Chapter 7In the final course, we echo the sentiments of our savory menu, leaning steeply toward classics, with flavors showcasing the cycles of the year and recipes reflecting the spirit of Foreign Cinema. The desserts ahead are worthy of making at home, including a fruit-driven tart with an easy, perfectly flaky crust and ideas for substituting other fruits, floral-and botanical-steeped custards, silky rich chocolate pots de crème, a dramatic chocolate layer cake ideal for any celebration, and the ultimate citrus tart. From the beginning, we offered Italian-inspired fruit ices because they finish a meal brilliantly throughout the seasons, cleansing the palate with ice crystals bursting on your tongue. We offer several techniques for you to make and serve granita year-round, from fragrant melon to bright tangerine. With tastes for all occasions and ideas to inspire your own interpretations, we lovingly offer this collection of our signature desserts to complete your meal.
A truly bright spot in winter is the arrival of the exotic Italian bergamot orange with its distinctive grapefruit perfume. We use the zest and juice in savory sauces and to season fish, and make this tart to perfectly showcase the fruit. If you can’t find bergamot oranges, substitute additional lemon juice and add a teaspoon of bergamot extract (see Sources, this page).
Serves 6
GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST
10 graham crackers
1 tablespoon sugar
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
6 tablespoons (85 g) unsalted butter, melted
BERGAMOT CURD
Zest of 2 bergamot oranges
½ cup (120 ml) bergamot orange juice
½ cup (120 ml) fresh lemon juice
1 cup (200 g) sugar
4 large eggs
4 large egg yolks
¾ cup (1½ sticks/170 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar
1 cup (130 g) Candied Nuts (this page), made with almonds, for serving
Whipped cream, for serving (optional)
TO MAKE THE CRUST: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
In a food processor, pulse the graham crackers with the sugar and salt until it makes fine crumbs. Add the butter and pulse until the crumbs are evenly coated and have the texture of wet sand. Press the mixture into the bottom and up the sides of a 4 by 14-inch (10 by 35.5-cm) rectangular tart mold with a removable bottom in an even layer, using the flat bottom of a drinking glass to tightly pack the crumbs in an even layer to prevent crumbling. Bake until the crust is golden brown around the edges, about 15 minutes. Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool slightly. Leave the oven on.
TO MAKE THE CURD: Set a fine-mesh strainer over a medium bowl near the stove. In a small saucepan, combine the orange zest, the orange and lemon juices, sugar, eggs, egg yolks, and butter. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a heatproof spatula, until the sugar dissolves and the butter melts, and it begins to thicken slightly, 8 to 10 minutes. When it has the consistency of thin gravy, swap the spatula for a whisk and continue to heat, stirring constantly, until the whisk leaves a trail that remains for several seconds (an instant-read thermometer will read 170°F/77°C).
Pour the curd through the strainer, pressing on the solids (discard the solids), then spread the curd evenly into the crust to fill it completely. (Refrigerate any leftover curd in an airtight container for up to 3 days to enjoy on your morning toast.)
Put the tart in the oven and bake until the edges are set and the center is just slightly wiggly when jiggled, 5 to 6 minutes. Leave the oven on.
Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool completely, then refrigerate for at least 2 hours to fully set the filling.
To serve, run a paring knife around the inside edge of the pan to release the sides, then push up from underneath the bottom to pop out the tart. Transfer the tart to a serving plate. Dust with the confectioners’ sugar. Use a sharp knife to cut straight down into the tart, cutting it into 6 equal strips, each about 2⅓ by 4 inches (6 by 10 cm). Serve topped with a handful of candied almonds and a dollop of whipped cream, if desired.
Refrigerate leftover tart tightly wrapped with plastic wrap for up to 3 days.
WINE PAIRING
There are many producers of the Moscato d’Asti, and the G.D. Vajra from Piedmont may be the finest example. Its white peach and honey notes pair perfectly with the floral bergamot in the tart.
We love giving our tarts and cakes a buttery, rich, mildly tangy counterpoint with crème fraîche ice cream. But that doesn’t mean it can’t stand on its own, or be paired simply with fruit. We enjoy it with sliced strawberries, peaches, or sautéed apples and pears—or chocolate shavings. Plan ahead if you want to make your own crème fraîche.
