NΑΎΠΛΙΟ / Nαύπλιο
Map: Nafplio Hotels & Restaurants
The charming Peloponnesian port town of Nafplio is small, cozy, and strollable. Though it has plenty of tourism, Nafplio is both elegant and proud. It’s a must-see on any Greek visit because of its historical importance, its accessibility from Athens (an easy 2.5-hour drive or bus ride), and its handy location as a home base for touring the ancient sites of Epidavros and Mycenae (described in the next two chapters). Nafplio has great pensions, appealing restaurants, a thriving evening scene, inviting beaches nearby, and a good balance of real life and tourist convenience.
Nafplio loudly trumpets its special footnotes in Greek history. Thanks to its highly strategic position—nestled under cliffs at the apex of a vast bay—it changed hands between the Ottomans and the Venetians time and again. But Nafplio ultimately distinguished itself in the 1820s by becoming the first capital of a newly independent Greece, headed by President Ioannis Kapodistrias. Although those glory days have faded, the town retains a certain genteel panache. It’s as chic as Athens, but with palm-tree waterfronts and way less graffiti.
Owing to its prestigious past, Nafplio’s harbor is guarded by three castles: one on a small island (Bourtzi), another just above the Old Town (ancient Akronafplia), and a third capping a tall cliff above the city (Palamidi Fortress). All three are wonderfully floodlit at night. If you’re not up for the climb to Palamidi, explore Nafplio’s narrow and atmospheric back streets, lined with elegant Venetian houses and Neoclassical mansions, and dip into its likeable museums.
Nafplio is light on sightseeing opportunities, but heavy on ambience. Two nights and one day is more than enough time to enjoy everything the town has to offer. With one full day in Nafplio, consider the arduous hike up to Palamidi Fortress first thing in the morning, before the worst heat of the day (bring water and wear good shoes; to save time and sweat, you can also drive or taxi there). Then get your bearings in the Old Town by following my self-guided walk, and visit any museums that appeal to you. In the afternoon, hit the beach. (If you get a late start, do the hike in the early evening.)
Nafplio also serves as an ideal launch pad for visiting two of the Peloponnese’s best ancient sites (each within a 45-minute drive or bus ride, and covered in the next two chapters): the best-preserved ancient theater anywhere, at Epidavros; and the older-than-old hilltop fortress of Mycenae. It’s worth adding a day to your Nafplio stay to fit these in. If you have a car, you can see both of these (and drive up to the Palamidi Fortress) in one very full day; for an even more efficient plan, consider squeezing them in on your way into or out of town (for example, notice that Mycenae is between Nafplio and the major E-65 expressway to the north). These sites are also reachable by bus. While it’s possible to do them both by bus on the same day, for a more relaxed approach consider two full days in Nafplio, spending a half-day at each site, and two half-days in the town.
Because everything of interest is concentrated in the peninsular Old Town, Nafplio feels smaller than its population of 14,500. The mostly traffic-free Old Town is squeezed between the hilltop Akronafplia fortress and the broad seafront walkways of Bouboulinas and Akti Miaouli; the core of this area has atmospherically tight pedestrian lanes, bursting with restaurants and shops. Syntagma Square (Plateia Syntagmatos) is the centerpiece of the Old Town. From here traffic-free Vasileos Konstantinou—called “Big Street” (Megalos Dromos) by locals—runs east to Syngrou street, which separates the Old Town from the New Town. The tranquil upper part of the Old Town, with some of my favorite accommodations, is connected by stepped lanes.
Note that the town’s name can be spelled a staggering number of different ways in English: Nafplio, Nauplio, Navplio, Naufplio, Nauvplio, and so on—and all these variations may also appear with an “n” at the end (Nafplion, etc.). This makes it tricky to look for information online (e.g., weather reports or hotel-booking sites); try all the variations until you find one that works.
Nafplio’s clueless-at-best TI is just inside Town Hall, on Town Hall Square (Mon-Fri 7:30-14:30 & 16:30-19:30, Sat-Sun 9:00-13:00, tel. 27520-24444). Its guaranteed-job-security clerks are living proof that Greece needs to reform its civil-service system (test your charisma by trying to charm a smile out of the staff). However, the office does offer free bikes: Simply leave your passport or other photo ID as collateral, and a rickety-but-workable bike is yours for as long as you’d like it. If you’re at the TI already, you might as well pick up the free town map and brochure...then get your questions answered at your hotel.
By Car: Parking is free, easy, and central along the port, which runs in front of the Old Town (look for the big lots). If you’re staying higher up, ask your hotel about more convenient parking (for example, there are several free spaces near the old, abandoned Hotel Xenia on the road up to the Akronafplia fortress).
By Bus: The bus station is conveniently located right where the Old Town meets the New; from here all my recommended accommodations are within a 10-minute walk.
Unpredictable Hours: Don’t count on the opening hours for sights and museums given in this book. Though they were accurate at the time of printing, the times are likely to fluctuate wildly at the whims of the government and the Greek economy. Check locally before planning your day.
Festivals: Nafplio hosts a classical music festival in late June. It features a mix of Greek and international performers playing at such venues as the Palamidi and Bourtzi fortresses (www.nafplionfestival.gr). The town is also a good base for seeing drama and music performances at the famous Theater of Epidavros during the Athens & Epidavros Festival (weekends in July-Aug; see here). The local bus company operates special buses to the festival.
Post Office: The post office is at the corner of Syngrou and Sidiras Merarchias (Mon-Fri 7:30-14:00, closed Sat-Sun).
Bookshops: Odyssey sells international newspapers, maps, local guidebooks, and paperbacks in English (daily 8:00-24:00, on Syntagma Square next to the National Bank building, tel. 27520-23430).
Free Bikes: The otherwise-useless TI offers free bikes in exchange for your passport or photo ID (see hours under “Tourist Information,” earlier).
Local Guide: Patty Staikou is a charming Nafplio native who enjoys sharing her town and nearby ancient sites with visitors (fair and negotiable prices for a 1-hour tour of Nafplio or 1.5-hour tours of Epidavros or Mycenae—she’ll meet you there, mobile 697-778-3315, pstaikou@mail.gr).
