super greens soup with lemon-tarragon cream

serves 4 to 6

why this recipe works This deceptively delicious, silky-smooth soup delivers a big dose of healthy greens and boasts a deep, complex flavor brightened with a garnish of lemon and herb cream. First, we built a flavorful foundation of sweet caramelized onions and earthy sautéed mushrooms. We added broth, water, and lots of leafy greens (we liked a mix of chard, kale, arugula, and parsley), and simmered the greens until tender before blending them until smooth. We were happy with the soup’s depth of flavor, but it was watery and too thin. Many recipes we found used potatoes as a thickener, but they lent an overwhelmingly earthy flavor. Instead, we tried using Arborio rice. The rice’s high starch content thickened the soup to a velvety, lush consistency without clouding the vegetables’ bright flavors. For a vibrant finish, we whisked together heavy cream, sour cream, lemon zest, lemon juice, and tarragon and drizzled it over the top.

¼ cup heavy cream

3 tablespoons sour cream

2 tablespoons plus ½ teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

¼ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest plus ½ teaspoon juice

½ teaspoon minced fresh tarragon

Salt and pepper

1 onion, halved through root end and sliced thin

¾ teaspoon light brown sugar

3 ounces white mushrooms, trimmed and sliced thin

2 garlic cloves, minced

Pinch cayenne pepper

3 cups water

3 cups vegetable broth

⅓ cup Arborio rice

12 ounces Swiss chard, stemmed and chopped coarse

9 ounces kale, stemmed and chopped coarse

¼ cup fresh parsley leaves

2 ounces (2 cups) baby arugula

1. Combine cream, sour cream, ½ teaspoon oil, lemon zest and juice, tarragon, and ¼ teaspoon salt in bowl. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

2. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Stir in onion, sugar, and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion releases some moisture, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low and cook, stirring often and scraping up any browned bits, until onion is deeply browned and slightly sticky, about 30 minutes. (If onion is sizzling or scorching, reduce heat. If onion is not browning after 15 to 20 minutes, increase heat.)

3. Stir in mushrooms and cook until they have released their moisture, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cayenne and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in water, broth, and rice, scraping up any browned bits, and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes.

4. Stir in chard, kale, and parsley, 1 handful at a time, until wilted and submerged in liquid. Return to simmer, cover, and cook until greens are tender, about 10 minutes.

5. Off heat, stir in arugula until wilted. Working in batches, process soup in blender until smooth, about 1 minute. Return pureed soup to clean pot and season with salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle individual portions with lemon-tarragon cream and serve.

provençal vegetable soup (soupe au pistou)

serves 6

why this recipe works This is a great soup to make in the summer when farmers’ markets are overflowing with green beans, zucchini, and bunches of fresh basil. It is a classic summer soup with a delicate broth that is intensified by a dollop of pistou, the French equivalent of Italy’s pesto. Leeks, green beans, and zucchini all made the cut for this recipe; we liked their summery flavors, different shapes, and varying shades of green. We added canned white beans (which were far more convenient than dried in this quick-cooking soup) and orecchiette pasta (for its easy-to-spoon shape). To simplify the traditional pistou, we just whirred basil, Parmesan, olive oil, and garlic together in our food processor. If you cannot find haricots verts (thin green beans), substitute regular green beans and cook them for an extra minute or two. You can substitute small shells or ditalini for the orecchiette (the cooking times might vary slightly). We prefer broth prepared from our Vegetable Broth Base, but store-bought vegetable broth can be used. Serve with Garlic Toasts or crusty bread, if desired.

PISTOU

¾ cup fresh basil leaves

1 ounce Parmesan cheese, grated (½ cup)

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 garlic clove, minced

SOUP

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 leek, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced ½ inch thick, and washed thoroughly

1 celery rib, cut into ½-inch pieces

1 carrot, peeled and sliced ¼ inch thick

Salt and pepper

2 garlic cloves, minced

3 cups vegetable broth

3 cups water

½ cup orecchiette or other short pasta

8 ounces haricots verts or green beans, trimmed and cut into ½-inch lengths

1 (15-ounce) can cannellini or navy beans

1 small zucchini, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch pieces

1 large tomato, cored, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch pieces

1. for the pistou Process all ingredients in food processor until smooth, scraping down sides of bowl as needed, about 15 seconds. (Pistou can be refrigerated for up to 4 hours.)

