Between Rue de Grenelle and the River, East of Avenue Bosquet
Between Rue de Grenelle and the River, West of Avenue Bosquet
In the Jewish Quarter, Rue des Rosiers
Map: Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden
Between the Panthéon and the Cluny Museum
Map: Hotel & Restaurants near Rue Mouffetard
On and near St. Germain-des-Prés
The Parisian eating scene is kept at a rolling boil. Entire books (and lives) are dedicated to the subject. Paris is France’s wine-and-cuisine melting pot. There is no “Parisian cuisine” to speak of (only French onion soup is truly Parisian), but it draws from the best of France. Paris could hold a gourmet Olympics and import nothing.
My restaurant recommendations are centered on the same great neighborhoods listed in the Sleeping in Paris chapter; you can come home exhausted after a busy day of sightseeing and find a good selection of eateries right around the corner. And evening is a fine time to explore any of these delightful neighborhoods, even if you’re sleeping elsewhere. Serious eaters looking for even more suggestions should consult the always-appetizing ParisByMouth.com, an eating-and-drinking guide to Paris.
To save piles of euros, consider a picnic. Tasty takeout dishes are available at charcuteries. Bakeries often have a selection of fresh sandwiches to go, just right for a light lunch, and can generally heat them up on request.
Or stop at a café for lunch. Cafés and brasseries are happy to serve a plat du jour (plate of the day) or a chef-like salad day or night. Try eating your big meal at lunch, when many fine restaurants offer their dinnertime fixed-price menus at a reduced price.
Linger longer over dinner. Many restaurants offer à la carte only; others have set-price menus from about €26 to €40—good values if you want that much food. To maximize your experience, it’s fun and fine to share. (You can even request a small extra plate.) In most cases, the few extra euros for the more expensive menu option open up a variety of better choices. Remember that a service charge is included in the prices (so little or no tipping is expected—see here of the Practicalities chapter for advice).
Many restaurants close Sunday and/or Monday. Most open for dinner around 19:00, though a few serve “nonstop” all day. Last seating is usually at about 22:00. Eat early with tourists or late with locals—restaurants that are popular with locals get crowded after 21:00.
If you arrive without a reservation, see if they have a few stools at the bar or counter. Waiters typically say “we’re full” without offering this option, but dining with a view of the kitchen—and with the locals who just dropped by for a drink—can add to the experience.
If a restaurant is open for lunch and doesn’t serve continuously, the hours are generally 12:00-14:30 (last orders at about 13:30). If you want to eat in the late afternoon, when many restaurants are closed, pop in to a brasserie or café. At any eatery, before choosing a seat outside, remember that smokers love (and are welcome at) outdoor tables.
I rank eateries from $ budget to $$$$ splurge. For more advice on eating in Paris, including restaurant pricing; dining in restaurants, cafés, and brasseries; getting takeout and assembling a picnic; and a rundown of French cuisine, see the “Eating” section of the Practicalities chapter.
The Rue Cler neighborhood caters to its residents. Its eateries, while not destination places, have an intimate charm. I’ve provided a full range of choices—from cozy ma-and-pa diners to small and trendy boutique restaurants to classic, big, boisterous bistros.
Consider starting your evening with a glass of wine at Cave Vino Sapiens, a laid-back wine shop-meets-wine bar with easygoing service and well-priced wines by the glass. Order from the rear counter (add €4/€9 corkage to buy a half or full bottle), then choose among the seats scattered inside or sit at one of the barrel tables outside (daily, +33 1 02 46 16, 145 Rue St. Dominique).
(Mo: Ecole Militaire)
$ Café du Marché boasts the best seats on Rue Cler. The owner’s philosophy is “brasserie on speed”—crank out good-enough food at fair prices to appreciative locals and savvy tourists. It’s high-energy, with young waiters who barely have time to smile...très Parisian. This place works well if you don’t mind dining on average-quality cuisine with a lot of commotion (daily, serves continuously, no reservations, often packed after 19:00, at the corner of Rue Cler and Rue du Champ de Mars, 38 Rue Cler, +33 1 47 05 51 27).
$ L’Eclair, a few doors down from Café du Marché, is a bar-meets-bistro with a limited but top-quality menu, a trendy vibe, and terrific seating amid the Rue Cler market action (daily until late, 32 Rue Cler, +33 1 44 18 09 04).
$ Marzo draws lots of locals for wood-fired pizza and antipasto at good prices. It’s bright, lively, and a classy place to enjoy Italian fare (daily, 1 Rue du Champs de Mars, +33 1 40 62 90 95).
$ Le Petit Cler is an adorable and popular little bistro with long leather booths, a vintage interior, tight ranks of tiny and cramped tables—indoors and out—and simple, inexpensive plats, omelets, and soups. Eating (or just drinking) outside here with a view of Rue Cler can be marvelous (daily, arrive early or call in advance; delicious pots de crème and good breakfasts as well; 29 Rue Cler, +33 1 45 50 17 50).
$$ Café Roussillon offers a rustic, pub-like ambience with food that works well for families. You’ll find hearty hamburgers, salads, daily specials, and easygoing waiters (daily, serves nonstop from lunch until late, indoor seating only, corner of Rue de Grenelle and Rue Cler, +33 1 45 51 47 53). While less charming than other spots, it’s more likely to have a table available.
$$$ Le Florimond is fun for a special occasion. Locals come for classic French cuisine at fair prices. Friendly Laurent, whose playful ties change daily, gracefully serves one small room of tables and loves to give suggestions. Pascal, his chef of many years, produces particularly tasty stuffed cabbage that can feed two and confit de canard. The house wine is excellent (closed Sat-Sun, reservations smart, 19 Avenue de la Motte-Picquet, +33 1 45 55 40 38, www.leflorimond.com).
$$$ Bistrot Belhara delivers a vintage French dining experience in an intimate space. Chef-owner Thierry cooks up a blend of inventive and classic dishes and offers a tasty menu. Earnest and helpful Frédéric runs the front of the house with a smile (closed Sun-Mon, reservations smart, a block off Rue Cler at 23 Rue Duvivier, +33 1 45 51 41 77, www.bistrotbelhara.com).
