ΜΥΚΟΝΟΣ / Μυκονοσ
Mykonos (MEE-koh-nohs) is the very picture of the perfect Greek island town: a humble seafront village crouched behind a sandy harbor, thickly layered with blinding-white stucco, bright-blue trim, and bursting-purple bougainvilleas. (Thank goodness for all that color; otherwise, this island—one of Greece’s driest—would be various shades of dull-brown.) On a ridge over town stretches a trademark row of five windmills, overlooking a tidy embankment so pretty they call it “Little Venice.”
Mykonos’ more recent status as a fashionable, jet-set destination and a mecca for gay holiday-makers also gives it a certain hip cachet. These days, weary fisherfolk and tacky trinket stalls share the lanes with top-end fashion boutiques. Prices are stunningly high here, and the island is crammed full of fellow vacationers, particularly in August (try to come in spring or fall, if you can). But the Mykonians have taken all of the changes in stride. Fishermen still hang out on the benches by the harbor—always wearing their traditional caps (Mykonian men are famous among Greeks for their baldness). The natives generally seem appreciative rather than corrupted by all the attention. On my last visit, I overheard a young tourist gushing to her mommy, “Boy, people sure are friendly here!”
Mykonos does have some museums, but they merely provide an excuse to get out of the sun for a few minutes. The real attraction here is poking around the Old Town streets: shopping, dining, clubbing, or—best of all—simply strolling. The core of town is literally a maze, designed by the Mykonians centuries ago to discourage would-be invaders from finding their way. That tactic also works on today’s tourists. But I can think of few places where getting lost is so enjoyable.
If you manage to break free, wander up to the windmills for the view, or take a bus (or rent a scooter or ATV) to reach one of the many enticing sandy beaches around the island. Near Mykonos, accessible by an easy boat trip, is the island of Delos—one of the Greek islands’ top ancient sites. Delos hosts the remains of what was one of the most important places in the ancient Greek world: the temples honoring the birthplace of the twin gods Apollo and Artemis (it later became a bustling shipping community). Delos was a pilgrimage site for believers who came from all over to worship this “birthplace of light.” Judging by the present-day sun-worshippers who scramble for the best patch of sand on Mykonos each summer, things haven’t changed much around here.
Mykonos, a delightful place to be on vacation, merits at least a full day and two overnights. The easiest plan is to simply explore the Old Town lanes; the restless can dip into a museum or two, but they’re all skippable. If you want to get out of town, you can tour the archaeological site at Delos (easy 30-minute boat trip each way, figure 3-4 hours round-trip total) or head for the beaches. As Mykonos has better beaches and fewer interesting in-town sights than many other Greek isles, it’s the perfect place to squeeze in some quality beach time.
Be warned that the island can be painfully crowded in peak season, roughly July through mid-September, peaking in August. During this time hotel prices skyrocket, and the beaches (and everything else) are uncomfortably packed with people.
Mykonos’ main town is called Chora (or Hora, Xώρα; roughly “village”), and that’s how you’ll generally see it signed. For ease, I refer to it as “Mykonos town.”
Mykonos town is the main point of entry for the island. The Old Town clusters around the south end of the Old Port (some inter-island boats depart from the north end of the Old Port). Arcing in front of the Old Town is the sandy harbor; at the east end is Taxi Square (a hub for taxis and other services) and, beyond that, the Remezzo bus station and the Old Port; at the west end of the harbor is the pier for Delos ferries and cruise-ship tenders, and beyond that, the Little Venice quarter and the windmill ridge. Squeezed between the harbor and the main road (passing above town on the gentle hill) is a tight maze of whitewashed lanes.
While some streets have names, others don’t, and in any case, locals never use those names—they just know where things are. If you can’t find something, ask.
Though there is a TI building (at the corner of the Old Port), the space hasn’t been occupied in a while. To fill the void, local hotels, travel agencies, and other friendly locals can answer basic questions. Look for promotional but helpful town maps, or consult www.mykonos.gr, the island’s official website.
By Boat: Travelers coming by boat arrive in one of three places: at the New Port, a mile north of the Old Town (passenger ships to/from Piraeus and many cruise ships); at the Old Port, just north of the Old Town (Flying Cat catamarans to the other Cycladic islands, including Santorini); or at the pier jutting out from the Old Town’s sandy harbor (tenders from some cruise ships).
