. Interfacings may be woven, non-woven, or knit; the easiest forms to use are heat fusible and these should come with instructions.
D A bodkin is used to thread elastic or cording through a casing. One end holds the elastic tightly while you feed the tool through the narrow casing, pulling the elastic or cording behind it.
E Point turner is helpful for perfecting corners, such as at the top of a pocket or at the ends of a waistband, or inside a pillow cover. Slip the tool inside the item, and gently poke the fabric out into a point.
F Liquid fray preventer is a colorless plastic liquid that prevents fraying by stiffening the fabric slightly. It is helpful when you have clipped too far into a seam allowance or want to reinforce a buttonhole. It may discolor some fabrics, so test before using, and apply carefully. The liquid may be removed with rubbing alcohol. It dries to a permanent finish that will withstand laundering and dry cleaning.
G Glue stick is a convenient substitute for pinning or basting when you need to hold an item in place temporarily before stitching. The temporary adhesive in a retractable tube can be applied in small dots. It won’t discolor the fabric and washes out completely, if necessary. It will not harm your machine or gum up your needle as you stitch through it.
H Buttonhole cutter is a handy tool for making precision cuts down the center of buttonholes. It comes with a wooden block to place under the fabric to protect your work surface and accept the sharp thin blade of the cutter. While buttonholes can be cut open with small scissors or a seam ripper, a buttonhole cutter is more accurate and less likely to cut the stitches.
I Basting tape is double-faced adhesive tape used instead of pinning or basting. It is especially helpful for matching prints, applying zippers, and positioning trims. Some manufacturers advise that you avoid stitching through the tape because the adhesive may collect on your needle.
J Single-fold bias tape is useful for hemming curved edges, such as a round tablecloth. The manufacturer has already cut the bias strips, sewn them together, and pressed in precise folds to make your sewing easier. The tape is available in packaged lengths in a wide ranges of colors.
K Paper-backed fusible web is sold on rolls, in various narrow widths. It is also available as a wide sheet rolled on a bolt for purchase by the yard (meter). It is a time-saving product used for adhering two pieces of fabric together. For instance, you may use narrow strips of it to secure the side hems of a Roman shade instead of stitching them. A protective paper backing is removed from one side after the other side has been fused to the fabric.
L Blanket binding resembles a wide satin ribbon that has been pressed in half for encasing the raw edge around a blanket. Packaged in a convenient length for sewing baby blankets, the binding is available in assorted soft colors and white. Because of its stability and permanent crease, it is easy to work with, yet feels silky smooth against a baby’s skin.
Selecting the right fabrics for your projects may seem like an overwhelming task, but there are a few simple guidelines to help narrow the field. One good way to learn about fabrics is to browse through a fabric store, handling the fabrics and reading the fiber content information and care instructions printed on the ends of the bolts. You may already know whether you want a solid color, a printed pattern, or perhaps a multicolored fabric. Do you need a fabric that can be laundered frequently? Do you want smooth or textured, stiff or drapable, lightweight or heavy? Some basic fabric knowledge and a thought-out plan will help you make wise choices and avoid costly errors.
Natural fabrics are made from plant or animal fibers, spun into yarns: cotton, wool, silk, and linen are most common. Naturals are often considered the easiest fabrics to sew. Synthetic fabrics, made from chemically produced fibers, include nylon, acrylic, acetate, and polyester. Rayon is a man-made fiber made from a plant source. Each fiber has unique characteristics, desirable for different reasons. Many fabrics are a blend of natural and synthetic fibers, offering you the best qualities of each, such as the breathable comfort of cotton blended with the wrinkle resistance of polyester.
Woven fabrics have straight lengthwise and crosswise yarns. The pattern in which the yarns are woven gives the fabric its characteristic surface texture and appearance. The outer edges of woven fabrics are called selvages. As a general rule, they should be trimmed away because they are often heavier than the rest of the fabric, and they may shrink when laundered or pressed. Grainlines are the directions in which the fabric yarns run. Strong, stable lengthwise yarns, running parallel to the selvages, form the lengthwise grain. The crosswise grain is perpendicular to the lengthwise grain and has a small amount of give. Any diagonal direction, called the bias, has a fair amount of stretch.