(Mo: Ecole Militaire)
$$ Le Septième Vin is a cozy and welcoming bistro. Hervé cooks while wife Stéphanie serves delicious traditional cuisine at good prices in a romantic and very Parisian setting (closed Sun, the confit de canard and dorade are memorable, 68 Avenue Bosquet, +33 1 45 51 15 97).
$$ Café le Bosquet is a contemporary Parisian brasserie facing a busy street where you’ll dine for a decent price inside or outside on a broad sidewalk. Come here for standard café fare—salad, French onion soup, steak-frites, or a plat du jour. Lanky owner “Jeff” offers three-course meals and plats (serves nonstop, closed Sun, corner of Rue du Champ de Mars at 46 Avenue Bosquet, +33 1 45 51 38 13, www.bosquetparis.com).
$$ La Terrasse du 7ème is a sprawling, happening café with grand outdoor seating and a living room-like interior with comfy love seats. It overlooks a busy intersection with a constant parade of people and traffic. Chairs face the street, as a meal here is like dinner theater—and the show is slice-of-life Paris (nonstop service—and parade of pedestrians—daily until late; good salades, French onion soup, and foie gras; 2 Place de L’Ecole Militaire, +33 1 45 55 00 02).
(Mo: La Tour-Maubourg)
$$ Rosemarie is worth the longer walk to lose the tourists and dine very well on traditional cuisine in a pleasant setting at good prices. Philippe—a refugee from a more famous restaurant—carefully prepares your meal while his charming wife Nina serves (closed Sat-Sun, 149 Rue de l’Université, +33 1 45 51 03 71).
$$ Bistrot Chez France is a simple place lined with red-velvet booths where the focus is on food, not charming ambience. You must order from the two- or three-course menu. Sit back and trust Régis to manage your meal (closed Sun, good choices of classic French cuisine, well-priced and accessible wine options, 9 Rue Amelie, +33 1 40 67 96 54).
$$$ Thoumieux is the neighborhood’s grand brasserie, with a showy interior lined with red velvet chairs and decked with chandeliers. Come here for a gourmet experience with waiters who will fuss over you. Because it’s popular with locals, it’s quiet until 20:00 (daily, 79 Rue St. Dominique, +33 01 47 05 49 75).
$$$ Au Petit Tonneau is an endearing French bistro with its original time-warp decor, fleur-de-lis tiled floor, and carefully prepared food from a limited menu. Away from the Rue Cler tourist crush, this place is real, the cuisine is delicious, and the experience—mixing casual with classy—is what you came to France for (closed Mon off-season, good à la carte choices, well-priced wines, 20 Rue Surcouf, +33 1 47 05 09 01, charming owner Arlette at your service).
(Mo: Ecole Militaire unless otherwise noted)
Some of these places line peaceful Rue de l’Exposition (a few blocks west of Rue Cler), allowing you to do a quick survey before sitting down.
$$ Le P’tit Troquet is a petite eatery taking you back to the Paris of the 1920s. Anna serves while hubby José cooks a tasty range of traditional choices. The homey charm of the tight little dining room makes this place a delight (dinner service from 18:30, closed Sun, reservations smart, €40 three-course dinner menu, 28 Rue de l’Exposition, +33 1 47 05 80 39, www.leptittroquet.fr).
$$ Café de Mars is a relaxed place where mellow Pierre features creative cuisine that draws from many countries—and half the menu is vegetarian. With its simple setting and fair prices, it feels more designed for neighbors than tourists. It’s also comfortable for single diners thanks to its welcoming counter (closed Sun-Mon, open from 18:30, 11 Rue Augereau, +33 1 45 50 10 90).
$$ Comptoir de la Traboule, a tiny wine bar with a fun vibe and counter-style seats, serves tasty shareable plates that they’ll happily match with fairly priced wines (daily, 1 bis Rue Augereau, +33 1 43 19 02 08).
$ Le Royal is a little neighborhood fixture offering cheap and simple traditional dishes. This humble place, with prices and decor from another era, comes from an age when cafés sold firewood and served food as an afterthought (lunch and dinner most days, 212 Rue de Grenelle, +33 1 47 53 92 90).
Affordable Italian: Fun and characteristic, $$ Ristorante Gusto Italia serves classic dishes and pizza in tight quarters (daily, two locations—199 Rue de Grenelle and a less-appealing sister across the street, +33 1 45 55 00 43).
(Mo: Ecole Militaire or RER/Train-C: Pont de l’Alma)
A terrific string of restaurants gathers a few short blocks from the Eiffel Tower. Find the western end of Rue St. Dominique between Rue Augereau and Rue de l’Exposition for the restaurants below. Each is distinct, offering a different experience and price range. None is really cheap (except for the crêperie), but each is a good value, delivering top-quality cuisine.
$$$ La Fontaine de Mars, a longtime favorite and neighborhood institution, is charmingly situated on a tiny, jumbled square with tables jammed together for the serious business of eating. Reserve in advance for a table on the ground floor or square, but pass on the upstairs room (daily, superb foie gras and desserts, 129 Rue St. Dominique, +33 1 47 05 46 44, www.fontainedemars.com).
$$$$ Le Violon d’Ingres has earned a Michelin star and makes for a good excuse to dress up and dine finely in Paris. Glass doors open onto a serious but accessible eating scene. Service is formal yet helpful (daily, reservations essential, order à la carte or consider their €170 seven-course tasting menu, €60 lunch menu, 135 Rue St. Dominique, +33 1 45 55 15 05, www.leviolondingres.paris).
$$$ Les Cocottes attracts a crowd of in-the-know Parisians and tourists with its foodie energy and trendy-trad dishes served in cocottes—small cast-iron pots. There’s good outside seating, or sit inside at one of the high tables or the long, inviting bar facing the kitchen action (daily, nonstop service from noon until late, 135 Rue St. Dominique, +33 1 45 50 10 28).