From the New Port you have several options for getting to the Old Town: Take a taxi (€5-10); ride a public bus (2/hour, €1.60); or, if arriving on a cruise, take the cruise line’s shuttle bus (cost varies from free up to $10 round-trip). Either type of bus takes you to the Old Port. Alternatively, you could do the dreary 20- to 25-minute walk along the coast into town (turn right, follow the water, and just keep going—you can see the gaggle of white houses across the bay).
To reach the Old Town from the Old Port, walk five minutes along the harborfront promenade past a stretch of beach, then down a cozy shop-lined lane to Taxi Square and the main harborfront.
If your cruise ship is tendered, you’ll disembark at the pier extending out from the heart of town. Just walk down the pier and you’re at the harbor (there’s a public pay WC on the right, along the water).
By Plane: Mykonos is well-connected by air to Athens, but also (thanks to its worldwide popularity as a vacation spot) to many other European cities (airport code: JMK, tel. 22890-22327). Mykonos’ small airport sits just two miles outside of town, easily connected by a short taxi ride (€8-10). There are also sporadic public buses, but the taxi is so cheap I wouldn’t bother with the bus unless there happens to be one there when you arrive. Some hotels can arrange airport transfers.
Mykonos is a fun and easy island to explore, with several very different but equally inviting beach coves within a short drive.
By Taxi: The square at the southeast corner of the Old Port, nicknamed Taxi Square, is where you can catch a taxi to points around the island. Fares are reasonable; figure €6-12 one-way to most beaches listed in this chapter (except Super Paradise, which is more like €15). Rather than paying the taxi to wait for you at the beach, hail or call a fresh one when you’re ready to leave (tel. 22890-22400). You can also ask a taverna at the beach to call for you.
By Bus: Mykonos’ bus network is well-designed for connecting travelers to its many fine beaches. Buses are frequent, though they might leave you a short walk from the beach itself. And because this is a party island, they run late into the night in peak season. Schedules are posted on chalkboards at stops, and many hotels post copies of the schedule near reception. Rides costs €1.60 (may be a little pricier after midnight); buy your ticket from the bus driver.
There are three bus stations in Mykonos town. For tourists, the most useful is the Fabrika station, at the south end of town (away from the harbor), where several Old Town streets funnel gradually uphill to the main road that passes above. From the Fabrika station you can catch buses to nearby destinations, including the beaches I’ve described in this chapter: Ornos/Agios Ioannis (1-2/hour), Paradise (2/hour), Platis Gialos (2/hour), and Paraga (hourly in high season, fewer in off-season).
Two other stations are virtually next to each other at the northeast edge of the Old Town (from Taxi Square, head along the port with the water to your left): The Old Port station along the water is for buses to the New Port; a block uphill, the Remezzo station serves buses to the eastern half of the island (the large town of Ano Mera, plus the smaller towns of Kalafati and Elia).
By Motorized Scooter or All-Terrain Vehicle (ATV): On Greek islands, tourists are notorious for renting a scooter or an ATV, overestimating their abilities to control a machine they’ve never driven before, and denting someone’s fender or leaving a strip of knee or elbow skin on the pavement...or worse. That said, and keeping in mind the risks inherent in renting wheels here, it can be an affordable, efficient, and memorably fun way to connect distant beaches. If I were renting a scooter or an ATV on a Greek isle, I’d do it here, where the roads are not too heavily trafficked (you’ll pass more fellow scooters and ATVs than cars), and idyllic beaches are a short ride away.
Travel agencies all over town rent both types of wheels for reasonable all-day rates (€10-25/day for a scooter or an ATV, ATVs with reverse gear cost about €5 more). Some places add on another €7-10 per day for insurance. Two people can ride one machine, but both should ask for helmets (you’ll see many riders without them, but it’s stupidly risky not to wear one, and most rental agencies are happy to loan you one). The paperwork is quick and casual (they’ll take a credit-card imprint as a deposit, and you’ll fill up whatever gas you use before you return it).
