Transportation
Transportation
Getting There & Away
Entering the Country
Whether it's your first or 50th time, descending low into José Martí International Airport, over rust-red tobacco fields, is an exciting and unforgettable experience. Fortunately, entry procedures are relatively straightforward, and with approximately three million visitors a year, immigration officials are used to dealing with foreign arrivals.
Outside Cuba, the capital city is called Havana, and this is how travel agents, airlines and other professionals will refer to it. Within Cuba, it's almost always called La Habana. For the sake of consistency, we use the former spelling.
Flights, tours and rail tickets can be booked online at lonelyplanet.com/bookings.
DOCUMENTS REQUIRED ON ENTRY
Passport valid for at least one month beyond your departure date
Cuba 'tourist card' filled out correctly
Proof of travel medical insurance (random checks at airport)
Evidence of sufficient funds for the duration of your stay
Return air ticket
Climate Change and Travel
Every form of transport that relies on carbon-based fuel generates CO2, the main cause of human-induced climate change. Modern travel is dependent on aeroplanes, which might use less fuel per per person than most cars but travel much greater distances. The altitude at which aircraft emit gases (including CO2) and particles also contributes to their climate change impact. Many websites offer ‘carbon calculators’ that allow people to estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey and, for those who wish to do so, to offset the impact of the greenhouse gases emitted with contributions to portfolios of climate-friendly initiatives throughout the world. Lonely Planet offsets the carbon footprint of all staff and author travel.
Air
Airports
Cuba has 10 international airports. The largest by far is José Martí in Havana. The only other sizeable airport is Juan Gualberto Gómez in Varadero.
'Special Authority Charter flights' for legally sanctioned Cuban-Americans currently fly into four Cuban airports from Miami, Tampa, Atlanta, Fort Lauderdale and New York.
Airlines
In Havana most airline offices are situated in one of two clusters: the Airline Building ( GOOGLE MAP ; Calle 23 No 64) in Vedado, or in the Miramar Trade Center in Playa.
Cubana (www.cubana.cu), the national carrier, operates regular flights to Bogátá, Buenos Aires, Mexico City, Cancún, Caracas, Madrid, Paris, Toronto, Montreal, São Paulo, San José (Costa Rica) and Santo Domingo (Dominican Republic). Its modern fleet flies major routes and its airfares are usually among the cheapest. However, overbooking and delays are nagging problems. The airline has a zero-tolerance attitude toward overweight luggage, charging stiffly for every kilogram above the 20kg baggage allowance. In terms of safety, Cubana had back-to-back crashes in December 1999, with 39 fatalities, but it hasn't had any major incidents since. You might want to check the latest at www.airsafe.com.
Africa
Direct flights from Africa originate in Luanda, Angola. From all other African countries you'll need to connect in London, Paris, Madrid, Amsterdam or Rome.
Asia & Australia
There are no direct flights to Cuba from Australia. Travelers can connect through Europe, Canada, the US or Mexico.
Air ChinaAIRLINE
Thrice weekly flights between Beijing and Havana starting in September 2015.
Canada
Flights from Canada serve 10 Cuban airports from 22 Canadian cities. Toronto and Montreal are the main hubs. Other cities are served by direct charter flights. A Nash Travel (www.anashtravel.com), based in Toronto, can sort out any flight/holiday queries.
Air CanadaAIRLINE
Flies to Havana, Cayo Coco, Cayo Largo del Sur, Holguín, Santa Clara and Varadero.
Air TransatAIRLINE
Flies to Camagüey, Cayo Coco, Holguín, Santa Clara and Varadero.
CanJetAIRLINE
Flies to Camagüey, Cayo Coco, Cayo Largo del Sur, Holguín, Santa Clara, Santiago de Cuba, Varadero.
SunwingAIRLINE
Flies to Cayo Coco, Camagüey, Cienfuegos, Manzanillo, Holguín, Santiago de Cuba, Varadero and Havana.
WestjetAIRLINE
Calgary-based low-cost carrier serving destinations throughout Canada, flying to Varadero, Cayo Coco, Santa Clara and Holguín.
Caribbean
Cubana and subsidiary Aerocaribbean (www.fly-aerocaribbean.com) are the main airlines. The other three are listed below.
Air Caraibes AirlinesAIRLINE
Direct flights from Pointe-a-Pitre on the French island of Guadeloupe to Havana.
