Gavin Hellier/AWL Images
Moai, Rapa Nui
Valparaíso Stunning setting, bohemian atmosphere and vibrant nightlife.
The Elqui Valley Laidback villages, pisco tasting and stargazing.
San Pedro de Atacama Gateway to spectacular high-altitude desert landscapes.
Pucón Volcano climbing, white-water rafting and hot springs.
Parque Nacional Torres del Paine World-class hiking amid majestic scenery.
Rapa Nui (Easter Island) Wonderfully remote home to mysterious moai statues.
Highlights are marked on the map
Daily budget Basic US$55
Drink Pisco sour US$5
Food Pastel de choclo US$9
Camping/hostel/budget hotel US$10/20/50
Population 17.9 million
Languages Spanish; indigenous languages Aymará, Huilliche, Kawéscar, Mapudungun, Quechua, Rapanui and Yámana
Currency Chilean Peso (CH$)
Capital Santiago region (population: 7 million)
International phone code 
56
Time zone Mainland Chile except Magallanes region: -3hr GMT in summer, -4hr GMT in winter. Magallanes region: -3hr GMT year-round. Easter Island: -5hr GMT in summer, -6hr GMT in winter.
Chileans often say that when God created the world, he had a little bit of everything left over, and put pieces of desert, rivers, lakes and glaciers together to make Chile. From the world’s driest non-polar desert – the Atacama – in the north to the volcanic peaks and verdant landscapes of the Lake District and the icy wilderness of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego in the south, it is perhaps the most geographically diverse and fascinating country in Latin America. Snaking between the Andes and the Pacific Ocean, Chile is a fantastic playground for lovers of the outdoors and adrenaline junkies, with world-class trekking, skiing, surfing, rafting, climbing and paragliding. The country’s extensive national parks and nature reserves also boast an astounding array of plant and animal life.
Today, despite its troubled past under the brutal Pinochet dictatorship, Chile is among the most politically and economically stable countries in Latin America. For the most part, it is westernized and affluent, and its excellent bus network makes it an easy country to navigate.
Cosmopolitan Santiago is a very manageable starting point, with plenty of excellent hostels, restaurants and bars, as well as easy access to superb ski resorts and the vineyards of Middle Chile. Nearby, in the beguiling port of Valparaiso, you can ride the ascensores (funiculars), soak up the bohemian atmosphere, or relax on the sandy beaches of neighbouring Viña del Mar. Head further north to the Norte Chico to knock back a pisco sour in the tranquil Elqui Valley, or stargaze in some of the world’s clearest skies. Further north still is the Norte Grande, where the strong breaks of the Pacific Ocean meet the moonscape scenery of the Atacama Desert. Visit gleaming lagoons and steaming geysers in the backpacker oasis of San Pedro de Atacama, and get your fill of sun and surf in the beach towns of Iquique and Arica.
South of Santiago and Middle Chile, the Lake District – a region of lush forests and snowcapped volcanoes – exudes opportunities for hiking, rafting, cycling and mountaineering, while the fascinating archipelago of Chiloé has beautiful wooden churches and a distinct culture. Towering granite pillars and blue-tinged glaciers draw thousands of visitors to Chilean Patagonia, and the excellent trekking routes of Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, while a few head even further south to Tierra del Fuego. Last, but definitely not least, for serene beauty, ancient mystery and giant moai statues, head to the one of the world’s most remote inhabited islands, Rapa Nui (Easter Island).
If you want to experience the whole of Chile in all its diversity you’ll need to come prepared for both extreme cold and extreme heat. The Lake District, Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego are best explored from October through to April, since the Chilean winter effectively shuts down much of the south and transport can be very limited. Norte Grande, Norte Chico, Middle Chile and the Pacific island territories, however, can be accessed all year round.
1520 Ferdinand Magellan is the first European to sail through what is now the Magellan Strait.
1536 Expedition from Peru to Chile by conquistador Diego de Almagro and his four hundred men ends in death for most of the party.
1541 Pedro de Valdivia, a lieutenant of Francisco Pizarro, founds Santiago; a feudal system in which Spanish landowners enslave the indigenous population is established.
1808 Napoleon invades Spain and replaces Spanish King Ferdinand VII with his own brother.
1810 The criollo elite of Santiago decide Chile will be self-governed until the Spanish king is restored to the throne.
1817 Bernardo O’Higgins defeats Spanish royalists in the Battle of Chacabuco with the help of Argentine general José San Martín, as part of the movement to liberate South America from colonial rule.
1818 Full independence won from Spain. O’Higgins signs the Chilean Declaration of Independence.
1829 Wealthy elite seizes power with dictator Diego Portales at the helm.
1832–60s Mineral deposits found in the north of the country, stimulating economic growth.
1879–83 Chilean troops occupy the Bolivian port of Antofagasta, precipitating the War of the Pacific against Bolivia and Peru.
1914 With the creation of the Panama Canal, shipping routes no longer need to pass via the Cape, thus ending Valparaíso’s glory days. The German invention of synthetic fertilizers ends the nitrates boom.
1927–31 Carlos Ibáñez del Campo becomes Chile’s first dictator, founding the corps of carabineros (militarized police); Chile is badly affected by the 1929 economic crash.
1932–52 Political instability: land belongs largely to the elite, while US corporations control copper production. Seeds are sewn of a political divide between left and conservative right.
1946 Gabriel González Videla becomes president of a broad coalition of parties; bowing to pressure from the US, he outlaws the Communist Party.
1970 Socialist leader Salvador Allende becomes the first democratically elected Marxist president by a slim margin.
1973–89 General Augusto Pinochet seizes control of the country in a coup with the support of the Chilean armed forces and the CIA. Intense repression of the regime’s opponents follows, including arrests, torture and “disappearances”; thousands forced to flee the country.
1990 Christian Democrat Patricio Aylwin is elected president and Pinochet steps down peacefully, though not before securing constitutional immunity from prosecution.
2004 The Chilean Supreme Court strips Pinochet of immunity from prosecution.
2006 Socialist leader Michelle Bachelet, former torture victim of the Pinochet regime, is elected president. Pinochet dies under house arrest.
2010 Conservative businessman Sebastián Piñera narrowly elected president. Middle Chile is hit by a massive earthquake that measures 8.8 on the Richter scale. In October, 33 Chilean miners are rescued after 69 days trapped underground in a mine near Copiapó.
2011 Students launch massive protests over costs and quality of education.
2013 Bachelet wins a second presidential term.
2014 An earthquake measuring 8.2 strikes off the coast of Iquique.
2017 In a landmark move, abortion is legalized in certain circumstances. Later in the year Sebastián Piñera returns to the presidency.
Chile has land borders with Argentina, Bolivia and Peru. Santiago is Chile’s main transportation hub with numerous flights from Europe, North and South America, Australia and New Zealand. You can also fly to Chile’s neighbours from several smaller airports such as Arica, Punta Arenas and Puerto Montt.
Numerous border crossings from Argentina to Chile are served by bus, though those in the high Andes are seasonal and some in Patagonia may close for bad weather. Besides the frequently used Mendoza–Santiago crossing via the Los Libertadores tunnel, popular routes in the Lake District include Bariloche to Osorno, San Martín de Los Andes to Temuco, and Bariloche to Puerto Varas/Puerto Montt. Southern Patagonian routes include Comodoro Rivadavia to Coyhaique, El Calafate to Puerto Natales and Río Gallegos to Punta Arenas, plus highly weather-dependent boat crossings from Ushuaia to Puerto Williams. There’s also a crossing from Villa O’Higgins to El Chaltén. In the north, the popular Jujuy and Salta to San Pedro de Atacama bus crossing is best booked in advance.
The year-round crossing from La Paz to Arica is straightforward, with a good paved highway running between the two cities and plentiful buses. There are infrequent buses from Uyuni to San Pedro de Atacama via the Portezuelo del Cajón; regular three- to four-day tours also take travellers between San Pedro and Uyuni.
Frequent buses, colectivos and taxis serve the year-round crossing from Tacna to Arica.
Citizens of the UK, the European Union, the United States, Canada, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand do not require visas, though citizens of the US (US$131), Canada (US$132) and Australia (US$61) have to pay a reciprocity fee. Tourists are routinely granted ninety-day entry permits and must surrender their tourist cards upon departure. In theory, visitors can be asked to produce an onward ticket and proof of sufficient funds, but this rarely happens. Ninety-day visa extensions can be granted by the Departamento de Extranjería, San Antonio 580, Piso 2, Santiago Centro (Mon–Fri 8.30am–2pm, calls taken 9am–4pm; 600 626 4222, 
www.extranjeria.gob.cl/ingles/), at a cost of US$100, although it may be cheaper and easier simply to cross the border into a neighbouring country and back again. If you lose your tourist card, you can get a replacement from the Policía Internacional, Morande 672, Santiago (2 2690 1010).
Most Chileans travel by bus, and it’s such a reliable and inexpensive option that you’ll probably do the same. However, domestic flights are handy for covering long distances in a hurry.
Several airlines offer frequent and reasonably priced flights within Chile. You’ll often find better fares by booking locally, rather than in advance from home. LATAM (formerly LAN; 600 526 2000, latam.com) is easily the biggest airline, with efficient online booking, last-minute discounts and a good-value “Visit South America Airpass”. Sky Airline (600 600 2828, skyairline.com) also has daily flights between Chile’s major cities, and is generally cheaper. Punta Arenas-based Aerovías DAP (61 261 6100, dapairline.com) flies to various destinations in Chilean and Argentine Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego.
Chile has a very limited railway network. In Middle Chile, a reliable and comfortable service operated by Tren Central (trencentral.cl) has services between Santiago and Chillán, with stops at stations such as Rancagua and Talca.
Bus travel is popular, affordable and convenient. The level of comfort depends on how much you are prepared to pay, with the cama buses generally being the plushest, their seats reclining almost horizontally. For example, the cheapest seats from Santiago to Arica cost from CH$50,000 to CH$55,000; shop around as there are often promotions.
Bus tickets are valid only for specified buses, and the major bus companies, such as Tur Bus (600 660 6600, turbus.cl) and Pullman (600 320 3200, pullman.cl), require you to buy your ticket before you board – though for many routes you’ll have no trouble purchasing tickets at the bus station shortly before your departure. That said, south of Puerto Montt, and especially during the peak months, demand outstrips supply, so it is advisable to book in advance if you are on a tight schedule. Bus station kiosks are the easiest option – online booking services (such as recorrido.cl and voyhoy.cl) are available but cannot always process foreign credit/debit cards. If crossing international borders by bus, remember that it’s prohibited to transport animal and plant matter to neighbouring countries, and luggage searches are frequent.
Smaller local buses and minibuses (micros) connect city centres with outlying neighbourhoods and smaller towns with villages. In some parts of Chile, especially in the north, colectivos (shared taxis with fixed fares) provide a faster and only slightly pricier service between towns than local buses.
South of Puerto Montt, where Chile breaks up into a plethora of islands and fjords, you will have to take a ferry, whether to continue along the Carretera Austral or to work your way down to Southern Patagonia. Travelling south by boat is more expensive than going by bus, but it allows you access to some of the remotest and most beautiful parts of Chile. Popular routes include Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales, Puerto Montt to Chacabuco and Chacabuco to Laguna San Rafael.
Car rental is costly (around CH$30,000–45,000/day) and complicated, with expensive insurance due to the varying condition of the dirt roads. Carrying spare tyres, a jack, extra petrol and plenty of drinking water is essential for driving around more remote parts of Chile, and punctures are frequent. Since public transport is perfectly adequate in most parts of the country, the only places where it may make sense to rent a 4WD vehicle is on Easter Island, parts of Patagonia, and perhaps to some national parks. To rent a car, you need to be over 21 years old; take your passport as ID, and have a national driver’s licence and major credit card on hand.
The hop-on, hop-off Pachamama by Bus service is aimed at backpackers and is designed to cover the most scenic spots in the Lake District and the Atacama Desert. You purchase a pass for the number of days you wish to travel – a seven-day pass costs CH$162,000 – and you can stay at any of the given stops. There are weekly departures on both routes (2 2688 8018, pachamamabybus.com).
Hitchhiking remains popular in Chile, especially in rural areas, but it’s not an entirely safe method of travel. If you decide to hitch, it’s always best to do so at least in pairs.
Cycling can be a good way of getting to the more remote national parks, some of which are inaccessible by public transport. It’s a good idea to carry spare parts, although bike repair shops are found in most medium-sized towns. While in the south of Chile drinking water can typically be acquired from streams (though not in Tierra del Fuego, where giardia is widespread), in the northern half of the country it is highly advisable to carry your own, and essential if cycling anywhere in the arid Atacama region. There are few cycle lanes, and for the most part cyclists share the road with motorists; at least traffic outside cities tends to be light. Stray dogs can also be a nuisance in populated areas.
Chile has a good range of budget accommodation. Prices are highest during the peak season from December to February, when Chileans go on summer holiday; in shoulder seasons, they generally drop by around twenty percent. Many lodgings in the south of Chile close down during the winter months, so check ahead. Prices are normally listed inclusive of tax (or IVA: 19 percent) but it is best to establish this at the start of your stay; many hotels give foreigners the opportunity to pay in US dollars, which exempts you from paying IVA – they may need to be reminded of this.
Residenciales, cabañas and refugios
Residenciales are the most commonly available budget lodgings, found in both large cities and villages. Typically, they consist of furnished rooms in someone’s home, often with breakfast included; not surprisingly, the quality varies enormously. A basic double room costs about CH$20,000; single rooms can cost as much as two-thirds the price of doubles.
Cabañas are usually found in well-visited spots, particularly by the ocean. They tend to come with a fully equipped kitchen, bathroom and bedrooms, and can be a great option for those travelling in groups. Depending on the time of year, a cabaña for two people typically costs from CH$30,000.
Refugios are inexpensive (except in Torres del Paine National Park), bare-bones lodgings in national parks, usually consisting of several bunk beds in a wooden hut. Most have clean bedding, showers and flushable toilets; some require you to bring your own sleeping bag. They cost around CH$5000–15,000 per person. Many refugios stay open year-round, but if you are planning on wilderness trekking, or on travelling in the south of Chile in the winter, try to arrange lodgings by calling the local Conaf office (conaf.cl), Chile’s national forestry service, in advance; individual offices are listed on its website.
Hostels are plentiful, especially in well-visited cities and popular outdoor destinations; dorm beds generally cost CH$12,000-20,000. Some independent hostel groups compile booklets listing the best options, which are worth picking up. Backpackers Chile, for example (backpackerschile.com), offer a reliable benchmark for high-quality hostels. The booklet is available from any of the hostels listed on the site, and at major information offices. Also worth picking up is the Get South booklet (getsouth.com), which offers discounts for various hostels across Chile, as well as Argentina and Uruguay.
Most major cities and key tourist centres have a Hostelling International-affiliated hostel (hihostels.com), for which member discounts are available. HI hostels are not necessarily better than independent hostels, though they do tend to meet basic standards, so can be preferable to some budget hotels.
Note that in some widely visited places, such as Pucón and San Pedro de Atacama, a hostal may not necessarily mean a bona fide youth hostel – in many cases they are simply family homes.
Chile offers marvellous opportunities for camping, with a proliferation of both fully equipped campsites (which can be somewhat pricey) and beautiful wilderness spots. There is ample free camping on empty beaches, although in most national parks you should only camp in designated spots.