2. for the soup Heat oil in large Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add leek, celery, carrot, and ½ teaspoon salt and cook until vegetables are softened, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in broth and water and bring to simmer.

3. Stir in pasta and simmer until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in haricots verts and simmer until bright green but still crunchy, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in cannellini beans and their liquid, zucchini, and tomato and simmer until pasta and vegetables are tender, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Top individual portions with generous tablespoon pistou and serve.

farmhouse vegetable and barley soup

serves 6 to 8

why this recipe works This simple, satisfying soup features lots of vegetables accented by nutty, chewy grains of barley. We started by simmering leeks, carrots, and celery in a combination of wine and soy sauce until we had a potent aromatic backbone for our soup. Then we added the barley along with broth, dried porcini mushrooms, and herbs. As the barley softened, the mushrooms and herbs infused the broth with flavor. Next, we added the remaining vegetables: chunks of Yukon Gold potatoes, turnip, and some cabbage. Once all the vegetables were tender, we stirred in some frozen peas, lemon juice, and parsley for a pop of bright flavor. We prefer an acidic, unoaked white wine such as Sauvignon Blanc for this recipe. Garnish this soup with crumbled cheddar cheese or Herbed Croutons.

8 sprigs fresh parsley plus 3 tablespoons chopped

4 sprigs fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

2 tablespoons unsalted butter or vegetable oil

1½ pounds leeks, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced ½ inch thick, and washed thoroughly

2 carrots, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces

2 celery ribs, cut into ¼-inch pieces

⅓ cup dry white wine

2 teaspoons soy sauce

Salt and pepper

6 cups water

4 cups chicken broth or vegetable broth

½ cup pearl barley

1 garlic clove, peeled and smashed

⅛ ounce dried porcini mushrooms, finely ground using spice grinder

1½ pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces

8 ounces turnip, peeled and cut into ¾-inch pieces

1½ cups chopped green cabbage

1 cup frozen peas

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1. Using kitchen twine, tie together parsley sprigs, thyme sprigs, and bay leaf. Melt butter in Dutch oven over medium heat. Add leeks, carrots, celery, wine, soy sauce, and 2 teaspoons salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid has evaporated and celery is softened, about 10 minutes.

2. Stir in water, broth, barley, garlic, mushroom powder, and herb bundle. Increase heat to high and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, partially cover, and simmer gently for 25 minutes.

3. Stir in potatoes, turnip, and cabbage and simmer until barley, potatoes, turnip, and cabbage are tender, 18 to 20 minutes. Off heat, discard herb bundle. Stir in peas, lemon juice, and chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.

wild rice and mushroom soup

serves 6 to 8

why this recipe works Earthy, creamy, and bursting with mushroom flavor, this soup belies the simplicity of its humble ingredients. We kept the focus on the rice and mushrooms by choosing supporting players that amplified the nutty, umami-rich flavor profile we were after: tomato paste, soy sauce, dry sherry, and plenty of garlic. For the mushrooms, we chose fresh cremini mushrooms and added dried shiitakes for a dose of potent mushroom flavor. Grinding the shiitakes ensured that their flavor permeated the broth. Simmering the wild rice with baking soda decreased its cooking time and brought out more robust flavor. We used the rice simmering liquid as part of our broth, infusing the entire soup with wild rice flavor. Cornstarch helped thicken the broth, and some cream gave our soup a velvety texture. We finished the soup with chives and lemon zest for brightness. White mushrooms can be substituted for the cremini mushrooms. We used a spice grinder to process the dried shiitake mushrooms, but a blender also works.

