CHAPTER FIVE
Desserts
Traditionally Romanians don’t eat dessert every day, but we do love to bake, and layered cakes are the pride and glory of any household. In the countryside, we love a good plăcintă – stuffed layered breads with a sweet filling of stewed fruits or curd cheese with sultanas. The cities have prăjitură and tort, which can be anything from a clafoutis-style dessert to a luscious, chocolate layered cake.
We bake for special occasions and religious celebrations and to mark moments of happiness, togetherness, merry-making and fun. When eating out, choosing something from the dessert menu is a must, even if we only order crêpes with cherry confiture. Patisserie shops, cofetării, are dotted around cities and towns, displaying anything from baklavas and cataifs to Savarin cakes, choux-à-la-crème cream puffs and chocolate mousses. It is a seductive, fairytale world of the old Byzantium meeting the western sweet cuisines of Austria and France.
Our love affair with layered cakes, coffee houses, cafenele and patisserie shops started during the Austrian Empire and Habsburg rule, when the empire itself was enjoying a period of culinary sophistication. This is probably the sweetest thing that happened to us under the circumstances.
◁ Cozonac
Walnut and rum celebration bread
This is the traditional Romanian celebration bread for Easter and Christmas – richer than a brioche and loaded with a rum-spiked walnut filling. My contribution as kitchen helper was to hold down the kneading bowl while my mum lifted the dough in the air and slapped it right back down in the middle. This was her technique for incorporating the butter. In spring cozonac is baked on the last Thursday before Easter Sunday, creating wonderful aromas in every house and bakery, making your day feel glorious as you stroll through the alleys.
Makes 2 loaves
For the maia (starter):
25g (1oz) plain flour
50ml (2fl oz) milk
1 tsp caster sugar
7g (1/4oz) fast-action dried yeast
For the dough:
12g (1/4oz) fast-action dried yeast
120ml (4fl oz) milk, tepid
6 egg yolks
1/2 tsp salt
100g (31/2oz) caster sugar
25ml (1fl oz) rum
475g (1lb 1oz) plain flour
Zest of 1 orange
Zest of 1 lemon
1 tbsp vanilla extract
100g (31/2oz) butter, melted
10ml (1/2fl oz) vegetable or sunflower oil
For the filling:
2 egg whites, whisked to very soft peaks
200g (7oz) walnuts, blitzed
2 tsp powdered instant coffee
20g (3/4oz) cocoa
30ml (1fl oz) rum
150g (5oz) caster sugar
For the glaze:
1 egg yolk, mixed with 1 tbsp milk
To make the maia, combine all of the ingredients in a bowl, cover and set aside in a warm place for 25 minutes or until doubled in size.
To make the dough, dissolve the yeast in the milk. In a separate bowl, combine the egg yolks with the salt, then add the sugar and rum. Pour the egg mixture over the maia and add the milk and yeast, then gradually add the flour, citrus zest and vanilla. Transfer to the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook. Knead for about 10 minutes or until the dough is soft and comes away from the sides of the bowl. Add the butter, a little at a time, kneading after each addition until well incorporated. (I prefer to do this by hand as it is more gentle on the dough and you can feel the mixture becoming silky and elastic – an indication that the butter has been well incorporated.) Leave in a warm place (over 21°C/69.8°F) to rise for 11/2–2 hours.
To make the filling, fold all of the remaining ingredients into the whisked egg whites and set aside.
If the dough is too soft to handle after rising, knock the air out of it and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Use the oil to grease the worktop, turn out the dough and divide into four. Using your finger tips, stretch one of the pieces of dough into a rectangle about 30 × 40cm (12 × 153/4in), with the long side parallel to you. Spread a quarter of the filling evenly onto the dough and roll it into a log. Repeat the process with a second portion of dough.
