There are two types of paper piecing – English paper piecing and foundation paper piecing – but they are very different techniques. English paper piecing is done by wrapping the fabric around paper templates and then using tiny hand stitches to sew the individual templates together. The templates can be removed intact at the end of a project and reused many times. Foundation paper piecing is where fabric is sewn directly onto a paper foundation. The stitching is done on a sewing machine using tiny stitches that perforate and weaken the paper. When the sewing is complete, the paper is peeled away, leaving a beautiful piece of patchwork. Each time that you sew a foundation paper-pieced pattern you need a new paper foundation, as the original one is destroyed in the sewing process.
I work purely with foundation paper piecing. Any time that I mention paper piecing in this book, it is specifically foundation paper piecing that I am referring to. Although some foundation paper-pieced patterns will work for English paper piecing, I am pretty sure that the patterns in this book will not. There are too many tiny pieces that would be awkward for English paper piecing.
In both forms of paper piecing, the paper is there to provide stability. It stops fabric from warping (even when sewn on the bias). The paper also allows pieces to be sewn that are considerably smaller and more awkwardly shaped than would normally be considered in quilting.
When I first started quilting, I was at a stage in my life when I needed a challenge. I noticed that people around me shuddered with fear at the mention of foundation paper piecing and decided that it sounded like the perfect challenge for me.
I’m not going to lie, there was frustration in the early days, but as I developed a methodology that worked for me I also gained a fascination for the technique. I discovered that there are many different ways to foundation paper piece and that the reason so many people dislike paper piecing is that they have not found a piecing technique that suits their personality. The method that I describe in this book works for me, but I am realistic enough to acknowledge that it may not work for everyone. If you find that you are making mistake after mistake, then the chances are that a different technique would work better for you. That’s absolutely ok with me. Go and search the internet for tutorials and keep trying. I would prefer that you try somebody else’s technique than give up on paper piecing completely. We all have different strengths and weaknesses and our brains work in different ways. Some people love to be as precise as they possibly can be and to minimize fabric wastage by accurately pre-cutting all their fabric. Other people prefer to save their sanity and cut their fabric a bit more generously. Neither of these methods is right or wrong – they just work better for some people than for others. Even if you are an experienced paper piecer, I suggest that you read through the method section of the book as you may be able to pick up a few tips. Sometimes one or two small tweaks to your technique can make all the difference to your enjoyment of foundation paper piecing.
This section describes my method for foundation paper piecing, so refer to it when making the projects. All patterns referred to can be downloaded from: http://ideas.sewandso.co.uk/patterns.
It is important to check your printer settings every time that you print a foundation paper-pieced pattern, as failure to do so can result in your finished quilt having the wrong dimensions. The exact wording used in print preferences settings can vary greatly depending on your printer, the software you are using and many other factors. It is difficult to say exactly which settings you should use. You need to print using ‘print 100%’ or ‘Actual Size’. Do not use ‘Shrink to Size’ or ‘Fit to Page’. Where possible, open files in Adobe Reader, as this gives clear, unambiguous printing options. The pattern pieces have been formatted for Letter size paper, but will print on A4 without issue, on condition that the correct printer settings are used. A 1in square has been printed on the first page of each individual pattern. Always measure this before you start sewing to check whether your pattern has accidentally been reduced in size.
One of the fun things about paper-pieced patterns is that it is relatively easy to alter the dimensions of a pattern. That said, it is worth considering that not every pattern should be altered in size. There is often a very good reason that a designer has decided to make a pattern a specific size. By reducing the size of patterns, pieces can sometimes become ridiculously small and by increasing the size, pieces can become rather unwieldy to sew. As a result, it may be that patterns that have been reduced or enlarged in size must be altered slightly to accommodate this change.