$ Crep’ and Tea is a one-woman show with sweet-as-they-get Fatima serving a creative menu of homemade crêpes in her tidy, shoebox-size room with Tetris seating (daily, 139 Rue St. Dominique, +33 1 45 51 70 78).
Picnics with floodlit views of the Eiffel Tower or along the riverside promenade are très romantique, and Rue Cler is a festival of food just waiting to be celebrated. For an unforgettable picnic dinner, assemble it in no fewer than five shops on Rue Cler. For less character and more efficiency, there are several handy supermarkets with long hours. Carrefour City at the Ecole Militaire Métro is open until midnight. You’ll also find good grocery stores next to the recommended Hôtel la Bourdonnais (Avenue de la Bourdonnais) and Hôtel Relais Bosquet (Rue du Champ de Mars). If a picnic is too much work, delis (such as Traiteur Jeusselin at 37 Rue Cler, open most days until 19:00) sell fine hot meals to go.
This sleepy neighborhood was not made for night owls—with a few notable exceptions. The focal point of before- and after-dinner posing occurs along the broad sidewalk at the intersection of Avenues de la Motte-Picquet and Tourville (Mo: Ecole Militaire). Le Tourville and Café des Officiers gather a sea of outward-facing seats for the important business of people-watching.
La Terrasse du 7ème, across the avenue, has a less pretentious clientele and is often busy until midnight (listed earlier). On Rue Cler, Café du Marché (listed earlier) attracts a Franco-American café crowd until at least midnight, though the younger-in-spirit L’Eclair cocktail café and bistro (noted earlier) rocks it until late. Café Roussillon has a French pubby atmosphere in its bar area at the corner of Rue de Grenelle and Rue Cler.
If it’s a balmy evening, I’d hike down to the riverside and enjoy the bar scene under Pont Alexandre III, where several lively places serve drinks and fun until the wee hours (see the “Make the Scene on the Seine for Dinner” sidebar, earlier).
The trendy Marais is filled with diners enjoying fine food in colorful and atmospheric eateries. The scene—gay, fun, and creative—is competitive and changes all the time. I’ve listed an assortment of places, all handy to recommended hotels, that offer good food at decent prices plus a memorable experience.
(Mo: St-Paul or Bastille)
This square offers Old World Marais elegance, a handful of eateries, and an ideal picnic site until dusk, when the park closes. Strolling around the arcade after dark is more important than dining here—fanciful art galleries alternate with restaurants and cafés. Choose a restaurant that best fits your mood and budget; most have arcade seating and provide big space heaters to make outdoor dining during colder months an option. Also consider just a drink on the square at Café Hugo.
$$ La Place Royale, offering a traditional menu and an exceptional location on the square—with comfortable seating inside or out—is good for a relaxed lunch or dinner. Come here for the setting and snag an outdoor table under the arches. The hearty cuisine is priced well and served nonstop all day, and Arnaud’s lengthy wine list is reasonable. Splitting a large salad and ordering two main courses works well for two diners (daily, reserve ahead to dine outside under the arcade, lunch specials, 2 bis Place des Vosges, +33 1 42 78 58 16).
$ Café Hugo, named for the square’s most famous resident, serves salads and basic café fare with a Parisian energy. The food’s just OK, but the setting’s terrific, with good seating under the arches (daily, 22 Place des Vosges, +33 1 42 72 64 04).
(Mo: Chemin Vert)
$$ Chez Janou, a Provençal bistro, tumbles out of its corner building and fills its broad sidewalk with happy eaters. Don’t let the trendy, youthful crowd and the density of diners intimidate you: It’s relaxed and charming, with helpful and patient service. The curbside tables are inviting, but I’d sit inside (with very tight seating) to immerse myself in the pleasant commotion. The style is French Mediterranean, with an emphasis on vegetables (daily—book ahead or arrive when it opens at 19:00, 2 blocks beyond Place des Vosges at 2 Rue Roger Verlomme, +33 1 42 72 28 41, www.chezjanou.com). They serve 81 varieties of pastis (licorice-flavored liqueur; browse the list above the bar).
$$ Le Petit Marché, popular with tourists and locals, delivers a warm bistro experience inside and out with friendly service and a tasty cuisine that blends French classics with an Asian influence (smart to book a day ahead, daily, 9 Rue du Béarn, +33 1 42 72 06 67, www.lepetitmarche.eu).
(Mo: St-Paul or Pont-Marie)
$ Fabula, a café at the Carnavalet Museum, serves original snacks and drinks in two peaceful courtyards during the day. It transforms into a stylish $$$ restaurant for a timeless dinner from May to September (entrance west of the museum, closed Mon, 23 Rue de Sévigné, +33 1 86 95 10 61).
(Mo: Bastille or St-Paul)
$$$ Brasserie Bofinger, an institution since 1864, specializes in seafood and traditional Alsatian cuisine. Food quality is not what it used to be, but you’ll eat amid one-of-a-kind ambience in elaborately decorated ground-floor rooms reminiscent of the Roaring 1920s. Reserve ahead to dine under the grand 1919 coupole (sous le dôme; “soo luh dohm”) and avoid eating upstairs. If you’ve always wanted one of those pricey picturesque multitiered seafood platters, this is a good place, though the Alsatian dishes are far cheaper (daily, 5 Rue de la Bastille, +33 1 42 72 87 82, www.bofingerparis.com).
$$$ Grande Brasserie, nearby, offers très authentic food in a fine setting. Their traditional French œuf mayonnaise won a world championship in 2023 (daily, 6 Rue de la Bastille, +33 9 75 80 99 72).
$$ Le Temps des Cerises is a warm place with loads of character, a young and lively vibe, tight inside seating, and a couple of outdoor tables. (There are a few more upstairs that I’d avoid.) Come for a glass of wine at the small zinc bar and stay for a very tasty dinner. The caring waiters serve generous portions (daily, reasonable wine list, at the corner of Rue du Petit Musc and Rue de la Cerisaie, 31 Rue de la Cerisaie, +33 1 42 72 08 63).