Grease and flour two 12 × 26cm (43/4 × 101/4in) loaf tins. Place one log over the other to form an ‘X’ shape. Twist the two logs of dough, starting with one side of the ‘X’, then repeat with the other side. Lift the twisted bread and place into the tin. Repeat the process with the remaining two pieces of dough, then cover with a damp tea towel. Leave to prove in a warm place for at least 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/gas mark 5. Glaze the bread very gently with the egg wash and bake for 25 minutes. Lower the heat to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4 and bake for a further 20 minutes, covering with foil if the top browns too quickly.
Cool the cozonac upside-down on a wire rack, so the top doesn’t press on the rest of the bread and make it stodgy. Cover with a kitchen towel until completely cold. Slice and serve with a glass of hot milk.
◁ Papanaşi
Ricotta doughnuts served with sour cherry jam and crème fraîche
The ultimate comfort dessert – exuberant and rustic, papanaşi are the great big ending to any Romanian meal. We say that they are a bit like life: sweet, sour, round and imperfect. The doughnuts must be light and not too sweet, since most of the sweetness comes from the jam. Be generous with the jam and crème fraîche. It’s all a balancing act but in the end you add as much of each topping as you wish. I love the sour cherry jam, so I’m biased. In the summer, I replace the crème fraîche with a dollop of ice-cream.
Makes 10–12
For the doughnuts:
300g (11oz) fresh ricotta (see here)
100g (31/2oz) natural yoghurt
1 egg
20g (3/4oz) sugar
2 tsp vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
250g (9oz) plain flour, plus extra for flouring
1 tsp baking powder
Zest of 1 orange
For frying:
100ml (31/2fl oz) vegetable or sunflower oil
To serve:
75g (3oz) crème fraîche
75g (3oz) sour cherry jam
Icing sugar, for dusting
To make the doughnuts, mix together the ricotta, yoghurt, egg, sugar, vanilla and a pinch of salt. Add the flour, baking powder and orange zest, mixing until you see the dough coming together and away from the sides of the bowl. It will be a bit sticky, but refrigerate for 30 minutes and it will be easier to work with. The dough will remain sticky throughout the whole process, which gives the doughnuts their fluffiness and lightness, so don’t panic – just carry on.
Flour your hands and roll the dough into 10–12 pairs of 50g (2oz) and 15g (1/2oz) balls. These will be your papanaşi pairs. Take one 50g (2oz) ball and use the handle of a wooden spoon to make a hole in the centre, then rotate the spoon with a stirring action to create a doughnut ring. Repeat will the remaining 50g (2oz) balls. Leave the 15g (1/2oz) balls as they are – they will go on top of the larger ones.
Heat the oil in a deep pan (or a fryer) until piping hot, then reduce the heat to medium. If you have a thermometer, the temperature should be 180°C (350°F). Working quickly, fry both the rings and doughnut balls for 2–3 minutes. They will get quite dark, but this is what you are looking for. Set aside on kitchen towel.
To serve, place the doughnut rings on a plate and cover each with a generous dollop of crème fraîche, then top with a spoonful of jam. Add a small doughnut ball on top of each ring and dust with icing sugar. Serve warm and enjoy whole-heartedly!
◁ Doboş Tort
Seven layer Hungarian cake
This is an extravagant cake of rich chocolate buttercream studded with roasted walnuts and finished with a bitter-sweet caramel topping. We owe its popularity to the Austro-Hungarian empire, so much so that its name even made it into the communist cookery books, where dishes that sounded foreign were usually renamed. For years I had a simplified version of it for my birthday, but here I want to make it in all its glory
Serves 8
7 × 18cm (7in) cake tins
For the sponge:
7 eggs
150g (5oz) caster sugar
80g (3oz) butter, melted and cooled
150g (5oz) plain flour
For the buttercream:
350g (12oz) butter, softened
225g (8oz) icing sugar
2 eggs, at room temperature
2 tbsp powdered instant coffee
225g (8oz) dark chocolate, melted
For the caramel:
100g (31/2oz) caster sugar
1 tbsp water
To assemble:
100g (31/2oz) walnuts, chopped
To make the sponge, preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6. Grease and line the cake tins – if you don’t have seven, bake the mixture in batches. Whisk the eggs and sugar together until pale and fluffy. Fold in the butter and sieve in the flour, combining well. Spoon 100g (31/2oz) of the mixture into each tin and bake for 10–12 minutes, or until golden. Remove from the tins and carefully peel away the baking paper while the cakes are still warm. Stack all seven one on top of the other, cover with a clean tea towel so they retain as much moisture as possible and set aside.