Once on the road, be especially careful on turns, where centrifugal forces suddenly make it more difficult to steer. Be aware that even distances that appear short can take time to reach on a slow-moving ATV; figure 15-20 minutes from Mykonos town to any of the beaches I list in this chapter (Super Paradise is the farthest). Note: You’ll see ads for renting a “bike,” but this refers to motorized scooters—the island is hilly and arid enough to make actual bicycling undesirable for all but the most serious cyclists.
By Car: You can rent a car for as little as €35 per day, depending on demand; look for car-rental signs at several agencies around town, and negotiate a good bargain if you’re here outside peak season.
Unpredictable Hours: Don’t count on the opening hours given in this book. Though they were accurate at the time of printing, the times are likely to fluctuate wildly at the whims of the government and the Greek economy. Check locally before planning your day.
English Bookstore: The International Press Newsstand, in the Old Town just off the harbor at the Taxi Square end, stocks a good selection of international (including English-language) paperbacks, magazines, and newspapers (long hours daily, Kampani 5, tel. 22890-78507).
Services: You’ll find travel agencies, ATMs, launderettes (€10 drop-off service), Internet cafés, pay phones, and other helpful services scattered around the Old Town. For the highest concentration of services, head for the area around the Fabrika bus station, at the south end of the Old Town (near where it meets the main road; also pay WC, tattoo parlor).
Supermarket: The Three Wells supermarket is the oldest in town, with a wider selection than at most of the smaller groceries in the town center (daily 8:30-24:00 in summer, 8:30-14:00 & 17:00-20:00 in winter, just up from maritime museum on Enoplon Dynameon).
Open-Air Cinema: In summer, locals and vacationers sit back and enjoy the movies under the palm trees at Ciné Manto, in a lovely garden smack in the middle of town (€8, films shown in original language—usually English, June-Sept only, nearly nightly at 20:30 or 21:00, most nights also at 22:30 or 23:00, café, tel. 22890-26165).
▲Little Venice (Mikri Venetia)
▲Church of Panagia Paraportiani
Mykonos’ Old Town seems made for exploring. Each picture-perfect lane is slathered with a thick, bulbous layer of stucco, giving the place a marshmallow-village vibe. All that white is the perfect contrast to the bright-blue sky and the vivid trim. Sometimes described as “cubist” for its irregular jostle of angular rooflines, Mykonos’ townscape is a photographer’s delight. Enjoy getting lost, then found again. Try wandering aimlessly for a while—you may be amazed how quickly you find yourself going in circles. To get your bearings, look at a map and notice that three “main” roads (still barely wide enough for a moped) form a U-shaped circuit facing the harbor: Kouzi Georgouli, Enoplon Dynameon, and Matogianni.
Or just relax along the sandy harbor. The pier for excursion boats to Delos (described later) sticks straight out; nearby is an impossibly picturesque white chapel with sky-blue trim. Nurse an iced coffee or a beer at a rustic café table and watch the tide of tourists wash over local village life. Glancing offshore, you’ll see humble fishing boats bobbing in the foreground, with 2,000-passenger cruise ships looming in the distance. Along the sandy harbor, fisherfolk sort and clean their catch at the marble table (while stray cats gather below), old-timers toss a fishing line into the water, kids skip rocks and rent ponies for a ride on the sand, and shutterbug tourists flock around the resident pelican, Petros. (Ever since a local fisherman found an ailing pelican and nursed it back to health half a century ago, these odd birds have been the town’s mascots.)
The piazza known as Taxi Square, at the east end of the sandy harbor, is a hub of activity monitored by a bust of Manto Mavrogenous (1796-1848), a heroine of the Greek War of Independence. A wealthy aristocrat of Mykonian heritage, she spent her fortune supplying Greek forces in a battle against their Turkish rulers. Mavrogenous ended her life destitute on the island of Paros, never regretting the sacrifices she made for Greece’s freedom.
Mykonos is infamously windy, and Mykonians have special names for the different winds that blow through: “the bell-ringer,” “the chair-thrower,” and “the unseater of horsemen.” As in many Greek island towns, Mykonos’ old-fashioned windmills harnessed this natural power in order to grind grain to supply its ships. Five of them (plus the bases of two more) stand proudly along a ridge called Kato Myloi at the top of town, overlooking the Little Venice area. While there’s nothing to see inside these buildings, they make for a fine photo op and great views over town.