$ Crêpes and Pizza: Two tiny budget finds are open daily and sit side by side where Rue St. Paul meets Rue Neuve St. Pierre. Both are open daily and have good but limited seating inside and out. Crêpolog dishes out a tasty range of savory and dessert crêpes using fresh batter and offers a good formule with hard cider (Mo: St-Paul, +33 1 43 48 28 34). La Cerise sur la Pizza (“Cherry on the Pizza”) fires up Marseille-style thin crust pizza (eat there or take it to go, Mo: St-Paul, +33 1 42 78 15 59).
(Mo: St-Paul)
$$$ Chez Mademoiselle’s eclectic decor and fun energy recall charming owner Alexia’s previous career as a French comédienne. This local favorite comes with lots of noise, making it good for a fun night out. Dine inside or at a sidewalk table. Ingredients are fresh and prepared simply. Let the easygoing staff share their enthusiasm for the seasonal dishes before you choose (daily from 19:30, good wine list, 16 Rue Charlemagne, +33 1 42 72 14 16).
$$ On Place du Marché Ste. Catherine: This small, romantic square just off Rue St. Antoine is cloaked in extremely Parisian, leafy-square ambience. It feels like the Latin Quarter but classier. On a balmy evening, it’s a neighborhood favorite, with a handful of restaurants offering mediocre cuisine (you’re here for the setting). It’s also family-friendly: Most places serve French hamburgers, and kids can dance around the square while parents relax. Survey the options. You’ll find several French bistros with similar features and menus. Le Marché is a good choice.
$$ Les Bougresses, just off the charming square, offers less romance but far more taste and a fine three-course menu for under €30. Stepping inside this cozy place, you feel like you’ve joined a food lovers’ party with owners Mika and Constantin overseeing the fun (closed Mon, open from 18:30, inside seating only, 6 Rue de Jarente, +33 1 48 87 71 21).
(Mo: St-Paul or Hôtel de Ville)
$$ Chez Marianne is a neighborhood fixture that serves tasty Jewish cuisine in a fun atmosphere with Parisian élan. Choose an indoor spot with a cluttered wine shop/deli feeling, or sit outside. You’ll select from a list of hot and cold zakouskis (like Jewish tapas or mezes) to assemble your plat. It’s Jewish “diaspora cuisine”—from Israel to Iberia to Poland. Vegetarians will find great options (long hours daily, takeaway falafel sandwiches, 2 Rue des Hospitalières St. Gervais—at the corner with Rue des Rosiers, +33 1 42 72 18 86).
$$ Le Loir dans la Théière (“The Dormouse in the Teapot”—think Alice in Wonderland) is a cozy, mellow teahouse offering a welcoming ambience for tired travelers (laptops and smartphones are not welcome). It’s ideal for lunch but slammed on weekends. They offer a daily assortment of creatively filled quiches and bake an impressive array of homemade desserts that are proudly displayed in the dining room (daily for lunch; dessert only after 15:00, 3 Rue des Rosiers, +33 1 42 72 90 61).
$ Falafel Row is a series of inexpensive joints that line Rue des Rosiers between Rue des Ecouffes and Rue Vieille du Temple. Take a stroll along this short stretch to compare the filling falafel sandwiches and other Jewish dishes, then decide. Takeout service draws a constant crowd (long hours most days, most are closed Fri evening and all day Sat).
(Mo: Hôtel de Ville)
$$ Au Bourguignon du Marais is a dressy wine bar/bistro for Burgundy lovers, where excellent wines (Burgundian only, available by the glass) blend with a good selection of well-designed dishes and efficient service. The œufs en meurette are mouthwatering and the bœuf bourguignon could feed two (daily, pleasing indoor and outdoor seating on a perfect Marais corner, 52 Rue François Miron, +33 1 48 87 15 40).
$$ Les Philosophes has an effervescent Parisian vibe where you can rub elbows with locals and tease the friendly waiters. Read the tiny print on the menu to learn about the owner’s “Real Home Cooking” philosophy. The long corner terrace is terrific (nonstop service from 12:00 until very late; no reservations, arrive early to avoid lines; closed Mon-Tue, 28 Rue Vieille du Temple, +33 1 48 87 49 64).
$ Au Petit Fer à Cheval, serving fairly priced, standard café fare, seems tailor-made for memories. The horseshoe-shaped zinc bar, which feels like a movie set, immerses you in the clatter of the scene. The tight dining room in the rear is Old World adorable—a tobacco-stained Cubist time warp. And the few outdoor tables offer classic café seating that is street-theater perfect (closed Mon-Tue, 30 Rue Vieille du Temple, +33 1 42 72 47 47).
$ L’Ebouillanté is a breezy café, romantically situated near the river on a broad, cobbled pedestrian lane behind a church. With outdoor seating on flimsy chairs and an artsy interior, it’s good for an inexpensive and relaxing tea, snack, or lunch—or dinner on a warm evening. Their bricks—paper-thin, Tunisian-inspired pancakes stuffed with what you’d typically find in an omelet—come with a small salad (closed Mon, a block off the river at 6 Rue des Barres, +33 1 42 74 70 52).
$ BHV Department Store’s fifth-floor cafeteria provides nice views, good prices, and many main courses to choose from plus a salad bar. It’s family-easy (daily 11:00-19:00, hot food served until 16:00, at intersection of Rue du Temple and Rue de la Verrerie, one block from Hôtel de Ville).
(Mo: Filles du Calvaire or Rambuteau)
$$ Breizh Café is worth the hike for some of the best Breton crêpes in Paris (“Breizh” means Brittany). This simple joint serves organic crêpes—both sweet and savory. They talk about cider like a sommelier would talk about wine. Try a sparkling cider, a Breton cola, or my favorite—lait ribot, a buttermilk-like drink in which purists dunk their buckwheat crêpe (daily, serves nonstop until late, reservations highly recommended, 109 Rue Vieille du Temple, +33 1 42 72 13 77, www.breizhcafe.com/le-marais).