Makes 1 quart (960 ml)
2 cups (480 ml) Crème Fraîche (this page, or store-bought)
1 cup (240 ml) heavy cream
1 cup (200 g) sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon kosher salt
In a medium bowl, whisk together the crème fraîche, cream, sugar, vanilla, and salt. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing it directly against the surface, and refrigerate until very cold, at least 4 hours.
Process the mixture in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Serve immediately, or transfer the ice cream to an airtight, freezer-safe container and freeze for up to 1 week.
To serve, scoop the ice cream into dessert bowls or serve aside or atop your favorite desserts.
Pavlova evokes a sense of beauty not only from the Russian ballerina who inspired the name, but also from the bold contrast of fruit cascading over a fragile white shell. The dramatic meringue has a crackly exterior enveloping a tender, chewy interior that melds with the poached and macerated fruits. In high summer, we use a singular type of berry or a mix such as olallieberries, raspberries, blueberries, and blackberries.
Serves 6
MERINGUE
2 large egg whites
6 tablespoons (75 g) sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
1 Tahitian vanilla bean
STRAWBERRY COULIS
1 pound (455 g) strawberries (about 4 cups)
¾ cup (150 g) sugar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Pinch of kosher salt
RHUBARB
2 cups (400 g) sugar
1 teaspoon rosewater
Pinch of kosher salt
3 medium stalks rhubarb, ends trimmed, cut into ¼-inch (6-mm) dice
Whipped cream, for serving
TO MAKE THE MERINGUE: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 200°F (90°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
Fill a medium saucepan with enough water to reach about one-third of the way up and bring it to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat so that the water is just barely simmering.
In a medium heatproof bowl large enough to rest on the edge of the pan of simmering water without touching the water, whisk the egg whites, sugar, and salt. Slit open the vanilla bean lengthwise and scrape the seeds into the bowl. Drop in the pod as well.
Set the bowl over the pot and gently whisk the egg white mixture until the sugar completely dissolves and the mixture is hot (a thermometer should read 150°F/66°C). The liquid will look clear with a bit of foam on top.
Remove the bowl from the pan and transfer the egg white mixture to a clean bowl. Discard the vanilla pod. Beat the mixture with a handheld electric mixer on medium-high speed until it doubles in volume and stiff peaks form, 7 to 8 minutes. You should see no unincorporated liquid in the bottom of the bowl.
Use a ¼-cup (60-ml) measure to dollop the meringue onto the prepared baking sheet in 6 mounds with 2 inches (5 cm) all around them. Use the back of a spoon to make a well in the center of each.
Bake until the meringues are dry on the outside and soft in the center, about 90 minutes. Transfer the pan to a wire rack to cool completely, at least 30 minutes.
TO MAKE THE COULIS: Hull and roughly chop the strawberries and put them in a medium saucepan. Add the sugar, lemon juice, salt, and ¼ cup (60 ml) water. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until the strawberries are soft and the liquid is syrupy, about 10 minutes.
Let cool slightly, then transfer the strawberries and syrup to a food processor fitted with a metal blade and process until smooth. Strain the berries through a fine-mesh strainer (discard the solids) and let cool completely.
TO PREPARE THE RHUBARB: Line a plate with paper towels. In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar, rosewater, salt, and 4 cups (960 ml) water. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves and the syrup comes to a simmer, about 5 minutes. Add the rhubarb and return to a simmer until it is just barely tender, about 30 seconds. Remove from the heat. Pour the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer; discard the liquid. Scatter the rhubarb onto the lined plate to cool.
Pour ¼ cup (60 ml) of the strawberry coulis into 6 shallow individual serving bowls and set a meringue on top of each. Center a heaping spoonful of rhubarb over each of the meringues, letting it cascade over the sides. Dollop each Pavlova with whipped cream and serve immediately.
MAKE AHEAD
Although this dessert has several components, all can be made in advance and assembled to order. Refrigerate the strawberry coulis and rhubarb in separate airtight containers up to 1 day ahead. Store the baked meringues in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.
A rustic, open-face fruit tart is simple, pure comfort food in its highest form. Our mushroom purveyor forages huckleberries for us; if you can’t find them (see Sources, this page), blueberries are a good stand-in. As early-season apricots give way to peaches and nectarines, you can substitute those as well. In the fall, try making the crostata with apples and raisins.