To make the buttercream, beat the butter with the sugar until creamy, then add the eggs one by one, (if the mixture splits, don’t panic – it will come back together once the melted chocolate is added), followed by the instant coffee and dark chocolate. Stir to combine and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
For the top layer, place one of the 7 sponge layers on a cooling rack with a plate underneath, ready to pour the caramel over. Pass the blade of a long carving knife through butter and set aside.
The make the caramel, heat the sugar with the water in a small pan over a medium heat until the sugar darkens and caramelises. This is a very quick process, so don’t take your eyes off the pan! Pour the caramel over the prepared sponge layer and down the sides as evenly as possible. It will solidify very quickly, so work fast. Take the knife and quickly cut the caramel-covered sponge layer into 8 triangles. You might need to pass the knife edge through butter a few times.
To assemble, spread 100g (31/2oz) of the buttercream over each of the remaining six sponge layers, then use the remaining buttercream to cover the sides and top – you will only need a thin layer. Now press the chopped walnuts around the sides, leaving the top free. Arrange the 8 caramel triangles on the top and refrigerate overnight.
◁ Învârtită
Apple and blueberry swirl pie
How wonderful to name a cake after a traditional Romanian dance, învârtită. Couples put their arms on each others shoulders and spin around elegantly, women swirling their beautiful pleated skirts and marking the pace with a quick stomp. It is part of village life at celebrations or on Sundays after church, when people love to play music, dance and eat good food. This pie can be made with a savoury or sweet filling, but I am biased towards the fruity sort – juicy and just a bit indulgent.
Serves 6
For the dough:
250g (9oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting
10ml (1/2fl oz) vegetable or sunflower oil
1 egg
100ml (31/2fl oz) milk
For the filling:
200g (7oz) apple, peeled and diced
2 tbsp caster sugar
Splash of lemon juice
1 tsp cinnamon
To assemble:
60g (21/2oz) butter, melted
75g (3oz) ground almonds
100g (31/2oz) blueberries
For the syrup:
50g (2oz) caster sugar
50ml (2fl oz) water
To make the dough, mix the ingredients together and knead for about 10 minutes. The whole process of making this pie is quite tactile, so I like to knead the dough by hand and feel its texture turning smooth and springy. Refrigerate the dough while you make the filling.
To make the filling, put the apple, sugar and lemon juice into a pan over a low heat and cook gently until the apple is soft but not mashed. Add the cinnamon and set aside to cool.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6. Grease and line a 23cm (9in) cake tin, springform tin or non-stick baking tray.
Place a clean linen tea towel measuring about 65 × 50cm (251/2 × 20in) on the kitchen table, with one of the long edges closest to you. Dust the tea towel generously with flour and place the dough in the centre. Using a floured rolling pin roll the dough until it is very thin, perhaps 2–3mm (1/8in), and covering the tea towel (you may need to use your fingers to stretch it to the edges).
Brush the dough with 30g (11/4oz) of the melted butter, then sprinkle over the ground almonds evenly. Spread the apple filling onto the dough, then dot with the blueberries. Grab the edge of the tea towel and use it to roll the pastry gently away from you and over itself to form a tight coil. Brush lightly with the remaining melted butter. Place in the prepared tin and bake for 30 minutes.
To make the syrup, place the sugar and water in a pan over a medium heat and bring to the boil, then leave to simmer for 5 minutes.
Remove the pie from the oven, brush all over with the syrup, then bake for a further 5 minutes.
Leave to cool slightly, but serve it warm.