Travel Agency: Stavropoulos Tours, conveniently located near the bus station, can help you book a boat ticket to Hydra (or anywhere else in Greece), and provides bus information (long hours daily, 24 Plapouta street, tel. 27520-25915, www.stavropoulostours.gr).
Photo Services: Aris and Yiannis Karahalios, who run a photo shop in the middle of the Old Town shopping action, can help you download and/or back up your photos (daily 9:00-14:30 & 17:00-22:30, Konstantinou 7, tel. 27520-28275).
(See “Nafplio Self-Guided Walk” map, here.)
This walk, which takes about an hour and a half, will give you a feel for Nafplio’s pleasant Old Town.
• We’ll begin on the harborfront square opposite the fortified island, marked by a sturdy obelisk.
Square of the Friends of the Greeks (Plateia Filellinon)This space is named for the French soldiers who fell while fighting for Greek independence in 1821. On the memorial 
obelisk, a classical-style medallion shows brothers in arms: Hellas and Gallia (Greeks and French). On the other side is the French inscription.
You might see a cruise ship docked here on the waterfront. The port was deepened a few years back to accommodate a busy cruise industry (bigger ships, however, still drop anchor around the bend).
Plenty of Nafplio bars, cafés, restaurants, and tavernas face the harbor. The embankment called 
Akti Miaouli promenades to the left with a long line of sedate al fresco tables filled by an older clientele. (These may be the most expensive cafés in town, but well-heeled tourists don’t mind shelling out an extra euro or two for the view.) The promenade continues along the shore entirely around the point to Arvanitia Beach, where a road returns to town up and over the saddle between the two fortresses (consider this route for an easy hike).
The 
Bouboulinas promenade heads in the other direction (to the right, as you face the water)—first passing fine fish tavernas (listed on here) and then a string of trendy bars. Late at night, forget about the fish—this is Nafplio’s meat market, where hormone-oozing young Greeks hit the town.
From the harbor, you can also see the three Venetian forts of Nafplio. The mighty little fortress island just offshore, called Bourtzi, was built during the first Venetian occupation (15th century) to protect the harbor. Most of what you see today is an 18th-century reconstruction from the second Venetian occupation. A shuttle boat departs from here to visit the island. It’s a fun little trip, but there’s not much to see there beyond a pleasant city view (€4 round-trip, returns after 15 minutes, catch a later boat if you want to linger).
Capping the hill high above is the Palamidi Fortress (highest, to the left); below it is Nafplio’s ancient acropolis, the Akronafplia (lower, to the right, with a tower). Locals claim that the Palamidi Fortress, built in just three years (1711-1714), is the best-preserved Venetian fort in the Mediterranean. It can be reached by climbing nearly a thousand stone stairs...or by paying €7 for a taxi. The view is rewarding, but the building itself is a bulky, impressive, empty shell. The lower Akronafplia Fortress is built upon the remains of an ancient fort. The big stones at the base of its wall date from the third century B.C.
On your left as you face the hilltop fortresses, the building to the left of the white church is Harvard University’s Center for Hellenic Studies.
• With your back to the water, walk up the street to the right of Hotel Grande Bretagne (Farmakopoulou). After a block, on the first corner (left), is a popular gelateria. Resist temptation for just a minute and first head across the small square, to the...
Church of St. Mary Above All Saints
This church has a proud history: It originally dates from the 15th century; today’s building is from the 18th century; and just a few years ago, they peeled back, then reapplied, all the plaster. The priest at this church is particularly active, keeping it open late into the evening (long after many other Nafplio churches have closed). Outside the door he posts a daily message—a thought to ponder or a suggested prayer.
Step inside—it’s generally open. The flat ceiling with the painted Trinity in three circular panels shows a Venetian influence—most Greek Orthodox churches of this period are domed. The more typical iconostasis, a wall of Greek Orthodox icons, separates worshippers from priests. If you’re so moved, drop in a coin for a candle and light up a prayer. Next to one of the icons on the side, you might see a basket with individually wrapped cotton balls. These have been dipped in oil that was blessed by the priest; you can take one home to transfer the blessing to somebody (often used for children).
• Leave the church through the door you came in, and dip into the...
Antica Gelateria di RomaGreece has great honey-dripping desserts, but nobody does ice cream like the Italians. This popular, fun-loving, air-conditioned ice-cream parlor is run by Marcello and family, who offer a taste of Italy: gelato, fruit-based sorbetto, as well as other treats such as biscotti, limoncello, and cappuccino. This is one holdover from the Venetian occupation that no local will complain about. (For more details on this gelateria, see here.)
• Gelato in hand, exit Marcello’s to the left, crossing a pedestrian street and passing the imposing beige-stone building on your right. Then stop to take in the big square you’ve suddenly landed in.
Syntagma Square (Plateia Syntagmatos)
Like the main square in Athens, Nafplio’s central plaza is dubbed “Constitution Square,” celebrating the 1843 document that established a constitutional monarchy for Greece. Nafplio was one of the first towns liberated from the Ottoman Turks (1822), and became the new country’s first capital. The square is a delightful mix of architectural styles, revealing the many layers of local history.
Survey this scene in a counterclockwise spin-tour, starting on your immediate right. The big building flying the Greek flag was originally the Venetian arsenal. Of course, wherever Venice ruled, you’ll find its symbol: the winged lion of its patron saint, Mark (over the door). The building is stout with heavily barred windows because it once stored gunpowder and weapons. Today it houses the town’s 
Archaeological Museum (described later, under “Sights in Nafplio”).
Just to the left of the museum is a domed former mosque. In 1825, with the Muslim Ottomans expelled, this building was taken over and renovated to house independent Greece’s first parliament. (Now it serves as a conference center.)
The big 
National Bank of Greece (facing the long side of the square, opposite the cafés) harkens back to the very earliest Greek civilizations with its dark-red columns that taper toward the base, as if they were tree trunks stood on their heads (shaped and painted just like the ones in the circa-1500 B.C. Minoan palaces on Crete). In front of the bank stands another Venetian winged lion from the old fortress. The second former mosque fronting this square (at the far end) was converted after independence into Greece’s first primary school; today it’s a gallery and theater. To the left, look up past the popular cafés and restaurants to appreciate the square’s series of stately Neoclassical buildings.
