Rice flour is deceptive—seemingly neutral and bland, it can be breathtaking, even exotic, in the simplest of cakes. It is sometimes used for its own subtle, slightly floral flavor, but it more often supports other ingredients. You’ll find recipes using three types of rice flour here (and in other chapters in a supporting role); each type has different qualities.
White rice flour is milled from short- or long-grain rice with the bran and germ removed. As such, it is mostly starch and has a very subtle flavor with light floral and cream notes. It may be coarsely or finely ground (click here for a discussion), and this can affect the texture of the finished dessert—finer flour yields a silkier texture in high-moisture dishes such as pudding and ice cream, and also hydrates faster in dishes with less moisture such as scones, giving a less crumbly crumb and better structure. Rice flour has a tendency to compact substantially in the bag, which causes volume measures to vary wildly in weight—one more good reason to use a scale for measuring! White rice flour is invaluable; it is the perfect supporting actor when you want to taste the other ingredients in the recipe, which is often the case: when we rave about the flavor of a delectable cake, we say it’s deliciously buttery or chocolaty or lemony, not deliciously floury. White rice flour often helps to amplify other ingredients, making them taste more like themselves. In this chapter, those other things are light, subtle flavors such as butter, cream, milk, and eggs, and bold, assertive flavors such as chocolate. In the recipes in the following chapters, the neutrality of rice flour is used to highlight the flavor of the other flours.
Glutinous rice flour (aka sweet rice flour) is white rice flour milled from sticky, or “sweet,” rice and, despite its name, does not contain gluten. Fans of Japanese food may know sweet rice flour as the main ingredient in mochi. Like white rice flour, it is a flavor-neutral foil for other ingredients, but it is particularly useful for its ability to retain a satisfying chewiness for days without becoming stale. Sweet rice flour is the secret ingredient that keeps Beignets (see recipe) fresh enough to reheat successfully.
Brown rice flour has much of the neutrality of white rice flour, plus a light graininess and toasty and delicious caramel flavor. The bran and germ in this whole-grain flour also mitigate white rice flour’s tendency toward gumminess. Brown rice flour does perform better with time for hydration—when it is baked immediately in a recipe with a small amount of moisture, it can have a bit of grittiness. Normally typecast as a “health food” ingredient, brown rice flour makes a moist and delicious sponge cake (see recipe) and decadent brownies (click here and here).
Accentuates all other flavors, including butter, milk, cream, eggs, and chocolate.
Rice flours are available in Asian groceries, in better supermarkets in the specialty flour section of the baking aisle, in health food stores, and online from Authentic Foods or Bob’s Red Mill (see Resources). Brown rice flour is a whole grain and should be stored in an airtight container, away from heat and light, for 2 to 3 months at room temperature, or for 6 months in the refrigerator and up to 12 months in the freezer. White rice flour and glutinous (sweet rice) flours are not whole-grain flours, and therefore keep well in a sealed container at room temperature for at least 12 months.
Imagine a cake as light and moist and ethereal as angel food but with a more intriguing flavor and far less sugary sweetness. What a dreamy surprise! Just when I thought rice was simply a neutral background for more interesting or assertive flavors, this cake steals the show with its pristine and subtle rice flavor. Try it with slightly sweetened sliced strawberries and plain or Rose Whipped Cream (see recipe), or with sliced mangoes or pineapple. When you want a change, consider adding fragrant cardamom, saffron, or citrus zest. Serves 10 to 12
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (224 grams) sugar
5 large egg yolks, at room temperature
¾ cup cool water
½ cup flavorless vegetable oil (such as rice bran, corn, or safflower oil)
1⅓ cups (200 grams) white rice flour or 2 cups (200 grams) Thai white rice flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
8 large egg whites, at room temperature
½ teaspoon cream of tartar
Stand mixer with whisk attachment
10-inch tube pan with removable bottom, ungreased
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F.
Set aside ¼ cup (50 grams) of the sugar for later (to stiffen the egg whites).
In a large bowl, combine the remaining sugar, egg yolks, water, oil, rice flour, baking powder, and salt. Whisk until thoroughly blended. Set aside.
In the bowl of the stand mixer, beat the egg whites and cream of tartar with the whisk attachment on medium-high speed until the mixture is creamy white and holds a soft shape. Slowly sprinkle in the reserved sugar, beating on high speed until the egg whites are stiff but not dry. Scrape one-quarter of the egg whites onto the batter and use a rubber spatula to fold them in. Fold in the remaining egg whites. Scrape the batter into the pan and spread it evenly.
Bake for 50 to 55 minutes, until the top of the cake is golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
Set the pan on a rack. While the cake is still hot, slide a thin knife or spatula around the sides, pressing against the pan to avoid tearing the cake. Leave the cake in the pan to cool—it will settle at least 1 inch.
When cool, lift the tube to remove the cake. Slide a thin knife or skewer around the tube and slide a spatula under the cake all around. Lift the cake off the bottom of the pan using two spatulas (one on either side of the tube) and transfer it to a serving platter. The cake keeps, wrapped airtight, at room temperature for at least 3 days, or in the freezer for up to 3 months; bring to room temperature before serving. Slice with a serrated knife.