Picnic at peaceful Place des Vosges (closes at dusk), Square George Caïn (near the Carnavalet Museum), or on the Ile St. Louis quais. Stretch your euros at the basement supermarket of the Monoprix department store (daily until late—Sun until 19:30, near Place des Vosges on Rue St. Antoine). You’ll find a small grocery open until 22:00 on Ile St. Louis.
Trendy cafés and bars—popular with gay men—cluster on Rue des Archives and Rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie. There’s also a line of bars and cafés providing front-row seats for the buff parade on Rue Vieille du Temple, a block north of Rue de Rivoli—the horseshoe-shaped Au Petit Fer à Cheval bar (see earlier) and the atmospheric La Belle Hortense bookstore/wine bar are focal points of the action. Nearby, Rue des Rosiers bustles with youthful energy, but there are no cafés to observe from. La Perla dishes up imitation Tex-Mex and is stuffed with Parisian millennials in search of the perfect margarita (26 Rue François Myron, +33 1 42 77 59 40).
Le Pick-Clops bar-restaurant is a happy peanuts-and-lots-of-cocktails diner with bright neon, loud colors, and a garish local crowd. It’s perfect for immersing yourself in today’s Marais world—a little boisterous, a little edgy, fun-loving, and easygoing. Sit inside on old-fashioned diner stools or streetside to watch the constant Marais parade (daily, 16 Rue Vieille du Temple, +33 1 40 29 02 18). While mostly a drinking place, it has a tempting, eclectic menu of fun French bar food (burgers, tartines, salads), all seasoned with a happy dollop of Marais character.
More Options: The best scene for hard-core clubbers is the dizzying array of wacky eateries, bars, and dance halls on Rue de Lappe. Just east of the stately Place de la Bastille, it’s one of the wildest nightspots in Paris and not for everyone.
The most enjoyable peaceful evening may be simply mentally donning your floppy “three musketeers” hat and slowly strolling Place des Vosges, window shopping the art galleries.
(Mo: Pont Marie)
This romantic and peaceful neighborhood merits a trip for dinner even if your hotel is elsewhere. Cruise the island’s main street for a variety of options, and after dinner, sample Paris’ favorite ice cream before strolling across to Ile de la Cité to see a floodlit Notre-Dame. These recommended spots—ranging from rowdy to petite, rustic to elegant—line the island’s main drag, Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile (for locations, see the “Marais Restaurants” map, earlier).
$$$ Les Fous de l’Ile is a tasty, lighthearted mash-up of a collector’s haunt, art gallery, and bistro. It’s a fun place to eat bistro fare with gourmet touches for a good price (daily, 33 Rue des Deux Ponts, +33 1 43 25 76 67).
$$ L’Orangerie is an inviting, rustic yet elegant place with soft lighting, comfortable spacious seating, and a hushed ambience. The cuisine blends traditional with modern touches; good value two- or three-course menus (closed Mon, 28 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 85 15 21 31).
$ Auberge de la Reine Blanche—woodsy, cozy, and tight—welcomes diners willing to rub elbows with their neighbors. Earnest owner Michel offers basic French cuisine at reasonable prices. Along with like-mother-made-it comfort food, he serves good dinner salads (dinner only, closed Mon, 30 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 85 15 21 30).
$ Café Med Crêperie, near the pedestrian bridge to Notre-Dame, is a tiny, cheery place with good-value salads, crêpes, pasta, and several meat dishes (daily, 77 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 43 29 73 17). Two less atmospheric crêperies are just across the street.
Ice Cream Dessert: Half the people strolling Ile St. Louis are licking an ice cream cone because this is the home of the famous les glaces Berthillon (now sold throughout Paris, though still made here on Ile St. Louis). The original Berthillon shop, at 31 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, is marked by the line of salivating customers (closed Mon-Tue). For a less famous but still satisfying treat, the Italian gelato a block away at Amorino Gelati is giving Berthillon competition (daily until late, no line, bigger portions, easier to see what you want, and they offer small tastes—Berthillon doesn’t need to, 47 Rue St. Louis-en-l’Ile, +33 1 44 07 48 08). Having a little of each is not a bad thing.
These two eateries are near Notre-Dame and Sainte-Chapelle on Ile de la Cité.
$$ Les Deux Palais is a venerable bistro with old-school ambience that takes you back to the 1870s. With professional service, decent prices, and a convenient location facing Sainte-Chapelle (across from the exit), it’s handy for lunch or a drink while sightseeing (daily, 3 Boulevard du Palais—see the map on here, +33 1 34 54 20 86).
$$ Au Bougnat delivers traditional cuisine at very fair prices with oodles of character. It’s a short hop from Notre-Dame and where local cops and workers get sandwiches, coffee, and reasonably priced menus (closed Sun, 26 Rue Chanoinesse, +33 1 43 54 50 74).
Sleeping in the Luxembourg neighborhood puts you near many appealing dining and after-hours options. Because my hotels cluster near St. Sulpice Church, the Panthéon, and Rue de Sèvres, I’ve focused my restaurant picks in the same areas. Restaurants around St. Sulpice tend to be boisterous, while those near the Panthéon and Rue de Sèvres are calmer. It’s a short walk from one area to the other.
(Mo: St-Sulpice or St-Germain-des-Près)
Rue des Canettes and Rue Guisarde teem with busy eateries offering a lively selection of lowbrow cuisine at generally affordable prices. It’s hard to recommend one over the next, but it’s a fun neighborhood to browse—offering what many hope to find in the Latin Quarter (but don’t).
Two Rue Guisarde places stand out from the rest for a good meal: $$ Monte Verdi serves dressy Italian cuisine with live piano music and is a fun change from traditional French dining. There are several rooms, each offering a different experience. One is romantic, with cushy seating and the piano close by (book ahead for this room); others offer a “barstools and friends” vibe or cozy seating (closed Sun, 5 Rue Guisarde, +33 1 42 34 55 90, www.lemonteverdi.com).
$$$ Chez Fernand is a solid choice for a great range of classic and beefy bistro fare, with long, tight rows of seating and red-checkered tablecloths. The volume goes up as you go deeper into the restaurant—a high-energy immersion in happy French dining (Tue-Sun dinner, closed Mon, 13 Rue Guisarde, +33 1 43 54 61 47).