• Head across the square and walk down the pedestrian street opposite the arsenal.
The “Big Street” (Megalos Dromos)
While Nafplio’s main drag is named for King Constantine (Vasileos Konstantinou), locals know it as Megalos Dromos (“Big Street”). On the left, near the start of the street at #1, is the quirky (and recommended) Lathos Bar (“Mistake Bar,” labeled ΛΑΘΟΣ), run by an eccentric character.
This town is something of a shoppers’ paradise—many streets are crammed with shops selling everything from the usual tacky tourist trinkets to expensive jewelry, all aimed at the fat wallets of Athenian weekenders.
• Turn right at the first corner up the narrow alley, then turn left onto Staikopoulou. After about a block, on the left (at #25), is a...
Worry-Bead ShopShop owner Aris Evangelinos has a real passion for worry beads. If you’re in the market for a set of beads, you’ve come to the right place. The ground-floor shop here features a remarkable selection—the cheapest, synthetic sets cost about €6; the priciest, which can cost hundreds of euros, are antique or made of amber (for more information on worry beads, see here). And though you can buy cheap worry beads at practically every tourist shop in Greece, if you’d like to survey all your options and pick out something a little more special, you might as well do it here. The staff is helpful in explaining the varieties. The overpriced “Komboloï Museum” upstairs shows off a few small rooms of the owner’s favorites from Aris’ vast collection, while a handful of English labels explain how variations on worry beads are used by many different faiths.
Cost and Hours: Shop—free, museum—€3; both open daily in summer 9:00-22:00, in off-season open until around 20:30 but closed Tue; Staikopoulou 25, tel. 27520-21618, www.komboloi.gr.
• At the next intersection, turn left and walk one block back down to the “Big Street.” Turn right onto the “Big Street” and follow it until you emerge into...
Town Hall SquareA statue marks the one-time location of the palace of King Otto (OΘΩN), the first head of state of post-Ottoman Greece. (The great powers—England, France, and Russia—insisted that the newly independent Greeks have a monarchy, so Otto was imported from Bavaria.) He wasn’t here for long, though: An enthusiastic student of classical history, Otto was charmed by the idea of reviving the greatness of ancient Athens, and moved the capital to Athens after just one year. (The palace that stood here burned down in 1929.)
Otto, looking plenty regal, gazes toward the New Town. Fifty yards in front of Otto (on the right) is the Neoclassical “first high school of Greece”—today’s Town Hall, and home to the TI. The monument in front celebrates a local hero from the war against the Ottomans. Until recently this square was named “Three Admirals Square”—remembering the three great European powers (France, Britain, and Russia) that helped the Greeks overthrow their Ottoman rulers in 1821.
• At the far end of Town Hall Square, you hit the busy...
This thoroughfare separates the Old Town from the New. Out of respect for the three-story-tall Old Town, no new building is allowed to exceed that height—even in the New Town.
In the square across the street, a statue honors Ioannis Kapodistrias, the president of Greece’s short-lived republic (back when Nafplio was the capital). He faces the Old Town...and Otto, who stepped in when the president’s reign was cut tragically short. (We’ll get the whole story later.)
Just behind Kapodistrias is a family-friendly park. If you want a cheap and fast meal, consider grabbing a bite at one of the family-filled gyros and souvlaki eateries surrounding the park (cheap meals: order and pay at the bar, then find a bench in the park). Goody’s (on the left, by the post office) is the Greek McDonald’s—the local kids’ favorite hamburger joint, found in towns all over Greece.
A few minutes’ walk straight ahead, past the end of the park, is one of Nafplio’s best museums: the 
National Gallery, which shows off evocative artwork from the Greek War of Independence (described later, under “Sights in Nafplio”).
Without crossing Syngrou street, turn right. The commotion surrounds Nafplio’s tiny but busy bus station. KTEL (or KTEΛ in Greek) is the national bus company; in the office here, you can buy tickets from the counter, or get friendlier customer service from the ticket machine out front.
• At the first corner, turn right on Plapouta street. Walk a block to...
St. George SquareThe focal point of the square, Nafplio’s mitropolis (equivalent to a Catholic cathedral), is dedicated to St. George and was the neighborhood church for King Otto. (Otto’s palace was a block away—you can see Town Hall Square by looking down the small alley.) Step into the church’s dark interior (noticing the clever system that prevents the doors from slamming) to see a gigantic chandelier hovering overhead.
Back outside, surveying St. George Square, you get a feel for an old Nafplio neighborhood. Like most of the Old Town, well-worn Neoclassical buildings date from the boom that followed the city’s rise to prominence when it was Greece’s first capital. During the 1820s and 1830s, Nafplio became a haven to refugees from other lands still threatened by the Ottomans.
• Walk a block uphill (toward the fortress) and turn right on Papanikolaou street.
Strolling this quiet lane, note that the Neoclassical grid-planned town is to your right, while the higgledy-piggledy Ottoman town climbs the hillside (with winding and evocative lanes and stepped alleys) on your left.
Straight ahead (100 yards away) stands the white bell tower marking the 
Church of St. Spyridon and its square. Facing the square (on the left, hiding in a niche in the wall, near the steps) is the first of several 18th-century Turkish fountains you’ll see. When the Ottomans controlled Greece, they still used the Arabic script you see here, rather than the Latin alphabet used for modern Turkish. This panel names the guy who paid for the fountain, tells when he had it built (1734-1735), and why (to provide water for his horses). Other fountains have similar tributes, verses from the Quran, or jaunty greetings.
Continue straight along the side of the church to another Ottoman fountain (on the left)—with its characteristic cypress-tree-and-flowers decor.
Between here and the door of the church just ahead is the rough equivalent—to the Greeks—of Ford’s Theater (where Lincoln was assassinated). Ioannis Kapodistrias was elected the first president of independent Greece in 1828. But just three years later, on October 9, 1831, he was shot and stabbed in this spot by Mani landowners who feared his promises of land reform. This led to chaos, less democratic idealism, and the arrival of Greece’s imported Bavarian royalty (King Otto, who we met earlier).