Lemon Rice Chiffon Cake
Grate the zest of a medium lemon on top of the batter before folding in the egg whites.
Orange Rice Chiffon Cake
Substitute ¾ cup orange juice for the water and grate the zest of 1 medium orange on top of the batter before folding in the egg whites.
Cardamom and Saffron Rice Chiffon Cake
Using a mortar and pestle, pulverize the seeds from 8 cardamom pods (or use ½ teaspoon ground cardamom) and 25 threads of saffron (scant 1/16 teaspoon finely chopped or crushed). Add to the batter before folding in the egg whites.
Of course you could serve this buttery sponge cake plain (or splashed with a little sweetened espresso or coffee liqueur) and topped with strawberries and whipped cream. But the brown rice flour adds a delicate caramel flavor to the cake, so why not run with it? This riff on the traditional Latin American tres leches—sponge cake drenched in a combo of heavy cream, sweetened condensed milk, and evaporated milk—is less sweet and less drenched than the authentic version, but a terrific variation nonetheless. The warm or cooled cake is poked with a chopstick or the not-too-thick handle of a wooden spoon and then soaked with a sauce of dulce de leche and evaporated milk. The third “milk” is whipped cream on top. More sauce is passed separately at table. What could be more delicious? Serves 10 to 12
6 tablespoons (85 grams) Clarified Butter (see recipe) or ghee (click here)
¾ cup (100 grams) brown rice flour, preferably superfine
⅔ cup (130 grams) sugar
4 large eggs
⅛ teaspoon salt
1 can (12 ounces) evaporated milk
1 generous cup (350 grams) purchased dulce de leche or cajeta
⅛ teaspoon salt
Whipped Cream (see recipe), unsweetened or very lightly sweetened
8-by-2-inch round cake pan
Stand mixer with whisk attachment
Sifter or medium-mesh strainer
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper, but do not grease the sides of the pan.
Put the clarified butter in a small pot or microwavable container ready to reheat when needed, and have a 4- to 5-cup bowl ready to pour it into as well—the bowl must be big enough to allow you to fold some batter into the butter later.
Whisk the flour and 2 tablespoons of the sugar together thoroughly in a medium bowl.
Combine the remaining sugar, eggs, and salt in the bowl of the stand mixer and beat with the whisk attachment on high speed for at least 5 minutes. The mixture should be light colored and tripled in volume, and you should see well-defined tracks as the whisk spins; when the whisk is lifted, the mixture should fall in a thick, fluffy rope that dissolves slowly on the surface of the batter.
Just before the eggs are ready, heat the clarified butter until very hot and pour it into the reserved bowl.
Remove the bowl from the mixer. Sift one-third of the flour over the eggs. Fold with a large rubber spatula until the flour is almost blended into the batter. Repeat with half of the remaining flour. Repeat with the rest of the flour. Scrape about a quarter of the batter into the hot butter. Fold until the butter is completely blended into the batter. Scrape the buttery batter over the remaining batter and fold just until blended. Scrape the batter into the pan.
Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the cake is golden brown on top. It will have puffed up and then settled level, but it won’t have pulled away from the sides of the pan and a toothpick inserted in the center will come out clean and dry. Set the pan on a rack. While the cake is still hot, run a small spatula around the inside of the pan, pressing against the sides of the pan to avoid tearing the cake.
At your convenience (the cake can be warm or completely cool), invert the pan to remove the cake and peel off the parchment liner. Turn the cake right side up. (The cake should be completely cool before storing.) The cake may be wrapped airtight and stored at room temperature for 2 days, or frozen for up to 3 months.
To assemble the cake, an hour (or up to several hours) before serving, set the cake (cooled or warm) on a rimmed serving platter and poke holes 1 inch apart all over it with a chopstick or a thin wooden spoon handle. Make the sauce by stirring the evaporated milk, dulce de leche, and salt together until smooth. Spoon 1½ to 2 cups of the sauce over the cake, a little at a time, allowing it to be absorbed. Use the greater quantity if you want a more soaked cake, or let some of the delicious cake remain dry. Either way, pass the extra sauce at the table. Make sure the cake is completely cool before topping it with swirls of unsweetened or very lightly sweetened whipped cream, leaving the sides bare. Refrigerate the cake in a covered container or under a cake dome. Leftover cake keeps in the refrigerator for a few days.