4¼ cups water

1 sprig fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

5 garlic cloves, peeled (1 whole, 4 minced)

Salt and pepper

¼ teaspoon baking soda

1 cup wild rice

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound cremini mushrooms, trimmed and sliced ¼ inch thick

1 onion, chopped fine

1 teaspoon tomato paste

⅔ cup dry sherry

¼ ounce dried shiitake mushrooms, finely ground using spice grinder

4 cups chicken or vegetable broth

1 tablespoon soy sauce

¼ cup cornstarch

½ cup heavy cream

¼ cup minced fresh chives

¼ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Bring 4 cups water, thyme sprig, bay leaf, whole garlic clove, ¾ teaspoon salt, and baking soda to boil in medium saucepan over high heat. Add rice and return to boil. Cover saucepan, transfer to oven, and bake until rice is tender, 35 to 50 minutes. Drain rice in fine-mesh strainer set in 4-cup liquid measuring cup, discarding thyme sprig, bay leaf, and garlic. Add enough water to reserved cooking liquid to measure 3 cups.

2. Melt butter in Dutch oven over high heat. Add cremini, onion, tomato paste, minced garlic, ¾ teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are browned and dark fond develops on bottom of pot, about 15 minutes.

3. Stir in sherry, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until nearly evaporated, about 2 minutes. Stir in ground shiitakes, broth, soy sauce, and reserved rice cooking liquid and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until onion and mushrooms are tender, about 20 minutes.

4. Whisk cornstarch and remaining ¼ cup water together in bowl. Stir cornstarch slurry into soup and simmer until thickened, about 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in cooked rice, cream, chives, and lemon zest. Cover and let stand for 20 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve.

country-style potato-leek soup

serves 6 to 8

why this recipe works This is the ultimate potato-leek soup: It’s hearty with just the right proportion of leeks to potatoes. As an added bonus, it’s quick and easy to prepare and you can easily vary it by adding kielbasa or white beans. We found that low-starch red potatoes were the best option for a flavorful country-style potato-leek soup because they held their shape and didn’t become waterlogged during cooking. In addition, we removed the pot from the heat toward the end to allow the potatoes to finish cooking in the hot broth without becoming overcooked or mushy. Sautéing plenty of leeks in butter helped pump up the flavor, and leaving our soup full of chunks of potato and pieces of leek kept up the rustic theme. Leeks can vary in size. If yours have large white and light green sections, use fewer leeks.

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

4–5 pounds leeks, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced 1 inch thick, and washed thoroughly (11 cups)

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

5¼ cups chicken broth

1 bay leaf

1¾ pounds red potatoes, peeled and cut into ¾-inch chunks

Salt and pepper

1. Melt butter in Dutch oven over medium heat. Stir in leeks, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until leeks are tender but not mushy, 15 to 20 minutes (do not brown). Stir in flour and cook for 2 minutes.

2. Increase heat to high and gradually stir in broth. Stir in bay leaf and potatoes, cover, and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, covered, until potatoes are almost tender, 5 to 7 minutes.

3. Remove from heat and let stand until potatoes are tender and flavors meld, 10 to 15 minutes. Discard bay leaf and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve. (Soup can be refrigerated for up to 2 days; add water as needed when reheating to adjust consistency.)

variations

country-style potato-leek soup with kielbasa

Eight ounces of cooked ham, cut into ½-inch dice, can be substituted for the sausage, if desired. Whichever you choose, season the soup with care, since both ham and kielbasa are fully seasoned.

Before removing pot from heat, stir in 8 ounces kielbasa sausage, cut into ½-inch slices.

hearty cabbage soup

serves 6 to 8

why this recipe works The combination of assertive aromatics and fresh herbs gives cabbage and potatoes an unexpected star quality in this satisfying soup. We started our testing with the cabbage. Tasters preferred the stronger flavor of green cabbage over napa or savoy cabbage. For the potatoes, low-starch red potatoes beat out other varieties because they held their shape after a period of simmering. Many cabbage soup recipes also call for a pork product—most often smoky bacon. We swapped out the bacon for hot smoked paprika. This gave the soup more backbone and a hint of smokiness. We also added caraway seeds for their delicate anise flavor, which brought out the sweetness of the cabbage, and we finished the soup with fresh dill. A dollop of sour cream added a rich, tangy counterpoint to the sweetness of the soup. You can substitute smoked paprika and a pinch of cayenne for the hot smoked paprika.