Serves 6 to 8
PASTRY
2 cups (250 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for shaping
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon granulated sugar
¾ cup (1½ sticks/170 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
⅓ cup (75 ml) ice water
BROWN SUGAR FILLING
4 tablespoons (½ stick/55 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature
¼ cup (55 g) packed brown sugar
¼ cup (30 g) confectioners’ sugar
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped and reserved, or ½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 large egg, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon kosher salt
FRUIT
1 pound (455 g) fresh apricots, pitted and cut into quarters
1 cup (130 g) wild huckleberries
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Juice of ½ lemon
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract (optional)
1 large egg, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water, for egg wash
1 tablespoon turbinado sugar, for finishing
1 quart (960 ml) Crème Fraîche Ice Cream (this page), for serving (optional)
TO MAKE THE PASTRY: Sift the flour, salt, and granulated sugar into a large bowl. Add the butter and use a pastry blender, two forks, or your fingers to work it into the dry ingredients until it is in pieces the size of small peas. Add the water and use your fingers to gently gather the mixture together until a dough forms. There should be no loose flour and you should be able to see little ribbons of butter.
Turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface, roll it into a ball, then press it into an approximately 6-inch (15-cm) disk that is about ¾ inch (2 cm) thick. Wrap the disk in plastic wrap and refrigerate until it is firm, at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.
While the dough chills, make the filling.
TO MAKE THE FILLING: In a large bowl, stir together the butter, brown sugar, confectioners’ sugar, and vanilla with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon until blended. Add the egg, flour, and salt and stir vigorously until the mixture is completely smooth. If not filling the crostata immediately, refrigerate the filling in an airtight container for up to 5 days.
TO PREPARE THE FRUIT: Shortly before assembling the crostata, in a large bowl toss together the apricots, huckleberries, granulated sugar, flour, lemon juice, salt, and vanilla, if using, until the fruit is evenly coated.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
Cut a piece of parchment paper to fit an unrimmed baking sheet and transfer the dough to the parchment. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough into a 14-inch (35.5-cm) round. Slide the dough and parchment onto the baking sheet.
Spread the brown sugar filling evenly over the pastry, leaving 1½ to 2 inches (4 to 5 cm) of pastry exposed around the edges, then top the covered area evenly with the fruit filling. Gently fold over the edge of the pastry to cover only the outer edge of the fruit, leaving at least an 8-inch (20-cm) area of exposed fruit at the center, pleating the pastry as you work your way around the circle. Brush the exposed dough with the egg wash and sprinkle with turbinado sugar.
Bake until the crust is golden brown and the fruit is bubbling all over, about 30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, with a scoop of crème fraîche ice cream, if desired.
One of our best-selling desserts, this cloud-like, mildly tart cheesecake showcases the changing seasons: sliced Fuyu persimmons and figs sprinkled with pomegranate seeds in autumn; macerated Maui pineapple and diced mango tossed with lime juice in winter; and any of the season’s bountiful fruits in spring and summer. It’s also very good with no fruit at all. We make minis for the restaurant, but our home version is a single cake.
The oat crumble topping makes more than you’ll need for the recipe. Use it to make a quick dessert crumble in a pinch: Top macerated fruit in a casserole dish with the raw crumble, bake until bubbly, and serve warm with ice cream.
Serves 8 to 10
GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST
12 graham crackers
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup (1 stick/115 g) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for the pan
FILLING
2 cups (460 g) cream cheese, at room temperature
1 cup (115 g) soft goat cheese, at room temperature
½ cup (120 ml) Crème Fraîche (this page, or store-bought) or sour cream
2 large eggs
2 cups (400 g) granulated sugar
1½ teaspoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
OAT CRUMBLE
½ cup (65 g) all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons old-fashioned rolled oats
2 tablespoons brown sugar
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch of kosher salt
6 tablespoons (85 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
Sliced fresh fruit such as peaches, strawberries, or raspberries
TO MAKE THE CRUST: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Line an 8-inch (20-cm) round springform pan with foil on the bottom and sides of the pan.