◁ Pască
Brioche baked cheesecake
This cheesecake is our equivalent of the Easter chocolate eggs and it’s baked only for this occasion. Baskets of food, with Cozonac, painted eggs and pască are lined-up at church on the eve of Easter Sunday for the priest’s blessing during the sunrise service. They are then taken home and shared with loved ones in a delicious feast, ending the fasting period. For me, breathing in the scent of this cake is a moment of happiness. Buttery and sweet, it is a powerful reminder of the meaning of Easter, when we rejoice and indulge in celebrations.
Serves 6
For the brioche:
300g (11oz) strong white bread flour
30ml (1fl oz) milk, at room temperature
7g (1/4oz) fast-action dried yeast
1 tbsp caster sugar
3 eggs
150g (5oz) butter, diced and softened
For the filling:
200g (7oz) fresh ricotta (see here) or 100g (31/2oz) shop-bought ricotta mixed with 100g (31/2oz) crème fraîche
3 egg yolks
3 tbsp sugar
100g (31/2oz) sultanas
15ml (1/2fl oz) orange liqueur or rum (optional)
1 tsp vanilla
For baking:
1 egg yolk mixed with 1 tsp milk
Zest of 1 orange
10g (1/4oz) diced butter
To make the brioche dough, put the flour, milk, yeast and sugar into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook. Mix on a medium speed until combined, then add the eggs one by one and mix again. When the dough starts to come away from the sides of the bowl, start adding the butter, dice by dice, ensuring that each addition is well incorporated. Cover and leave to rise for 11/2–2 hours in a warm place, at around 21–22°C (70–72°F). Refrigerate for 2–3 hours or overnight and it will be ready to roll.
To make the filling, thoroughly combine all the ingredients together to form a smooth mixture.
Divide the dough into 2 pieces. Grease a 25cm (10in) pastry ring or springform tin with the base removed. Roll one half of the dough to a circle slightly larger than the ring or tin, and place it onto a non-stick baking tray. Place the ring or tin on top of the pastry (you will trim the edges later).
Divide the remaining half of the dough into 2 pieces. Roll into two long ropes, measuring 85–90cm (331/2–351/2in). Loosely twist the dough ropes together, leaving room for the dough to expand. Place inside the ring or tin, creating a beautiful border around the sides.
Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/gas mark 5. Brush the border with the egg wash, then pour in the filling. Scatter the orange zest on top and dot with the diced butter.
Bake for 25–30 minutes until the filling is soft and wobbly in the middle. If the dough becomes too dark, cover with foil. Cool on a wire rack trim around the pastry ring and then carefully remove it. Serve for dessert or as a treat for a breakfast. Scatter any leftover sultanas on top.
◁ Tort de mere
Caramelised apple cake
This is a cake for the beginning of autumn, when chilly nights make us crave comforting baked apples with caramel sauce. It is traditionally served with whipped cream, to which I like to add a little brandy, but you may wish to try it with Cider Ice-Cream for its refreshing acidity and perfume. However, the cake is perfect on its own and although it’s best the following day, it won’t last that long.
Serves 6
For the apples:
5–8 small apples, depending on size
150g (5oz) jam (your favourite one)
For the caramel sauce:
125g (4oz) caster sugar
40g (11/2oz) butter
For the batter:
4 eggs
140g (41/2oz) superfine sugar
120g (4oz) butter, melted and cooled to lukewarm
150g (5oz) ground almonds
Pinch of salt
Zest 1 lemon
1 tbsp vanilla extract
1 tsp baking powder
To serve:
To prepare the apples, cut away the tops and scoop out the core, then cut the bottoms to create a flat base. Add a teaspoon of jam into each apple. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6.
To make the caramel sauce, melt the sugar and butter together in a 23cm (9in) diameter, 8cm (3in) deep ovenproof pan over a medium heat. Cook until the sugar is dark brown in colour, stiring continuously. Add the apples, jam-side up, transfer to the oven and bake for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the batter: whisk the eggs with the sugar until pale, then pour in the butter and add the ground almonds. Mix well, then add the remaining ingredients and whisk to combine.
