This ombre mat is an easy make and the perfect size to brighten up your kitchen or bathroom. Use four shades of any colour to suit your own space.
6mm Tunisian hook with 60cm (231⁄2in) cable
4.5mm crochet hook
Aran weight (10-ply) cotton yarn in the following colours:
A Dark Blue – 200g
B Turquoise – 200g
C Light Blue – 200g
D Very Light Blue – 50g
Non-slip mat to fit
Tunisian Full Stitch (Tfs): see Basic stitches
Slip stitch (sl st): see Techniques
Single crochet (sc): see Techniques
Sc blo (regular single crochet – back loop only): insert hook under the back loop only of the stitch, yo and complete sc as normal
60 x 90cm (231⁄2 x 351⁄2in)
Foundation Row: Using Colour A, ch 80. Pick up a loop from back bump in 2nd ch from hook, and in each ch to end, leaving all loops on hook. Return.
Row 2: Tfs into sp between 2nd and 3rd sts and into each sp between sts to last st, work end st. Return.
Row 3: Tfs into sp between 1st and 2nd sts and into each sp between sts up to last sp, sk this sp, work end st. Return.
Rows 2 and 3 form Mesh stitch pattern.
Rows 4-15: Continuing in Colour A, repeat Rows 2 and 3.
Row 16: Continuing in Colour A, work as for Row 2, changing to Colour B on last 2 lps of return. Don’t cut Colour A.
Row 17: Using Colour B work as for Row 3, changing back to Colour A on last 2 lps of return.
Rows 18-29: Continue working in pattern, alternating Colours A and B every row. Fasten off Colour A after Row 28.
Rows 30-43: Continuing in Colour B, work in pattern.
Row 44: Continuing in Colour B, work as for Row 2, changing to Colour C on last 2 lps of return. Don’t cut Colour B.
Row 45: Using Colour C work as for Row 3, changing back to Colour B on last 2 lps of return.
Rows 46-57: Continue working in pattern, alternating Colours B and C every row. Fasten off Colour B after Row 56.
Rows 58-71: Continuing in Colour C, work in pattern.
Row 72: Continuing in Colour C, work as for Row 2, changing to Colour D on last 2 lps of return. Don’t cut Colour C.
Row 73: Using Colour D work as for Row 3, changing back to Colour C on last 2 lps of return.
Rows 74-84: Continue working in pattern, alternating Colours C and D every row. Fasten off Colour D after Row 83.
Rows 85-98: Continuing in Colour C, work in pattern.
Row 99: Continuing in Colour C, work as for Row 2, changing to Colour B on last 2 lps of return. Don’t cut Colour C.
Row 100: Using Colour B work as for Row 3, changing back to Colour C on last 2 lps of return.
Rows 101-112: Continue working in pattern, alternating Colours B and C every row. Fasten off Colour C after Row 111.
Rows 113-126: Continuing in Colour B, work in pattern.
Row 127: Continuing in Colour B, work as for Row 2, changing to Colour A on last 2 lps of return. Don’t cut Colour B.
Row 128: Using Colour A work as for Row 3, changing back to Colour B on last 2 lps of return.
Rows 129-140: Continue working in pattern, alternating Colours A and B every row. Fasten off Colour B after Row 139.
Rows 141-155: Continuing in Colour B, work in pattern.
Bind off.
RUG CHART
THE BORDER IS WORKED IN REGULAR CROCHET.
Switch to 4.5mm crochet hook
Round 1: Join Colour A in any corner and sl st loosely into each st around rug to end. Join with a sl st and fasten off. Don’t turn.
Round 2: All stitches in this round are worked under the top loop only of previous round’s sl st. Join Colour C in any corner, ch 1 (not counted as st), *3 sc into same st (corner made), sc into each st up to next corner. Repeat from * to end. Join with a sl st and fasten off. Don’t turn.
Round 3: Join Colour A into the middle st of any corner, ch 1 (not counted as st) *3 sc blo into same st (corner made), sc blo into each st up to next corner. Repeat from * to end. Join with a sl st and fasten off.
Weave ends in.
If your rug ends are curling, place a damp cloth over the rug and press with an iron. Leave to cool.
If your rug will be used on a wooden or tiled floor, be sure to use a non-slip mat under the rug as it will be slippery. Some of these mats come with perforated holes which you can use to stitch to your rug in each corner to secure.