Europe & UK
Regular flights to Cuba depart from Belgium, France, Germany, the Netherlands, Italy, Russia, Spain, Switzerland and the UK.
Blue PanoramaAIRLINE
Milan and Rome to Cayo Largo del Sur, Santa Clara, Santiago, Varadero and Havana.
NeosAIRLINE
Charter linking Milan with Cayo Largo del Sur, Holguín, Havana and Varadero.
Thomas CookAIRLINE
Charter flights from London and Manchester to Holguín, Cayo Coco, Santa Clara and Varadero.
Mexico
Mexico City and Cancún are good places to connect with a wide number of US cities.
South & Central America
Copa AirlinesAIRLINE
Regular flights linking Panama City with Havana and Santa Clara.
United States
Following moves by the Obama administration to ease travel restrictions to Cuba in early 2015, it is expected that scheduled flights will start running from the US. At the time of print, there were still only a number of regular Special Authority Charter Flights to Cuba from airports in Florida, New York and Atlanta. All flights to Havana's José Martí International Airport land at Terminal 2, rather than at Terminal 3, the main international portal.
The US Department of the Treasury issues a regularly updated list of 'Authorized Travel Service Providers.' Top companies include Cuba Travel Services, ABC Charters (www.abc-charters.com) and Marazul (www.marazulcharters.com). You will be required to furnish the service provider with your license details along with a signed travel affidavit when booking tickets.
Envoy AirAIRLINE
Subsidiary of American Airlines. Flies from Miami to Camagüey and Santiago de Cuba.
Miami Air InternationalAIRLINE
Charter links between Miami and Havana and Cienfuegos.
Tickets
Since Americans can't buy tickets to Cuba and can't use US-based travel agents, a host of businesses in Mexico, Canada and the Caribbean specialize in air-only deals. They sometimes won't sell you the first leg of your trip to the 'gateway' country for fear of embargo-related repercussions. When booking online, or if an agency requires financial acrobatics to steer clear of US embargo laws (which sometimes happens), be sure to confirm details, take contact names and clarify the procedure. You will need a Cuban tourist card and these agencies should arrange that. Except during peak holiday seasons, you can usually just arrive in Mexico, Bahamas or whatever gateway country and buy your round-trip ticket to Cuba there.
DEPARTURE TAX
Everyone must pay a CUC$25 departure tax at the airport. It's payable in cash only.
Sea
Cruises
Thanks to the US embargo, which prohibits vessels calling at Cuban ports from visiting the US for six months, few cruise ships include Cuba on their itineraries. Canadian company Cuba Cruise (www.yourcubacruise.com) runs an interesting circumnavigation of Cuba calling in at Havana, Holguín, Santiago, Montego Bay (Jamaica), Cienfuegos and La Isla de la Juventud. Trips run weekly December to March. Prices start at approximately US$780. Another option is with British-based Thomson (www.thomson.co.uk) whose seven-night Cuban Fusion trip runs out of Montego Bay, Jamaica, and costs around £700.
Private Yacht
If you have your own private yacht or cruiser, Cuba has seven international entry ports equipped with customs facilities:
Marina Hemingway (Havana)
Marina Dásena (Varadero)
Marina Cienfuegos
Marina Cayo Guillermo
Marina Santiago de Cuba
Puerto de Vita (near Guardalavaca in Holguín province)
Cayo Largo del Sur
Cabo San Antonio (far western tip of Pinar del Río province)
Boat owners should communicate with the Cuban coast guard on VHF 16 and 68 or the tourist network 19A. There are no scheduled ferry services to Cuba.
Tours
Cuba is popular on the organized-tour circuit, especially in the realm of soft adventure. There are also specialist tours focusing on culture, the environment, adventure, cycling, bird-watching, architecture, hiking, you name it.
Cuban AdventuresADVENTURE TOUR
Australian-based company specializing in Cuba travel, running small tours with mainly local guides.
ExodusADVENTURE TOUR
British-based adventure-travel company offering over half a dozen regular Cuba trips, including family travel and a two-week cycling excursion.
ExploreADVENTURE TOUR
Eleven different trips including a hiking-focused 'revolutionary trails' excursion that ascends Pico Turquino.