This simple cake roll is sweet and tart and yummy to start with—but extra pretty and tempting with its refreshing little salad of minty strawberries and micro-diced jicama (for added crunch). The cake is a very basic white rice sponge (see box); you could substitute ¾ cup (100 grams) brown rice flour, preferably superfine, for the white rice flour for a less neutral cake with hints of caramel. Serves 10 to 12
6 tablespoons (85 grams) Clarified Butter (see recipe) or ghee (click here)
⅔ cup (100 grams) white rice flour or 1 cup (100 grams) Thai white rice flour
⅔ cup (130 grams) granulated sugar
4 large eggs
⅛ teaspoon salt
1 cup Lemon Curd (see recipe)
1 cup heavy cream
½ teaspoon pure vanilla extract
Powdered sugar for dusting
1 pint (230 grams) strawberries
½ cup (65 grams) finely diced (¼-inch) jicama
About ¼ cup (6 grams) loosely packed chopped fresh mint leaves
2 teaspoons sugar, or more to taste
Tiny pinch of salt
Lemon juice
16-by-12-by-1-inch half sheet pan or 11-by-17-inch jelly roll pan
Stand mixer with whisk attachment
Sifter or medium-mesh strainer
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper, but do not grease the sides of the pan.
Put the clarified butter in a small pot or microwavable container ready to reheat when needed, and have a 4- to 5-cup bowl ready to pour it into as well—the bowl must be big enough to allow you to fold some batter into the butter later.
Whisk the flour and 2 tablespoons of the granulated sugar together thoroughly in a medium bowl.
Combine the remaining granulated sugar, eggs, and salt in the bowl of the stand mixer and beat with the whisk attachment on high speed for 4 to 5 minutes. The mixture should be light colored and tripled in volume, and you should see well-defined tracks as the whisk spins; when the whisk is lifted, the mixture should fall in a thick, fluffy rope that dissolves slowly on the surface of the batter.
Just before the eggs are ready, heat the clarified butter until very hot and pour it into the reserved bowl.
Remove the bowl from the mixer. Sift one-third of the flour over the eggs. Fold with a large rubber spatula until the flour is almost blended into the batter. Repeat with half of the remaining flour. Repeat with the rest of the flour. Scrape about a quarter of the batter into the hot butter. Fold until the butter is completely blended into the batter. Scrape the buttery batter over the remaining batter and fold just until blended. Scrape the batter into the pan and spread it evenly with an offset spatula, using as few strokes as possible to avoid deflating the batter.
Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the top is golden brown and springs back when gently pressed with your fingers. Set the pan on a rack to cool completely before filling.
Run a knife around the edges of the pan to detach the cake. Cover the cake with a sheet of wax paper and set a baking sheet on top. Hold the pans together and flip them over. Remove the top pan and peel the parchment off the sponge. Cover the cake with a sheet of foil, top with the baking sheet, flip the whole business over again, and remove the baking sheet. The cake should be right side up on the sheet of foil.
Spread the surface of the cake evenly with the lemon curd. Whip the cream and vanilla in a chilled bowl until almost stiff. Spread the cream over the lemon curd. Start rolling the cake at one short end by folding the edge of the cake about ½ inch over the cream. Continue to roll the cake, using the foil beneath it to help you. Roll the cake gently but tightly, as though it were a sleeping bag, to keep the roll as cylindrical as possible. When the roll is complete, wrap it in the foil and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 2 days before serving.
Make the salad shortly before serving: Cut the strawberries in half and cut each half into two to four pieces, depending on the size of the berries. In a small bowl, toss the strawberries with the jicama, mint, sugar, salt, and a few drops of lemon juice to taste.
To serve, remove the foil from the roulade and slide the cake onto a platter. Sieve a little powdered sugar over it. Serve slices with a spoonful of the salad.
16-by-12-inch white rice sponge sheet, baked and cooled in the pan
1½ cups Lemon Curd (see recipe)
½ cup (55 grams) sliced almonds, toasted
Powdered sugar for dusting
Remove the cake from the pan, peel the liner, and turn the cake right side (brown side) up on a sheet of foil as described here. Set aside ¼ cup of the lemon curd (cover and refrigerate it if not finishing the roulades right away). Spread the rest of the curd over the cake. Cut the cake into 5 equal strips, each about 3¼ inches wide and 11 to 12 inches long. Cut the strips in half so that you have 10 short strips, each 5½ to 6 inches long. Roll each strip into an individual jelly roll. Roulades may be made to this point and refrigerated, covered, for up to 2 days. In any case, they are easier to handle if they have been refrigerated for at least an hour before finishing.
To finish the roulades, spread the ends of each roulade with any lemon curd that may have oozed out, plus some of the reserved curd, as needed. Put the almonds in a flat dish and press the ends of each roulade into them. You can serve the roulades immediately or cover and refrigerate them until you are ready. Just before serving, sieve a little powdered sugar over each roulade.
The plain sponge cake known as génoise is the workhorse of classic French baking. It is normally on the dry side, all the better for soaking with flavored syrup and filling with rich buttercreams or mousses. White rice génoise may at first seem like the least interesting cake in this entire collection. But in fact it makes a great all-purpose génoise, because it has a very delicate neutral flavor with a nice hint of butter. In comparison to wheat flour, rice flour allows more butter flavor to come forward so you literally get more butter flavor for your buck. You can substitute it for the traditional plain génoise throughout the classic repertoire of French layer cakes, or gâteaux—well beyond the scope of desserts included in this book. For a slightly softer crumb, try a combination of clarified butter and flavorless vegetable oil. In the preceding roulade recipe, it is used as a thin sponge sheet. To make a round cake instead, bake the batter for 30 to 35 minutes in an 8-by-2-inch round cake pan lined with parchment on the bottom, sides ungreased. This is a versatile cake indeed.
