Oats flourish in temperate regions such as northwest Europe and North America—and now in the foothills of the Himalayas—as they require less summer heat and tolerate more rain than most cereals.
Since ancient times, oats have been used as much for animal feed as for human food. Samuel Johnson noted in his diary that oats were “eaten by the people of Scotland, but fit only for horses in England.” We humans still consume oats mostly in our morning porridge, though we love our oatmeal cookies, muffins, scones, crackers, and hearty breads.
Today, oats are celebrated for their health-giving attributes: Oats have more fat and protein but fewer carbs and less sugar than whole wheat, and they are a good source of calcium. Oats lower total cholesterol and contain unique antioxidants to reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease, stabilize blood sugar, lower the risk of type 2 diabetes, and protect against breast cancer. That morning oatmeal is good for us!
Oat flour is nothing more than oats milled to a fine, soft tan powder; it has a sweet, slightly toasty aroma and a tendency to clump. Oat flour has all the flavor of oats without the texture of oatmeal. Its soft fiber absorbs moisture well, so it doesn’t produce the gritty or sandpapery textures that result from some other whole-grain flours.
Chocolate chip cookies made with oat flour were my first clue that oats might actually taste like butterscotch; initially I thought that the oats accentuated the flavor of the brown sugar in the cookies. It took making a sponge cake with oat flour (and not a bit of brown sugar) to realize that the oats themselves had contributed butterscotch flavor!
Oat flour makes tender, light cakes and toothsome, even delicate, cookies. Many of these recipes use oat flour alone, with stellar results, in cakes, crumbles, ginger cookies, and crispy wafers called tuiles. Teamed up with white or brown rice flour in other recipes, oat flour softens the texture, reduces the grit, or just adds a little complexity to the flavor. The Ultimate Butter Cake (see recipe), Butter Biscuits (see recipe), and Simple Scones (see recipe), otherwise rice-based, taste more interesting with a little oat flour, though one would be hard put to identify the oat flavor if not looking for it. Oat flour with rice flour also makes a sensational American-style chocolate fudge cake (see recipe)—but then, why wouldn’t an undertone of butterscotch enhance the flavor of chocolate?
Don’t be surprised if guests don’t immediately recognize the flavor of oats in most of these recipes, or if friends who think they don’t like oats love these desserts. The true flavor of oats transcends their hearty and comforting reputation, and the textures that are possible from oat flour will surprise and delight you.
Nuts, brown sugar, caramel, honey, maple sugar, butter, fresh apples, blueberries, bananas, pears, figs, dates, raisins, prunes, cinnamon, nutmeg, yogurt, cream, mascarpone, coconut, coffee, vanilla
Oat flour is available in better supermarkets in the specialty flour or gluten-free section of the baking aisle, or online from Bob’s Red Mill (see Resources). Oat flour is a whole grain and should be stored in an airtight container, away from heat and light, for 2 to 3 months at room temperature, or 6 months in the refrigerator, or up to 12 months in the freezer.
Oat flour turns a plain-Jane sponge cake into something elegant with the subtle but distinct flavors of butterscotch or toffee. The crusty edges I picked off my first oat flour sponge cake were delicious with my coffee: you’ll find it a perfect match to serve with Prunes Poached in Coffee and Brandy (see recipe). Or use this base to make the two-layer Oat Flour Fruit Basket Cake that follows (see recipe). Serves 8 to 10
3 tablespoons (45 grams) Clarified Butter (see recipe) or ghee (click here)
1 cup (100 grams) oat flour
⅔ cup (130 grams) sugar
4 large eggs
⅛ teaspoon salt
8-by-3-inch round cake pan (or springform pan or cheesecake pan with removable bottom)
Stand mixer with whisk attachment
Sifter or medium-mesh strainer
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper but leave the sides ungreased.
Put the clarified butter in a small pot or microwavable container ready to reheat when needed, and have a 4- to 5-cup bowl ready to pour it into as well—the bowl must be big enough to allow you to fold some batter into the butter later.
Whisk the flour and 2 tablespoons of the sugar together thoroughly in a medium bowl.
Combine the remaining sugar, eggs, and salt in the bowl of the stand mixer and beat with the whisk attachment on high speed for 4 to 5 minutes. The mixture should be light colored and tripled in volume, and you should see well-defined tracks as the whisk spins; when the whisk is lifted, the mixture should fall in a thick, fluffy rope that dissolves slowly on the surface of the batter.
Just before the eggs are ready, heat the clarified butter until very hot and pour it into the reserved bowl.
Remove the bowl from the mixer. Sift one-third of the flour over the eggs. Fold with a large rubber spatula until the flour is almost blended into the batter. Repeat with half of the remaining flour. Repeat with the rest of the flour. Scrape about a quarter of the batter into the hot butter. Fold until the butter is completely blended into the batter. Scrape the buttery batter over the remaining batter and fold just until blended. Scrape the batter into the pan.
Bake until the cake is golden brown on top, 30 to 35 minutes. It will have puffed up and then settled level, but it won’t have pulled away from the sides of the pan, and a toothpick inserted in the center should come out clean and dry. Set the pan on a rack. While the cake is hot, run a spatula around the inside of the pan, pressing against the sides of the pan to avoid tearing the cake.
At your convenience (the cake can be warm or completely cool), invert the pan to remove the cake and peel off the parchment liner. Turn the cake right side up to finish cooling. The cake should be completely cool before filling, frosting, or storing. The cake may be wrapped airtight and stored at room temperature for 2 days, or frozen for up to 3 months.
Too simple for words: soft, tender layers of oat flour génoise are filled with preserves, whipped cream, and fresh berries. Team strawberry preserves with fresh strawberries, or pair them with apricot or peach preserves instead. In winter, swap the berries for diced bananas. It will be hard not to eat leftovers for breakfast—but there’s nothing wrong with oats and fruit for breakfast. Serves 10 to 12
1 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 to 3 teaspoons granulated sugar
Oat Flour Sponge Cake (see recipe), baked and cooled
¼ to ⅓ cup fruit preserves
1½ pints (425 grams) blackberries or raspberries, or 1½ pints (340 grams) strawberries
Powdered sugar for dusting
Lightly sweetened whipped cream (see recipe), for serving (optional)
Electric mixer or whisk
Whip the cream with the vanilla in a chilled bowl until it begins to thicken. Add granulated sugar to taste, beating until the cream holds a good shape without being quite stiff—it will continue to stiffen as you spread it on the cake. Refrigerate the cream while you prepare the cake.
Turn the cake best-looking side up on a platter. Cut it into two layers with a serrated bread knife. If the top layer is too delicate to pick up without breaking, slide a rimless baking sheet or a flexible plastic cutting mat under it and set it aside. Spread the bottom layer evenly with the preserves. Spread all of the whipped cream over the preserves. Set aside a few berries for garnish. Cut strawberries into bite-size pieces. Arrange berries or berry pieces over the cream in a single layer with a little space between them. Press the berries well into the cream (so the top cake layer will make contact with the cream). Set the top cake layer on top of the cream and press gently to level the cake. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 1 day.
Sieve a little powdered sugar over the top of the cake and garnish with the reserved berries and whipped cream, if desired, before serving. Leftovers keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for a day or so.
Lighter than a pound cake but more substantial than a sponge or chiffon cake, this cake will become your new basic. The combination of rice flour and a little oat flour for depth of flavor and complexity makes the cake taste extra buttery. The recipe makes a single tube (or Bundt) cake or two cake layers with a perfect melt-in-your-mouth crumb. The cake is excellent without any frosting at all, or with just about any frosting or glaze you can think of. Make it once and you will think of a million ways to use it, flavor it, or style it, from cupcakes to layer cakes—well beyond the variations that follow. Serves 10 to 12
2⅔ cups (400 grams) white rice flour or 4 cups (400 grams) Thai white rice flour
½ cup (50 grams) oat flour
2 cups minus 3 tablespoons (360 grams) sugar
½ pound (2 sticks/225 grams) unsalted butter, very soft
¾ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon xanthan gum
1 cup plain yogurt (any percent butterfat) or slightly watered down Greek yogurt
4 large eggs
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
Two 9-by-2-inch round cake pans or one 10-inch tube pan with removable bottom or 10- to 12-cup Bundt pan
Stand mixer with paddle attachment
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease the pan(s) with vegetable oil spray or butter and line the bottoms of the layer cake pans with parchment paper.
