Spice Trip

My take on a margarita tastes even better accompanied by these brilliant snacks. You don’t always have to think of chilli as a spice or condiment – it can be the main attraction, like these chilli poppers. Great for a party or just as a pick-me-up.

SERVES FOUR

PREP & COOK: 20 MINS

For the spicy cashews:

300g (11oz) cashew nuts

1 lemongrass stem, tough outer layer discarded

1 red chilli

1 tbsp sugar

sea salt

First make the spicy cashews. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas 4. Line a baking tray with greaseproof paper. Arrange the nuts on the tray and place in the oven for 5 minutes until warmed through. Remove from the oven and turn it down to 150°C/300°F/gas 2.

Meanwhile, in a pestle and mortar, bash together the lemongrass and red chilli until you have a coarse paste. Transfer to a large bowl, then add the sugar and a generous pinch of salt. Mix well, then toss in the warmed cashews and mix to coat.

Tip the nuts back onto the baking tray and return to the oven for 5 minutes until the coating has hardened slightly. Leave to cool and serve with an extra sprinkling of salt, if necessary.

For the chilli poppers:

2 egg whites

170ml (6fl oz) sparkling water

150g (5oz) plain flour

120g (4½oz) drained pickled chillies (see here for recipe), green or red or a mixture

vegetable oil, for frying

sea salt

To make the chilli poppers, first whisk the egg whites until you have stiff peaks. In a separate bowl, pour in the water and whisk in the flour until you have a paste. Fold the whisked egg whites into the flour mixture and season with a little salt.

Heat 5cm (2in) of oil in a large, deep, heavy-based pan over a medium heat. Test the heat of the oil with a chunk of bread; when it sizzles and turns golden after 30 seconds, the oil is hot enough. Dip the chillies into the batter, then very carefully lower them, one by one, into the hot oil (you will need to do this in batches). When they begin to turn golden (about 2 minutes), remove with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper. Serve with a sprinkling of salt.

For the salty chilli margarita:

100ml (3½fl oz) tequila

50ml (2fl oz) shot Cointreau or triple sec

50ml (2fl oz) lime juice

a large pinch of dried chilli flakes, bashed with 4 tsp sea salt

To serve:

ice cubes or crushed ice

wedges of fresh lime

4 martini glasses

To make the margarita, combine all the liquids over ice in a cocktail shaker or a clean jam jar and shake vigorously for about a minute.

Prepare your glasses by rubbing a cut piece of lime around the rim and rolling the rims in a saucer filled with the chilli-salt mixture. Carefully pour in the cocktail and serve immediately.

This is really easy to do at home. To sterilise the jars, wash them in warm soapy water, then rinse well and place in a hot oven (220°C/425°F/gas 7) for 10 minutes, or fill with boiling water and leave for 10 minutes, then dry.

PREP: 10 MINS

250g (9oz) table salt

30 chillies, red, green or a mixture (use the standard large green and red chillies you find in any supermarket)

For the pickling liquid:

1 litre (1¾ pints) red wine vinegar

5 tsp table salt

1 tsp coriander seeds

3 bay leaves

2 tbsp sugar

Boil the salt in 1 litre (1¾ pints) water. Leave to cool, then drop in your chillies and cover with a plate to keep them submerged. Leave to brine overnight. The following morning, drain the chillies and discard the brine. Prick a few holes in each chilli, using the tip of a sharp knife and divide between sterilised jars.

Bring the pickling liquid ingredients and 1 litre (1¾ pints) of water to boil in a large pan over a high heat then pour over the chillies, filling each jar to the brim. Leave to cool, then serve or seal and store for up to 4 weeks.

CHILLI RULES

There are hundreds of different varieties of chilli: from the frighteningly hot naga that is barely classifiable as food, to the wonderful delicate dried ancho whose mild apricot-like flavour would please even the staunchest of chilliphobes – it’s so fruity you can almost put it on your muesli. And there are loads of wonderful different Mexican chillies that are easy to get online. They’re great for adding smoky depth and sweetness to almost any cuisine, not just Mexican food: a chipotle chucked into a tomato sauce totally transforms it. Try adding a pinch of dried chilli flakes to all sorts of recipes that you wouldn’t expect to find them in, from Italian soups to English stews – and you’ll find they don’t taste hot at all, just a bit fuller, a bit more interesting and a lot more delicious. Chillies have a magical power that quite simply makes food taste better.

FRESH, DRIED OR POWDERED?

Fresh chillies – have a zingy fresh citrus flavour

Cayenne pepper – finely ground hot chilli varieties, includes the seeds and core making it very fiery.

Chilli powder – milder than cayenne, more coarsely ground, doesn’t include seeds. The chilli powders in your spice rack will be labelled mild or hot depending on the heat and flavour of the chillies used. For best results, make your own by dry frying whole dried chillies in a heavy pan, and grinding in a pestle and mortar.

Paprika – made from the mildest chillies, the core and seeds are removed first, then the flesh is dried and powdered. Its flavour is released by heat, but because it contains a lot of sugar it can burn easily. Best to fry your onions and garlic, turn down the heat and then add the paprika.

STORAGE

Fresh chilli has a long shelf life; you can store peppers in the fridge for several weeks.

Dried chillies can be kept in an air-tight container (or at least ‘moisture-tight’) and away from strong light for up to a year. They will lose their sparkle eventually, but will retain their flavour and colour much better than ground chilli powder.

Chilli powders slowly lose their flavour and colour after a few months. Store in the dark.