7
PIZZA AL TAGLIO
If we’re being honest, then I have to give full disclosure. My first love of square pie started at a very young age. But it wasn’t called square pie, or pizza al taglio, and it didn’t have big, airy fermentation pockets. It was called Ellio’s pizza. Yup. I’m not afraid to say that it was frozen, out-of-the-box, and into-the-toaster-oven Ellio’s. I would char the hell out of it. I loved it supercrispy on the edges, almost burnt. I probably downed a couple boxes a week as after-school snacks. I lived on that square pizza. Even later, when I saw round pizzas at the local pizzeria, I would always opt for a thick slice of square tomato pie. It was thicker and chewier than Ellio’s, but it was all the same to me.
Yes, my tastes have become more refined as I’ve gotten older. I’ve come to appreciate all kinds of different pizzas. But I’ll always have a soft spot for square pie. There’s something about that thick, airy crust that moves me. And a trip to Rome a few years ago with my wife resurrected that childhood obsession. Before opening our Philadelphia trattoria Amis, we ate our way, once again, through Rome and stopped at Gabriele Bonci’s Pizzarium for a slice.
Ellio’s is one thing, but Pizzarium is an entirely different experience. At first glance, you see the most colorful display window you’ve ever seen in a restaurant. Just one look in the case tells you whether it is spring, summer, fall, or winter. The season’s bounty is on full display with innovative flavor combinations like persimmons, ’nduja (spreadable salami), and ricotta in the fall; potatoes, eggs, and almonds in the spring; and green tomatoes, mango, baccala (salt cod), and bitter greens in the summer. You order whatever you want by the cut (al taglio), and pay for it by weight.
The beauty of the toppings draws you in, but it’s the dough that keeps you coming back! Gabriele Bonci ferments his dough at a low temperature for a long time, so it develops incredible flavor. He also incorporates fresh-milled whole grain flour into the dough, adding another layer of flavor. I can’t stress enough how important these two factors are in pizza dough. Yes, slow fermentation takes longer. And fresh milling does take a little extra effort. But the flavor benefits are soooo worth it.
Even if you use store-bought bread flour, you’ll love al taglio dough. You just mix it with a spoon and a bowl—no stand mixer needed—and then fold it over itself a few times. No kneading! It’s so simple. It’s also saturated with water—about 80% hydration. All that water makes the dough puff up with nice big holes, and when it bakes, al taglio pizza comes out superlight and airy. The dough is satisfying and chewy, yet light at the same time.
Not many people talk about having a relationship with their dough. But when you mix and fold this kind of pizza dough only with your hands—instead of in a machine—that is precisely what happens. You get a feel for it. You start to know what it needs. You feel when it’s a little cold and wants to be put in a warmer spot. You feel when it’s too loose and needs another fold to firm it up a bit. I can tell you with 100% certainty that when you make something with only your hands, over time, you develop a relationship with it. You begin to understand the dough, and it begins to tell you things.
Quick story. When I first started making hand-mixed al taglio dough, I had trouble figuring out when to put the salt in. I tried so many different ways, and I got different results every time. The salt always affected the yeast in a different way. Finally, I did it the old-school Neapolitan way. I dissolved the salt in some water, but then I added the salt water later on. It turns out that adding the salt in the second round of folding the dough was the perfect timing. The dough told me that this was the right way. When I made the third fold, I could feel how happy the dough was. The yeast was bubbly and alive, and the gluten in the flour was starting to firm up and tighten the whole thing.
If this is your first time making pizza from scratch, I highly recommend making al taglio dough. It will give you a feel for dough in general, and it’s almost impossible to screw up. The pizza itself couldn’t be simpler. Just shape it and bake it on a sheet pan in your oven. Like the other pizzas in this book, choose whatever toppings you want. The toppings here make enough for 1 half-sheet pan pizza (18 by 13 inches/45 by 33 cm). And if you want to use one of these al taglio toppings on a 10- or 12-inch (25 or 30 cm) round pie, just use half the amount. For that matter, if you want to use any of the round pie toppings (this page and this page) on an al taglio pie, just double the amounts.
