9

Housewarming:

12 Patterns Using Handspun Yarn

Sweet Omega Möbius

Designed by Lynne Vogel

This romantic Möbius wrap combines knitting and crochet for feather-light drape and face-framing grace. A central lace panel sports gently undulating stripes of color, while knitted surround and crocheted edging break colors up into random areas of solid and stripe.

Finished Measurements

Fiber

Yarn Description

Yarn Amount

Yardage for Each Section of Pattern

Gauge

Needles/Hooks

Other Supplies

Spinning Notes

I used a Ladybug wheel with standard whorl on a larger setting. I spun from handpainted top, split lengthwise into eight equal sections. I was careful to keep the fibers of each color band aligned with each other so that the colors would come out crisp and clear; short forward draw helps to do this. I spun it fairly fast so that I didn’t introduce much twist. I think, however, this pattern still would look great in a yarn with more twist, or even an active twist yarn. It would have a very different look, of course. I spun as much for feel as for looks. When knitted loosely on large needles, a singles yarn will hold its shape better than a plied one — at least mine does. I spun smooth, but allowed some natural irregularities to remain, as I like them. A minimal amount of twist helps with soft hand and drape, which this piece has in spades.

Because my spinning from bobbin to bobbin is not exactly the same, I weighed each skein and measured it for yardage. I divided the yardage by the weight in grams to give me yards per gram, which aided me in selecting the heavier skeins for the knitted portion and the finer skeins for crochet. The higher the number of yards per gram, the finer the yarn. There was an overall difference of 0.25 yards per gram — not a lot, but it’s noticeable. Since crochet is heavier than knitting, I used the finer grist to crochet so that the Crocheted Edging would not be overly heavy. I had enough yarn that I didn’t even have to touch the finest skein. I used the heaviest skein in the Knitted Surround and the second heaviest in the Center Panel.

Knitting Notes

This pattern is worked in three sections: Begin with a Center Panel worked flat with chain selvedge. Join the panel, end to end, with a Möbius twist (see Center Panel), and pick up and knit the continuous edge of the Center Panel to work a Knitted Surround followed by a crocheted edging. When it’s time to bind off the Knitted Surround, use a single crochet bind off, which becomes the first round of crochet. It is a very flexible bind off and helps to make a seamless transition between the knitting and the crochet. The center panel is a nod to Rita Buchanan; the knitted surround, a nod to Cat Bordhi.

A few words about gauge in knitting and crochet: I knit to needle size, but I’m a loose crocheter, so I need to go down a hook size or two from the knitting needle I used. Your gauge could be very different from mine (for instance, you could be a loose knitter and a tight crocheter), so experiment. My crochet gauge gives a very slight flare to the edge of the Möbius, and this helps the wrap flow and drape. Getting the correct gauge for both the crochet and knitting is more important than matching the size of needle and hook listed in the pattern.

Pattern Stitches

Continuous Flow

(worked flat with a chain selvedge over 26 stitches)

Row 1: Slip 1 knitwise, k2, k2tog, k5, yo, k3, yo, k5, ssk, k6.

Row 2 (and all even-numbered rows through Row 12): Slip 1 purlwise, purl to end.

Row 3: Slip 1 knitwise, k1, k2tog, k5, yo, k5, yo, k5, ssk, k5.

Row 5: Slip 1 knitwise, k2tog, k5, yo, k7, yo, k5, ssk, k4.

Row 7: Slip 1 knitwise, k5, k2tog, k5, yo, k3, yo, k5, ssk, k3.

Row 9: Slip 1 knitwise, k4, k2tog, k5, yo, k5, yo, k5, ssk, k2.

Row 11: Slip 1 knitwise, k3, k2tog, k5, yo, k7, yo, k5, ssk k1.

Slanting Eyelet Pattern A (knit)

(worked in the round over a multiple of 5 stitches)

Rounds 1, 3, and 5: Yo, k2tog, k3.

Rounds 2, 4, and 6: Knit.

Slanting Eyelet Pattern B (purl)

(worked in the round over a multiple of 5 stitches)

Rounds 1, 3, and 5: Yo, ssp, p3.

Rounds 2, 4, and 6: Purl.

Single Crochet Bind Off

Using a crochet hook, pull a loop through the first stitch of the knitted round, sliding the stitch off the needle. Insert the hook into the next knit stitch, pull through a loop, and let the stitch slide off the needle. * Yarnover the crochet hook and pull a loop through both stitches. Repeat from * until 1 stitch remains. Join the round by working a slip stitch into the first crochet stitch of the round.

Knitting the Shawl

Center Panel

Knitted Surround

Crocheting The Edging

Finishing

Maya Cardigan

Designed by Kirsten Kapur

Worked in one piece from the bottom up, this romantic cardigan is knit loosely to take advantage of the drape of the soft fiber. When spinning for this project, keep in mind that heavier-weight yarns knit to the same gauge as finer yarns require more yardage. The hems and front edges feature a unique eyelet pattern that highlights handspun yarn without being fussy. An open neckline and three-quarter sleeves will take you from early spring to late fall, and work equally well with jeans and a T-shirt or a flirty dress.