Knit fabrics consist of rows of interlocking loops of yarn, as in a hand-knit sweater, but usually on a finer scale. Knit fabrics are more flexible than other fabrics, and they all stretch. These features mean that garments made of knits require less fitting and offer more freedom of movement. When sewing with knits, select patterns that are specifically designed for knit fabrics.
knit fabric is made from interlocking looped stitches. The lengthwise rows of stitches are called ribs; the crosswise rows are called courses. These ribs and courses correspond to the lengthwise and crosswise grains of woven fabrics.
Patterns designed for knit fabrics have a stretch gauge. Fold over the fabric along a crosswise course several inches (centimeters) from a cut end, and test its degree of stretch against the gauge. If the fabric stretches the necessary amount without distortion, it is suitable for the pattern.
Fabrics in a store are divided into fashion fabrics and decorator fabrics. Decorator fabrics are generally more durable than fashion fabrics; most have stain-resistant finishes. They are designed for pillows, slipcovers, window treatments, and other home decorating projects. They are manufactured in widths (crosswise grain) of 48" or 54" (122 or 137 cm), though occasionally you may find some wider. To prevent creases, decorator fabrics are rolled on tubes.
Fashion fabrics are usually folded double and rolled on cardboard bolts. They vary in width; the most common are 36", 45", and 60" (91.5, 115, and 152.5 cm). Though fashion fabrics are intended for apparel, many of them are also suitable for home decorating. Most stores arrange their fashion fabrics according to the fiber content or fabric style. For example, all the wools and wool blends, suitable for skirts, slacks, and jackets, may be found together in one area of the store; all the bridal and special-occasion fabrics located in another area; quilting fabrics (lightweight cottons) in another. This is not a hard-and-fast rule, however, so you will want to spend time getting acquainted with the fabric stores you shop.
Preshrink washable fabric before cutting out the project, by washing and drying it in the same way you will care for the finished item. Because most decorator fabrics are not washable and require dry cleaning when necessary, preshrink them by pressing with steam, moving the iron evenly along the grainlines. Allow the fabric to dry before moving it.
Major pattern companies follow a uniform sizing based on standard body measurements. This is not exactly the same as ready-to-wear sizing.
To select the right pattern size, first take your standard body measurements. Wear your usual undergarments and use a tape measure that doesn’t stretch. It may be easier to have another person measure you. Record your measurements and compare them with the size chart on the back of the pattern or in the pattern book.
1 Waistline. Tie a string or piece of elastic around your middle, and allow it to roll to your natural waistline. Measure at this exact location with a tape measure. Leave the string in place as a reference for measuring your hips and back waist length.
2 Hips. Measure around the fullest part of your hips. This is usually 7" to 9" (18 to 23 cm) below the waistline, depending on your height.
3 Bust. Place the tape measure under your arms, across the widest part of the back and the fullest part of the bustline.
4 Back waist length. Measure from the middle of the most prominent bone at the base of the neck down to the waistline string.
Selecting a pattern for a garment allows for more creativity than shopping from a ready-to-wear catalog. Pattern catalogs don’t limit you to certain fabric, colors, skirt lengths, or types of trims shown on the pages. You are free to choose a combination of features that best reflect your style and are most flattering to you.
Major pattern companies publish new catalogs with each season, which means that designer trends seen in clothing stores are reflected in the newest pattern catalogs along with more classic styles. You’ll find simple patterns for sewers who prefer the quick and easy styles, and more detailed patterns for experienced sewers. The number of pattern pieces listed on the back of the pattern will provide a clue to the complexity of the pattern. The fewer pieces, the easier the project. Also, the pattern may indicate whether it is intended for knits only.