The table below gives an overview of the percentages that you can use to alter the size of a block. For example, if you want to enlarge a 4in block to a 10in block, set the scale to 250% when printing or photocopying the pattern. If you want to decrease the size of an 8in block and turn it into a 6in block, set the scale to 75%. The basic equation for working out these numbers is: what you want (required block size) ÷ what you have (current block size) x 100.
There is one final step to take when changing the size of a pattern. Increasing or decreasing a pattern will alter the size of the whole paper foundation, including the 1⁄4in seam allowance. It is very important therefore to manually change the seam allowances back to 1⁄4in. When decreasing the size of a pattern, it may be necessary to cut the page and separate the pattern pieces before decreasing the size on a photocopier. In this way, you can leave enough room on the page to allow for enlarged seam allowances.
Each paper template has a 1⁄4in seam allowance around the edge and when you cut the template out, this is the line that you will cut along. Some paper templates are small enough to be printed on a single sheet of paper (see Photo 1). Some templates are so large that they span a few pages and will need to be glued together. It is important that you check the pattern instructions before gluing the templates, as sometimes it is best to wait until after the first few fabric pieces have been sewn before you completely glue them together. By waiting to construct your paper foundation, you make it easier to reach and sew small fabric pieces in the centre of the paper template. When gluing pieces together, lay the red dashed lines on top of each other. If you have positioned the pieces correctly, you will see that the lines of the pattern line up beautifully, as shown by the blue lines in Photos 2 and 3. I tend to use a stationery-grade glue stick to glue my papers together. Beware of using adhesive tape as it can melt when heated by an iron, leading to a nasty mess on your ironing board.
PHOTO 1
PHOTO 2
PHOTO 3
When you are ready to start paper piecing, you will need to reduce the length of your stitches. Stitch sizes can vary depending on the sewing machine, but for most machines aim for a stitch length between 1.5 and 2. The stitches should be close together, but not so close that they shred the paper. The small stitch length creates a line of small perforations along the paper, meaning that there is minimal strain placed on the stitches when the paper is torn away.
When discussing paper piecing, I often hear people comment that they find it confusing and ‘back-to-front’. The reason for this is that the paper templates show the pattern in reverse. The printed paper template is behind the sewing and faces backwards, thus it is in mirror image to the sewing that is being produced. While this can be a source of confusion to some, it is worth remembering that the actual process of sewing is no different to other kinds of patchwork. Place two pieces of fabric with right sides together and sew the seam. The only thing that is extra is a piece of paper and a printed line to give you guidance.
Refer to this section when foundation piecing the projects to remind you of the basic process. Red thread has been used in the photos shown in this section, so the stitches can be seen clearly.
Each paper piece is numbered. Start piecing from number one and work through all the numbers systematically until you are finished. When I teach paper piecing, I often find that the hardest aspect of piecing for people to get to grips with is the very first piece. The logic of it is just a little bit different and can seem confusing. Once past the first piece, the process is repetitive and it is a question of finding your groove. Whenever you cut fabric for paper piecing, make sure that it is approximately 1⁄2in larger than the printed shape on the paper foundation. You do not need to cut precisely. I tend to always cut rectangles of fabric and then I reuse the scraps later in my project to minimize wastage. Some people like to cut all their fabric before they piece. I like to keep making creative decisions all the way through my project, so I cut as I sew.
Place the paper foundation printed side down on the table or light box. Place the fabric for piece 1 right side up on top of the paper foundation. If you are not using a light box, hold the paper and fabric up to the light with the paper template towards you, so that you can clearly see the printed lines and the outlines of the fabric pieces. Ensure that the fabric overlaps the edges of piece 1 by at least 1⁄4in in all directions (Photo 4). If piece 1 is next to the printed seam allowance around the paper foundation, the fabric should also cover the seam allowance. When you are satisfied with the positioning of your fabric, place a pin to hold it in place. Try to ensure that the pin is far enough away from the line between piece 1 and 2, so it can stay in place while you are sewing the first seam.