Chile has an abundance of fresh produce, but outside the bigger cities and tourist destinations food can be a bit bland, though pebre (a fairly spicy salsa served with bread) and ají chileno, served with barbecued meat, can liven things up. Breakfast (desayuno) consists of coffee and the ubiquitous pockmarked bread rolls with butter and jam. Lunch (almuerzo) is the main meal of the day, typically made up of three courses; most restaurants offer a good-value fixed-price lunch menú del día. Dinner (cena) is usually served late, rarely before 9pm, and in Chilean households is often replaced by a lighter late afternoon-evening snack (once). Restaurants generally open from around 7pm but don’t start to fill up until around 9pm.
Beef and chicken are the commonest meats, the former often served grilled with a fried egg on top (lomo a lo pobre) or as part of a parillada (mixed grill). Two dishes found on menus across the country are cazuela, a hearty meat casserole, and pastel de choclo, a sweet-tasting corn and beef pie. When in Patagonia, do not miss the asador patagónico, spit-roasted lamb (cordero) and wild boar (jabalí) steaks, while llama and alpaca steaks and stew are a staple of altiplano cuisine in the north of Chile. Both Chiloé and Easter Island serve up curanto, a hearty meat and seafood dish.
There is a fantastic range of fish and seafood. Fish are typically served frito (battered and deep-fried), or a la plancha (grilled) with different sauces, and sushi bars are springing up everywhere. Don’t miss the ceviche – raw fish marinated in lemon juice with coriander. Excellent seafood dishes include machas a la parmesana, baked razor clams covered with parmesan cheese, chupe de locos, creamy abalone casserole topped with breadcrumbs, and paila marina, seafood soup.
Some excellent vegetarian restaurants have appeared in recent years, but decent vegetarian cuisine may be hard to find outside major cities and tourist destinations. Delicious fruit and vegetables are abundant in most parts of Chile, barring Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. The north of the country grows exotic delights like scaly green chirimoya (custard apple), papaya, tuna (cactus fruit) and melon-like pepino dulce. Easter Island cuisine incorporates Polynesian tubers such as the camote (sweet potato).
Tap water is generally drinkable all over Chile, with the exception of the Atacama, though Santiago’s high mineral content upsets some stomachs. Mineral water is inexpensive and comes sin gas (still) or con gas (carbonated). Soft drinks (gaseosas or bebidas) are plentiful and very popular, and freshly squeezed fruit juices (jugos) are abundant, especially in the fertile region of Middle Chile; most Chileans like their juice sweetened, so if you don’t want a half-juice, half-sugar concoction, ask for it sin azúcar (without sugar). Licuados are fruit smoothies mixed with water or leche (milk). Mote con huesillo, a drink made from boiled, dried apricots, is popular, especially in Middle Chile.
Although things are improving, it can be surprisingly difficult to find real coffee (café de grano) in smaller towns, with Nescafé still unfathomably popular, but good coffee shops are springing up across Santiago and other cities. In the Lake District and Patagonia, thanks to the influence of Argentine culture, you will encounter yerba mate, an antioxidant-rich, energizing herb drunk from a gourd through a metal straw.
Chile has several generic lager beers including Escudo, Cristal and Austral; the best beers come from the rapidly expanding range of microbreweries. Chileans often start meals with a refreshing pisco sour, the national drink.
Chilean wine, renowned worldwide, features on many restaurant menus. Wine tourism is very popular, with the Rutas del Vino (Wine Routes) in the Maule and Colchagua valleys giving visitors easy access to both the process of wine-making and the sampling of many different varieties.
Chilean city lifestyle, superficially at least, has more similarities with Europe than with neighbouring Bolivia or Peru. Bargaining is not common and rarely done, even in marketplaces, though Chileans are often excellent at seeking out bargain prices. When eating out, a ten-percent tip in restaurants is normal and appreciated.
Chileans are family- and child-oriented, and young people tend to live with their parents until they get married. The predominant religion is Catholicism, though the Church is not as influential as it used to be. Machismo is not as prevalent here as in other parts of Latin America; women are more respected and a lone woman travelling around the country is not likely to encounter any trouble beyond catcalls. While homosexuality is still frowned upon, it is tolerated, and there is a thriving LGBTQ scene in larger cities.
Chileans are very sociable and will go out of their way to greet you in the street if they know you. If arranging to go out with Chileans, be aware that they may turn up later than the arranged time. When it comes to topics of conversation, Pinochet’s brutal rule often provokes a heated discussion.
Prices at some restaurants in places like Santiago and Valparaíso can give the impression that you have to break the bank to enjoy good food in Chile, but there are cheaper options.
In coastal towns, you can pick up superb fish at bargain prices at little marisquerías, rustic fish eateries usually found at the busiest point of the seafront. In most large cities, look out for the market area where you’ll get excellent deals on fruit and vegetables.
Small kiosks along city streets and country roads will often sell delicious and filling snacks like empanadas (savoury pasties filled with meat or fish) and humitas (ground corn wrapped in leaves).
American-style diners and home-grown fast-food chains across Chile sell huge completes, hot dogs, and italianos, hot dogs covered in mayonnaise, ketchup and avocado, as well as a range of sandwiches, like barros jarpa (melted cheese and ham), as alternative cheap eats.
While Chile is not quite in the same league as Argentina or Brazil when it comes to football, the game is taken very seriously and attending a live match in Santiago is worthwhile for the atmosphere alone. Be aware, though, that the passion for football can turn aggressive, and be ready to make an exit. Santiago team Colo Colo has the largest and most enthusiastic following.
Every year, more than three hundred rodeos are staged during the season (Sept–May) in Middle Chile and Aisén in particular. Evolved from the rural huaso (cowboy) culture, the rodeo is a spectacle worth going out of your way for.
La cueca, Chile’s national dance, is also firmly rooted in huaso culture; it re-enacts the courting ritual between a rooster and a hen. Men and women clad in traditional outfits dance largely to guitar-led ballads, though the tempo and the instruments vary from region to region. La cueca is most commonly seen during the Chilean independence celebrations in September, when troupes perform on streets and stages across the country, though Chileans often take little persuading to show off their beloved dance whatever the opportunity.
In March 2017, Tompkins Conservation and President Michelle Bachelet signed an historic agreement to expand the area protected by national parks by more than 40,000 square kilometres – roughly the size of Switzerland. The private foundation donated more than 4000 square kilometres, the largest gift of its kind in South America, while the government committed almost 36,000 square kilometres of state-owned land. New parks will be created and existing ones expanded; eventually the government aims to develop a 1500km-long Ruta de los Parques (Route of Parks), a tourist trail through seventeen linked parks. In a separate move, later in 2017, the government also created a new marine reserve around Easter Island: the Rapa Nui Rahui Marine Protected Area spans some 740,000 square kilometres and protects dozens of endemic species.
The mighty rivers of the Lake District and Patagonia offer excellent whitewater rafting and kayaking, with Río Trancura, Río Petrohué and Río Futaleufú offering class V challenges. Futaleufú in particular is hailed as one of the top white-water runs in the world.
Sea kayakers can choose between multi-day paddling in the Patagonian fjords, shorter trips to small islands off the coast of Chiloé and wildlife-viewing on Isla Damas near La Serena.
Surfers head to Chile’s top spot, Pichilemu, just south of Santiago, though there are excellent surfing and windsurfing opportunities all along the coast north of the capital, around Iquique in particular, and year-round swells on Easter Island.
In the northern half of the country, lack of rain makes for good visibility and abundant marine life for divers and snorkellers, while Easter Island has world-class dive spots.
Hiking in the Torres del Paine National Park, on Isla Navarino or anywhere in the south is limited to the summer, spring and autumn, but the rest of Chile can be visited at any time of year. There are currently 65 Rutas Patrimoniales bienesnacionales.cl) covering the whole of Chile as part of a government initiative to preserve and develop land that has natural and historical value. These can all be explored on foot, by bike or on horseback. Another ambitious project, Sendero de Chile (senderodechile.cl), consists of 35 trail sections intended to span the whole of Chile, including its Pacific islands. Once completed, it will become the longest trekking route in the world, but progress is currently slow.
Ice climbers will find excellent climbing routes in the Central and Patagonian Andes from November to March, with plenty of accessible glaciers, while the granite towers of Torres del Paine rank among the world’s most challenging rock climbs. Middle Chile and the Lake District, however, have the greatest variety of climbing and mountaineering spots.
Along with Argentina, Chile has world-class powder snow, with some of the best skiing spots found within easy reach of Santiago. The Lake District’s Villarica-Pucón and Osorno give you the opportunity to whizz down the slopes of volcanoes.
Spectacular cycling terrain can be found from Norte Grande to Tierra del Fuego, though you will need a sturdy mountain bike to cope with the potholed trails. While the best time to cycle around much of Chile is between October and March, Norte Chico and Norte Grande can be explored year-round, though altitude is often a consideration, especially if you’re planning on exploring Parque Nacional Lauca. Norte Chico offers easy and enjoyable coastal rides, while the Lake District and Chiloé have the greatest variety of cycling routes, and the Carretera Austral is a challenging undertaking that rewards with amazing scenery.
Internet/wi-fi is widely available across Chile and provided by virtually all hotels, hostels, and restaurants. Most towns and villages have internet cafés, where access costs around CH$300–600/hr, although on Isla Navarino and Easter Island it is considerably pricier (and slower).
Chile has a number of different telecoms operators, and in order to make an international call, you dial the three-digit carrier code of the telecom, followed by 0, then the country code and finally the phone number itself. Most local numbers consist of seven or eight digits, preceded by the city/area code; if dialling from the same area, drop the city or area code and dial the six or seven digits directly. In 2013, the government rolled out a new numbering system, adding a 2 to the start of every fixed-line number; some businesses have still not updated their details. Mobile phone numbers are eight digits and start with a 9, 8, 7, 6 or 5; if you’re phoning from a landline, you need to use the prefix “09”. Calls abroad from the numerous centros de llamadas to most European countries and North America cost around CH$150–250/min, although prices vary from area to area. Many internet cafés in Chile are Skype-equipped. Alternatively, get an inexpensive Chilean SIM card for an “unlocked” mobile phone; to do this, annoyingly, you now need to register (for free) online – visit multibanda.cl for more information.
Overseas mail sent from any part of Chile via Correos de Chile, the national postal service, generally takes two or three weeks to reach its destination. Important shipping to Chile is best sent via registered mail.
Chile Travel chile.travel. Official government tourist site.
Latin America Bureau lab.org.uk. Well-respected UK-based charity with news and analysis from across the region, including Chile.
Santiago Times santiagotimes.cl. English-language newspaper, based in the capital.
Turismo Chile chiletourism.travel. Info on Chile’s major attractions, with some historical and cultural background.
The risk of violent crime in Chile is very low; in larger cities pickpocketing and petty thievery are minor concerns, but assaults are practically unknown, and there is very little corruption among Chilean police.
There are no compulsory vaccinations for Chile, though there have been reported incidents of mosquito-borne dengue fever on Easter Island; use insect repellent. Hantavirus, caused by inhaling or ingesting rat droppings, is uncommon but deadly: when staying in rural buildings that could potentially have rodents, air them out thoroughly and do not sleep on the floor. Chile has two species of spider with a venomous and potentially dangerous bite: the black widow (found in parts of Torres del Paine National Park, among other areas) and the Chilean recluse spider (found throughout Chile). The recluse – or araña del rincón, literally “corner spider” – is commonly found in houses. Though bites from either spider are relatively rare, they can prove fatal – if you think you may have been bitten, seek medical help immediately.
Official Sernatur tourist offices (Servicio Nacionalde Turismo; sernatur.cl) are found in all the major cities and towns. They produce a plethora of brochures on local attractions, accommodation and outdoor activities, though some are better stocked than others. Some regions also have a municipal tourism office run by the regional authorities. For information on Chile’s natural attractions, as well as maps and up-to-date trekking conditions for specific areas, you should head to the local Conaf office (Corporación Nacional Forestal; conaf.cl), again found in most towns.
JLM Cartografía maps are usually accurate and helpful, and can be found in most bookshops; they cover both cities and trekking routes in Chile. The Instituto Geográfico Militar (igm.cl) produces detailed topographic maps of the entire country, but they can be pricey.
Air rescue (for mountaineering accidents) 138
Ambulance 131
Coastguard 137
Fire 132
Investigaciónes (for serious crimes) 134
Police 133
The peso is the basic unit of Chilean currency, and it comes in 1000, 5000, 10,000 and rare 20,000 denomination notes, and 10, 20, 50, 100 and 500 peso coins. It is usually represented with the $ sign, not to be confused with US$. Few places will accept US dollars or other foreign currencies, though some hostels and hotels may suggest you pay in dollars to avoid the nineteen percent IVA tax (value added tax) on accommodation, from which foreigners are exempted when paying in dollars (a small, though increasing, number allow you to do this by credit/debit card too). Chile is fairly expensive compared to most other Latin American countries, with prices comparable to those in North America and Europe.
At the time of writing, the exchange rate was £1 = CH$837; US$1 = CH$627 and €1 = CH$738.
Large and medium-sized cities have plentiful banks and ATMs; Banco de Chile and Santander are good bets for withdrawing cash with debit cards. Santiago and most of the more visited destinations have casas de cambio which can change travellers’ cheques and foreign currencies at a reasonable rate. Some smaller towns only have Banco Estado ATMs, which generally accept only Cirrus and MasterCard. If you are heading to small towns off the beaten track, it’s wise to carry enough cash to cover a few days as ATMs are not always reliable. Credit cards can also be widely used to pay for purchases, especially in larger towns, though budget lodgings and eating places rarely accept them.
ISIC International Student or Youth cards can get you reduced airfares to Chile with travel agencies such as STA Travel. Some museums offer reduced student rates. It may also be possible to get reduced bus fares with certain bus companies; enquire in advance. Having a Hostelling International (HI) card is very worthwhile, since you can get member discounts in a network of hostels around Chile.
On weekdays, most services and shops tend to be open from 9 or 10am to 6 or 7pm; Saturday hours are usually 10 or 11am to 2pm. In smaller towns, restaurants are often closed in the afternoon between the lunchtime hours of 1 to 3pm and the dinnertime hours of 8 to 11pm. An increasing number of restaurants, bars and shops open on Sundays, but smaller places, particularly in more rural areas, generally remain closed.
Banks typically operate from 9am to 2pm on weekdays only, while post offices generally open Monday to Friday from 9am to 6pm; in larger towns, they also open Saturdays from 9am to 1pm. Monday is a day off for most museums; they are, however, usually open on Sundays, often with free entry. Shops and services are closed during national holidays, local festivals and on local and national election days.
January 1 New Year’s Day (Año Nuevo)
Easter (Semana Santa) national holidays on Good Friday, Holy Saturday and Easter Sunday
May 1 Labour Day (Día del Trabajo)
May 21 Navy Day (Día de las Glorias Navales) marking Chile’s naval victory at Iquique during the War of the Pacific
June 29 St Peter and St Paul (San Pedro y San Pablo)
July 16 Our Lady of Mount Carmel (Solemnidad de la Virgen del Carmen, Reina y Patrona de Chile)
August 15 Assumption of the Virgin Mary (Asunción de la Virgen)
September 17 If it falls on a Monday, an extension of Independence celebrations
September 18 National Independence Day (Fiestas Patrias) celebrates Chile’s proclamation of independence from Spain in 1810
September 19 Armed Forces Day (Día del Ejército)
September 20 If it falls on a Friday, an extension of Independence celebrations
October 12 Columbus Day (Día del Descubrimiento de Dos Mundos) celebrates the European discovery of the Americas
November 1 All Saints’ Day (Día de Todos los Santos)
December 8 Immaculate Conception (Inmaculada Concepción)
December 25 Christmas Day (Navidad)
January 20 San Sebastián. Spaniards brought the first wooden image of San Sebastián to Chile in the seventeenth century. After a Mapuche raid on Chillán, the image was buried in a field, and no one was able to raise it. The saint’s feast day is now an important Mapuche festival.
