Karol Kozlowski/AWL Images
Montevideo
Montevideo Eclectic architecture, sweeping beaches and hip nightlife.
Colonia del Sacramento Picturesque and historical town with excellent food.
Carmelo Sleepy town, home to vineyards and riverside beaches.
Minas Ride with gauchos through Uruguay’s vast interior.
Punta del Este Flashy beach resort with surf and celebrities.
Cabo Polonio Laidback hippie vibes at the electricity-free beach, the antithesis of Punta.
Highlights are marked on the map
Daily budget Basic US$60, occasional treat US$80
Drink Pilsen beer (1 litre) US$3.50
Food Asado de tira steak US$13
Hostel/budget hotel US$18–55
Travel Montevideo–Colonia del Sacramento (150km) by bus: 2hr 45min, US$14
Population 3.4 million
Language Spanish
Currency Peso uruguayo (UR$)
Capital Montevideo (population: 1.3 million)
International phone code 
598
Time zone GMT -3hr
If, as the saying goes, countries get the government they deserve, then Uruguay’s most popular former president José “Pepe” Mujica was a great fit for Uruguay – modest, but sure of himself, progressive, but totally laidback; Uruguayans are certainly the most relaxed South Americans. With a plethora of sandy riverside and ocean-facing beaches, unspoiled open countryside, historical towns that verge on retro and kindly locals who usually clasp a flask and mate under one arm, you can expect a warm welcome as you traverse their land.
Through misfortune and good times, Uruguayans maintain their traditionally cheerful attitude, and it’s not hard to see why. From the secluded surfing beaches of the Atlantic coast, to the rolling pastoral land of the interior tended by gauchos, or the picturesque streets of Colonia del Sacramento and the buzzing nightlife of Montevideo, theirs is a gem of a nation set between the South American giants of Brazil and Argentina. “Tranquilo” (peaceful) could be Uruguay’s national motto, and, after witnessing the beauty of the land and the relaxed kindness of its people, you are unlikely to be in any hurry to leave.
One of Uruguay’s main draws is its beaches, so it’s best to visit from November to February when it’s warm, although bear in mind that prices in beach towns soar. Winters in Uruguay can be downright frigid, with cold wet air blowing in from the ocean, but you should still get some sunny days.
Pre-1600 Uruguay is home to the Charrúa, a hunter-gatherer people hostile to the European invaders.
Early 1600s Spanish settlers introduce cattle to Uruguay and the gaucho lifestyle of cattle-ranching develops.
1680 The Portuguese establish Colonia del Sacramento as the first major colony in Uruguay.
1726 The Spanish retaliate by founding Montevideo in an attempt to cement their power in the region. Their wars with the Portuguese continue for the next century.
1811 José Artigas begins an independence campaign against the Spanish, who finally leave Uruguay in 1815, only for Brazil and Argentina to fight over control of the territory.
1820 Artigas, defeated by the Portuguese, is exiled to Paraguay, where he stays until his death.
1825 Juan Lavalleja leads the legendary Treinta y Tres Orientales (a group of 33 revolutionaries) to victory over the Brazilians. Uruguay gains its independence a year later.
1831 Uruguay’s 500 remaining Charrúa are massacred by the government.
1834–51 Uruguay plunged into civil war pitting the Colorados against the Blancos, names that have survived as political parties to this day.
1903–15 President José Batlle y Ordoñez of the Colorado Party makes sweeping social reforms, effectively making Uruguay South America’s first welfare state.
1950–60s Inflation and political corruption leads to the stagnation of Uruguay’s industries, and social unrest ensues.
1973 The Congress is dissolved and the army takes control of the government. Twelve years of military dictatorship ensue.
1984 The military allows free elections to take place. Colorado wins, Dr Julio Sanguinetti becomes president and holds office until 1989, returning to power from 1995 until 2000.
2000 Personal possession and use of marijuana is legalized.
2001 The economic crisis in Argentina leads to a collapse in the value of the Uruguayan peso; inflation and wide-spread unemployment ensues.
2009 José Mujica, a former militant leftist taken prisoner and tortured during the military regime, easily wins the presidency.
2012 Uruguay becomes the second Latin American country, after Cuba, to legalize abortion.
2013 A year later, it becomes the first country in the world to legalize marijuana sales.
2014 Mujica’s successor Tabaré Vázquez wins the November election.
Many visitors arrive via ferry from Buenos Aires to Colonia del Sacramento or to Montevideo as an easy day-trip. Those coming by long-distance bus will be dropped at Tres Cruces bus terminal (
trescruces.com.uy) in downtown Montevideo.
Coaches pass through border town Chuy to Tres Cruces.
Those flying into Uruguay usually arrive at Montevideo’s Aeropuerto de Carrasco; check online for the full list of airlines flying here (aeropuertodecarrasco.com.uy).
Citizens of the EU, US, UK, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa and Canada, among others, do not need a visa to visit Uruguay. Check the Preguntas Frecuentes (FAQ) section of mrree.gub.uy for a full list of countries.
The most convenient and cheapest means of transport in Uruguay are intercity buses, which operate from the bus terminal (terminal de ómnibus) in most towns. Montevideo’s main terminal Tres Cruces has an excellent website (trescruces.com.uy) with details of all the companies and timetables operating there. Long-distance buses are comfortable and many have wi-fi.
Uruguay is an easy country to drive around; all the major routes are asphalted, well signposted, and, outside of summer along the coast, there are few drivers on the roads. Non-paved roads off the numbered routes tend to be in pretty good shape, except after rain when they may become too muddy without a 4WD. Even Montevideo is fairly straightforward to get in and out of, thanks to the coastal road (the ramblas) linking the airport with the centre and old town. In low season, you can find rental cars for as little as UR$1700/day, and from UR$2000 in high season (all the major international car rental companies have offices), but petrol costs are equivalent to European prices. Fines for speeding are high (from US$220), so be sure to adhere to the national speed limits of 45km/hr in inner cities and 90km/hr on the main roads between towns. Note that Uruguay operates a zero-alcohol tolerance for drivers. Taxis tend to be safe as long as they’re licensed, but look out for remises (minicabs), which sometimes offer better rates for fixed distances as they are booked in advance – ask at your hostel for reliable companies.
With a predominantly flat landscape and good-quality roads, Uruguay is a tempting place for cyclists.
Accommodation is never more than 50km apart along the coast (although in the interior and north facilities are sparser) and there are repair shops in many cities. As with elsewhere in South America, however, you must beware of the recklessness of local drivers.
Uruguay’s coastal towns house plenty of youth hostels and other towns will offer basic hotels for those on a budget. Off the main tourist routes, however, places to stay can be few and far between; it’s also worth checking if your trip coincides with a public holiday as accommodation can book up fast. Tourist information offices are usually happy to help find accommodation. During the summer holidays from December to February you need to book ahead, and prices soar, so a dorm bed can be as expensive as sharing a double room in a basic hotel. Hotels and hostels often have a set dollar exchange rate, rather than going by the daily rate, which can mean you’ll be slightly better off paying in dollars than pesos.
Uruguay may not provide the most cosmopolitan of culinary experiences, but if you enjoy beef or most kinds of seafood, you will not go hungry. Uruguayan steakhouses (parrillas) serve steaks that are larger and (as the locals insist) more tender than their Argentine counterparts, with the most popular cuts being the ribs (asado de tira) and tenderloin (bife de chorizo).
The best dining option for vegetarians tends to be the ubiquitous pizza and pasta restaurants. Desserts (postres) also bear an Italian influence and Uruguay’s confiterías (patisseries) and heladerías (ice-cream parlours) are bursting with delicious treats. Dulce de leche is an irresistible type of caramel that you’ll find in almost any form on dessert menus (and as part of your hostel breakfast to spread on toast). The national snack is the chivito, essentially a whopping burger stacked with fried egg, ham, cheese and bacon, but with a whole steak instead of ground beef, best bought from a street food truck (UR$150) and slathered in sauces for an authentic experience.
Uruguayans don’t really do breakfast – most cafés open around 10am, but most hotels and hostels provide a basic breakfast for tourists. Lunch is eaten early, between noon and 1pm, making time for the merienda or té: a sumptuous afternoon tea – usually advertised for two – full of sweet and savoury snacks along with tea or coffee, which is taken around 5pm. Thanks to this tradition, dinner is always late; you’ll normally be eating on your own if you arrive at a restaurant before 9pm.
Restaurant prices are fairly high for South America: the average price for a lunch set menu is around UR$300–400 in Montevideo, and à la carte prices can be much higher.
You are unlikely to walk down a single street in Uruguay without seeing someone carrying the thermos, pots and metal straw (bombilla) required for mate. In a tradition that goes back to the earliest gauchos, Uruguayans are said to drink even more of the grassy tea than Argentines, and a whole set of social rituals surrounds it. Whenever it’s drunk, mate is meticulously prepared before being passed round in a circle; the drinker makes a small sucking noise when the pot needs to be refilled, but if this is your position, beware making three such noises: this is considered rude.
Mate (pronounced mah-tey) is the national drink and involves a whole set of paraphernalia to partake in drinking it. Coffee is the other non-alcoholic drink of choice here, and teas and bottled water are always available, along with fresh juices and smoothies (licuados).
When not clutching their thermos, Uruguayans enjoy the local beers – especially the ubiquitous Pilsen – which come in one-litre bottles (UR$100) fit for sharing. Uruguayan wine is becoming more prominent, especially the Tannat grape which makes a fine red (tinto). You may also see wine offered as medio y medio which is a blend of sparkling and slightly sweet white wine. Tap water is fine to drink.
Uruguayans of all ages tend to be warm, relaxed people, fond of lively conversation over a beer or barbecue (asado). As a nation in which the overwhelming majority of people are descended from Italian and Spanish immigrants, Uruguay also maintains some conservative Catholic religious and social practices, especially in the countryside, although the coastal towns are liberal by South American standards. Uruguayans display a rugged sense of independence that recalls the romantic figure of the gaucho, the cowboys who still roam the grassy plains of the interior. Women and men alike greet each other with one kiss on the cheek. It’s usual to leave a ten percent tip anywhere with table service.
Ever since the first football World Cup, in 1930, was held in Uruguay and won by the national team, football has been the sport to raise the passions of the normally laidback Uruguayans. In the countryside, horseriding (cabalgata) is more a part of working life than a sport, but there are many opportunities for tourists to go riding – many hostels and most estancias offer horseriding. Cycling is a popular way of seeing the cities (many hostels provide free or cheap bikes), while fishing is another favoured afternoon pursuit.
Surfing is increasing in popularity, thanks to fantastic Atlantic waves, and many beach hostels will rent out boards or advertise lessons.
