Mulhouseaa

Alsace

Mulhouse became a free Imperial city as early as the end of the 13C, and in the 16C formed part of the Decapolis, the league of ten towns of Alsace.

= Population: 113 477

T Michelin Map: 315 i 10

i Info: 2 rue Wilson. t03 89 35 48 42. www.mulhouse.fr.

Ñ Location: 40km/25mi S of Colmar, this large city lies at the meeting point of France, Germany and Switzerland.

w Don’t Miss: Find time for the fascinating textile museum, where beautiful fabrics with historic designs are on sale.

/ Kids: Those who love cars – old and new – will enjoy the Musée de l‘Automobile.

A BIT OF HISTORY

A historic manufacturing and trading centre, the city’s independent spirit led it into an association with the cantons of Switzerland. In 1524, the Republic’s government adopted the principles of the Reformation and a little later on adhered to Calvinism. Theatrical performances were banned and inns had to close by 10pm. However, the spirit of the new religion spurred on industrial development and prompted social and cultural initiatives. It joined France voluntarily in 1798. Mulhouse was already long established as a textile centre, when, in 1746, three of its citizens, J-J Schmaltzer, the painter J-H Dollfus and the merchant S Koechlin together founded the first mill producing calico cotton fabrics. Production advanced by leaps and bounds. In 1812 the Dollfus and Mieg mill was the first to install steam power.

SIGHTS

Hôtel de Villeaa

Since 1558, the City Hall has symbolised Mulhouse’s civic and political liberties. It is a unique example in France of a building of the Rhineland Renaissance by a Basle architect; the exterior is decorated solely by artists from Konstanz. It was remodelled in 1698. It is this later decoration which has been restored to its former glory. The coats of arms of the Swiss cantons painted on the main façade on either side of the covered double flight of steps recall the historical link with Switzerland.

/ Musée de l’Automobile – Collection Schlumpf aaa

15 r. de l’épée. j>Open 1–2 Jan, 5 Feb –3 Apr and 5 Nov–Dec daily 10am–5pm; 3 Jan–4 Feb Mon–Fri 1–5pm, Sat–Sun 10am–5pm; 4 Apr–Oct 10am–6pm. >Closed 25 Dec. |P10.50; child P8.20. t03 89 33 23 23. www.collection-schlumpf.com.

The splendid, definitive collection of 500 vehicles was lovingly built up by the mill-owning Schlumpf brothers.

The collection vividly evokes the history of the motor car from the steam-powered Jacquot (1878) to the latest models. Most are in working order; several had famous owners – Charlie Chaplin’s Rolls-Royce is here.

/ Musée français du Chemin de feraaa

2 r. Alfred de Glehn. >Open 1–2 Jan, 5 Feb–3 Apr, and Nov–Dec 10am–5pm; 3 Jan–4 Feb Mon–Fri 10am–2pm, Sat– Sun 10am–5pm; Apr–Oct 10am–6pm. |P10 (7–12 yr-olds P7.60); combined ticket with Musée national de l’Automobile P17.50. t03 89 42 83 33. www.citedutrain.com.

The French Railways (SNCF) collection, splendidly displayed, illustrates the evolution of railways from their origins until today. The main hall includes footbridges offering a view inside carriages, pits making it possible to walk beneath engines, and drivers’ cabins.

The panorama of steam engines that spans more than 100 years includes famous engines such as the Saint-Pierre, built of teak, which ran between Paris and Rouen from 1844 onwards, the very fast Crampton (1852) which reached speeds of around 120kph/75mph, and the 232 U1 (1949), the last operating steam engine.

The museum also boasts the drawing-room carriage of Napoleon III’s aides-de-camp (1856) decorated by Viollet-le-Duc, and the French president’s carriage (1925) decorated by Lalique and fitted with a solid-silver washbasin. In striking contrast, the bottom of the range includes one of the fourth-class carriages of the Alsace-Lorraine line.

Musée de l’Impression sur étoffesa

j>Open daily except Mon, 10am– noon, 2–6pm. >Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. |P7. t03 89 46 83 00. www.musee-impression.com.

The Museum of Printed Fabric is housed in a former industrial building, which once belonged to the Société Industrielle de Mulhouse.

The Museum of Printed Fabric (created in 1857) illustrates the birth and development of the industry from 1746 onwards: engraving and printing techniques are explained, and impressive machines used throughout the ages are employed for regular demonstrations. There are displays of original 18C shawls with oriental motifs.