February 1–3 La Candelaria. Celebrated since 1780, when a stone image of the Virgin and Child was discovered during a thunderstorm in the Atacama. Typical festivities include processions and traditional dances.
End of February Festival Internacional de la Canción. Popular five-day festival held in Viña del Mar, featuring performers from across Latin America.
Easter Semana Santa (Holy Week). Among the nationwide Easter celebrations, look out for Santiago’s solemn procession of penitents dressed in black habits, carrying crosses.
May 13 Procesión del Cristo de Mayo. A huge parade through Santiago bearing the sixteenth-century Cristo de Mayo carving.
June 13 Noche de San Juan Bautista. An important feast celebrated by families with a giant stew, the Estofado de San Juan.
June 29 Fiesta de San Pedro. Fishermen decorate their boats and take the image of their patron saint out to sea to pray for good weather and large catches.
July 12–18 Virgen de la Tirana. Chile’s largest religious festival, held in La Tirana in the far north, and attended by more than eighty thousand pilgrims and hundreds of costumed dancers.
August 21–31 Jesús Nazareno de Caguach. Thousands of Chilotes flock to the archipelago’s tiny island of Caguach to worship at a 2m-high figure of Christ.
First Sunday of October Virgen de las Peñas. Dance groups and more than ten thousand pilgrims from Chile, Peru, Bolivia and Argentina visit a rock carving of the Virgin in the Azapa Valley, near Arica.
November 1 Todos los Santos (All Saints’ Day). Traditionally the day when Chileans tend their family graves.
November 2 Día de los Muertos (All Souls’ Day). A second vigil to the dead is held in cemeteries, with offerings of food and wine sprinkled on the graves.
December 8 La Purísima. Celebrated in many parts of Chile, the festival of the Immaculate Conception is at its liveliest in San Pedro de Atacama.
December 23–27 Fiesta Grande de la Virgen de Andacollo. More than 100,000 pilgrims come to Andacollo, in Norte Chico, to worship its Virgin and watch masked dancers.
Towered over by the snow-streaked Andes, SANTIAGO has a distinctly European feel. Its rich pockets of culture and history are often overlooked by travellers frustrated by a lack of iconic sights, and put off by the smog that often hangs over the city. Yet those prepared to venture beyond the grid of central shopping streets will be rewarded with quirky, vibrant neighbourhoods filled with a huge variety of lively bars and excellent restaurants. The city is a microcosm of the country’s contrasting ways of life, with ramshackle markets, smart office buildings, rough-and-ready bars and plush shopping malls all just a short metro ride from the main square.
Home to more than a quarter of Chile’s population, the capital is crowded but easy to navigate with a clean and efficient metro system. And even if the city itself fails to impress, Santiago is an excellent base from which to explore, with world-class ski resorts, sun-kissed beaches and beautiful vineyards all within easy reach.
Downtown Santiago is loosely bordered by the Río Mapocho to the north, and the central thoroughfare of Avenida Libertador Bernado O’Higgins – commonly known as La Alameda – to the south. The city’s accommodation and most inviting barrios are all a short distance from this central section. Bohemian Barrio Lastarria is home to a wealth of art museums, cool restaurants and boutique shops with bags of character. North of the river, grungy Barrio Bellavista offers buzzing nightlife as well as the city’s best viewpoint at Cerro San Cristóbal. In the west, down-to-earth Barrio Brasil and Barrio Yungay are home to many budget hostels and good-value restaurants, while out east, the tree-lined streets of upmarket Providencia and plush Las Condes are pocketed with luxury hotels and shopping malls.
Pedro de Valdivia, the city’s founder, intended the lush tree-studded Plaza de Armas to be a centrepiece for Chile, surrounding it with splendid colonial architecture. The oldest building is the Catedral Metropolitana (1748), on the west side of the plaza, its Neoclassical facade designed by the Italian architect Joaquín Toesca. To the north is the Palacio de la Real Audiencia (1804), housing the Museo Histórico Nacional, and the Correo Central. A lively gathering point since the mid-1800s, the plaza’s flower gardens and the fountain in the centre honouring Simón Bolívar attract a multitude of chess players, street performers, vagrants, stray dogs, soap-box preachers and strolling families, making the square an ideal place to linger on a bench and people-watch.
By the south bank of Río Mapocho lies the lively Mercado Central (daily 6am–4pm), a mass of stalls spilling over with wondrous fish and seafood, dotted with busy little marisquerías whose delicious smells draw crowds of customers at lunchtime. All of this is gathered inside an elaborate metal structure prefabricated in Birmingham, England, and erected in Santiago in 1868. Cross the Río Mapocho and you reach La Vega (daily: roughly 6am–5pm), an enormous roofed market surrounded by outdoor stalls, selling all kinds of fresh produce, with fruit and vegetables at rock-bottom prices. La Vega is full of local character, giving you a glimpse of “real” Santiago: fragrant, pungent and chaotic. It’s also the best place in town to grab a giant fruit smoothie, as well as excellent seafood.
Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino
The excellent Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; CH$4500; 2 2928 1500, museoprecolombino.cl), at Bandera 361, is housed in the elegant late-colonial Real Casa de Aduana (Royal Customs House, 1807). The unparalleled collection of pre-Columbian artefacts spans around ten thousand years and covers the whole of Latin America, from Mexico down to the south of Chile. More than 1500 examples of pottery, finely woven textiles and jewellery are on display, including permanent collections from the Andes, Mesoamerica, the Amazon and the Caribbean, and there are outstanding temporary exhibitions.
The restored Palacio de la Moneda, (2 2690 4000) on the large Plaza de la Constitución, is the presidential palace and site of the dramatic siege that brought Pinochet to power on September 11, 1973, and led to the death of President Salvador Allende. A wide, squat Neoclassical construction, originally built to house the Royal Mint, the palace stages an elaborate changing of the guard on alternating days at 10am (weekdays) or 11am (weekends), featuring white-jacketed officers, cavalry and an inspired brass band. The palace’s inner courtyards can be accessed through the North Gate (Mon–Fri 10am–6pm), and the basement features a huge relief map of Chile that allows visitors to get an accurate impression of the country’s size. There are four free tours each day (
visitas@presidencia.cl) – take your passport. The Centro Cultural Palacio La Moneda (daily 9am–8.30pm; exhibitions CH$5000, half-price Mon–Fri before noon; ccplm.cl), a smart, arty space, is home to exhibitions, craft shops and cafés and is accessed by steps to the left and right of the palace’s main frontage.
Starting half a dozen blocks northwest of Palacio de la Moneda, Barrio Brasil is centred around the nicely landscaped Plaza Brasil, with a surreal-looking playground and a tall monkey puzzle tree reaching for the sky. In the early twentieth century this was a prestigious residential neighbourhood; now its elegant streets have faded and it has morphed into a lively area with good restaurants and bars, popular with backpackers and Santiago’s students.
Cerro Santa Lucía and Barrio Lastarria
Six blocks east of Palacio de la Moneda along the Alameda, Santiago’s main thoroughfare (officially Avenida Libertador Bernardo O’Higgins), the splendidly landscaped Cerro Santa Lucía (Dec–Feb 9am–8pm, March–Nov 9am–7pm; free), is the historically significant promontory where Pedro de Valdivia defeated the indigenous forces (to whom it is known as Huelén – “the curse”), and where Santiago was officially founded on February 12, 1541. The barren hill was transformed into a lush retreat through the labour of 150 prisoners in the 1870s. The park’s peaceful winding footpaths and the ornate Terraza Neptuno fountain draw amorous couples, while visitors take the steep footpaths to the top to be rewarded with panoramic views of the city. Immediately to the north and east, Barrio Lastarria is a haven for hip restaurants and bars.
It’s hard to believe that the tranquil green space of the Parque Forestal, stretching along the Río Mapocho’s south bank, was once a floodplain covered in rubbish dumps. Top attraction here is the grand and airy Neoclassical Palacio de Bellas Artes, housing the Museo de Bellas Artes (Tues–Sun 10am–6.45pm; free; 2 2499 1632, mnba.cl), which features paintings, sculptures, prints and drawings by predominantly Chilean artists. The Museo de Arte Contemporáneo, or MAC (same hours and price; 2 2977 1741, mac.uchile.cl), on the other side of the building, offers temporary modern art exhibitions, some of them interactive, by cutting-edge national and international artists.
Crossing the Pío Nono bridge brings you to Barrio Bellavista, the trendy bohemian neighbourhood at the foot of Cerro San Cristóbal, the city’s second-largest hill. Home to some of Santiago’s best bars, Bellavista really comes into its own on weekends. There are also several good nightclubs and raucous beer-and-burger joints lining Pío Nono, the main street. You’ll find La Chascona, one of the three residences of Chile’s most famous poet, Pablo Neruda, down a little side street (Márquez de la Plata 0192; Tues–Sun: Jan & Feb 10am–7pm; March–Dec 10am–6pm; CH$7000; 2 2777 8712, fundacionneruda.org). Named after Neruda’s wife Matilde, “the tangle-haired woman”, the house is faithful to the nautical theme that characterizes all his residences, its creaking floorboards resembling those of a ship and strangely shaped rooms filled with a lifetime of curios. The ticket price includes a worthwhile self-guided audio tour, available in English.
A path winds up from Barrio Bellavista’s Plaza Caupolicán to Terraza Bellavista or you can save some shoe leather by taking the funicular railway (Tues–Sun: Jan & Feb 10am–7.45pm, March–Dec 10am–6.45pm; return CH$2000 Mon–Fri, CH$2600 Sat & Sun), to reach Cerro San Cristóbal. There is also the newly reopened cable car that ascends to near the summit from Providencia (Tues–Sun: Jan & Feb 10am–8pm, March–Dec 10am–7pm; return CH$2510 Mon–Fri, CH$3010 Sat & Sun; 2 2730 1331, parquemet.cl). From Terraza Bellavista you walk up to the hill’s summit, crowned with a huge statue of the Virgen de la Immaculada Concepción and offering excellent views of the city, though the outlying neighbourhoods might be clouded in a gentle haze of smog. The many dirt tracks running along the forested hillsides offer excellent mountain-biking opportunities, while walking down the spiralling road brings you to Piscina Tupahue (mid-Nov to mid-March Tues–Sun 10am–7.30pm; CH$6000), a popular open-air swimming pool and picnicking spot amid monkey puzzle trees. You can either return by the same route or continue down to Pedro de Valdivia metro station in Providencia.
The attractive, tree-lined streets of chic Providencia are home to an increasing number of hotels, businesses and restaurants. At its eastern edge, where it morphs into the even more expensive Las Condes, you’ll find a busy business and dining district known as Sanhattan, or El Golf. The shiny new skyscrapers here are symbolic of Chile’s rapid development in recent years, particularly the 300m-high Gran Torre Santiago, Latin America’s tallest building, which dominates the skyline and offers 360º vistas from its viewing platform, Sky Costanera (daily 10am–10pm; CH$15,000; 2 2916 9269, skycostanera.cl). At its base is the Costanera Center, one of the continent’s biggest shopping malls.
“Never again” – remembering the crimes of the Pinochet era
The large and excellent Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos at Matucana 501 (Tues–Sun: Jan & Feb 10am–8pm, March–Dec 10am–6pm; free; 2 2579 9600, museodelamemoria.cl; Metro Quinta Normal) documents the chilling human rights abuses, repression and censorship that occurred between 1973 and 1990 under the Pinochet dictatorship.
Another memorial to the victims of the regime is Villa Grimaldi at Av José Arrieta 8401, a former secret torture and extermination centre now transformed into a Park for Peace (daily 10am–6pm; free; guided tours Tues–Fri at 10.30am, noon & 3pm; 2 2292 5229, villagrimaldi.cl). The buildings here were destroyed in an attempt to erase any evidence of the centre’s existence, but among a series of memorials to its victims are explanations of the site’s original layout. To get there, take bus #513, or #D09, or go to Metro Plaza Egaña and get a taxi (about CH$7500).
Southeast of central Santiago, the laidback neighbourhood of Ñuñoa, with the attractive Plaza Ñuñoa at its heart, is overlooked by many visitors to the city, though it has a lively nightlife thanks to two nearby university campuses. Football fans also flock here to watch the matches at the Estadio Nacional, at Avenida Grecia 2001. The stadium has a grim past – it was once used by Pinochet as a torture centre and prison.
Attractions around Santiago include wineries, thermal baths, the outdoor enthusiast’s paradise of the mountainous Cajón del Maipo valley, and more.
Andina del Sud Av El Golf 99, 2nd floor 2 2388 0101, andinadelsud.com. This agency is good for booking inexpensive domestic and international flights, and also offers holidays and guided trips throughout Chile and neighbouring countries aimed at younger travellers. Four-night Easter Island package US$600.
La Bicicleta Verde Loreto 6, at Av Santa María, Bellavista 2 2570 9338, labicicletaverde.com. See Santiago at a different pace with a range of bike tours in the city, and around nearby vineyards. Also arranges bike rental. Afternoon tour of Santiago’s highlights CH$25,000/person.
Monteagudo Aventura 2 2346 9069, monteagudoaventura.cl. Experienced outfit running full-day horseriding and white-water rafting trips in the Cajón del Maipo, as well as treks to the San Francisco and Morado glaciers and night excursions to the Colina thermal baths. Full-day horseriding including an asado (barbecue) CH$90,000/person.
By plane Aeropuerto Arturo Merino Benítez (2 2690 1752, aeropuertosantiago.cl), 30min from the city centre, has ATMs, currency exchange and a tourist information kiosk. The two airport bus services from just outside the terminal are the cheapest way to get to the city centre: Centropuerto (daily 6am–11.30pm, every 10min; CH$1800 one-way; centropuerto.cl) terminates at Los Héroes metro station, while Tur Bus runs to Terminal Alameda (see below; daily 5am–midnight every 20min, midnight–5am hourly; CH$1800; 2 2822 7448). Both services also call at intermediate stops, including Pajaritos, useful for connections to Valparaiso and the coastal resorts. TransVip (2 2677 3000, transvip.cl) charge from CH$10,000 to drop you off directly at your destination.
Destinations LATAM and Sky Airline have multiple daily flights to all major Chilean destinations: Arica (8–10 daily; 2hr 40min); Calama (12–15 daily; 2hr); Iquique (12–16 daily; 2hr 30min); La Serena (6–9 daily; 1hr); Puerto Montt (12–15 daily; 1hr 45min); Punta Arenas (8–12 daily; 3hr 30min).
By train The only train services run south from Santiago to the Central Valley, all departing from the Estación Central. For train information, call 600 585 5000 or check efe.cl.
Destinations Chillán (3 daily; 5hr 30min); Curicó (3 daily; 2hr 45min); Rancagua (10 daily; 1hr 30min); San Fernando (6 daily; 2hr); Talca (3 daily; 3hr 30min).