PIZZA
STYLES
B.B. King is one of the greatest blues guitarists of all time, yet his solos are often one note on one string. Why is he so important to the history of the blues? For the same reason that pizza rossa is important to the history of pizza. Rossa is just pureed raw tomatoes, salt, and olive oil. It is one note—tomato—and the essence of pizza. Simplicity done right can be the highest form of sophistication, and pizza rossa done right is the B.B. King of pizza.
MAKES 1 RECTANGULAR PIZZA, ABOUT 20 BY 12 INCHES (50 BY 30 CM)
920 grams (2 pounds) Al Taglio Dough at 80% Hydration (this page)
1 cup (237 ml) Marinara Sauce (this page)
Flour, for dusting
Let the dough warm up at room temperature for at least 1 hour or up to 3 hours. As it warms up, the dough will relax and become easier to shape.
Preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C) and set a large baking steel or stone (at least 22 by 13 inches/56 by 33 cm) on the middle rack with no racks above it so you have easy access to the middle rack. Preheat for at least 45 minutes.
Have the sauce ready to go.
TO SHAPE THE DOUGH: The goal is to stretch the dough into a rectangle about 20 inches long by 12 inches wide (50 by 30 cm) with an even thickness across the entire surface. There are lots of ways. Here’s how I usually do it. Generously flour a large rectangular wooden pizza peel or cutting board that’s at least 22 inches long by 13 inches wide (56 by 33 cm). If you’re nervous about transferring the dough to the oven, cut a piece of parchment with slightly larger dimensions than the pizza peel or cutting board and place the parchment on the peel or board. Flour the parchment. Use a dough scraper to scrape the dough from the bowl and transfer it to the floured surface. Lightly flour your hands and then gently flatten the dough under your palms, dimpling, pressing, and stretching it in opposite directions. The dough should be soft enough to easily stretch on the work surface. You can also grab the edge on opposite ends and stretch the dough that way. Continue stretching the dough to a rectangle about 20 inches long by 12 inches wide (50 by 30 cm) with an even thickness of about ¼ inch (0.6 cm). If it’s difficult to stretch, let it rest a few minutes and stretch it again. When fully stretched, give the peel or board a quick shake to make sure the dough can still slide on it.
TO BAKE THE PIZZA: Spread the sauce on the dough, leaving about a ¼-inch (0.6 cm) border of dough all around the edge. Slide and shake the pizza from the peel or board onto the steel or stone with the parchment still in place, if using. Bake until the sauce seeps into the dough a bit and the dough is golden brown and puffed on the edges, 10 to 12 minutes. Some darker spots on the dough are okay but you don’t want burnt and blistered dough in this pizza. Slightly rotate the dough as necessary for even cooking. If using parchment, remove the parchment halfway through baking to prevent the parchment from scorching.
Remove the pizza from the oven to a cutting board and slice. I like to cut the entire pizza in half lengthwise, then make 6 or 7 crosswise cuts to make rectangles.
The long rectangular shape of this pizza is similar to what you find in Rome, where pizza rossa is baked in deep deck ovens. If you don’t have a large baking steel or stone for your home oven, shape the dough on an oiled half-sheet pan (18 by 13 inches/45 by 33 cm) instead and then bake it right in the pan as shown on this page. The pizza will be slightly thicker but still delicious.
PIZZA BIANCA: Instead of using marinara sauce, just drizzle the pressed-out dough with olive oil and flake salt, such as Maldon.
STUFFED PIZZA BIANCA: Make a Pizza Bianca and cut it into rectangles. Then cut each rectangle through the side to open it up like a book. Layer mortadella, prosciutto cotto, fresh mozzarella, or your favorite fillings on the bottom half and then put on the top half. For a twist on this idea using focaccia dough, see Focaccina (this page).
If you’re new to making pizza, give this one a shot. It’s baked in a pan, so you don’t have to handle the dough much, and it bakes in a 500°F (260°C) oven, about the same temperature used for pizza al taglio in Rome. It’s pretty foolproof, and the dough puffs up like focaccia with a light, airy crumb. The truth is, I’ve fallen in love with this dough and this pizza because it’s so easy and delicious.