PHOTO 4
Place the fabric for piece 2 right side down on top of fabric piece number 1 (Photo 5). Carefully lift the whole pile up to the light again (or use the light box) to check that the majority of the fabric is on top of piece 1, but that the edge overlaps the printed line between piece 1 and 2 by more than 1⁄4in. Check the position in one of the following ways.
PHOTO 5
Carefully manoeuvre your pile of fabric and paper into your sewing machine. Ensure that it is printed paper side up and that none of the fabrics move as you position it in the machine. If there is a corner of fabric that is in danger of flopping out of position and folding itself into the line of sewing, do not be scared to pin it to the paper template. You are going to sew down the line between piece 1 and piece 2 (Photo 6). It is important that you anchor your stitches so that they do not come undone when you remove the paper. There are a couple of ways to do this.
If the line that is being sewn starts or finishes by the 1⁄4in seam allowance, extend the line of stitches into the seam allowance. After you have sewn your seam, trim the tail of the thread to the paper.
PHOTO 6
Gently fold the fabric for piece 2 over (Photo 7). Hold it up to the light and ensure that it generously covers paper shape 2, allowing at least 1⁄4in seam allowances. If it doesn’t, carefully unpick. If it does, then unfold fabric piece 2, let it lie on top of piece 1 again. Do not press yet.
PHOTO 7
Ensuring that the two pieces of fabric that have just been sewn are lying facing each other, fold the paper back along the stitched lines so that the seam allowances are exposed. Place the ruler along the seam and trim the edges, allowing a 1⁄4in seam allowance. Photo 8 shows an Add-A-Quarter ruler being used, but a normal quilting ruler can be used.
PHOTO 8
Lay your paper flat again. When pressing the seams, use a dry iron. There are two reasons for this – steam can distort the fabric and paper, and can lead to printed paper losing its ink and smudging black marks all over your beautiful sewing. It is a good idea to set the seam when pressing (Photo 9). This is done by pressing the seam flat, on the back of the fabric in the position that you have just sewn it. The next step is to open the seam and press again from the front (Photo 10). You can gently finger press the seam open before you press, to ensure that the crease lands in the correct spot.
PHOTO 9
PHOTO 10
Repeat the basic process from Step 3 Align, until you have sewn all the fabric pieces to the paper foundation. Repeat this process on all of the paper foundations of the design. Once all the fabrics have been sewn to the paper template, trim the fabrics to the seam allowance (the outer line on each template). If it is essential that the finished block is exactly the right size, I recommend not trimming the outer edge of the block until all the sections have been sewn together. If you are in danger of forgetting this while you sew, then place a brightly coloured line in the paper seam allowance of the outer edge and this will serve as a memory aid.
We have now covered the basics of paper piecing, but there are definitely some aspects of the technique that take more practise than others. These are the things that make the difference between you enjoying paper piecing and wanting to throw your sewing across the room!
To achieve the level of detail that I want in my work, my patterns tend to have some pieces with awkward angles. Here is my advice on dealing with these.
1 Cut a piece of fabric that is at least 1⁄2in larger in all directions than the area you want to cover. Lay your paper template printed side up on your ironing board. Lay the fabric rectangle right side down on the printed side of the template. Ensure that it generously covers the section that you want to sew and that you have left enough fabric for seam allowances. Fold the fabric along the seam that you are going to sew and press (Photo 11). Take note of the position of the fabric in relation to the template (the dashed line on Photo 11 indicates the template edges). It is important to know how much fabric overhang there is at either end, as this will help you position the fabric correctly against the non-printed side of the template. You may choose to mark the ends of the section on the fabric with a fabric marker.
