MUI NE


Mui Ne at a Glance...

Once upon a time, Mui Ne was an isolated stretch of beach where pioneering travellers camped on the sand. Times have changed and it’s now an established beach resort. Mui Ne has moved upmarket, as more exclusive places open their doors, complemented by swish restaurants, but there is still a (kite) surfer vibe to the town. Sailing, windsurfing and hot-air ballooning are also popular.

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THOAI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

A Day in Mui Ne

Book a sunrise trip to see the region’s famous sand dunes then enjoy some beach time on Mui Ne’s lovely sands. In the late afternoon drop by the Po Shanu Cham Towers, indulge in an early evening massage at Xanh Spa, then head to Dong Vui Food Court for drinks and dinner.

Two Days in Mui Ne

The next day sign up for a windsurfing, sailing or cooking course followed by a visit to the Fairy Spring. After dark enjoy a memorable meal in the acclaimed shoreside Sandals restaurant then hit Joe’s Cafe for live music and beers.

Arriving in Mui Ne

There’s no airport, and the nearest train station is in Phan Thiet, so most visitors arrive by road via bus or private transport.

Mui Ne has good bus links to Ho Chi Minh City. For Nha Trang and points north catch an open-tour bus.

Sleeping

Most midrange and top-end accommodation is either right on the long coastal road or just off it, with a few good-value places in the hills behind town. Budget places tend to be on the back streets. Wherever you are, you won’t be far from the beach.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Sports & Activities

For kite- and windsurfers, late October to late April is peak season when gales blow. There’s also some surf, good sailing, a decent local golf course and hot-air ballooning.

Great For...

lpf

dont-missyDon't Miss

For a fun hour or so check out Tropical Minigolf Mui Ne.

need-to-know8Need to Know

It’s almost impossible to get lost in Mui Ne: everything is spread along a 10km stretch of highway.

take-a-break5Take a Break

Fancy a pamper? Head to good-value Botanica Spa.

top-tipoTop Tip

Many resorts east of Km 12 have almost completely lost their beaches due to coastal erosion.

Mui Ne is the adrenaline capital of southern Vietnam. There’s no scuba-diving or snorkelling to speak of, but when Nha Trang and Hoi An get the rains, Mui Ne gets the waves. Surf’s up from August to December.

Kitesurfing has really taken off and the infinite horizon is often obscured by dozens of kites flapping in the wind.

If this all sounds too much like hard work, you can simply lounge around on the beach, watching others take the strain, or perhaps book a hot-air balloon trip.

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Mui Ne Beach | HEMIS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Boating

One of Southeast Asia’s best sailing schools, Manta Sail Training Centre (MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%0908 400 108; http://mantasailing.org; 108 Ð Huynh Thuc Khang; sailing instruction per hour US$66) offers instruction and training (from beginner to advanced racing). Speak to them about wakeboarding (US$100 per hour), SUP rentals (US$10 per hour) and boat tours. They also have budget rooms available right by the beach.

Ballooning

Mui Ne Hot Air Balloon (icon-phonegif%0120 853 6828; www.vietnamballoons.com; from US$136), the first hot-air balloon experience in Vietnam, is a professionally run, European-owned operation that sees you either soaring over the spectacular white sand dunes and desert lakes east of Mui Ne, or alternatively over the bustling fishing harbour of Phan Thiet. Prepare yourself for a magical flight at sunrise.

Kitesurfing & Surfing

One of Mui Ne’s best-regarded kite schools, Surfpoint Kiteboarding School (MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%0167 342 2136; www.surfpoint-vietnam.com; 52a Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; 5hr course incl all gear US$250; icon-hoursgifh7am-6pm) offers a three-hour starter course for US$150. Surfing lessons on soft boards are also offered (from US$50) when waves permit.

Mui Ne’s original kitesurfing school, Jibes (MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%0252-384 7405; www.jibesbeachclub.com; 84-90 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-6pm) offers instruction (US$60 per hour) and rents gear including windsurfs (US$55 per day), SUPs (US$20 per half-day), surfboards, kitesurfs and kayaks.

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Mui Ne

1Sights

6Drinking & Nightlife

12PoGoC2

8Information

8Transport

1SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Sand DunesBeach

Mui Ne is famous for its enormous red and white sand dunes. The ‘red dunes’ (doi hong) are convenient to Hai Long, but the ‘white dunes’ (doi cat trang) 24km northeast are the more impressive – the near-constant oceanic winds sculpt the pale yellow sands into wonderful Saharaesque formations. But as this is Vietnam (not deepest Mali) there’s little chance of experiencing the silence of the desert.

Prepare yourself for the hard sell as children press you to hire a plastic sledge to ride the dunes. Unless you’re supermodel-light, it can be tricky to travel for more than a few metres this way.

Quad bikes and dune buggies also destroy the peace. Bizarrely, ostrich riding is offered as an activity, but we don’t recommend it due to animal-cruelty concerns. Expect some litter too; periodically there’s a clean-up, but the tide of plastic keeps returning.

If you’re booking a sand dune tour, be careful to agree on an itinerary, preferably in writing. We hear complaints, particularly about ‘sunset tours’ that cut short with the sun high in the sky.

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Mui Ne’s sand dunes | BLACKAKALIKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Po Shanu Cham TowersHindu Site

(Km 5; 10,000d; icon-hoursgifh7.30-11.30am & 1-4.30pm) Around 6km west of Mui Ne, these Cham towers occupy a hillside with sweeping views of nearby Phan Thiet and a cemetery filled with candy-like tombstones. Dating from the 9th century, this complex consists of the ruins of three towers, none of which are in very good shape. There’s a small pagoda on site too.