A widely accepted translation of the Guaraní word uruguay is “river of painted birds”, so it’s no surprise that the country offers fantastic birdwatching opportunities, including flamingos, vultures, hawks, rheas and Magellanic penguins. Tourist information offices have excellent leaflets about twitching in Uruguay.
Internet cafés charge UR$20–30/hr and are present in all towns. Antel run the public phone service and you’ll find street phones and cabinas telefónicas (booths inside shops) wherever you go. You can buy phone cards (tarjeta telefónica), available wherever you see the Antel signs, or use change. The national post office, Correo Uruguayo (correo.com.uy), provides an expensive and sometimes unreliable service for international mail; for urgent deliveries, you are much better using a private mailing company like FedEx, at Juncal 1321 in Montevideo’s old town. There are no postboxes on the street; you either need to go to a post office branch, or in Montevideo most museums have buzones (boxes) in their foyers.
Uruguayans pride themselves on how safe their country is, although statistically crime is on the rise. Thefts from dorms, as well as pickpocketing, do occur, especially in Montevideo and the beach resorts during the summer months. Store your valuables in lockers whenever possible, but you shouldn’t feel worried carrying valuables around with you during the day. The Uruguayan police are courteous, but unlikely to speak English.
While some visitors may head to Uruguay to take advantage of the 2103 law that allows marijuana grown by certified producers to be purchased – the first country in the world to do so – remember that it’s illegal for tourists to buy or consume the local product.
Uruguay’s public healthcare system is in pretty good shape; there are adequate public hospitals in the major cities. Contact your embassy, or ask locals, for advice on the best facilities, and check that they will accept your insurance.
The national tourist board, run by the Ministerio de Turismo y Deporte (Minitur; 1885, turismo.gub.uy) is branded as Uruguay Natural, and it runs offices in all of Uruguay’s major towns, alongside local tourist offices run by the municipality. Uruguay Natural in Montevideo can give you free maps of every department, or you can buy high-quality road maps in petrol stations and bookshops. Uruguayans often write addresses using the abbreviations “esq.”, meaning “at the corner with”, and “c/”, meaning “almost at”, or “nearby”.
The Uruguayan currency is the peso uruguayo (UR$). Coins come as 50 centimos and 1, 2, 5 and 10 pesos; notes as 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000 pesos. At the time of writing, the exchange rate was £1 = UR$40, €1 = UR$35 and US$1 = UR$28.
Money changing is stress-free as everyone has to buy at the same rate, which varies slightly day to day (you can always find it displayed on the front of the daily newspapers). Breaking large banknotes is less of a problem than in most South American countries, though you are still advised to carry smaller notes in the countryside.
While major credit cards are widely accepted, and ATMs are common in cities (look out for the Banred and RedBrou ATMs that accept international cards), you should always carry a relatively large supply of cash for places where this is not the case. This applies especially to the beach villages of Eastern Uruguay, such as Punta del Diablo, which don’t have ATMs. ATMs charge around UR$85 per withdrawal. Paying by foreign credit or debit card benefits from an instant tax refund in high season: 22 percent for hotels, restaurants and car rental; two percent in supermarkets.
Most shops and post offices open on weekdays from 8am until noon, before closing for lunch, reopening around 4pm until 7 pm. Most businesses work at least a half-day on Saturday, but most close on Sundays. Banks are usually open Monday to Friday 1 to 5pm and closed at weekends. The exception to this is many shops in Montevideo, the main coastal tourist centres, and supermarkets in general; the latter are often open as late as 11pm during the week.
Most museums and historic monuments are open daily, though times vary, and tend to close once a week for maintenance.
Jan 1 New Year’s Day (Año Nuevo)
Jan 6 Epiphany (Día de Magos)
Easter (Semana Santa or Pascuas) is celebrated on Maunday Thursday and Good Friday
April 19 Landing of the 33 Patriots (Desembarco de los 33 Orientales)
May 1 Labour Day
May 18 Battle of Las Piedras (Batalla de Las Piedras)
June 19 Birth of José Artigas
July 18 Constitution Day (Jura de la Constitución)
Aug 25 Independence Day (Declaratoria de la independencia)
Oct 15 Columbus Day (Día de la Raza)
Nov 2 All Souls Day (Día de los Difuntos)
Dec 25 Christmas Day (Navidad)
Jan/Feb–March Carnaval. Montevideo hosts South America’s longest Carnaval celebrations – a full forty days’ worth. Unmissable.
With a population of around 1.6 million, over fifteen times larger than the second city of Paysandú, Montevideo is Uruguay’s political, economic and transport hub. Founded in 1726 as a fortress against Portuguese encroachment on the northern shore of the Río de la Plata, it had an excellent trading position and, following a turbulent and often violent early history, its growth was rapid. The nineteenth century saw mass immigration from Europe – mostly Italy and Spain – that has resulted in a vibrant mix of architectural styles and a cosmopolitan atmosphere.
More relaxed, but less affluent than its Argentine neighbour, the Uruguayan capital has nevertheless seen an economic improvement in recent years, and wisely invested in its culture, infrastructure and beaches. Montevideo may appear humble at first, but this is a seriously cool, confident city.
Montevideo can sometimes be overshadowed by its snazzy neighbour Buenos Aires, but this, Uruguayans will tell you, is the true home of the tango, with plenty of free classes and milongas – bars playing traditional music – not to mention the best place to experience South America’s longest Carnaval season. There are tons of quirky museums, especially in the charming Ciudad Vieja and east to the Centro, based around Avenida 18 de Julio. Close to here, Calle Tristan Narvaja is filled with independent bookshops and cultural spaces, and holds a huge weekly flea market. You may well stay in Barrio Sur – the traditional Afro-Uruguayan neighbourhood where candombe drumming was cultivated – or affluent areas Punta Carretas or Pocitos, where you’ll find some of the best food and nightlife.
If you’ve ever seen a fictionalized version of Havana on TV or film, it’s quite possible it was actually shot in Montevideo’s Ciudad Vieja, so reminiscent are its streets of those in the Cuban capital. Dotted among the crumbling houses and cobbled streets are endearingly bizarre (and mostly free) museums and galleries, while the highlight is the glorious Mercado del Puerto.
You will not truly understand the lure of Montevideo unless you experience Carnaval. It’s a three-month celebration of Uruguayan culture with parades, neighbourhood stages known as tablados which host murgas (street bands where singing groups are accompanied by wild drumming – candombe – originating in the African rhythms brought over by slaves), plays, parodists and comedians, all wildly dressed and there to entertain. The spectacular opening and closing parades take place on Avenida 18 de Julio and the biggest competitions are held at the Teatro de Verano. If you plan to be in Montevideo during Carnaval, email the tourist office to find out key dates and book accommodation well ahead.
Plaza Independencia and around
A good place to start a walking tour of the Ciudad Vieja is the Puerta de la Ciudadela, dating to 1746, marking the original site of the Citadel of Montevideo on the Plaza Independencia. This square commemorates the emergence of Uruguay as a sovereign nation, and a 17m-high statue and mausoleum (under the statue; Mon noon–6pm, Tues–Sun 10am–6pm) of José Artigas, the man credited with kick-starting Uruguay’s independence campaign against Spain and Portugal, stands aptly in the centre.
The area around the plaza contains eclectic architectural styles, from the rather ugly Torre Ejecutiva where the president performs his duties, to the bulbous tower of the Palacio Salvo, built on the reported site of the first ever performance of tango.
Tucked behind the plaza’s southwestern corner is the celebrated Teatro Solís, the most prestigious theatre in the country, completed in 1856 and remodelled a few times thereafter. The guided tours (Tues & Thurs 4pm, Wed & Fri–Sun 11am, noon & 4pm; UR$90 in English; tours in all available languages are free on Wed; 1950 3323, teatrosolis.org.uy) are a fun way to see behind the scenes, but to experience its full splendour, you really have to watch a performance.
On the south side of the plaza, the old Presidential palace, a Neoclassical building from 1873, now houses the intriguing Palacio Estévez – Museo de la Casa de Gobierno (Mon–Fri 10am–5pm; free; 02 1505902), which charts the history of the country via its often-eccentric presidents.
Plaza de la Constitución and around
Lively pedestrian boulevard Sarandí cuts through the centre of the old city – starting at the Puerta de la Ciudadela – with its street-sellers, artisans, buskers and frequent parades, to the Plaza de la Constitución. Also referred to as the Plaza Matríz, this is Uruguay’s oldest square, dating back to 1726. It’s dominated by the Catedral Metropolitana (also known as Iglesia Matríz), which, despite dating back to 1790, is underwhelming by Latin American standards.
Museo Torres García and Museo Gurvich
Two of Uruguay’s finest art galleries are near Plaza de la Constitución. Museo Torres García, at Sarandí 683 (Mon–Sat 10am–6pm; UR$120; 29162663, torresgarcia.org.uy), is devoted to the work of Uruguay’s visionary artist Joaquín Torres García, who championed the creation of a Latin American art form and created the upside-down image of South America that is so prevalent in artesanía in Uruguay. Torres García’s most famous pupil is honoured on the Plaza Matríz around the corner at the excellent Museo Gurvich (Sarandí 524; Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 11am–3pm; UR$180; 29157826, museogurvich.org). Lithuanian Jewish immigrant José Gurvich gained fame in his own right with elaborate murals and sculptures, reminiscent of Chagall and Miró.
Named for the founder of Montevideo, leafy Plaza Zabala might be overlooked if it weren’t for Palacio Taranco on the north side. An opulent private home that was designed by Charles Louis Girault and Jules Leon Chifflot – the same French team who created the Arc de Triomphe – it now holds the Museo de Artes Decorativas (entry at 25 de Mayo 376; Mon–Fri 12.30–5.30pm; free; 29151101, cultura.mec.gub.uy). The beautifully displayed collection includes Uruguayan art and an expansive world pottery collection.
Also worth a look, two blocks east of Plaza Zabala at Rincón 437, is the Casa de Fructuoso Rivera (Wed–Sun noon–6pm; free; 2915 1051, museohistorico.gub.uy), which traces Uruguay’s history from prehistoric to modern times through art and artefacts, with a focus on the life of Artigas.
A foodie’s dream and an architectural gem, the Mercado del Puerto, at the end of pedestrian street Pérez Castellano by the port (daily for lunch, some restaurants also open for dinner; mercadodelpuerto.com.uy), is one of Montevideo’s highlights. It’s so popular, in fact, that the restaurants cash in by charging extortionately; however, it’s well worth soaking up the atmosphere and seeing the wandering minstrels, even if you don’t stay to eat. The port (puerto) and ferry terminal are on the northern edge, along with both the municipal and national tourist information offices.