Pattern catalogs are usually divided into categories by garment types and marked by index tabs. The newest fashions often appear in the first few pages of each category. Pattern illustrations are accompanied by information on recommended fabrics and yardage requirements. An index at the back of the catalog lists patterns in numerical order along with their page numbers. The back of the catalog also includes a complete size chart for every figure type.
The pattern envelope is a selling tool and an educational device. The front generally has a photograph of the finished garment and several drawings of the variations that can be sewn using the pattern. On the pattern back, you’ll find detailed information to help you select fabric and all the notions necessary to complete your project.
Fabric amounts required for each view in all the available sizes are listed in a chart. Locate the style view and the fabric width at the left; match it with your size at the top. The number where the two columns meet is the amount of fabric you need to buy. Interfacing and elastic requirements are also listed. Metric equivalents are given in a separate chart.
Even if you love a good puzzle, your first peek at the pattern innards can be scary. Here’s what to expect.
All pattern companies use a universal system of symbols on their pattern pieces. These symbols help you lay out the pattern, show you where to cut, help you match up seamlines, show you where to sew, and give placement guides for things like buttons, buttonholes, and hems. Along with the symbols, you will also find essential instructions printed on the pattern pieces.
Prepare a large work area, such as a dining room table covered with a cutting board (page 19). Assemble all the pattern pieces you will be needing, and press out any wrinkles with a warm, dry iron.
Locate and circle the correct cutting layout diagram (page 31) on your pattern guide sheet. These diagrams usually show you the easiest, most efficient way to lay out your pattern. Some fabrics have a nap, meaning they have definite up and down directions. For these fabrics, pattern pieces must all be laid out in the same direction.
Fold the fabric in half, lengthwise. Smooth it out on the work surface, so that the selvages align and the crosswise grain is perpendicular to them. Arrange the pattern pieces as indicated in the layout diagram. White pattern shapes indicate the piece is to be placed with the printed side up. Shaded pieces are to be placed with the printed side down. Be sure to follow any other incidental directions that pertain to your layout. After all the pieces are in place, pin them to the fabric. Do not begin cutting until all the pattern pieces are in place.
1 First, position the pattern pieces that are to be cut on the fold. Place each one directly on the folded edge of the fabric. Pin the corners diagonally. Then continue pinning near the outer edge, placing the pins parallel to the cutting line. Space the pins about 3" (7.5 cm) apart; closer together on curves.
2 Place the straight-grain pattern pieces on the fabric, with the grainline arrow parallel to the selvages on woven fabrics or parallel to the ribs on knits. Measure from each end of the arrow to the selvage, shifting the pattern until the distances are equal. Pin both ends of the grainline so the pattern will not shift. Then pin the outer edges.
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FOLD THE FABRIC IN HALF, LENGTHWISE. When your fabric is folded like this, you will end up with mirror-image pieces for the left and right sides of the garment. Pattern directions usually suggest folding right sides together. Sometimes there are advantages to folding wrong sides together, such as having a better view of the fabric design or ease in marking. Either way will work.
Don’t be intimidated! Locate the correct cutting lines, and cut with confidence. Transfer the necessary marks, and you’ll be ready to sew!
Accuracy is important, since mistakes made in cutting cannot always be corrected. Before cutting, double-check the placement of the pattern pieces.
A Using bent-handled shears, cut with long, firm strokes, cutting directly on the cutting line. Take shorter strokes around curves. If you are using a multisize pattern, be sure that you follow the correct cutting line all the time.
B Notches can be cut outward, especially if the fabric is loosely woven or if the pattern calls for 1/4" (6 mm) seam allowances. Cut multiple notches as one unit, not separately. Or, you can cut directly through the notches, and then mark them with short snips into the seam allowances.
C If you prefer to use a rotary cutter and mat, be sure to keep the mat under the area being cut. Use steady, even pressure, and, above all, keep fingers and small children away from the rotary cutter.