MAKES 1 HALF-SHEET PAN PIZZA (18 BY 13 INCHES/45 BY 33 CM)
920 grams (2 pounds) Al Taglio Dough at 80% Hydration (this page)
Olive oil, for the pan
Flour, for dusting
Pizza Al Taglio Toppings (this page)
Let the dough warm up at room temperature for at least 1 hour or up to 3 hours. As it warms up, the dough will relax and become easier to shape.
Set a baking steel or stone on the center rack of the oven and heat the oven to 500°F (260°C) for 45 minutes. Oil a half-sheet pan (18 by 13 inches/45 by 33 cm).
TO SHAPE THE DOUGH: Generously flour a work surface and your hands. Dig the dough from the bowl to the floured surface with your hands or a dough scraper, inverting the bowl to ease out the dough. The dough will be very soft and bubbly, and you want it to stay that way. Use your fingers to gently press the dough from the outside edge toward the center, going all the way around the edge first, working your way toward the center. The final dough shape will be rectangle, so press the dough into that shape. This shaping technique is more pressing and dimpling than it is pulling and stretching the dough. Keep pressing and dimpling the dough from the outside edge toward the center until the dough is completely dimpled out to a rectangle roughly the size of the half-sheet pan. Add more flour to your hands as necessary. The dough is soft and pliable, so the whole process takes only 5 minutes or so.
Carefully slip your hands beneath the dough, separating them to opposite ends of the dough, and then quickly lift and move the dough onto the oiled pan. Press and dimple the dough to fit into the pan all the way to the edges. Then pat it gently or stretch it here and there to eliminate most of the dimples and make an even layer of dough.
Add your toppings and get them to within ¼ inch (0.6 cm) of the outside edges. You don’t really want much of a rim in this style of pizza.
TO BAKE THE PIZZA: Bake for 10 minutes. Add any other toppings you may need to add and then rotate the pan and bake until the pizza is puffed and golden brown on the edges, about 10 minutes more.
Remove the pizza from the oven and add any finishing ingredients. Then cut the pizza into pieces with scissors, the traditional Roman way. Cutting on the pan with a pizza wheel or knife would scar the pan and dull your blade. You could slide the whole pizza onto a large cutting board and wheel-cut it there. Either way, out of a half-sheet pan, I like to get 12 rectangular pieces. To do that, cut the entire pizza in half lengthwise and then make 6 crosswise cuts.
Pizza is always best served fresh and hot, but you can parbake this pizza up to 8 hours ahead of time. Just bake it without any toppings for the first 10 minutes. Let it cool, then cover and chill the pizza for up to 8 hours. When ready to finish baking it, say, for a pizza party that night, just set out your toppings so everyone can make their own pizza. Cut rectangular sections of the parbaked dough with scissors and let the pizza sit at room temperature for 30 to 45 minutes. Have each person top a section of the parbaked pizza and then finish baking the pieces of pizza in the pan for the final 10 minutes or so.
PIZZA
TOPPINGS
TOMATO, MOZZARELLA, AND BASIL
What can I say? Tomato, mozzarella, and basil work well on any pizza. Margherita is like the diamond stud earring of pizzas: timeless, classic, and universally loved. Fresh tomatoes and mozzarella di bufala make it even more special. Just be sure to put the bufala on the pizza after it comes out of the oven. With great ingredients and great technique, you just can’t go wrong.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 HALF-SHEET PAN PIZZA (18 BY 13 INCHES/45 BY 33 CM)
1½ pounds (680 g) fresh tomatoes, cored and sliced ¼ inch (0.6 cm) thick
¼ cup (21 g) packed fresh basil leaves
12 ounces (340 g) buffalo mozzarella cheese, torn in bits
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Flake salt, such as Maldon
Freshly ground black pepper
Arrange the tomatoes over the dough, overlapping them slightly. Bake for 10 minutes and then rotate the pan and bake until puffed and golden brown on the edges, about 10 minutes more.
Remove the pizza from the oven and immediately scatter on the basil and mozzarella. Let the pizza sit in the pan until the cheese melts, about 5 minutes. Drizzle on some olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Cut with scissors.