Remove the pan from the oven and pour the batter around the apples. Return the pan to the oven and bake for 10 minutes at 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6, then reduce the heat to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4 and bake for a further 20 minutes.
Remove from the oven and very carefully run a buttered knife around the edges. Rest for 5 minutes, then put a plate on top of the pan and carefully, but quickly turn it upside-down to reveal the cake. Set aside to cool completely before serving with Cider Ice-Cream or Brandy Chantilly Cream.
Salam de biscuiţi
Auntie Geta’s chocolate ‘salami’
A chocolate salami is one of the easiest no-bake treats to make, and despite the name, doesn’t require any chocolate. In communist times, chocolate was a rarity – we probably only had it once a year, and it was imported from China. So to have this finger-licking chocolate flavoured treat was a joyous occasion, and I owe this recipe to my auntie Geta. She makes the best salami ever (also a toffee vodka to blow your socks off!), and her trick for the salami is to use halva, which in Romania is made from sunflower seeds.
Serves 10–12
30g (11/4oz) sultanas
40ml (11/2fl oz) rum
200g (7oz) digestive biscuits, crushed by hand or in a food processor
100g (31/2oz) walnuts, roasted and chopped
90ml (31/4fl oz) water
50g (2oz) caster sugar
30g (11/4oz) cocoa powder
1 tbsp orange marmalade
1 tbsp vanilla extract
Zest of 1 orange
100g (31/2oz) vanilla halva, roughly chopped
Icing sugar or desiccated coconut, to serve
Soak the sultanas in the rum for 15–20 minutes while you crush the biscuits and roast and chop the walnuts.
Gently bring the water to the boil in a pan over a low heat, pour in the sugar and stir to dissolve. Remove from the heat and add the cocoa, combining well.
In a separate bowl, mix the rum-soaked sultanas, discarding the soaking liquid, with the biscuits, walnuts, marmalade, vanilla extract and orange zest, combining well. Add the halva at the last minute. Transfer the mixture onto a layer of cling film and shape it into a log. Refrigerate overnight, then when you are ready to serve, remove the salami from the cling film and roll it in icing sugar or desiccated coconut before cutting into slices to serve.
Chisăliţă de prune cu mămăligă
Stewed plums with honey polenta ‘porridge’
This dish is usually served poured over a piece of bread or polenta. It is somewhere between a stew and a soup, and the exact consistency depends on regional interpretations. In some parts of the country the stewed plums are sieved, then the juice is thickened with polenta. My Transylvanian grandmother used to serve this as a lunch and dessert in one.
Serves 2
400g (14oz) plums, stoned and sliced
1l (13/4 pints) water
200ml (7fl oz) milk
2 tbsp runny honey, plus extra to serve
50g (2oz) polenta
Pinch of cinnamon, to serve (optional)
Bring the plums and water to the boil over a medium heat, then simmer until the fruit is soft and pulpy, stirring occasionally. Set aside to cool slightly. The mixture should be the consistency of a thin compote.
Bring the milk and honey to the boil in a separate pan over a medium heat, then turn the heat down to low. Add the polenta and whisk thoroughly until the polenta absorbs the liquid and becomes soft and creamy.
Divide the polenta into two bowls and pour over a little of the plum mixture. Drizzle with honey and sprinkle over a little cinnamon, if liked.
◁ Chec
Summer fruit marble cake
The name actually comes from the English ‘cake’ and it is one of the most popular and versatile bakes in Romania. When it comes to flavours, there are no rules – you can use any of your favourite ones, then serve it glazed, topped with fresh fruit, whipped cream or just plain. It is so popular that you can even find savoury versions! It is an incredibly light cake, and very refreshing with its bounty of summer fruits.
Serves 8–10
For the syrup:
200g (7oz) summer fruits (fresh or frozen)
3 tbsp sugar
For the cake:
4 eggs, separated
150g (5oz) caster sugar
2 tbsp olive oil
150g (5oz) plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
1 tbsp vanilla extract
Icing sugar, for dusting
To make the syrup, in a deep pan, bring the fruits and sugar to the boil, then simmer on a medium heat for 10–12 minutes, or until soft and sticky. While still warm, pass through a sieve to squeeze out all of that wonderful juice – you should now have around 50ml (2fl oz) of dense, fruity syrup.