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 onion, chopped fine

Salt and pepper

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon caraway seeds

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or ¼ teaspoon dried

½ teaspoon hot smoked paprika

¼ cup dry white wine

6 cups vegetable broth

1 small head green cabbage (1¼ pounds), cored and cut into ¾-inch pieces

12 ounces red potatoes, unpeeled and cut into ¾-inch pieces

3 carrots, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon minced fresh dill

1 cup sour cream

1. Melt butter in Dutch oven over medium heat. Stir in onion and 1 teaspoon salt and cook until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, caraway, thyme, and paprika and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds.

2. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and simmer until nearly evaporated, about 1 minute. Stir in broth, cabbage, potatoes, carrots, and bay leaf and bring to boil. Cover, reduce to gentle simmer, and cook until vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes.

3. Discard bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and sprinkle with dill. Top individual portions with sour cream and serve.

artichoke soup à la barigoule

serves 4 to 6

why this recipe works Barigoule is a traditional Provençal dish of braised artichokes, mushrooms, and root vegetables. We thought the combination of delicate yet earthy artichokes and meaty mushrooms would translate well into a satisfying soup. To amplify their flavors, we worked to enhance each of the core components. We started by searing artichokes to intensify their subtle flavor. Cooking the mushrooms covered and then sautéing them uncovered allowed their excess moisture to evaporate before browning. Umami-rich anchovy fillets and garlic added depth to the soup while leek contributed further sweetness and body. Gently simmering the parsnips brought out their sweetness. White wine and white wine vinegar brightened up the dish and a little cream brought it all together. A generous amount of tarragon gave freshness to our balanced and hearty soup. To thaw the frozen artichokes quickly, microwave them on high, covered, for 3 to 5 minutes. Frozen artichokes are generally packaged already quartered; if yours are not, cut the artichoke hearts into quarters before using.

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

18 ounces frozen artichoke hearts, thawed and patted dry

12 ounces white mushrooms, trimmed and sliced thin

1 leek, white and light green parts only, halved lengthwise, sliced ¼ inch thick, and washed thoroughly

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 anchovy fillets, rinsed, patted dry, and minced

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or ¼ teaspoon dried

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

¼ cup dry white wine

3 cups chicken broth

3 cups vegetable broth

6 ounces parsnips, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces

2 bay leaves

Salt and pepper

¼ cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar, plus extra for seasoning

1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add artichokes and cook until browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to cutting board, let cool slightly, then chop coarse.

2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in now-empty pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add mushrooms, cover, and cook until they have released their liquid, about 5 minutes. Uncover and cook until mushrooms are dry, about 5 minutes longer.

3. Stir in leek and remaining 1 tablespoon oil and cook until leek is softened and mushrooms are browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in garlic, anchovies, and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook for 1 minute. Stir in wine, scraping up any browned bits, and cook until nearly evaporated, about 1 minute.

4. Gradually whisk in chicken broth and vegetable broth, smoothing out any lumps. Stir in browned artichokes, parsnips, bay leaves, and ½ teaspoon salt and bring to boil. Cover, reduce to gentle simmer, and cook until parsnips are tender, 15 to 20 minutes.

5. Off heat, remove bay leaves. Stir in cream, tarragon, and 1 teaspoon vinegar. Season with salt, pepper, and extra vinegar to taste and serve.

beet and wheat berry soup with dill cream

serves 6

why this recipe works This recipe is a thoroughly modern, fresh, and vegetarian take on traditional hot borscht. To complement the earthy shredded beets, we swapped the usual waxy, starchy potatoes for fiber-loaded wheat berries. Toasting the wheat berries gave a rich, nutty flavor and a pleasant chewy consistency to the soup. To build a flavorful backbone, we sautéed onion, garlic, thyme, and tomato paste before stirring in the broth. Red wine vinegar, red cabbage, and a dash of cayenne helped to round out the flavor of the beets as well. A dollop of dill cream added tang to this satisfying and vitamin-packed soup. You can use the shredding disk of the food processor to grate the beets and carrot and to shred the cabbage. Do not use presteamed or quick-cooking wheat berries here, as they have a much shorter cooking time; be prepared to read the package carefully to determine what kind of wheat berries you are using.