PECORINO CHEESE AND BLACK PEPPER
Traditional Roman cacio e pepe is just Pecorino cheese and black pepper. This version takes some liberties by adding Parmesan and mozzarella into the mix. If you really want to go nuts, serve it with Marinara Sauce (this page) on the side for dipping.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 HALF-SHEET PAN PIZZA (18 BY 13 INCHES/45 BY 33 CM)
2¾ cups (284 g) grated Pecorino Romano cheese
10 ounces (284 g) shredded whole-milk mozzarella cheese
¾ cup (71 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 tablespoon (7 g) freshly ground black pepper
Mix all the cheeses together and scatter half of the mixture over the dough in an even layer. Bake for 10 minutes and then scatter on the remaining half of the cheese mixture. Return to the oven and bake until puffed and golden brown on the edges, about 10 minutes more. Remove the pizza from the oven and grind some pepper over the top. Cut with scissors.
SPECK WITH RADICCHIO, APPLES, AND GORGONZOLA
Speck is cold-smoked prosciutto from Italy’s northern Alto Adige region. It has a strong juniper aroma, but you could use prosciutto di Parma if you want. It just won’t taste like smoke and juniper. Try pairing this pizza with a Negroni in the fall.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 HALF-SHEET PAN PIZZA (18 BY 13 INCHES/45 BY 33 CM)
12 ounces (340 g) radicchio or Belgian endive
4 teaspoons (20 ml) honey
2 tablespoons (30 ml) white balsamic vinegar
⅓ cup (79 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus some for drizzling
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups (170 g) cored and thinly sliced apples, with peel
9½ ounces (269 g) crumbled gorgonzola
¼ cup (15 g) packed small fresh parsley leaves
5 ounces (142 g) thinly sliced speck
Slice the radicchio very thin, about ⅛ to ¼ inch (0.3 to 0.6 cm) thick. Whisk together the honey, 1½ tablespoons of the vinegar, and ¼ cup of the oil in a small bowl. Add the radicchio and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper until it tastes good to you.
Arrange the radicchio over the dough in an even layer. Bake for 10 minutes and then rotate pan and bake until puffed and golden brown on the edges, about 10 minutes more.
Meanwhile, toss the apples with the gorgonzola, parsley, remaining 1½ tablespoons olive oil, and remaining ½ tablespoon vinegar. Season with salt and pepper until it tastes good to you.
Remove the pizza from the oven and top with the apple-gorgonzola mixture and speck. Drizzle with a little oil and then cut with scissors.
SWEET CORN, SHISHITO PEPPERS, AND BUFFALO MOZZARELLA
When sweet corn is in season, I love it on pizza. But that is the key. The corn must be superfresh. With roasted whole green shishito peppers, this pizza is a looker, too. Creamy mozzarella di bufala takes it over the top.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 HALF-SHEET PAN PIZZA (18 BY 13 INCHES/45 BY 33 CM)
4 large ears fresh corn on the cob
12 ounces (340 g) shishito peppers, stems removed
3 tablespoons (44 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus some for drizzling
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
¾ cup (71 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
9½ oz (269 g) buffalo mozzarella cheese, torn in bits
7 tablespoons (21 g) chopped fresh chives
Preheat the oven to 550°F (288°C) or 500°F (260°C) with convection on if you have it.
Shuck the corn and place the cobs on a large baking sheet. Place the whole peppers on another baking sheet. Drizzle the oil over everything and then rub the oil into the corn and peppers until they are completely coated. Season the corn and peppers all over with salt and pepper, making sure the peppers are in a single layer.
Roast the corn and peppers on the baking sheets until lightly charred in spots, turning a few times for even cooking. The peppers will be done first, 6 to 8 minutes total, and the corn next, about 10 to 15 minutes total. Leave the peppers whole. Remove the roasted corn to a cutting board and let cool. When cool enough to handle, cut the kernels from the cobs with a sharp knife.
Scatter the corn kernels and peppers evenly over the dough and then scatter on the Parmigiano. Bake for 10 minutes and then rotate the pan and bake until puffed and golden brown on the edges, about 10 minutes more.