This museum and its lovely shop are a must for anyone interested in fashion, interior design and the decorative arts.

ADDITIONAL SIGHTS

Musée Historiqueaa

/ Électropolisa (55 r. du Pâturage) – history of electric power.

Parc Zoologique et Botaniqueaa (51 r. jardin zoologique)

Musée du Papier-peinta (La Commanderie, 28 r. Zuber, Rixheim, 6km/3.7mi east of Mulhouse) – all about wallpaper.

EXCURSION

Ecomusée d’Alsaceaa

Ñ 68190 Ungersheim, about 16km/ 10mi NW of Mulhouse. >Check website for opening times and prices. t03 89 62 43 00. www.ecomusee-alsace.fr.

An open-air museum founded in 1984 to preserve local heritage comprises some 60 old buildings dotted over an area of 25ha/50 acres. The old buildings dating from the 15–19C, which were saved from demolition and carefully dismantled and re-erected to create a village setting, are fine examples of rural habitats from the various regions of Alsace. The museum, which is constantly evolving, also includes industrial structures; next door to the museum are the restored buildings of a potassium mine which was worked from 1911–1930.

Walk around the half-timbered buildings grouped by region (Sundgau, Reid, Kochersberg, Bas-Rhin) and complete with courtyards and gardens, to appreciate the development of building techniques and the varied architecture of farm buildings according to the regions and periods.

Specific buildings such as a fortified structure, a chapel, a school and a wash-house evoke community life in a traditional Alsatian village. Old plant varieties are grown in a typical field which also serves for farming demonstrations.

An area devoted to funfairs includes a rare merry-go-round (1909). Many local people act as volunteers and help withvarious entertainment features which really bring the trades of yesteryear to life. Visitors will discover the age-old crafts of carpenters, blacksmiths, clog makers, potters, coopers, coalmen and masons as well as the evolution of living conditions, including reconstructed interiors complete with kitchens, alcoves and “stube”, the living area with its terracotta stove.

You may purchase souvenirs, crafts and local delicacies on site; there is also a hotel, bakery and restaurants. A wide range of events, depending on the season, are organised, including boat trips, theme days and guided tours of the potash mines by train.

Route des Crêtesaaa

Alsace

In World War I, the French and German armies confronted each other along the old frontier between the two countries formed by the crest-line of the Vosges.

Hugging the ridge is the strategic north–south road planned by French military engineers to serve the front; today it forms a fine scenic route, the Vosges Scenic Road, running for 63km/39mi from the Bonhomme Pass (Col du Bonhomme) in the north to Thann in the south. It offers the visitor a splendid introduction to the varied landscapes of these uplands, which include the sweeping pasturelands of the summits, an array of lakes, and the broad valleys of the Fisch and the Thur.

T Michelin Map: 315 G 8, F 8, F 9 and G 9

Ñ Location: The route starts 30km/18.6mi W of Colmar and heads S to Thann.

w Don’t Miss: The panoramas between Le Hohneck and the Grand Ballon.

EXCURSIONS

Col du Bonhomme

949m/3 114ft high, this is the pass linking the provinces of Alsace and Lorraine.

Col de la Schlucht

1 139m/3 737ft. This is the steepest but also one of the busiest of the routes through the Vosges. The eastern slopes are subject to intense erosion because of the gradient of the torrential rivers; at a distance of only 9km/5.6mi from the pass, the town of Munstera lies 877m/ 2 877ft below, while Colmar, 26km/16mi away, is 1 065m/3 494ft lower.

Hohneckaaa

1 362m/4 469ft.

Rising near the central point of the range, this is one of the most visited of the Vosges summits. From the top there are superb viewsaaa; to the east, the Munster Valleyaa plunges steeply down towards the broad expanses of the Alsace plain, while to the west is the Lorraine plateau, cut into by the valley of the Vologne.

Grand Ballonaaa

1 424m/4 672ft. The Grand Ballon forms the highest point of the Vosges.

From the top (30min round-trip on foot) the magnificent panoramaaaa extends over the southern part of the range, whose physiognomy can be fully appreciated. The eastern and western slopes are quite unlike each other; the drop to the Alsace plain is abrupt, while to the west the land falls away gently to the Lorraine plateau. Glacial action in the Quaternary era is responsible for many features like the massive rounded humps of the summits (ballons), and the morainic lakes in the blocked valleys. Above the tree line, the forest clothing the hillsides gives way to the short grass of the wide upland grazing grounds known as the Hautes-Chaumes.