PHOTO 11
2 Now take the fabric and position it in situ against the non-printed side of the paper template (Photo 12). Remember that it will be placed right sides together with the fabric of the area adjacent to the area you are about to cover. Hold the paper foundation and the new fabric piece up to the light and check that the fold of the fabric follows the line that you are about to sew. When happy with the positioning, flick the fold of the fabric open (Photo 13) and then position the whole bundle in your sewing machine ready to sew (Photo 14). In cases where you are piecing an area next to the edge of the paper and the fabric that you are about to sew is visible around the edges of the paper template, it is possible to make a final check on fabric alignment. Look for the crease that was created when you pressed the fabric and check whether it is still in alignment with the printed line. If you look at Photo 14 you will see that the fabric needs to be moved a couple of millimetres to the right (see arrow).
PHOTO 12
PHOTO 13
PHOTO 14
3 Sew along the line with a large tacking (basting) stitch (Photo 15). Check whether the fabric piece has been orientated correctly. If not, unpick the stitches and try again. If it has been sewn correctly, resew the line using your normal small paper piecing stitches.
PHOTO 15
When sewing with directional prints (such as text prints), I tend to stop and think before I start sewing. Do I want the background to be fractured and haphazard with the print going in all directions? Or is it important to line the designs up neatly in a horizontal direction? I often take the haphazard approach, but there are definitely times, such as the Monarch Butterfly quilt, when it is worth making the extra effort to align a directional print accurately.
1 Lay the paper foundations out in their correct positions. Draw an arrow pointing straight up towards the upper edge of the paper. This arrow will act as a constant reminder as to where the top of the block lies. Now draw a horizontal line that can be used as a reference for accurate alignment (Photo 16).
PHOTO 16
2 Cut fabric generously, bearing its orientation in mind.
3 Lay the paper template print side up on the ironing board. Lay the fabric right side down over the area that you wish to sew. Use the drawn reference line to help orientate the fabric accurately. Fold the seam allowance along the line that you will sew. Press to create a nice clean edge.
4 Move the fabric to the non-printed side of the template. Hold paper and fabric up to the light and align the fold with the printed line. Sew using tacking (basting) stitches.
5 Check that the alignment is accurate and resew the seam using small stitches.
Large paper foundations can be difficult to deal with. It can be tricky to hold small pieces of fabric in position, reaching the small sections in the centre of the page can be tough and it can be virtually impossible to manoeuvre them all into the machine while keeping everything in position. It is important to read the project instructions before assembling your paper template. Often, it is easier to sew some of the fabric pieces before gluing the whole paper template together, as by so doing, many of the pieces become more accessible and easier to sew. I try not to fold my paper foundation, as folds and creases make it harder to manage. Pins are your friends, so don’t be afraid to pin fabric in position.
Large pieces of fabric can be tricky when paper piecing. They can warp, drag, pull away from the paper and generally be difficult to manage.
1 Make sure that you have a work surface that is big enough for you to lay the whole paper foundation flat and that there is enough space around your machine so your sewing is not obstructed. By so doing, it will become easier to judge the size of the fabric required and will help you to position it accurately.
2 Press all fabric pieces before sewing them. This is something that I do for all paper piecing, but it is especially important when dealing with large fabric pieces.
3 I strongly recommend that you use pins and or glue to help attach the fabric to the paper foundations. Another tip that can really help is to place a few large tacking (basting) stitches in the seam allowances (Photo 17). This will help to ensure that the fabric stays in the correct place.
PHOTO 17
4 When cutting your fabric, be more generous than you would be for small pieces. I admit that this will lead to the formation of extra fabric scraps, but you can reuse these in other areas of your block. If I am worried that I may run out of fabric, I will often start with the largest foundations, so that I can cut my fabric generously and then use the off-cuts in later, smaller sections of the pattern.
Areas of intense piecing with many small fabric pieces can easily become very bulky due to the build-up of layers of seam allowances. If this becomes a problem, it is possible to trim the seam allowances slightly narrower making them between 1⁄8in and 1⁄4in. This is not something that I do regularly, as I am slightly nervous about seams popping, but there are times when it is necessary, especially when I am confident that the fabric will be held in place by multiple seams. When the first two pieces of fabric to be sewn to a paper template are small, the stitches can sometimes rip away from the paper, leading to frustration and resewing. In such cases follow these simple steps.