Pop into the church if it’s open. Across from the church is a collapsing hamam, a Turkish bath from the 18th century.
• At the next corner (Kokkinou street), turn right and climb down the slippery marble steps to Staikopoulou street (where we saw the worry bead shop earlier). This time we’ll take it left, back to Syntagma Square.
Staikopoulou Street
This bustling pedestrian drag is lined with grill restaurants (the harborfront is better for fish) and their happy hustlers, and another fine Ottoman fountain (on the right after a block). For a caloric finale, find the traditional 
bakery (on the left corner at #18, with the ΠAPAΔOΣIAKA ΓΛYKA sign, 10 yards before the tall skinny tree and the back of the National Bank). This place has been delighting locals with its baklava and ekmek (roughly, crème-topped baklava) since 1955. Choose a tasty Greek dessert from the display case, and enjoy it at the outdoor tables (for more details on this bakery, see here).
A few steps down on the right take you back to Syntagma Square. Find the tiny black cube in the center and sit on it. Apart from being a handy meeting point for the town’s kids and a stand for the community Christmas tree, it means absolutely nothing.
• Your walk is over. From here you can enjoy the rest of the city. In addition to the museums we’ve already passed (which you can circle back to now), a few more sights—including a folklore museum and a war museum—are within a few blocks (described in the next section). Or you can head to any of Nafplio’s three Venetian forts (see here). If you’re ready to relax, hit the beach (all described under “Sights in Nafplio,” next).
▲▲Nafplio Archaeological Museum
▲National Gallery (Alexandros Soutzos Museum, Nafplio Annex)
Peloponnese Folklore Foundation Museum
Nafplio’s Three Venetian Fortresses
Nafplio’s top museum gives a concise overview of prehistoric Greece and the Mycenaean civilization. Visit here for a great warm-up before you go to Mycenae.
Cost and Hours: €3; May-Oct Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00, Mon 12:00-16:00; Nov-April Tue-Sun 8:30-15:00, closed Mon; hours can change without notice, at the bottom of Syntagma Square, tel. 27520-27502, www.culture.gr.
Visiting the Museum: The museum occupies the top two floors of the grand Venetian arsenal on the main square. Before touring the exhibits, climb the stairs to the second floor and watch one of two videos covering what you’re about to see. If you have a choice, avoid the long, overly scholarly slideshow about regional archaeological digs; ask for the impressionistic video of schoolchildren learning about the discovery of the museum’s priceless set of bronze armor.
After the film, go back downstairs and tour the exhibits, which are well-described in English. The collection runs in chronological order, with Stone Age tools suddenly giving way to dolphin frescos inspired by the Minoan civilization on Crete. Eye-catching jewelry includes a bull-shaped crystal bead (look for the magnifying glass inside a glass case) and strings of gold beads.
The star of the museum stands in the center: the “Dendra Panoply,” a 15th-century B.C. suit of bronze armor that was discovered in a Mycenaean chamber tomb. Also found at the site (and displayed here) is a helmet made from boar tusks. Experts consider this the oldest surviving suit of armor in all of Europe.
The second floor displays artifacts from the Age of Homer to the Roman occupation. Particularly striking are the ceremonial terra-cotta masks along one wall, which look as if they belong in a circus. Check out the display of rare glasswork from the first century A.D.—somehow these pieces have survived two millennia without getting smashed.
Housed in a grandly restored Neoclassical mansion, this museum features both temporary and permanent exhibits. The permanent collection, displayed upstairs, is devoted to Romantic artwork (mostly paintings) stemming from the inspirational Greek War of Independence (1821-1829), which led to Nafplio’s status as the first capital of independent Greece. The small, manageable collection is arranged thematically. The English descriptions here are actually worth reading; they explain the historical underpinnings for each piece of art, illuminating common themes such as the dying hero, naval battles, and the hardships of war. The art itself might not be technically masterful, but the patriotism shimmering beneath it is stirring even to non-Greeks.
Cost and Hours: €3, free on Mon; open Mon and Wed-Sat 10:00-15:00, Wed and Fri also 17:00-20:00, Sun 10:00-14:00, closed Tue; a 5-minute walk into the New Town from the bus station along major road called Sidiras Merarchias, at #23, tel. 27520-21915, www.culture.gr.
Dedicated to Peloponnesian culture, this modern exhibit fills two floors with clothing, furniture, and jewelry that trace the cultural history of Nafplio and the surrounding region. While not explained in a particularly engaging way, the interesting collection—which ranges from colorful and traditional costumes, to stiff urban suits, to formal gowns—is at least well-displayed.
Cost and Hours: €2; Mon and Wed-Sat 9:00-14:30, Sun 9:30-15:00, closed Tue, last entry 30 minutes before closing, fun gift shop with Greek crafts, Vasileos Alexandrou 1, tel. 27520-28947, www.pli.gr.
This small exhibit, operated and staffed by the Greek armed forces, is best left to ardent Greek patriots and military buffs; for most others it’s not worth the small admission fee. It displays old illustrations and photos of various conflicts (some providing a peek into Nafplio’s past cityscape), plus weapons and uniforms (with some English descriptions). The top floor, dedicated to the modern era, displays some interesting WWII-era political cartoons from the Greek perspective.
Cost and Hours: €2; Tue-Sat 9:00-14:00, Sun 9:30-14:00, closed Mon, on Amalias, tel. 27520-25591, www.warmuseum.gr.
In the days when Venice was the economic ruler of Europe (15th-18th centuries), the Venetians fortified Nafplio with a trio of stout fortresses. These attempted—but ultimately failed—to fend off Ottoman invasion. Conquered by the Ottomans in 1715, Nafplio remained in Turkish hands until the Greeks retook the city, in 1822. Today all three parts of the Venetian fortifications are open to visitors. These are listed in order from lowest to highest.
While this heavily fortified island—just offshore from Nafplio’s waterfront—looks striking, there’s not much to do here (pictured above). Still, it’s a pleasant vantage point, offering fine views back on the city.