Keep the pattern pieces pinned in place after cutting. Transfer pattern symbols to the appropriate side of the fabric, using one of the following methods.
A Pins are a quick way to transfer marks. Since they may fall out easily, use pin marks only when you intend to sew immediately. Or, pin-mark first, remove the pattern, and mark again, using chalk or erasable fabric marker.
B Erasable fabric markers are felt-tip pens designed specifically for sewing needs. Air-erasable marks disappear within 48 hours. Water-erasable marks disappear with a spritz of water.
C Chalk is available in pencil form or as a powder in a rolling wheel dispenser.
D Snips are handy for marking things like dots at shoulder seams. Make shallow snips into the seam allowances at the dot locations.
Simple tasks of inserting the needle, winding the bobbin, and threading the machine have tremendous influence on the stitch quality and performance of your machine. Use this guide as a general reference, but refer to your owner’s manual for instructions specific to your machine.
Loosen the needle clamp. After selecting the appropriate needle for your project (page 12), insert it into the machine as high as it will go. The grooved side of the needle faces forward, if your bobbin gets inserted from the front or top; it faces to the left, if your bobbin gets inserted on the left. Tighten the clamp securely.
If the bobbin case is built in, the bobbin is wound in place with the machine fully threaded as if to sew (page 40).
Removable bobbins are wound on the top or side of the machine, with the machine threaded for bobbin winding, as described in your owner’s manual.
Bobbin thread must be drawn through the bobbin case tension spring. For wind-in-place bobbins, this happens automatically when you wind the bobbin, but you must do it manually when you insert a bobbin that already has thread on it.
After inserting the bobbin and threading the machine (page 40), you need to draw the bobbin thread to the top. Hold the needle thread while turning the handwheel toward you one full turn. As the needle goes down, the top thread interlocks with the bobbin thread and brings it up through the needle hole. Pull both threads together under the presser foot and off to the side or back.
Because every sewing machine is different, the threading procedure for your machine may differ slightly from the one shown here. Once again, it is important to refer to your owner’s manual. Every upper thread guide adds a little tension to the thread as it winds its way to the needle. Missing one of them can make a big difference in the quality of your stitches.
1 Set the thread spool on the spindle. For a vertical spindle, position the spool so that it will turn clockwise as you sew. If the spindle is horizontal, the spool is held in place with an end cap. If your spool has a small cut in one end for minding the thread, position the spool with that end to the right.
TIP If the spool is new and has paper labels covering the holes, poke them in, completely uncovering the holes, to allow the spool to turn freely. Unless your machine has a self-winding bobbin, you will want to wind the bobbin (page 38) before threading the machine.
2 Pull thread to the left and through the first thread guide.
3 Draw thread through the tension guide.
4 Draw thread through the next thread guide.
5 Insert thread through the hole or slot in take-up lever.
6 Draw the thread through the remaining thread guides.
7 Thread the needle. Most needles are threaded from front to back; some, from side to side.
8 Holding the needle thread, turn the hand-wheel toward you one full rotation. The needle thread will engage the bobbin thread. When you tug on the needle thread, the bobbin thread should come up through the hole in the needle plate.
TIP It is very important to have the presser foot lever up when threading the machine because the tension discs are then open. If the presser foot is down and the discs are closed, the thread will not slide between the discs, and your stitches will not form properly.
Little frustrations, such as thread jams, erratic stitching lines, or having the thread pull out of the needle at the start of a seam, can often be prevented or corrected by following these basic guidelines.
1 Thread your machine (page 40) and insert the bobbin (page 12). Holding the needle thread with your left hand, turn the handwheel toward you until the needle has gone down and come back up to its highest point. You will feel a tug on the needle thread. Pull on the needle thread to bring the bobbin thread up through the hole in the throat plate. Pull both threads together under the presser foot and off to one side.