On Rue des Canettes you’ll find a down-and-dirty bar, Chez Georges, with a dank cellar for a drink before or after dinner (#11). If you’re feeling bohemian, you could play chess or talk philosophy over a dinner of cold cuts with wine here.
$$$ Ambos serves refined Franco-Venezuelan cuisine in a smart setting with stone and brick walls and an open kitchen. It’s locally popular, so book a day ahead (closed Sat-Sun, 38 Rue Vaugirard, +33 1 43 54 91 39, www.ambos-restaurant.fr).
A block north of Boulevard St. Germain (toward the river), Rue de Buci has a lineup of bars, cafés, and bistros targeted toward a young, trendy clientele. It’s terrific theater for passersby from 18:00 until late. Consider $$ Café de Paris, a classic brasserie with hearty and creative dinner salads (daily, 10 Rue de Buci, +33 1 46 34 84 11).
(Mo: Odéon)
$$$ Brasserie Bouillon Racine is an Art Nouveau carnival of carved wood, stained glass, and old-time lights reflected in beveled mirrors. Come for the convivial space, not the food. It’s like having dinner with Alphonse Mucha and a bunch of tourists. The over-the-top decor and energetic waiters create an inviting atmosphere. Check upstairs before choosing a table. There’s Belgian beer on tap and a fascinating history on the menu (daily, serves nonstop, 3 Rue Racine, +33 1 44 32 15 60).
$$$ La Méditerranée is all about seafood from the south served in a dressy pastel setting...with a similar clientele. The scene and the cuisine are formal yet accessible, and the view of the Odéon is formidable (daily, reservations smart, facing the Odéon at 2 Place de l’Odéon, +33 1 43 26 02 30, www.la-mediterranee.com).
$ Café de l’Odéon, on a square with the venerable theater, is a summer-only place to munch a simple meal with a stylish young crowd (service is outdoors-only in good weather). The menu offers a limited selection of cheese and meat platters at fair prices—you’ll feel like a winner eating light but well in such a Parisian setting (daily in summer, no reservations, good salads, reasonable plats, Place de l’Odéon, +33 7 72 36 69 13).
$$$ Le Comptoir Restaurant is a venerable splurge with a vintage interior where foodies enjoy classic dishes with a modern flair. Reservations are not accepted, but service is nonstop from noon, so arrive early to land a table in this lively and jammed streetside setting (daily, 9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, +33 1 44 27 07 97).
$$ L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre and L’Avant Comptoir de la Mer are two stand-up-only hors d’oeuvres bars sitting next door to the mothership restaurant described above. They serve an array of French-Basque tapas on sleek zinc counters. De la Terre focuses on meats and food from the land, while de la Mer is all about seafood. Each is a long, narrow mosh pit of eaters, with the same formula and experience: illustrated menu cards hanging from the ceilings, loud music, tiny shelves for your drink and food, and a dike-like bar protecting the waitstaff from the commotion (daily, 3 Carrefour de l’Odéon, +33 1 44 27 07 97).
$$ Breizh Café, described earlier in my Marais choices, also serves upscale crêpes a short hop off Boulevard St. Germain. The staff is welcoming, the outside terrace offers a classic perch on a busy street, and the interior has a stone-wall-and-oak-floor warmth. If tables are full, snag a spot at the bar (limited choices, daily, reservations smart, 1 Rue de l’Odéon, +33 1 42 49 34 73, www.breizhcafe.com).
$ Restaurant Polidor is the Parisian equivalent of a beloved neighborhood diner. A fixture here since 1845, it’s prized for its unpretentious quality cooking, lively old-Paris atmosphere, and fair value. Noisy, happy diners sit tightly at shared tables, savoring classic bourgeois plats from every corner of France. The drawers you see at the back on the left? They held napkins for regulars. The back room is quieter and less memorable (daily, reservations smart, 41 Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, +33 1 43 26 95 34, www.polidor.com).
(Mo: Cluny La Sorbonne or RER/Train-B: Luxembourg)
$$$ Les Papilles is worth the walk. You’ll dine surrounded by bottles of wine in a warm, woody bistro and eat what’s offered...and you won’t complain. It’s one menu, no choices, and no regrets. Select your wine from the shelf or ask for advice from the burly, rugby-playing owner, then relax and let the food arrive. Reserve ahead and make sure that you’re OK with what he’s cooking (closed Sun-Mon, 30 Rue Gay-Lussac, +33 1 43 25 20 79, www.lespapillesparis.fr).
$$ Le Soufflot, named after the architect of the Panthéon, delivers dynamite views of the inspiring dome. Dine on café cuisine or just enjoy a drink (16 Rue Soufflot, +33 1 43 26 57 56).
Cafés on Place de la Sorbonne: Several cafés are on an appealing little square surrounding a gurgling fountain and facing Paris’ legendary Sorbonne University—just a block from the Cluny Museum. $$ Café de l’Ecritoire is handy for a simple brasserie lunch with salads, plats du jour, and seating inside and out.
(Mo: Sèvres-Babylone)
$$ Au Sauvignon Café is perfectly positioned for a good lunch or predinner drink and people-watching. The marvelous interior is vintage Paris, with wall-to-ceiling decor and a fine zinc bar (daily, 80 Rue des Saints-Pères, +33 1 45 48 49 02).
$$$ Les Botanistes is an intimate, quietly classy family operation, with Jean-Baptiste serving the limited menu of homemade dishes and mama doing the cooking (closed Sun, 11 Rue Chomel, +33 1 45 49 04 54).
$$ La Petite Chaise, founded in 1680, is Paris’ oldest restaurant (which alone justifies the trip here for me). Offering a good selection of generous, traditional dishes at reasonable prices, this friendly place appeals to those in search of a classic Parisian dining experience that won’t break the bank. Dine in a smaller, characteristic room downstairs or the more elegant upstairs space (good three-course dinner menu, daily, 36 Rue de Grenelle, +33 1 42 22 13 35).
$$ La Casa di Mario offers delicious Italian cuisine served by friendly staff in a tight but adorable dining room where you’ll get to know your neighbor (closed Sun-Mon, 132 Rue du Bac, +33 1 45 48 76 25).