To make the cake, whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks, then add the sugar gradually and whisk to a stiff meringue-like consistency. Combine the egg yolks with the oil, then fold into the egg whites and sugar. Sieve in the flour with the baking powder, combining well. Divide the mixture into two separate bowls. Fold the vanilla into one bowl and the fruit syrup to the other. Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4.
Grease and line a 25 × 13.5 × 9cm (10 × 51/2 × 31/2in) loaf tin, then starting in the centre, drop in 2 tablespoons of the vanilla batter followed by 2 tablespoons of the fruit batter. Continue alternating with the remaining batter – it will soon spread to fill the tin by itself. The mixture should come two thirds up the sides of the tin.
Bake for 35–40 minutes or until a wooden skewer comes out clean. Leave to rest in the tin for 10 minutes, then turn out and leave to cool in a warm place. Dust with icing sugar then serve with fresh or poached fruits.
◁ Cremşnit
Vanilla custard slice
To me, this dessert has the resonance of the elegant world of our royal family. Queen Marie of Romania was the granddaughter of Queen Victoria and she was born in Kent, England. One of their family homes outside Bucharest was the marvellous Peleş Castle, built in a flamboyant Renaissance-revival style. I can imagine this decadent dessert being served there after a long dinner due to its light yet velvety texture, just enough to satisfy a sweet tooth.
Serves 8–10
For the pastry:
1 quantity of pastry dough (see here), or 2 × 320g (111/2oz) ready-rolled puff pastry sheets
For the vanilla cream:
6 egg yolks
120g caster sugar
30g (11/4oz) plain flour
30g (11/4oz) cornflour
500ml (171/2fl oz) milk
3 tsp vanilla extract
50g (2oz) unsalted butter, diced
For the whipped cream:
250g (9oz) double cream
15g (1/2oz) icing sugar, plus extra for dusting
1 tsp vanilla extract
50ml (2fl oz) orange liqueur (optional)
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6. If using homemade pastry, divide the dough in 2. Roll both halves to 30 × 35cm (12×14in) rectangles around 5mm (1/4in) thick and place on lined baking sheets. Bake for 20–25 minutes until golden and crisp. While still warm, trim one pastry rectangle to the size of the baking dish you will use to assemble the cake (mine was 23 × 28cm/9 × 11in). Reserve the trimmings for the topping.
To make the vanilla cream, mix the egg yolks with the sugar, then add the flour and cornflour. Heat the milk with the vanilla in a pan over a medium heat, then gradually add to the egg mixture, stirring continuously. Return the mixture to the pan, bring to a simmer and whisk until thickened. Remove from the heat and leave to cool for 15 minutes, then add the butter, combining well. Set aside to cool completely.
To make the whipped cream, whisk the double cream with the icing sugar until it forms soft peaks, then stir in the vanilla and orange liquor, if using. Set aside.
To assemble the cake, line the baking dish with cling film, allowing it to overhang on each side. Place the trimmed pastry layer into the dish, spread the vanilla cream on top, then add the whipped cream. Cover with the extra cling film and set in the fridge overnight. When you are ready to serve, crumble over the remaining pastry rectangle and leftover trimmings. Cut into rectangular slices and dust with icing sugar.
◁ Prăjitură cu ciocolată
Chocolate cream cakes
These may look complicated, but they are actually pretty straightforward to make. They were initially called Moors’ Heads or Indiene, the connection being an exotic juggling act which inspired a pastry chef and a Hungarian theatre director to use them as incentives for selling tickets. Today they are more commonly known as chocolate kisses, buns or cream cakes.