1 It is important to be gentle. I would recommend that you do not pre-cut your fabric too accurately. By so doing, there will be minimal additional fabric wastage but you give yourself breathing space.
2 Be sure to use a pin to anchor fabric piece 1 to the paper and if possible try to ensure that this pin can remain in situ until the seam between piece 2 and 3 has been sewn (Photo 18). As there will only be a small number of stitches holding the fabric to the paper, this pin serves to take some of the strain off the seam between piece 1 and piece 2 and means that there is less chance that the stitches will rip away from the paper.
PHOTO 18
3 Start the seam one or two stitches before the line begins and extend it one or two stitches past the end. These few extra stitches can make all the difference in anchoring the fabric to the paper.
4 Take care when folding the fabric, as there are only a few anchor stitches and it’s easy to misalign the fold.
Every paper-pieced pattern in this book consists of multiple paper foundations (lettered A, B, C, etc) and these must be sewn together in the correct order to create a finished quilt top. The order that the foundations are joined is important and every pattern has a list that gives the sequence in which they should be sewn together. The difference between a mediocre and an expert piece of paper piecing often lies in the accuracy with which the individual paper pieces are sewn together, so it is definitely worth taking the time to do this as accurately as possible. I think that much of the groundwork for perfectly aligned seams is done while you are piecing each section. I know that opinions in the paper piecing world are split as to whether it is necessary to press every seam with an iron as you sew, but I have found that pressing seams adds accuracy to my piecing. I have tried to be lazy and to finger press my seams, but each time I have found that the fabrics have not creased in quite the right place and that this has led to inaccuracy when it comes to matching seams. It may be that this is the fault of my finger pressing technique (or lack of it) but experience has taught me that it is best to be cautious and to press every seam.
I like to use a walking foot when I sew paper templates together. I have found that the papers are less likely to slip in relation to each other and alignment is just that bit more accurate when sewn this way.
1 The first thing that you should do is to analyze the pattern. You will notice that there are some sections that can easily be sewn together without any need for precision, while others require significantly more attention to detail. When I consider each pattern, I look for the critical joining points – these are the points that need to match precisely when they are sewn together. Examples of these joining points are shown by red circles in Fig 1.
FIG 1
2 Once you have identified a critical joining point, push a pin through the paper and straight through to the fabric (Photo 19). Make sure that the pin comes out directly adjacent to the crease of the seam (Photo 20). Now take the other paper template and continue to push the pin through the crease of the fabric and the paper of the template (Photo 21). When you have done this, the pin should be standing perpendicular to the papers, which are sandwiched together with fabric in the centre (Photo 22). I call this pin the anchor pin. If you now take the anchor pin and push it through the paper horizontally, you will notice that the papers shift on top of each other and are no longer beautifully lined up (Photo 23). Even the slightest movement of the papers at this stage can make a huge difference to the accuracy of your join. As a result, you need to leave the anchor pin standing perpendicular to the fabric for the moment.
PHOTO 19
PHOTO 20
PHOTO 21
PHOTO 22
PHOTO 23
3 Use Clover Wonder Clips or pins to anchor the papers together on either side of the anchor pin. If you so choose, you can take the anchor pin out (or if you are cautious like me, you can leave it in, but please don’t blame me if you end up with a scratched sewing machine!). If there are several critical anchor points along one seam, place anchor pins on every one of these points. Anchor pins can also be helpful at the start and finish of seams, especially when sewing a paper with an acute angle.