Vieil-Armandaa

The war memorial (monument national) marks one of the most bitterly contested battlefields of World War I.

View from the summit of Hohneck

© Yves Talensac/Photononstop

Reimsaaa

Champagne-Ardenne

The ancient university town on the banks of the River Vesle is famous for its magnificent and important cathedral, where French kings were traditionally crowned.

It has a wealth of other architectural masterpieces. Reims is also (along with Epernay) the capital of champagne’s wine industry. Most of the great champagne houses’ cellars are open to the public.

= Population: 185 541

T Michelin Map: 306 G 7

i Info: 2 r. Guillaume de Machault. t0892 701 351. www.reims-tourisme.com.

Ñ Location: Reims is 143km/89mi NE of Paris on the A 4 autoroute, and 275km/171mi from Calais on the A 26, which skirts the town. Take any turning for Centre Ville.

A BIT OF HISTORY

Under the Romans, Reims was the capital of the province which was to become Belgium. It was at Reims, in 496, that Clovis, King of the Franks, was baptised by St Remigius (St Rémi). This was a political event of some significance, since it made the ambitious 35-year-old warrior the only Christian ruler in the chaotic times following the collapse of the Roman Empire. It was he who halted the advance of the Visigoths at Poitiers, subsequently pushing them back, first to Toulouse, then all the way into Spain. With him, the source of political authority in Gaul passed from Provence to the north.

At the time of the Carolingians, a feeling for beauty became evident at Reims; ancient texts were carefully copied, manuscripts illuminated, ivory carved and masterpieces of the goldsmith’s art created. The period produced Charlemagne’s Talisman (now in the Bishops’ Palace) as well as the Épernay Gospel. In 816, Louis I the Pious had himself crowned here, as Charlemagne had done at Rome 16 years before. It was from this point that the dynasty acquired a sort of religious character, though it was not until the crowning of Louis VIII, 400 years later, that the city became the recognised place for coronations, with a ceremonial ever more elaborate and charged with symbolism. By the time of Charles X, 25 kings had been crowned here. The most moving coronation was that of Charles VII on 17 July 1429, which took place in the middle of the Hundred Years’ War in the presence of Joan of Arc; the Maid of Orléans had given Frenchmen the first inklings of national identity, and had persuaded the king to make his way to Reims, even though this involved him in crossing the hostile Burgundian territory of Philippe le Bon (the Good).

Champagne

Though covering only 2 percent of the total area planted with vines in France, this northernmost of the country’s wine-growing regions is perhaps its most prestigious. The product was known in Roman times, when it was a still wine. It was Dom Pérignon (1638–1715), cellar-master of Hautvillers Abbey (Abbaye de Hautevilliers), who had the idea of making it sparkle by means of double fermentation, a process carried out today by the use of cane sugar and yeasts.

The vines are spread over an area totalling 30 000ha/74 000 acres, on the lower slopes of the chalk escarpment of the Côte de l’Île-de-France for preference. The most renowned vineyards are the Montagne de Reims (robust, full-bodied wines), the valley of the Marne (fruity wines with plenty of bouquet) and the Côte des Blancs (fresh and elegant wines). Champagne is a blended, branded wine, the prestige of the great labels dependent on the expertise of the master-blenders. Some 215 million bottles are produced in an average year, with over 75 million of them for export.

Cathédrale Notre-Dame with the statue of Jeanne d’Arc

© Guay Marché/Photononstop

On 7 May 1945, in a modern technical college near the station, the document was signed which marked the surrender of Germany. Confirmed the day after in Berlin, this brought to an end World War II in Europe.

SIGHTS

Cathédrale Notre-Dameaaa

Place Cardinal Luçon. >Open daily 7.30am–7.30pm; no visits during services. zGuided multilingual tours on request.

The present building was begun in 1211. It is one of the great cathedrals of France, built in the Lanceolate Gothic style pioneered at Chartres, but with more sophisticated ornamentation, especialy in its window tracery. The west front has wonderfully soaring lines and superb 13C sculpture, whose masterpiece is the world-famous Smiling Angel (in a splay of the north portal).