By bus The main bus station is Terminal Santiago, also known as Terminal de Estación Central (2 2376 1755), at Alameda 3850, near the Universidad de Santiago metro station, which handles international routes, and journeys to the west and south. The Terminal Alameda, next door at Alameda 3750 (2 2822 7400), is served by Pullman and Tur Bus, who also have some international departures. The two terminals have ATMs, snack shops and luggage storage, as well as easy access to public transport along Alameda. Buses from northern and central Chile use Terminal San Borja (2 2776 0645), at San Borja 184, near the Estación Central metro station, while the smaller Terminal Los Héroes, at Tucapel Jiménez 21 (2 2420 0099), near Los Heroés metro station, serves a range of destinations in both northern and southern Chile.
Destinations Arica (hourly; 30hr); Chillán (every 30min–1hr; 5hr); Copiapó (4–6 daily; 10hr); Iquique (hourly; 24hr); La Serena (hourly; 6hr 30min); Pucón (every 30min; 12hr); Puerto Montt (every 30min; 14hr); Rancagua (every 15min; 1hr); Valparaíso and Viña del Mar (every 10–15min; 1hr 45min). Terminal Buses Estación Central has international departures to various South American countries including Argentina (Buenos Aires, Mendoza), Brazil (Saõ Paulo, Río de Janeiro) and Peru (Lima, Cusco, Tacna, Arequipa).
Tourist information An excellent source of tourist information is the municipal tourism office on the north side of the Plaza de Armas (Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4pm; 2 2713 6745, turismo@munistgo.cl). The main Sernatur office is 3km east at Av Providencia 1550, near the Manuel Montt metro station, (Jan & Feb daily 9am–9pm; March–Dec Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–2pm; 2 2731 8336, sernatur.cl). It provides maps of the city and is well stocked with brochures on the surrounding area. Conaf has an office at Av Bulnes 265 (Mon–Thurs 9am–5.30pm, Fri 9am–4.30pm; 2 2663 0125, conaf.cl), which provides information on national parks and reserves, as well as some pamphlets and inexpensive maps.
Listings For entertainment listings, check Friday’s El Mercurio or La Tercera, Santiago’s main newspapers.
Tours Free walking tours of the city’s main sights are provided by the local authorities daily at 10am (enquire at the municipal tourist office). Bike tours are also a good option.
By bus Fleets of “TranSantiago” (www.transantiago.cl) buses run around the city. To use them, you need to purchase a “BIP” transit card (CH$1550), sold in most metro ticket booths, which you can then add credit to (at BIP centres across the city). Bus destinations are posted on window signs and at marked stops; fares start at CH$630, depending on the time of day and number of transfers (maximum two changes up to 2hr).
By colectivo Roughly the same price as buses, colectivos have their destinations displayed on their roofs and carry passengers on fixed itineraries, reaching their destination quicker than regular transport, though you need to know where you are going; useful for destinations outside the city centre.
By metro The metro (Mon–Fri 6am–11pm, Sat 6.30am–11pm, Sun 9am–10.30pm; metrosantiago.cl) is the quickest way to get around the city, with just six lines that are easy to navigate, though it gets rather cramped during rush hour and does not serve all neighbourhoods. BIP cards (see above) are also the only way to use the metro, with each journey costing CH$610–740 depending on the time of day.
There are a number of accommodation options in Santiago to suit budget travellers although really cheap places are scarce. Good inexpensive lodgings are mostly to be found in the city centre and Barrio Brasil.
Treat yourself
Río Amazonas Vicuňa Mackenna 47, Metro Baquedano 2 2635 1631, hostalrioamazonas.cl; map. Travellers of all ages flock to this charming hostal, next to the Argentine embassy. Each room has a private bathroom (and often a bath), colourful decor, phone, TV and plenty of space. The communal areas are attractive, and light meals are available. CH$58,000
EcoHostel General Jofré 349B, Metro Universidad Católica 2 2222 6833, ecohostel.cl; map. With its clean and spacious dorms, chilled-out common areas and fully equipped guest kitchen, this hostel and its environment-friendly ethic attracts mostly younger travellers. Lockers, good breakfast and knowledgeable, bilingual staff are a big plus. Dorms CH$10,000, doubles CH$27,000
París 813 París 813, Metro Universidad de Chile 2 2664 0921, hotelparis813.com; map. Decent low-cost hotel offering a range of slightly old-fashioned rooms, with TVs and private bathrooms; the older ones sometimes lack outside windows so unless pesos are really tight, opt for one in the newer annexe. CH$28,000
Plaza de Armas Compañía 960, apartment 607, Metro Plaza de Armas 2 2671 4436, plazadearmashostel.com; map. This gem of a hostel, on the sixth floor of a building hidden within an alleyway filled with fast-food joints, has a prime location on the Plaza de Armas. There are bright dorms, colourful if compact private rooms, ample communal space and a terrace with fine views. Dorms CH$8,000, doubles CH$15,000
La Casa Roja Agustinas 2113, Metro República 2 2695 0600, lacasaroja.cl; map. Sprawling, Aussie-owned converted mansion firmly established as backpacker party central, with spacious dorms and rooms. There’s a jacuzzi, pool with swim-up bar, large common areas, free internet, kitchen and an on-site travel agency. A top budget choice, though not a place to catch up on your sleep; breakfast not included in dorms. Dorms CH$8000, doubles CH$27,000
Hostel Cienfuegos Cienfuegos 151, Metro Los Héroes 2 2671 8532, hostelcienfuegos.cl; map. Large, professionally run, HI-affiliated hostel with clean dorms, plush bunk beds, spacious dining room and bonuses including a book exchange, breakfast and laundry service. Dorms CH$10,500, doubles CH$25,000
Happy House Hostel Moneda 1829, Metro Los Héroes 2 2688 4849, happyhousehostel.cl; map. Travellers are made to feel really welcome at this beautifully decorated, spacious hostel, with large private rooms, attractive common areas, large kitchen, terrace bar and pool. Breakfast and internet included. Dorms CH$13,000, doubles CH$34,000
Princesa Insolente Moneda, Barrio Brasil, Metro Républica 2350 2 2671 6551, princesainsolentehostel.cl; map. This popular and sociable hostel has clean and economical private rooms, three- to ten-bed dorms, a TV lounge and a patio. The cheerful staff members host regular barbecues. Dorms CH$8000, doubles CH$30,000
Andes Hostel Monjitas 506, Metro Bellas Artes 2 2632 9990, andeshostel.com; map. Centrally located hostel with modern decor, bright dorms with individual lockers, and a whole range of facilities – guest kitchen, lounge with pool table and cable TV, free internet, laundry service and a fully stocked bar. Can get noisy. Dorms CH$13,000, doubles CH$48,000, apartments CH$50,000
Hostal Forestal Coronel Santiago Bueras 122, Metro Baquedano 2 2638 1347, hostalforestal.cl; map. Perpetually popular, Hostal Forestal throws impromptu barbecues and the bilingual staff can advise on sightseeing. Luggage storage, outdoor patio, guest kitchen and lounge with cable TV are some of the perks. Dorms CH$10,000, doubles CH$40,000
Treat yourself
Boragó Nueva Costanera 3467, Vitacura 2 2953 8893, borago.cl; map. Considered one of Latin America’s best restaurants, the chefs here use native ingredients to whip up an inventive and delicious multi-course tasting menu (from CH$43,000), pairing the dishes with appropriate local wines. Reservations required. Mon–Sat 8–11pm.
Bellavista Hostel Dardignac 0184, Metro Baquedano 2 2899 7145, bellavistahostel.com; map. It’s easy to see why this hostel is extremely popular with younger travellers – a stone’s throw from some of Santiago’s best nightlife, it’s cosy, colourful, run by helpful bilingual staff and has all the standard backpacker conveniences. Dorms CH$8000, doubles CH$24,000
Casa Mosaico Loreto 109, Metro Bellas Artes 2 2671 2008, casamosaicohostel.cl; map. Just a few blocks from the nightlife action but quiet enough for a good night’s sleep, this gaily painted hostel offers a range of six- or eight-bed dorms, plus en-suite singles and doubles. Activities include barbecues and dance classes. Dorms CH$10,000, doubles CH$30,000
Santiago has a proliferation of good restaurants. Most of the better ones are concentrated in Barrio Lastarria and Providencia, with some cheap options, popular with backpackers and students, in Bellavista, Barrio Brasil and up-and-coming Barrio Yungay.
Emporio La Rosa Merced 291; map. Coffee and ice-cream haven with tables out onto the street. The hot chocolate comes highly recommended. One ice-cream scoop from CH$2100. Mon–Thurs 8am–9pm, Fri 8am–10pm, Sat 9am–10pm, Sun 9am–9pm.
Mercado Central Puente, at San Pablo; map. The best place for large portions of inexpensive fish and seafood, the fish market’s bustling eateries offer such delights as pastel de jaiva (creamy crab pie; CH$5000) and machas a la Parmesana (CH$4500); Donde Augusto is a popular spot. Daily; lunch only.
Ramen Kintaro Monjitas 460, kintaro.cl; map. This clean, modern Japanese joint has reinvented itself as a ramen house, with meal deals for CH$6000–7000. Sit at the counter and watch the chefs at work. Mon–Fri 12.30–3pm & 7.30–11pm, Sat 7.30–11.30pm.
El Rápido Bandera 371; map. Perfectly prepared empanadas and sandwiches, served at a snack counter rather than a restaurant. Empanadas from CH$1100. Mon–Fri 9am–9pm, Sat 9am–3.30pm.
Barrio Brasil and Barrio Yungay
Charro de Oro Av Ricardo Cumming 342A; map. Spicy and inexpensive Mexican quesadillas (from CH$4500) and burritos served in an intimate, no-frills setting; happy hour until 9pm. Tues–Sat 5.30pm–late, Sun noon–late.
Ocean Pacific’s Av Ricardo Cumming 221, oceanpacifics.cl; map. Popular restaurant serving consistently good fish dishes (though not the cheapest), including an excellent salmon platter for two, with a backdrop of elaborate nautical decoration. Mains CH$7000–9000. Daily noon–11.30pm.
Peluquería Francesa Compañia de Jesús 2789 2 2682 5243; map. Take a trip back in time at this charming restaurant above a nineteenth-century hair salon, where each table literally bursts with quirky memorabilia. Excellent French cuisine (coq au vin CH$8500), and good cocktails. Mon–Fri 10am–8pm, Sat 10am–2pm, Sun 11am–5pm.
Peperone Huérfanos 1954; map. Excellent empanadería dishing out baked empanadas with myriad fillings, including scallops. Cheese and crab empanada CH$1500. Mon–Sat lunch only.
Las Vacas Gordas Cienfuegos 280 2 2697 1066; map. Probably the best restaurant for carnivores in the city, with steaks such as wagyu beef grilled to perfection at very reasonable prices (from CH$8000). Extremely popular, especially on weekends. Mon–Sat 12.30pm–12.30am, Sun 12.30–5pm.
Ciudad Vieja Constitución 92; map. This cool sanguchería turns sandwich-making into an art form: varieties (around CH$5000) include teriyaki chicken, suckling pig, fried merluza (hake) and the chivito, Uruguay’s take on the steak sandwich. There’s an extensive range of artisanal beers, too. Tues 12.30pm–1am, Wed 12.30pm–1.30am, Thurs 12.30pm–2am, Fri & Sat 12.30pm–2.30am, Sun 1–5pm.
Galindo Constitución, at Dardignac, galindo.cl; map. Perpetually packed spot serving traditional Chilean food, such as hearty pastel de choclo, cazuela and lomo a la pobre, along with beers until late, even on weekdays. If sitting outside, you will be entertained by street musicians. Mains from CH$5000. Mon–Sat 10am–2am.
El Huerto Orrego Luco 054, elhuerto.cl; map. An excellent choice for a wide variety of lovingly prepared vegetarian dishes, such as hearty burritos or asparagus and ricotta strudel. Mains from around CH$7000. Mon–Sat noon–11pm, Sun 12.30–4.30pm.
Liguria Av Providencia 1373, liguria.cl; map. Portraits, film posters, flower designs and football pennants adorn the walls of this legendary Santiago restaurant-bar, which has ample pavement and indoor seating. Dishes include pot roast, pork ribs in mustard sauce and sea bass with capers. There are two other branches, but this one is the best. Mains CH$8000–9000. Mon–Sat 11am–2am.
Santo Remedio Roman Diaz 152, santoremedio.cl; map. The idiosyncratic decor has a surreal edge – including high-backed wooden chairs and a zebra-print sofa – and the food is billed as “an aphrodisiacal experience”, with pastas, Thai curries, steaks and seafood all on the menu. It’s also good for drinks and is the place for a Sunday night out. Mains and set lunches CH$5700–7900. Mon–Fri 1–3.30pm & 6.30pm–late, Sat & Sun 9pm–late.
For an unusual eating experience, try El Rincón de los Canallas (“Traitor’s Corner”), at Tarapacá 810 (entry only by prior reservation on 2 2632 5491, canallas.cl; map). It was once a secret meeting place for the opposition during Pinochet’s dictatorship, and though this is not the original site, you still need a password to enter. When asked, “Quién vive, canalla?”, respond “Chile libre, canalla.” (Pinochet called his detractors “canallas”, so the exchange roughly means: “Who’s there, traitor?” “Free Chile, traitor.”) Against a nostalgic backdrop including wall-to-wall rallying slogans, this intimate bar offers traditional Chilean grub served up under names like Pernil Canalla (“Traitor’s Ham”, a roasted leg of pork). Mains CH$6000–10,000.
Santiago is not a 24-hour party town, and compared to other Latin capitals can seem rather tame. However, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays are lively, with crowds pouring into the streets and bars of the nightlife zonas.
Café Escondido Rosal 346; map. If you want cheap beer and bar snacks in a less than raucous environment, this intimate bar is the perfect spot. Mon–Sat 6pm–2.30am.
Café Haiti Ahumada 140; map. A timewarp café con piernas (café with legs), where the mostly male clientele ogle waitresses in short skirts; dodgy gender politics aside, the coffee (from CH$1400) is excellent. Many branches around town. Mon–Fri 8am–9pm.
Culto Estados Unidos 246 2 2632 3585, cultobar.cl; map. Laidback rock bar that specializes in theme days dedicated to bands from Pink Floyd to The Verve. Decent range of cocktails starting at CH$2700 and snacks from CH$4500. Mon–Thurs 5pm–1am, Fri & Sat 5pm–2am, Sun 5pm–midnight.
La Piojera Aillavilú 1030; map. Carve your name into the wooden tables at this rough-and-ready bar with a loyal clientele, and knock back a terremoto (earthquake) – a powerful wine and ice-cream mix. Drinks from CH$2000. Daily noon–late.
Blondie Alameda 2879 blondie.cl; map. Large and popular four-floor dance club featuring techno, goth, indie and other musical styles (depending on the night), as well as occasional live music. Thurs–Sat from midnight.
The Clinic Av Brasil 258 T2 2697 2578, cerveceriatheclinic.cl; map. Run by the people behind satirical magazine The Clinic, this restaurant-bar maintains an appealingly irreverent air with its cartoon menus. There are also inexpensive snacks and meals (CH$4000–10,000), plus a branch on Plaza Ñuñoa. Daily 12.30pm–2am.
Confitería Las Torres Alameda 1570 2 2668 0751, confiteriatorres.cl; map. Elegant, nineteenth-century building hosting spellbinding live tango shows on weekends to accompany the expertly cooked traditional Chilean dishes (mains CH$6500–12,000). Mon–Sat 10.30am–midnight.
Altazor Antonia López de Bello 0189 2 2732 3934; map. Popular bar packed on weekends, often featuring live folk music, jazz and blues. Cover CH$2500. Thurs–Sat from 10.30pm.