$ Osaba is an unpretentious little deli-like joint serving Basque food amid a cozy ambience; eat upstairs or down (try the Basque burger, good-value wines, closed Sun, 29 Rue St. Placide, tel. +33 1 43 35 57 17).
$ Le Basile is full of young, loud, and happy eaters thrilled to have found a place where drinks are cheap and nothing on the menu costs more than €20 (long hours Mon-Fri, Sat-Sun until 19:00, 34 Rue de Grenelle, +33 1 42 22 59 46).
$$ Le Cherche Midi serves fine Italian cuisine in a fun, lively setting at fair prices—it’s popular, so book this one a few days ahead (daily, 22 Rue du Cherche-Midi, tel. +33 1 45 48 27 44, www.lecherchemidi.fr).
(Mo: Censier Daubenton or Place Monge)
Several blocks behind the Panthéon is an appealing and unpretentious area whose bohemian soul is the Rue Mouffetard. Two thousand years ago, Rue Mouffetard was the principal Roman road south to Italy. Today, this small, meandering street has a split personality. The lower half thrives in the daytime as a pedestrian market street. The upper half sleeps during the day but comes alive after dark with a fun collection of restaurants and bars. A lively Saturday market sprawls along Boulevard Port Royal, just east of the Port Royal Métro stop.
The street is a conveyor belt of comparison-shopping eaters with wall-to-wall budget options (fondue, crêpes, Italian, falafel, and Greek). Come here to sift through the crowds and eat cheaply. This street stays up late and likes to party. For locations, see the “Hotel & Restaurants near Rue Mouffetard” map, above.
The Rue Mouffetard eateries gauntlet begins on top, at thriving Place de la Contrescarpe, and ends below where Rue Mouffetard stops at St. Médard Church. Both ends offer fun cafés where you can watch the action. The upper stretch is pedestrian and touristy; the bottom stretch is purely Parisian. Anywhere between is no-man’s-land for consistent quality. Still, strolling with so many fun-seekers is enjoyable. A five-minute walk from Place de la Contrescarpe are the ruins of a Roman amphitheater, Les arênes de Lutèce, which make for a quiet picnic spot with local kids.
If you’re undecided, my recommendations below are solid choices.
$$ Cave la Bourgogne, a local hangout, has reasonably priced café fare at the bottom of Rue Mouffetard. The outside has picture-perfect tables; the lively interior has heaps of character (daily, 144 Rue Mouffetard, +33 1 47 07 82 80).
$$ Restaurant la Mosquée transports diners to Morocco with its dazzling Arabic ambience and cuisine at fair prices. It’s tucked into the back of the Grande Mosquée de Paris (see the Sights in Paris chapter) and serves tasty baked goods, teas, and even tastier meals—including couscous and tagines (tea room daily 9:00-late, restaurant opens at 11:30, 39 Rue Geoffroy-Saint-Hilaire, +33 1 43 31 38 20).
Montmartre can be hit or miss; the top of the hill is extremely touristy, with mindless mobs following guides to cancan shows. But if you walk a few blocks away, you’ll find a quieter, more authentic meal at one of the places I’ve listed below. For locations, see the map on here.
(Mo: Abbesses or Anvers)
The steps in front of Sacré-Cœur are fun for a picnic with a view, though the spot is jammed with tourists. For a quieter setting, consider the park directly behind the church. Along the touristy main drag (near Place du Tertre and just off it), several piano bars serve mediocre crêpes and overpriced bistro fare but offer great people-watching. The options become less touristy and more tasty as you escape from the top of the hill.
$$$ Le Moulin de la Galette is a fine place to dine chez Renoir under the famous windmill. Along with the stylish decor, there’s well-respected classic French cuisine (daily, 83 Rue Lepic, +33 1 46 06 84 77).
$$$ Le Coq & Fils venerates poultry. The proud chef serves Paris’ best roast chicken, pigeon, or duck—slow cooked for three hours, then roasted and served with tasty fries and terrific desserts. Sharing a whole bird is best. No red meat or vegetarian options (daily, reservations smart, 98 Rue Lepic, +33 1 42 59 82 89, https://lecoq-fils.com).
$ L’Eté en Pente Douce is a good budget choice, hiding under some trees just downhill from the crowds on a classic neighborhood corner. It features cheery indoor and outdoor seating, cheap plats du jour and salads, vegetarian options, and good wines (daily, many steps below Sacré-Cœur to the left as you leave, 8 Rue Paul Albert, +33 1 42 64 02 67).
(Mo: Abbesses unless otherwise noted)
Halfway down Montmartre’s hill, residents pile into a long lineup of brasseries and cafés near Place des Abbesses. Locals tend to gravitate to the cafés on the north side of Rue des Abbesses, leaving the sunnier and pricier cafés on the south side to visitors. Come here for a lively, less touristy scene. Rue des Abbesses is good for café lounging and a picnic-gathering stroll with cheese shops, delis, wine stores, and bakeries. For award-winning baguettes, try Grenier à Pain (closed Tue-Wed, 38 Rue des Abbesses) or Au Levain d’Antan (closed Sat-Sun, 6 Rue des Abbesses).
$$ Le Progrès is straight out of a movie, with a vintage wood-paneled interior and reasonably priced cuisine (daily, 7 Rue des Trois Frères, +33 1 42 64 07 37).
$ Le Village is a dive bar turned trendy, serving tiny cups of espresso to garbage collectors in the morning and to mustached nonconformists in the afternoon. They have one or two warm plats du jour and several meat-and-cheese-plate combinations (daily, 36 Rue des Abbesses, +33 1 42 54 99 59).
$ Le Relais Gascon is a pleasing bistro with a string of tables lining its front, a warm interior, and a focus on cuisine from France’s southwest regions (daily, serves nonstop from noon until late, 6 Rue des Abbesses, +33 1 42 58 58 22).