To enter a windmill, head to the opposite (east) end of the Old Town, where the Boni Myli windmill is open to visitors (June-Sept daily 16:00-20:00, closed Oct-May, tel. 22890-22591).
Along the bay at the western edge of town, just below the windmills, wealthy local shipping merchants built a row of fine mansions, with brightly painted wooden balconies, that seem to rise from the deep. While “Little Venice” is a bit of a misnomer (where are the canals?), this is a particularly scenic corner of town. At the head of this area, a stately Catholic church (the only one on Mykonos, which boasts some 400 little Orthodox chapels) marks a square filled with restaurant tables.
The embankment here is lined with cocktail bars and cafés (I particularly like Scarpa, Galleraki, and Caprice), crowded every night with throngs of visitors enjoying the island’s best spot to watch the sunset—one of the highlights of visiting Mykonos.
Huddled at the tip of land between Little Venice and the harbor, this unusual church is a striking architectural oddity—a hodgepodge of five small chapels that gradually merged together, then were draped in a thick layer of whitewashed stucco. While it’s a much-touted landmark (and one of the island’s most-photographed spots), there’s little to see beyond the initial, otherworldly appearance. One of the chapel interiors is open most days, where a local woman sells votive candles and fills the small space with the rich aroma of incense.
This small museum, just uphill from the Old Port, displays artifacts found on the nearby island of Rinia, which became the burial isle for Delos when residents of that sacred island’s cemeteries were relocated by the Athenians in the sixth century B.C. (see sidebar on here). With limited English labels and almost no descriptions, most of what’s here—intricately carved stone grave markers, vases, jewelry, and statue fragments—is pretty dull. One item, however, makes a visit worth considering: a large vase (dead center along the back wall) clearly showing the Trojan Horse filled with Greek soldiers sporting gleeful archaic smiles, and cartoon-like panels telling the story of the massacre that followed when they jumped out. Dating from roughly 670 B.C., it’s the oldest depiction of the Trojan Horse ever found. Unlike the museum’s other pieces, it wasn’t excavated from the Rinia graves, but found right here on Mykonos, discovered in 1961 by a (surely very surprised) farmer who’d set out to dig a well.
Cost and Hours: €2, April-Oct Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00, may close at 15:00 off-season, closed Mon year-round, tel. 22890-22325. Ask for the free brochure when you enter.
This tight but endearing collection traces the story of the local mercantile shipping industry. A desert isle of history in a sea of tourist kitsch, this little place takes its subject very seriously. In its four rooms you’ll find amphora jugs, model ships, a collection of stamps celebrating seafaring, and more. Don’t miss the tranquil garden, which displays the actual, original lighthouse from the island’s Cape Armenistis, as well as replicas of ancient sailors’ gravestones. The good English descriptions offer a fine history lesson for those willing to read them.
Cost and Hours: €4, April-Oct daily 10:30-13:00 & 18:30-21:00, closed Nov-March, Enoplon Dynameon 10, tel. 22890-22700.
Adjacent to the Maritime Museum (and part of the Folklore Museum), this is a typical middle-class Mykonian house dating from the late 19th century, complete with original furnishings and artwork.
Cost and Hours: €2, April-Sept Mon-Sat 18:30-21:30, possibly Sun 7:00-21:00, closed Oct-March, tel. 22890-22390.
Housed in a typically Cycladic former sea captain’s residence just up the bluff from the harbor, this museum displays a random mix of traditional folk items from around the island, as well as a typical kitchen and bedroom.
Cost and Hours: Free, April-Sept Mon-Sat 16:30-20:30, closed Sun, closed Oct-March, tel. 22890-22591.
Mykonos’ array of beaches rivals that of any Greek island. Each beach seems to specialize in a different niche: family-friendly or party; straight, gay, or mixed; nude or clothed; and so on. (Keep in mind that in Greece, even “family-friendly” beaches have topless sunbathers.) Get local advice to find the one that suits your beach-bum preferences, or choose from one of the options listed here (all of my suggestions are within a 15- to 20-minute bus or scooter/ATV ride of town).
To connect the beaches, you’ll drive up and down over the steep dusty, dirty, desolate spine of this arid island. You can also connect many of these beaches (including Psarou, Platis Gialos, Paradise, and Super Paradise) by regular shuttle boat.