Bar Dos Gardenias Antonia López de Bello 199 9 7757 2887, bardosgardenias.cl; map. A chilled-out and welcoming Cuban bar, with a faded red and yellow exterior, the obligatory Che picture, live Latin folk and rock and refreshing drinks (a mojito will set you back CH$3500). It’s especially lively on Friday and Saturday nights. Mon & Tues 7pm–1am, Wed 7pm–2.30am, Thurs–Sat 7pm–3.30am.
La Casa en el Aire Antonia López de Bello 125 2 2735 6680, lacasaenelaire.cl; map. Inviting candlelit venue offering poetry reading, contemporary theatre performances, film screenings and folk music; check the website for listings. Daily 8pm–2am.
Flannery’s Tobalaba 379 2 2303 0192, flannerys.cl; map. The inevitable Irish pub, but a good choice for a night out in the Sanhattan area – large and busy, with a loyal local clientele and good number of expats, who come to sup Guinness and English ale, watch the football or rugby and eat Irish stew or fish and chips (CH$6800). Mon–Wed noon–1.30am, Thurs & Fri noon–2.30am, Sat 6pm–2.30am, Sun 6pm–12.30am.
Havana Salsa Dominica 142 2 2737 1737, havanasalsa.cl; map. If you want to shake your hips to some salsa beats, this is the place. Cover and Cuban-style buffet dinner CH$13,990. Thurs–Sat 9pm–4am.
La Batuta J. Washington 52 batuta.cl; map. A thriving gem of Santiago nightlife, where Chilean and British rock music attract a dedicated following. Drinks around CH$4000. Wed–Thurs 10pm–2am, Fri & Sat 10pm–4.30am.
It’s easy to arrange day-trips from Santiago to experience some world-class powder snow. The ski season lasts from mid-June to early October. All resorts rent ski equipment and clothing, and day lift passes cost CH$33,000–46,000. High in the Andes Mountains, 36km east of Santiago, three large ski resorts are clustered in the Tres Valles area: El Colorado, La Parva and Valle Nevado; all three can be accessed from Farellones, a village (2400m above sea level) at the foot of Cerro Colorado (3333m). The journey from Santiago takes about one hour thirty minutes along a winding road (don’t attempt it with a hangover). A fourth resort, Portillo, is set on the banks of the stunning Laguna del Inca on the Argentine border, a two-hour drive from Santiago.
Ski Total Av Apoquindo 4900, local 40-46 2 2246 0156, skitotal.cl. Operates daily departures to all four resorts, and is a good choice for renting equipment and clothing.
Ski Van 9 7499 4509, skivan.cl. Daily departures to El Colorado, Valle Nevado and La Parva, from General Bustamente 10, just off Plaza Italia.
El Colorado elcolorado.cl. The most accessible and busiest resort houses 19 chairlifts and 21 runs, largely aimed at beginners to intermediate level.
La Parva laparva.cl. The Cerro Franciscano (3608m) and Cerro La Falsa Parva here offer 30 runs for skiers of all abilities, with some excellent long advanced runs.
Portillo skiportillo.com. Chile’s most exclusive resort is used for training by international ski teams and boasts 23 runs that cater to intermediates and experts alike, along with ample backcountry terrain and heli-skiing opportunities.
Valle Nevado vallenevado.com. With the best skiing conditions in Tres Valles and modern lifts, this resort has a good mixture of runs for all abilities, as well as a snow-board park and half-pipe.
Cine Arte Alameda Alameda 139, Metro Baquedano centroartealameda.cl. An arts cinema showing independent and avant-garde films.
Cine Hoyts Moneda 835, Metro Santa Lucía cinehoyts.cl. Multiplex cinema showing the latest releases; English-language films are usually subtitled, although those of interest to young audiences may be dubbed (doblada).
Teatro Municipal Agustinas 794, Metro Universidad de Chile 2 2463 8888, municipal.cl. You can find the best of Chile’s classical music, opera and ballet inside this magnificent historical building.
In general, the prices of manufactured goods are expensive in Chile compared to Europe and the US, but cost and choice wise Chile compares well to other South American countries, so its capital is a good place to stock up on any essentials.
Feria Santa Lucia Santa Lucía, Cerro Santa Lucía; map. Large crafts market stocking indigenous crafts, tie-dyed clothing and T-shirts featuring the Chilean flag. Daily 11am–9pm.
Librería Inglesa Huérfanos 669, downtown libreriainglesa.cl; map. Fairly good, expensive choice of Penguin paperbacks and other English-language books. Mon–Fri 10.10am–7.30pm, Sat 10.30am–1.50pm.
Mall Sport Av Las Condes 13451 mallsport.cl; map. Mall dedicated to sports and outdoor pursuits, with mainly expensive and imported, but good-quality trekking and climbing gear as well as sleeping bags, backpacks etc. Daily 10am–9pm.
Patio Bellavista Between Constitución and Pío Nono, Barrio Bellavista patiobellavista.cl; map. Open-air space with a concentration of gift shops selling high-quality crafts and clothing, postcards, jewellery and home-made honey. Daily 10am–2/4am.
Pueblito de Los Dominicos Apoquindo 9085, Las Condes; map. Take the metro up to Los Dominicos to visit this large, pretty (if slightly pricey) crafts market next to the barrio’s copper-topped church. Daily around 10am–7pm.
Banks and exchange There are plenty of ATMs all over the city, including at the large bus terminals. There are exchange houses on Agustinas, between Ahumada and Bandera, which give a reasonable rate on foreign currencies (Mon–Fri 9am–2pm & 4–6pm, Sat 9am–2pm).
Embassies and consulates Argentina, Miraflores 285, downtown (2 2582 2606, ehile.mrecic.gov.ar); Australia, Isidora Goyenechea 3621, Las Condes (2 2550 3500, chile.embassy.gov.au); Bolivia, Av Santa María 2796, Providencia (2 2232 8180, consuladodebolivia.cl); Canada, Nueva Tajamar 481, 12th floor, Las Condes (2 2652 3800, canadainternational.gc.ca/chile-chili); New Zealand, Isidora Goyenechea 3000, 12th floor, Las Condes (2 2616 3000, nzembassy.com/chile); Peru, Av Andrés Bello 1751, Providencia (2 2339 2600, consulado.pe/es/santiago); South Africa, Apoquindo 2827, 4th floor, Las Condes (2 2820 0300, embajada-sudafrica.cl); UK, Av El Bosque Norte 125, Las Condes (2 2370 4100, ukinchile.fco.gov.uk/en); US, Av Andrés Bello 2800, Las Condes (2 2330 3000, cl.usembassy.gov).
Hospitals Clínica Las Condes, Estoril 450, Las Condes (2 2210 4000, clinicalascondes.cl); UC Christus, Marcoleta 367, downtown (2 2222 9000, redsalud.uc.cl); Clínica Alemana, Av Vitacura 5951, Vitacura (2 2210 1111, alemana.cl).
Language schools BridgeChile, Los Leones 439, Providencia (2 2233 4356, bridgechile.com) and Natalislang, Arturo Bürhle 47, Providencia (9 9257 1436, natalislang.com) both offer intensive immersion Spanish courses, group tutorials and private lessons.
Laundry Try Lavandería Autoservicio, Monjitas 507, or Lavanderia Lolos, Moneda 2296, Barrio Brasil.
Pharmacies There are plenty of Farmacias Ahumada (farmaciasahumada.cl) and Cruz Verde (cruzverde.cl) pharmacies all over Santiago; Farmacia Ahumada at Av Portugal 125 is open 24hr.
Post offices Correo Central, Plaza de Armas 559 (Mon–Fri 8am–7pm, Sat 9am–2pm). Other branches are at Moneda 1170, near Morandé; Local 503, Exposición 51 Paseo Estación; and Av 11 de Septiembre 2092.
Around 120km from Santiago, draped in a crescent around the Bahía de Valparaíso, the captivating city of Valparaíso is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. “Valpo” – as it’s affectionately known – is Chile’s principal port and naval base, and also the country’s liveliest and most vibrant city. The bohemian nightlife and excellent cuisine attract much of Santiago to its bars and restaurants at the weekend, as does the nearby but starkly contrasting beach resort of Viña del Mar. Viña’s attractions are wide, white beaches surrounded by expensive high-rise apartments, casinos and pricey, touristy restaurants. It has none of the character that distinguishes Valparaíso, but as they’re so close together, it’s easy enough to stay in Valparaíso and visit Viña’s beaches for the day.
Few travellers fail to be inspired by the ramshackle beauty of VALPARAÍSO, with its mishmash patchwork of brightly coloured houses is built across a series of hills; steep stairways and the city’s famous ascensores (elevators) link the hills to the port area. Still a major port today, the city came into its own during the California Gold Rush, and in the mid-nineteenth century was the main hub for ships crossing between the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Valparaíso’s narrow labyrinth of atmospheric alleyways offers glimpses of the city’s decline from the grandeur of its former glories, and its more recent (partial) transformation into a bohemian, arty hub.
Valparaíso is effectively split into two halves: the hills (cerros), and the flat El Plan. Most restaurants and hostels can be found on the former, especially on touristy Cerro Concepción and Cerro Alegre. Visitors usually spend their time here meandering along the winding passageways, and enjoying the spectacular views from the rickety ascensores. El Plan, which includes the busy port area, is home to an extensive nightlife quarter as well as the shopping and administrative districts, all linked by traffic-choked narrow streets.
Valparaíso’s ascensores, or funiculars, were built between 1883 and 1916. As well as being one of the city’s enduring attractions, they remain an essential way of getting about, and have recently been renovated. Most run daily from 7am to 11pm and cost CH$100–300 per journey. Below are some of the best. Note that they are periodically closed for renovation work.
Ascensor Polanco The only ascensor that is an actual elevator, Polanco is reached through a long underground tunnel from Calle Simpson, off Avenida Argentina. It rises vertically through the yellow tower to a mirador offering excellent views of the port; there’s also some high-class graffiti, though bear in mind that the area is a bit sketchy.
Ascensor Concepción (also known as Ascensor Turri). The city’s oldest funicular, built in 1883 and originally steam-powered, is one of the most popular. It climbs up to Paseo Gervasoni on Cerro Concepción, a delightful residential area and the start of many walking tours that cover Cerro Alegre as well. The lower entrance is opposite the Relój Turri clock tower.
Ascensor Artillería Extremely popular with visitors, this funicular should not be missed. It runs from Plaza Aduana up to Cerro Playa Ancha, and offers a beautiful panoramic view of the city and coastline, with Viña del Mar in the distance. The Museo Naval y Marítimo is nearby.
Without a doubt, Valparaíso’s biggest attraction is its cerros (hills). Few pastimes are as enjoyable as meandering up and down the area’s winding narrow streets, or riding its antique funiculars. Visitors can stop to marvel at the impressive views of the city from a multitude of miradores (viewpoints), or duck into little shops and cafés to admire the colourful murals – a striking example of the city’s bohemian culture. It is easy to see why Valparaíso has produced a string of notable writers, poets and artists.
Cerro Concepción and Cerro Alegre are the best known of the hills, with the highest concentration of churches and museums, but they are by no means the only gems. Nearby Cerro Panteón, reached by a network of winding paths, is home to three colourful cemeteries, the most interesting of which is the Cementerio de Disidentes, resting place of non-Catholic European immigrants. Nearby Cerro Cárcel is the site of a former prison that has been turned into the Parque Cultural de Valparaíso (32 225 9400, parquecultural.cl), a vibrant, cultural hub.
La Sebastiana, Ferrari 692, off Alemania (Tues–Sun: Jan & Feb 10am–7pm; March–Dec 10.10am–6pm; CH$7000; 32 225 6606, fundacionneruda.org), was the least lived-in of the poet Pablo Neruda’s three homes, but it offers incredibly picturesque views of the city and the interior design reflects the poet’s quirky tastes. Like his other residences, the five-storey house has a nautical theme and is crammed with knick-knacks that Neruda picked up on his travels; unlike the others, you can explore this one without a guide. The vista from his bedroom window is nothing short of spectacular. To get here, take a short ride on colectivo #39 from Plaza Ecuador or bus #612 or “0” from Avenida Argentina or Plaza San Luis at the top of Templeman; if you stay on the latter for the whole route you get a low-cost city tour.
El Plan consists of long east–west streets, crossed by shorter north–south streets leading into the hills, and is divided into two halves, with Barrio Puerto located northwest of Cerro Concepción. Its centrepiece, the pedestrianized Plaza Sotomayor, is lined with a mixture of modern concrete blocks and grand early twentieth-century buildings, and is home to the Primera Zona Naval, the country’s naval headquarters. At the port end of the plaza, near the Estación Puerto, is Muelle Prat, the passenger pier, from where you can take boat trips out into the harbour (CH$3000/person; 30–45min). West of the pier, the five-block port-side stretch of Avenida Errázuriz and parallel Blanco make up Valparaíso’s principal nightlife district, with Mercado Puerto and its plethora of fishy places to eat at the northwest corner. A couple of blocks south of the market is the elegant Iglesia Matriz del Salvador, built in 1842, while the Plaza Aduana and Ascensor Artillería lie two blocks west.
The Museo Naval y Marítimo at Paseo 21 de Mayo 45 (Tues–Sun 10am–5.30pm; CH$1000; 32 243 7651, museonaval.cl) houses an extensive collection of artefacts related to Chile’s famous military figures, including Arturo Prat, Lord Cochrane and Bernardo O’Higgins, and focuses most attention on the War of the Pacific. The museum is divided into four halls around an immaculate courtyard, each devoted to a different naval conflict and displaying original documents, uniforms and medals.
El Almendral, east of Cerro Concepción, is the bustling commercial district, where lively stalls selling all manner of goods spill out onto the streets. Plaza O’Higgins is home to a huge antiques market on weekends and doubles as a live music venue, while Plaza Rodomiro, which runs through the centre of Avenida Argentina, draws weekend shoppers with its flea market. Across from the square is the main Terminal Rodoviario, with the monolithic Congreso National building directly opposite it.
By bus The Terminal Rodoviario (32 293 9646) is on the eastern end of Pedro Montt, opposite the Congreso Nacional; it’s a 20min walk to the old town centre.
Destinations Isla Negra (every 15min; 1hr 30min); La Serena (every 1–2hr; 6hr); Santiago (every 15min; 1hr 30min–1hr 45min).
By train The Metro (metro-valparaiso.cl) departs for Viña del Mar from several stations in Valpo (every 5–20min). Buy a plastic charge card (CH$1450) first, and top it up with credit before travelling.
Tourist information The tourist office is at Muelle Prat by the port (32 223 6264, sernatur.cl; Mon–Fri 9am–2pm & 3–6pm, Sat 9am–2pm & 3–5pm). Note that (despite an old sign) there is no official tourist office at the bus station, which is filled with accommodation touts offering (at best) partial information.
Tours One of the best operators is Ruta Valparaíso (32 259 2520, rutavalparaiso.cl), which has half-day (CH$25,000) and full-day (from CH$35,000) city tours; it also offers excursions throughout the region. A good alternative for city tours is the appropriately named Tours for Tips (tours4tips.com), which leave from Plaza Sotomayor daily at 10am and 3pm and have several different routes; they are free but tips are welcomed. Wine Tours Valparaíso (09 8428 3502, winetoursvalparaiso.cl) organizes wine-tasting trips in the Casablanca Valley and beyond. Chilean Cuisine (09 6621 4626, cookingclasseschile.cl) offers enjoyable cookery classes.