Remove the pizza from the oven and immediately top with the mozzarella and chives. Let stand until the mozzarella melts a bit. Cut with scissors.
FENNEL SAUSAGE AND ROASTED PEPPERS
Savory sausage and sweet roasted peppers were made for each other. A little ground fennel seed and fresh rosemary make those two ingredients even happier together.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 HALF-SHEET PAN PIZZA (18 BY 13 INCHES/45 BY 33 CM)
3 bell peppers (red, yellow, and green), about 1½ pounds (680 g) total
3 tablespoons (44 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus some for drizzling
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2½ cups (591 ml) Marinara Sauce (this page)
8 ounces (227 g) loose, raw, Italian pork fennel sausage, torn in bits
9½ ounces (269 g) shredded whole-milk mozzarella cheese
Leaves from 2 large sprigs fresh rosemary
½ teaspoon (1.5 g) ground fennel seed
Preheat the broiler and position a rack 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) below it.
Rub the bell peppers with oil on a rimmed baking sheet and then broil the peppers on the baking sheet until the skins are bubbly and charred in spots, 10 to 15 minutes, turning a few times.
Transfer the peppers to a bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let steam until they are cool enough to handle, 10 to 15 minutes. Peel off the skins with your fingers and drain off any liquid. Pull out and remove the cores and seeds and then cut the peppers lengthwise into long ½-inch (1.3 cm)-wide strips. Season the strips with salt and pepper. You’ll have 2½ to 3 cups roasted peppers.
Spread the sauce evenly over the dough. Top with small bits of sausage and the roasted peppers in an even layer. Drizzle some oil over the top and grind on some more pepper.
Bake for 10 minutes and then remove the pan from the oven and scatter on the mozzarella. Return to the oven and bake until puffed and golden brown on the edges, about 10 minutes more.
Remove the pizza from the oven and scatter on the rosemary and fennel seed. Cut with scissors.
PROSCIUTTO AND ARUGULA
For this pizza, I like to warm up the prosciutto and arugula for a minute in the oven. It crisps up the prosciutto and wilts the arugula, giving the pizza a really interesting texture. Try this one alongside the Naples Crudo (this page) and compare notes.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 HALF-SHEET PAN PIZZA (18 BY 13 INCHES/45 BY 33 CM)
2¼ cups (532 ml) Marinara Sauce (this page)
8 ounces (227 g) shredded whole-milk mozzarella cheese
2⅓ cups (71 g) packed arugula leaves
5 ounces (142 g) thinly sliced prosciutto
2 tablespoons (30 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Spread the sauce evenly over the dough. Bake for 10 minutes and then rotate the pan and bake until puffed and lightly browned on the edges, another 8 to 9 minutes.
Remove the pizza from the oven and scatter on the mozzarella, arugula, prosciutto, and oil. Return to the oven just until the arugula wilts and the prosciutto begins to crisp up, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the oven and cut with scissors.
ANCHOVIES AND PECORINO CHEESE
I love the simplicity of Roman flavors. Anchovies and pecorino—boom! You don’t need anything else except maybe a little olive oil and parsley to top it off. For an interesting look, use a mix of anchovy fillets…white and dark, oil-packed and salted.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 HALF-SHEET PAN PIZZA (18 BY 13 INCHES/45 BY 33 CM)
About ⅓ cup (79 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
One 12-ounce (340 g) chunk Pecorino Romano cheese
12 ounces (340 g) anchovy fillets
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons (8 g) chopped fresh parsley
Drizzle about ¼ cup oil all over the dough. Use a handheld mandoline or vegetable peeler to shave thin pieces of Pecorino over the dough until it is completely covered, except for about ¼ inch (0.6 cm) all around the edge. Use about half of the total amount of Pecorino.
Bake for 10 minutes and then rotate the pan and bake until puffed and golden brown on the edges, about 10 minutes more.
Remove the pizza from the oven and immediately grate the remaining Pecorino over the top. Cut with scissors and then arrange the anchovies on each piece. Finish with another drizzle of olive oil, pepper, and parsley.