Combine the rice and oat flours, sugar, butter, and salt in the bowl of the stand mixer and mix on medium speed with the paddle attachment until the mixture is the texture of brown sugar, about a minute. Add the baking powder, baking soda, xanthan gum, yogurt, eggs, and vanilla and beat on medium-high speed for 2 to 3 minutes; the batter should be very smooth and fluffy. Scrape into the prepared pan(s) and bake the layers for 25 to 30 minutes, or the tube or Bundt pan for 45 to 50 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean and dry. Set the pan(s) on a rack to cool completely.
Slide a thin knife or a small metal spatula around the edges of the layer cakes or the tube pan (and the tube) to detach the cake(s) from the pan(s). Loosen the cake from the Bundt pan by rapping all sides of the pan against the counter. Invert each cake onto the rack and peel off the parchment liner. Turn the layer cakes right side up.
Orange Butter Cake
Substitute 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest and ¼ cup orange juice for the vanilla extract and bake in two layer pans. Spread the cooled layers with apricot jam and serve with lightly sweetened whipped cream (see recipe).
Holiday Pound Cake with Bourbon Glaze
Add 2 teaspoons grated nutmeg to the batter and bake in the tube or Bundt pan. When the cake is cool, mix 1 cup (115 grams) powdered sugar with ¼ cup bourbon (or brandy or rum). Pour the glaze over the cake.
Cupcakes
Line a cupcake tin with 12 paper liners and put 2 extra liners in 2 custard cups or ramekins (the batter makes exactly enough for 14 cupcakes and will overflow if you try to put all of the batter in 12). Fill the cups about two-thirds full with either the butter cake or orange cake. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until a toothpick inserted near the center comes out almost clean. Let cool and frost as desired.
Preparing the pan with poppy seeds gives a nutty-tasting, crunchy crust and guaranteed pan release. The cake is moist and just gets better over a few days. If it gets a little stale, toast slices and serve them with some English marmalade. Serves 8 to 12
½ pound (2 sticks/225 grams) unsalted butter, very soft
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (60 grams) poppy seeds
2⅔ cups (400 grams) white rice flour or 4 cups (400 grams) Thai white rice flour
½ cup (50 grams) oat flour
2 cups minus 3 tablespoons (360 grams) sugar
¾ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon xanthan gum
1 cup plain yogurt (any percent fat) or slightly watered down Greek yogurt
4 large eggs
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
½ teaspoon pure almond extract
10- to 12-cup Bundt pan
Stand mixer with paddle attachment
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Use about 2 tablespoons of the butter to heavily coat the inside of the Bundt pan, making sure not to leave any bare spots. Sprinkle about 2 tablespoons of the poppy seeds into the bottom of the pan, then shake the pan briskly from side to side to scatter the seeds up the sides of the pan; set aside.
Combine the rice and oat flours, sugar, remaining butter, and salt in the bowl of the stand mixer and mix on medium speed with the paddle attachment until the mixture is the texture of brown sugar, about a minute. Add the remaining poppy seeds, baking powder, baking soda, xanthan gum, yogurt, eggs, vanilla, and almond extract and beat on medium-high speed for 2 to 3 minutes; the batter should be very smooth and fluffy. Scoop dollops of the batter into the bottom of the pan; don’t spread the batter because that will dislodge the seeds. Don’t worry if the batter is not quite even; it will level itself in the oven. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, until a bamboo skewer inserted in the center comes out clean and dry. Set the pan on a rack to cool completely.
When the cake is cool, invert a large plate onto the Bundt pan, and hold it on firmly. Flip the whole business over and remove the pan. Cut into thick slices with a serrated knife to serve. The cake keeps, covered, at room temperature for up to a week.
Once upon a time, a good “chocolate layer cake” was a simple yet delicious yellow or white cake filled and frosted with dark, but not too bittersweet, chocolate frosting. This recipe makes that great traditional birthday cake that kids (and everyone else) love; it’s a refreshing alternative to the modern über chocolate experience! Serves 10 to 12
2⅔ cups (400 grams) white rice flour or 4 cups (400 grams) Thai white rice flour
½ cup (50 grams) oat flour
2 cups minus 3 tablespoons (360 grams) sugar
½ pound (2 sticks/225 grams) unsalted butter, very soft
¾ teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon xanthan gum
1 cup plain yogurt (any percent fat), or slightly watered down Greek yogurt
4 large eggs
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
Dark Chocolate Frosting (recipe follows)
Two 9-by-2-inch round cake pans
Stand mixer with paddle attachment
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease the sides of the pans with vegetable oil spray or butter and line the bottoms with parchment paper.
Combine the rice and oat flours, sugar, butter, and salt in the bowl of the stand mixer and mix on medium speed with the paddle attachment until the mixture is the texture of brown sugar, about a minute. Add the baking powder, baking soda, xanthan gum, yogurt, eggs, and vanilla and beat on medium-high speed for 2 to 3 minutes; the batter should be very smooth and fluffy. Scrape into the prepared pans and bake the layers for 25 to 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean and dry. Set the pans on a rack to cool completely.
Slide a thin knife or a small metal spatula around the edges of the cakes to detach them from the pans. Invert one layer onto a serving plate and peel off the parchment liner. Spread about one-quarter of the frosting on top of the layer. Unmold the second layer and peel off the liner. Set it right side up on the frosted layer. Spread another quarter of the frosting in a very thin layer over the top and sides of the cake, just enough to smooth the surface and glue on any crumbs. Chill to set the frosting, about half an hour. Stir the remaining frosting until smooth (warm it slightly if necessary) and spread it over the top and sides of the cake, as luxuriously as you want. Depending on how much frosting you like, there may be some left over. The cake keeps in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Bring to room temperature before serving.
Makes 1 quart
1 cup heavy cream
17.5 ounces (500 grams) 55% to 62% chocolate, coarsely chopped
½ pound (2 sticks/225 grams) unsalted butter, softened
Put the cream and chocolate in a medium stainless steel bowl. Bring an inch of water to a simmer in a wide skillet. Turn off the heat and set the bowl of chocolate in the water. Let it rest for 15 minutes, gently shaking the bowl several times to submerge the chocolate in the cream. When the chocolate is melted, start whisking at one edge and continue whisking until all of the chocolate is incorporated and the mixture is smooth. Add the butter in chunks and whisk once or twice to break them up; let the mixture rest for 5 minutes before whisking it smooth. Leftovers keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
Tart, flavorful apples, such as Pink Lady, Pippin, Sierra Beauty, Braeburn, Arkansas Black Twig, or Winesap (to name a few), are best with this recipe. Try the pear or nectarine variations, or the fig variation for something even more unusual and gorgeous. Serves 6 to 8
4 tablespoons (½ stick/55 grams) unsalted butter, very soft
½ cup (100 grams) packed brown sugar
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 large apple
Grated zest and juice of 1 small lemon
1⅓ cups (200 grams) white rice flour or 2 cups (200 grams) Thai white rice flour
¼ cup (25 grams) oat flour
1 cup minus 2 tablespoons (180 grams) sugar
8 tablespoons (1 stick/115 grams) unsalted butter, very soft
Scant ½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon xanthan gum
½ cup plain yogurt (any percent fat) or slightly watered down Greek yogurt
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 pint vanilla ice cream or Whipped Cream (see recipe)
9-by-2-inch round cake pan
Stand mixer with paddle attachment
Position a rack in the lowest part of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Use the back of a spoon to smear the 4 tablespoons topping butter all over the bottom of the pan. With the same spoon, spread the brown sugar over the butter (the brown sugar should be in an even layer but does not need to be incorporated into the butter). Sprinkle with the cinnamon. Peel, quarter, and core the apple and cut it into ¼-inch slices. Place in a bowl and toss gently with the lemon zest and juice. Place the apple slices flat in the pan, covering most of the brown sugar layer, and pour the lemon juice from the bowl on top; set aside.