Cost and Hours: Boats depart regularly from the bottom of the square called Friends of the Greeks/Plateia Filellinon, €4 round-trip, won’t run with fewer than 4 people; once on island it’s free to enter the fortress.
Nafplio’s ancient acropolis, capping the low hill just behind the Old Town, is fairly easy to reach (a manageable but sometimes-steep 10- to 15-minute uphill hike—from the Old Town, just find your way up on any of a number of narrow stepped lanes, then bear left to reach the main road that leads up into the eastern end of the fortress). The earliest surviving parts of this fortress date back to the third century B.C., but the Venetians brought it up to then-modern standards in the 15th century. Up top, there’s little to see aside from a few ruins (free to enter and explore anytime). The top of the hill is flanked by two modern hotels: at the east end (toward Palamidi), the deserted and decaying Hotel Xenia; and at the west end, the top-of-the-top Nafplia Palace hotel (which is connected by elevator to the top of the Old Town).
This imposing hilltop fortress, built between 1711 and 1714, is the best-preserved of its kind in Greece. Palamidi towers over the Old Town, protected to the west by steep cliffs that plunge 650 feet to the sea. From its highest ramparts, you can spot several Aegean islands and look deep into the mountainous interior of the Peloponnesian Peninsula.
Cost and Hours: €4, daily 8:30-sunset (or earlier), tel. 27520-28036. If you plan to go in the afternoon, call first to confirm the closing time. Allow at least 30 minutes up top, and wear sturdy shoes.
Getting There: If you’re fit, you can reach the fortress the old-fashioned way: by climbing the loooong flight of steps that lead up from the road to Akronafplia fortress (near the top end of Polyzoidou street, just outside the Old Town). Try asking a few locals exactly how many steps there are—most estimates are between 850 and 1,000, but you’re unlikely to hear the same answer twice. (One favorite legend says that there used to be exactly 1,000 steps, but Theodoros Kolokotronis—hero of the Greek War of Independence, later imprisoned in this fortress—broke the bottom one when he tried to ride his horse up the steps after defeating the Ottomans in 1822.) Someone, however, has attempted to pin it down by marking the steps at intervals of 100. The toughest part of the climb is the heat: Bring water, and either get an early start or go later in the day (but be sure of the closing time, and start climbing at least an hour before then).
Alternatively, you can catch a taxi to the top for about €7 one-way. If you have your own car, you can drive to the top for free: Follow signs east of town for the beach at Karathona/Καραθωνα, and after ascending the hill, watch for the turn-off on the right up to Palamidi/Παλαμηδη.
Services: WCs are just outside the St. Andrew’s Bastion, near the ticket kiosk for hill climbers. Outside the drivers’ entrance, a snack cart is usually open in the parking lot.
Visiting the Fortress: The mighty outer walls enclose a sprawling complex of interconnected bastions that are fun to poke around in. Signs are sparse; navigate with the free pamphlet that comes with your ticket. I’ve described each bastion in a roughly counterclockwise order, starting with the lowest section, where climbers enter the fortress. If you’ve arrived by car, follow signs to the St. Andrew’s Bastion to begin this loop.
The most important and best-preserved is the St. Andrew’s Bastion (Agios Andreas), which offers the best views over the rooftops of old Nafplio. Inside the bastion, find the small church. Behind it, under the first archway, is a tiny entrance leading to two small cells of the miserable little Kolokotronis Prison (you’ll need to crouch and scramble to get inside). Greek hero Theodoros Kolokotronis, the guy whose horse may or may not have busted the lowest step to the fortress, was imprisoned here by his political opponents after playing a key role in liberating Greece from Ottoman rule. Back outside, scamper up the giant vaults, which form an angled approach up to the ramparts.
Climb farther uphill to reach the Phokion Bastion, and beyond it the Themistocles Bastion, which crowns the hilltop. At the bastion’s highest point, find the little doorway leading to the cliff. According to local lore, in 1779 the occupying Ottomans hired hundreds of Albanian mercenaries to suppress a local rebellion. Unable to pay them for a job ruthlessly done, the Ottomans lured the mercenaries here, then hurled them to their deaths on the rocks of Arvanitia (“Treachery”) Beach, far below.
Just beyond the Themistocles Bastion—guarding Palamidi’s remote southern flank—is the fortress’ weakest point, the appropriately named Achilles Bastion. The low walls proved easy to scale when the Ottomans captured the fortress in 1715, less than a year after its completion. A century later, the Ottomans made the same mistake—this was also the route used in 1822 by Greek independence forces when they ousted the Ottomans.
The other two bastions are back down on the inland side: The notorious Miltiades Bastion, which was used as a prison from 1840 to 1920, and the Epaminondas Bastion (with the entry gate to the parking lot).
When Nafplio residents (and visitors) want to hit the beach, they head behind the Old Town peninsula. A rocky pay beach called Arvanitia is on the back side of this peninsula (walk over the saddle between Palamidi and Akronafplia fortresses, or follow the flat pedestrian drag around the western end of the peninsula from the Old Town). For more serious beach-going, consider heading out to Karathona beach, which huddles behind the Palamidi Fortress (a lovely 30-minute walk on a path from Arvanitia beach, or a 10-minute drive from the Old Town).
Both of these ancient attractions are within a 45-minute drive of Nafplio (in different directions) and covered in the next two chapters.
This ancient site, 23 miles (by car) east of Nafplio, has an underwhelming museum, forgettable ruins...and the most magnificent theater of the ancient world. It was built nearly 2,500 years ago to seat 15,000. Today it’s kept busy reviving the greatest plays of antiquity. You can catch musical and dramatic performances from July through August. Try to see Epidavros either early or late in the day; the theater’s marvelous acoustics are best enjoyed in near-solitude. Sitting in the most distant seat as your partner stands on the stage, you can practically hear the retsina wine rumbling in her stomach.