The aroma when frying these beignets is the first clue that they taste gloriously of yeast, butter, and eggs. Powdered or cinnamon sugar is always a good finish, or go overboard and coat them with bittersweet chocolate glaze. Do try the technique for reheating; they are just as good as freshly fried without the last-minute attention. The sweet rice flour holds moisture in these doughnuts and makes them slightly chewy. It also helps them stay fresher longer and reheat splendidly. Makes 3 dozen beignets
2 tablespoons very warm (105°F to 115°F) water
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon active dry yeast
½ cup water
4 tablespoons (½ stick/55 grams) unsalted butter
½ teaspoon salt
⅔ cup (100 grams) glutinous rice flour or ¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (100 grams) Thai glutinous rice flour
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon (60 grams) white rice flour or ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (60 grams) Thai white rice flour
3 large eggs
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 to 1½ quarts vegetable oil, such as peanut or corn
½ cup (55 grams) powdered sugar
Stand mixer with paddle attachment
Deep-fat fryer or medium (2- to 3-quart) saucepan
Frying thermometer
Combine the warm water, 1 teaspoon granulated sugar, and yeast in a small bowl and set aside.
Combine the 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, ½ cup water, butter, and salt in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Add about half of the glutinous rice flour and all of the white rice flour and stir with a long-handled metal or wooden spoon until smooth. Turn the heat to low and push the dough around the pan for 2 more minutes, turning it over in the pan to avoid scorching. Scrape the dough into the mixer bowl. Break the eggs into the still-hot saucepan and swirl to warm them.
With the mixer on medium speed, add the eggs one at a time, beating after each is added until the dough is glossy and smooth. When all of the eggs are added, scrape down the sides of the bowl and add the yeast mixture, vanilla, and the remaining glutinous rice flour. Mix on medium speed until very smooth and elastic.
Pour oil to a depth of about 2 inches in the deep-fat fryer or saucepan and heat to 350°F. Using two spoons or a small spring-loaded scoop, place 1½-teaspoon-sized lumps of batter in the oil. Do not crowd the pan or fryer; each lump of batter will expand about eightfold. After a minute or so, use long-handled tongs to turn the beignets. Fry until very brown on all sides, 3 to 5 minutes. If necessary to test doneness, cut a beignet in half. Drain on a cake rack; repeat with the remaining batter.
To serve immediately, roll the beignets in powdered sugar (see Note). To serve later, reheat the beignets for 5 minutes in a 400°F oven and then roll in powdered sugar. Beignets may be stored, loosely covered with a paper towel, at room temperature for up to 2 days before reheating.
Note: The easiest and tidiest way to roll beignets in spiced sugar or powdered sugar without getting your hands in the mix is to pile the beignets in a medium lightweight metal (not plastic) bowl with the sugar and tumble them gently back and forth into another lightweight bowl, until all are coated.
Beignets with Cinnamon Sugar
Substitute 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon mixed with ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar for the powdered sugar.
Chocolate-Glazed Beignets
Omit the powdered sugar and dip warm beignets in chocolate glaze: Boil 1¼ cups water and 2¼ cups (450 grams) sugar together until the sugar dissolves. Add 3 cups (510 grams) semisweet or bittersweet chocolate chips all at once; let rest for 5 minutes, then add 3 tablespoons vegetable oil and stir until smooth. Use a slotted spoon to dip the beignets in the glaze and set them on a rack until the glaze is set.
Crispy, crunchy almond cookies are elegantly thin and buttery. They partner perfectly with creamy desserts like custards, pudding, and ice cream. Rice flour plays a neutral role here, allowing the flavor of butter and almonds to shine. Classic tuiles are cooled over a rolling pin (see the sidebar here for methods, including a shortcut) to make them resemble the roof tiles they are named for, but you can also skip that step and make them flat. Makes about forty 3-inch cookies
4 tablespoons (½ stick/55 grams) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing the foil
2 large egg whites
2 teaspoons water
½ cup (100 grams) sugar
3 tablespoons (30 grams) white rice flour or scant ⅓ cup (30 grams) Thai white rice flour
¼ teaspoon pure almond extract
Scant ½ teaspoon salt
⅔ cup (70 grams) sliced almonds
2 baking sheets
Silicone baking mats (optional)
Rolling pin or small cups for shaping (optional); see box
Line the baking sheets with regular foil (dull side facing up) or silicone mats and grease the foil or silicone lightly but thoroughly, or line the sheets with nonstick foil, nonstick side up (see Note).
In a medium bowl, mix the egg whites with the water, sugar, rice flour, almond extract, and salt until well blended. Stir in the butter and almonds. Cover the bowl and let the batter rest for several hours or overnight in the refrigerator to let the flour absorb moisture.
Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven (or one rack in the center if you are baking only one sheet at a time) and preheat the oven to 325°F.
Stir the batter. Drop level teaspoons 2 inches apart on the lined baking sheets. Use the back of the spoon to smear the batter into 2½-inch rounds—tuiles baked on greased foil will spread a little; those baked on silicone or nonstick foil will not. Bake, watching carefully, for 12 to 15 minutes, rotating the sheets from front to back and top to bottom about halfway through the baking time, until the tuiles are mostly deep golden brown. If the cookies are not baked enough, they will not be completely crisp when cool, nor will they come off the foil easily.
Slide the foil sheets onto racks and let the cookies cool completely before removing them. Or, if using silicone mats, transfer the hot cookies to a rack to cool.
To retain crispness, put the cookies in an airtight container as soon as they are cool. They may be stored airtight for at least 1 month.
Note: Tuile batter baked on greased foil spreads in the oven, making slightly irregular-shaped cookies with thin, delicate edges. The batter will not spread on nonstick foil or silicone mats, so you must spread it to the diameter that you want before the sheets go into the oven. The edges of the tuiles will not be as delicate as those baked on foil, but they will hold their shapes.
To make traditional curved tuiles, you must shape the cookies while they are still hot, so you might want to bake only one sheet at a time until you get the hang of it. For silicone mats: Slide a small metal spatula under each cookie immediately, or as soon as you can do so without deforming them. Drape cookies over a rolling pin (anchored so it will not roll) or into custard cups or any small container that will give them an interesting shape. Move the cookies to a cooling rack when they are cool enough to keep their shape. Repeat until all of the tuiles are shaped. (If the cookies become too brittle, return them to the oven for a couple of minutes until they are hot and flexible again.)
Tuiles baked on regular foil tend to stick until they are completely cool, so use this trick for shaping a whole sheet at a time: Grasp the edges of the foil as soon as the sheet comes from the oven (without touching the hot pan or the cookies) and roll the foil into a fat cylinder, gently curving the attached cookies like potato chips. Crimp or secure the foil with a paper clip. When cool, unroll the foil carefully and remove the tuiles.
My own “notes to self” declared these decadent bars “spectacular while still warm” and “superb,” with “crunchy crust at the edges and a little crunchy/chewy on top but creamy and gooey inside.” Can it get any better than that? It must be emphasized nonetheless that these are intensely chocolate brownies and not necessarily for kids (see the next recipe for a kid-friendly brownie). I cut them into twenty-five pieces instead of sixteen. You will need to use a mixer—the handheld type is perfect here—to be sure that the ultrarich batter comes together smoothly. Makes 25 small brownies
1 pound 55% to 60% chocolate (see Note for other chocolate choices), coarsely chopped
8 tablespoons (1 stick/115 grams) unsalted butter, cut into chunks
1 cup (200 grams) sugar
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
Scant ½ teaspoon salt
3 large eggs, cold
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (70 grams) brown rice flour
Handheld mixer
8-inch square baking pan, lined on the bottom and all four sides with foil
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.
Place the chocolate and butter in a medium stainless steel bowl set directly in a wide skillet of barely simmering water. Stir frequently until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth and hot to the touch. Remove the bowl from the skillet and stir in the sugar, vanilla, and salt. Let the mixture cool to lukewarm. Add the eggs one at a time, beating with the handheld mixer after each addition until incorporated. Add the flour and beat on medium speed until the batter is smooth (it should not look curdled or separated), slightly lightened in color, and beginning to come away from the sides of the bowl, 1 or 2 minutes or more.
Scrape the batter into the pan and spread it evenly but with lots of raised swirls and ridges—these look great and get slightly crusty in the oven. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until the surface looks glossy but dry, with a few hairline cracks, and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with a few gooey crumbs on it.
Cool in the pan on a rack. Lift the foil edges to transfer the brownies to a cutting board. Cut into 25 squares. They’ll keep in an airtight container for 2 to 3 days.
Note: You can use 13 ounces of 62% to 64% chocolate instead.
Much more kid friendly than Ultra-Bittersweet Brownies (see recipe), these brownies made with a combination of brown rice flour and almond flour are quite a bit less intense, but still dark, gooey, and super chocolaty. Makes sixteen 2-inch brownies
½ cup (70 grams) whole almonds or ¾ cup (70 grams) almond flour/meal
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (50 grams) brown rice flour
6 ounces (170 grams) 60% to 62% chocolate, coarsely chopped
6 tablespoons (85 grams) unsalted butter, cut into chunks
½ teaspoon salt
⅔ cup (130 grams) sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs, cold
1 cup (100 grams) walnut or pecan pieces (optional)
Food processor fitted with the steel blade (optional)
8-inch square metal baking pan, lined on the bottom and all four sides with foil
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F.
If using whole almonds, put them in the food processor with the rice flour and pulse until the nuts are finely ground. If using almond flour, simply mix it in a bowl with the rice flour. Set aside.