For the cake, combine the rice and oat flours, sugar, butter, and salt in the bowl of the stand mixer and mix on medium speed with the paddle attachment until the mixture is the texture of brown sugar, about a minute. Add the baking powder, baking soda, xanthan gum, yogurt, eggs, and vanilla and beat on medium-high speed for 2 to 3 minutes; the batter should be very smooth and fluffy. Scrape into the prepared pan and spread it evenly. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
Let the cake sit for 5 minutes on a rack, then slide a slim knife or small metal spatula around the edge to detach it from the pan. Invert the cake onto a plate to cool. If some of the apples stick to the pan, use a spatula to transfer them back into place—the gooey topping will hide all sins here. Serve wedges with ice cream or whipped cream.
Figgy Upside-Down Cake
Figs are stickier than other fruit: butter the bottom of the pan and line it with parchment paper before smearing it with the topping butter. Substitute 12 small fresh figs for the apple. Stem and halve the figs and arrange them cut side down in the pan. Remove the parchment before serving.
Pear Upside-Down Cake
Substitute 1 large or two small ripe pears for the apple.
Nectarine Upside-Down Cake
Substitute ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar for the brown sugar and 1 large nectarine (unpeeled) for the apple.
Quick breads are especially diverse and strongly regional. Coffee cake is one of the great examples of this—all sorts of quick and yeast-risen breads with and without crumb toppings pass for coffee cake in different parts of the United States. This cinnamon, crumb-topped yellow cake with plenty of butter and eggs also includes yogurt (for a little tanginess) instead of sour cream and a combination of rice and oat flour, which accentuates the flavor of the eggs and butter even better than does wheat flour. After the first day, you will want to toast slices or give them a ten-second warm-up in the microwave. Serves 8 to 12
1⅔ cups (250 grams) white rice flour or 2½ cups (250 grams) Thai white rice flour
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (40 grams) oat flour
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (240 grams) granulated sugar
10 tablespoons (1¼ sticks/140 grams) unsalted butter, very soft
¾ teaspoon salt
1 cup (100 grams) finely chopped walnuts
½ cup (100 grams) packed brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon xanthan gum
½ cup plain yogurt (any percent fat) or slightly watered down Greek yogurt
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
9-by-13-inch glass baking dish
Stand mixer with paddle attachment
Position the rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease the dish with vegetable oil spray or butter.
Combine the rice and oat flours, granulated sugar, butter, and salt in the bowl of the stand mixer and mix on medium speed with the paddle attachment until the mixture is the texture of brown sugar, about a minute. Remove about 1 cup of the mixture and place it in a small bowl; stir in the walnuts, brown sugar, and cinnamon, and set aside.
Add the baking powder, baking soda, xanthan gum, yogurt, eggs, and vanilla to the mixer bowl and beat on medium-high speed for 2 to 3 minutes; the batter should be very smooth and fluffy. Scrape the batter into the prepared dish and spread it evenly. Scatter the reserved crumb mixture over the batter. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve warm, cut into 3-inch squares, or let cool. The cake keeps, covered, at room temperature for up to 3 days. Microwave for about 10 seconds to restore freshness.
Rice and oat flours give this moist and otherwise classic American cake a surprising delicacy while letting the spices shine through. A guest once pronounced this the best carrot cake he’d ever eaten. Cool the cake thoroughly and make sure the frosting is soft before topping with Cream Cheese Frosting. Serves 12
1¼ cups flavorless vegetable oil (such as soybean, corn, or safflower)
2 cups (400 grams) sugar
4 large eggs
1½ cups plus 1 tablespoon (240 grams) white rice flour or 2⅓ cups (240 grams) Thai white rice flour
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon (80 grams) oat flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
½ teaspoon salt
3 cups (340 grams) lightly packed shredded peeled carrots (about 4 large carrots)
1 cup (100 grams) coarsely chopped walnuts
Cream Cheese Frosting (recipe follows)
9-by-13-inch glass baking dish
Stand mixer with paddle attachment or handheld mixer
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease the baking dish with vegetable oil spray or butter.
Combine the oil, sugar, and eggs in the bowl of a stand mixer and beat on medium speed with the paddle attachment until lighter in color, about 2 minutes. Or beat with a handheld mixer on medium-high speed for 3 to 4 minutes.
Add the rice and oat flours, baking soda, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, salt, carrots, and walnuts and beat on low speed until smooth. Scrape the batter into the prepared dish.
Bake for 30 minutes at 350°F, then reduce the heat to 325°F and bake for 30 minutes longer, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Set the pan on a rack to cool for at least 2 hours before frosting.
To frost, use a spoon to drop dollops of frosting all over the cake, then spread with a small spatula. Cut into 3-inch squares to serve.
This cake keeps, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
Note: To make this into a layer cake, grease the sides of two 9-by-2-inch round cake pans and line the bottoms with parchment paper. Divide the batter evenly between the pans. Bake for 30 minutes at 350°F and 20 minutes at 325°F. Fill and frost the cake with 1½ batches of Cream Cheese Frosting.
Substitute raw peeled and shredded orange-fleshed sweet potatoes (often called yams) for the carrots.
Makes a scant 2 cups
8 ounces (225 grams) cream cheese
8 tablespoons (1 stick/115 grams) unsalted butter
1½ cups (170 grams) powdered sugar
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Warm the cream cheese and butter in a microwave oven on Low until soft but not melted. Add the powdered sugar and vanilla and beat with a spoon until smooth.
This is a classic American-style chocolate cake—dense, moist, and dark. The Milk Chocolate Frosting is rich and sweet, with just a touch of fudge-like sugar crystallization; substitute Mocha Mousse Frosting (see recipe) for a more sophisticated cake, or make a Red Velvet–Style Cake (see variations). Serves 10 to 12
2 cups (400 grams) sugar
1⅓ cups (200 grams) white rice flour or 2 cups (200 grams) Thai white rice flour
½ cup (50 grams) oat flour
⅔ cup (60 grams) natural unsweetened cocoa powder
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon xanthan gum
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 large eggs
1 cup milk
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
½ cup flavorless vegetable oil (such as soybean, corn, or safflower)
1 cup boiling water
Milk Chocolate Frosting (recipe follows)
Two 9-by-2-inch or three 8-by-2-inch round cake pans
Stand mixer with paddle attachment
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease the sides of the cake pans with vegetable oil spray or butter and line the bottoms with parchment paper.
Put the sugar, rice flour, oat flour, cocoa powder, salt, xanthan gum, baking powder, and baking soda in the bowl of the stand mixer and mix with the paddle attachment until well combined. Add the eggs, milk, and vanilla and beat on medium speed for 2 minutes. Add the oil and beat until smooth. Stir in the hot water until well incorporated. The batter will be thin.
Divide the batter between the prepared pans and bake 8-inch layers for 20 to 25 minutes or 9-inch layers for 30 to 35 minutes, until the cakes pull away slightly from the edges of the pans and a toothpick inserted near the center comes out almost clean. Set the pans on a rack to cool completely before frosting or storing.
When the layers are cool, slide a thin knife or a small metal spatula around the edge of the cakes to detach them from the pans. Invert the layers and peel off the parchment liners. Set one layer on a serving plate. For a two-layer cake, spread one quarter of the frosting on top of the layer and top with the second layer. For a three-layer cake, spread one fifth of the frosting on the first layer, top with the second layer, spread with frosting, and top with the third layer. Spread a very thin layer of frosting over the top and sides of the cake just to smooth the surface and glue on any crumbs. Chill to set the frosting, about half an hour. Stir the remaining frosting until smooth (warm it slightly if necessary) and spread it over the top and sides of the cake, as luxuriously as you want. The cake keeps in an airtight container for up to 5 days in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature before serving.
Nondairy Fudge Cake
Substitute a total of 2 cups of coconut milk beverage (not Asian coconut milk) or almond milk for the milk and water. Add 1 cup of the liquid cold or at room temperature to replace the milk and 1 cup boiling to replace the water. Fill the layers with cherry preserves and frost with Dark Chocolate Frosting (see recipe), made with Asian coconut milk instead of cream and coconut oil instead of butter. (The frosting may need to be chilled briefly—to thicken it—before spreading.)
Fill and frost the cake with Cream Cheese Frosting (see recipe). If you simply must have a red cake, add 1 tablespoon red food coloring to the batter with the vanilla.