All of these beaches have comfortable lounge chairs with umbrellas out on the sand. Figure around €10-15 for two chairs that share an umbrella (or half that for one chair). Just take a seat—they’ll come by to collect money. Be warned that in peak season (July and especially Aug), all beaches are very crowded, and it can be difficult to find an available seat.
Mykonos’ beaches are lined with cafés and tavernas, with typical Greek-island menus...sometimes functional, sometimes surprisingly good. These can offer a welcome break from the sun.
This remote-feeling patch of sand—my favorite beach on the island—is tucked behind a mountain ridge, and best gives you the feeling of being on a castaway isle. You’ll enjoy views across to the important isle of Delos. From Mykonos town go to Ornos, then head toward Kapari; on your way down the hill, turn off on the left at the low-profile beach signs (one directs you to Πύλη, one of the restaurants on the beach). You’ll drop down the road to an idyllic Robinson Crusoe spot where a few restaurants share a sandy beach.
For the even more secluded Kapari beach, continue down the road past the Agios Ioannis turnoff, then swing right at the white church.
Easy to reach since it’s in a sizeable town in the middle of the island, this very family-friendly beach is also one of the more functional (and least memorable) of those I list. The whole place has an unpretentious charm.
These two beaches, along the next cove to the east of Ornos, are much more densely developed. At each one a tight line of hotels arcs along the top of a crowded patch of sand. Psarou is considered a somewhat exclusive, favorite retreat of celebrities, while Platis Gialos feels more geared toward families (the far end from the bus stop/parking is less claustrophobic).
This famous “meat-market” beach is a magnet for partiers in the Aegean, and even more of a destination than the other beaches listed here. Located at the southern tip of the island, Paradise (a.k.a. Kalamopodi) is presided over by hotels that run party-oriented bars for young beachgoers—perfect if you want to dance in the sand all night to the throbbing beat with like-minded backpackers from around the world. As you approach, the last stretch is through thick, high grasses, giving the place an air of secrecy; then you’ll pass long rows of lockers before popping out at the party.
The next cove over hosts Super Paradise (Plintri) beach, which has eclipsed the original as the premier party beach on the island.
Mykonos is an expensive place to overnight—especially in peak season (roughly mid-July through mid-August, sometimes extending all the way from mid-June to mid-September). During these premium times, even “budget” hotels dramatically increase their rates...which means you should lower your value-for-money expectations. If you can come just before or after this busy period, you can save more than half. If you do come in peak season, book as far ahead as possible—that’s when most of the smaller hotels get filled up with their repeat customers, here on their annual visit. Should you show up without a reservation, try the room-finding service near the bus stop at the Old Port; expect to pay at least €80 for a basic double that may not be in the most central location.
In this party town, nighttime noise—dance clubs, people carousing in the streets, and so on—is epidemic; plan to wear earplugs, and if you’re a light sleeper, try requesting a hotel’s quietest room. I’ve tried to recommend places on streets that are less raucous than the norm, but they’re also very central, so no promises.
$$ Hotel Carbonaki is a family-run hotel near the top of town, with 22 nicely appointed rooms around an oasis courtyard with a Jacuzzi. It’s the most inviting of the places I’ve found in this price range (late July-mid-Aug: Sb-€130, Db-€168; early July and late Aug: Sb-€110, Db-€132; June and most of Sept: Sb-€88, Db-€105; late Sept-May: Sb-€55, Db-€66; breakfast-€10, free Wi-Fi, Panachrantou 23, tel. 22890-24124, www.carbonaki.gr, info@carbonaki.gr, Theodore and the Rousounelos family).
$$ Elena Hotel has 30 modern rooms, helpful staff, and a pleasant veranda lounge/breakfast area with a bit of a sea view. Their official prices are rather high, so try negotiating a lower rate (July-mid-Sept: Db-€180; late May-June: Db-€150; mid-Sept-late May: Db-€110; €20-30 more for sea-view room, free Wi-Fi and guest computer, Rohari street, tel. 22890-23457, elena.reserve-online.net, info@elena-hotel.gr).