TOURS FROM THE US
Since January 2011, Americans have been able to travel legally to Cuba on government-sanctioned people-to-people trips (cultural trips with licensed providers). The people-to-people program reflects efforts by the US government to engage US citizens in ‘purposeful travel’ to Cuba by bringing them into contact with ordinary Cubans in the hope of bolstering trust and mutual understanding between the two countries. On these trips, authorized agents handle the license paperwork, leaving participants with fewer legal worries and more downtime to enjoy organized excursions in a similar way to other vacationers. The US Treasury department (www.treasury.gov/resource-center/sanctions/Programs/pages/cuba.aspx) has issued licenses to approximately 140 registered people-to-people travel companies since 2011, including travel pioneers Insight Cuba, who first ran excursions to the country during the Clinton era, along with Moto Discovery (www.motodiscovery.com), Friendly Planet (www.friendlyplanet.com), Grand Circle Foundation (www.grandcirclefoundation.org) and Geographic Expeditions (www.geoex.com).
Marazul Charters IncTOUR
Has been facilitating travel to Cuba for over 30 years and can help place you on legal sponsored trips. The company can also book tickets on their own charter flights direct from Miami to Havana or Camagüey.
Cuba Travel ServicesFLIGHTS
Can arrange and book flights between the US and Cuba.
Insight CubaTOUR
A well-established registered people-to-people operator. Tours include a one-week jazz-themed excursion and a trip to run the Havana marathon in November.
Getting Around
Air
Cubana de Aviación (www.cubana.cu) and its regional carrier Aerocaribbean have flights between Havana and 11 regional airports. There are no internal connections between the airports except via Havana.
One-way flights are half the price of round-trip flights and weight restrictions are strict (especially on Aerocaribbean's smaller planes). You can purchase tickets at most hotel tour desks and travel agencies for the same price as at the airline offices, which are often chaotic.
Aerogaviota ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.aerogaviota.com; Av 47 No 2814, btwn Calles 28 & 34, Playa, Havana) runs more expensive charter flights to La Coloma and Cayo Levisa (Pinar del Río province), Nueva Gerona, Cayo Largo del Sur, Varadero, Cayo Las Brujas, Cayo Coco, Playa Santa Lucía and Santiago de Cuba.
Bicycle
Cuba is a cyclist's paradise, with bike lanes, bike workshops and drivers accustomed to sharing the road countrywide. Spare parts are difficult to find – you should bring important spares with you. Still, Cubans are grand masters at improvised repair and, though specific parts may not be available, something can surely be jury-rigged. Poncheros (puncture repair stalls) fix flat tires and provide air; every small town has one.
Helmets are unheard of in Cuba except at upscale resorts, so you should bring your own. A lock is imperative, as bicycle theft is rampant. Parqueos are bicycle parking lots located wherever crowds congregate (eg markets, bus terminals, downtown etc); they cost one peso.
Throughout the country, the 1m-wide strip of road to the extreme right is reserved for bicycles, even on highways. It's illegal to ride on sidewalks and against traffic on one-way streets and you'll be ticketed if caught. Road lighting is deplorable, so avoid riding after dark (over one-third of vehicle accidents in Cuba involve bicycles); carry lights with you just in case.
Trains with coches de equipaje or bagones (baggage carriages) should take bikes for around CUC$10 per trip. These compartments are guarded, but take your panniers with you and check over the bike when you arrive at your destination. Víazul buses also take bikes.
Purchase
Limited selection and high prices make buying a bike in Cuba through official channels unattractive. Better to ask around and strike a deal with an individual to buy their chivo (Cuban slang for bike) and trade it or resell it when you leave. With some earnest bargaining, you can get one for around CUC$30 – although the more you pay, the less your bones are likely to shake. Despite the obvious cost savings, bringing your own bike is still the best bet by far.
Rental
Official bike rental places are scant in Cuba, though, with the private economy taking off so rapidly, this could change. You can usually procure something roadworthy for between CUC$3 per hour or CUC$15 per day. Bikes are usually included as a perk in all-inclusive resort packages, but beware of bad brakes and zero gears.
Bus
Bus travel is a dependable way of getting around Cuba, at least in the more popular areas. Víazul (www.viazul.com) is the main long-distance bus company available to non-Cubans, with fairly punctual, air-conditioned coaches going to destinations of interest to travelers. Víazul charges for tickets in convertibles, and you can be confident you'll get where you're going on these buses – usually on time. Buses schedule regular stops for lunch/dinner and always carry two drivers. They have daily departures, but are becoming increasingly busy. Reserve ahead on the more popular routes.