In a food processor, pulse the graham crackers with the granulated sugar and salt until it makes fine crumbs. Add the butter and pulse until the crumbs are evenly coated and have the texture of wet sand. Press the mixture into the bottom of the pan, using the flat bottom of a drinking glass to tightly pack the crumbs in an even layer to prevent crumbling. Bake until the crust is golden brown around the edges, about 15 minutes. Leave the oven on. Set aside to cool slightly, nesting the pan inside a roasting pan. When it’s cool enough to handle, liberally brush the foil on the pan sides with butter.
TO MAKE THE FILLING: Combine the cream cheese, goat cheese, crème fraîche, eggs, granulated sugar, salt, and lemon juice in a large bowl and mix with an electric mixer on medium speed until smooth, about 4 minutes, taking care not to overbeat. (If you use a stand mixer, use the paddle attachment.)
Spread the filling evenly in the pan. Carefully pour hot water from a kettle into the roasting pan so that it rises about halfway up the cheesecake filling.
Bake until the edges are set and the center is a little wiggly, about 90 minutes. Carefully remove the pan from the water bath and remove from the oven; increase the oven temperature to 350°F (175°C). Let cool for 1 hour, then cover and refrigerate for 4 hours longer.
TO MAKE THE CRUMBLE: While the cake cools, line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, oats, brown sugar, granulated sugar, cinnamon, and salt. Spread the mixture evenly on the prepared baking sheet and scatter the butter evenly over the crumbs. Bake for 10 minutes, stir with a heatproof spatula, bake for 10 minutes longer, stir again, and bake for a final 10 minutes, or until the crumble is golden brown and smells of nuts and caramel. Stir the crumble one more time, then let cool completely on the baking sheet.
To serve, run a knife around the perimeter of the cheesecake pan, then remove the sides. Transfer the cheesecake to a serving plate, leaving behind the foil. Cut the cheesecake into slices and garnish with the fruit and a sprinkling of oat crumble. Refrigerate leftover cheesecake, tightly wrapped in plastic wrap, for up to 3 days.
MAKE AHEAD
The graham cracker mixture can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 1 week ahead; bring to room temperature before pressing it into the pan. The filling can be refrigerated in an airtight container 3 to 5 days ahead; let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes before filling and baking the cheesecake. The crumble can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature up to 1 week ahead.
Classic custard is the ideal base for infusing botanicals like jasmine flowers, the ethereal effect evoking the splendor of the garden. The best tool for producing the crackly caramelized sugar crust is a kitchen torch, which can be found in most kitchen stores or online. If you don’t have one, you can finish the custards under the broiler following the instructions in the recipe.
Serves 6
6 large egg yolks
3 cups (720 ml) heavy cream
⅓ cup (65 g) plus 4 teaspoons sugar
1 cup (29 g) fresh, unsprayed jasmine flowers, 1 tablespoon loose jasmine tea, or 1 teaspoon pure jasmine extract
Pinch of kosher salt
1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C).
Place six 4-ounce (120-ml) ramekins in a 9 by 13-inch (23 by 33-cm) baking pan or other pan large enough to accommodate them without touching. Heat enough boiling water to reach one-third of the way up the sides of the ramekins in the pan.
Set a fine-mesh strainer over a 4-cup (960-ml) heatproof measuring cup or bowl with a pouring spout. Have on hand a kitchen torch.
In a medium bowl, lightly whisk the egg yolks. Set aside.
In a medium saucepan, combine the cream, ⅓ cup (65 g) of the sugar, the jasmine, and salt. Scrape in the seeds from the vanilla bean and drop in the pod as well. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until the sugar dissolves and small bubbles begin to form around the sides. Add about ¼ cup (60 ml) of the warm cream mixture to the eggs, whisking to incorporate. Add the rest of the cream to the eggs in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly so as not to curdle the eggs. Immediately pour the mixture through the strainer, then distribute evenly among the ramekins. Use a spoon to skim away any foam on top of the custards.
Reheat the water, then pour it into the pan to reach one-third of the way up the sides of the ramekins, taking care not to splash it into the custards.
Cover the baking pan with foil and bake until the custards are set but are still slightly jiggly in the center, 20 to 30 minutes.