$$ The Matogianni Hotel offers trendy pizzazz at reasonable prices. Hiding on a quiet lane near the harborfront, it boasts a friendly staff and an expansive front porch filled with wicker chairs (Db-€100-160 in high season, much lower off-season, ground-floor rooms about €20 cheaper, price depends on demand and length of stay—email or call for best rates, cash preferred, free Wi-Fi in lobby and some rooms, Matogianni street, tel. 22890-22217, www.matogianni.gr, info@matogianni.gr).
$$ Fresh Hotel’s 12 earth-tone rooms, some with balconies, are thoroughly modern, with posh bathrooms. While it hardly has any public spaces, its sleek garden restaurant (which can be a little noisy) serves as an ersatz lounge (late July-late Aug: Db-€160-180, rest of summer: Db-€100-140, May-June: Db-€60-120, off-season: Db-€53-80, €10 less without breakfast, free Wi-Fi, closed Dec-Feb, Kalogera 31, tel. 22890-24670, www.hotelfreshmykonos.com, info@hotelfreshmykonos.com).
$$ Terra Maria’s rooms are a tad overpriced in high season, but still a decent option, with a pleasant white-on-white decor (high season: Db-€160-170, off-season: Db as low as €50 off-season, €20-30 extra for ground-floor rooms that share Jacuzzi patio, breakfast-€7.50, free Wi-Fi, Kalogera 18, tel. 22890-24212, www.terramariahotel.com, e.mykonos@terramariahotel.com).
$ Hotel Philippi has 14 rooms huddled around a garden in the heart of the Old Town (high season: Db-€125, mid-season: Db-€90, low season: Db-€70, rates flex with size of room and demand—and are fairly soft off-season, small breakfast-€3.50, full breakfast-€8, free Wi-Fi, closed Nov-March, Kalogera 25, tel. 22890-22294, www.philippihotel.com, chriko@otenet.gr, Chris).
The twisting streets of the Old Town are lined with tourist-oriented restaurants. Don’t look for good values here—Mykonos is expensive. With few exceptions, little distinguishes one place from another; simply choose the spot with the menu and ambience that appeal to you: with a sea view, out on a busy pedestrian lane, or in a charming garden courtyard.
The many tavernas and cafés that face the sandy harbor are touristy and overpriced, but it’s hard to argue with their appeal. Consider enjoying an iced coffee or frappé—if not a full meal—from this comfortable perch, which offers the best people-watching (and sometimes cat- and pelican-watching) in town. The harborfront has the workaday action, while the places in Little Venice are more romantic—especially at sunset. A few steps inland, tucked in the town’s winding back lanes, are countless charming restaurants filling hidden gardens under trellises of bougainvillea. Take mental notes as you explore by day, then come back to the place that best suits your fancy.
A few less touristy places are worth seeking out. Inside cozy little To Maereio (τό Μαερειό), in-the-know diners choose from a small but reasonably priced, inventive menu that includes some Mykonian specialties (opens at 19:00 for dinner only, little outside seating, near Hotel Philippi at Kalogera 16, tel. 22890-28825). Your top bet for seafood is Fish Tavern Kounelas, where they grill the fresh fish right out on the tiny alley (opens at 18:00 for dinner only, near St. Monis Square—look for blue-and-white KOUNELAS signs, tel. 22890-28220). Komninos Traditional Healthy Flavors sells baklava, savory pies, and other homemade treats to go (long hours daily, 30 yards off Taxi Square on Polykandrioti).
For ferry tips and ferry-company contact info, see here.
By Boat to Piraeus (Athens): There is likely one fast boat daily (but confirm, especially Jan-March): 3 hours, €50-60. Slow ferry: 1/day, additional overnight ferry possible, 6 hours, €30-40. Boats leave from the New Port, about a mile north of town (get there by bus—2/hour, €1.60; or taxi—€5-10 from Taxi Square).
By Boat to Other Islands: Boats to other islands leave from the Old Port—check at travel agencies along the harborfront for exact departure times. Boats to Santorini generally leave twice a day in summer, stopping en route at two or three other islands (2.5 hours, €50).