Sizes

Finished Measurements

Fiber

Yarn Description

Yarn Amount

Gauge

Needles

Other Supplies

Spinning Notes

From Carol Knox, spinner:

This was beautiful fiber but a challenge to spin. Silk is a long fiber and camel is very short, so I needed a drafting style that allowed for a good integration of each fiber, both to make sure they were secured in the yarn and to bring out the shine of silk and the downy softness of the camel. I tried a variety of worsted and woolen techniques to achieve a yarn that would meet the specifications. I finally settled on spinning it from the fold with a supported long draw, giving it a bit of a rustic look with a soft smooth hand. The fiber needed a lot of fluffing and preparation before spinning: I broke it into 4" to 6" lengths and fluffed and loosened the top.

Pattern Stitches

Cluster Stitch

K3, pass the first of the 3 stitches just knit over the next 2 stitches.

Eyelet Pattern Worked Flat

(multiple of 3 stitches plus 2)

Row 1 (RS): K3, *yo, Cluster Stitch; repeat from * to last 2 stitches, k2.

All WS Rows: Purl.

Row 3: K2, * Cluster Stitch, yo; repeat from * to last 3 stitches, k3.

Eyelet Pattern in the Round

(multiple of 3 stitches)

Round 1: *Yo, Cluster Stitch; repeat from * to end.

Rounds 2 and 4: Knit.

Round 3: K2, pass the last stitch of the previous round over the first 2 stitches of the round, yo, *Cluster Stitch, yo; repeat from * to end. Knit the first stitch of the next round, and transfer it to the end of the round. Mark new beginning of round.

Knitting the Cardigan

Bottom Edge

Eyelet Border

Body

Sleeves

(make 2)

Yoke

Raglan Decreases

Neck

Button Bands

Left Front
Right Front

Finishing

Jillian Shawl

Designed by Rosemary (Romi) Hill

This lovely crescent-shaped shawl is designed to show off the gorgeous variations in handdyed and handspun yarn. The simple garter stitch top lets your yarn shine, while the beautiful knit-on lace edging provides a sophisticated finish.

Finished Measurements

Fiber

Yarn Description

Yarn Amount

Gauge

Needle

Other Supplies

Abbreviations

Spinning Notes

The mohair/silk was lovely to spin. I used a short forward draw and lower twist because the yarn was for lace and I wanted it to be more drapey than mohair naturally is. I used a commercial fingering-weight yarn to give me an idea of wpi for this yarn.

Knitting the Shawl

The Edging

Finishing

Weave in ends, and wash using wool wash. Remove excess water from shawl and block using T-pins and blocking wires. Stretch shawl tight, and pin each point of the edging. To assist the shawl in keeping its shape, dissolve a small amount of cornstarch in hot water (approximately 1⁄2 teaspoon of powder per quart of water) and use it to lightly spray the pinned shawl. (In humid climates, use commercial starch, rather than cornstarch.) When thoroughly dry, unpin and enjoy!

Lina Toe-Up Socks

Designed by Kate Atherley

These toe-up socks in a simple pattern, interesting but not too interesting to knit, are suitable for a broad variety of colorways. The construction and patterning allow easy, on-the-go adjustments for variability in both yarn and feet. The sock has a reinforced gusset-and-flap heel for durability and improved fit.

Sizes

Finished Measurements

Fiber

Yarn Description

Yarn Amount

Gauge

Needles

Other Supplies

Abbreviations

Spinning Notes

From Carol Knox, spinner:

I had more trouble getting this to make a sock-weight yarn than I expected; it ended up being a little heavier than a standard sock yarn. Sometimes down fibers are like that, as they may have more second cuts or just shorter fiber over all. I always buy a little extra for sampling to get exactly the yarn I want. I spun it supported long draw from the end of the roving in a woolen style, letting the takeup on my wheel pull the fibers and allowing twist into the drafting triangle. 

Knitting Notes

Working Wrapped Stitches Together with Their Wraps

When working a right-side row: With the tip of the right needle, scoop up the wrap from underneath, put the needle into the stitch, and knit the wrap and the stitch together. (Make sure you come back out through both the stitch and the wrap.)

When working a wrong-side row: Use the tip of the right needle to scoop up the wrap from underneath on the right side of the work (the opposite from the side you are facing), and bring the wrap up onto the needle; purl the wrap and the stitch together.

Cable Rib Motif

Pattern Stitches

Cable Rib

(worked in the round over 12 stitches)

Round 1: P1, k2, p1, k4, p1, k2, p1.

Round 2: P1, k2, p1, c2R, c2L, p1, k2, p1.

Eye of Partridge

(worked flat over a multiple of 2 stitches)

Row 1 (RS): (Slip 1 purlwise, k1) across.

Rows 2 and 4 (WS): Purl.

Row 3 (RS): (K1, slip 1 purlwise) across.

Knitting the Socks

Toe

The following instructions refer to the start of the round and the center of the round; place removable stitch markers in the fabric or arrange your stitches on your needles so that you can identify them.

Foot

Pattern is now established. The first half of the round forms the instep; the second half is the sole.

Gusset

Heel Turn

Heel Flap

Here you start the cable and rib patterning on the back-of-leg stitches. Start the pattern on the same round as you work on the instep.

Ribbing

Finishing