Inside is one of the greatest achievements of the Gothic, the west end of the nave, best seen towards the end of the afternoon when the sun lights up the two rose windows.

Reims was occupied by the German army from 3–12 September 1914, and for four years remained in the battle zone. By the end of the war, out of a total of 14  130 houses, only 60 remained habitable. The cathedral, one of the country’s most precious buildings in terms of both artistic and historic value, was in ruins. The artillery bombardments of 19 September 1914 and April 1917 had been particularly destructive. The skilful restoration has largely been financed by the Rockefeller Foundation.

Palais du Tauaa

2 pl. du Cardinal-Luçon. >Open early May–early Sept Tue–Sun 9.30am– 6.30pm; rest of the year 9.30am– 2.30pm, 2–5.30pm. >Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 and 11 Nov, 25 Dec. zGuided tours (1hr15min) of the palace available (in French); reserve 1 week in advance; guided tours (2hr30min) of palace and cathedral; reserve 2 weeks in advance. |P7. t03 26 47 81 79. http://palais-tau.monuments-nationaux.fr.

Dating from 1690, the former palace of the bishops of Reims was built by Mansart and Robert de Cotte. In it is housed some of the cathedral’s original statuary and tapestries, among them two huge 15C Arras tapestries depicting scenes from the life of Clovis.

The treasury has many objects of outstanding interest, such as the 9C Talisman of Charlemagne, the 11C cut-glass Holy Thorn reliquary, the 12C coronation chalice, the St Ursula reliquary with its cornelian casket, the Holy Ampulla reliquary, and a collar of the Order of the Holy Ghost.

Basilique St-Rémiaa

Place Chanoine Ladame. >Open daily 8am–7pm. Son-et-Lumière shows Jul– Sept Sat 9.30pm. |No charge. zGuided tours on request.

Dating from 1007, this is the city’s most venerable church, though restorations have left little that is Romanesque and less that is Carolingian. The west front was rebuilt during a major restoration in 1170; it is remarkable for its Romanesque south tower. The façade of the south transept with its statue of St Michael was reconstructed in the 14C and 15C.

The sombre interior (intérieuraaa) is remarkable for its length (122m/400ft) in proportion to its width (26m/85ft). The oldest part of the church is the 11C transept. In the 12C, the choir was rebuilt in the Early Gothic manner and the whole nave given Gothic vaulting.

ADDRESSES

„ STAY

. Ardenn Hôtel – 6 r. Caqué. t03 26 47 42 38. www.ardennhotel.fr. Closed Dec–early Jan. 14rms. : P5.50. This hotel, behind an attractive brick façade in a quiet little town-centre street, has tastefully decorated rooms and smiling service.

q Crystal – 86 pl. Drouet-d’Erlon. t03 26 88 44 44. www.hotel-crystal.fr. 31rms. : P9. A haven of greenery right in the centre of town is the main attraction of this 1920s house. The renovated bedrooms all have excellent bedding. Breakfast is served in a delightful flowered courtyard garden in summer.

q Hôtel La Cathédrale – 20 r. Libergier. t03 26 47 28 46. 14rms. : P7. This smart, welcoming hotel stands in a street leading to the cathedral and has small, bright and cheerful rooms with comfortable beds, while the breakfast room is decorated with old engravings.

q Hôtel Continental – 93 pl. Drouet- d’Erlon. t03 26 40 39 35. www.grandhotelcontinental.com. Closed 21 Dec–7 Jan. 50rms. :P14. The attractive façade of this central hotel adorns one of the city’s liveliest squares. The rooms, in varying styles, are reached by a splendid staircase. Elegant Belle Epoque sitting rooms.

q Grand Hôtel du Nord – 75 pl. Drouet-d’Erlon. t03 26 47 39 03. www.hotel-nord-reims.com. Closed Christmas period. 50rms. : P9. Recently renovated rooms with all mod-cons in a 1920s building set in a pedestrians-only square. The rooms facing the back are quieter. Many restaurants nearby.

^ Hôtel Porte Mars – 2 pl. de la République. t03 26 40 28 35. www.hotelportemars.com. 24rms. : P12. Drink tea in the cosy sitting room, or enjoy a drink in the sophisticated bar. A delicious breakfast is served in the attractive glass-roofed dining room decorated with photographs and old mirrors. The comfortable, well sound-proofed rooms all have a personal touch.