Chocolate Fudge Cupcakes
Line a cupcake tin with 12 paper liners and put 3 extra liners in custard cups or ramekins; the batter makes enough for 15 cupcakes and will overflow if you try to fit it all into 12. Fill each cup about two-thirds full. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted near the center of a cupcake comes out almost clean.
Makes 1 quart
1 cup heavy cream
17.5 ounces (500 grams) milk chocolate, coarsely chopped
½ pound (2 sticks/225 grams) unsalted butter, softened
Put the cream and chocolate in a medium stainless steel bowl. Bring an inch of water to a simmer in a wide skillet. Turn off the heat and set the bowl of chocolate in the water. Let it rest for 15 minutes, gently shaking the bowl several times to submerge the chocolate in the cream. When the chocolate is melted, start whisking at one edge and continue whisking until all of the chocolate is incorporated and the mixture is smooth. Add the butter in chunks and whisk once or twice to break them up; let the mixture rest for 5 minutes to finish melting the butter before whisking it smooth. Set aside to cool and thicken. Leftovers keep, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
This is the cake you want to take to the next backyard potluck—frosting is poured over the cake right in the pan, so it can’t go anywhere, even if it gets a little warm outside. If you serve the cake chilled, the texture stays nice and soft and moist, and the frosting is easier to slice through neatly. Serves 12
Batter for Maya’s Chocolate Fudge Cake (see recipe)
1 recipe Milk Chocolate Frosting (see recipe)
9-by-13-inch glass baking dish
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Grease the baking dish with vegetable oil spray or butter.
Make the batter as directed and scrape it into the prepared dish. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the cake pulls away slightly from the edges of the dish and a toothpick inserted near the center comes out almost clean. Set the dish on a rack to cool completely before frosting. To frost, set the dish on a level surface. If the frosting is too thick to pour, rewarm it for a few seconds at a time in the microwave on Medium. Pour the frosting over the cake. Let sit at room temperature until the frosting is slightly set, then cover and store for up to 5 days in the refrigerator. Serve chilled (see headnote) or bring to room temperature before serving. To serve, cut into twelve 3-inch squares.
These irresistible scones are light and soft inside with a craggy golden brown crust—quite different from the heavy bakery scones you may be accustomed to. Scones rise better if the dough rests in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours and up to 2 days before baking, either as a whole log or sliced. For the best texture, make sure the tops get browned, and don’t crowd the scones on the pan. Serve the scones with tea and jam. Makes twelve 3-inch scones
1⅓ cups (200 grams) white rice flour (preferably superfine) or 2 cups (200 grams) Thai white rice flour
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (60 grams) oat flour
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon xanthan gum
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup heavy cream
½ cup plain yogurt (any percent fat) or slightly watered down Greek yogurt
About 2 tablespoons coarse sugar, such as turbinado, for sprinkling
Stand mixer with paddle attachment
Baking sheet, lined with parchment paper
Combine the rice and oat flours, granulated sugar, xanthan gum, baking powder, salt, cream, and yogurt in the bowl of the stand mixer and beat with the paddle attachment for 2 minutes on low speed; the dough will be very stiff. It is important to beat the dough long enough or the scones won’t rise well; don’t worry about overbeating.
Form the dough into a thick log, 2 inches in diameter, wrap it in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight.
Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.
Cut the log into 12 thick slices. Place the slices about 2 inches apart on the lined sheet and sprinkle with coarse sugar. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the scones are browned on top and bottom. Serve immediately or cool on a rack and toast before serving.
Beat 1 cup (120 grams) chopped dried pitted dates and 1 cup (100 grams) coarsely chopped walnuts into the dough after mixing.
The combination of rice and oat flours gives these biscuits a subtle complexity; a perfect crisp crust with a soft, pillowy interior; and a pronounced butter flavor. The usual accompaniments are grand here: jam, honey, or sausages and white gravy. Biscuits have the best texture and rise if the dough rests in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours before baking, either as a whole log or sliced. Makes twelve 3-inch biscuits
1⅓ cups (200 grams) white rice flour (preferably superfine) or 2 cups (200 grams) Thai white rice flour
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (60 grams) oat flour
2 teaspoons sugar
¼ teaspoon xanthan gum
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
1 cup heavy cream
½ cup plain yogurt (any percent fat)
Stand mixer with paddle attachment
Baking sheet, lined with parchment paper
Combine the rice flour, oat flour, sugar, xanthan gum, baking powder, salt, cream, and yogurt in the bowl of the stand mixer and beat with the paddle attachment for 2 minutes on low speed; the dough will be very stiff. It is important to beat the dough long enough or the biscuits won’t rise well; don’t worry about overbeating.
Form the dough into a thick log, 2 inches in diameter, wrap it in plastic, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight.
Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.
Cut the log into 12 thick slices. Place the slices close together on the pan for soft pull-apart biscuits or 2 inches apart for separate biscuits and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until browned on top and bottom. Serve immediately or cool on a rack and toast before serving.
Supersmooth, rich, slightly tangy yogurt custard is the perfect filling for this oat and rice flour shortbread crust. The elements may sound like the makings of a healthy breakfast, but the results are suave and dressy enough for company. Serve the tart pristinely plain or with a scatter of fresh blueberries or sliced strawberries and a last-minute drizzle of honey. Serves 8 to 10
¾ cup (75 grams) oat flour
3 tablespoons (30 grams) white rice flour or scant ⅓ cup (30 grams) Thai white rice flour
¼ cup (50 grams) sugar
⅛ teaspoon salt
1⁄16 teaspoon baking soda
6 tablespoons (85 grams) unsalted butter, cut into chunks and softened
2 tablespoons (30 grams) cream cheese, cut into chunks
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten with a pinch of salt
3 large eggs
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar (75 grams)
⅛ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1½ cups (340 grams/12 ounces) plain Greek yogurt (any percent fat)
9½-inch fluted tart pan with removable bottom
Food processor fitted with the steel blade (optional)
Rimmed baking sheet
Grease the tart pan with vegetable oil spray or butter.
To make the crust by hand, put the oat flour, rice flour, sugar, salt, and baking soda in a medium bowl and whisk until thoroughly blended. Add the cream cheese, butter, and vanilla. Use a fork or the back of a large spoon to mash and mix the ingredients together until all are blended into a smooth, soft dough.
To make the crust in a food processor, put the oat flour, rice flour, sugar, salt, and baking soda in the food processor. Pulse to blend. Add the butter, cream cheese, and vanilla. Pulse until the mixture forms a smooth, soft dough. Scrape the bowl and blend in any stray flour at the bottom with your fingers.
Transfer the dough to the tart pan.
The dough may seem much softer than other tart doughs. Use the heel of your hand and then your fingers and/or a small offset spatula to spread the dough all over the bottom of the pan. Press it squarely into the corners with the side of your index finger to prevent extra thickness at the bottom edge, and press it as evenly as possible up the sides of the pan, squaring off along the top edge. Have patience; there is just enough dough (although you may not think so at first). If there is too much dough in one place (or hiding in the corners of the pan), pinch or scrape it off and move it elsewhere. Spread or smear it smooth with the spatula. Here’s a final trick for a perfectly even crust: Press a sheet of plastic wrap against the bottom and up the sides of the pan and lay a paper towel on top. Set a straight-sided, flat-bottomed cup on the towel; press and slide the cup all over the bottom and into the corners to smooth and even the surface. Leave the plastic wrap in place. Refrigerate the pan for at least 2 hours, but preferably overnight and up to 3 days.
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F.
Peel the plastic wrap from the crust. Set the pan on the baking sheet and bake the crust for 35 to 40 minutes, checking after 15 to 20 minutes. If the crust has puffed up on the bottom, press it back down carefully with the back of a fork. Continue baking until the crust is golden brown and has pulled away from the sides of the pan.
While the crust is baking, make the filling: Whisk the eggs with the sugar, salt, and vanilla in a medium bowl. Whisk in the yogurt.
When the crust is ready, remove it from the oven and turn the temperature down to 300°F. Brush the bottom of the crust with a thin layer of the beaten egg yolk to moisture-proof it. (Discard any remaining egg wash or save it for another use.) Return the crust to the oven for 2 minutes to set the yolk.