Popular as Mykonos is today, it was just another island centuries ago, and the main attraction was next door: the island of Delos, worth ▲. In antiquity, Delos lived several lives: as one of the Mediterranean’s most important religious sites, as the “Fort Knox” of Greek city-states, and as one of the ancient world’s busiest commercial ports. Its importance ranked right up there with Athens, Delphi, or Olympia. Today the island is a ghost town—only ruins and a humble museum remain. Highlights of your visit include the much-photographed lion statues, some nice floor mosaics, the view from Mt. Kynthos, and a windswept setting pockmarked with foundations that hint at Delos’ rich history.
Cost and Hours: €5 admission, plus cost of the boat trip (see below); open Tue-Sun from the arrival of the first boat to the departure of the last one (roughly 9:30-15:00), closed Mon; tel. 22890-23413.
Warning: Delos is an uninhabited island with virtually no shade and only a small museum and café. Wear good shoes, and bring sun protection and plenty of water.
Getting There: Delos is reachable by a 30-minute boat ride from Mykonos. Boats depart Mykonos in the morning from the pier extending straight out from the Old Town; buy the €17 round-trip ticket at the little kiosk at the base of the pier (Tue-Sun, generally departing Mykonos at 9:00, 10:00, and 11:00, and returning from Delos at 12:15 or 12:30, 13:30, and either 14:30 or 15:00; no boats Mon). Specific times can change significantly, however, depending on weather and cruise-ship arrivals and departures, so be sure to check locally, especially outside peak season. While the boats are operated by three different outfits, they all cost the same and honor one another’s tickets.
Tours: Local guides meet arriving boats (€10 for a 1-1.5 hour tour—you’ll need more time to actually hike around the site and see the museum). Travel agencies in Mykonos town sell package excursions that include the boat, museum entry, and a guided tour (overpriced at roughly €40, though tours last longer than those offered by on-site guides).
Services: A small building next to the museum sells coffee, juice, and basic snacks. Free WCs are in the museum.
Length of This Tour: Most visitors find that 1.5-2 hours on the island is plenty to wander the site and see the museum.
(See “Delos” map, here.)
• From the boat dock, walk to the entrance, buy your ticket, pick up the helpful included map, and enter the gate.
Pause and survey the site. The commercial harbor was to your right, and the sacred harbor to your left. Ahead and to the right are the foundations of shops and homes that once constituted one of the Aegean’s finest cities. Standing above those ruins is Mount Kynthos, its hillsides littered with temple remains. The Agora of the Competaliasts—one of the main squares in town—is straight ahead (with the museum building poking up behind). The religious area (with the temples of Apollo) is ahead and to the left, at the end of the Sacred Way. And far to the left was the Sacred Lake (now a patch of trees), overlooked by the iconic row of lions.
• Start by wandering through the long rows of foundations on your right. You can circle back to these at the end—after summiting the mountain and winding down past the theater—but it’s a good idea to poke around now in case you run out of steam later.
Residential and Commercial District: Most of these remains were either homes or shops. In the second century B.C. (when Delos was a bustling commercial port), the streets were lined with some 3,000 shops where you could buy just about anything, and the hillsides above were covered with the elaborate homes of wealthy merchants and shippers. Delos was considered to be the most important commercial center in the known world. (One of its primary commodities was human beings—it was a major center in the ancient slave trade.) The city was cosmopolitan, with 30,000 residents and distinct ethnic groups, each with its own linguistic and cultural neighborhood (Greeks, Syrians, Beirutis, Italians, and so on). Remains of these same neighborhoods can still be seen today.
Poke into some of the house foundations. Homes were generally organized around a central courtyard, above a giant cistern. Look for fragments of elaborate mosaic floors (intact portions are on display inside the museum), as well as marble structures that once decorated the place. The city even had a surprisingly advanced sewer system. Because wood was rare on the arid Cycladic Islands, most buildings were constructed from dry-stone walls; wood was a status symbol, used only by the wealthiest to show off. Delos had some of the biggest homes of ancient Greece, not necessarily because of wealth, but because they could build big here without fear of the devastating earthquakes that plagued other locations. The Greeks attributed this to divine intervention (modern seismologists have found that Delos sits away from major fault lines).
• Now head toward the agora that’s near the ticket building. This is the...
Agora of the Competaliasts: This was the main market square of the Roman merchants who worshipped the deities called lares compitales, who kept watch over the crossroads. This is not the agora, but one of many agoras (marketplaces) on Delos—a reminder that several different communities coexisted in this worldly trading city.