Carefully transfer the pan to a heatproof surface and remove the foil, taking care to avoid the cloud of hot steam. Use tongs to carefully transfer the ramekins to a wire rack to cool slightly. Individually wrap the cooled ramekins in plastic wrap and refrigerate until cold, at least 4 hours.
To serve, sprinkle a spoonful of the remaining sugar over the top of each custard, gently spreading it with the back of a spoon to create a thin, even layer. Holding the torch close to the surface of the custards, wave the flame back and forth until the sugar melts completely and turns amber, 30 to 60 seconds each. Alternatively, to finish the custards in the broiler, set an oven rack in the highest position and turn the broiler to high. Place the custards on a baking sheet and broil until the tops are golden brown all over, 5 to 10 minutes, watching them carefully and rotating them frequently to avoid burning.
Let the custards cool slightly, allowing the caramel to harden, then serve immediately.
WINE PAIRING
Johann Geil Rieslaner Beerenauslese, “Bechtheimer” from the Rheinhessen, a hybrid of Riesling and Sylvaner, pairs elegantly with the perfume of jasmine and marries the floral and clover honey notes with a bright, fleeting finish.
MAKE AHEAD
The custards can be made up to 3 days ahead; cover tightly and refrigerate, finishing the sugared tops just before serving.
We juice fruits throughout the year for our seasonal granitas—refreshing, palate-cleansing ices that make a perfect dessert for those avoiding dairy and gluten. In winter, citrus dominates, giving way to berries, then watermelon; in fall, grapes and pomegranates. We taste the juice, coaxing out each fruit’s essence with a few grains of kosher salt, or drops of citrus juice or a favorite vinegar, to make sure it won’t be diluted by the ice crystals that form as it freezes. We’ll even freeze a tablespoon or two for a quality check before making final adjustments for the batch.
Serves 6
¾ cup (150 g) sugar
1 teaspoon whole cardamom pods, lightly toasted
4 cups (960 ml) fresh tangerine juice (about 12 tangerines)
Juice of ½ lemon
Pinch of kosher salt
In a small saucepan, combine the sugar, cardamom, and ¾ cup (180 ml) water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring to completely dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and let cool for at least 30 minutes, allowing the cardamom to infuse the liquid. Strain the cardamom syrup through a fine-mesh strainer; discard the solids.
In a large bowl, stir together the tangerine juice, lemon juice, salt, and 1 cup (240 ml) of the cardamom syrup. Taste and add more cardamom syrup if needed. (Refrigerate any remaining syrup in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Use to flavor ice tea or coffee.)
Pour the mixture no more than 2 inches (5 cm) deep into a 9 by 13-inch (23 by 33-cm) glass pan or ceramic baking dish and freeze in a level spot until the edges are starting to freeze but the center is still liquid, about 30 minutes. (The deeper the granita in the pan, the slower it will freeze.)
Retrieve the pan from the freezer and use a fork to scrape the ice crystals that have formed at the sides and surface, stirring them into the slushy mixture. Continue to freeze, repeating the scraping and stirring every 30 minutes, until the whole mixture has a uniformly snowy consistency, 3 to 4 hours total.
To serve, scoop the granita into serving bowls. Freeze leftover granita lightly packed in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.
BLACKBERRY-MINT GRANITA
Puree 1 quart (about 1¼ pounds/560 g) fresh blackberries in a food processor. Press through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl, discarding the solids. Set aside.
Follow the method for the Tangerine-Cardamom Granita, substituting ¼ cup (13 g) packed fresh mint leaves for the cardamom and the blackberry puree for the tangerine juice.
HONEYDEW-LIME GRANITA
Puree 1 quart (640 g) honeydew melon cubes (about 1 medium melon) in a blender until completely smooth; set aside.
Follow the method for the Tangerine-Cardamom Granita, omitting the cardamom and substituting the honeydew puree for the tangerine juice and the zest and juice of 2 limes for the lemon juice.
PLUM-BASIL GRANITA
Puree 10 to 12 pitted red plums (no need to remove skins) in a food processor. Press through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl, discarding the solids. Set aside.
Follow the method for the Tangerine-Cardamom Granita, substituting ¼ cup (10 g) packed fresh basil leaves for the cardamom and 4 cups (960 ml) plum puree for the tangerine juice.
This crepe batter is light and produces a beautifully tender and lacy texture thanks to an unusual ingredient: beer.