$ La Fourmi, sitting at the bottom of the hill, is a raucous café/bar with lovable rough edges. Open all day, they offer coffee, croissants, and simple, affordable lunches. In the evening, the place is taken over by hilltop hipsters who come for the inexpensive beer and generous cheese plates (daily, 74 Rue des Martyrs, Mo: Anvers or Pigalle, +33 1 42 64 70 35, Eloise).
Nightlife on Montmartre: Place du Tertre buzzes with tourist activity after hours. Rue des Abbesses and Rue des Trois Frères attract a more local crowd with cafés, bars, and clubs in all shapes and sizes.
The following companies offer $$$$ lunch and dinner cruises (reservations required). Both offer multicourse meals and music in aircraft-carrier-size dining rooms with glass tops and good views. Ask ahead about proper attire—“smart dress” is required (no denim, shorts, or sport shoes). Earlier cruises (around 18:00) offer cheaper menus than later cruises; prices also vary with seating.
Bateaux Parisiens, considered the better of the two for dinner, features a lively atmosphere with a singer, band, and dance floor. There are several departures daily from Port de la Bourdonnais, just east of the bridge under the Eiffel Tower (Mo: Bir-Hakeim or RER/Train-C: Champ de Mars-Tour Eiffel, +33 1 76 64 14 45, www.bateauxparisiens.com). On board, the middle level is best. Pay the extra euros to get seats next to the windows—it’s more romantic and private, with sensational views.
Bateaux-Mouches, started in 1949, delivers reasonable cuisine, with violin and piano music on its 20:30 trip. You can’t miss its sparkling port on the north side of the river at Pont de l’Alma (RER/Train-C: Pont de l’Alma, +33 1 42 25 96 10, www.bateaux-mouches.fr).
Dine to soft jazz as you glide along Paris’ most famous boulevards and around its greatest monuments on an elegant double-decker bus restaurant. Dining is on the upper deck well above cars below, affording great views and glimpses into Parisian apartments. Buses are designed from scratch for this purpose with a kitchen, drink holders, big windows, toilets, and more. They move slowly, making drinking and dining a breeze. For about the same price as a dinner cruise on a boat, you can dine for about two hours as Paris passes outside your window. The four-course meal is very good (if not gourmet) and the setting is almost elegant. Two companies offer these tours: Bus Toqué (€65 for lunch, €110 for dinner, good wine pairing options, +33 6 21 40 20 41, www.bustoque.fr) and Bustronome (slightly higher prices, +33 9 54 44 45 55, www.bustronome.com).
Here’s a short list of grand (expensive) Parisian cafés, worth the detour only if you’ve got the time and money for such touristy elegance. Think of these cafés as monuments to another time-though some are more modern—and learn why they still matter (see sidebar). For tips on enjoying Parisian cafés, review “Cafés and Brasseries” on here of the Practicalities chapter; for locations, see the “Restaurants near Luxembourg Garden” map, earlier in this chapter. All are open daily.
(Mo: St-Germain-des-Prés)
Where Boulevard St. Germain meets Rue Bonaparte (and nearby) you’ll find several cafés.
$$$ Les Deux Magots offers prime outdoor seating and a warm interior. Once a favorite of Ernest Hemingway (in The Sun Also Rises, Jake met Brett here) and Jean-Paul Sartre (he and Simone de Beauvoir met here), today the café is filled with international tourists (6 Place St. Germain-des-Prés, +33 1 45 48 55 25).
$$$ Café de Flore, on the next block, feels more literary—wear your black turtleneck. Pablo Picasso was a regular at the time he painted Guernica (172 Boulevard St. Germain-des-Prés, +33 1 45 48 55 26).
$$$ Le Procope, Paris’ first and most famous café (1686), was a café célèbre, drawing notables such as Voltaire, Rousseau, Balzac, Zola, Robespierre, Hugo, and two Americans: Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson. The dining rooms are beautiful, but the cuisine is average (13 Rue de l’Ancienne Comédie, +33 1 40 46 79 00).
(Mo: Vavin)
An eclectic assortment of cafés gathers along the busy Boulevard du Montparnasse near its intersection with Boulevard Raspail. Combine these cafés with a visit to Luxembourg Garden, which lies just a few blocks away, down Rue Vavin (next to Le Select).
$$$ La Coupole, built in the 1920s, was decorated by aspiring artists (Léger, Brancusi, and Chagall, among others) in return for free meals. It still supports artists with regular showings on its vast walls. This cavernous café feels like a classy train station, with acres of seating, brass decor, and tuxedoed waiters by the dozen. The food is basic and the service professional, but you’re here for the crazy social scene (food served from 12:00 until the wee hours, come early to get better service, 102 Boulevard du Montparnasse, +33 1 43 20 14 20).
$$$ Le Select, more easygoing and traditional, was once popular with the more rebellious types—Leon Trotsky, Jean Cocteau, and Pablo Picasso loved it. It feels rather conformist today, with good outdoor seating and pleasant tables just inside the door—though the locals hang out at the bar farther inside (99 Boulevard du Montparnasse, across from La Coupole, +33 1 45 48 38 24).
$$$$ Le Ciel de Paris, a modern choice, lets you dine in rarified air on the 56th floor of the Montparnasse Tower with exceptional views west over the Eiffel Tower (daily, 33 Avenue du Maine, +33 1 40 64 77 64).
$$$$ Le Train Bleu is a grandiose restaurant with a low-slung, leather-couch café-bar area built right into the train station for the Paris Exhibition of 1900 (which also saw the construction of the Pont Alexandre III and the Grand and Petit Palais). It’s simply a grand-scale-everything experience, with over-the-top belle époque decor that speaks of another age, when going to dinner was an event—a chance to see and be seen. Forty-one massive paintings of scenes along the old rail lines tempt diners to consider a getaway. Reserve ahead for dinner, or drop in for a drink before your train leaves (up the stairs opposite track L, Gare de Lyon, 4 Place Louis-Armand, +33 1 43 43 09 06, www.le-train-bleu.com).