Pour the filling into the hot crust and spread it evenly. Return the tart to the oven and bake until the filling is set around the edges but, when the pan is nudged, quivers like very soft Jell-O in the center, 15 to 20 minutes. Check often in the last few minutes, as overbaking will destroy the silky-smooth texture of the filling. Cool the tart completely on a rack. Refrigerate if not serving within 3 hours. To serve, remove the sides of the pan and transfer the tart (with or without the pan bottom) to a platter. The tart is best on the day it’s made, but leftovers may be kept in a covered container in the refrigerator for a day or two.
Use juicy blackberries or raspberries, olallieberries, or boysenberries to make a delicately flaky free-form tart. Serves 6
¼ recipe rugelach dough (see recipe)
¼ teaspoon white rice flour, plus more for rolling
3 tablespoons (35 grams) sugar
3 cups (385 grams) blackberries
Cinnamon sugar: 1 tablespoon sugar mixed with ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Rolling pin
Baking sheet
Make the dough as directed and shape it into a round patty. Chill as directed.
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.
Remove the dough from the refrigerator. Let it stand for a few minutes until just pliable enough to roll, but not too soft. Use a rolling pin to roll the dough between sheets of wax paper or parchment into a 12-inch circle a scant ⅛ inch thick. Slide the dough and paper onto a baking sheet and refrigerate for 10 to 15 minutes so it will be easier to handle. (Don’t bother to make shelf space in the fridge; just slip the pan on top of whatever is in there!) Remove the pan from the refrigerator and slide the dough out onto the counter. Peel off the top sheet of paper and set it clean side up on the pan. Dust the dough very lightly with rice flour. Lift the paper under the dough and flip the dough over onto the parchment-lined pan. Peel off the paper.
Mix the sugar and ¼ teaspoon rice flour and toss with the berries in a medium bowl. Pour the berries and sugar in the center of the dough, leaving a 2½-inch border all around. Fold the edges of the dough over the berries, pleating it as you go. Don’t worry if the dough breaks or cracks a little. Bush off any excess rice flour. Sprinkle the edges of the dough with pinches of cinnamon sugar.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the dough is golden to deep golden brown on top and deep golden brown on the bottom (lift the parchment a little to peer underneath). Set the pan on a rack to cool. Slide the galette onto a serving platter and serve warm or at room temperature. The galette is best on the day it is made.
The contrast between crunchy topping and juicy fruit is enticing, but it turns out (after numerous overly gooey trials) that it is difficult to achieve with any fruit softer than an apple. Preparing the topping and fruit separately may seem like an annoying extra step, but is actually easier and more foolproof, since you don’t need to coordinate the doneness of the topping and filling—just unite them when the peaches are done. Serves 6 to 8
About 2 pounds (900 grams) peaches, unpeeled, cut into ¾-inch chunks, to make 5 cups
2 tablespoons lemon juice
¼ cup (50 grams) sugar
1 tablespoon white rice flour
⅔ cup (100 grams) white rice flour or 1 cup (100 grams) Thai white rice flour
¼ cup (25 grams) oat flour
¼ teaspoon salt
1 cup (85 grams) sliced natural (unskinned) almonds
1 cup (200 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
6 tablespoons (85 grams) unsalted butter, melted
2-quart baking dish, 2 to 3 inches deep
Baking sheet, lined with parchment paper
Position oven racks in the lower and upper thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.
For the fruit, combine the peaches, lemon juice, sugar, and rice flour in the baking dish. Bake for 15 minutes on the lower rack, stir, and bake for 30 to 35 more minutes, or until the juices are bubbling at the center of the dish.
Make the topping while the peaches are baking: Combine the rice flour, oat flour, salt, nuts, brown sugar, nutmeg, and butter in a medium bowl. Stir until well combined. Transfer the mixture to the lined baking sheet and spread it evenly about ½ inch thick. Bake on the upper rack for 8 to 10 minutes, until well browned. Set aside. As soon as the peaches are ready, use a spatula to cover them with large pieces of topping. Cool for at least 20 minutes and serve warm or at room temperature. The crumble can be kept at room temperature, covered with a paper towel, for up to 1 day or covered tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days.
Nectarine, Apricot, Plum, or Cherry Crumble
Substitute 5 cups cubed nectarines, apricots, or plums or 5 cups (755 grams) pitted cherries for the peaches. Add 2 tablespoons more sugar to the fruit.
Blueberry, Blackberry, or Huckleberry Crumble
Substitute 5 cups (700 grams) fresh or frozen (not defrosted) berries for the peaches. (Mixed blueberries and huckleberries are especially good!) Add 2 tablespoons more sugar to the fruit. Substitute 1 cup (100 grams) finely chopped walnuts or pecans for the almonds.
To peel or not to peel the apples! I often make crumbles and crisps with unpeeled apples, because I like the texture and the extra flavor that comes from the skins, but you can have it your way. Tender apples with tender skins need the skins so they won’t fall apart, but denser apples with tougher skins may be a little too chewy (for some tastes). If your apples are particularly sweet, you might want to add the extra tablespoon of lemon juice. Serves 6 to 8
About 2 pounds (900 grams) apples, peeled or unpeeled, cored and cut into ¾-inch chunks to make 5 cups
2 to 3 tablespoons lemon juice (see headnote)
¼ cup water
2 tablespoons (25 grams) sugar
1 tablespoon white rice flour
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
⅔ cup (100 grams) white rice flour or 1 cup (100 grams) Thai white rice flour
¼ cup (25 grams) oat flour
¼ teaspoon salt
1 cup (100 grams) finely chopped walnuts
½ cup (100 grams) firmly packed light brown sugar
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg
1¼ teaspoons ground cinnamon
6 tablespoons (85 grams) unsalted butter, melted
2-quart baking dish, 2 to 3 inches deep
Rimmed baking sheet
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.
For the fruit, combine the apples, lemon juice, water, sugar, and rice flour in the baking dish. Place the dish on the rimmed baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes, stir, and bake for 15 to 20 more minutes, until the juices are bubbling at the edge of the dish.
Make the topping while the apples are baking: Combine the granulated sugar, rice flour, oat flour, salt, walnuts, brown sugar, nutmeg, cinnamon, and melted butter in a medium bowl. Stir until well combined. When the apples are ready, spoon the topping over them. Bake for 15 to 20 more minutes, until the topping is browned and the apples are tender and bubbling in the center of the dish. Cool for at least 20 minutes and serve warm or at room temperature. The crumble can be kept at room temperature, covered with a paper towel, for up to 1 day or covered tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days.
Substitute 5 cups hard-ripe pears, such as Bartlett (Williams) or Bosc, cut into cubes, for the apples. If you have tender pears, use the recipe for Peach Crumble (see recipe)—it’s better for softer fruits—and substitute 5 cups cubed tender pears for the peaches.
Cobbler is easy fall comfort food, and especially satisfying if you’ve been out picking the apples. Cream instead of butter makes the biscuit topping quick to mix, and—surprisingly—extra fresh and buttery tasting. Serves 6 to 8
About 2 pounds (900 grams) apples, peeled, quartered, cored, and roughly sliced about ⅓ inch thick, to make 5 cups
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon white rice flour
½ cup (100 grams) sugar
⅔ cup (100 grams) white rice flour (preferably superfine) or 1 cup (100 grams) Thai white rice flour
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon (30 grams) oat flour
⅛ teaspoon xanthan gum
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1½ teaspoons baking powder
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup heavy cream
¼ cup plain yogurt (any percent fat)
1 tablespoon coarse sugar, such as turbinado, to sprinkle on top
2-quart baking dish, 2 to 3 inches deep
Rimmed baking sheet
Stand mixer with paddle attachment
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.
For the fruit, combine the apples, lemon juice, rice flour, and sugar in the baking dish. Place on the rimmed baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes, stir, and bake for 15 to 20 more minutes, or until the juices are bubbling at the edge of the dish.
Mix the biscuit dough while the apples are baking: Combine the rice flour, oat flour, xanthan gum, granulated sugar, baking powder, salt, cream, and yogurt in the bowl of the stand mixer, and beat with the paddle attachment for 2 minutes on low speed; the dough will be very stiff. It is important to beat the dough long enough or the biscuits won’t rise well; don’t worry about overbeating.
