St-Tropezaa

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After half a century of fame, the little town of St-Trop’ (as the locals call it) is still in fashion, thanks to an exquisitely picturesque harbour, a stunning location, and a constant stream of artists, journalists and photographers.

= Population: 5 364

T Michelin Map: 340 O 6

i Info: quai Jean-Jaurès. t0892 68 48 28. www.ot-saint-tropez.com.

Ñ Location: St-Tropez, 86km/54mi from Cannes, can be reached on the congested road that encircles the peninsula. The easiest approach is by the short passenger ferry from Port Grimaud across the bay.

õ Parking: Use the large car parks on the edge of town.

VISIT

Celebrities can sometimes be spotted in St-Tropez and the atmosphere is created by an impressive array of luxury charter yachts moored in the picturesque harbour, which teems with life.

The old fishing village, which was discovered by writer Guy de Maupassant and his friend painter Paul Signac, and went on to attract Matisse and major post-Impressionist artists as well as the writer Colette, remains a fashionable resort frequented by writers and artists and more recently by celebrities from the entertainment world.

Two Bravades, or “acts of defiance“, take place each year in May. The first is a religious procession in honour of St-Tropez, while the second commemorates an event of local history which took place in 1637.

Musée de l’Annonciadeaa

pl. Georges Grammont. >Open Jun- Sept Wed–Mon 10am–noon; Oct and Dec–May 10am–noon, 2–6pm.>Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, Ascension Day, 25 Dec; |P6. t04 94 17 84 10.

The museum, in an old house delightfully positioned on a bend in the quayside, has an impressive permanent collection, including post-Impressionist pictures of St-Tropez and also some remarklable temporary exhibitions.

EXCURSIONS

St-Tropez Peninsulaaa

St-Tropez is located on the north coast of the peninsula. Its east coast is fringed with popular sandy beaches, notably the famous Plage de Pampelonne. The south coast has some scenic rocky headlands. The interior is hilly and rustic, with small vineyards, pine copses and two charming old villages commanding wide views, Ramatuelle and smaller Gassin. A footpath extends around the coast of the whole peninsula.

Massif des Mauresaaa

The long, low parallel ranges of the massif unfold from Fréjus to Hyères. Its fine forests of pine, cork oak and chestnut trees have often been devastated by fire. Chapels, monasteries and small villages are dotted in the hinterland, while the coast is fringed by coves, bays and small beach resorts.

Abbaye du Thoronetaa

Ñ The abbey can be reached from autoroute A 8, junction 13. j>Open daily: Apr–Sept 10am–6.30pm, Sun 10am–noon, 2–6.30pm; Oct–Mar Mon–Sat 10am–1pm, 2–5pm, Sun 10am–noon, 2–5pm. >Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 and 11 Nov, 25 Dec. |P7. t04 94 60 43 90 98. http://thoronet.monuments-nationaux.fr.

Of the “Three Cistercian Sisters of Provence” (the others are Silvacane and Sénanque), Le Thoronet is the earliest; it was founded in 1136, when St Bernard was still alive. It is one of the most characteristic of Cistercian abbeys, as well as one of the most austere.

The plain architecture of the abbey is unrelieved by decoration, save in the chapterhouse, where just two roughly sculpted capitals relieve the prevailing rigour. The abbey churcha has a simple beauty. Built from 1160 onwards, it has remarkable stonework which was cut and assembled without the use of mortar (notably in the oven-vaulted apse). The cloistersa of about 1175 have kept their four barrel-vaulted walks; the change of level is more obvious here than in the church and is still causing problems of subsidence.

ADDRESSES

„ STAY

q Bello Visto – pl. deï Barri, Gassin, 8km/5mi SW of St-Tropez. t04 94 56 17 30. Closed Jan and Nov. 9 rms. : P8. There’s truth in the name of this small family-run out-of-town hotel and restaurant at the top of Gassin village. Most rooms, like the terrace, profit from a “beautiful vista” over the Massif des Maures and the gulf of St-Tropez. Dining room with Provençal cuisine.

_ Hôtel Lou Cagnard – ave Paul-Roussel. t04 94 97 04 24. www.hotel-lou-cagnard.com. Closed 1 Nov–26 Dec. 19 rooms. : P11. Enjoy breakfast in the shade of a mulberry tree in the tiny garden of this pretty Provençal house, just off Place des Lices. At night you’ll be lulled to sleep by the chirping of cicadas. Modest prices, for St-Tropez.