SOUP

⅔ cup wheat berries, rinsed

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 onions, chopped fine

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme or ½ teaspoon dried

2 tablespoons tomato paste

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

8 cups vegetable broth

3 cups water

1 ½ cups shredded red cabbage

1 pound beets, trimmed, peeled, and shredded

1 small carrot, peeled and shredded

1 bay leaf

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

DILL CREAM

½ cup sour cream

¼ cup minced fresh dill

½ teaspoon salt

1. for the soup Toast wheat berries in Dutch oven over medium heat, stirring often, until fragrant and beginning to darken, about 5 minutes; transfer to bowl.

2. Heat oil in now-empty pot over medium heat until shimmering. Stir in onions and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and thyme and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in tomato paste and cayenne and cook until darkened slightly, about 2 minutes.

3. Stir in broth and water, scraping up any browned bits. Stir in toasted wheat berries, cabbage, beets, carrot, bay leaf, and ¾ teaspoon pepper, and bring to boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer until wheat berries are tender but still chewy and vegetables are tender, 45 minutes to 1¼ hours.

4. for the dill cream Meanwhile, combine all ingredients in bowl.

5. Off heat, discard bay leaf and stir in vinegar and 1 teaspoon salt. Season with additional salt and pepper to taste. Top individual portions with dill cream and serve.

vegetable shabu-shabu with sesame sauce

serves 6 to 8

why this recipe works This traditional Japanese soup features chewy udon noodles, silky tofu, and tender vegetables in a simple, savory broth. Shabu-shabu is a hot-pot dish in which beef, vegetables, and tofu are simmered in broth and served with udon noodles and dipping sauces. We wanted a version without the meat (or the hot pot). The traditional dashi broth is made from glutamate-rich kombu seaweed and bonito (tuna) flakes. After a good deal of testing, we found that adding a second variety of seaweed (wakame), fish sauce, rice wine, and sugar replicated the fishy depth of the bonito. Shabu-shabu typically includes carrots, napa cabbage or bok choy, enoki or shiitake mushrooms, tofu, and chrysanthemum leaves. Luckily, the hard-to-find chrysanthemum leaves were not missed when omitted. We preferred bok choy to cabbage and the fuller flavor of shiitake mushrooms. A dollop of homemade sesame sauce was the perfect garnish. We prefer the flavor of red miso here, but white miso can be substituted.

SESAME SAUCE

¼ cup sesame seeds, toasted

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 tablespoon red miso

2 teaspoons lemon juice

2 teaspoons sugar

1 garlic clove, minced

½ teaspoon water

SOUP

8 ounces dried udon noodles

Salt

½ ounce kombu seaweed, rinsed

½ ounce wakame seaweed, rinsed

½ cup mirin

¼ cup fish sauce

1½ teaspoons sugar

3 heads baby bok choy (4 ounces each), sliced ⅛ inch thick

3 carrots, peeled and sliced ⅛ inch thick

14 ounces soft tofu, cut into ½-inch cubes

8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced thin

1. for the sesame sauce Stir all ingredients together in bowl until smooth.

2. for the soup Bring 2 quarts water to boil in large pot. Add udon noodles and 1½ teaspoons salt and cook, stirring often, until tender; drain and set aside.

3. Meanwhile, bring 9 cups water, kombu, and wakame to brief boil in large pot over medium heat. Remove from heat and discard seaweed.