When the apples are ready, spoon dollops of biscuit dough over them (don’t cover the apples completely) and sprinkle with coarse sugar. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the topping is browned and the apples are tender and bubbling in the center. Cool for at least 20 minutes and serve warm or at room temperature. The cobbler can be kept at room temperature for up to 1 day, covered with a paper towel, or covered tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 3 days.
Substitute 5 cups of mixed sliced pears and fresh or frozen rhubarb slices for the apples and add 2 tablespoons sugar to the filling.
Oat flour brings its own natural butterscotch flavor to this childhood treat. Makes sixteen 2-inch blondies
⅔ cup (60 grams) oat flour
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon (60 grams) white rice flour or ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (60 grams) Thai white rice flour
3 tablespoons (30 grams) potato starch
¼ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon xanthan gum
Rounded ¼ teaspoon salt
8 tablespoons (1 stick/115 grams) unsalted butter, melted and kept warm
⅓ cup (65 grams) packed light brown sugar
⅓ cup (65 grams) granulated sugar
1 large egg
¾ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
¾ cup (75 grams) walnut pieces
¾ cup (130 grams) semisweet or bittersweet chocolate chips
8-inch square pan, bottom and all four sides lined with foil or parchment paper
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.
In a small bowl, whisk the oat and rice flours, potato starch, baking soda, xanthan gum, and salt until thoroughly blended. Set aside.
Mix the butter and brown and granulated sugars in a medium bowl. Use a spatula or a wooden spoon to beat in the egg and vanilla. Stir in the flour mixture just until moistened, then beat about 20 strokes to aerate the batter slightly. Stir in half of the walnuts and half of the chocolate chips. Spread the batter in the lined pan. Scatter the remaining walnuts and chocolate chips evenly over the top.
Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the nuts look toasted, the top is golden brown, and the edges have pulled away from the sides of the pan. Cool in the pan on a rack. Lift the ends of the parchment or foil and transfer to a cutting board. Use a long sharp knife to cut into 16 squares. The blondies may be stored in an airtight container for 3 to 4 days.
Oat flour adds sensational buttery toffee notes to these otherwise classic almond wafers—and to the equally marvelous coconut version that follows. If you want curved or shaped tuiles, see box. Makes about forty 3-inch cookies
4 tablespoons (½ stick/55 grams) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing the foil
2 large egg whites
2 teaspoons water
½ cup (100 grams) sugar
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon (30 grams) oat flour
¼ teaspoon pure almond extract
Scant ½ teaspoon salt
⅔ cup (70 grams) sliced almonds
2 baking sheets
Silicone baking mats (optional)
Rolling pin or small cups for shaping (optional); see box
Line the baking sheets with regular foil (dull side facing up) or silicone mats and grease the foil or silicone lightly but thoroughly, or line the sheets with nonstick foil, nonstick side up (see Note).
In a medium bowl, mix the egg whites with the water, sugar, oat flour, almond extract, and salt until well blended. Stir in the butter and almonds. Cover the bowl and let the batter rest for several hours or overnight in the refrigerator to hydrate the flour.
Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven (or one rack in the center if you are baking only one sheet at a time) and preheat the oven to 325°F.
Stir the batter. Drop level teaspoons 2 inches apart on the lined baking sheets. Use the back of the spoon to smear the batter into 2½-inch rounds—tuiles baked on greased foil will spread a little; those baked on silicone or nonstick foil will not. Bake, watching carefully, for 12 to 15 minutes, rotating the sheets from front to back and top to bottom about halfway through the baking time, until the tuiles are mostly deep golden brown. If the cookies are not baked enough, they will not be completely crisp when cool, nor will they come off the foil easily.
Slide the foil sheets onto racks and let the cookies cool completely before removing them. Or, if using silicone mats, transfer the hot cookies to a rack to cool.
To retain crispness, put the cookies in an airtight container as soon as they are cool. They may be stored airtight for at least 1 month.
Substitute ⅓ cup (25 grams) unsweetened dried shredded coconut for the almonds.
Part of a great eastern European Jewish baking tradition, rugelach, though considered cookies, are really miniature pastries: flaky cream cheese dough rolled up around cinnamon sugar, jam, currants, and nuts (the traditional filling), or fanciful variations that may include bits of chocolate or cacao nibs or whatever good things a baker might have on hand. Not surprisingly, the oat flour is a perfect flavor partner for the fruits, nuts, and spices in this recipe and all of the variations. Makes 48 cookies
½ pound (2 sticks/225 grams) unsalted butter, cold
1⅓ cups (200 grams) white rice flour or 2 cups (200 grams) Thai white rice flour, plus more for rolling
1¾ cups (175 grams) oat flour
8 ounces (225 grams) cream cheese
2 tablespoons (25 grams) sugar
1 teaspoon xanthan gum
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ cup water
¾ cup (235 grams) thick apricot jam or preserves
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup (225 grams) finely chopped walnuts
½ cup (65 grams) chopped dried apricots
Salt
Cinnamon sugar: 2 tablespoons sugar mixed with ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Box grater
Stand mixer with paddle attachment or handheld mixer
Rolling pin
Baking sheets, lined with parchment paper or foil
To make the dough, using the largest holes on a box (or other) grater, grate the butter onto a plate lined with wax paper. Refrigerate until needed.
Combine the rice and oat flours in a bowl and mix thoroughly with a whisk.
In the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attachment or in a large bowl with a handheld mixer, mix the cream cheese, sugar, xanthan gum, baking soda, salt, and water for about 2 minutes on medium speed. The mixture will look wet and stretchy.
Add the flour mixture and beat on low speed until the mixture resembles coarse bread crumbs (it will not be smooth). Sprinkle the shredded butter into the bowl and mix on low speed to break the butter shreds into bits and distribute them. The mixture will resemble loose crumbs, sticking together only when pinched. If necessary, sprinkle and mix in another tablespoon of water. Do not try to form a cohesive dough. Divide the mixture into quarters. Dump one-quarter in the center of a sheet of plastic wrap. Bring the sides of the wrap up around the mixture on all sides, pressing firmly to form a 5-inch square patty. Wrap the patty tightly. Repeat with the remaining 3 portions of dough. Refrigerate the patties until firm, at least 2 hours and up to 3 days.
Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.
Remove 1 piece of dough from the refrigerator. If necessary, let it stand until pliable enough to roll, but not too soft. Roll between sheets of wax paper or parchment paper into a 12-inch round a scant ⅛ inch thick. Slide the wax paper and dough onto a baking sheet and refrigerate. Repeat with the remaining pieces of dough, stacking them in the refrigerator. Chill the dough for at least 15 minutes. Meanwhile, pulse the preserves in a food processor if there are large pieces of fruit and stir in the cinnamon.
Set one piece of dough on the counter and peel off the top sheet of wax paper and turn it clean side up on the counter or a cutting board. Dust the dough very lightly with a little rice flour and flip it onto the paper and peel off the second sheet. Spread one-quarter of the preserves over the dough and sprinkle with one-quarter of the walnuts, one-quarter of the apricots, and a tiny pinch of salt. Cut the dough like a pie into 12 equal wedges. Roll the wide outside edge up around the filling toward the point, brushing off any excess rice flour as you go. Place the roll, with the dough point underneath to prevent it from unrolling, on a lined baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining wedges, placing cookies 1½ inches apart. If at times the dough becomes too soft to roll, return it to the refrigerator to firm up. Fill, cut, and roll the remaining pieces of dough. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar.
Bake for 18 to 20 minutes, until the cookies are golden brown at the edges and deep brown on the bottom. Rotate the sheets from top to bottom and from front to back halfway through the baking time to ensure even baking. Set the pans or just the liners on racks to cool. Let the rugelach cool completely before staking or storing. Rugelach are always most exquisite on the day they are baked, but they remain delicious, stored in an airtight container, for about 5 days.
Blueberry Walnut Rugelach
Omit the apricot preserves. Mix the walnuts and cinnamon with 2 tablespoons (25 grams) granulated sugar, ½ cup (100 grams) packed brown sugar, and ½ cup dried blueberries (or substitute currants). Sprinkle one-quarter of the mixture over each round of dough, and roll over the filling with a rolling pin to press it gently into the dough before cutting into wedges. Sprinkle with salt, roll up, and bake as directed.