4 When sewing your papers together there is nothing more annoying than making a mistake and having to unpick thousands of tiny stitches. For this reason, I strongly recommend that you increase your stitch length to 4 or even larger and tack (baste) the seam before sewing it properly. Not only does tacking (basting) make it easier to remove inaccurate stitches, but it also protects your paper. Shredding the paper by stitching it multiple times only makes it harder to sew the seam accurately. Start sewing from the end closest to the first anchor pin. The shorter the distance that you have to sew before crossing an anchor point, the smaller the chance that slippage will occur and the more accurately you will sew. An easy way to judge the accuracy of your tacked (basted) seam is to look at the stitches in relation to the printed pattern. Do the stitches follow the lines or do they veer off into space? Remember that it is not just a question of aligning papers, you also need to ensure that the fabric is also lined up with your papers and that a 1⁄4in seam of fabric has been sewn as well as a 1⁄4in of paper. Sometimes shifting the alignment of your paper by a mere millimetre can make a huge difference to the alignment of critical join points, especially when joining a point where one of the seams hits the join point at an acute angle. At other times, the first part of a seam will be beautifully aligned, but the second part goes awry. In this case, I will often only unpick the tacking (basting) stitches from the second part of the seam and will then resew that part of the seam. If you have sewn a seam several times and it is still not lining up correctly, it may be an idea to carry the papers to the machine with the anchor pin still in situ. Carefully drop your sewing machine needle into the exact position that your anchor pin stands (removing the pin as you do this). Tack (baste) from this point to the end of your seam, and then return to the original position of the anchor pin and sew in the other direction.
5 In general, I press the seams between sections closed. The sections will almost always decide for themselves which way that they want to lie. That said, at times (especially when the critical join point falls on a steeply angled seam where there is a lot of bulk), you may find that a seam has been joined accurately, but doesn’t look right. In this case the bulk of seam allowance, which has been pressed closed, may affect the lie of the fabric and make the join look inaccurate. It is worth checking to see whether opening the seam will make a difference. Sharing the bulk between the two sides of the seam is a subtle change but can make all the difference.
6 Once you are happy with your tacked (basted) seam, don’t forget to immediately go back and sew it again with your small paper piecing stitches. Try to train a little alarm bell in your head to warn that if you start sewing the next seam and your machine sews with a tacking (basting) stitch, something is wrong. Go back and check if you remembered to sew over your tacking (basting) stitches on the last seam. Another good habit to get into is to rip about an inch of paper away from the ends of the seam allowances once you have sewn two sections together (Photo 24). By so doing, you decrease the bulk of the seam allowances and make it significantly easier to remove the papers from your finished block. If you prefer, you can remove the paper from the length of the seam allowance, but personally I love the extra security that is given by leaving part of the seam allowance paper in situ.
PHOTO 24
Only remove the papers once you have finished a complete block and are ready to either tack (baste) the quilt or sew on borders. Remember that a paper-pieced block can be vulnerable to warping as the fabrics are generally sewn in all directions, so be very gentle with your finished top. In general, there are no great tricks as to how to remove papers. Take your time, do it gently and rip the pieces in reverse number order. At times, it can be helpful to have a pair of tweezers or a quick unpick to help ease some of the smaller paper pieces out of the seams.
When a block is finished, it can appear a bit lumpy along the seams. Points where multiple seams join up can lead to unsightly lumps and bumps. The discrepancy in the thickness of the seams can make it difficult to gain a neat result when pressing the finished block. The thick areas can become shiny, the thin areas sag and the whole block just looks tortured. A final step can help to flatten your seams out and give your block a more professional and finished look. Once all the papers are removed, have a quick look at the back of your block. Ensure that all the seams are pressed in the directions that you want them to be, if not, place the block seams side up and press them quickly into position. Lay several layers of wadding (batting) on your ironing board. Place your block on top of the wadding (batting) with the right side facing up, seam side down. Spray the block generously with starch or starch equivalent and then press the block until it is dry. By doing this you will see that the block becomes beautifully flat, with crisp seams and all seams pressed down into the wadding (batting). Using starch has the added bonus of protecting the block from warping.