2 Cut rectangles of fabric. Place the pieces right sides together, aligning the outer edges. Pin the pieces together along one long edge, inserting the pins about every 2" (5 cm), perpendicular to the edge. Place the fabric under the presser foot so the pinned side edges align to the 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam allowance guide and the upper edges align to the back of the presser foot. Lower the presser foot, and set your stitch length at 2.5 mm, which equals 10 stitches per inch.
3 Backstitch several stitches to the upper edge of the fabric. Hold the thread tails under a finger for the first few stitches. This prevents the needle thread from being pulled out of the needle and also prevents the thread tails from being drawn down into the bobbin case, where they could potentially cause a thread jam.
4 Stitch forward over the backstitched line, and continue sewing the 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam. Gently guide the fabric while you sew by walking your fingers ahead of and slightly to the sides of the presser foot. Remember, you are only guiding; let the machine pull the fabric.
5 Stop stitching and remove pins as you come to them. When you reach the end of the fabric, stop stitching; backstitch several stitches, and stop again. Turn the handwheel toward you until the needle is in its highest position.
6 Raise the presser foot. Pull the fabric smoothly away from the presser foot, either to the left side or straight back. If you have to tug the threads, turn your handwheel slightly toward you until they pull easily. Cut the threads, leaving tails 21/2" to 3" (6.5 to 7.5 cm) long.
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INSERTING THE PINS PERPENDICULAR TO THE EDGE. This makes it much easier to remove them as you sew. The pin heads are near the raw edge where you can easily grasp them with your right hand. In this position, you are much less likely to stick yourself with a pin as you sew.
REMOVE PINS AS YOU COME TO THEM. As tempting as it may be, don’t sew over pins! You may be lucky and save a few seconds, or you could hit a pin and break your needle, costing you much more time in the long run.
Your machine forms stitches by interlocking the bobbin thread with the needle thread. Every time the needle goes down into the fabric, a sharp hook catches the needle thread and wraps the bobbin thread around it. Imagine this little tug-of-war. If the needle thread tension is “stronger” than the bobbin thread tension, the needle thread pulls the bobbin thread through to the top. If the bobbin thread tension is “stronger,” it pulls the needle thread through to the bottom. When the tensions are evenly balanced, the stitch will lock exactly halfway between the top and bottom of the layers being sewn, which is right where you want it.
Some machines have “self-adjusting tension,” meaning the machine automatically adjusts its tension with every fabric you sew. For machines that do not have this feature, you may have to adjust the needle thread tension slightly as you sew different fabrics.
1 Thread your machine and insert the bobbin, using two very different colors of thread, neither of which matches the fabric. Cut an 8” (20.5 cm) square of a smooth, mediumweight fabric. Fold the fabric in half diagonally, and place it under the presser foot so the fold aligns to your 1/2" (1.3 cm) seam guide. Lower the presser foot and set your stitch length at ten stitches per inch or 2.5 mm long.
2 Stitch a line across the fabric, stitching 1/2" (1.3 cm) from the diagonal fold. Remove the fabric from the machine. Inspect your stitching line from both sides. If your tension is evenly balanced, you will see only one color on each side. If you see both thread colors on the top side of your sample, the needle tension is tighter than the bobbin tension. If you see both thread colors on the back side of your sample, the bobbin tension is tighter than the needle tension.
3 Pull on your stitching line until you hear threads break. (Because you stitched on the bias, the fabric will stretch slightly.) If the thread breaks on only one side, your machine’s tension is tighter on that side.
Top tension too tight
Top tension too loose
Tension even
Before adjusting the tension on your machine, first check:
that your machine is properly threaded (page 40)
that your bobbin is properly installed
that your needle is not damaged and is inserted correctly
After checking these three things, you may need to adjust the tension on your machine. (Check your owner’s manual.) Tighten or loosen the needle thread tension slightly to bring the needle thread and bobbin thread tensions into balance. Test the stitches after each adjustment, until you achieve balanced tension. If slight adjustments of the needle tension dial do not solve the problem, the bobbin tension may need adjusting. However, most manufacturers do not recommend that you adjust bobbin tension yourself, so unless you have received instructions for adjusting the bobbin tension on your machine, take your machine in for repair.