Set into the Mercado del Puerto, with its entrance on the Rambla, is the Museo del Carnaval (April–Nov Wed–Sun 11am–5pm; Dec–March daily 11am–5pm; UR$100, includes a coffee in the café; 29165493, museodelcarnaval.org), filled with colourful exhibits from the city’s Carnaval celebrations.
Avenida 18 de Julio and around
Extending from the eastern end of Plaza Independencia, Avenida 18 de Julio is central Montevideo’s main shopping thoroughfare and the most important stopping point for the majority of the city’s buses.
Try to pass Plaza Fabini, a verdant square on the avenue, on a Saturday, when you’ll come across people of all ages dancing tango (from 4pm) for a supportive audience. The Plaza Cagancha (also known as Plaza Libertad) is the next grand square on 18 de Julio; pass through it on your way to the huge Palacio Municipal building a little further east. Ask at the tourist information office at its base for a ticket to enter, as the mirador panorámico on the 22nd floor offers far-reaching views over the city (daily 10am–4pm; guided tours at 11.15am on weekdays; free; 
visitas@imm.gub.uy).
Underneath the Palacio Municipal the underrated Museo de Historia del Arte (Ejido 1326; Tues–Sun: mid-March to mid-Dec noon–5.30pm; mid-Dec to mid-March 1.30–7pm; free; muhar.montevideo.gub.uy) is a treasure-trove of pre-Columbian, colonial and international items, beautifully laid out, but you’ll soon notice that much of what is displayed are copies, designed to demonstrate the evolution of art; look out for the items with red dots telling you they’re authentic. It has a particularly strong collection of original pre-Hispanic pieces, including Peruvian and Mesoamerican ceramics, some huge urns from Argentina’s Santa María culture, and Guatemalan textiles.
A street synonymous with Montevideo’s largest street market (Sun 10am–3pm), Tristan Narvaja is a few blocks east from the Palacio Municipal. Spanning six blocks, this is a real flea market selling everything from fruit and veg to antiques to pets. On other days, it’s a pleasant neighbourhood to wander around as the streets are lined with eclectic independent shops and cafés.
Every day, two Buquebus ferries leave from Montevideo (morning and late afternoon) to Buenos Aires (2hr 12min; UR$800–1500 one-way). For a more frequent service, both Buquebus and Seacat Colonia offer a combined bus and ferry ticket to Colonia del Sacramento; ferries depart every couple of hours and take just one hour (often cheaper) to the Argentine capital. Although less convenient, the most picturesque ferry crossing is operated by Cacciola between Tigre, a northern suburb of Buenos Aires, and Carmelo, a one-hour bus ride to the west of Colonia (2 daily; 2hr 30min; UR$900 one-way; 24079657 cacciolaviajes.com). They also run bus connections to Montevideo.
Three blocks northeast from the top of Tristan Narvaja, in a partly refurbished prison dating to 1888, you’ll find the Espacio de Arte Contemporáneo (Arenal Grande 1930; Wed–Sat 2–8pm, Sun 11am–5pm, guided visits Sat 5pm, Sun 3pm; free; eac.gub.uy), exhibiting beautifully curated, world-class contemporary art. You can see resident artists at work in the old cells.
Uruguay’s large countryside makes it difficult to tackle without a car, but there are some excellent tour operators who can get you out in the sticks.
Biking Uruguay (Gabriel Pereira 3297 27090636, bikinguruguay.com); & Bike Tours Uruguay (099592709, biketoursuruguay.com). Both companies run cycling tours in Montevideo and Punta del Este.
Caballos de Luz 099400446, caballosdeluz.com. Recommended, good-value horseriding tours in Rocha department.
Lares W. Ferreira Aldunate 1322, office 14, Montevideo 29019120, larestours.com. A popular nationwide tour operator, specializing in outdoor activities and nature.
The Wine Experience 097348445, thewine-experience.com. South African Ryan runs raved-about gourmet food and vineyard tours from both Montevideo and Colonia; prices depend on number of people in tour.
By plane The Aeropuerto de Carrasco (aeropuertodecarrasco.com.uy) is 25km east of the city centre. Eschew the extortionately priced taxis (30min; UR$1400) and take a bus (every 15min; 24hr, reduced service overnight and at weekends; 25min; UR$140) run by COT (cot.com.uy) and COPSA (copsa.com.uy) to Tres Cruces bus station. Passengers in transit must pay a US$44 tax on international flights (US$20 to Buenos Aires), and US$2 on internal flights, payable at the airport.
Destinations There are several daily flights with Aerolíneas Argentinas (aerolineas.com.ar) and Amaszonas (amaszonas.com) to Buenos Aires’ Aeroparque and Ezeiza airports (the former is better for central BA). Buquebus (flybqb.com.uy) run the only domestic flights. International flights to: Asunción (2 daily; 3hr); Lima (2 daily; 5hr); Miami (daily; 9hr); Madrid (9 weekly); Panama City (daily; 7hr 30min); Rio de Janeiro (daily; 2hr 40min); Santiago de Chile (4 daily; 2hr 40min); São Paulo (8 daily; 2hr 30min).
By bus All intercity buses operate out of Tres Cruces bus station (trescruces.com.uy), 2km northeast of the centre. From here bus CA1 (every 15min; 15min; UR$36, UR$29 with STM card) goes to the centre, down Av 18 de Julio to the Plaza Independencia, loops around the Ciudad Vieja, then returns via the same route. The #183 runs to Pocitos. Obtain a free STM travel card from the Cutscsa office in the basement of Tres Cruces then top it up for cheaper fares.
Destinations International: Asunción, Paraguay (2 weekly; 22hr); Buenos Aires, Argentina (3 daily; 8–10hr); Córdoba, Argentina (daily; 15hr); Porto Alegre, Brazil (3 daily; 12hr); Rosario, Argentina (5 weekly; 9); Santiago, Chile (weekly; 28hr). National: Cabo Polonio (8 daily; 4hr); Carmelo (9 daily; 3hr 30min); Colonia del Sacramento (hourly; 2hr 45min); Minas (hourly; 1hr 40min–2hr 30min); Punta del Diablo (hourly; 4–5hr); Punta del Este (every 30min–every 2hr, 24hr a day; 2hr); Valizas (5 daily; 4–5hr).
Backpacker bus Summer Bus (42775781, summerbus.com) is a beach-hopping backpacker bus which conveniently picks you up from your hostel during summer months (Nov–April; hop-on-hop-off ticket to twelve beaches US$95).
By ferry.
Most points of interest are within walking distance of Plaza Independencia, while Pocitos and Punta Carretas are easily reached by bus. Note that the roads crossing Av 18 de Julio north–south change names either side of the main road.
By bus There are no route maps available, but there is a bus journey planner at montevideo.gub.uy/aplicacion/como-ir and a list of inner-city route numbers with destinations at cutcsa.com.uy. You can catch buses to most parts of the city from outside the Teatro Solís. Buses heading for the centre are marked “Aduana” or “Ciudad Vieja”. Ask for a “centrico” ticket (UR$36) if you’re only going within the centro, or a “común” (UR$40), cheaper with STM card. Buses run regularly from 6am until midnight, when services thin out dramatically.
By bike Renting a bike is a popular way to see the city, and the lovely Ramblas hugging the estuary beaches makes it easy. Most hostels rent bikes cheaply. If you’re staying for a while, it might be worth signing up to the free (after a one-off UR$140 fee) bike scheme. movete.montevideo.gub.uy (Spanish only).
By taxi Journeys within the city rarely amount to more than UR$200 in hailed street taxis or remises (minicabs). The meter does not give the fare but rather the distance, which corresponds to a pre-fixed rate (taxis should always have the rates displayed).
Tourist information The Minitur office on Rambla 25 de Agosto de 1825 at the end of Yacaré (daily 8am–5pm; 1885, turismo.gub.uy) has the best range of maps, leaflets and information in English in Uruguay. There are also information kiosks at the airport (daily 8am–9pm; 26040386), and at Tres Cruces bus station (daily 8am–9pm; 24097399). There are municipal tourist offices (daily: April–Nov 9am–5.30pm; Dec–March 11am–5pm; 29168434) on the port side of the Mercado del Puerto, as well as outside the Palacio Municipal (19508363).
City tours LB Tour (Carlos Quijano 1333, office 905, 29007159, lbtour.com.uy) run some of the most popular city tours in Montevideo, also available in Colonia; Tip-based Free Walking Tour (freewalkingtour.com.uy) does what it says on the tin. Soccer fans won’t do better than Fanaticos Fútbol Tours (099862325, futboltours.com.uy), who live and breathe the beautiful game (from US$50). Hostel Posada al Sur has responsible tourism in mind with tours that benefit locals.
Websites The website descubrimontevideo.uy has comprehensive tourist information, including an excellent downloadable guide in English (under Montevideo – Guía Práctica – Guía en Inglés). Look out for the Friendly Map Magazine (friendlymap.com.uy) at tourist information offices for LGBTQ listings. The ciudad y cultura section on government site montevideo.gub.uy (Spanish only) is great for cultural listings.
Although the Ciudad Vieja is dotted with cheap hotels and hostels, away from the pedestrianized Sarandí it can be unsafe at night. Barrio Sur is a good bet for character and excellently placed for the old town and nightlife, while Punta Carretas and Pocitos are best for safety, shopping, beaches and partying. Hostels usually offer bikes for rent and tango classes, and you can assume breakfast, internet and wi-fi, a/c and heat are provided unless otherwise mentioned. Prices are given for the cheapest bed or double room in high season, which starts in mid-Nov and ends after Carnaval.
Posada al Sur Pérez Castellano 1424 29165287, posadaalsur.com.uy; map. The most ethically conscious choice in Montevideo, with organic breakfasts and community-oriented tours. Light common areas enhance the buena onda (“good vibes”). Its location close to the port is great during the day, but you might want to take a taxi back at night. Dorms UR$510, doubles UR$1300, en-suite apartment UR$2100
Splendido Bartolomé Mitre 1314 29164900, splendidohotel.com.uy; map. This budget hotel with retro styling is truly splendid. All twenty rooms overlook Teatro Solís, and each has a different shabby-chic personality. There’s a kitchen you can use and the breakfast is good; the only downside is that it’s above the most popular bars in the Ciudad Vieja, so bring earplugs. Rooms sleep 1–5 people. Singles UR$1300, doubles UR$1600
Ukelele Maldonado 1183 between Michelini and Ruíz 29027844, ukelelehostel.com; map. You can relax in what was the family home of owner Patricia. This enormous house with soaring ceilings eschews the institutional feel and, unusually for Montevideo, has a large pool and pretty patio garden. Breakfast is simple, and, with no central heating, the place becomes fridge-like in winter. Dorms UR$511, doubles UR$1700
Treat yourself
El Palenque 29170190, elpalenque.com.uy; map. The atmospheric Mercado del Puerto has become a victim of its own success with most restaurants offering overpriced and distinctly average food. While El Palenque is a little overpriced (the UR$130 cover charge could buy you a whole meal elsewhere), it bucks the trend by serving truly excellent food. You’ll spend at least UR$600 for the fresh seafood and meat, cooked on the grill in front of you, but it’s worth it. Mon, Sat & Sun noon–5pm (last reservation) Tues–Fri noon–9pm. There’s also a branch in Punta del Este.