Chocolate-Hazelnut Rugelach
Combine ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar, 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract, 1 cup (225 grams) finely chopped toasted and skinned hazelnuts, and 1 cup (170 grams) miniature chocolate chips. Use in place of the apricot filling as follows: Sprinkle one-quarter of the mixture over each round of dough, and roll over the filling with a rolling pin to press it gently into the dough before cutting into wedges. Sprinkle with salt, roll up, and bake as directed.
Cacao Nib Rugelach
Combine 2 tablespoons (25 grams) granulated sugar, ½ cup (100 grams) packed light brown sugar, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, ½ cup (70 grams) dried currants, and ½ cup (55 grams) roughly chopped cacao nibs for the walnuts. Use in place of the apricot filling as follows: Sprinkle one-quarter of the mixture over each round of dough, and roll over the filling with a rolling pin to press it gently into the dough before cutting into wedges. Sprinkle with salt, roll up, and bake as directed.
These oatmeal cookies—made with oats and oat flour—are truly for oat lovers! You can adjust the chewiness of your cookie by mixing the batter more or mixing it less. Baking them on foil (instead of parchment) or directly on a greased pan produces some lovely crunchy edges on these otherwise chewy cookies. Makes about thirty-two 3½-inch cookies
1¼ cups (125 grams) oat flour
2 cups (190 grams) rolled oats
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
¾ teaspoon xanthan gum
½ pound (2 sticks/225 grams) unsalted butter, melted
¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar
¾ cup (150 grams) packed light brown sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs
Generous 1 cup (115 grams) coarsely chopped or broken walnut pieces
1 cup (140 grams) raisins
Baking sheets, lined with foil (dull side up) or greased
Combine the oat flour, rolled oats, salt, baking soda, and xanthan gum in a medium bowl and whisk until blended.
In a large bowl, mix the butter, sugars, cinnamon, nutmeg, and vanilla. Whisk in the eggs. Stir in the oat mixture and mix the batter briskly with a spatula for about 1 minute (to activate the binding power of the xanthan gum—the more you mix, the chewier and less crunchy the cookies will be). Stir in the nuts and raisins. Let the dough stand for at least 1 but preferably 2 hours or (better still) cover and refrigerate overnight.
Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F.
Scoop 2 tablespoons of the dough per cookie and place 2 inches apart on the lined or greased baking sheets. Bake for 16 to 20 minutes, until the cookies are deep golden brown. Rotate the sheets from top to bottom and from front to back halfway through the baking time to ensure even baking. For lined pans, set the pans or just the liners on racks to cool; for unlined pans, use a metal spatula to transfer the cookies to racks. Cool the cookies completely before stacking or storing. They may be kept in an airtight container for several days.
The flavor of oat flour is so perfect with the ginger and other warm spices in these easy one-bowl cookies, I can’t believe I didn’t think of using this combination sooner. These new ginger cookies may become your favorites! Makes about 50 cookies
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
⅓ cup (65 grams) packed brown sugar
2½ teaspoons ground ginger
1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground allspice
2 teaspoons baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
¼ cup (85 grams) unsulfured mild or full-flavored molasses (not blackstrap)
8 tablespoons (1 stick/115 grams) unsalted butter, melted and kept lukewarm
2 large egg whites
2¾ cups (275 grams) oat flour
1½ cups (225 grams/8 ounces) ginger chips or crystallized ginger, cut into ¼-inch dice, shaken in a coarse strainer to remove loose sugar
About ½ cup (100 grams) granulated or coarse sugar, such as turbinado, for rolling
Baking sheets, lined with parchment paper or unlined and ungreased
If you are baking the cookies right away, position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.
In a medium bowl, mix the ½ cup granulated sugar, the brown sugar, ground ginger, cinnamon, allspice, baking soda, salt, molasses, butter, and egg whites until blended. Stir in the flour.
When the flour is no longer visible, beat the dough briskly with a spatula or a wooden spoon, about 40 strokes, to aerate it slightly. Stir in the ginger chips. The dough will be very soft. If possible, chill the dough for an hour or two to firm it up, or (better still) cover and refrigerate it overnight for the best flavor and texture.
Form the dough into 1-inch balls (15 grams each). Roll the balls in granulated or coarse sugar and place them 2 inches apart on the lined or ungreased baking sheets. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, or until the cookies puff up and crack on the surface and then begin to deflate in the oven. Rotate the sheets from top to bottom and from back to front halfway through the baking time to ensure even baking. For chewier cookies, remove them from the oven when at least half or more of the cookies have begun to deflate; for crunchier edges with chewy centers, bake for a minute or so longer.
For lined pans, set the pans or just the liners on racks to cool; for unlined pans, use a metal spatula to transfer the cookies to racks. Cool the cookies completely before storing. They may be kept in an airtight container for several days.
Substitute ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (175 grams) light or dark brown sugar for the granulated and brown sugar in the dough. Substitute ½ teaspoon ground cloves for the allspice. Substitute 1 large egg for the egg whites. Omit the ginger chips. Makes about 40 cookies.
Oat and brown rice flours give these cookies extra butterscotch flavor—and a beautiful butterscotch color as well. You will love the buttery, crunchy edges and delicate cakey interiors. Most guests are likely to think you’ve simply gone and made some really good chocolate chip cookies; they’ll be hard put to identify the particulars! And if you know people who cannot eat wheat but long for a remembered treat, these are for them as well. Resting the dough overnight—or for at least a couple hours—makes these cookies especially good. Makes about sixty 3½-inch cookies
1¼ cups (125 grams) oat flour
1 cup (135 grams) brown rice flour
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (65 grams) potato starch
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon baking soda
¾ teaspoon xanthan gum
½ pound (2 sticks/225 grams) unsalted butter, melted
¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar
¾ cup (150 grams) packed dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs
2 cups (340 grams) chocolate chips or chunks or hand-chopped chocolate
1 cup (100 grams) walnuts or pecans, coarsely chopped
Baking sheets, lined with foil (dull side up) or greased
Combine the flours, potato starch, salt, baking soda, and xanthan gum in a medium bowl and mix thoroughly with a whisk.
In a large bowl, mix the melted butter, sugars, and vanilla. Whisk in the eggs. Stir in the flour mixture. With a rubber spatula, mix the batter briskly for about 45 seconds (to activate the binding power of the xanthan gum—the more you mix, the chewier and less crunchy the cookies will be). Stir in the chocolate chips and nuts. If possible, let the dough stand for 1 to 2 hours or (better still) cover and refrigerate overnight.
Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.
Scoop 2 tablespoons of dough per cookie and place 2 inches apart on the lined or greased baking sheets. Bake until the cookies are golden brown, 12 to 14 minutes. Rotate the pans from top to bottom and from front to back halfway through the baking time to ensure even baking. For lined pans, set the pans or just the liners on racks to cool; for unlined pans, use a metal spatula to transfer the cookies to racks. Cool the cookies completely before stacking or storing. They may be kept in an airtight container for several days.
Pecan Spice Cookies
Add 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon, ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg, ½ teaspoon ground cloves, and ½ teaspoon ground ginger with the sugar. Omit the chocolate chips and use 2 cups (200 grams) lightly toasted pecan pieces for the nuts.
Nibby Nut and Raisin Cookies
Omit the chocolate chips. Add 1 cup (140 grams) raisins and ⅔ cup (75 grams) roasted cacao nibs with the walnuts.
These are splendid plain cookies—even more buttery and flavorful than traditional butter cookies made with all-purpose wheat flour. They have a perfect melt-in-your-mouth sandy texture and a gentle nuance of oat flavor. They are easy slice-and-bake cookies, but you can also roll out the dough and cut shapes for a child’s party or holiday cookie decorating (click here). As plain and good as they are, feel free to embellish with chopped nuts or cocoa nibs, or try any of the other six “modern” combinations that follow. Makes about thirty-six 2½-inch cookies
1¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons (140 grams) oat flour
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (55 grams) white rice flour or ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (55 grams) Thai white rice flour
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon baking soda
⅔ cup (130 grams) sugar
¼ cup (60 grams) cream cheese, cut into chunks
12 tablespoons (1½ sticks/170 grams) unsalted butter, softened and cut into chunks
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Food processor fitted with the steel blade (optional)
Baking sheets, lined with parchment paper
To make the dough by hand, put the oat flour, rice flour, salt, and baking soda in a large bowl and whisk until thoroughly blended. Add the sugar, cream cheese, butter, and vanilla. Use a fork or the back of a large spoon to mash and mix the ingredients together until all are blended into a smooth, soft dough.