A Stitched and pinked finish. Stitch 1/4" (6 mm) from each seam allowance edge, using a straight stitch set at 12 stitches per inch, which equals 2 mm. Trim close to the stitching, using pinking shears (page 17). This finish is suitable for finely woven fabrics that do not ravel easily.
B Zigzag finish. Set the zigzag stitch on or near maximum width and a length of 10 stitches per inch, which equals 2.5 mm. Stitch close to the edge of each seam allowance so that the right-hand stitches go just over the edge. If the fabric puckers, try a narrower zigzag width.
C Multistitch-zigzag finish. If your machine has this stitch, check your owner’s manual for directions on selecting the settings. Stitch near, but not over the edge of, each seam allowance.
D Turn and zigzag finish. Set the zigzag stitch near maximum width at a length of 10 stitches per inch, which equals 2.5 mm. Turn under the seam allowance edge 1/8" to 1/4" (3 to 6 mm). Stitch close to the folded edge so that the right-hand stitches go just on or over the fold. Use this finish on loosely woven fabrics, especially on garments, such as jackets, where the inside may be visible occasionally.
TIP Straight stitching lines are easier to achieve if you watch the edge of the fabric along the seam guide and ignore the needle. Sew smoothly at a relaxing pace, with minimal starting and stopping, and without bursts of speed. You have better control of the speed if you operate your foot control with your heel resting on the floor.
Aside from the standard straight-stitch seam, your machine is probably capable of sewing several other stitches that are appropriate for various fabrics and situations. Whenever you sew with knits, for example, you want a seam that will stretch with the fabric. To prevent raveling of woven fabrics, seam allowance edges must be finished. There are several finishing methods to choose from, depending on the fabric and the capabilities of your machine. These general guidelines will help you decide when to use these stitches and finishing methods. Your owner’s manual is the best source of specific information for your machine.
Double-stitched seam (A). Stitch on the seam-line, using a straight stitch set at a length of 12 stitches per inch, which equals 2 mm long. Stretch the fabric slightly as you sew, to allow the finished seam to stretch that much. Stitch again 1/8" (3 mm) into the seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance close to the second stitching line. This seam is appropriate for fabrics with minimal stretch or for seams sewn in the vertical direction on moderate stretch knits.
Narrow zigzag seam (B). Stitch on the seam-line, using a very narrow zigzag stitch set at 12 stitches per inch, which equals 2 mm long. If the fabric is very stretchy in the direction you are sewing, you may also stretch the fabric slightly as you sew. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4" (6 mm), if necessary. Set the zigzag wider, and stitch the seam allowance edges together. This seam is appropriate for very stretchy knits.
Built-in stretch stitch (c). Differing from brand to brand, these stitches are designed to incorporate stretch, so that you do not need to stretch the fabric as you sew. Some stitch styles, like the bottom two samples, are a pattern of zigzag and straight stitches that stitch and finish the seam in one pass. Check your manual for stitch settings.
TIP The cut edges of knit fabrics do not ravel, but they often curl. To minimize this problem, the seam allowances are usually finished together and pressed to one side.
While modern sewers rely on sewing machines for speedy construction, there are situations when hand stitching is necessary or preferable. You may need to slipstitch an opening closed to finish a pillow, or perhaps you like the look of a hand-stitched blind hem on a skirt. Of course you’ll also need to sew on buttons.
Insert the thread end through the needle’s eye, for sewing with a single strand. Or fold the thread in half, and insert the fold through the eye, for sewing with a double strand. Pull through about 8" (20.5 cm). Wrap the other end(s) around your index finger. Then, using your thumb, roll the thread off your finger, twisting it into a knot.