Serves 5
CREPES
6 tablespoons (45 g) all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup (240 ml) whole milk
1½ teaspoons canola oil
1 large egg
¼ cup (½ stick/55 g) unsalted butter, melted, plus 2 tablespoons butter for cooking crepes
¼ cup (60 ml) pale lager beer
DULCE DE LECHE
1 (14-ounce/420-ml) can coconut milk
2 cups (480 ml) milk
½ cup (100 g) sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
CARAMELIZED PINEAPPLE
1 pineapple, peeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch (12-mm) cubes
½ cup (110 g) packed brown sugar
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
TO MAKE THE CREPE BATTER: Sift the flour, sugar, and salt into a large bowl. Whisk in the milk, oil, and egg until combined. Add the melted butter in a steady stream, whisking briskly. Finally, whisk in the beer until everything is evenly incorporated. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight (the longer time will improve the texture of the crepes).
TO MAKE THE DULCE DE LECHE: While the crepe batter chills, make the dulce de leche and caramelized pineapple. In a small, heavy saucepan, combine the coconut milk, milk, sugar, and salt. Bring to a boil over high heat. Immediately turn off the heat and add the baking soda, taking care, as the liquid will bubble. Return the mixture to the heat and cook at a low simmer until it is reduced by about half (about 2 cups/480 ml), about 30 minutes, stirring occasionally at first and more frequently as it thickens. Let cool to room temperature.
TO MAKE THE PINEAPPLE: In a large bowl, toss the pineapple with the brown sugar, vanilla, and salt to evenly coat the fruit. Set aside to macerate for 10 minutes. Melt the butter in a large, heavy skillet over high heat. Add the pineapple and its juices and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until almost no liquid remains, 8 to 10 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring, until the pineapple is caramelized on all sides, 3 to 5 minutes more. Remove from the heat and set aside.
TO COOK THE CREPES: Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until the white solids come to the surface, 7 to 8 minutes. Skim off and discard the solids. Remove the clarified butter from the heat and set aside.
Line a 9-inch (23-cm) or larger plate with parchment paper and set it by the stove. Cut 15 similar pieces of parchment paper for layering between the crepes.
Heat a 9-inch (23-cm) nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Dip a paper towel into the clarified butter and carefully use it to wipe a thin layer of butter over the surface of the pan. Ladle or pour 1 ounce (2 tablespoons) crepe batter into the pan, immediately tilting the pan in all directions to evenly coat the pan with the batter. Cook until the crepe is lightly browned at the edges, 1 to 2 minutes. (It’s not unusual for the first crepe to stick to the pan a bit.) Gently invert the crepe and cook until the second side is lightly browned at the edges, about 45 seconds to 1 minute. Transfer the crepe to the lined plate. Repeat to cook the remaining crepes, buttering the pan between them and topping each with a piece of parchment paper. You should have about 15 crepes.
To serve, fold the warm crepes in half, then in half again to create small triangles. Arrange the crepes on individual dessert plates and top each with heaping spoonfuls of the warm caramelized pineapple. Drizzle with the coconut dulce de leche and serve.
MAKE AHEAD
You can make crepe batter a day or two ahead, allowing it to come to room temperature, then stirring it before making the crepes. Or wrap the cooked crepes tightly with plastic wrap and store at room temperature for up to three hours, or refrigerate for up to one day. Warm the crepes on a baking sheet at 300°F (150°C) until heated through, 3 to 4 minutes. The dulce de leche may be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to one week; serve at room temperature.
Roasting pineapple intensifies its flavor and bright acidity, making an irresistible topping for crepes.
A selection of our most popular desserts (clockwise from top left): Crepes with Caramelized Pineapple and Coconut Dulce de Leche, Ginger Cake with Cardamom Crème Chantilly, and Plum-Basil and Tangerine-Cardamom Granitas.
Ginger cake is lovely paired with fresh-brewed coffee, and even better with Crazy Coffee (this page). Crème Chantilly is often flavored with vanilla, but here we’ve elevated the whipped cream with cardamom for an earthy pop of flavor that complements the cake.