Pocitos Sarmiento 2641 27118780, pocitoshostel.com; map. Let the good times roll in one of the city’s most likeable – if cramped – backpacker joints, with a lovely garden and good rates on private rooms. The young owners also have a hostel in Colonia. Dorms UR$511, doubles UR$1420
Una Noche Mas Patria 712, Punta Carretas 96227406, unanochemas.com.uy; map. Delightful B&B in Carla and Eduardo’s home. Cosy rooms, a lovely roof terrace and an abundant breakfast with free coffee and tea 24/7. Doubles UR$4550
Café culture is big in Montevideo, with several galleries and design stores doubling as cafés and small restaurants, and there are some truly great eating experiences.
Brasilero Ituzaingó 1447 cafebrasilero.com.uy; map. Established in 1877, this is Montevideo’s most classic café, with cosy dark wooden walls and furniture. With its good, fresh food and huge selection of tea and coffee, it’s no wonder it has been favoured by Uruguayan literary giants such Mario Benedetti and Eduardo Galeano. Coffee and cake UR$100. Mon–Fri 9am–8pm, Sat 9am–6pm.
Confiteria 25 de Mayo 25 de Mayo 655, at Bartolomé Mitre; map. A patisserie/bakery with an unbeatable selection of snacks and takeaway lunches, known for mouth-watering pastries, sold by weight, adorning the windows. Mon–Sat 7am–9pm.
Parada Sur Paraguay 1049, at Gardel 29082327; map. A neighbourhood parrilla with friendly service, and whose walls and food are infused with gaucho tradition. For the less carnivorous there’s fish, pasta and salads too. Steak from UR$250. Mon & Sat 8pm–1am, Tues–Sun noon–4pm & 8pm–1am.
La Pasionaria Reconquista 587 lapasionaria.com.uy; map. This gourmet café, beloved among the city’s arty crowd, serves fresh, seasonal and inventive dishes and is tucked away in La Pasionaria art complex. Mains UR$280. Mon–Thurs 10am–6pm, Fri 8–11pm, Sat 11am–5pm.
La Pasiva Sarandí 600, at Plaza de la Constitución 29157988; map. A national institution for one thing and one thing only; panchos (hot dogs) and beer at the bar. This one is the original, but it is now a nationwide chain. Mon–Thurs 8am–1am, Fri 8am–2am, Sat 8am–3am.
Rincón de los Poetas San José 1312, at Yaguarón; 29015102; map. For big, cheap plates of comfort food, try this popular lunch and dinner spot above the artisan market in the beautiful old Mercado de la Abundancia. Menú del día UR$240–270. Mon–Sat 11.30am–11.30pm.
Rincón de Zabala Zabala 387, Ciudad Vieja and also at Buxareo 1321, Pocitos rdz.com.uy; map. Those really on a budget cannot do better than this empanada joint where everything is made to order and arrives piping hot. There are twenty fillings to choose from, both savoury and sweet. The molten dulce de leche filling is divine. Empanadas UR$30–50. Lunch only. Mon–Fri 11.30am–2.30pm.
Carbón, Sal y Leña España 2688, at Fco. Aguilar, Pocitos 27113422; map. A highly recommended parrilla run by a friendly husband and wife who cook the best steak in the city on their wood-fired grill. Imaginative sides, stir-fries and home-made pasta too. Mains UR$250–450. Tues–Sat from 8pm.
Philomène Solano García 2455, at Miñones 27111770 philomenecafe.com; map. An elegant, but cosy, French-style café serving some great light bites – including gourmet soups, sandwiches and salads (UR$240) – as well as the finest real tea in the city. Mon–Fri 9am–8.30pm, Sat 11am–8.30pm.
There are several good bars in the Ciudad Vieja, mainly along Bartolomé Mitre and Ciudadela. The area known as the “World Trade Centre” in Pocitos (Av Dr Luís A. de Herrera leading up from the Rambla República del Perú) has a huge number of bars and clubs, but they tend to be more expensive than in the centre. Bars open in the early evening and close in the early hours, when, at weekends, clubs will open.
Baar Fun Fun Soriano 922 29044859 barfunfun.com.uy; map. Open since 1895, Fun Fun has been visited by the likes of the Chilean president to Bryan Adams. You can watch some top tango singers and dancers while you try the house speciality drink, uvita (similar to grappa), for just UR$130.
Burlesque Av Dr Luís A. de Herrera 1136 29044859; map. One of the most popular bars in Pocitos, this Americana-themed place has a massive range of whiskies (more than 40), good Tex-Mex food and is a great place to start – or finish – on this buzzing nightlife boulevard. Mon–Fri 6pm–1am, Sat & Sun 7pm–2am.
Caín Dance Cerro Largo 1833 caindance.com; map. Uruguay is one of the most gay-friendly countries in South America and Caín is the friendliest gay club in town, getting its groove on every Friday and Saturday night. Opens at midnight, though no one goes before 3am.
Living Paullier 1044; map. A chilled-out grungy bar, between the centre and Pocitos, that will make you feel at home in Montevideo. The staff will join you for a shot of the house Grappamiel (UR$80), and DJs might take over the downstairs room. Wed–Sun 9pm–3/6am.
Museo del Vino Maldonado 1150 29083430, museodelvino.com.uy; map. Despite its name, this is no museum but a wine (only national wines are sold) and tango bar. Live music covers are UR$250, but the ambience is worth it. There are free milongas (community tango dances) every week. Tues–Sat from 9pm; tango classes Wed 8pm.
La Conjura Tristán Narvaja 1634, at Uruguay 091684957; map. A second-hand bookstore that also sells locally made clothes and has a cheap café (daily noon–8pm; menú del día UR$500), plus live Candombe, tango and Afro-Uruguayan beats (Fri & Sat 10.15pm–4am).
Joven Tango Mercado de la Abundancia, San José 1312 29015561, joventango.org; map. If you are a tango enthusiast, head to the food court of this market, which is converted into a dance-floor for classes followed by dancing. Mon–Fri 5–10pm.
Teatro Solís Reconquista s/n, corner of Mitre 19503323, teatrosolis.org.uy. Uruguayans are justly proud of their historic theatre. Shows the best of Uruguayan opera, music and theatre at subsidized prices. Tickets start at around UR$150.
Teatro de Verano Rambla Wilson, at Cachón 27124972, www.teatrodeverano.org.uy. For some of the biggest moments during Carnaval and to see international music stars, try this outdoor amphitheatre in Parque Rodó.
Cinemas Most films are shown in their original language with Spanish subtitles. The best selection is at Life Cinemas (ex Casablanca, Ellauri 350, at 21 de Septiembre; 27073037, lifecinemas.com.uy) in Punta Carretas, and the enormous Movicenter in Montevideo Shopping (Luis Alberto de Herrera 1290; 29003900, movie.com.uy) in Pocitos. Tickets cost UR$290.
Av 18 de Julio is Montevideo’s main commercial street, while there are some large malls located in Pocitos and Punta Carretas.
Bookshop Central shops at Sarandí 640 and at 18 de Julio 1296 with Yaguarón (shops 4–5); map. See bookshop.com.uy for locations (surcursales). Stocks a good range of English-language novels.
Esencia Uruguay Sarandí 359 esenciauruguay.com.uy; map. If you can’t get out to the bodegas in the countryside, sampling Uruguay’s fine wine selection at this pleasant shop may well be the next best thing.
Manos del Uruguay San José 1111; map. Stocks a range of high-quality woollen clothes, all of which are handmade using traditional methods in Uruguay by women working in co-operatives. Open Mon–Fri 10.30am–6.30pm, Sat 10am–2pm.
Mercado de los Artesanos Mercado de la Abundancia, San José 1312; map; Mercado de la Plaza, Plaza Cagancha; Espacio Cultural Barradas, Piedras 258, at Pérez Castellano, mercadodelosartesanos.com.uy. Three excellent indoor artisan markets where you can find original, high-quality souvenirs.
La Pasionaria Reconquista 587 lapasionaria.com.uy; map. A sophisticated multipurpose art complex housing a design store, boutique clothing shop, small gallery, and the excellent café Doméstico.
Banks and exchange You’ll find ATMs in Tres Cruces Terminal, and branches of all the major banks along Av 18 de Julio in the centre, or at the World Trade Centre in Pocitos.
Embassies and consulates Argentina, Cuareim 1470 (29028623); Australia, Cerro Largo 1000 (29010743); Brazil, Artigas 1394 (27072119); Canada, Plaza Independencia 749, office number 102 (29022030); South Africa, Dr Gabriel Otero 6337 (26017591); UK, Marco Bruto 1073 (26223630); US, Lauro Muller 1776 (17702000).
Hospital Hospital Británico, near Tres Cruces Bus Station on Italia 2400 (24871020), offers good private healthcare.
Internet and phone Cyber Fast, Treinta y Tres 1375, at Sarandí, is open Mon–Fri 9am–7pm.
Laundry Most of the hostels have cheap laundry services. There are no self-service laundrettes but Lavadero Mis Niños, at Andes 1333 in Ciudad Vieja, charges UR$240 to wash and dry a backpack full of clothes.
Post office Misiones 1328 (Ciudad Vieja), at Ejido; between San José and Soriano (central).
Tourist police Uruguay 1667, at Minas (08008226).
Although Western Uruguay is often neglected by visitors heading for the eastern beaches, Colonia del Sacramento, just one hour away from Buenos Aires, is the most common point of entry for tourists – especially Argentine day-trippers – as well as being one of the most beautiful and intriguing towns on the whole continent. The even sleepier Carmelo is small Uruguayan town personified, where you can get out into the vineyards or relax at the quiet riverside beaches.
Originally a seventeenth-century Portuguese smuggling port designed to disrupt the Spanish base of Buenos Aires across the Río de la Plata, COLONIA DEL SACRAMENTO (often referred to simply as “Colonia”) is a picturesque town with charming little museums, plenty of outdoor activities and some of the best foodie culture in Uruguay. Despite an increasing number of tourists visiting, the town retains a sleepy indifference to the outside world and merits more than just a day-trip to get to know it.