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Po Shanu Cham Towers | INGAMIV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Fairy SpringRiver

(MAP GOOGLE MAP;Suoi Tien) This stream flows through a patch of dunes and past some interesting sand and rock formations. It’s a pleasant walk wading from the sea up the creek to its source, a spring. You can do the trek barefoot, but if you’re heading out into the big sand dunes after, you’ll need proper footwear. Expect some trash and souvenir stands along the way.

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Fairy Spring | ACHIAOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Tropical Minigolf Mui NeMinigolf

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.minigolfmuine.com; 97 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; 1 round 100,000-120,000d; icon-hoursgifh10am-11pm) This attractive shady crazy golf course is dotted with craggy rock formations to challenge your putting skills. There’s a bar and restaurant here too.

Botanica SpaSpa

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%094 887 7203; 83b Ɖ Nguyen Dinh Chieu; 1hr massage from 300,000d; icon-hoursgifhnoon-midnight) Down a little lane, this good-value spa is perfect for a soothing massage, treatment, manicure or pedicure. The Vietnamese and Thai massages are excellent.

Xanh SpaSpa

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%062-384 7440; www.miamuine.com; 24 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; 1hr massage from 710,000d) Located in the Mia Resort, this gorgeous upmarket spa offers the full gamut of massages, facials (from 600,000d), body treatments (try an Aloe Vera Body Soothe), steam sessions, wraps and manicures and pedicures. Essential oils and natural products are used.

5Eating

Dong Vui Food CourtFood Hall$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.facebook.com/FoodCourtDongVui; 246 Ɖ Nguyen Dinh Chieu; meals 30,000-170,000d; icon-hoursgifh5-11pm) A brilliant new concept, this attractive open-air food court has loads of independently-run cook stations offering everything from Punjabi cuisine to paella, German sausages and Thai curries – plus plenty of Vietnamese options. Just grab a seat and order what you fancy. There’s also great craft beer on tap and live music some weekends. Located on the eastern side of the strip.

SindbadMiddle Eastern$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; www.sindbad.vn; 233 Ɖ Nguyen Dinh Chieu; meals 50,000-110,000d; icon-hoursgifh11am-1am; icon-wifigifW) Always busy, Sindbad serves tasty, great-value Greek cuisine including mean shawarma (beef or chicken doner kebabs), shish kebabs and great salads (Greek, Italian, garden). For a feast, order the Mediterranean Delight, which includes lots of mini plates including hummus and bruschetta.

Com Chay Vi DieuVegetarian$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 15B Ð Huynh Thuc Khang; meals 25,000d; icon-hoursgifh7am-9pm; icon-veggifv) A simple roadside place perfect for inexpensive Vietnamese vegetarian dishes (curries, noodle soup and fried rice dishes); it also serves great smoothies (20,000d). It’s opposite the Eiffel Tower of the Little Paris resort. Almost no English is spoken.

Lam Tong QuanVietnamese, Seafood$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; 92 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; meals 40,000-140,000d; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-10pm) This no-frills seafront place has tables by the shore (and some shelter if it’s raining). There’s a wide choice of dishes including lots of seafood (try the crab or steamed fish). However, expect service that’s surly verging on rude. Very little English is spoken.

SandalsInternational$$

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%0252-384 7440; www.miamuine.com; Mia Resort, 24 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; meals 120,000-370,000d; icon-hoursgifh7am-10pm; icon-wifigifW) For a memorable meal in Mui Ne head straight to Sandals, located at Mia Resort. It’s particularly romantic at night, with tables set around the shoreside pool and subtle lighting. The menu is superb, with everything from seafood platters to perfectly seasoned grilled meat dishes. There’s a great choice of wine by the glass, and craft beers too.

6Drinking & Nightlife

PoGoBar

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%0912 000 751; www.thepogobar.com; 138 Ɖ Nguyen Dinh Chieu; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-2am) This casual bar has a great beachfront location, day beds for lounging, DJs on weekends and regular movie nights. Staff are very friendly; happy hour runs from 6pm to 8pm.

Joe’s CaféBar

(MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://joescafemuine.com; 86 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; icon-hoursgifh7am-1am; icon-wifigifW) This very popular pub-like place has live music (every night at 7.30pm) and a gregarious vibe. During the day it’s a good place to hang too with seats set under a giant mango tree, magazines to browse, pool table and an extensive food menu.

8INFORMATION

Sinh Tourist (MAP GOOGLE MAP; icon-phonegif%098 925 8060; www.thesinhtourist.vn; 144 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; icon-hoursgifh7am-10pm) Operates open-tour buses to HCMC, Nha Trang and Dalat and has a computerised booking system.

8GETTING THERE & AWAY

Open-tour buses are the most convenient option for Mui Ne. Several companies have daily services to/from HCMC (110,000d to 135,000d, six hours), Nha Trang (from 112,000d, 5½ hours) and Dalat (125,000d, four hours).

Phuong Trang (MAP GOOGLE MAP; http://futabus.vn; 97 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu) Very regular buses between Mui Ne and Ho Chi Minh City.

8GETTING AROUND

Mai Linh (icon-phonegif%0252-389 8989) operates reliable metered taxis, although call ahead to book later in the evening.