By bus, colectivo and micro Frequent transport of all sorts runs to and from Viña del Mar; look for “Viña” displayed in the window. In El Plan, buses labelled “Aduana” run west towards the centre along Pedro Montt while “P. Montt” buses run back to the bus station.
By tram Antique trams offer limited but inexpensive service around El Plan; watch out the rails.
Casa Aventura Pasaje Gálvez 11, Cerro Alegre 32 275 5963, casaventura.cl; map. Well-established, friendly Casa Aventura has spotless dorms and private rooms (including good-value singles for CH$20,000), a sunny lounge and a communal kitchen. A reliable budget choice. Dorms CH$11,500, doubles CH$29,000
Hostal Jacaranda Urriola 636, Cerro Alegre 32 324 5077, hostaljacaranda.blogspot.co.uk; map. Friendly, low-cost, no-frills hostel for travellers on a really tight budget. It’s split over two nearby sites, within easy walking distance of the city’s best restaurants and bars. No breakfast. Dorms CH$8,000, doubles CH$23,500
Hotel Ibis Errazuriz 811 32 280 2300, ibis.com; map. In a downtown location, overlooking the port, this modern, mid-range hotel has a distinctive, multicoloured exterior, spick- and-span en-suite rooms (many with wonderful sea views), efficient staff, and an in-house restaurant-bar. CH$41,000
Nómada Eco Hostel Brasil 1822 32 327 3081, nomadaecohostel.cl; map. If you’re not set on staying on one of the cerros, this downtown hostel is a great choice. The five- to ten-bed dorms and private rooms are cheerful and boast wooden floors, and there’s plenty of artwork dotted around. It aims to be the first carbon-neutral hostel in Valpo. Dorms CH$11,000, doubles CH$33,000
Residencia en el Cerro Pasaje Pierre Loti 51, Cerro Concepción 32 249 5298, residenciaenelcerro.cl; map. Large, wonderfully friendly family-run place, with a good breakfast, and a number of cats to keep you company. Dorms CH$11,000, doubles CH$24,000
The Yellow House Capitán Muñoz Gamero 91, Cerro Artillería 32 233 9435, theyellowhouse.cl; map. Even by Valpo’s high standards, the views from The Yellow House, a renovated 200-year-old building, are spectacular. Most of the rooms at this welcoming B&B are en suite, and there’s also a comfortable apartment with a kitchenette. There’s a book exchange, and a range of tours are available. Doubles CH$29,000, apartments CH$45,000
Treat yourself
Hotel De Vinci Urriola 426, Cerro Elegre 32 317 4494, hoteldavincivalparaiso.cl; map. As the name suggests, there’s an arty feel to this mid-range hotel, whose en suites, some split-level, are set around a light-filled central atrium, with photos and paintings covering the walls. Good value. US$83
Alegretto Pilcomayo 529, Cerro Concepción 32 296 8839, allegretto.cl; map. British–Chilean-run restaurant with colourful decor, draught beer, and live football on TV. The menu features thin-crust pizzas (CH$5800–9200), risottos, gnocchi and ravioli, and a good weekday lunch special (CH$5900). Mon–Thurs 1–3.30pm & 7–11pm, Fri 1–3.30pm & 7.30pm–1am, Sat 1–4.30pm & 7.30pm–1am, Sun 1–4.30pm & 7–11pm.
Amor Porteño Almirante Montt 418, Cerro Concepción 32 221 6253; map. Charming ice-cream parlour/café, with a tiny dining area decorated with flowery murals and vintage mirrors. As well as real Argentine-style helado (from CH$1750), you can tuck into churros and medialunas (sweet, doughy croissants), and enjoy good coffee. Tues–Thurs & Sun 10.30am–9pm, Fri & Sat 10.30am–10pm.
Emporio La Rosa Plaza Aníbal Pinto 1189 09 7516 4920, emporiolarosa.cl; map. Pink-shirted waiting staff serve onces (CH$6900–8100), breakfasts, light meals and huge coffees at this cheerful café. The highlights, though, are the ice-cream sundaes (CH$3900–4200). Mon–Fri 8.30am–9.30pm, Sat 9am–9.30pm, Sun 11am–9.30pm.
Le Filou de Montpellier Almirante Montt 382, Cerro Concepción 32 222 4663; map. A delightful little piece of France in Valpo: postcards of Montpellier and local paintings decorate the place, while the ever-changing set lunch (CH$8900) may include French onion soup, moules mariniere, and peach melba. Tues–Thurs 1–5pm, Fri 1–9pm, Sat 1–10.30pm, Sun 1–6.30pm.
Foto Cafe Av Esmeralda 1111 32 223 1515, fotocafe.cl; map. Something of a curiosity, combining a photography business with a classy café. There’s a good-value three-course set lunch (around CH$8000), plenty of options for onces, coffee and alcoholic drinks (these last best enjoyed in the cosy upstairs nook, accessed via a spiral staircase). Mon–Fri 9.30am–7.30pm, Sat 10am–2pm.
J. Cruz Malbrán Condell 1466, up a side alley next to the Municipalidad 32 221 1225, jcruz.cl; map. This extraordinary place is packed with kitsch trinkets. It also claims to have invented the chorrillana (a vast plate of steak strips, onions, eggs and French fries), which is not to be missed. Most mains CH$5500–7500. Mon–Thurs noon–2am, Fri & Sat noon–4.30am, Sun 1pm–2am.
Bar La Playa Serrano 567 32 225 9426; map. The old sea dogs that once frequented La Playa have mostly departed, but it’s still a characterful spot for a drink (from CH$2000; the food, though, is decidedly average), and there’s frequently live music in the evenings. Mon–Wed 10am–10.30pm, Thurs–Sat 10am–late.
El Cinzano Plaza Aníbal Pinto 1182 32 221 3043, barcinzano.cl; map. One of the oldest restaurant-bars in the city, offering a fantastic atmosphere, especially on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights when it fills with locals and ageing crooners singing sentimental ballads. Beer from CH$1800; set lunch CH$5500. Mon–Wed 10am–1am, Thurs 10am–2am, Fri & Sat 10.30am–4.30am.
Fauna Dimalow 166, Cerro Alegre 32 327 0719, faunahotel.cl; map. The terrace at this restaurant-bar has panoramic views of Valpo’s cerros and bay, making it an ideal spot for a sundowner, especially given the range of craft beers (from CH$3000). Good food, too. Daily 12.30–10.30pm.
El Irlandés Blanco 1279 32 254 3592; map. This Irish-run joint has an authentic pub-feel, with a long bar to prop yourself up at, an excellent range of imported and local beers, and a friendly, relaxed atmosphere. Tues & Wed 5pm–1.30am, Thurs 6.30pm–3am, Fri 4pm-3.30am, Sat 4pm–4.30am.
Banks and exchange The main financial street is Prat, with many banks, ATMs and cambios. Banco de Santiago is generally the best bet for currency exchange.
Hospital Try public hospital Carlos Van Buren, Colón, at San Ignacio (32 236 4000, hospitalcarlosvanburen.cl), or private clinic Clínica Valparaíso, Av Brasil 2350 (600 411 2000, clinicavalparaiso.cl).
Post office Prat 856 (Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 10am–1pm).
Though only fifteen minutes from Valparaíso, VIÑA DEL MAR could hardly be more different from its grittier neighbour. Purpose-built in the late nineteenth century as a weekend getaway for wealthy Santiago and Valparaíso residents, it draws thousands of holidaymakers during the summer and on weekends. Viña makes for an enjoyable day-trip to the beach, and is worth a visit during the week-long Festival de la Canción in the second or third week of February, which draws top Latino and international artists. The city also hosts spectacular Año Nuevo (New Year) celebrations. Other festivals include the two-week-long Feria del Libro (Jan), which attracts important literary figures and hosts live readings, and the acclaimed Festival Cine Viña del Mar film festival (Oct or Nov; cinevina.cl).
The city is split in two by the broad, none-too-clean Marga Marga estuary, with a largely residential area to the south and most of the beaches in the northern half. Avenida San Martín, parallel to the beach, and the side streets off it feature numerous dining and nightlife options. At the heart of Viña lies the large, shady Plaza Vergara, a popular spot with the occasional busker or capoeira demonstration and horse-drawn carriages parked around it. Several blocks of Avenida Valparaíso, Viña’s main thoroughfare, which runs from the square’s southwest corner, have been pleasantly pedestrianized, with a number of shops and places to eat.
Museo Francisco Fonck (4 Norte 784; Mon 10am–2pm & 3–6pm, Tues–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 10am–2pm; CH$2700; 32 268 6753, museofonck.cl) has one of Chile’s most important Easter Island collections, plus some fascinating pre-Hispanic exhibits. One of the museum’s best pieces stands by the entrance in the garden: a giant moai, one of just six that exist outside Easter Island.
Playa Caleta Abarca lies in a sandy cove south of Castillo Wulff, an impressive castle-like structure built on a rocky outcrop at the mouth of the estuary by a Valparaíso businessman in 1906. Located next to the large Reloj de Flores (“flower clock”), the beach draws a lively picnicking crowd on weekends. Just north of the estuary, Avenida Perú runs parallel to the sea, past the brash Casino Viña del Mar. Beyond you will find an almost unbroken line of sandy beaches, backed by high-rise apartment buildings, stretching all the way to the smaller resort of Reñaca, which itself has more good beaches and nightlife.
The one spot besides the beaches where you might want to spend some time in Viña del Mar is the lovely Quinta Vergara park (daily: summer 7am–7pm; winter 7am–6pm), where the manicured grounds are home to a vast array of exotic imported plants. It’s a couple of blocks south of Plaza Vergara behind the Estación Viña, with the futuristic-looking Anfiteatro, home to the annual music festival, its centrepiece.
Arrival, information and tours
By bus The bus terminal is at the eastern end of Av Valparaíso. To go down the coast, your best bet is to catch a bus from Valparaíso, reached by any micro (every 10min) marked “Puerto” or “Aduana” from Plaza Vergara or Arlegui; alternatively take the Metro (see below).
Destinations Reñaca (every 15min; 25min); Santiago (every 15min; 1hr 30min–1hr 45min).
By train The Metro (metro-valparaiso.cl) departs for Valparaíso from the centrally located Miramar and Viña del Mar stations (every 5–20min). Buy a plastic charge card (CH$1450) first, and then top it up with credit before travelling.
Tourist information The main office is off the northeast corner of Plaza Vergara, next to Hotel O’Higgins (Mon–Fri 9am–9pm, Sat 10am–9pm, Sun 10am–8pm; 32 218 5710, visitevinadelmar.cl). There’s also a smaller information booth at the bus station (daily 9am–6pm; 32 275 2000).
Tours Tours 4 Tips (2 2570 9338, tours4tips.com) runs daily English- and Spanish-language walking tours, departing from the Reloj de Flores at 10am and 3pm (free, but tips expected).
Casa Olga 18 de Septiembre 31 32 318 2972, casa-olga.com; map. In a handsome 1930s townhouse this charming B&B is one of the best value options in town, with a handful of spick-and-span en-suite rooms, some with sea views. It’s in the Recreo neighbourhood, a 20min walk from the Reloj de Flores. CH$40,000
My Father’s House Gregorio Marañón 1210 32 261 6136, myfathershouse.cl; map. Spacious, quiet single, double and triple rooms (with shared or private bathrooms), swimming pool and gracious owners. The only drawback is that it’s about 2km from the centre of town; catch colectivo #31, #82 or #131. US$62
Street Garden Hostel 3 Poniente 379 32 320 0208, streetgardenhostel.cl; map. Hostels open and close remarkably frequently in Viña: Street Garden Hostel is one of the current popular spots, with a lively (and noisy) atmosphere, four- to eight-bed dorms, basic private rooms, and a handy central location. Dorms CH$10,000, doubles CH$30,000
Cevasco Av Valparaíso 694–700 32 271 4256, cevasco.cl; map. Bustling fuente de soda, split between two locations, either side of an arcade, serving up tasty – if decidedly unhealthy – hot dogs, burgers and barros lucos (CH$1750–4750) to a steady stream of locals. Mon–Sat 8.30am–11pm, Sun 12.30–9.30pm.
Entre Masas 5 Norte 235 32 297 9919; map. Excellent little bakery, specializing in empanadas (CH$1500–2500): there are 49 varieties including crab and cheese, spinach and ricotta, and chicken, bacon and mushroom. Daily 10am–10pm.
Donde Willy 6 Norte 353 32 342 1261; map. Tucked away down a narrow alleyway, this little restaurant specializes in Chilean classics such as pastel de jaiba (crab pie) and caldo de congrio (conger eel soup). Mains CH$4900–9000. Daily noon-12.30pm
Panzoni Paseo Cousiño 12B 32 271 4134; map. This charming Italian joint has a handful of tables, great service and inexpensive pastas and salads. You may have to queue at lunchtime, but it’s worth the wait (mains CH$5000–8000). Mon–Sat noon–4pm & 8pm–midnight.
The Tea Pot 5 Norte 475 32 268 7671; map. Kitsch wood panelling gives this café the feel of a Patagonian cabin. The menu features around fifty types of tea (from CH$1300) plus breakfast options, cakes, sandwiches and onces. Winter Mon–Sat 10am–9pm; summer Mon–Sat 10am–10pm, Sun 4.30–9pm.
Café Journal Agua Santa 2 32 266 6654; map. Proximity to Viña’s university ensures a healthy crowd of student drinkers, with pitchers of beer setting them up for a night dancing and carousing. It’s busy throughout the week until the early hours, often featuring live music and/or DJs. Drinks CH$1500–4000. Mon–Wed noon–3.30am, Thurs 11.30am–3.30am, Fri & Sat 11.30am–4.30am, Sun 8pm–3.30am.
Banks and exchange Most banks and cambios are on Arlegui and Av Libertad, and there are innumerable ATMs scattered about town.
Post office Between Plaza Vergara and Puente Libertad (Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 10am–1pm).
The seaside village of ISLA NEGRA (not, incidentally, an island), about 80km south of Valparaíso, was the site of Pablo Neruda’s favourite home. The Casa Museo Isla Negra, Poeta Neruda s/n (Tues–Sun: Jan & Feb 10am–7pm; March–Dec 10am–6pm; CH$7000, including audio tour in Spanish, English, French, German or Portuguese; the museum has limited capacity, so it’s best to arrive in the morning; 2 2777 8741, fundacionneruda.org), lies down a wooded trail by the sea, a short walk from the main road. Larger than his other two homes, Isla Negra is fascinating for the sheer volume of exotic objects that Neruda accumulated here, and the consideration that went into every aspect of the design – from the arrangement of wooden ships’ figureheads in the living room, to the positioning of blue glass bottles along the seaward side of the house. The poet’s collection includes African wooden carvings, ships in bottles and an amazing array of seashells, housed in a purpose-built room that Neruda designed but never completed. A strong nautical theme runs throughout; there is even a small boat on the terrace so that the poet could be “a sailor on land”.
By bus Pullman (pullman.cl) and Tur Bus (turbus.cl) run buses from Santiago’s Terminal Alameda (every 30min; 2hr). There are also services from Valparaíso (every 15min; 1hr 30min).