TIP Use a single strand when slipstitching or hemming. Use a double strand when sewing on buttons. To avoid tangles, begin with thread no longer than 18" (46 cm) from the needle to the knot. Run the thread through beeswax (page 15), if desired.
1 Insert the threaded needle between the seam allowance and the garment, just behind the opening. Bring it to the outside in the seamline. If you are righthanded, work from right to left; lefties work from left to right.
2 Insert the needle into the fold just behind where the thread came up, and run it inside the fold for about 1/4" (6 mm). Bring the needle out, and draw the thread snug. Take your next stitch in the opposite fold, inserting the needle directly across from the previous stitch.
3 Continue, crossing from one fold to the other, until you have sewn past the opening. Secure the thread with several tiny stitches in the seamline. Then take a long stitch, and pull it tight. Clip the thread at the surface, and let the tail disappear inside.
1 Place the button on the mark, with the holes lining up parallel to the buttonhole. Bring the needle through the fabric from the underside and up through one hole in the button. Insert the needle into another hole and through the fabric layers.
2 Slip a toothpick, match, or sewing machine needle between the thread and the button to form a shank. Take three or four stitches through each pair of holes. Bring the needle and thread to the right side under the button. Remove thetoothpick.
3 Wind the thread two or three times around the button stitches to form the shank. Secure the thread on the right side under the button, by making a knot or taking several small stitches. Clip the threads close to the knot.
1 Place the button on the mark, with the shank hole parallel to the buttonhole. Secure the thread on the right side of the garment with a small stitch under the button.
2 Bring the needle through the shank hole. Insert the needle down through the fabric and pull the thread through. Take four to six stitches in this manner.
3 Secure the thread in the fabric under the button by making a knot or by taking several small stitches. Clip the thread ends.
There are a number of ways to hem the lower edges of skirts, pants, jackets, and shirts. Some hems are sewn by machine; others by hand. The method you choose will depend on the fabric, the garment style, and your own preference. For methods that do not involve turning under the raw edge, finish the edge (page 46) in an appropriate manner, before hemming.
A Blindstitch. Fold back the finished edge of the hem 1/4" (6 mm). Take a small stitch to anchor the thread in a seam allowance. Work with the needle pointing in the direction you are going. Take a very small horizontal stitch in the garment, catching only one or two threads. Take the next stitch in the hem, 1/4" to 1/2" (6 mm to 1.3 cm) away from the first stitch. Continue alternating stitches; do not pull too tightly.
B Blind catchstitch. Fold back the finished edge of the hem 1/4" (6 mm). Take a small stitch to anchor the thread in a seam allowance. Work with the needle pointing in the direction opposite from the way you are going. Take a very small horizontal stitch in the garment, catching only one or two threads. Take the next stitch in the hem, 1/4" to 1/2" (6 mm to 1.3 cm) away from the first stitch, crossing the stitches. Continue alternating the stitches in a zigzag pattern.
C Slipstitch. Fold under the raw edge 1/4" (6 mm), and press. Take a small stitch to anchor the thread in a seam allowance. Work with the needle pointing in the direction you are going. Follow the directions for slipstitching on page 49, catching only one or two threads with each stitch that goes into the garment.
A Machine blindstitch. Follow your manual for adjusting the stitch settings, and use the appropriate presser foot. Test the stitch on a scrap of the garment fabric until you are happy with the results. (A) Place the hem allowance facedown on the machine bed, with the bulk of the garment folded back. Allow about 1/4" (6 mm) of the hem edge to extend under the presser foot, aligning the soft fold to rest against the guide in the foot. Stitch along the hem, close to the fold, catching only one or two threads of the garment with each left-hand stitch of the needle.
B When complete, open out the hem, and press it flat.
C Double-fold hem. This method results in one or two rows of straight stitches showing on the right side. Turn under a double-fold hem. Then stitch along the inner fold and repeat at the outer fold, if desired. This method is most successful on straight edges where there is no excess fullness to ease in.