If you use whole salted anchovies, fillet them by rinsing off the salt under cold running water. Pull off the dorsal fin and reach a fingertip into the seam under the removed fin to split the fish in two. Grab the tail and use it to lift the backbone away from the body. Run your fingers along the inside of each fillet to remove any more tiny bones, rinsing the fillets under the water. Pat dry before using.
BUTTERNUT SQUASH WITH CRISPY SAGE AND TALEGGIO
There are so many ways to use squash. When you put raw slices of butternut squash on raw dough with some butter, sage, and Parmigiano, the squash bakes right into the pizza. A little Taleggio cheese melted over the top sends it home. If you don’t have butternut squash, use sweet potato instead.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 HALF-SHEET PAN PIZZA (18 BY 13 INCHES/45 BY 33 CM)
15 ounces (425 g) peeled and very thinly sliced butternut squash (about ¼ of a medium-size squash)
3 tablespoons (43 g) butter
¼ cup (21 g) small fresh sage leaves (or chopped if large)
⅔ cup (67 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
8 ounces (227 g) sliced Taleggio cheese
Freshly ground black pepper
It’s easiest to cut off a chunk of squash, peel it with a sharp Y-shaped vegetable peeler, then slice the squash into superthin rounds on a mandoline. You could also use a knife, but each slice should be no more than ⅛ inch (0.3 cm) thick.
Spread the squash evenly over the dough, overlapping the slices to fit. Top with bits of butter, sage, and Parmigiano in an even layer. Bake for 10 minutes and then rotate the pan and bake until puffed and golden brown on the edges, about 10 minutes more.
Remove the pizza from the oven and immediately top with the Taleggio and several grindings of pepper. Let stand until the Taleggio melts a bit. Cut with scissors.
PEPPERONI AND TOMATO SAUCE
This pizza reminds me of a big old-school Sicilian pepperoni pie—only better! It’s a little different from the Naples-style pepperoni topping because we use hand-crushed marinara sauce and shredded mozzarella instead of blended pizza sauce and fresh mozzarella.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 HALF-SHEET PAN PIZZA (18 BY 13 INCHES/45 BY 33 CM)
2¼ cups (532 ml) Marinara Sauce (this page)
13 ounces (369 g) shredded whole-milk mozzarella cheese
8 ounces (227 g) thinly sliced pepperoni
1 tablespoon (15 ml) extra-virgin olive oil
Spread the sauce evenly over the dough. Scatter on the mozzarella and then the pepperoni. Bake for 10 minutes and then rotate the pan and bake until the pepperoni starts to crisp up and the pizza is puffed and golden brown on the edges, about 10 minutes more.
Remove the pizza from the oven and drizzle with a little oil. Cut with scissors.
DELICATA SQUASH WITH GUANCIALE
Shaped like zucchini, delicata squash are available in the fall, and they taste like candy! You could also use spaghetti squash or sweet dumpling, a more squat shape. Either way, you can eat these squash skins and all. I like them sautéed with cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, and honey until they are practically charred.
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 HALF-SHEET PAN PIZZA (18 BY 13 INCHES/45 BY 33 CM)
3 delicata squash (about 3½ lbs/1.6 kg)
3 tablespoons (28 g) unsalted butter
3 tablespoons (44 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus some for drizzling
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
⅛ teaspoon (0.3 g) ground cinnamon
⅛ teaspoon (0.3 g) ground nutmeg
⅛ teaspoon (0.3 g) ground ginger
2 tablespoons (30 ml) honey
13 ounces (369 g) shredded whole-milk mozzarella cheese
6 ounces (170 g) chopped guanciale, pancetta, or other cured bacon
Leaves from 5 sprigs fresh oregano
Cut each squash in half lengthwise and then scrape out and discard the seeds. Slice the squash crosswise into half-moons about ¼ inch (0.6 cm) thick, leaving on the skin.
Melt the butter and oil in two large sauté pans over medium-high heat (you want both butter and olive oil in each pan). When hot and bubbly, divide the squash between the pans, toss to coat, and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, tossing occasionally. Season with salt and pepper and then add the cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger. Add the honey, tossing to coat the squash, and cook until the squash begins to caramelize, a minute or so, trying to keep the squash in a single layer. Add a splash of water if necessary to loosen the squash from the pan and continue cooking until the squash is tender and nicely caramelized, adding a little more water as needed, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Scatter the cheese and guanciale evenly over the dough. Bake for 10 minutes and then rotate the pan and bake until puffed and golden brown on the edges, about 10 minutes more.