To make the dough in a food processor, put the oat flour, rice flour, salt, and baking soda in the food processor. Pulse to blend. Add the sugar, cream cheese, butter, and vanilla. Pulse until the mixture forms a smooth, soft dough. Scrape the bowl and blend in any stray flour at the bottom with your fingers.
Divide the dough between two sheets of wax paper and form two 8-inch logs about 1½ inches in diameter. Wrap them tightly in the wax paper and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, but preferably longer or overnight. The dough may be frozen for up to 3 months.
Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F.
Use a sharp knife to cut the cold dough log into ¼-inch-thick slices. Place the cookies at least 1½ inches apart on the lined baking sheets. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the cookies are golden brown at the edges and well browned on the bottom. The tops will remain fairly pale. Rotate the pans from top to bottom and from front to back halfway through the baking time to ensure even baking.
Set the pans or just the liners on racks to cool. Cool the cookies completely before stacking or storing. They may be kept in an airtight container for at least 2 weeks.
Nutty Oat Sablés
Add 1 to 1½ cups (140 to 200 grams) of any raw or toasted nuts to the dough: If mixing by hand, add them to the dough at the end. If using a food processor, add nuts whole with the dry ingredients and pulse until they are the desired consistency.
Nibby Oat Sablés
Add a generous ¼ cup (35 grams) roasted cacao nibs to the dough with the butter.
Grapefruit and Basil Sablés
Omit the vanilla and add 1½ teaspoons finely grated grapefruit zest and 1½ teaspoons finely chopped fresh basil leaves with the butter.
Orange-Saffron Sablés
Omit the vanilla and add 1½ teaspoons finely grated orange zest and ¾ teaspoon loosely packed crumbled saffron threads with the butter.
Orange Sablés with Ancho Chile
Omit the vanilla and add 1½ teaspoons finely grated orange zest and 1½ teaspoons crumbled or powdered dried ancho chile with the butter.
Chai Sablés
Add 2 teaspoons pulverized chai (from a package of loose chai or from the contents of 2 to 3 chai tea bags) with the butter.
Lime and Mint Sablés
For a little mojito flavor, omit the vanilla and add 1½ teaspoons finely grated lime zest and 1½ teaspoons finely chopped fresh mint leaves with the butter.
Spicy Basil Sablés
Omit the vanilla and add 1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon and 1½ teaspoons finely chopped fresh basil leaves with the butter.
When you need simple tasty cutout cookies for a child’s party or a themed occasion, these are a sure thing. To decorate, simply sprinkle the cookies with colored sugar before baking, or bake and cool the cookies first and then ice them—or pipe melted chocolate on them—before affixing sugars, sprinkles, miniature candies, and so on. Makes about thirty-six 2½-inch cookies
Oat Sablés dough (see recipe)
Oat flour for cutting out the cookies
Colored sugars for sprinkling (optional)
Rolling pin
Cookie cutters
Baking sheets, lined with parchment paper
Mix the dough for Oat Sablés as directed and form it into 2 flat patties. Wrap and refrigerate the dough for at least 2 hours, and preferably overnight (see Note).
Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F.
Remove 1 patty from the refrigerator and let it sit at room temperature briefly, until supple enough to roll but still quite firm. It will continue to soften as you work. Roll the dough between two pieces of wax paper, or between heavy plastic sheets from a plastic bag, to a thickness of ⅛ inch. Turn the dough over once or twice while rolling it out to check for deep wrinkles; if necessary, peel off and smooth the paper or plastic over the dough before continuing to roll it. When the dough is thin enough, peel off the top sheet of paper or plastic and keep it in front of you. (If the dough is sticky, dust it with a little oat flour.) Invert the dough onto the sheet in front of you and peel off the second sheet.
Cut cookie shapes as close together as possible to minimize scraps, dipping the edges of cookie cutters in oat flour as necessary to prevent sticking. Use the point of a paring knife to lift and remove scraps as you transfer cookies to the baking sheets. Place the cookies ½ inch apart. If the dough gets too soft at any time—while rolling, cutting, removing scraps between cookies, or transferring cookies—slide a baking sheet underneath the paper or plastic and refrigerate the dough for a few minutes until firm. Repeat with the second piece of dough.
Press all of the dough scraps together gently and reroll them as necessary. (Don’t worry that rerolling scraps will produce tough cookies.) Sprinkle the cookies with colored sugars if desired, and pat to adhere.
Bake for 8 to 12 minutes, until golden brown at the edges but deep brown on the bottom, rotating the baking sheets from top to bottom and from front to back halfway through the baking time to ensure even baking. Repeat until all the cookies are baked.
Set the pans or just the liners on racks to cool. Cool completely before icing, stacking, or storing. The cookies may be kept in an airtight container for at least 2 weeks.
Note: Instead of chilling the dough first and rolling it later, you can roll the freshly made dough gently (it will be very soft) between sheets of wax paper immediately, and then stack and refrigerate the rolled-out dough on a baking sheet for at least 2 hours or until needed.
These thumbprint cookies are actually a filled version of ultra-tender, not-too-sweet Russian tea cakes, which are remarkably similar to Mexican wedding cakes or those divine crescent-shaped Austrian cookies made with almonds or hazelnuts instead of walnuts or pecans. The combination of rice and oat flours makes these especially tender and flavorful. To make tea cakes or wedding cakes instead of thumbprints, skip the “poking” and filling steps and just dust the cookies with powdered sugar. Makes thirty-six to forty 1½-inch cookies
1½ cups (150 grams) walnuts or pecans
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (55 grams) white rice flour or ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (55 grams) Thai white rice flour
1¼ cups plus 2 tablespoons (140 grams) oat flour
¼ teaspoon salt
⅛ teaspoon baking soda
⅓ cup (65 grams) granulated sugar
¼ cup (60 grams) cream cheese, cold, cut into chunks
12 tablespoons (1½ sticks/170 grams) unsalted butter, slightly softened and cut into chunks
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
¼ cup (20 grams) powdered sugar for dusting
Food processor fitted with the steel blade
Baking sheets, lined with parchment paper
Fine-mesh strainer
Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F.
Combine the nuts, rice and oat flours, salt, baking soda, and granulated sugar in a food processor. Pulse until the nuts are coarsely chopped. Add the cream cheese, butter, and vanilla. Process just until the dough forms a ball around the blade.
Shape slightly rounded tablespoons of dough into 1-inch balls. Place the cookies at least 1½ inches apart on the lined or greased pans. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until golden brown on the bottom. Rotate the pans from top to bottom and from front to back halfway through the baking time to ensure even baking. As soon as the cookies are out of the oven, press the handle of a wooden spoon about halfway into the center of each one.
Set the pans or just the liners on racks to finish cooling. Let the cookies cool completely before storing. Unfilled cookies may be kept in an airtight container for at least 2 weeks. Use the strainer to dust the cookies with powdered sugar, and fill with any chocolate frosting or Nutella; alternatively, shortly before serving, fill with jam, preserves, Lemon Curd (see recipe), or purchased dulce de leche or cajeta.
Walnut or Pecan Sablés
Any nut variation of this cookie makes divine sandwich cookies, filled with store-bought dulce de leche or cajeta. You can substitute an equal volume of almonds or hazelnuts for the walnuts or pecans, making almond or hazelnut sablés, if desired. Make the dough as directed but process the nuts until finely ground, rather than coarsely chopped. Form the dough into a 10- to 12-inch log 2 inches in diameter. Wrap well and chill for at least 2 hours or overnight. Slice into scant ¼-inch-thick slices and place them 1½ inches apart on the pan. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until golden brown at the edges and deep brown underneath. Cool as directed. Serve plain or sandwich 2 cookies with a generous dab of dulce de leche or cajeta. Filled cookies will soften as they stand, but they are good crunchy or soft. Filled cookies keep in an airtight container for at least a week.