Melt the chocolate with the butter in a medium stainless steel bowl set directly in a wide skillet of barely simmering water. Stir frequently until the mixture is melted and hot to the touch.
Remove the bowl and stir in the salt, sugar, and vanilla. Let cool until the mixture is lukewarm. Stir in the eggs one at a time. Add the almond-flour mixture and stir until moistened, then mix briskly for about 40 strokes. Stir in the walnuts or pecans, if using.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and spread it evenly. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the brownies are slightly puffed all over and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out moist but clean.
Cool in the pan on a rack. Lift the foil edges to transfer the brownies to a cutting board.
Cut into 16 squares. Brownies keep in an airtight container at room temperature for 2 or 3 days.
Clafoutis always seemed like bland custard slightly curdled by watery fruit, or soggy cake with equally soggy cherries. But Maya Klein’s version is a game changer: a silken filling laced with intensely flavorful fruit and just a bit of toothsome crustiness at the edge. Serves 6 to 8
¼ cup brandy or 1 tablespoon lemon juice
¼ cup water
¾ cup (150 grams) sugar
1⅓ cups (225 grams/8 ounces) dried cherries (sour or Bing)
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon (60 grams) white rice flour or ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon (60 grams) Thai white rice flour
Pinch of salt
2 large egg yolks
1 large egg
1 cup milk
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3 tablespoons (45 grams) unsalted butter
9-inch glass or ceramic pie dish or other 1-quart baking dish
In a small saucepan, combine the brandy, water, and ¼ cup of the sugar. Warm over medium heat. After 1 or 2 minutes, ignite the alcohol: On a gas range, stand back, turn the heat to high, and bring the edge of the pan near the flame. On an electric range, use a long match. Allow the flames to burn down and add the cherries. (If using lemon juice, warm to a simmer but do not ignite.) Tumble the cherries in the liquid, cover, and remove from the heat.
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven. Set a 9-inch glass pie dish on the rack and preheat the oven to 350°F.
Meanwhile, whisk the flour, remaining ½ cup sugar, salt, egg yolks, and whole egg in a medium mixing bowl until smooth. Add the milk and vanilla and whisk until well blended. Drain the cherries and discard the liquid. When the oven is preheated, put the butter in the pie dish and swirl to coat the bottom. Scatter the cherries in the dish and return it to the oven for 2 minutes. Whisk the batter, remove the dish from the oven, and pour the batter into it in a spiral from the outside edge to the center. Bake for 23 to 25 minutes, until lightly browned at the edges and a little bubbly at the center. Remove from the oven and let cool for at least 20 minutes or up to 2 hours before serving. Leftovers can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days; warm in the microwave before serving.
Note: Letting the fruit linger briefly in the hot pan without batter concentrates flavor and eliminates excess moisture. Served warm, the clafoutis retains a bit of puff from baking, but chilling it for a day or so accentuates the buttery quality of the custard
Fresh Cherry or Pear Clafoutis
Cherries are classic, but pears have a lovely light, almost floral flavor. Use the lemon juice instead of brandy and omit the water. Do not heat or try to flambé the lemon juice—just toss it with the fruit and the ¼ cup sugar. Substitute 1½ cups (225 grams/8 ounces) fresh pitted cherries or cored, cubed ripe pears for the dried cherries.
It can’t be said too many times: soufflés are easier to make than anyone thinks, and you can prepare them in advance—except for the baking—and simply pop them into a hot oven a few minutes before you are ready to serve. Always call guests to the table early enough to wait for the soufflés to arrive directly from the oven. Guests—unlike soufflés—can wait without deflating!
Rice flour makes the base for a superior chocolate soufflé. The delicate rice flavor allows all of the flavors of the chocolate to come through bright and clear; wheat flour is more traditional but it works less well because it blocks and mutes other flavors. For years I’ve made my chocolate soufflés without any flour at all, compromising texture slightly in pursuit of more and better chocolate flavor. Rice flour offers the best of both worlds: it gives the creamy, luxurious texture that comes from using a little flour in the soufflé base, but it doesn’t compete with the flavor of an excellent chocolate. Serves 7 or 8
Unsalted butter, softened, to butter the soufflé cups
Granulated sugar, to coat the soufflé cups
1 tablespoon (15 grams) unsalted butter
½ cup plus 1 tablespoon milk
1 tablespoon (10 grams) white rice flour
⅛ teaspoon salt
8 ounces (225 grams) 60% to 62% chocolate, chopped medium fine
3 large egg yolks, at room temperature
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
4 large egg whites, at room temperature
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
⅓ cup (65 grams) granulated sugar
2 to 3 tablespoons powdered sugar for dusting (optional)
Lightly sweetened whipped cream (see recipe)
Seven or eight 5- to 6-ounce soufflé cups
Stand mixer with whisk attachment, or handheld mixer
Rimmed baking sheet
Butter the bottom, sides, and rim of the soufflé cups lightly but thoroughly. To coat with sugar, fill one of them with the sugar. Tilt the cup and rotate it over a second cup until the bottom, sides, and rim of both are completely coated with sugar. Pour excess sugar into the third cup and repeat until all cups are coated. Discard any excess sugar (or use it in your coffee or cereal), but don’t use it in the egg whites.