Conectando run by Cubanacán is a newer option set up to relieve some of Víazul's overcrowding. The pros are that they run between city center hotels and can be booked head of time at Infotur and Cubanacán offices. The cons are that the schedules aren't as reliable or extensive as Víazul. Check ahead that your bus is running.
Many of the popular tourist areas now have 'bus tours,' hop-on/hop-off buses that link all the main sights in a given area and charge CUC$5 for an all-day ticket. The services are run by government transport agency Transtur (
%7-831-7333). Havana and Varadero both have open-topped double-decker buses. Smaller minibuses are used in Viñales, Trinidad, Cayo Coco, Guardalavaca, Cayo Santa María and Baracoa (seasonal).
Cubans travel over shorter distances in provincial buses. These buses sell tickets in moneda nacional and are a lot less comfortable and reliable than Víazul. They leave from the provincial bus stations in each province. Schedules and prices are usually chalked up on a board inside the terminal.
Reservations
Reservations with Víazul are advisable during peak travel periods (June to August, Christmas and Easter) and on popular routes (Havana–Trinidad, Trinidad–Santa Clara, and Santiago de Cuba–Baracoa). You can usually prebook a day or two beforehand.
The Víazul bus out of Baracoa is almost always booked, so reserve a seat on this service when you arrive. It is now possible to make reservations online at www.viazul.com. However, like all Cuban websites it is prone to 'crashing.'
Car
Renting a car in Cuba is easy, but once you've factored in gas, insurance, hire fees etc, it isn't cheap. Prices vary with car size, season and length of rental. Bank on paying an average of CUC$70 per day for a medium-sized car. It's actually cheaper to hire a taxi for distances of under 150km (at the time of writing taxis were charging CUC$0.50 per kilometer for intercity routes).
RENT A CAR & DRIVER
Sure, there’s not a lot of traffic on the roads, but driving in Cuba isn’t as easy as many people think, especially when you factor in teetering bicyclists, baseball-chasing children, galloping horses, pedestrians with limited or no peripheral vision, and – worst of all – a serious lack of signposts. To avoid hassle, you can hire both a comfortable, modern car and a driver with a growing number of companies, most notably Car Rental Cuba (
GOOGLE MAP
; %54-47-28-22; www.carrental-cuba.com; Maceo No 360-1, btwn Serafin García & EP Morales) whose drivers are skilled, punctual, bilingual and friendly. The company has a head office in Santa Clara, but operates all over the country. You’ll pay CUC$60 a day (CUC$55 October to April) plus CUC$0.25 per kilometer, only marginally more than many hire cars once you've factored in petrol and insurance, plus the driver and car will be at your disposal 24/7.
Driver's License
Your home license is sufficient to rent and drive a car in Cuba.
Gas
Gas sold in convertibles (as opposed to peso gas) is widely available in stations all over the country (the north coast west of Havana being the notable exception). Gas stations are often open 24 hours and may have a small parts store on-site. Gas is sold by the liter and comes in regular (CUC$0.90 per liter) and especial (CUC$1.10 per liter) varieties. Rental cars are advised to use especial. All gas stations have efficient pump attendants, usually in the form of trabajadores sociales (students in the process of studying for a degree).
Spare Parts
While you cannot count on spare parts per se to be available, Cubans have decades of experience keeping old wrecks on the road without factory parts and you'll see them do amazing things with cardboard, string, rubber and clothes hangers to keep a car mobile.
If you need air in your tires or you have a puncture, use a gas station or visit the local ponchero. They often don't have measures, so make sure they don't overinflate them.
Insurance
Rental cars come with a recommended CUC$15 to CUC$30 per day insurance, which covers everything but theft of the radio (which you'll need to put in the trunk of the car at night). You can choose to decline the insurance, but then the refundable deposit you must leave upon renting the car soars from CUC$250 to CUC$500. If you do have an accident, you must get a copy of the denuncia (police report) to be eligible for the insurance coverage, a process which can take all day. If the police determine that you are the party responsible for the accident, say adiós to your deposit.
Rental
Renting a car in Cuba is straightforward. You'll need your passport, driver's license and a refundable deposit of between CUC$250 and CUC$800 (cash or credit card). You can rent a car in one city and drop it off in another for a reasonable fee, which is handy. If you're on a tight budget, ask about diesel cars – some agencies stock a few and you'll save bundles in gas money considering a liter of non-diesel is CUC$0.90 while a liter of petróleo (diesel) is CUC$0.65. Note that there are very few rental cars with automatic transmission.