Remove the pizza from the oven and top with the squash in an even layer. Scatter on the oregano and drizzle with olive oil. Cut with scissors.
POTATO AND MOZZARELLA
You could use fingerlings here, but I prefer russet potatoes. They crisp up better in the oven. Just make sure you put olive oil all over the potatoes so they get nice and brown. You’ll be happy you did!
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 HALF-SHEET PAN PIZZA (18 BY 13 INCHES/45 BY 33 CM)
2 russet potatoes with skins (about 1½ lbs/680 g)
¼ cup (59 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus some for drizzling
2 tablespoons (5.5 g) coarsely chopped fresh rosemary
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
13 ounces (369 g) shredded whole-milk mozzarella cheese
Put the potatoes in a medium saucepan and cover with 1 inch (2.5 cm) of water. Cover the pan, bring to a boil over high heat, and then boil until a knife slides in and out of the potatoes easily, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove the potatoes from the water and let cool. When cool enough to handle, peel off and discard the skins.
Put the potatoes in a bowl and break them up into bite-size chunks with your hands. Stir in the oil and rosemary and season generously with salt and pepper.
Scatter the mozzarella evenly over the dough. Scatter the potato chunks over the cheese and drizzle on a little more oil to make sure they will crisp up nicely. Bake for 10 minutes and then rotate the pan and bake until puffed and golden brown on the edges, about 10 minutes more.
Remove the pizza from the oven and finish with a little more oil, salt, and pepper. Cut with scissors.
CAULIFLOWER AND CACIOCAVALLO CHEESE
If you like roasted cauliflower, you’ll love this pizza. It’s topped with a lightly dressed endive salad for fresh crunch. For something a little different, you can make a kale salad instead. Pistachios and raisins in that version add some amazing texture (see the Option and the photo).
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 HALF-SHEET PAN PIZZA (18 BY 13 INCHES/45 BY 33 CM)
1 pound (454 g) small cauliflower florets
¼ cup (59 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus some for escarole
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ head escarole or curly endive, rinsed
½ teaspoon (2.5 ml) red wine vinegar
11 ounces (312 g) grated caciocavallo cheese
¾ cup (71 g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1¾ teaspoons (3.5 g) red pepper flakes
½ cup (14 g) fresh Italian parsley, chopped
Preheat the oven to 500°F (260°C). If you have a whole head of cauliflower, turn it upside down and trim the florets from the core, going all around the core. Repeat with any large florets so you’re left with 1 pound of small florets.
Rub the cauliflower all over with olive oil and then season with the salt and pepper. Roast on a baking sheet until tender, 10 to 12 minutes.
Meanwhile, cut the escarole lengthwise into strips. Toss with a little olive oil and the vinegar. Mix together the caciocavallo and Parmigiano.
Scatter the roasted cauliflower and cheese mixture over the dough and then season with black pepper. Bake for 10 minutes and then rotate the pan and bake until puffed and golden brown on the edges, about 10 minutes more.
Remove the pizza from the oven and scatter on the pepper flakes and parsley. Cut with scissors and top with the escarole.
SHAVED CAULIFLOWER AL TAGLIO: Shave the cauliflower paper thin on a mandoline—even an inexpensive handheld one. Lay three-fourths of the shaved cauliflower evenly on the dough and drizzle with oil, salt, and pepper. Then scatter on the cheeses. Bake the pizza and skip the escarole. Instead, while the pizza bakes, toss 4 cups (120 g) baby kale leaves with the remaining one-fourth of the shaved cauliflower, ½ cup (75 g) chopped pistachios, ⅓ cup (50 g) golden raisins, 3 tablespoons (44 ml) olive oil, 2 teaspoons (10 ml) sherry vinegar, salt, and pepper. When the pizza is finished baking, cut it with scissors and scatter on the kale mixture.