D Double-needle hem. Stitched from the right side of the fabric, this hem is suitable for knit garments, because it will stretch slightly. The farther apart the needles are spaced, the more stretch the hem will have. However, widely spaced needles will usually produce a ridge between the stitching lines. Using two thread spools on top, thread both needles. Place tape on the bed of the machine as a stitching guide.
Cutting into a new piece of fabric may seem a little scary, considering the investment you have just made. Here are a few guidelines for accurate cutting that should boost your confidence.
After preshrinking, straighten the cut ends of the fabric, using one of the three methods opposite. Then mark the other cutting lines, using the straightened edge as a guide. Before cutting full-width pieces of fabric for large home décor projects, such as tablecloths, duvet covers, or Roman shades, pin-mark the placement of each cut along the selvage. Mark out pieces for smaller projects, like decorator pillows or napkins, with chalk. Double-check your measurements and inspect the fabric for flaws. Once you have cut into the fabric, you cannot return it. To ensure that large décor items will hang or lay straight, the fabric lengths must be cut on-grain. This means that the cuts are made along the exact crosswise grain of the fabric. Patterned decorator fabrics are cut following the pattern repeat rather than the grainline so they must be printed on-grain.
A For tightly woven fabrics without a matchable pattern, mark straight cuts on the crosswise grain, using a carpenter’s square. Align one edge to a selvage and mark along the perpendicular side.
B For loosely woven fabrics, such as linen tablecloth fabric, pull out a yarn along the crosswise grain, from selvage to selvage. Cut along the line left by the missing yarn.
C For tightly woven patterned decorator fabric, mark both selvages at the exact same point in the pattern repeat. Using a long straightedge, draw a line connecting the two points. If you will be stitching two or more full widths of fabric together, make all the cuts at the same location in the repeat. This usually means that you cut the pieces longer than necessary, stitch them together, and then trim them to the necessary length.
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PRINTED ON-GRAIN. This means the pattern repeat coincides exactly with the crosswise grain of the fabric. To test fabric before you buy, place it on a flat surface and fold the cut edge back, aligning the selvages on the sides. Crease the fold with your fingers, then unfold the fabric and check to see if the crease runs into the selvage at exactly the same point in the pattern on both sides. Slight differences of less than 2" (5 cm) can usually be corrected by stretching the fabric diagonally. Avoid buying fabric that is printed more that 2" (5 cm) off-grain, as you will not be able to correct it, and the finished project will not hang straight.
Stitching seams in decorator fabrics that have printed designs or woven-in patterns requires a few extra steps to make sure the pattern will flow uninterrupted from one fabric width to the next.
1 Place two fabric widths right sides together, aligning the selvages. Fold back the upper selvage until the pattern matches. Adjust the top layer slightly up or down so that the pattern lines up exactly. Press the foldline.
2 Unfold the pressed selvage, and pin the fabric widths together, inserting the pins in and parallel to the foldline.
3 Turn the fabric over, and check the match from the right side. Make any necessary adjustments.
4 Repin the fabric so the pins are perpendicular to the foldline. Stitch the seam following the foldline; remove pins as you come to them (p. 43).
5 Check the match from the right side again. Make any necessary adjustments. Trim away the selvages, cutting the seam allowances to 1/2" (1.3 cm).
6 Set the pattern selector to zigzag and your stitch width and length to medium. Finish the raw edges together by zigzagging down the length of the seam. Press the seam allowances to one side.
7 Trim the entire fabric panel to the necessary cut length as determined in the project instructions. (Remember your initial cut length for the patterned fabric included extra length to accommodate the pattern repeat.)
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ZIGZAG. The sewing machine needle moves from side to side with each stitch. You can adjust the width and length of the zigzag. Experiment with different settings on a scrap of fabric.
FINISH THE RAW EDGES TOGETHER. This prevents the fabric from raveling, which is especially important for home décor items that are not lined.
