INTRODUCTION

It is easy to find Ocean Beach, a neighborhood of San Diego, California. Just travel west on Interstate 8 until it dead-ends at the Pacific Ocean and turn left. Once past the entryway sign, you’ll find cute little beach cottages, a main street lined with palm trees, the longest concrete municipal fishing pier on the West Coast, rugged sandstone cliffs, tide pools, a surfing and bathing beach, and many happy people going about their day.

Although situated within the boundaries of a major city, Ocean Beach has the look and feel of a small beach town. Its main business district is only three blocks long, many of the stores are locally owned, and people out for a walk just about always bump into someone they know. Part of this small town feeling comes from being somewhat geographically isolated. Ocean Beach is hemmed in by the Pacific Ocean on the west, the San Diego River on the north, and the steep hills of Point Loma on the east. It is an out-of-the-way place that you do not pass through on your way to other parts of town. Arriving in Ocean Beach is intentional (unless you got in the wrong lane on the freeway).

Despite its seeming remoteness, Ocean Beach has long been a favorite spot to visit. The first to walk its beaches were the native Kumeyaay, who traveled there annually as part of their food gathering migration. (This particular beach was prized for its abundance of seafood.) With the arrival of colonizers and settlers—the Spanish in 1769 and the Americans in 1848—more people came to know Ocean Beach as a place of beauty and bounty that was ideal for a day trip. By the 1870s, it was a popular picnicking and camping spot for city folk, despite their having to endure a long wagon ride through mud flats to get there. It was close to both Old Town (site of the first European settlement in California in 1769) and New Town (downtown San Diego, founded in 1851).

It was not until the San Diego boom year of 1887 that William Carlson and Frank Higgins subdivided Ocean Beach and began selling lots so people could live, rather than camp, there. This was also the year that Ocean Beach got its name, having earlier been called Mussel Beds. The trend of the era was to develop beaches into seaside resorts, and in Ocean Beach, the streets were even given resort names such as Saratoga, Niagara, and Cape May. Carlson and Higgins took their vision a step further—they built a resort-style hotel (a mini Hotel del Coronado) overlooking the sea. Sales were brisk at first, but San Diego suffered an economic downturn in 1888, and building came to a standstill. Banks failed, properties were abandoned, and Ocean Beach went back to being primarily a day-trip destination. It remained sparsely populated until 1909, when D.C. Collier, whose real estate company owned most of northern Ocean Beach, brought in city water, improved roads, put in sidewalks, planted trees, and built a streetcar line to connect the beach with downtown San Diego. Within a year, Ocean Beach had 100 homes, although many of these were built as second homes or rental cottages. Gradually, new dwellings were more likely to be for middle-class year-round residents.

Many of the early businesses catered to tourists, and Ocean Beach became the place to go on weekends. Wonderland, Ocean Beach’s amusement park, drew crowds of thousands to the beach during its short life span (1913–1915), and dance halls and indoor saltwater plunges attracted many others. In the mid-1920s, however, much of the tourism moved to Mission Beach, which by then had its own amusement park and was also connected to downtown by streetcar. Ocean Beach began the shift from a seasonal tourist town to a family-oriented community, and the focus changed to providing goods and services for residents, not visitors. A strong community spirit began to evolve, one that has survived to the present day.

Ocean Beach has maintained its historic beach-town look in large part due to the efforts of its citizens to revitalize, rather than redevelop, the community. While many commercial buildings built in the 1910s and 1920s remain in the business district, they have been repurposed to meet the needs and likes of today’s residents. Electing a planning group, adopting a master plan, and passing a 30-foot height limit for buildings have helped to avoid dramatic change in Ocean Beach. Residents have taken an active role in the evolution of their community and are willing to work together to preserve its unique character, including its historic homes. Ocean Beach has eclectic architecture, but it is best known for its beach cottages, most of which were built prior to 1932. Many are preserved as part of the Ocean Beach Cottage Emerging Historical District, formed in 2000.

Residents of this relaxed and casual place refer to their community simply as “O.B.” and call themselves “OBceans” (sometimes spelled “Obecians”). Words used by outsiders to describe Ocean Beach include laid-back, funky, quirky, and unique. Perhaps a popular license plate holder says it best: “Ocean Beach: An attitude, not an address.” Helping to keep this sense of place strong are long-held Ocean Beach traditions, which include a Christmas parade, a kite festival in March, a street fair in June, and Fourth of July fireworks off the pier, all undertaken with a cohesive community spirit.

Visitors still flock to Ocean Beach, but few attractions have been created strictly for them. Mostly, they come to eat and play at the same places OBceans do. One of the main lures, of course, is the Pacific Ocean with its swimming and surfing opportunities. In 1923, a visitor to Ocean Beach wrote a poem about its many charms, which included these lines:

Ocean Beach, the thought’s alluring,
When we’re city heat enduring;
Oh, to bathe where breakers high,
Round and o’er us swish and fly,
Then recede while on the sand,
Breathless, dripping, cool we stand.

Although the bulk of this book focuses on the history of Ocean Beach through the 1940s, the story does not stop there. The final chapter presents trivia spanning all decades of Ocean Beach’s evolution, giving a glimpse of the more recent history of this laid-back, funky, quirky, and unique community.