In a small saucepan, melt the 1 tablespoon butter and add the ½ cup milk, rice flour, and salt. Whisking constantly, bring the mixture to a simmer and simmer gently for about 1½ minutes to cook the flour. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate. Stir until the chocolate is completely melted and the mixture is smooth. Scrape the mixture into a large bowl and whisk in the egg yolks, vanilla, and remaining 1 tablespoon milk. Set aside.
Combine the egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of the stand mixer (or in another large bowl if using a handheld mixer). Beat with the whisk attachment on medium speed (or on high speed with the handheld mixer) until soft peaks form when the beaters are lifted. Gradually sprinkle in the ⅓ cup sugar and continue to beat on high speed until the egg whites are stiff but not dry. Fold one-quarter of the egg whites into the chocolate mixture to lighten it, then fold in the remaining egg whites. Divide the mixture evenly among the sugared cups, filling them at least three-quarters full. The soufflés may be prepared to this point, covered, and refrigerated for up to 3 days before serving.
Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Set the cups on the baking sheet and bake the soufflés for 15 to 17 minutes, until a wooden skewer plunged into the center tests moist but not completely gooey or runny. Soufflés will rise and may crack on top before they are done.
Remove the soufflés from the oven and lightly sift powdered sugar over them, if desired. Serve immediately with the whipped cream.
This old-time classic dessert is especially yummy made with rice flour instead of the traditional cornstarch (see box). The scotch is a great flavor addition too, but you can omit it if you like. Use superfine or Thai rice flour here or the pudding will not be silky smooth. If you can wait, the pudding is even more delicious and silky on the second day. Serves 8
1⅓ cups (270 grams) packed brown sugar
¼ cup scotch or bourbon whiskey or 3 tablespoons of water
¼ cup (40 grams) superfine white rice flour or ⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon (40 grams) Thai rice flour
¼ teaspoon salt
4 cups half-and-half (or 3½ cups whole milk and ½ cup heavy cream)
Eight 6-ounce custard cups or ramekins
Combine the brown sugar and Scotch (or water) in a medium saucepan. Cook over medium heat until the mixture bubbles all over and the sugar is dissolved. Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool for 20 minutes. Add the rice flour, salt, and about ¼ cup of the half-and-half. Whisk until there are no lumps of rice flour and then whisk in the remaining half-and-half. Using a silicone spatula or a wooden spoon, stir the mixture constantly over medium heat, scraping the bottom, sides, and corners of the pan until the pudding thickens and begins to bubble. It may look curdled at this point; that is okay. Adjust the heat as necessary to maintain a gentle boil. Continue cooking and stirring for 4 more minutes to fully cook the rice flour.
Take the pan off the heat and immediately pour the pudding into the cups. Let the pudding cool at room temperature for 1 hour, undisturbed (without mixing, jiggling, or spooning out a taste). Cover and refrigerate for at least several hours or (better yet) for 24 hours before serving.
Cornstarch is the common thickener for puddings. But in the case of Silky Butterscotch Pudding, Silky Saffron Rice Pudding (see recipe), Silky Chocolate Pudding (see recipe), Silky Vanilla Pudding (see recipe), Sicilian Chocolate Gelato (see recipe), and The New Vanilla Pastry Cream (see recipe), we use rice flour to do the same job. Extra-fine rice flour requires a little more simmering time to get rid of its raw starch flavor than does cornstarch, but it gives us a brighter cleaner flavor of butterscotch—or chocolate, saffron, or vanilla!
Saffron makes an otherwise cozy pudding exotic and beautiful to look at, especially when garnished with Cardamom Brittle (see recipe) or with chopped pistachios and a little grated cinnamon stick. Vanilla works for everyone: serve it to the family with a favorite peanut butter or chocolate cookie or just top it with a spoonful of fruit preserves; dress it up for company with Oat and Almond Tuiles (see recipe), Almond Tuiles (see recipe), or Crispy Coconut Wafers (see recipe). For the most luxurious texture, make these puddings a day ahead. This is one of the few recipes that requires superfine or Thai rice flour; get it from either an Asian grocery store or Authentic Foods (see Resources). Serves 8
30 saffron threads or 1∕16 teaspoon finely chopped or crushed saffron
⅔ cup (130 grams) sugar
¼ cup (40 grams) superfine white rice flour or ⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon (40 grams) Thai white rice flour
Scant ¼ teaspoon salt
4 cups half-and-half (or 3½ cups whole milk and ½ cup heavy cream)
Eight 6-ounce custard cups or ramekins
Use your fingers to pinch the saffron with some of the sugar to make the particles smaller, or use a mortar and pestle. Whisk the sugar, saffron, rice flour, and salt in a heavy medium saucepan. Add about ¼ cup of the half-and-half and whisk to form a smooth paste. Whisk in the remaining half-and-half. Using a silicone spatula or a wooden spoon, stir the mixture constantly over medium heat until it is very hot to the touch. Remove from the heat, cover, and let steep for 20 minutes. Reheat the mixture, scraping the bottom, sides, and corners of the pan, until the pudding thickens and begins to bubble. Adjust the heat as necessary to maintain a gentle boil. Continue cooking and stirring for 4 more minutes to fully cook the rice flour.