Start your trip at BIT, the “Uruguay experience”, the country’s flagship tourist information centre (Odriozola 434; daily 10am–7pm; 45221072, bitcolonia.com; free), two blocks from both the bus terminal and ferry port. It’s architecturally interesting – built in a modernist glass box at the old railway station, beautifully integrated with the disused tracks – and is also a fantastic source of information for both Colonia and the whole country. From there it’s an easy stroll around the atmospheric Barrio Histórico (old quarter), or there’s an easy half-day excursion on foot or by bus to the eerie abandoned resort of Real de San Carlos.
At the southwestern corner of the plaza is the 1857-constructed lighthouse (daily 10am–1pm & 2.30pm–sunset; UR$25), which affords great views from the cupola, while at the southeastern corner lie the remains of the old (if heavily restored) city gateway, the Portón de Campo. Once charged with protecting the important trade centre from invading forces, now they permanently separate old Colonia from the “new” city.
A few blocks north of the plaza, along Vasconcellos, the Iglesia Matríz claims to be the oldest church in Uruguay, with some columns from the original Portuguese building constructed in 1730.
Dotted around the Barrio Histórico, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a series of nine modest museums (all 11.15am–4.45pm, each closed one day a week on different days; joint ticket for all nine UR$50; museoscolonia.com.uy). The Museo Municipal (closed Tues), on the west side of Plaza Mayor, is the only place you can buy the joint ticket. It houses town treasures and a small natural history museum and is worth a peek around. A few of the other museums deserve a look if you have time, especially the restored Casa Nacarello (closed Tues), next to the Museo Municipal, whose tiny rooms, with period furnishings, give you a taste of colonial life. The Museo del Período Histórico Portugés (between De Solís and De los Suspiros on the Plaza; closed Wed & Fri) is also worth a visit; you’ll find some fine azulejos (tiles) here, and the internal walls are constructed in rectangular and diagonal brick patterns, dating back to around 1720.
The similarly named Museo del Período Histórico Español (De España, at De San José; closed Wed), at the north end of the Barrio Histórico, also exhibits colonial items, but, most interestingly, has seven evocative oil paintings by Uruguay’s most famous contemporary painter, Carlos Páez Vilaró, creator of Casapueblo, depicting important moments in Colonia’s history.
If you wander along the piers on the northern edge of the Barrio Histórico, you’ll notice the striking red-brick Bastión del Carmen (Rivadavia 223; Tues–Sun 1–8pm; free; 45227201), with walls dating from the time of Governor Vasconcellos (1722–49). Once a fortress, it was converted into a factory producing soap and gelatine products in the 1880s, and a chimney from that period still stands. Today it operates as a cultural centre, with a theatre, gallery and a small museum dedicated to its history.
Outside of Colonia’s centre, the only other attraction is the Real de San Carlos. The brainchild of millionaire Nicolas Mihanovic, who conceived it as an exclusive tourist complex for rich Argentines, it now lies largely deserted. Between 1903 and 1912, he constructed a magnificent bullring, which was used only eight times in two years, a frontón (Basque pelota) court which now lies decaying, and a racecourse, which is the only part of the resort still operational.
Regular horse races take place, and the horses can frequently be seen exercising along the nearby beach. If you fancy a ride yourself, the Hostel Colonial organizes horseriding trips for up to two hours (UR$850) to forests and wineries outside town. To get there either walk the 5km north along the rambla, or catch a bus (10min) from the bottom end of Avenida General Flores.
By bus and ferry The terminal and port are located next to each other three blocks to the south of Av General Flores (the main street). The town centre is a 10min walk to the west along Manuel Lobo. Ferries run by Buquebus, Colonia Express and Seacat run to Buenos Aires every couple of hours (1–3hr; UR$600–1500 one-way).
Destinations by bus Carmelo (every 2hr Mon–Sat, 5 daily Sun; 45min–1hr 30min); Montevideo (every 1–2hr; 2hr 45min).
Tourist information Colonia has no shortage of tourist information centres. BIT is the main one; there’s another branch on Manuel Lobo by the Portón de Campo, run by the Intendencia (daily 9am–6pm; 45228506, coloniaturismo.com), and smaller offices in the bus and ferry terminals.
Tour operators Local operator Borra Vino Wine Tours (093724893, borravinowinetours.com) can take you on vineyard tours around Colonia and Carmelo around US$100/person for a half-day tour. City walks with professional guides start at the tourist information office on Lobo daily at 11am and 3pm (UR$150; 099379167). Bus Túristico Colonia (busturistico.com.uy) runs a bus tour (US$25) and walking tour (US$20).
The standard of budget accommodation in Colonia is dire and prices are higher than elsewhere, though most are central. It’s worth investigating the out-of-town Estancia El Galope or splashing out more for a nicer place such as El Nido. Breakfast is included unless otherwise stated. For a comprehensive list of hotels and hostels by star rating, try hotelesencolonia.com.
Treat yourself
If you are tired of tackling Colonia’s cobbles on foot, several companies offer motor-scooters (UR$290/hr), two-person buggies or even four-person golf carts (both UR$710/hr) to rampage around the streets. Motorent (Manuel Lobo 505 & Virrey Cevallos 223; 45229665, motorent.com.uy) have the best prices. Relevant driving licence needed.
Sur Rivadavia 448, at Mendez 45220553, surhostel.com; map. The lovely lads who run this and Pocitos Hostel in Montevideo have made it their mission to spread buena onda (“good vibes”) among their guests, and the staff are always on hand to give a local perspective. Dorms UR$450, doubles UR$1200
El Viajero Hostel & Suites/B&B Posada W. Barbot 164 45222683; Odriozola 269 45228645, elviajerohostels.com; map. Success has made this Uruguayan chain of HI hostels feel a little formulaic and institutional, but it is a reliable choice. In Colonia, there is a hostel with some “suites” (private rooms), and around the corner is a “B&B Posada” offering nice private rooms with TV, some with river views. Dorms UR$570, suites UR$900, B&B Posada doubles UR$2250
These hotels provide rooms with TV, private bathrooms and a free breakfast.
El Capullo 18 de Julio 219 45230135, elcapullo.com; map. This boutique hotel is stylish yet cosy, with a gorgeous garden, swimming pool and a great breakfast buffet. Not cheap, but head and shoulders above other places which charge only a couple of hundred pesos less. UR$3900
El Nido Tula Suárez de Cutinella s/n, Paraje El Caño 45203223, facebook.com/elnidocolonia; map. Two adorable treehouses with well-equipped kitchens overlooking vineyards a true really laidback experience 8km from downtown Colonia. There is also a country cottage for rent. Bring provisions. UR$2700
Rivera Rivera 131 45220807, hotelrivera.com.uy; map. A comfy hotel with an Alpine feel, conveniently located a block from the bus terminal and port with rooms for up to five. UR$2465
Treat yourself
No visit to the countryside would be complete without a stay or at least a daytime visit to an estancia – a working ranch; note that estancias turísticas are essentially rural hotels (download a list from turismo.gub.uy).
El Galope 50km west of Colonia near Colonia Suiza, elgalope.com.uy. One of the few estancias run with backpackers in mind, English-speaking owners Miguel and Mónica aim to provide “a holiday from your holiday”, offering R’n’R, Uruguayan style. With horseriding, a sauna and great food all priced separately, you can choose how much or how little you do (meals UR$200–300, horseriding UR$850). Dorms UR$710, doubles UR$1930
Although restaurants in the Barrio Histórico are pricey, the quality on the whole is excellent and the ambience is hard to beat.
La Bodeguita Del Comercio 167 45225329, labodeguita.net; map. Buzzing, stylish place whose three terraces overlooking the river get crowded with people who’ve heard rumours of the best pizzas in town (UR$190). Tues–Sun from 8pm, Sat & Sun 12.30–3.30pm.
Buen Suspiro Calle de los Suspiros 90 45226160; map. On the most photographed street in Uruguay, only recognizable by a discreet sign, this intimate foodie heaven specializes in fine wines, cheeses, charcuterie and preserves attractively served on platters for sharing (as a main for two UR$360–650). Reservations recommended. Mon & Thurs–Sun 11am–midnight.
Lentas Maravillas Santa Rita 61, 45220636; map. If you’ve got an afternoon to relax you won’t find a cosier way to do it than perusing owner Maggie’s English-language books in front of the fire or on the riverside deck. Inventive baked goods with a superb carrot cake, gourmet sandwiches (UR$320) and hot drinks. Mon–Thurs & Sun 1–8pm, weekends only April–Nov.
Mi Carrito Rivadavia 302, at Lavalleja; map. There is nowhere locals rave about for budget food more than this food truck selling the best bad food you’ll ever eat. Try the epic milanesa for two with every topping imaginable (UR$190), or the pancho wrapped in bacon with mozzarella (UR$100). Mon–Sat 11.30am–4pm & 8.30pm–1am, Sun 11.30am–4pm
Viejo Barrio Vasconcellos 169 45225339; map. This otherwise decent Italian restaurant serves the best veal milanesas (schnitzel) this side of Vienna, including one stuffed with ham and cheese (UR$380). Mon & Thurs–Sun 10am–4pm & 6–11pm, Tues 10am–4pm.
Barbot Washington Barbot 160; map. Notable for being the first craft brewer in town, Barbot is buzzy, friendly and pulls a mean pint of IPA. Its central location in a revamped colonial house means there are plenty of corners to kick back in. Also serves up decent pizza and Tex-Mex (UR$200–450). Wed–Sun from 6pm.
Tr3s Cu4tro Alberto Mendez 295; map. Their slogan says it all: “One building, two courtyards, three dancefloors, four bars, steaming hot”. A great Uruguayan boliche (bar/nightclub), good for a few drinks, or for staying up all night. There is an entry fee (UR$100–200), but once you get in, food and drinks are reasonably priced. There’s often live music too. Wed–Sat from 11pm.
The Barrio Histórico is littered with fashionable, pricey boutiques selling locally made as well as more generic leather goods, but the best deals for handicrafts are to be found at either the fería or the artisans’ market (Dr Daniel Fosalba; daily 10am–6pm).
El Abrazo Flores 272; map. A commendable little shop selling Uruguay-specific books, including English translations of national authors Benedetti and Galeano, music, and locally made gifts and clothes. Daily 10am–7pm.
Colonia Shopping Roosevelt 458 coloniashopping.com.uy; map. Mall with all the expected facilities, including a cinema.
Banks and exchange Av General Flores is the main commercial street and has many banks, casas de cambio and ATMs.
Hospital 18 de Julio between Rivera and Mendez.
Internet Free wi-fi in the Plaza 25 de Agosto, computers either at the main Antel office, or there’s an internet café at Flores 172, open until 9pm every night.
Laundry Arco Iris on Suárez between Flores and 28 de Julio.
Post office and telephone Correo Uruguayo and Antel have offices next to each other on Lavalleja on Plaza 25 de Agosto, and share an office in the ferry terminal.
Taxi A 24hr service is run from the corner of Flores with Mendez (45222920).