Serves 8
CAKE
3 cups (375 g) all-purpose flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup (240 ml) canola or vegetable oil
1 cup (240 ml) boiling water
1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
1 cup (240 ml) molasses
¼ cup (50 g) minced fresh ginger
¼ cup (45 g) minced crystallized ginger
CRÈME CHANTILLY
4 cups (960 ml) heavy cream
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom
Pinch of salt
¾ cup (95 g) confectioners’ sugar
TO MAKE THE CAKE: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Spray the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23-cm) round cake pan with nonstick cooking spray. Sift the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, cloves, and salt into a medium bowl.
In a large bowl, whisk the oil, boiling water, sugar, and molasses. Add the flour mixture to the oil mixture in three additions, whisking after each until the mixture is smooth and no lumps remain. Whisk in the fresh and crystallized ginger just until they are evenly distributed. Evenly spread the batter into the prepared cake pan.
Bake until the top of the cake is deep brown and a wooden toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, 50 to 55 minutes.
Transfer the cake pan to a wire rack and let cool until the pan is no longer warm to the touch, about 10 minutes. Run a thin paring knife around the inside edge of the pan, then invert the cake directly onto the rack. Center an inverted serving plate over the cake and turn the whole thing over to set the cake right side up on the plate. Let cool completely, about 1 hour.
TO MAKE THE CRÈME CHANTILLY: In a large bowl, beat the cream, vanilla, cardamom, and salt with a wire whisk or handheld electric mixer until it is frothy and soft peaks form, about 3 minutes. Gradually add the confectioners’ sugar while continuing to whisk until stiff peaks form, about 8 minutes longer.
To serve, cut the cake into slices and top each with a heaping dollop of the crème Chantilly.
Store leftover cake in an airtight container at cool room temperature for up to 3 days. Refrigerate leftover Chantilly for up to 1 day in an airtight container; whisk to refresh the cream just before serving.
WINE PAIRING
Charleston Sercial is the driest of the Rare Wine Co.’s affordable Historic Series Madeiras, each named for a US city where Madeira was popular in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The wine has a long life after opening, making it a good after-dinner option if you don’t drink dessert wine every night. The Sercial tastes of salted caramel, fig, and Meyer lemon peel without being as sweet as those sound, making it a good match with this spicy-earthy cake.
Our pots de crème get their silky texture from Valrhona chocolate, and the ramekins bake in a water bath to gently set the custard without scorching. This crowd-pleaser has been a constant fixture on our menu for the past seventeen years.
Serves 6
6 ounces (170 g) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped, or 6 ounces (170 g) bittersweet chocolate chips
1 cup (240 ml) heavy cream
1 cup (240 ml) whole milk
2 tablespoons sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
3 large egg yolks
Crème Fraîche (this page, or store-bought), for garnish (optional)
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C).
Place six 4-ounce (120-ml) ramekins in a 9 by 13-inch (23 by 33-cm) baking pan or other pan large enough to accommodate them without touching. Heat enough boiling water to reach one-third of the way up the sides of the ramekins in the pan.
Place the chocolate in a large bowl and set aside. In a large, heavy saucepan, combine the cream, milk, sugar, and salt. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Immediately pour half of the hot cream mixture over the chocolate and whisk vigorously until the mixture is completely smooth. Set a fine-mesh strainer over a 4-cup (960-ml) heatproof measuring cup or bowl with a pouring spout.
In a small bowl, lightly whisk the egg yolks. Pour the remaining cream mixture into the yolks in a slow, steady stream while whisking constantly to avoid scrambling the yolks. Continue whisking until the mixture is completely smooth. Vigorously whisk the egg mixture into the chocolate cream until the custard is thick and completely smooth. Pour the mixture through the strainer, then distribute evenly among the ramekins.
Reheat the water, then pour it into the pan to reach one-third of the way up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the baking pan with foil and bake until the custards are set but still slightly jiggly in the center, about 20 minutes.
Carefully transfer the pan to a heatproof surface and remove the foil, taking care to avoid the cloud of hot steam. Use tongs to carefully transfer the ramekins to a wire rack to cool completely. Individually wrap the cooled ramekins in plastic wrap and refrigerate until cold, at least 4 hours.
To serve, garnish each pot de crème with a dollop of crème fraîche, if desired. Leftover pots de crème may be refrigerated, tightly covered, for up to 3 days.