If you want to rent a car for three days or fewer, it will come with limited kilometers, while contracts for three days or more come with unlimited kilometers. In Cuba, you pay for the first tank of gas when you rent the car (CUC$1.10 per liter) and return it empty (a suicidal policy that sees many tight-fisted tourists running out of gas a kilometer or so from the drop-off point). Just to make it worse, you will not be refunded for any gas left in the tank. Petty theft of mirrors, antennas, taillights etc is common, so it's worth it to pay someone a convertible or two to watch your car for the night. If you lose your rental contract or keys you'll pay a CUC$50 penalty. Drivers under 25 pay a CUC$5 fee, while additional drivers on the same contract pay a CUC$3 per day surcharge.
Check over the car carefully with the rental agent before driving into the sunset, as you'll be responsible for any damage or missing parts. Make sure there is a spare tire of the correct size, a jack and a lug wrench. Check that there are seatbelts and that all the doors lock properly.
We have received many letters about poor or nonexistent customer service, bogus spare tires, forgotten reservations and other car-rental problems. Reservations are only accepted 15 days in advance and are still not guaranteed. While agents are usually accommodating, you might end up paying more than you planned or have to wait for hours until someone returns a car. The more Spanish you speak and the friendlier you are, the more likely problems will be resolved to everyone's satisfaction (tips to the agent might help). As with most Cuban travel, always have a Plan B.
Road Conditions
Driving here isn't just a different ballpark, it's a different sport. The first problem is that there are no signs – almost anywhere. Major junctions and turnoffs to important resorts or cities are often not indicated at all. Not only is this distracting, it's also incredibly time-consuming. The lack of signage also extends to highway instructions. Often a one-way street is not clearly indicated or a speed limit not highlighted, which can cause problems with the police (who won't understand your inability to telepathically absorb the road rules), and road markings are nonexistent everywhere.
The Autopista, Vía Blanca and Carretera Central are generally in a good state, but be prepared for roads suddenly deteriorating into chunks of asphalt and unexpected railroad crossings everywhere else (especially in the Oriente). Rail crossings are particularly problematic, as there are hundreds of them and there are never any safety gates. Beware: however overgrown the rails may look, you can pretty much assume that the line is still in use. Cuban trains, rather like its cars, defy all normal logic when it comes to mechanics.
While motorized traffic is refreshingly light, bicycles, pedestrians, oxcarts, horse carriages and livestock are a different matter. Many old cars and trucks lack rearview mirrors and traffic-unaware children run out of all kinds of nooks and crannies. Stay alert, drive with caution and use your horn when passing or on blind curves.
Driving at night is not recommended due to variable roads, drunk drivers, crossing cows and poor lighting. Drunk-driving remains a troublesome problem despite a government educational campaign. Late night in Havana is particularly dangerous, as it seems there's a passing lane, cruising lane and drunk lane.
Traffic lights are often busted or hard to pick out and right-of-way rules thrown to the wind. Take extra care.
Road Rules
Cubans drive how they want, where they want. It seems chaotic at first, but it has its rhythm. Seatbelts are supposedly required and maximum speed limits are technically 50km/h in the city, 90km/h on highways and 100km/h on the Autopista, but some cars can't even go that fast and those that can go faster still.
With so few cars on the road, it's hard not to put the pedal to the floor and just fly. Unexpected potholes are a hazard, however, and watch out for police. There are some clever speed traps, particularly along the Autopista. Speeding tickets start at CUC$30 and are noted on your car contract; the fine is deducted from your deposit when you return the car. When pulled over by the police, you're expected to get out of the car and walk over to them with your paperwork. An oncoming car flashing its lights means a hazard up ahead (and usually the police).
The Cuban transport crisis means there are a lot of people waiting for rides by the side of the road. Giving a botella (a lift) to local hitchhikers has advantages aside from altruism. With a Cuban passenger you'll never get lost, you'll learn about secret spots, and you'll meet some great people. There are always risks associated with picking up hitchhikers; giving lifts to older people or families may reduce the risk factor. In the provinces, people waiting for rides are systematically queued by the amarillos (official state-paid traffic supervisors; so named for their mustard yellow uniforms), and they'll hustle the most needy folks into your car, usually an elderly couple or a pregnant woman.