Dominated by dry scrubland and sparse vegetation, the Norte Chico region, which stretches roughly from the northern tip of Santiago to the southern reaches of the Atacama, might seem unremarkable from a bus window. Visitors are, however, drawn here for its stargazing, long sandy beaches, and trips to its far-flung national parks. The biggest population centre is the relaxed seaside town of La Serena with its bustling market and colonial-style architecture, while the fertile Elqui Valley, which once inspired Nobel-Prize-winning poet Gabriela Mistral, is now the focal point for the country’s favourite tipple, pisco. The islands of Damas and Choros brim over with seals, penguins and cormorants. Further north, the mining town of Copiapó, currently undergoing one of its regular copper-induced booms, is the jumping-off point for the stunning kaleidoscopic landscapes of Parque Nacional Nevado de Tres Cruces and Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar. Horseriding, trekking and kayaking are all attractions which are likely to keep tourists in this region longer than they expected.
LA SERENA, 474km north of Santiago, is one of Chile’s prime beach resorts, though its charms also include an impressive number of churches and several worthwhile museums. It is also an excellent base for exploring the surrounding countryside. The city was founded in 1544, and during the following century it was the target of multiple raids by the French and British, including the pirate Francis Drake.
With a tranquil vibe, La Serena’s central streets are easy to wander around on foot. The town’s largest church is the Neoclassical Iglesia Catedral, at the corner of Los Carrera and Cordovez, off the Plaza de Armas, which has a beautiful, marble-decorated interior. Iglesia de San Francisco, Balmaceda 640, was the first church here to be built out of stone, and Iglesia Santo Domingo, Cordovez s/n, dates back to 1673.
The Casa Gabriel González Videla, Matta 495, on the west side of the Plaza de Armas (Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 10am–1pm; free), is well worth a visit. Originally the home of former president González Videla, who was born in the town, it is now a museum housing an impressive collection of fine art and contemporary painting.
At the junction of Cienfuegos with Cordovez, the Museo Arqueológico (Tues–Fri 9.30am–5.50pm, Sat 10am–1pm & 4–7pm, Sun 10am–1pm; free) displays elaborate Diaguita ceramics, as well as a 2.5m moai statue from Easter Island.
About two blocks west from Paza de Armas, the tranquil and beautifully sculpted Japanese-style Jardín El Corazón (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; CH$1000) is the perfect place to while away a sunny afternoon.
While reasonably crowded in the summer, the beaches are quiet for the rest of the year. The nearest beach area is a half-hour walk west from the city centre from Jardín El Corazón along Francisco de Aguirre.
Between La Serena and the town of Coquimbo, a cycle lane runs beside a dozen or so wide, sandy beaches lined with pricey condominiums, hotels and restaurants – an easy and enjoyable day-trip. Many hostels and travel agencies have bikes to rent. Most of the beaches are suitable for swimming and windsurfing, although Playa Cuatro Esquinas is known to have strong rip currents.
By plane Aeropuerto La Florida is 5km east of town along Ruta 41; catch a taxi (CH$6500), transfer (CH$2500) or micro to the centre.
Destinations Antofagasta (2 daily; 1hr 25min); Santiago (6 daily; 1hr).
By bus The main bus terminal is located on corner Amunátegui, at Av El Santo, a 20min walk south of the centre.
Destinations Antofagasta (20 daily; 12hr); Arica (5 daily; 24hr); Calama (11 daily; 15hr); Copiapó (every 30min–1hr; 5hr); Iquique (8 daily; 18hr); Montegrande (every 30min–1hr; 1hr 50min); Ovalle (every 15min; 1hr 20min); Pisco Elqui (every 30min–1hr; 2hr); Santiago (every 30min; 7hr); Valparaíso (6 daily; 5hr); Vicuña (every 30min–1hr; 1hr).
By colectivo Coquimbo (frequent daily departures from Av Francisco de Aguirre, between Los Carrera and Balmaceda; 20min); Elqui Valley (several departures daily from Domeyko in the centre; 1hr).
From La Serena, a number of tour companies run excursions in the surrounding area. Popular tours (CH$15,000–50,000) of the Elqui Valley include pisco tasting, stargazing at the Observatorio Mamalluca and penguin-watching at Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt.
Tourist information Sernatur, Matta 461, Plaza de Armas (March–Nov Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 10am–4pm, Dec–Feb daily 9am–9pm; 51 222 5199).
Daniel Russ 09 9454 6000, jeeptour-laserena.cl. An experienced and extremely knowledgeable man (with a jeep), who runs standard excursions for small groups, as well as trips to Paso del Agua Negra and tailor-made outings.
Kayak Australis 2 3202 6850, kayakaustralis.cl. Specializes in multi-day sea-kayak trips around Chile, including one to Isla Damas. Book through the Santiago office at Barros Borgoño 71, Oficina 803, Providencia, or online.
Mundo Caballo Km27, along the road between La Serena and Vicuña 09 6191 0497, mundocaballo.cl. Stables 20km outside La Serena offering various horseriding trips, including one at night (CH$18,000–50,000). Best contacted by phone.
Turismo Delfines Matta 655 51 222 3624, turismodelfines.cl. Established operator specializing in bilingual guided trips to Isla Damas.
Aji Verde Hostel Vicuña 415 51 248 9016, ajiverdehostel.cl; map. A fun atmosphere pervades this central, HI-affiliated hostel with young staff, a roof terrace, kitchen and plenty of common areas for connecting with fellow travellers. Dorms CH$9000, doubles CH$33,000
Hostal Family Home Av El Santo 1056 51 221 2099, familyhome.cl; map. Good-value hostal that lives up to its name and is conveniently located close to the bus terminal (albeit on a busy road), with singles, doubles and triples (some en suite), plus use of a kitchen. CH$28,000
El Huerto Parcela 66, Peñuelas 51 231 2531; map. Lovely, grassy campsite down at the quieter end of the beach, halfway between La Serena and Coquimbo (buses between the two stops nearby). Per person CH$25000
Hostal Maria Casa Las Rojas 18 51 222 9282, hostalmariacasa.cl; map. Small guesthouse with an effusive hostess, kitchen access, bikes to rent, and a relaxing garden; popular with backpackers. A 3min walk from the main bus station – ideal for late arrivals. Dorms CH$12,000, doubles CH$25,000
Hostal El Punto Andres Bello 979 51 222 8474, hostalelpunto.cl; map. German-run hostel with friendly and knowledgeable staff, daily excursions, an on-site café, laundry service and spotless rooms; popular with travellers of all ages. Call ahead if arriving later than 10pm. Dorms CH$10,000, doubles CH$21,000
La Casa del Guatón Brasil 750 51 221 1519; map. Lively, friendly and intimate, this colonial-style restaurant serves the town’s best parrilladas (from CH$19,000). There’s often live music. Mon–Sat 12.30pm–12.30am, Sun 1–6pm.
La Mia Pizza Av del Mar 2100; map. Seafront pizzeria that offers excellent fish dishes as well as large portions of tasty pizza (from CH$7000). Mon–Sat 12.30pm–midnight, Sun 12.30–4.30pm.
La Biblioteca O’Higgins, at Av Francisco de Aguirre 09 8139 0449; map. “The Library” is anything but: students congregate around small wooden tables, feeding the jukebox while downing terremoto cocktails (sweet white wine, pineapple ice cream and Amaretto). Drinks from CH$2000. Daily 2.30pm–3am.
Café Centenario Cordovez 391; map. Lavazza coffee (CH$1500–3000), regional wines and local beer are served in this chic corner spot on the southeast corner of Plaza de Armas. Mon–Fri 8am–8pm.
A fifteen-minute colectivo ride south from La Serena lies its rougher, livelier twin: Coquimbo, the region’s main port. The beautifully restored historical district of Barrio Inglés comprises several plazas with a far more exciting eating and nightlife scene than La Serena. Coquimbo’s only real drawback is the lack of budget accommodation, though there is one exception.
The most striking landmark, looming over town, is a huge 93m cross, the Cruz del Tercer Milenio (cruzdeltercermilenio.cl). This slightly bizarre construction, the base of which provides a great viewpoint over town, was funded by the King of Morocco for the benefit of the town’s Lebanese Muslim community.
Hostal Nomade C Regimento Coquimbo 5 51 275 1161. HI-affiliated hostel in the large and rambling former residence of the French ambassador, which has a slightly haunted-house feel. It has informative staff, large rooms with exceptionally high ceilings, internet, kitchen facilities and other backpacker conveniences. Dorms CH$13,000, doubles CH$30,000
Eating, drinking and nightlife
With many fish restaurants, Coquimbo is a seafood-lover’s paradise, and also comes alive at night with lively pubs and clubs – a popular drinking area is along Alduante between Freire and Argandoña.
Dolce Gelato Aldunate 862. If the ice-cream stand out front doesn’t tempt you in, then live music wafting from the terrace will. Filling and reasonably priced Italian dishes (CH$5000–8000) such as seafood lasagne. Mon–Fri 10am–11pm, Sat 1–11pm.
Pub Aduana Argandoña 360. Cold beer, pisco-based cocktails and people-watching are the orders of the night at this popular bar with street-side tables and live music. Drinks from CH$2000. Thurs–Sat 10pm–5am.
With an average of 360 cloudless nights per year, northern Chile has some of the clearest skies in the world, so it’s little wonder that it’s home to some of the world’s most powerful telescopes. The larger observatories allow public visits free of charge during the day, allowing you to view the equipment, though not to use it. There are an ever-increasing number of small centres offering nocturnal stargazing facilities expressly for tourists, though the best set up for visits are Observatorio Cerro Mamalluca and Del Pangue Observatory in the Elqui Valley.
The following places are the best of the big observatories; there is no public transport other than organized tours and you always need to reserve in advance.
ESO Paranal 55 243 5335, visits@eso.org, eso.org. 130km south of Antofagasta, the observatory sports four VLTs (Very Large Telescopes), each with an 8m mirror. Tours Sat 10am & 2pm.
Cerro Tololo Office at Casilla 603, La Serena 51 220 5200, ctio.noao.edu Some 70km east of La Serena, this Inter-American observatory features an impressive 8.1m Gemini telescope. Tours Sat 9.15am–noon & 1.15–4pm.
La Silla Office near the airport at Panorámica 4461 51 227 2601, eso.org. 147km northeast of La Serena, and home to fourteen telescopes. Tours Aug–May Sat 2–4pm.
East of La Serena, the 62km journey to Vicuña is a scenic trip with breathtaking vistas of the tranquil Elqui Valley. Its fertile greenery contrasts with the valley’s sandy sides, its slopes a spectrum of red, green and gold due to the mineral-rich soil. The ribbon of the highway, lined with pink peppercorn trees, runs along the valley floor, past vineyards and grapes drying on canvas sheets by the roadside. Tours of the valley typically take in the giant dam and man-made Lago Puklara, popular with windsurfers and kitesurfers, the historical village of Vicuña, the laidback community of Pisco Elqui and a pisco-tasting distillery, before finishing with stargazing at the Observatorio Mamalluca.
Sleepy Vicuña makes a convenient stopover for exploring the Elqui Valley. Formerly home to Nobel Prize-winner Gabriela Mistral, it has a museum at Gabriela Mistral 759 (Jan & Feb Mon–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat & Sun 10.30am–8pm; March–Dec Mon–Fri 10am–5.45pm, Sat 10.30am–6pm, Sun 10am–1pm; free), dedicated to her. Planta Capel (daily 10am–5pm; CH$4000–15,000; 51 255 4337, piscocapel.cl), the valley’s largest pisco distillery, lies just south of town, and has half-hourly bilingual tours tracking the Muscatel grape’s journey from the vine to the pisco bottle, culminating in a small free sample at the end.
By bus Vicuña’s main terminal is one block south of the Plaza de Armas, on O’Higgins, at Prat (51 241 1348). For Santiago and other major cities, it is easiest to return to La Serena.
Destinations Coquimbo (20 daily; 1hr 30min); Pisco Elqui (every 30min–1hr; 1hr); La Serena (every 30min–1hr; 1hr).
By colectivo Colectivos to La Serena and Coquimbo leave from the bus station when full (daily 7am–9pm).
Tourist information Inside the Torre Bauer, San Martín s/n, in the northwest corner of the Plaza de Armas (Mon–Fri 8.30am–6pm, Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 9am–2pm; 51 267 0308).
Chivato Negro Gabriela Mistral 565 09 7862 9430, cafeovejanegra.com. Located in a 1920s heritage property, this literary-themed café offers up abundant sandwiches, veggie quiches and salads. The three-course lunch costs CH$4900. Daily 9am–10pm.
Hostal Donde Rita Condell 443 51 241 9611, hostaldonderita.com. A comfortable set of rooms surrounded by a leafy garden, complete with pool and terrace area. Overseen by a charming German hostess, who prepares delicious breakfasts. Doubles CH$31,000
Soledad y Yo Carrera 320. A typical picada or family restaurant-bar, popular with locals, serving up substantial servings of Chilean favourites, and decent drinks (from CH$1500). Mon–Thurs 11am–1am, Fri–Sun 11am–3am.
Hostal Valle Hermoso Gabriela Mistral 706 51 241 1206, hostalvallehermoso.com. Motherly Cecilia presides over this restored century-old adobe house with a bright central patio. Minimalist but sweet rooms have comfortable beds and private bathrooms complete with piping-hot showers. Doubles CH$36,000
The climatic conditions in the Elqui Valley are ideal for growing the sweet Muscatel grapes from which the clear, brandy-like pisco, Chile’s national drink, is derived. Pisco is a constant source of dispute between Chile and Peru. Peru claims that the drink originates from the Peruvian port of the same name, and some historical records demonstrate that pisco has been consumed in that area since the Spaniards introduced vineyards in the early 1600s.
Chileans claim that they have also been producing pisco for centuries, that their pisco is of better quality and that it plays a greater role in Chilean society. In both Chile and Peru, pisco is normally consumed in a pisco sour – a mix of pisco, lemon juice, sugar syrup, egg white, crushed ice and a drop of angostura bitters. It goes down deceptively smoothly, but packs a real punch.
In a spectacular mountaintop setting 17km south of Vicuña, Del Pangue Observatory offers an intimate and personalized stargazing experience specifically designed for amateur astronomers. Two-hour tours (Jan & Feb 9pm & 11pm; June–Aug 6pm; rest of year 8pm; no tours five days around the full moon; tour times often change depending on planet positions; CH$24,000) are conducted by bona fide astronomers, and Del Pangue’s state-of-the-art 63cm Obsession telescope is light years ahead of other public observatories. Book tours at the office at San Martin 233, Vicuña (daily 10am–7pm; 51 241 2584, observatoriodelpangue.blogspot.com).
The Observatorio Cerro Mamalluca is located 9km northeast of Vicuña. Compared to other nearby observatories, its 30cm telescope is tiny, but it still offers magnification of 150 times – sufficient to look closely at the craters on the moon and to view nebulae, star clusters and Saturn. There are two tours offered (Oct–April 8.30pm, 10.30pm & 12.30am; May–Sept 6.30pm & 8.30pm; CH$7000): “Basic Astronomy” and “Andean Cosmovision”, looking at the night sky as seen by the pre-Columbian inhabitants of the area. Shuttles to and from the observatory (CH$3000 return) depart from the Cerro Mamalluca office in Vicuña (Gabriela Mistral 260, office 1; Mon–Fri 8.30am–8.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am–2pm & 4–8pm; 51 267 0330 or 51 267 0331) half an hour before the tour starts. Reserve tickets in advance, especially in the peak months from December to February.