Tourist Police At the main comisaría on Flores opposite Plaza 25 de Mayo (21527100).
Bodega Familia Irurtia Ing. Quim. Dante Irurtia & Paraje Curupi 98874281, irurtia.com.uy. Founded in 1913 by Don Lorenzo Irurtia, this winery remains in the family’s capable hands. Book ahead for a guided visit of the vineyards and bodega before tasting some Tannat, Pinot Noir and Malbec in a cellar steeped in history. Daily 10am–4pm.
Narbona Wine Lodge Av Ruta 21, Km268 45446831, narbona.com.uy. If staying at this stunning complex is way out of your budget at UR$9400 for a double, at least a wine tasting is within reach. Comprising the old cellar dating back to 1909 and a more contemporary one, sample a variety of Narbona’s wares at a tasting or at the country cottage-style restaurant.
Despite being the only town founded by Uruguayan hero General Artigas in 1816, CARMELO isn’t as historically rich as nearby Colonia del Sacramento. However, it does offer a good supply of natural resources, from quiet and pristine riverside beaches to rolling hills and boutique wineries. Carmelo is slowly picking up speed as a popular, if pricey, destination for those in the know. The town is also a good base from which to visit legendary meat-extraction town Fray Bentos, 136km up river.
Local wineries welcome visitors to wine and olive-oil tastings; once the hard work is out the way, kick back on one of the sandy beaches. Playa Sere, at Av Grito de Asencio and Avenida Del Exodo, a fifteen-minute walk from downtown, is a shady and peaceful part of the coastline, with uninterrupted expanses of white sand.
When the Anglo meat-packing factory opened in Fray Bentos in 1858, it proved the industrial revolution had arrived on the shores of the River Plate. The plant-turned-museum Museo de la Revolución Industrial, Rambla Andrés Montaño, Fray Bentos (daily 9.30am–5.30pm; guided visits 2pm Tues, Fri & Sat UR$50, 3pm Fri & Sun UR$90; 1935, museo.anglo@rionegro.gub.uy), showcases the beginnings of Uruguay’s beef industry – as well as offering a trip down foodie memory lane for Brits of a certain age. Agencia Central buses leave Carmelo twice a day for Fray Bentos (18 de Julio 811; 45422987).
By plane Carmelo has a small international airport, Zagarzazú, with small charter flights and private planes arriving from San Fernando in Argentina.
By bus Although plans are afoot for a central bus station, buses arrive and depart at their own office. Berrutti (from Colonia) is located at Uruguay 337 (45422504), while Agencia Central (Sabelin and Chardre lines from Montevideo) is at 18 de Julio 411 (454222987).
Destinations Colonia (hourly; 1hr 30min); Montevideo (8 daily; 3hr).
By boat The Cacciola arrives twice daily to Carmelo from Tigre in Argentina.
Tourist information 19 de Abril 246, Casa de la Cultura (daily 9am–6pm, 45423840).
If it’s time to splash out, the delightful Narbona Wine Lodge is a real treat.
Camping Naútico Carmelo Rambla de Carmelo, south of the stream 45422058, dnhcarmelo@adinet.com.uy. Well-sized campsite close to Playa Sere beach catering for up to 300 people. Clean bathrooms are a bonus, while asadores in the making can make use of the grills. Two-person tent UR$250
CampoTinto Camino de los Peragrinos, Colonia Estrella 45427744, posadacampotinto.com. Treat yourself to one of the four rooms at this lovely posada set among Tannat vineyards 5km out of town. Breakfast is abundant, service professional, and there’s an on-site restaurant, swimming pool and bikes for borrowing. UR$4400
Posada del Navegante Rodó 383 45423973, posadadelnavegante.com. A stone’s throw from the beach, this simple eight-room hotel comes with most mod cons. UR$2500
El Horno 19 de Abril 101, at Ignacio Barros 45422555. Locals rave about the wood-oven pizzas and chivito at this place. Great service helps tip the balance at this joint. UR$250–350. Wed–Mon & Wed–Sun noon–midnight, Tues 8pm–midnight.
Piccolino 19 de Abril, at Roosevelt 45424850. More of the same fodder at this decent diner opposite the main square serving up well-priced Uruguayan staples (UR$300–UR$400. Daily except Tues 10.30am–1am.
Some of South America’s most undiscovered natural beauty awaits you in Uruguay’s interior. This is real gaucho country and it’s easily accessible, if little known about. While most of the interior is unknown to tourists, largely because it’s mostly covered in vast ranches, some of Uruguay’s finest and least explored pastoral landscapes are within reach of Minas, a small town with a big history.
Just 120km from Montevideo, but far from the usual backpacker trail, MINAS, the capital of the Lavalleja department, is an excellent base for exploring the rolling hills and romantic traditions of Uruguay’s interior – you won’t have to go far before you see a genuine mounted gaucho wearing a poncho and clutching his mate. Delving into this region’s history can give you a deeper understanding of the Uruguayan mentality and the nation’s history.
In Minas, there are some interesting museums worth visiting, as well as pleasant parks, but around Minas is where the real fun lies. Parque del Salto Penitente, in craggy moor-like countryside, offers outdoor adventures aplenty, while Villa Serrana is a copse of isolated houses offering complete rest and relaxation in pretty surroundings.
Most of the region’s draw lies in the rolling hills surrounding the town, but there are some cultural surprises here that warrant a pause before heading out into the countryside. The city is easily navigated; the main shopping street, 18 de Julio, is parallel with Avenida Treinta y Tres which runs along the north side of the main square, Plaza Libertad, and onwards to the bus terminal. Full of palm trees and with a horseback statue of the national hero Juan Lavalleja, who lends his name to the department, Plaza Libertad is a pleasant place to sit and enjoy a pastry from one of the country’s most renowned patisseries.
One block south of the main plaza is the excellent series of museums housed in the Casa de la Cultura (Lavalleja 572, at Rodó; daily 8am–6pm; free), including rooms displaying gaucho artefacts from the nineteenth century and a room dedicated to Uruguayan composer Eduardo Fabini. Independence leader Lavalleja’s childhood house sits in the central courtyard; one of the forty original houses from the town’s foundation, it has been restored, but its original ceiling beams made from palm trees are intact.
The city’s most surprising building is the grand old Teatro Lavalleja (Batlle y Ordoñez between Florencio Sánchez and Sarandí), a magnificent brick construction finished in 1909, with regular productions and also housing the odd Museo del Humor y la Historieta (Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat & Sun 1–6pm; free), dedicated to caricatures.
The city is surrounded by some very pleasant parks. Cerro Artigas is worth visiting for its great views of the city and surrounding hills, as well as its imposing 10m-high concrete statue of the liberator Artigas on his horse, said to be one of the largest equine statues in the world. Avenida Varela goes all the way to Cerro Artigas from central Minas – around a 45-minute walk – or a taxi costs UR$200.
At the heart of this private natural reserve is a delicate waterfall, the eponymous Salto del Penitente, which falls some 60m before following its course. Here there is a restaurant (open daily for lunch), precariously cantilevered off the hillside over the falls, as well as a hostel and terrace affording graceful views across the park, all under the same management (44403096, saltodelpenitente.com). Sleeping is in shared wood cabins (UR$1500), or you can camp, and there’s a rustic common room with an open fire. Activities include horseriding, rock-climbing, zip-wiring and abseiling (all UR$350–500), as well as hiking and birdwatching. It’s tricky to get to without a car, but the management can collect you from Minas or a taxi is around UR$1000.
With zero amenities, other than a handful of places to stay, it’s hard to even award Villa Serrana village status; it’s more a cluster of houses 25km from Minas. However, its location is Elysian, perching on top of a horseshoe string of hills around a lake, with splendid walking, fishing and horseriding opportunities – not to mention magical sunsets. Its other major attraction is a remarkable historic hotel, the Ventorrillo de la Buena Vista, designed by Uruguayan architect Julio Vilamajó, which attracts architecture fans from across the world. Built in 1946, its brilliance lies in its synthesis with its surroundings, and it has been tastefully restored to run as a splendid restaurant and inn. There are just two buses a week to and from Minas to Villa Serrana (Tues & Thurs 9am & 5.30pm, returning shortly after that; 30min), but if you’re staying there you’ll probably be able to arrange a lift with your hosts. Taxis cost UR$1300.
By bus Intercity and local buses arrive and depart from the Terminal de Omnibuses (44429791), three blocks west of Plaza Libertad on Treinta y Tres between Claudio Williman and Sarandí.
Destinations Montevideo (hourly; 1hr 40min–2hr 30min); Punta del Este (10 daily; 2hr); Villa Serrana (4 weekly; 30min).
Taxi 24hr service from the Plaza Libertad (095749380). Set prices to surrounding areas.
Tourist information At the bus station (daily 8am–7pm; 44429796, lavalleja.gub.uy).
It’s worth booking ahead; accommodation is limited and fills up fast, especially during Minas’ large festivals over nine days in October and on April 9.
Camping Arequita 10km north of town on Ruta 12 44402503, lavalleja.gub.uy/web/lavalleja/campingarequita. Set in pleasant grounds at the foot of Cerro Verdún (a grand rocky peak with caves to explore), each plot has electricity and a barbecue. Horseriding can be arranged, but there’s no internet. 12km from town; buses from Minas run Dec–Feb. Self-catering cabins UR$1600, mini-cabins (beds only) UR$800, camping/person UR$160
Posada Verdún Dr Washington Beltrán 715, at Beltrán 44424563, hotelposadaverdun.com. The same family has run this posada, the best-value place in town, for more than two decades. The rooms are clean with private bathrooms and TV; there’s also a recommended restaurant. Doubles (includes breakfast) UR$1700
Villa Serrana B&B The green thatched house in Villa Serrana 098280811. Owned by the exuberant Zen López, who speaks fluent English, the house has three spacious rooms and is decorated with flea-market finds and bright colours. There is also an adjacent self-catering bungalow for groups. Horseriding and other day-trips in the country can be arranged. Doubles UR$1900, bungalow (up to 8 people, breakfast not included) UR$2600
Confitería Irisarri Treinta y Tres 618, Plaza Libertad 44422038 confiteriairisarri.com.uy. A family business originating in 1898, this confectionery shop and tearoom is one of the great treats in the region. Try their speciality – yemas – bonbons designed to look like egg yolks. Selection of pastries with coffee UR$100. Daily 9am–9pm.
Ki-Joia Domingo Pérez 489, Plaza Libertad 4442 5884. A surprisingly modern, decent-value parrilla with quick and friendly service and alfresco tables overlooking the plaza. The meat is good and the home-made pasta is excellent. Mains UR$220–500. Daily 6pm–1am; parrilla open from 8pm.