This was the capital of the Mycenaeans, who won the Trojan War and dominated Greece 1,000 years before the Acropolis and other Golden Age Greek sights. The classical Greeks marveled at the huge stones and workmanship of the Mycenaean ruins. Visitors today can still gape at the Lion’s Gate; peer into a cool, ancient cistern; and explore the giant tholos tomb called the Treasury of Atreus. The tomb, built in the 15th century B.C., is like a huge underground igloo, with a vast subterranean dome of cleverly arranged stones.
Nafplio enjoys a thriving after-hours scene with several nightlife microclimates—the age of the clientele varies every few blocks. Poke around to find the café or bar that appeals to you most for a pre- or post-dinner drink. A few zones to consider, by demographic:
Young people flock to the Bouboulinas promenade, where each café/bar tries to trump the next with trendy decor and throbbing soundtracks. Each place has both indoor and outdoor seating. Locals use the Italian word pasarella (“catwalk”) to describe this scene, where sexy young Greeks (many of them Athenians escaping their parents’ houses for a romantic getaway) put on their most provocative outfits to parade for one another. There are no true dance clubs in Nafplio, which has a strict noise ordinance: No loud music in the Old Town after 23:00, unless it’s in a specially insulated room. (Instead, huge seasonal outdoor clubs sprout along the roads leading out of town.)
Everyone seems to enjoy the floodlit marble drawing-room vibe of Syntagma Square. Cafés and restaurants with ample, atmospheric al fresco seating surround a relaxed, open area with people at play. Kids happily run free in the square, playing soccer into the wee hours. Between Syntagma and Bouboulinas, the 30-something crowd lounges at outside tables—too grown-up for Bouboulinas, a little too cool for Syntagma.
The upper crust enjoys the cafés lining the promenade Akti Miaouli. Prices are high, but the water views (with the illuminated island fortress) might be worth the expense. At its farthest southern end is a playground.
Various other bars and cafés are scattered around the Old Town. For a unique experience, consider dropping by the Lathos Bar (“Mistake Bar”). The junk-shop decor is topped by the quirky owner, a town character who couldn’t care less about business. If he doesn’t like you, he won’t serve you (nights only, closed Tue, a few steps off Syntagma Square on the “Big Street” at Konstantinou 1).
Nafplio enjoys an abundance of excellent accommodations. Because this is a chic getaway for wealthy Athenians, many of the best beds are in well-run, boutique-ish little pensions. (Some of the smaller pensions are run by skeleton staffs, so don’t expect 24-hour reception; let them know what time you’ll arrive so they can greet you.) The many options allow hotel-seekers to be picky. After surveying the scene, I’ve listed my favorites here, but there are many other good choices.
It’s boom or bust in Nafplio. At the busiest times (June, July, especially Aug, and weekends year-round), hotels are full and prices go up; outside these times, hoteliers are lean and hungry, and rates become very soft. Don’t be afraid to ask for a deal, especially if you’re staying more than a couple of nights. Unless otherwise noted, rates include breakfast; most cafés in town sell a basic breakfast for €5-6.
Most of these accommodations are uphill from the heart of the Old Town—some higher up than others. The good news is that they provide fresh breezes, have almost no mosquitoes, and offer a quiet retreat from the bustling old center; the bad news is that you might have to walk uphill, and probably climb a few flights of stairs, to reach your room.
Amfitriti Boutique Hotels has three locations at the top of the Old Town: $$$ Amfitriti Palazzo’s seven plush rooms, highest up, have balconies with sweeping views and fun classy-mod decor, with some rooms built right into the rock (Db-€85-110, family room-€130, top of the hill—just under the old wall); $$ Pension Amfitriti (Αμφι τρίτη), with four romantic rooms, overlooks a pleasant small square along a pedestrian street (Db-€60-70, on Papanikolaou, near the Church of St. Spyridon); and $$ Amfitriti Belvedere rents seven colorful, trendy rooms in a renovated old mansion, higher up along some stairs (Db-€55-70, Db with seaview balcony-€90, family room-€110, breakfast served in lovely garden, rooftop view terrace, corner of Zigomala and Kokkinou). All rooms have free Wi-Fi and are cheaper in winter (Oct-April), especially on weekdays, and share contact info (tel. 27520-96250, www.amfitriti-pension.gr, info@amfitriti-pension.gr, Evangelia and family).
$$$ Amymone Pension and Adiandi Hotel are a pair of super-stylish, trendy boutique hotels a few doors apart along one of Nafplio’s most inviting restaurant lanes. Each room is different, but all are hip and boldly decorated (both hotels have lots of stairs with no elevator, free Wi-Fi and guest computer, decadently long breakfast hours, tel. 27520-99477 or 27520-22073). The very central location can come with a bit more noise than my other listings. The Amymone (Αμυμώνη) has eight rooms, a lighter color scheme, and a country-mod aesthetic (Db-€75-125 depending on size, Othonos 39, info@amymone.gr). The Adiandi (Αδιάντη), with seven rooms, comes with richer colors and seriously artsy decor (Db-€80-120 depending on size, Othonos 31, info@hotel-adiandi.com).
$$$ Ippoliti Hotel (IΠΠOΛYTH) is my choice for a classy business-hotel splurge, with 19 elegantly decorated, hardwood-floor rooms with antique touches. In summer, breakfast is served on the patio beside the small swimming pool (Db-€100-180 depending on size, elevator, free Wi-Fi, small gym, near waterfront at Ilia Miniati 9, at corner with Aristidou, tel. 27520-96088, www.ippoliti.gr, info@ippoliti.gr).
$$ Pension Marianna sets the bar for welcoming, good-value accommodations in Nafplio (and all of the Peloponnese). The friendly Zotos brothers—Petros, Panos, and Takis—have earned their top billing in all the guidebooks by offering genuine hospitality, fair rates, and comfortable, inviting rooms. It’s scenically situated just under the lower Akronafplia wall, well worth the steep climb up the stairs from the Old Town. The 26 rooms—some with views and/or little balconies, some with old-stone decor, all well cared for—are scattered throughout several levels, overlooked by an airy terrace, where you can enjoy a breakfast made up almost entirely from the (organic) products of their nearby farm (fresh homemade lemonade, olives, jam—even the cake is made from their own flour). Unless you’re on the strictest of budgets, try here first—but book early, as this understandably popular place can fill up (mention this book for these prices: Sb-€50, small Db-€55, standard/bigger Db-€65, Tb-€70, Qb-€80; breakfast-€5, no elevator, free Wi-Fi, Potamianou 9, tel. 27520-24256, www.hotelmarianna.gr, info@hotelmarianna.gr).