The green and laidback village of PISCO ELQUI boasts a beautiful hillside setting alongside the Río Clara, with unparalleled views of the Elqui Valley. The shaded Plaza de Armas, with its brightly painted Gothic church, hosts the Mercado Artesanal in the summer. A block away, the Destileria Pisco Mistral is Chile’s oldest pisco distillery, and offers guided tours (O’Higgins 746; Jan–Feb daily 11am–5pm; March–Dec Tues–Sun 11am–5pm; CH$6000; 51 245 1358, destileriapiscomistral.cl) complete with tastings. Los Nichos (tours daily: April–Nov 10am–6pm; Dec–March 11am–7pm; CH$1,000; 51 245 1085, fundolosnichos.cl) is an old-fashioned distillery 3km south of Pisco Elqui, and worth visiting to see pisco processed by hand.
Arrival, information and activities
There is just one ATM so bring plenty of cash.
By bus Buses stop in by the plaza and also go up into the village.
Destinations La Serena/Coquimbo (every 1–2hr; 2hr–2hr 30min); Vicuña (every 30min–1hr; 50min).
Tourist information Hostel owners will be able to help you with information, but an excellent option for local knowledge of the area is the tour agency Turismo Migrantes, O’Higgins s/n (51 245 1917, 09 6667 3907, turismomigrantes.cl), where Bárbara and Pablo organize pisco tours, horseriding and bike rides in the surrounding area, and even stargazing tours at their own home.
Refugio del Angel El Condor s/n, 1km southeast of the plaza 51 245 1292, campingrefugiodelangel.cl. This pretty riverside campground has shady camping spots, with picnic tables and hot showers. The “teahouse” provides breakfast, drinks and snacks. Per person CH$10,000
El Tesoro de Elqui Prat s/n 51 245 1069, tesoro-elqui.cl. Cosy adobe dorms and rooms – one with a skylight for stargazing – and excellent food. The owners can help organize motorbike rental and tours. Dorms CH$16,000, doubles CH$57,000
Hostal Triskel Baquedano s/n 09 9418 8680, hostaltriskel.cl. Lovingly decorated rooms and decent breakfasts. They can arrange hiking, biking and horseriding too. Dorms CH$15,000 doubles CH$30,000
Reserva Nacional PingüIno de Humboldt
The Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt (April–Nov Wed–Sun 9am–5.30pm; Dec–March daily 9am–5.30pm; CH$12,000) is a remarkable marine wildlife reserve 110km north of La Serena, which comprises three islands jutting from the cold Pacific waters: Isla Chañaral, Isla Choros and Isla Damas. The islands are home to chundungos (sea otters), a noisy colony of sea lions, the Humboldt penguin, four species of cormorants, clamouring Peruvian boobies and countless seagulls.
Unless you plan to stay the night at Isla Chañaral (see below), it is much easier to visit as part of a tour from La Serena. Boats sail (CH$8000/person; sailings dependent on conditions) from Caleta de Choros, the small fishing community closest to the islands, along the steep jagged coastline of Isla Choros. You get close enough to see the wildlife in great detail, and on the way to the island, pods of curious bottlenose dolphins often frolic around the boat; it’s also possible to spot humpback, blue and killer whales. On the way back, visitors can take a short ramble on sandy Isla Damas, whose pristine beaches are home to a smaller penguin population.
Tourist information There is a Conaf-run Centro de Información Ambiental (April–Nov Wed–Sun 9am–5.30pm; Dec–March daily 9am–5.30pm; 51 261 1555 or 09 9544 3052, conaf.cl at Caleta de Choros, with informative displays on local flora and fauna, and another smaller one at Caleta Chañaral.
Tours Main full-day destinations are located east into the cordillera, taking in Parque Nacional Nevado de Tres Cruces and sometimes Laguna Verde and Ojos del Salado; and north to Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar. Half-day trips go north into the Atacama dunes, west to the beaches around Bahía Inglesa, or east up the Copiapó River Valley. Operators include Atacama Chile (56 221 1191, atacamachile.com) and mountaineering outfit Aventurismo (09 9599 2184, aventurismo.cl), who specialize in multi-day ascents of the Ojos de Salado volcano between Nov and March.
Several people on Isla Chañaral rent out simple rooms in their homes (around CH$20,000 a double). There is a basic campsite at Caleta Chañaral, while camping is permitted on Isla Damas.
The prosperous mining town of COPIAPÓ, 333km north of La Serena, was founded in 1744 and benefited greatly from the silver boom of the 1830s. Today, Copiapó still makes its living from mining, nowadays for copper. It will forever be linked in many people’s minds with the 2010 rock collapse at the nearby San José mine, which left 33 miners (“Los 33”) trapped underground for 69 days before the world cheered their safe rescue.
At the heart of Copiapó is the large Plaza Prat, dotted with pepper trees; handicraft stalls line the plaza’s east side, facing the mall. The Neoclassical Iglesia Catedral Nuestra Señora de Rosario graces the southwest corner, while on the corner of Atacama and Rancagua, a ten-minute walk from the plaza, the Museo Regional de Atacama (Tues–Fri 9am–5.45pm, Sat 10am–12.45pm & 3–5.45pm, Sun 10am–12.45pm; free; 52 221 2313, museodeatacama.cl) has a display on the trapped miners of the San José mine, which includes their fateful hand-written note: “We are fine in the shelter – the 33”. The other well-presented displays cover the exploration of the desert, the War of the Pacific, pre-Columbian peoples of the region and the Inca road system.
By plane Aeropuerto Desierto de Atacama is around 50km northwest of the city; both the Manuel Flores Salinas minibus and Casther bus meet arriving planes and travel into town; taxis cost around CH$25,000.
Destinations Some of these routes require stopovers, which the travel times listed take into account. Calama (1–2 daily; 1hr 10min–4hr); Santiago (5–7 daily; 1hr 20min).
By bus Copiapó’s main bus terminal is at Chañarcillo 655, two blocks south of Plaza Prat. Across the road, also on Chañarcillo, is the Tur Bus terminal; one block south, at Freire and Colipí, is the Pullman Bus terminal. For Caldera and Bahía Inglesa, Casther (52 221 8889), Expreso Caldera (09 6155 8048) and Trans Puma (52 223 5841) run a frequent service from the small bus station on the corner of Esperanza and Chacabuco, opposite the Líder Hypermarket (you can also catch a Casthar transfer to the airport here). Alternately you can catch one of the yellow colectivos that wait on the same corner opposite Líder.
Destinations Antofagasta (15 daily; 7hr); Arica (11 daily; 17hr); Calama (15 daily; 10hr); Caldera (every 30min; 1hr); Iquique (12 daily; 13hr); La Serena (every 30min–1hr; 5hr); Santiago (22 daily; 12hr); Valparaíso (6 daily; 12hr).
Tourist information The well-organized Sernatur office is at Los Carrera 691 on Plaza Prat (Mon–Fri 8.30am–6pm, Sat 10am–2pm, 52 221 2838). Conaf is at Juan Martínez 56 (Mon–Thurs 8.30am–5.30pm & Fri 8.30am–4pm; 52 221 3404).
Café Colombia Plaza Prat on Colipi, at Carrera. Pricey but excellent, this place serves good coffee (CH$1000–3000), plus cakes, ice-cream sundaes, sandwiches and pizzas. Mon–Sat 8am–10pm.
Flor de la Canela Chacabuco 710 52 221 9570. This cheerful Peruvian joint offers a change from the Copiapó norm, with tasty dishes like ceviche and lomo saltado (mains CH$8300–11,000). Mon–Sat noon–4pm & 7pm–midnight, Sun noon–8pm.
Hotel Palace Atacama 741 52 233 6427, palacehotel.cl. Copious wood-panelling gives Hotel Palace a vaguely 1970s feel. The carpeted rooms are comfortable enough, though overpriced (try haggling). CH$38,000
Residencial Benbow Rodriguez 541 52 221 7634. Clean, no-frills rooms (CH$6000 extra for an en suite) around a narrow courtyard. Breakfast costs extra. Doubles CH$22,000
The landscape surrounding Copiapó is astonishingly varied, with the salt flats of the Parque Nacional Nevado de Tres Cruces, mesmerizing Laguna Verde, active volcano Ojos de Salado and, to the west, the fine white sands of Bahía Inglesa and Caldera.
Parque Nacional Nevado de Tres Cruces
Remote and ruggedly beautiful Parque Nacional Nevado de Tres Cruces (daily 8.30am–6pm; CH$4000) is located east of Copiapó via Ruta 31, which winds through the mercilessly desolate desert landscape. The road climbs steeply before reaching the Salar de Maricunga – a great field of white crystals on the edge of the park, dotted with emerald-coloured salt pools – and continuing on towards Paso San Francisco on the Argentine border.
The park consists of two separate parts. The larger is the 490-square-kilometre Laguna Santa Rosa sector, 146km east of Copiapó at an altitude of 3700m, which comprises half of the salt flat and the namesake lake, with roaming herds of vicuñas and guanacos feeding on the abundant grasslands. The pale blue lagoon, dotted with flamingos and giant coots, is set against a backdrop of snow-streaked volcanoes, including the grand Nevado Tres Cruces (6749m). On the west side of the lake is a small and very rustic Conaf-run refugio, consisting of bare floorspace, basic cooking facilities and a privy out back.
Cutting across a vast expanse of parched brown land, dotted with hardy yellow altiplano plants, you reach the 120-square-kilometre Laguna del Negro Francisco sector, around 85km south. In summer it becomes a sea of pink and beige, thanks to the presence of eight thousand or so Andean, Chilean and James flamingos that migrate here from neighbouring Argentina, Bolivia and Peru. On the west side of the lake, Conaf’s Refugio Laguna del Negro Francisco has beds and kitchen facilities; make reservations with Copiapó’s Conaf office (CH$12,000/person).
Laguna Verde and Volcán Ojos de Salado
The magnificent spectacle of the misnamed Laguna Verde lies 65km beyond Laguna Santa Rosa, at a whopping altitude of 4325m. The first flash of its brilliant turquoise waters, around a bend in the road, is breathtaking. On the lake’s salty white shore are some rustic and relaxing hot springs inside a little wooden shack. It’s possible to camp here: you must bring all necessary supplies with you, including water, and remember that night-time temperatures drop well below freezing. Beyond the lake loom three volcanoes, including the second-highest peak in Latin America – Ojos de Salado. At an elevation of 6887m, it trails just behind Argentina’s 6962m Aconcagua as the tallest mountain in the Americas. It is also the world’s highest active volcano, with recent eruptions in 1937 and 1956.
The towns of Caldera and Bahía Inglesa, 7km apart and 75km west of Copiapó, are both popular beach resorts famous for their large, delicious scallops. CALDERA itself is an unremarkable little town, though the Gothic Iglesia San Vicente (1862) on Plaza Condell is worth a look. Pedestrianized Gana, lined with craft stalls in the summer, makes for a nice stroll between the square and the waterfront Costanera (pier) – home to the oldest railway station in Chile, dating back to 1850, and now a museum (Tues–Sun 10am–2pm & 4–7pm; CH$600) and events centre. The pier is the best place to sample inexpensive seafood empanadas and other fishy delights.
Caldera’s main beach, small seaweed-tinted Copiapina, is not the best in the area. For crystal-clear turquoise waters and long stretches of white sand, head to nearby Bahía Inglesa, either by colectivo or along the cycle path parallel to the road, which is immensely popular in summer for its laidback atmosphere, the proximity of the ocean and an abundance of cheap seafood empanadas vendors along the seafront. There are several small and sheltered beaches along the main Avenida El Morro, with the wide crescent of Playa Las Machas stretching into the distance.
By bus Buses to Copiapó leave from a small terminal at the corner of Cifuentes and Ossa Varas. Long-distance services to Chañaral and further north are provided by Pullman Bus and Tur Bus, from Caldera’s main terminal at Gallo and Vallejos.
Destinations Chañaral (12 daily; 1hr); Copiapó (every 30min; 1hr).
By micro and colectivo Micros for Bahía Inglesa leave from the Plaza de Armas every 15min in Jan and Feb. The rest of the year, black taxi colectivos leave from the plaza.
Tourist information On Plaza de Armas in Caldera (daily 9am–2pm & 4–7pm; 52 253 5765, caldera.cl).
Most options are in Bahía, which has a greater selection of accommodation than Caldera, though it tends to be overpriced during peak season.
Camping Bahía Inglesa Off Playa Las Machas, just south of the town 52 231 6399 or 52 231 5424. An excellent place to camp, with hot showers, picnic tables and restaurants. Pitch for up to six people CH$26,000, cabin CH$40,000
Los Jardines de Bahía Inglesa Copiapó 100 52 231 5359, jardinesbahia.cl. These smart cabañas sleep up to eleven people. There’s a good-sized pool, a table-tennis table and a decent Italian restaurant. Cabins for two people CH$90,000
Hostel Qapaq Raymi Edwards 420, Caldera 09 7386 3041, hostel.qapaqraymi@gmail.com. Beds are comfy, the vibe relaxed and the spacious patio and bar make up for a cramped shared kitchen. Dorms CH$10,000, doubles CH$30,000
El Plateao El Morro 756 09 6677 5174. Restaurant-bar with a terrace overlooking the beach, good service and an innovative menu offering exceptional seafood dishes (around CH$8000–10,000). Daily 1–5pm & 5pm–midnight.
About 180km north of Copiapó, Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar entices visitors with its spectacular coastal desert landscape, which alternates between steep cliffs, studded with a multitude of cactus species, and pristine white beaches. A small gravel road leads into the park from the compact town of Chañaral and continues past Playa Blanca and Playa Los Piqueros to Caleta Pan de Azúcar, a small fishing village inside the park. Isla Pan de Azúcar, home to Humboldt penguins, sea lions, sea otters and a wealth of marine birds, lies a short distance offshore. Although landing on the island is forbidden, fishing boats (daily: March–Nov 9am–6pm; Dec–Feb 9am–7pm; CH$50,000 for up to ten people, or whatever deal you can strike) get visitors close enough to see (and smell) the wildlife. A 9km trail runs north from the village to the Mirador Pan de Azúcar, a lookout point offering staggering panoramic views of the coastline. Also heading north from the village, towards Ruta 5, is a dirt road with a 15km trail branching off to the west that leads you through the arid landscape to Las Lomitas, an outlook point often visited by inquisitive desert foxes and shrouded in rolling camanchaca (sea mist), the main water source for all the coastal vegetation.
By bus There are no public buses to the park, though northbound buses from Copiapó can drop you off in Chañaral, the nearest town. Ask around at the bus terminal in Chañaral, and you should be able to get someone to take you to the park. Taxis cost CH$25,000 each way – worth it for a group. Alternatively, take a day-trip tour from Copiapó.
Tourist information Conaf’s Centro de Información Ambiental (daily 8.30am–12.30pm & 2–6pm) is opposite Playa Los Piqueros and has maps and information on the park, as well as a display of local cacti. The park fee of CH$5000 is payable here; no fee is charged if entering the park from the east.
Rough camping is not allowed in the park, but there are a number of authorized camping areas. In Caleta Pan de Azúcar, a handful of restaurants on the water’s edge serve fried fish, rice and empanadas.
Camping Los Pingüinos Just north of the Caleta Pan de Azúcar 52 248 1209. If you’ve got your own camping gear, this campsite has decent facilities. Per person CH$5000
Pan de Azúcar Lodge Playa Piqueros, south of Caleta Pan de Azúcar 09 9280 3483, pandeazucarlodge.cl. Pan de Azúcar Lodge has the national park’s best camping facilities, with barbecues and picnic tables, as well as cabañas sleeping up to eight. Camping per person CH$5000, cabins CH$40,000