Ventorrillo de la Buena Vista Villa Serrana 44402109, ventorrillodelabuenavista.com.uy. The name means “Good View Inn”, and if you can’t afford the UR$2000 for a double designer room (each has a living room with working fireplace as well as bed and bath), at least eat at the restaurant and enjoy one of the best views and meals in Uruguay (mains UR$250–450). Try the borego confitado – lamb, date and walnuts with beetroot pasta. Mon–Fri 10am–9pm, or 11.30pm at weekends for dinner.
Banks and exchange Av 18 de Julio is the main commercial street and has many banks, casas de cambio and ATMs.
Hospital On Av Pedro Varela between Maldonado and Dighiero 44422058.
Internet Cyber Peatonal on 25 de Mayo charges UR$20/hr.
Police Off Plaza Libertad down Vidal, at Fuentes.
Post office Wáshington Beltrán, at 25 de Mayo.
Uruguay’s biggest draw is its vast, and largely unspoilt, coastline. Humans have made their mark with balnearios (coastal resorts or villages), each with very personalities. Between Maldonado and Rocha departments you can choose between the hedonistic party life in Punta del Este, the isolated and rugged Cabo Polonio, the blissful beaches and dunes of Valizas or wild surfing and nightlife in Punta del Diablo, all with shimmering lagoons full of birdlife in between.
The towns are easy to hop between, especially in the summer, but they change drastically off-season; in winter, everything shuts down and they can feel completely deserted. Other than in luxurious Punta del Este, be sure to come with enough cash to fuel your stay; there are no banks or ATMs in the smaller villages.
Situated on a narrow peninsula 140km east of Montevideo, PUNTA DEL ESTE – simply called Punta – is a jungle of high-rise hotels, expensive restaurants, casinos and designer stores bordered by some of the finest beaches on the coast. Exclusive, luxurious and often prohibitively expensive, between this and the nearby towns of La Barra and José Ignacio, this is the place to be seen for many South American celebrities in summer.
The best thing to do in Punta is what everyone else does: hit the beach during the day and go drinking at night. Within striking distance and well worth the trip is the whitewashed Casapueblo, a remarkable villa and art gallery.
These are what attract most visitors to Punta del Este, and two of the best are on either side of the neck of the peninsula. Playa Mansa on the bay side is a huge, arcing stretch of sand, with plenty of space for sunbathing and gentle waves, while Playa Brava on the eastern side is where you go if you’re serious about surfing, or simply to compare your height to the fingers of the uncanny Hand in the Sand sculpture, one of Uruguay’s most famous sights. Both sides are commonly referred to by these names, although there are actually many beaches with their own names.
From Playa Mansa, there are excellent views out to the wooded Isla de Gorriti, once visited by Sir Francis Drake (boats daily in high season if sufficient demand; UR$400/person). Slightly further off the coast lies the Isla de Lobos, home to one of the largest sea-lion colonies in the world. Calypso (opposite La Galerna at the entrance to the harbour; 424461521, calypso.com.uy) offer expensive tours, though if you just want to see sea lions, it’s worth heading down to the port itself in the early morning: they are often out sunbathing as the fishermen set sail.
Life on the peninsula offers a glimpse of what the town must have been like when it was a modest holiday village a few decades back – the port area up to Plaza el Faro is charmingly old-world and the houses represent a host of architectural styles not present in the identikit luxury developments that have sprung up all along the adjacent coastal roads.
The area’s best sight is the vision of Uruguayan artist Carlos Páez Vilaró – Casapueblo (daily 10am–sunset; UR$240 for entry to museum; upwards of UR$6000 for a room out of high season; 42578041, carlospaezvilaro.com.uy & clubhotelcasapueblo.com). He started the construction himself in the late 1950s, and today it’s an unwieldy yet strangely beautiful villa, restaurant, hotel and art gallery clinging to the side of a craggy peninsula 15km west of Punta. Bright white and lacking any right angles, it’s well worth a visit to see Vilaró’s artwork and have a cocktail in the bar at sunset. To get there, take any bus from the terminal towards Montevideo and ask to be dropped at the entrance to Punta Ballena, from where you’ll have a thirty-minute walk up along the peninsula. A taxi will cost UR$700–800.
Sandwiched between forested hills on one side and golden beaches on the other, La Barra took over as the fashionable place to stay for those tired of the Punta crowds, and its characterful houses are set along tree-lined dirt tracks which preserve its rustic feel. With gentrification, hippy cafés have been replaced with designer clothing stores, but it’s still the place for summer nightlife, with new “it” clubs, bars and restaurants springing up each year. One kilometre from the famous undulating bridge connecting Punta with La Barra, you’ll find the frankly bizarre Museo del Mar & Insectario (well signposted; daily 10.30am–5.30pm/8.30pm; UR$160; 42771817, museodelmar.com.uy), whose intriguing collection of marine artefacts includes a mind-boggling array of seashells, insects, and a 19m whale skeleton.
Addresses are often given by their parada – or bus stop number – which you’ll see on poles in the middle of the large dual carriageway – the Costanera – which hugs the coast either side of PdE. The streets in the peninsula have names and numbers, but addresses usually give their numbers.
By bus Punta del Este’s bus station lies at the top end of Av Gorlero, just past the roundabout, at the neck of the peninsula. It’s a 10min walk to the port along Av Gorlero, or a 5min walk to Playas Mansa or Brava. To reach the beaches further east, you need to get back to the main Ruta 9 by catching the #1 or #2 bus from Punta del Este to San Carlos (every 15min–1hr; 50min) from C 20 (winter), or C 26 (summer). From there most buses with Chuy as the destination will stop in Punta del Diablo (2hr 30min), or get off at Castillos for connecting buses to Cabo Polonio or Valizas. Alternatively, there are two buses direct to Castillos each day (11am & 5pm) from Punta’s terminal.
Destinations Minas (4–7 daily; 2hr); Montevideo (every 30min; 2hr).
Local buses #9, #12, #17, #19 and #24 go from C 20 (winter), or C 26 (summer) to Maldonado via Punta Shopping (every 30min; daily 6am–11pm; 20min). Codesa buses go from the terminal to La Barra, Manantiales and José Ignacio (Mon–Sat hourly 5.20am–midnight; Sun 6am–9pm; more buses in summer). See codesa.com.uy for timetables (horarios).
Taxis Taxi stands by the beaches, on Gorlero and at the bus terminal. Minicabs are sometimes cheaper than metered cabs – Punta can get snarled up with traffic. Try Conrad Remises at Artigas, at Chiverta (42490302), or driver José Techera (098447000).
Information, tours and activities
Tourist information National tourist office at Gorlero 942, at C 30 (high season: daily 10am–1.30pm & 2.30–6pm; low season: Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–4pm). Local tourist office in Plaza Artigas (daily 8am–5pm or later in high season; 42446510), and in the bus terminal. The website welcomeuruguay.com has good information in English.
Tour operators Most tour companies offer city tours (usually including Casapueblo), boat trips, vineyard and ranch tours, as well as organizing motorized transport such as Segways and quad bikes, or renting cars or bikes. Hostels generally provide the most backpacker-friendly tours, but try A.G.T. (42490570, agtviajesyturismo.com) in the bus terminal, or DW Service (Artigas, at Chiverta; 94440812, dwservice.net). Nationwide tour operators covering Punta are also worth checking out.
Surfing Sunvalley Surf (42481388, sunvalleysurf.com) has two stores in Punta, one at Playa El Emir (C 28, at Rambla Artigas) on the peninsula and the other at Playa Brava, between paradas 3 and 4 (daily 11am–7pm all year), and another opposite the Nike shop in La Barra (daily 11am–11pm all year).
In the summer months (Dec–Feb) accommodation is wildly overpriced (you may pay upwards of US$40 for a dorm bed), yet this does not put people off; book at least a month in advance. In winter you won’t need to book and prices will be affordable again, but most hostels close down completely. Options listed here are open year-round (except the campsite). If you’re stuck, try the tourist information offices, who can help with accommodation.
San Rafael Aparicio Saravia s/n 800m from Parada 30 42486715, campingsanrafael.com.uy; map. Set in pleasant woods, this campsite has a minimart and wi-fi, and lies just 1km from La Barra. It’s 15 percent cheaper off season and there are other discounts for longer stays; closed April–Oct. Camping/person UR$360, self-catering cabin (sleeps four) UR$3500
Several buses run every hour (and throughout the night in high season) to La Barra and Manantiales (10min). Dorm beds in January can cost upwards of UR$1000, but quickly fall back to normal prices after that. Prices are given for the cheapest dorm beds and doubles in Jan, breakfast included.
Iguana de La Barra C 8, at Ruta 10, La Barra 42772947, iguanadelabarra.hostel.com; map. The friendly owners have made their home welcoming and relaxing, with built-in beds instead of bunks in private rooms, and a fireplace downstairs. Dorms UR$450, doubles US$1140
Tas d’Viaje C 25, at 27 & 28 42448789, tasdviaje.com; map. A good choice in the hostel scene in Punta, which can be grotty. This place feels like home and is probably the best located of all the hostels, right in the centre of the peninsula. Dorms UR$1200, doubles UR$1800
El Viajero Brava Beach Salazar, at Charrúa 42480331, elviajerohostels.com; map. Part of the successful Uruguayan chain, this house on the edge of the peninsula has a large common room with a pool table and fireplace. In high season a second hostel opens at Manantiales beach (Ruta 10 Km164, just past La Barra), 11km away from Punta, which, outside of Dec–Jan, can be around half the cost. Dorms UR$750, en-suite twins UR$5300
Hotel rates are typically more reasonable in Maldonado, 20min by bus from Punta (take the #10 from C 20).
Colonia 18 de Julio 884, Maldonado 42223346, colonialhotel.com.uy; see map. An old-fashioned hotel with modern touches. Located opposite San Fernando church, and Playa Mansa is 1.5km away. Price includes breakfast. Doubles UR$2860, apartment UR$5300
The peninsula is packed with expensive restaurants, and even the best-value places are pricey, though there are bargains if you look around. Restaurants usually go by standard Uruguayan opening hours out of season, but in summer you can eat until about 2am. For very cheap fast food, head to Av Gorlero, where places are open 24hr in high season. Cheap seafood is not available in restaurants, so try the stalls below the port for the freshest hauls and cook at your hostel.
Cilantro C 29, at Gorlero; map. Vegetarians can tuck into abundant fresh salads at this central spot, which also serves decent sandwiches and veggie burgers for under UR$500. Tues–Sun 9am–4pm & 7pm–1am.
La Milonguera Joaquín Lenzina, at Blvd Artigas; map. The big wagon wheel outside characterizes this rustic parrilla, popular with locals, which serves tasty grilled meat such as vacío and pastas at fair prices. Mains UR$450–500. Daily noon–4pm, 8pm–midnight.