Ferry
The most important ferry services for travelers are the catamaran from Surgidero de Batabanó to Nueva Gerona, Isla de la Juventud (%7-878-1841), and the passenger ferry from Havana to Regla and Casablanca (%7-867-3726). These ferries are generally safe, though in 1997 two hydrofoils crashed en route to Isla de la Juventud. In both 1994 and 2003, the Regla/Casablanca ferry was hijacked by Cubans trying to make their way to Florida. The 2003 incident involved tourists, so you can expect tight security.
Hitchhiking
The transport crisis, culture of solidarity and low crime levels make Cuba a popular hitchhiking destination. Here, hitchhiking is more like ride-sharing, and it's legally enforced. Traffic lights, railroad crossings and country crossroads are regular stops for people seeking rides. In the provinces and on the outskirts of Havana, the amarillos organize and prioritize ride seekers, and you're welcome to jump in line. Rides cost five to 20 pesos depending on distance. Travelers hitching rides will want a good map and some Spanish skills. Expect to wait two or three hours for rides in some cases. Hitchhiking is never entirely safe in any country in the world, and we don't recommend it. Travelers who decide to hitchhike should understand that they are taking a small but potentially serious risk. People who do choose to hitchhike will be safer if they travel in pairs and let someone know where they are planning to go.
Local Transportation
Bici-Taxi
Bici-taxis are big pedal-powered tricycles with a double seat behind the driver and are common in Havana, Camagüey, Holguín and a few other cities. In Havana they'll insist on a CUC$1 minimum fare (Cubans pay five or 10 pesos). Some bici-taxistas ask ridiculous amounts. The fare should be clearly understood before you hop aboard. By law, bici-taxis aren't allowed to take tourists (who are expected to use regular taxis), and they're taking a risk by carrying foreigners. Bici-taxi rules are more lax in the provinces and you should be able to get one for five pesos.
Boat
Some towns, such as Havana, Cienfuegos, Gibara and Santiago de Cuba, have local ferry services that charge in moneda nacional.
Bus
Very crowded, very steamy, very challenging, very Cuban – guaguas (local buses) are useful in bigger cities. Buses work fixed routes, stopping at paradas (bus stops) that always have a line, even if it doesn't look like it. You have to shout out ¿el último? to find out who was the last in line when you showed up as Cuban queues aren't lines in the normal sense of the word. Instead, people just hang around in a disorganized fashion in the vicinity of the bus stop.
Buses cost a flat MN$0.40 or five centavos if you're using CUC$. Havana and Santiago de Cuba have recently been kitted out with brand-new fleets of Chinese-made metro buses. You must always walk as far back in the bus as you can and exit through the rear. Make room to pass by saying permiso, always wear your pack in front and watch your wallet.
Colectivo & Taxi
Colectivos are taxis running on fixed, long-distance routes, leaving when full. They are generally pre-1959 American cars that belch diesel fumes and can squash in at least three people across the front seat. State-owned taxis that charge in convertibles hang about bus stations and are faster and usually cheaper than the bus.
Horse Carriage
Many provincial cities have coches de caballo (horse carriages) that trot on fixed routes, often between train/bus stations and city centers. Prices in moneda nacional cost around one peso.
Taxi
Car taxis are metered and cost CUC$1 to start and CUC$1 per kilometer in cities. Taxi drivers are in the habit of offering foreigners a flat, off-meter rate that usually works out very close to what you'll pay with the meter. The difference is that with the meter, the money goes to the state to be divided up; without the meter it goes into the driver's pocket.
Tours
Of the many tourist agencies in Cuba, the following are the most useful:
Cubamar ViajesTOURIST INFORMATION
(%7-833-2524, 7-833-2523; www.cubamarviajes.cu)
Rents campismo cabins and mobile homes (caravans).
CubanacánTOURIST INFORMATION
(%7-873-2686; www.cubanacan.cu)
General tour agency that also has divisions called Cubanacán Náutica (scuba diving, boating and fishing) and Turismo Y Salud (surgery, spas and rehabilitation).
Train
Public railways operated by Ferrocarriles de Cuba serve all of the provincial capitals and are a unique way to experience Cuba, as long as you have the patience of a saint (ie they're slow). While train travel is safe, the departure information provided is purely theoretical. Getting a ticket is usually no problem, as there's a quota for tourists paying in convertibles.