• Just above the upper-left corner of this agora, the Sacred Way leads off to the left. Follow the same path ancient pilgrims walked as they approached the temples of Apollo. Along the left side of the road runs the long ledge of the pediment (with recognizable triglyphs) from the Stoa of Philip V (what we see here as the “bottom” actually ran along the top of the building). At the end of the Sacred Way is the...
Religious Center: The Sanctuary of Apollo and, beyond that, the Sanctuary of Artemis, both consisted of several temples and other ceremonial buildings. Unfortunately, these once-great buildings are in near-total ruin. In its day, Apollo’s sanctuary had three large, stern Doric temples lined with columns. The biggest temple was nearly 100 feet long. The nearby Porinos Naos served as the treasury of the Delian League. Other treasuries once held untold riches—offerings to the gods brought by devout pilgrims.
• Follow the route to the right, then left, then left again around the Sanctuary of Apollo. Before heading off to the right down the main path, pause to find the giant marble pedestal that once held the...
Colossus Apollo Statue: The 35-foot statue (seventh century B.C.) was a gift from the Naxians and was carved from a single block of marble. It’s long gone now, but a few bits of its fingers are on display in the museum.
• A little way down the path, beyond the Sanctuary, pass the foundations that surround the spacious Agora of the Italians (on the right) on the way to the former...
Sacred Lake: This was supposedly the source of Zeus’ seed. When Leto was about to give birth to Zeus’ children (according to the “Hymn to Delian Apollo,” attributed to Homer), she cried out: “Delos, if you would be willing to be the abode of my son Apollo and make him a rich temple, your people will be well-fed by strangers bringing offerings. For truly your own soil is not rich.” The Sacred Lake was drained by French archaeologists to prevent the spread of bacterial disease.
• Overlooking the lake are the famous...
Lions of the Naxians: This row of seven sphinx-like lion statues (originally there were 12) is the main, iconic image of this site. These are replicas, but five of the original statues (seventh century B.C.) are in the museum. One of the originals was stolen by the Venetians, “repaired” with an awkwardly too-big head, and still stands in front of Venice’s Arsenal building.
• Walk through the oval-shaped Sacred Lakebed and hike up toward the museum. Just before the museum, a path detours to the left far into the distance, where you could detour to find the remains of the gymnasium, stadium, and the Jewish synagogue. Olympics-style games were held at Delos’ stadium every five years. Like the more famous games at Olympia and Delphi, these were essentially religious festivals to the gods, particularly Dionysus. Pilgrims from across the Greek world gathered to celebrate with sports, song contests, theatrical performances, and general merrymaking.
Make your way to the...
Museum: This scantily described collection includes statuary, vases, and other items. Inside the door is a model of the site in its heyday. Most of the site’s best pieces are in the National Archaeological Museum in Athens, but a few highlights remain, including a beautifully carved stone table, five of the original Lions of the Naxians (in a room of their own), the fingers of Colossus Apollo (in the central hall, on the right), and—perhaps the best part—several bits of striking floor mosaics.
For more body parts of other gods, exit the museum straight out, then go the left to the Monument of Carystius (once part of the Sanctuary of Dionysus), with its large (broken-off) penis-on-a-pillar statues.
• If you have time before the boat leaves (allow about 45 minutes), hike up the hill toward more remains of houses and temples. Hardy travelers can huff all the way up to...
Mount Kynthos: At 370 feet, the island’s highest point feels even taller on a hot day. To ancient Greeks, this conical peak looked like the spot from which Poseidon had pulled this mysterious isle up from the deep. Up here are the remains of the Temple of Zeus and Athena. As you observe the chain of islands dramatically swirling around Delos, you can understand why most experts believe that the Cycladic Islands got their name from the way they circle (or cycle around) this oh-so-important islet.
• Head back downhill, toward the theater and harbor. On your way down you’ll pass the House of the Dolphins, with mosaics of cupids riding dolphins, and the House of the Masks, with a beautiful mosaic of a tambourine-playing Dionysus riding a leopard. As you return to the boat, you’ll see the remains of a giant cistern and the 5,500-seat theater...starring a 360-degree view of the Cycladic Islands.