_ Hôtel de La Ponche – 3 r. des Remparts. t04 94 97 02 53. www.laponche.com. Closed 2 Nov–3 Apr. 18rms. : P20. The rooms of this cosy hotel occupy four village houses formerly belonging to fishermen; the blue one was a favourite of actress Romy Schneider’s. The rooftop terraces nestle between the citadel and the bell tower, and the warm, bright hues, combined with considerate service, make the Hôtel Ponche an absolute must.

ƒEAT

q Leï Salins – rte des Salins. t04 94 97 04 40. Open-air beach restaurant offering a tasty bill of fare consisting of salads and grilled, freshly caught fish. Charming seaside location coupled with attractive surroundings.

^ Leï Mouscardins – 1 r. Portalet. t04 94 97 29 00. Closed Wed off-season. Tucked away behind the harbour, near Tour du Portalet, this restaurant pays homage to Mediterranean tradition. It has a faithful following of food lovers, lured by its creative and lovingly prepared cuisine, presented to you in two dining rooms opening out onto St-Tropez Bay.

^ Régis Restaurant – 19 r. de la Citadelle. t04 94 97 15 53. Pasta in all shapes and sizes, cooked in various ways, as well as sushi and wok stir-fries, attract a regular clientele to this restaurant located on a steep, narrow street in St-Tropez.

^ La Table du Marché – 38 r. Georges-Clemenceau. t04 94 97 85 20. www.christophe-leroy.com/tablemarchesttropez. Gourmets will love this temple of gastronomy located near Place des Lices, open all day. In addition to the restaurant offering traditional French cuisine, La Table du Marché is also known for its home made pastries that can be purchased on the premises.

ρ NIGHTLIFE

Bar du Château de la Messardière – rte de Tahiti. t04 94 56 76 00. This bar belongs to one of the Riviera’s most prestigious hotels. Cosy ambience in the piano bar of this former 18C private residence.

Le Bar du Sube – 15 quai Suffren sur le Port. t04 94 97 30 04. Right on the quayside, one of the most beautiful bars in town.

Sénéquier – quai Jean-Jaurès. t04 94 97 20 20. The pavement terrace and crimson chairs of this tea room are famous throughout the world – or so say the locals! Renowned personalities such as Jean Marais, Errol Flynn and Colette would come here for the many delights on offer.

΋ SHOPPING

Markets – Tue and Sat, pl. des Lices.

Shopping streets – r. Clemenceau, r. Gambetta and r. Allard offer an impressive selection of local arts and crafts: pottery, glassware, etc.

Les Sandales Tropéziennes – 16 r. Georges Clemenceau. t04 94 97 19 55. The Rondini house has been crafting St-Tropez sandals since 1927. The distinctive, namesake model in natural leather is the most popular, but the snakeskin version sells well, too!

Le Petit Village – at La Foux roundabout, follow signs to Grimaud/Cogolin. t04 94 56 32 04. This showroom brings together wines from eight prestigious vineyards on the St-Tropez peninsula, just off the busy La Foux intersection.

Toulonaa

Var

Backed by high hills whose summits are crowned by forts, Toulon is France’s second most important naval base, set in one of the Mediterranean’s most beautiful harbours. The Old Town of Toulon is located on the Old Port, or Vieille Darse, bounded to the east by Cours Lafayette, to the west by Rue Anatole-France and to the north by Rue Landrin. The greater Toulon area includes the towns surrounding the harbours (Grande Rade and Petite Rade) as well as the Bay of Lazaret formed by the peninsula of the Presqu’île de St-Mandrier. The Old Town is accessible to pedestrians only.

= Population: 169 010

T Michelin Map: 340 K 7

i Info: 334 ave de la République. t04 94 18 53 00. www.toulontourisme.com.

Ñ Location: The city is 64km/ 39.7mi E of Marseille.

õ Parking: The largest parking areas are located on the Place d’Armes, Place de la Liberté/Palais Liberté, and at the Centre Mayol.

w Don’t Miss: A boat trip around the immense natural harbour (rade) is especially enjoyable (1hr; P9. t04 94 93 07 56). Also don’t miss the winding streets of the Old Town and Old Port around the Arsenal and Quai Cronstadt.

SIGHTS

La Radeaa

Construction of Toulon’s Old Port (Darse Vieille) began under Henri IV. Richelieu appreciated the strategic advantages of the roadstead and ordered the building of the first naval installations. In the reign of Louis XIV, the base was extended and the New Port (Darse Neuve) laid out by Vauban. In the 19C, the Mourillon extension and the Castigneau basin were built, completing the naval base which had become the home port of the French Mediterranean Fleet.