Foreigners must pay for their tickets in cash, but prices are reasonable and the carriages, though old and worn, are fairly comfortable. The toilets are foul – bring toilet paper. Watch your luggage on overnight trips and bring some of your own food. Only the Tren Francés has snack facilities, although vendors often come through the train selling coffee (you supply the cup).
A regularly updated précis of Cuban train times, types and nuances is available on the website The Man in Seat Sixty-one (www.seat61.com), run by Mark Smith in the UK. The website covers train travel across the globe, but has a decent printed run-down on Cuba's main train services.
Train Stations
Cuban train stations, despite their occasionally grandiose facades, are invariably dingy, chaotic places with little visible train information. Departure times are displayed on black chalkboards or handwritten notices; there are no electronic or printed timetables. Always check train info two to three days before your intended travel.
Classes
Trains are either especial (air-conditioned, faster trains with fewer departures), regular (slowish trains with daily departures) or lecheros (milk trains that stop at every little town on the line). Trains on major routes such as Havana–Santiago de Cuba will be especial or regular trains.
Costs
Regular trains cost under CUC$3 per 100km, while especial trains cost closer to CUC$5.50 per 100km. The Hershey Train is priced like the regular trains.
Reservations
In most train stations, you just go to the ticket window and buy a ticket. In Havana, there's a separate waiting room and ticket window for passengers paying in convertibles in La Coubre train station. Be prepared to show your passport when purchasing tickets. It's always wise to check beforehand at the station for current departures because things change.
Rail Network
Cuba's train network is comprehensive, running almost the full length of the main island from Guane in Pinar del Río province to Caimanera, just south of the city of Guantánamo. There are also several branch lines heading out north and south and linking up places such as Manzanillo, Nuevitas, Morón and Cienfuegos. Baracoa is one of the few cities without a train connection. Other trainless enclaves are the Isla de la Juventud, the far west of Pinar del Río province and the northern keys. Trinidad has been detached from the main rail network since a storm brought down a bridge in 1992, though it has a small branch line that runs along the Valle del los Ingenios.
Services
Many additional local trains operate at least daily and some more frequently. There are also smaller trains linking Las Tunas and Holguín, Holguín and Santiago de Cuba, Santa Clara and Nuevitas, Cienfuegos and Sancti Spíritus, and Santa Clara and Caibarién.
The Hershey Train is the only electric railway in Cuba and was built by the Hershey Chocolate Company in the early years of the 20th century; it's a fun way to get between Havana and Matanzas.
THE TREN FRANCéS
Cuba's best and fastest train is the Tren Francés, which runs between Havana and Santiago de Cuba in both directions every third day (1st/2nd class CUC$62/50, 15½ hours, 861km). Train No 1 leaves Havana at 6.27pm, passing Santa Clara and Camagüey, before reaching Santiago de Cuba at 9am-ish. Train 2 leaves Santiago de Cuba at 8:17pm and reaches Havana at 11am-ish. The trains use secondhand French carriages (hence the name), which formerly operated on the Paris–Brussels–Amsterdam European route. They were bought by the Cubans in 2001. The carriages are relatively comfortable, if a little worn, with frigid air-conditioning, a limited cafe, a purser (one per carriage) and decidedly dingy toilets. As with many things in Cuba, it's not so much the quality of the carriages that's the problem, but their upkeep – or lack thereof. The Tren Francés has two classes, primera and primera especial. The latter is worth the extra CUC$12 investment.
The Tren Francés was being overhauled at the time of research and was scheduled to re-hit the rails soon.
Truck
Camiones (trucks) are a cheap, fast way to travel within or between provinces. Every city has a provincial and municipal bus stop with camiones departures. They run on a (loose) schedule and you'll need to take your place in line by asking for el último to your destination; you pay as you board. A truck from Santiago de Cuba to Guantánamo costs five pesos (CUC$0.20), while the same trip on a Víazul bus costs CUC$6.
Camion traveling is hot, crowded and uncomfortable, but is a great way to meet local people, fast; a little Spanish will go a long way.
Sometimes terminal staff tell foreigners they're prohibited from traveling on trucks. As with anything in Cuba, never take 'no' as your final answer. Crying poor, striking up a conversation with the driver, appealing to other passengers for aid etc usually helps.