$$ Byron Hotel is a traditional, family-run standby with 18 simple, older-feeling rooms in a scenic setting up some stairs above the Old Town (Sb-€35, Db-€40-60 depending on views, bigger Db-€80, Tb-€70, free Wi-Fi, Platonos 2, tel. 27520-22351, www.byronhotel.gr, byronhotel@otenet.gr, Greek Aris and Swiss Monica).
$$ Pension Rigas is a gem with seven cozy, charmingly rustic rooms in a refurbished old building with exposed stone and beams, hardwood floors, high ceilings, and lots of character. Its comfy lobby and small patio area provide a convivial space for guests to share travel stories (Db-€40-70 depending on size—the €40 Db is tiny but adequate, slightly cheaper for Sb, extra bed-€5, likely no breakfast but tea/coffee supplies provided, free Wi-Fi, Kapodistriou 8, tel. 27520-23611, www.pension-rigas.gr, regaspension@hotmail.com).
$$ Hotel Leto is a few steps up the slopes of the Akronafplia fortress and near the waterfront. Its 20 rooms, though utterly uninspired, all have sea views; ask for a balcony at no extra charge—and try to get the elusive and popular room #121 (Sb-€35, Db-€45-65 depending on demand, extra bed-€10, €6 less without breakfast, free Wi-Fi, Zigomala 28, tel. 27520-28093, www.leto-hotel.com, letoht@otenet.gr, owned and run by helpful George and Alenka).
$ Pension Filyra (Φιλύρα) has six tastefully decorated rooms at a nice price in a few buildings in the heart of the Old Town (Db-€40-50 depending on size, attic suite with kitchenette and low beams-€60, all rates €10 more on weekends, often cheaper Sept-May, discount for stays of 3 or more days, your mini-fridge is stocked with a basic continental breakfast, free Wi-Fi, Aggelou Terzaki 29, tel. 27520-96096, www.pensionfilyra.gr, info@pensionfilyra.gr).
$ Pension Anapli is a cute little place with seven colorful, dressed-up rooms with iron-frame beds (Db-€45, Db with balcony-€50, €10 extra on weekends, free Wi-Fi, Fotomara 21, tel. 27520-24585, www.pension-anapli.gr, info@pension-anapligr).
$ Dimitris Bekas rents seven no-frills, clean backpacker rooms sharing an incredible (though unshaded) view terrace at the very top of town. Dimitris is a devotee of American sports—if you’re falling behind on the scores, he’ll fill you in (D-€28-30, Db-€35, no breakfast, shared mini-fridge, no air-con but fans, no Wi-Fi, look for signs off Potamiou, above the Catholic church at Efthimiopoulou 26, tel. 27520-24594).
(See “Nafplio Hotels & Restaurants” map, here.)
Nafplio is bursting with tempting eateries. Because most of them cater to Athenians on a weekend break, they aim to please repeat customers. This also means that prices can be a bit high. In two high-profile restaurant zones—the tavernas along Staikopoulou street (just above Syntagma Square) and the fish restaurants on Bouboulinas street (along the waterfront)—waiters compete desperately for the passing tourist trade. While I’d avoid the places on Staikopoulou (in favor of similar but better alternatives nearby), if you want seafood, the Bouboulinas fish joints are worth a look (described in this section). I’ve focused most of my coverage on the tight pedestrian lanes between these two areas, toward the water from Syntagma Square, where values are good and ambience is excellent. Note that hours can fluctuate between seasons; take the hours listed here as a rough guideline.
Mezedopoleio O Noulis—run by Noulis, the man with the mighty moustache shown on the sign—serves up a fabulous range of mezedes (appetizers). Three or four mezedes constitute a tasty meal for two people. This place offers a rare chance to sample saganaki flambé (fried cheese flambéed with Metaxa brandy, €7). As Noulis likes to do it all himself, don’t come here if you’re in a hurry (€4-7 starters, €7 appetizer plate, €8-12 seafood and meat dishes; mid-May-Sept Mon-Sat 11:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, Oct-mid-May Mon-Sat 12:00-16:00, closed Sun year-round, Moutzouridou 21, tel. 27520-25541).
Imarton (ήμαρτον, “God Forbid Me”) is a bright, tiny bistro with appealing traditional decor mingled with mod flair. Because the place is so small, dishes are prepared in advance and heated up when you order. They specialize in small plates rather than big dishes—mostly cheeses and a staggering variety of sausages. Their soutzoukakia—meatballs with spicy tomato sauce—are delicious (€3-6 small plates, €6-8 main dishes, €8-12 seafood items; late July-mid-Sept daily 19:00-23:00 except Sat opens at 10:00; off-season Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, closed Mon; Plapouta 33, tel. 27520-25109, mobile 697-849-6935, gregarious Georgia and Dimitris).
Taverna Paleo Arhontiko (“Old Mansion”) is a favorite town hangout. That’s partly because of the food, partly for the reasonable prices, partly for the lovely outside ambience, and partly because there’s live music every night from 22:00 in summer. It gets packed on weekends, when reservations are recommended (€3-5 appetizers, €6-12 main dishes, daily 12:00-16:00 & 19:30-24:00, at corner of Ypsilandou and Siokou, tel. 27520-22449).
Epi Skinis (“On Stage”) is a new stage for former theater director Kouros Zachos and his wife Evangelia. The cozy dining room, decorated with playbills and other theater paraphernalia, feels a bit classier than the tavernas nearby. Theater-lovers in town to visit Epidavros might enjoy capping their day here (€3-8 starters, €8-17 main dishes, Tue-Sun 13:00-late, closed Mon, Amalias 19A, tel. 27520-21331).