Porta

To the west of the Quai Cronstedt (landing-stage for boat trips) is the Navy Museum (Musée de la Marine). Once the entrance to the old Arsenal, its doorway is a Louis XV masterpiece; it is flanked by sculptures of Mars and Bellona and has marble columns with Doric capitals framing tableaux of maritime motifs. The balcony of the former Town Hall is supported by two splendidly muscular Atlantesa, the work of Pierre Puget.

Mont Faronaaa

This distinctive yet small massif rising behind the town is the easternmost of the limestone ranges which were raised up in Provence on the fringe of the great earth movements associated with the formation of the Alps.

A telepherique travels over pine-clad slopes to the summit, an exciting experience, with thrilling views of Toulon, the inner and outer anchorages, the St-Mandrier and Cap Sicié peninsulas and Bandol. (bd Amiral Vence. |P7. t04 94 92 68 25).

Musée-mémorial du Débarquement en Provencea

j>Open daily except Mon: 10am–1pm, 2–5.30pm (May–Sept 6.30pm). |P4. t04 94 88 08 09.

From the tower, Tour Beaumont, there are fine views inland as well as a magnificent seaward panoramaaaa over the Hyères Islands, the Toulon roadstead and the whole of the coast between Sanary and Bandol.

The diorama explains the course of the landings which took place on the night of 14–15 August 1944, and of the subsequent liberation of the coast between Antheor and Marseille.

EXCURSIONS

Hyèresa

The palm trees and mild climate of this southernmost Riviera resort are a good indication of what has attracted winter visitors to Hyères (aka Hyères-les-Palmiers) for more than a century. Its magnificent villas and Belle Époque palace hotels reveal the faded glory of the town once populated by wealthy aristocrats.

Excavations on the coast reveal that Greeks from Marseille set up a trading station called Olbia, which was succeeded by a Roman town Pomponiana, and then a convent called St-Pierre-d’Almanarre during the Middle Ages, when the inhabitants moved further up the hill.

The town became a well-known resort in the 19C. In the 20C, tourism led to the development of the beaches, although Hyères is a lively town throughout the year.

Beaches

The long sandy beach of L’Almanarre is near the ancient site of the Greek town of Olbia and used by many surfing schools. The Route du Sel (accessible only in summer) leads along the peninsula, passing a vast salt marsh and then the Étang des Pesquiers, home to many aquatic birds.

Boats leave from the port for the Îles d’Hyères. The old port of Hyères, Ayguade-le-Ceinturon, is where St Louis disembarked on his return from the Seventh Crusade. It is now a pleasant resort area with two sand beaches.

Jardins Olbius-Riquier

>Open daily 7.30am–5pm (summer until 8pm). |No charge.

The extensive gardens grow a rich variety of tropical plants, palms and cacti. In the greenhouse more fragile species can be seen together with a few rare animals.

Villa de Noailles

>Open daily except Mon–Tue and public holidays 1–6pm (Fri 3–8pm).

|No charge. t04 94 01 84 40.

www.villanoailles-hyeres.com.

In 1923 the Noailles, a rich couple of art patrons, commissioned ths winter villa from the Belgian architect Mallet-Stevens. With its covered swimming pool and 60 or so rooms, it was one of the first modern homes on the Riviera, and became a favourite rendez-vous for avant-garde artists of the 1920s (Picasso, Giacometti, Man Ray, Dalí). The city restored the villa in 1986, and temporary exhibitions are held on the first floor.

Îles d’Hyèresaaa

wNo matter which island you visit, be sure to take plenty of drinking water.

These popular Côte d’Azur islands off the Hyères harbour are just a short sea crossing from the coast, and offer many beautiful scenic walking trails, sandy beaches and rocky inland hills. These islands are also known as the Îles d’Or due to the fact that in certain lights their mica shale rocks cast golden reflections.

Île de Porquerollesaaa

Porquerolles was called Protè (First) by the Greek settlers who came to live along its shores. The best way to discover the island is by bicycle (hired in the village). The north coast has sandy beaches bordered by pine trees, heather and scented myrtle; the south coast is steep and rugged with one or two inlets that are easily accessible.

Île-de Port-Crosaaa

Port-Cros Island is hillier, more rugged, and higher above the sea than its neighbours, and its lush vegetation is unrivalled on the coast. A few fishermen’s cottages, a bunch of shops and a small church adorn the area around the bay, which is commanded by Fort du Moulin (aka the “Château”). Port-Cros, together with Île de Bagaud and neighbouring islets is designated a Parc National.

Île du Levant

The island consists of a rocky spine rimmed by vertical cliffs. Ninety percent of the island is occupied by the Marine Nationale (waccess is forbidden). Much of the rest is used for private nudist beaches.