Pecas Gorlero, at Las Focas, heladeriapecas.com.uy; map. Better than its rivals across the street, and slightly cheaper (ice cream: two flavours and two toppings UR$120), Pecas also serves breakfasts. Daily 9am–late.
Pura Vida Ruta 10 Km160, behind the petrol station in La Barra, 4277 2938 puravidaresto.com; map. Informal but elegant restaurant with a slow food ethos and a huge range of interesting dishes, including plenty for vegetarians. Worth the trip to La Barra (mains UR$350–600). Summer daily 10–12.30am; winter Mon, Wed, Thurs & Sun 11am–5pm, Fri & Sat 11am–11.45pm.
Punta is home to a wild nightlife scene; most bars serve drinks from midday, but the real parties start at around 2am and rarely end before sunrise. The top clubs change every season; check ilovepunta.com.
Moby Dick Pub Artigas 650, 42441240 mobydick.com.uy; map. The only reliable and down-to-earth watering hole in town, albeit with inflated prices. There’s a good range of cocktails (UR$350) to sip outside as you watch the ships go by, and there’s also live music and food. Daily from noon; low season daily from 5pm.
Negroni Beach Bar Ruta 10, Km164.5, 094363400, negronibistrobar.com; map. This Buenos Aires fixture pops up each summer, offering a great if pricey range of cocktails designed by celebrity bartenders (UR$450). In the thick of things in Manantiales, burgers are one of the menu highlights (UR$450). Daily from noon; high season only.
Ocean Club Parada 12, Playa Brava; map. A multi-room venue right on the beach, and one of just two clubs that are open year-round (women free before 2am, men around UR$400), this place is flashy and loud, playing pop, rock and house. Dress to impress. Opens 1am Fri & Sat.
Between Gorlero and the huge mall Punta Shopping (Roosevelt between Los Alpes and Gattas; puntashopping.com.uy), you’ll find most services, including a supermarket, cinema and bowling. There’s a pleasant artisan market (daily in summer, weekends only in low season, 10am–6pm) in Plaza Artigas.
Banks ATMs are located along Gorlero, and at Punta Shopping.
Hospital Hospital de Maldonado, in Maldonado (Continuación Ventura Alegre; 42559137, hospitaldemaldonado.com).
Laundry Espumas del Virrey, C 28, at 18.
Police 2 de Febrero, at Artigas (21525221).
Post office Gorlero 1035.
Moving east from brash Punta del Este can be a shock to the system – the balnearios thin out and become increasingly rustic – but even the hardiest rural-dweller would find the lack of infrastructure in CABO POLONIO surprising. Originally no more than a few fishermen’s huts, the settlement consists of 95 permanent residents who live in rustic dwellings; the cape with its dunes and forests is protected as a national park and camping is not allowed.
There’s little to see or do other than soak up the beauty of the cape, spot sea lions near the 135-year-old lighthouse, climb it (daily 10am–1pm & 3pm–sunset; UR$25) or hike (you can walk unobstructed both ways along the coast to Valizas 10km to the east, or as far as La Pedrera 43km to the west). Ask around to arrange horseriding, or trips to the Laguna de Castillos with its strange ombú trees. Although in high season it can be inundated with tourists during the day, it still exudes a dreamy, other-worldly isolation, thanks to its lack of roads and electricity, best experienced by staying overnight.
To reach the cape from Valizas it’s possible to hike, ride or pay someone with a rowing boat, but most guests arrive via the visitor centre (095643217, turismorocha.gub.uy) at the entrance to the national park at Km264.5 of Ruta 10. This is where buses from Montevideo (5 daily) or Castillos (at least 3 daily; more during summer) to Cabo Polonio will drop you (the car park costs UR$190/24hr). From here walk the final 7km (over sand), or take a truck-bus (30min drive; daily, hourly 7am–10pm Dec–Feb, less frequent March–Nov; UR$230 round trip).
Cabo Polonio Hostel 099445943, cabopoloniohostel.com. A rustic place with solar-powered electricity and a pedal-powered washing machine. Meals can be pricey in the village, so bring supplies and use the kitchen. Dorms UR$850, doubles UR$2450
Lo de Dany Camino Posadas s/n 099875584. Sweet wooden and tin roof place close to the main square serving up chivitos, pizza, fresh fish and milanesas. Dishes from UR$250. Open all year round.
In the summer, Cabo Polonio’s slightly more grown-up next-door neighbour, VALIZAS (as it’s more commonly known), feels like you’re at one big festival. You’ll either love or hate the hazy, dreadlocked, guitar-strumming vibes, with people practically living on the enormous and ancient sand dunes from Christmas until Carnaval in February, but it’s worth staying both for its beauty and because in January, when prices along the coast soar, you’ll find better value here. Out of season you’ll have the sweeping sun-bleached beaches to yourself.
By bus There are local buses from Castillos (every 2–3hr; 30min) and Montevideo (7 daily; 4–5hr).
Lucky Valizas Tomás Cambre 115 (stroll across the football pitch one block to the right of where the bus will drop you) 44754070, luckyvalizas.blogspot.com. Stay with Lucky in her home-turned-eco-hostel; she knows everyone in town and can arrange horseriding or boats to Cabo Polonio. Prices include breakfast and are halved, or more, off-season. Dorms UR$580, cabins for two UR$1470, camping/pitch UR$600
El Rabuk By the lake. At the only restaurant open year-round for lunch and dinner, this husband-and-wife team serves excellent fresh fish at bargain prices. Grilled fish with salad UR$250.
For a similar mix of remoteness and natural beauty to Cabo Polonio but within reach of a supermarket, electricity and heady nightlife, PUNTA DEL DIABLO is the place to go. Stay in a hostel or beach cabin; relax in a hammock or go out and hit the waves.
During the summer months, the population swells from some 1500 inhabitants to over 20,000 and you’ll find pop-up businesses, hostels and internet facilities appear – they even wheel in an ATM. The rest of the year you’re stuck with a handful of restaurants by the Playa Pescadores, the main beach strewn with fishing boats (a tourist information office springs up here during summer months).
The surfing is excellent all year, and the hostels are the best place to rent gear out of season. There are other beaches either side of Pescadores: northeast the Playa Grande is vast and will lead you to the Parque Santa Teresa 10km away (around a 3hr walk), a small national park with some easy forest treks and an impressive fort. Along the southwest edge of town, the Playa de la Viuda tends to get the biggest waves, although all are good for surfing and the abundance of wide beaches means it never gets unbearably crowded.
Don’t miss the twenty-minute walk up Avenida Central (starts at the northern end of the Playa de los Pescadores) until the houses start to thin out. Keep looking to your right, and soon you’ll come across La Casa Mágica – the Magic House. Built by a local woodworker, it’s in the shape of a head, the steps leading up to the door form the tongue, and it’s made entirely from carved wood and found objects. When someone’s in, you’ll be welcomed inside to admire the workmanship and artwork.
Crossing the border is straightforward if you catch an international bus from Montevideo or any major town (the last of which is San Carlos) on the Ruta 9 heading north: the bus driver will take your passport details at the start of the journey and get all the required stamps for you en route. If you want to stop in Chuy itself (a haven for duty-free and electrical shops and not much else), or are planning to cross the border from any of the beach towns on the northern coast, it becomes more complicated. It is essential that you have all the correct visas in place, and receive all necessary entrance and exit stamps from both the Uruguayan and Brazilian border controls before entering Brazil.
All local buses heading north stop at the Brazilian border, 2km to the north of Chuy, but Uruguayan bus drivers do not routinely stop at the Uruguayan border control, so you’ll have to ask to get off. The tourist office at customs (daily 9am–5pm; 44742003, turismorocha.gub.uy) can assist with information regarding crossings.
By bus In high season, buses stop at the new terminal on Bulevar Santa Teresa, about 3km from the centre. In low season, they all go into town to Av de los Pescadores, the street that leads to the main beach, from where you’ll be able to spot the hostels off to the right when you look back. Offices for the three bus companies which serve the town are located at the terminal; however, you can pay on board, though you might lose your seat to a pre-paid traveller.
Destinations Chuy (hourly; 1hr 30min); Montevideo (10-plus daily; 4hr); Rocha (hourly; 1hr 30min); San Carlos (for Punta del Este; 6 daily; 3hr 30min). Check turismorocha.gub.uy for timetables.
Hostels have sprung up in the last few years; check online before you go for hostels which open seasonally. Locals throughout the town also rent out their cabañas for tourists – look out for the signs saying se alquila, but these are generally only cheaper if you’re in a group. Expect the prices to be more than halved outside of Dec–April.
Botella al Mar marosierras.blogspot.com. Two sweet white cabins just 150m from the Playa Pescadores right in the centre of town; one sleeps two and the other four. They come fully equipped (apart from sheets and towels), and have sea views. Cabin for two per day, minimum stay seven days UR$1720
La Casa de las Boyas C 5 s/n, also access from Av Central 44772074, lacasadelasboyas.com. This well-equipped hostel – the oldest in town – sprawls over several buildings all connected with wooden walkways. Kitchenettes in the dorms furthest away from the house, lots of bathrooms and a swimming pool elevate this from the rest. Dorms UR$700, lofts (sleeps up to six) with kitchenette UR$1000
El Diablo Tranquilo Hostel & Br Hostel on Av Central, Suites opposite on beach 44772647, eldiablotranquilo.com. Bright red hostel with open-plan common areas and a fun terrace kitchen with sea views, which compensate for the rather cramped dorms. There are boutique en-suite rooms and dorms in both locations; the newer building is on the beach with a funky bar for guests. Dorms UR$800, doubles UR$3100
The best place to start for food or drink is the Av de los Pescadores, leading down to Playa de los Pescadores. In high season bars and clubs open down by Playa de la Viuda and at the top of Av Central (there are huge parties held near the old bus station). Everywhere runs on less than reliable opening hours out of season. In summer everything opens late and closes late.
Cero Stress Close to the police station, Av de los Pescadores 094711377. Suitably nautical and also nice, this space is one of the better dining options in Punta del Diablo, plus it boasts a deck with a sea view. Tuck into the catch of the day dressed up in a hearty stew (UR$460), or one of the many beef cuts (UR$300). Friendly staff is a bonus. Open all year round daily for lunch and dinner.
Lo de Olga Av de los Pescadores 099919822. Olga has more than thirty years’ experience serving up the freshest fish in town with an excellent range of seafood, fish, pastas and Uruguayan staples like chivitos, all under UR$400. Service can be haphazard. Ask for the menú túristico, which will be much cheaper than à la carte.
Mirjo Av de los Pescadores 099874478. A classy joint serving fine food and Italian coffee right by the beach. Grilled fish with side dish UR$400.