Tavernas on Olgas Street: The lane called Olgas, tucked away in a grid of streets just two blocks up from the waterfront, is filled with charming, family-run tavernas serving Greek classics to happy tourists. At any of these, you can choose between a cozy, rustic interior or outdoor tables. Window-shop along here, or seek out these two good options: Aiolos (αιoλoς, €3-5 starters, €5-9 pastas, €7-11 main dishes, try the “drunken chicken,” Mon-Fri 17:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 12:00-24:00, Olgas 30, tel. 27520-26828) and To Omorfo Tavernaki (“The Beautiful Little Tavern”; €3-5 starters, €7-15 main dishes, daily 17:00-24:00, Kotsonopoulou 1, at corner with Olgas, tel. 27520-25944, Tsioli family).
Fish Restaurants on Bouboulinas: As you stroll the harborfront, the throbbing dance beats of the trendy café/bars gradually give way to the fishy aromas and aggressive come-ons of a string of seafood eateries. As these places are fairly interchangeable, you could just browse for what looks best to you (all open daily, roughly 12:00-24:00). Seafood here is typically priced by the kilogram or half-kilogram (figure about 250-300 grams for a typical portion—around €10-20 for a seafood entrée, or about €6-15 for a meat dish). These two are well-regarded: Savouras (ΣABOYPAΣ, at #79) and Arapakos (o Aραπάkoσ, at #81).
Italian on Syntagma Square: For a break from Greek food, Noufara offers Italian cuisine in a classy two-level interior or at a sea of white tables out on classy Syntagma Square. Heaters and fans allow this place’s delightful outdoor seating to stay open in all sorts of weather (€6-12 pizzas and pastas, €8-18 main dishes, daily 10:00-2:00 in the morning, Syntagma Square 3, tel. 27520-23648).
Wine-Tasting: Dimitri Karonis specializes in Greek wines and ouzo, and gives a thorough and informative wine-tasting in the Karonis Wine Shop near Syntagma Square (Mon-Sat 8:30-14:00 & 18:00-21:30, closed Sun, Amalias 5, tel. 27520-24446).
Picnics: The Carrefour Express supermarket is the most convenient of several supermarkets in town (Mon-Fri 8:00-21:00, Sat 8:00-20:00, closed Sun, 50 yards behind the post office at corner of Syngrou and Flessa).
Antica Gelateria di Roma is the place to go for a mouthwatering array of gelati (dairy-based ice cream) and sorbetti (fruit-based sorbet) made fresh on the premises daily by Italian gelato master Marcello Raffo, his wife, Monica, and his sister Claudia. According to their menu, gelato “is suggested for a balanced diet [for] children, athletes, pregnant women, and the elderly for a year round” (prices range from €1.50 for a small cone up to €4.50 for a big waffle cone). The Raffos also offer other Italian snacks, including biscotti cookies, panini and tramezzini sandwiches, the lemon liqueur limoncello, the grape brandy grappa, and Italian-style cappuccino (daily 9:00-2:00 in the morning, free Wi-Fi, Farmakopoulou 3, at corner with Kominou, tel. 27520-23520). Don’t confuse this place with a different ice-cream parlor just up the street.
The best sweets and pastries in town are at the no-name traditional bakery at Staikopoulou 18 (with the ΠAPAΔOΣIAKA ΓΛYKA sign). English is limited, but you can point to the dessert you’d like in the case inside, and they’ll bring it out to you at a sidewalk table (treats for under €3, tel. 27520-26198).
Information given by the often-surly ticket sellers at the bus station can be incomplete. Fortunately, this is one of the few regional bus offices in Greece with an English option on its website; you can even buy tickets online (www.ktel-argolidas.gr). The printed bus schedule is also in English. But be sure to carefully question drivers and other passengers to determine whether you’ll be required to change buses.
Direct buses go to Athens (roughly hourly, 2.5 hours, €13), Epidavros (3/day, 1/day on Sun, 45 minutes, €3), and Mycenae (3/day, no buses on Sun, 45 minutes, €3).
Journeys to other Peloponnesian destinations are possible but more complicated, requiring multiple transfers; get an early start, and be prepared for frustrations and delays: Tripoli (2/day, 1.5 hours—transfer point for many other destinations), Monemvasia (1/day, leaves around 8:30, 4.5 hours, change in Tripoli and Sparta), Olympia (1/day, leaves around 16:30, 5 hours, change in Tripoli). For these destinations, KTEL, the national bus system, has a minimal website (www.ktelbus.com); for better information, try this helpful, unofficial website in English: http://livingingreece.gr (under “Best of...” click on “KTEL Buses of Greece”).
To cut some time off the trip to the ancient sites, you can take a taxi to Mycenae or Epidavros (€50-70 round-trip for either one, with one-hour wait, bargain hard for the best price).
Long-distance boats no longer operate directly out of Nafplio’s port. To reach boats connecting you to Hydra and the other islands in the nearby Saronic Gulf, you’ll first need to get to the ports of Tolo, Ermioni, or Metochi. For specifics on ferry connections from these ports to Hydra, see “Hydra Connections” at the end of the Hydra chapter.
Getting to the Ports: Infrequent excursion boats to Hydra operated by Pegasus Tours leave from the port at Tolo, a short drive or bus ride (10 minutes, €1.60) from Nafplio. These boats usually leave fairly early in the morning, so stop by the bus station in Nafplio to check morning bus times and to get your ticket.
Hellenic Seaways ferries leave from farther away in Ermioni (a.k.a. Hermioni), about an hour southeast of Nafplio. Buses that are supposedly going to Ermioni usually go instead to Kranidi, a larger town about six miles from Ermioni’s port (3/day Mon-Sat, 2/day Sun, 2 hours, €8; this Nafplio-Kranidi bus connection often requires a transfer at the town of Ligourio—pay careful attention so as not to miss this change). From Kranidi, it’s about a €10-15 taxi ride to the dock at Ermioni (try to split the fare with other Ermioni-bound travelers).
“Freedom Boat” ferries operated by Hydra Lines leave from even farther away in Metochi, which is best reached by car (allow 1.5 hours).
Nafplio is a quick and easy drive from Athens (about 2 hours, much of it on toll highways). To reach Monemvasia from Nafplio (3-4 hours), consider taking the scenic route described on here.