4. Stir in mirin, fish sauce, and sugar and bring to simmer over medium heat. Stir in bok choy and carrots and simmer until crisp-tender, 2 to 4 minutes. Stir in tofu, mushrooms, and cooked noodles and let heat through, about 1 minute. Drizzle individual portions with sesame sauce and serve.

ultimate french onion soup

serves 6

why this recipe works There is no denying the appeal of a great bowl of French onion soup, with its rich broth, caramelized onions, and nutty Gruyère-topped bread. For a rich soup, we caramelized the onions a full 2½ hours in the oven and then deglazed the pot several times with water, before adding a combination of chicken broth, beef broth, and more water. Sweet onions, such as Vidalia or Walla Walla, will make this recipe overly sweet. Use broiler-safe crocks and keep the rim of the bowls 4 to 5 inches from the broiler element to obtain a proper gratinée of melted, bubbly cheese. If using ordinary soup bowls, sprinkle the toasted bread slices with Gruyère and return them to the broiler on the baking sheet until the cheese melts, then float them on top of the soup along with a sprinkle of parsley.

1. for the soup Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Generously spray inside of Dutch oven with vegetable oil spray. Add onions, butter, and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover and bake until onions wilt slightly and look moist, about 1 hour.

2. Stir onions thoroughly, scraping bottom and sides of pot. Partially cover pot and continue to cook in oven until onions are very soft and golden brown, 1½ to 1¾ hours longer, stirring onions thoroughly after 1 hour.

3. Carefully remove pot from oven and place over medium-high heat. Using oven mitts to handle pot, continue to cook onions, stirring and scraping pot often, until liquid evaporates, onions brown, and bottom of pot is coated with dark crust, 20 to 25 minutes. (If onions begin to brown too quickly, reduce heat to medium. Also, be sure to scrape any browned bits that collect on spoon back into onions.)

4. Stir in ¼ cup water, thoroughly scraping up browned crust. Continue to cook until water evaporates and pot bottom has formed another dark crust, 6 to 8 minutes. Repeat deglazing 2 or 3 more times, until onions are very dark brown.

5. Stir in sherry and cook until evaporated, about 5 minutes. Stir in chicken broth, beef broth, 2 cups more water, thyme bundle, bay leaf, and ½ teaspoon salt, scraping up any remaining browned bits. Bring to simmer, cover, and cook for 30 minutes. Discard thyme bundle and bay leaf and season with salt and pepper to taste. (Soup can be refrigerated for up to 3 days; return to simmer before proceeding.)

6. for the cheese croutons Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Lay baguette slices on rimmed baking sheet and bake until dry, crisp, and lightly golden, about 10 minutes, flipping slices over halfway through baking.

7. Position oven rack 8 inches from broiler element and heat broiler. Set individual broiler-safe crocks on baking sheet and fill each with about 1½ cups soup. Top each bowl with 1 or 2 baguette slices (do not overlap slices) and sprinkle evenly with Gruyère. Broil until cheese is melted and bubbly around edges, 3 to 5 minutes. Let cool for 5 minutes before serving.

to make ahead

Pot of cooked onions in step 2 can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated for up to 3 days before continuing with step 3.

garlic-potato soup

serves 6

why this recipe works The base of this deliciously simple soup is a hearty emulsion of leek, garlic, and potatoes blended with a little heavy cream. We used both peeled russet potatoes for the way they broke down and thickened the broth and unpeeled red potatoes for ultimate potato flavor. To incorporate great garlic flavor, we sautéed minced cloves in the base, simmered whole heads in the broth, and added a garnish of toasted garlic chips. A garnish is essential to add crunch and flavor to the soup. We liked Garlic Chips, but crisp bacon bits or Garlic Croutons are good options, too. A potato masher can be used instead of an immersion blender to mash some of the potatoes right in the pot, though the consistency will not be as creamy. If leeks are not available, substitute an equal amount of yellow onion. We prefer the soup made with chicken broth, but vegetable broth can be substituted.