Take the pan off the heat and immediately pour the pudding into the cups. Let the pudding cool at room temperature for 1 hour, undisturbed (without mixing, jiggling, or spooning out a taste). Cover and refrigerate for at least several hours or (better yet) for 24 hours before serving.
Omit the saffron and the steeping step. Stir 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract into the pudding as soon as it’s cooked. Or use a vanilla bean: Omit the saffron. Add the seeds scraped from 1 split vanilla bean, and the bean, to the pot with the cream. Heat and steep as directed. Remove the pod (rinse and save for another use or discard) and proceed as directed.
Rice flour, instead of cornstarch, lets the flavors of chocolate and cocoa really sing in this simple but stunning chocolate pudding (see box). For best flavor, the cocoa and chocolate are added to the pudding only in the last minute or so of cooking. This is one of the few recipes that requires superfine or Thai rice flour, either from an Asian grocery store or from Authentic Foods (see Resources). Serves 8
½ cup less 1 tablespoon (40 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder
4 cups whole milk
6 ounces 55% to 64% dark chocolate, finely chopped
⅔ cup (130 grams) sugar
2 tablespoons (20 grams) superfine white rice flour or 3 tablespoons (20 grams) Thai white rice flour
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup heavy cream
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1 cup heavy cream, for pouring, or lightly sweetened whipped cream (see recipe; optional)
Eight 4-ounce custard cups or ramekins
In a small bowl, whisk the cocoa and about ¼ cup of the milk to form a smooth, loose paste. Dump the chopped chocolate on top and set aside near the stove.
Whisk the sugar, rice flour, and salt in a heavy medium saucepan. Whisk in a few tablespoons of the remaining milk to form a smooth paste. Whisk in the remaining milk and the ½ cup cream. Using a silicone spatula or a wooden spoon, stir the mixture constantly over medium heat, scraping the bottom, sides, and corners of the pan, until the mixture thickens and begins to bubble at the edges. Set a timer for 2 minutes and continue to cook and stir, adjusting the heat so that the mixture bubbles readily but not furiously.
Scrape about one third of the mixture over the cocoa and chocolate and whisk until the chocolate is melted. Stir everything back into the saucepan and return it to the heat, whisking constantly. When the pudding starts to bubble at the edges, continue to cook and stir for 1 minute longer. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla. Divide the pudding among the cups or ramekins. Serve warm or at room temperature or chilled, with poured cream or whipped cream, if desired. The pudding can be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.
Reduce the amount of cocoa powder to 2 tablespoons (12 grams) and substitute 7 ounces (200 grams) finely chopped milk chocolate for the dark chocolate. Proceed as directed but scrape about half rather than a third of the hot pudding mixture over the chopped chocolate.
Sicilian gelato is perfect for sultry weather when you crave ice cream but really don’t want the fat or calories that go along with it. With no eggs or cream, Sicilian gelato is essentially churned frozen pudding—made with milk and usually thickened with cornstarch. Since rice flour works so well in Silky Chocolate Pudding (see recipe)—and all of the other puddings in this chapter—I knew the same substitution would work fabulously for gelato. This recipe has a two-for-one bonus: you can freeze and serve the gelato base without putting it in the ice cream machine for a superrich dark smooth gelato, or you can chill the base as usual and freeze it in your ice cream machine for a lighter texture and flavor. Either way, this is one of the few recipes that requires superfine or Thai rice flour, from either an Asian grocery store or Authentic Foods (see Resources). Makes about 1 quart/serves 6 to 8
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (60 grams) unsweetened natural or Dutch-process cocoa powder
3 cups whole milk
1 cup (200 grams) sugar
1½ tablespoons (15 grams) superfine white rice flour or 2½ tablespoons (15 grams) Thai white rice flour
⅛ teaspoon salt
3½ ounces (100 grams) 66% to 72% dark chocolate, finely chopped
Ice cream maker
In a medium bowl, whisk the cocoa with about ⅓ cup of the milk to form a smooth, loose paste. Set aside near the stove.
In a medium saucepan, mix the sugar with the rice flour and salt. Whisk in a few tablespoons of the remaining milk to form a smooth paste. Whisk in the rest of the milk. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a silicone spatula or a wooden spoon, scraping the bottom, sides, and corners of the pan to avoid scorching, until the mixture thickens and bubbles a little at the edges. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes longer. Scrape the cocoa paste into the pot and whisk to blend. Continue to stir just until a few bubbles appear around the edge of the pot, another minute or so. Add the chocolate and stir until smooth. Let cool.
Cover the surface of the mixture with plastic wrap and chill for several hours or overnight. Freeze without churning for a rich, dense gelato, or freeze with your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.