We created this cake to mark Greig Pirie’s birthdays from age seventy to a young eighty-one. Donning a bow tie and patent leather shoes, Papa Greig hosted in the dining room two or three nights a week for ten years during his retirement. He was a favorite among the restaurant’s guests, remembering which party arrived from where, what they were celebrating, and how they came to know about the restaurant. Greig adored layer cake, and at first we spiked the frosting with Johnnie Walker Black Label Scotch, his favorite, later settling on bourbon to marry the chocolate, hazelnuts, and buttercream. Skål!
Serves 10
CAKE
1½ cups (190 g) all-purpose flour
¾ cup (70 g) cocoa powder
1½ cups (300 g) sugar
1½ teaspoons baking soda
¾ teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 large eggs
¾ cup (180 ml) fresh-brewed or prepared instant coffee
¾ cup (180 ml) Crème Fraîche (this page, or store-bought)
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
BUTTERCREAM
8 large egg whites
2 cups (400 g) sugar
Pinch of kosher salt
4 cups (8 sticks/900 g) unsalted butter, cut into small cubes, at room temperature
1½ teaspoons pure vanilla extract
¼ cup (60 ml) bourbon
1 cup (130 g) Candied Nuts (this page), made with hazelnuts, still slightly warm
TO MAKE THE CAKE: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Spray two 8-inch (20-cm) round cake pans with nonstick cooking spray and place an 8-inch (20-cm) parchment paper round in each pan.
Sift the flour, cocoa powder, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, and salt into a medium bowl. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, coffee, crème fraîche, oil, and vanilla. In several additions, whisk the flour mixture into the egg mixture.
Divide and spread the batter evenly between the prepared pans. Bake until the cakes spring back when lightly pressed with a finger and a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes. Set the pans on wire racks to cool for 15 minutes. To unmold, run a paring knife around the inside edge of the pan, then invert the layers directly onto the wire racks and remove the parchment paper. Let cool completely, about 30 minutes longer.
TO MAKE THE BUTTERCREAM: Fill a medium saucepan one-third full of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat so that the water is barely simmering.
In a medium heatproof bowl large enough to nest on top of the pan without touching the water, whisk the egg whites, sugar, and salt. Set the bowl over but not touching the water and whisk lightly just until the sugar completely dissolves but the mixture is not hot to the touch. The liquid will appear clear with a bit of foam on top.
Scrape the mixture into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment and beat at medium-high speed until stiff peaks form and the bottom of the bowl is cool to the touch, 8 to 10 minutes. Switch to the paddle attachment and add the butter in small increments, mixing at medium speed to incorporate each addition and scraping down the sides of the bowl between additions. When all of the butter is incorporated, add the vanilla, then the bourbon, 1 teaspoon at a time, briefly mixing between additions to incorporate it.
Set aside 6 candied hazelnuts for the top of the cake. Pulse the remaining nuts in a food processor until they have a pourable consistency with a nice sheen, 8 to 10 minutes, stopping the processor occasionally to scrape down the sides of the processor bowl.
TO ICE THE CAKE: Center a large plate over a cooled cake layer and flip to turn the cake right side up. Using a large serrated knife, cut the cake in half horizontally using a sawing motion. Repeat with the second layer. Keep the cake layers stacked, separating them with parchment paper, as you assemble the cake.
Place one layer on a serving platter and spread about 3 tablespoons (about one-third) of the ground hazelnuts over it with an offset spatula in a thin, even layer. Top with 1 cup (240 ml) of the buttercream, spreading it evenly with the offset spatula. Top with a second layer and repeat layering the nuts and buttercream. Repeat with the third layer. Top with the final layer and spread the remaining buttercream over the top and sides to frost the entire cake, finishing it by making rustic swirls in the buttercream. Decorate the cake with the reserved candied hazelnuts. Cut the cake into pieces and serve.
Refrigerate leftover cake, tightly wrapped in plastic wrap or under a cake dome, for up to 3 days; let stand for 15 minutes at room temperature before serving.
MAKE AHEAD
The baked cake layers can be stored, tightly wrapped at cool room temperature, for up to 2 days before assembling the cake. The buttercream can be stored in an airtight container at cool room temperature for up to 5 days. The ground and whole candied hazelnuts can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 7 days.