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 medium leek, white and light green parts halved lengthwise, chopped small, and washed thoroughly

3 garlic cloves, minced, plus 2 whole heads garlic, rinsed, outer papery skins removed and top third of heads cut off and discarded

6–7 cups chicken broth

2 bay leaves

Salt and pepper

1½ pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes

1 pound red potatoes, unpeeled, cut into ½-inch cubes

½ cup heavy cream

1½ teaspoons minced fresh thyme

¼ cup minced fresh chives

Garlic Chips (recipe follows)

1. Melt butter in Dutch oven over medium heat. Add leeks and cook until softened, 5 to 8 minutes. Stir in minced garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add garlic heads, 6 cups broth, bay leaves, and ¾ teaspoon salt; partially cover pot and bring to simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce heat and simmer until garlic is very tender when pierced with tip of knife, 30 to 40 minutes. Add potatoes and continue to simmer, partially covered, until potatoes are tender, 15 to 20 minutes.

2. Discard bay leaves. Remove garlic heads and squeeze cooked garlic from skins into bowl. Mash garlic to smooth paste with fork.

3. Stir cream, thyme, and half of mashed garlic into soup; heat soup until hot, about 2 minutes. Taste soup; add remaining garlic paste if desired. Transfer 1½ cups potatoes and 1 cup broth to blender and process until smooth. (Process more potatoes for thicker consistency.) Return puree to pot and adjust consistency as desired with remaining broth. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle individual portions with chives and garlic chips and serve.

to make ahead

After adding potatoes in step 1, return soup to brief simmer then remove pot from heat and let soup rest for 10 minutes. Portion soup into 2 containers and freeze for up to 1 month. Return frozen soup to pot and add 1 cup additional chicken broth; cover and reheat over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until soup is hot and potatoes are tender. Continue with step 2 of recipe as directed.

garlic chips

makes about ¼ cup

3 tablespoons olive oil

6 garlic cloves, sliced thin lengthwise

Salt

Heat oil and garlic in 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Cook, turning garlic frequently, until light golden brown, about 3 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer garlic to plate lined with paper towels; discard oil. Season with salt to taste.

classic gazpacho

serves 8 to 10

why this recipe works Hand-cut vegetables marinated in seasoned vinegar are the key to this stellar gazpacho. Chopping the vegetables by hand ensured they retained their color and firm texture. Letting them sit briefly in a sherry vinegar marinade guaranteed well-seasoned vegetables, while a combination of tomato juice and ice cubes (which helped chill the soup) provided the right amount of liquid. Chilling our soup for a minimum of 4 hours was critical to allow the flavors to develop and meld. Use a Vidalia, Maui, or Walla Walla onion here. This recipe makes a large quantity because the leftovers are so good, but it can be halved if you prefer. Traditionally, diners garnish their gazpacho with more of the same diced vegetables that are in the soup, so cut some extra vegetables when you prepare those called for in the recipe. Serve with Garlic Croutons, chopped pitted black olives, chopped hard-cooked eggs, and finely diced avocados. For a finishing touch, serve in chilled bowls.

1½ pounds tomatoes, cored and cut into ¼-inch dice

2 red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch dice

2 small cucumbers (1 cucumber peeled, both sliced lengthwise, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch dice)

½ small sweet onion or 2 large shallots, minced

⅓ cup sherry vinegar

2 garlic cloves, minced

Salt and pepper

5 cups tomato juice

8 ice cubes

1 teaspoon hot sauce (optional)

Extra-virgin olive oil

1. Combine tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumbers, onion, vinegar, garlic, and 2 teaspoons salt in large (at least 4-quart) bowl and season with pepper to taste. Let stand until vegetables just begin to release their juices, about 5 minutes. Stir in tomato juice, ice cubes, and hot sauce, if using. Cover and refrigerate to blend flavors, at least 4 hours or up to 2 days.

2. Discard any unmelted ice cubes and season soup with salt and pepper to taste. Serve cold, drizzling individual portions with oil.

variation

spicy gazpacho with chipotle chile and lime

We recommend garnishing bowls of this spicy soup with finely diced avocado. If desired, reduce the amount of chipotles to make the soup less spicy.

Omit hot sauce. Add 2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro, 1 tablespoon minced canned chipotle chile in adobo sauce, and 2 teaspoons grated lime zest plus 6 tablespoons juice (3 limes) with tomato juice and ice cubes.