ƒEAT

q Brasserie Le Boulingrin – 48 r. Mars. t03 26 40 96 22. www.boulingrin.fr. Closed Sun. This Art Deco-style restaurant dating from 1925 has become an institution in Reims life. The owner is much in evidence, overseeing the operations and creating a congenial atmosphere. The menu is inventive and the prices reasonable.

q Café du Palais – 14 pl. Myron-Herrick. t03 26 47 52 54. www.cafedupalais.fr. Closed Mon eve and Sun. This lively café near the cathedral was founded in 1930. With its original glass roof and a warm red décor, it serves generous portions of salad and other daily dishes, which are much appreciated, as are the home-made pastries. You can also enjoy a reasonably priced glass of champagne.

q Da Nello – 39 r. Cérès. t03 26 47 33 25. A Mediterranean welcome awaits you at this Italian restaurant where the tables look onto the kitchen and the pizzas are baked in the oven in the centre of the room. Fresh pasta, grilled dishes and daily specials according to what the market has to offer… and all served with an authentic Italian accent.

q La Table Anna – 6 r. Gambetta. t03 26 89 12 12. Closed Mon. Champagne takes pride of place in the window of this establishment next door to the music conservatory. Some of the paintings adorning the walls are the work of the owner. Traditional dishes are renewed with the seasons.

q La Vigneraie – 14 r. de Thillois. t03 26 88 67 27. www.vigneraie.com.

A celebrated gastronomic halt in the centre of Reims, La Vigneraie boasts a fantastic collection of carafes. Tasty classical menu and fine wine list. Excellent value for money; all is calm, luxurious elegance and courtesy, just steps from the cathedral.

^ Au Petit Comptoir – 17 r. de Mars. t03 26 40 58 58. Closed Sun, Mon. This imposing restaurant with its wooden terrace is right behind the town hall. Inside the black-and-white décor and studied lighting lend a cosy atmosphere. Traditional cooking and spit-roast dishes.

ρ NIGHTLIFE

Place Drouet-d’Erlon – This square is the prime starting point for anyone wanting to go out on the town. There is something for everyone, whether you are looking for a bar, pub, restaurant, tearoom or brasserie.

La Chaise au Plafond – 190 ave d’Épernay. t03 26 06 09 61. Founded in 1910, this bar and tobacconist‘s is famous for the chair that has remained stuck to the ceiling ever since a shell hit the establishment on 12 September 1914. Terrace in summer. Selection of 150 cigars (Cuban, Honduran or from Santo Domingo).

CHOCOLATIERS

Deléans – 20 r. Cérés. t03 26 47 56 35. Closed Aug. Cocoa-based specialities have been made here in the old-fashioned way since 1874. Try Néluskos (chocolate-coated cherries in cognac), and petits bouchons de champagne, enclosed in a giant champagne cork made of chocolate.

Fossier – 25 cours JB Langlet. t03 26 47 59 84. Founded in 1756, the biscuit- and chocolate-maker Fossier creates the ultimate in Reims confectionery. Pay a visit to the shop and factory and learn how to piouler (stir) your glass of champagne correctly!

La Petite Friande – 15 cours JB Langlet. t03 26 47 50 44. For over 170 years, the establishment has prided itself on being the specialists in authentic bouchons de champagne, made with marc de champagne. Another of their delicious creations is bulles à la vieille fine de la Marne.

CALENDAR

Fêtes Johanniques – 2nd weekend in June. 2 000 walk-ons in period costume accompany Joan of Arc and Charles VII during a massive street festival.

Flâneries musicales d’été – Jun–Jul. Over 150 street concerts throughout the town, including shows by major international stars in some of the town’s most prestigious and unlikely venues.

CHAMPAGNE HOUSES

Several of the world’s most renowned champagne-makers have their cellars in Reims, and offer guided tours, tastings and discount purchases.

Mumm 34 r. du Champ-de-Mars. www.mumm.com

Piper-Heidsieck 51 bd Henry-Vasnier. www.piper-heidsieck.com

Pommery 5 pl. du Gén.-Gouraud. www.pommery.com.

Ruinart 4 r. des Crayères. www.ruinart.com.

Taittinger 9 pl. St-Nicaise. www.taittinger.fr.

Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin 1 pl. des Droits-de-l’Homme. www.veuve-clicquot.fr.