Makes 8
For the sponge discs:
3 eggs, separated
60g (21/2oz) caster sugar
1 tsp cream of tartar
Juice and zest of 1 lemon
75g (3oz) plain flour
For the filling:
150g (5oz) double cream, at room temperature
30g (11/4oz) icing sugar
125g (4oz) dark chocolate, melted
For the syrup:
100ml (31/2fl oz) water
100g (31/2oz) caster sugar
50ml (2fl oz) rum or brandy
For the chocolate glaze:
100g (31/2oz) milk chocolate, melted
To assemble:
200ml (7fl oz) double cream, whipped
Cocoa powder (optional)
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Line a baking tray with baking paper and use a pencil to draw sixteen 8cm- (3in-) diameter circles onto the paper.
To make the sponge discs, whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks, then add the sugar and cream of tartar, whisking to the consistency of stiff meringue. Add the egg yolks and lemon juice and zest, sift in the flour and fold gently until well incorporated. Pipe or spoon equal quantities of the mixture into each drawn circle, if possible forming a slight dome shape. Bake for 15 minutes, or until firm and golden in colour, and cool on a wire rack.
To make the filling, whisk the cream with the icing sugar until thick, then gently add the melted chocolate, combining well. Transfer to a piping bag and refrigerate to firm up.
To make the syrup, bring the water and sugar to the boil in a pan over a medium heat. Simmer for 8–10 minutes until slightly reduced. Remove from the heat and stir in the rum or brandy. Leave to cool.
To assemble, take half the sponge discs and dip the tops, one by one, into the chocolate glaze, then set aside – the chocolate doesn’t have to be even around the edges. Take the unglazed discs and brush them with a little of the rum syrup, then pipe the chocolate cream filling on top. Place the glazed discs on top of the filling, then spoon over or pipe a little of the whipped cream onto each one and dust with cocoa powder, if liked. Serve on the day of making.
◁ Cataif
Shredded filo nests with walnuts and whipped cream
Entering a cofetărie pastry shop in Bucharest is really a historical trip through baking and cakes. In the window you will see Greek and Turkish baklavas, cataifs, filo pies and sherbets, alongside French-influenced buttercream layer cakes, chocolate mousses and fruit tarts. In the late 19th century Romania swapped its caftans for the crinolines, and began its own journey in cake-making and patisserie. This cataif is the ultimate nutty extravagance, where sticky walnuts are paired with thin, crunchy shreds of kataifi pastry, which can be found in Turkish delis or bought online, and served with dollops of whipped cream on top.
Makes 12
For the walnut filling:
75g (3oz) walnuts, chopped or blitzed
15g (1/2oz) butter, melted, plus extra for greasing
Pinch of salt
Zest of 1 lemon
2 tsp vanilla extract
For the rolls:
350g (12oz) kataifi pastry
200g (7oz) butter, melted
For the syrup:
250g (9oz) caster sugar
100ml (31/2fl oz) water
Juice of 2 oranges
To serve:
100ml (31/2fl oz) double cream, whipped
To make the filling, blitz all the ingredients together in a food processor and set aside. Grease a deep baking tray.
To make the rolls, work the kataifi pastry by tearing it apart gently, strand by strand, until fluffed-up. Take a handful of pastry and brush it generously with the melted butter. Place a tablespoon or two of the walnut filling in the middle, and roll it like a cigar. Put the roll onto the tray and repeat with the remaining pastry and filling. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6 and brush the tops of the rolls with the remaining butter. Bake for 15–20 minutes or until crisp and dark golden.
Meanwhile, make the syrup by bringing all of the ingredients to the boil in a small pan over a medium heat.
Pour the syrup over the hot cataif and set aside to cool, allowing the syrup to be totally absorbed. Serve topped with whipped cream.
◁ Prăjitura cu caise
Apricot yoghurt cake
Romanians love to bake with fruit, and we are blessed with plenty of it. This cake is very easy to make and can be made with apricots, cherries, peaches, blueberries or pears to create a multitude of versions and colours. The slightly sticky yoghurt cake is the perfect accompaniment to the delicate flavour of the apricots. It’s just the thing you need on a summer’s evening, with a scoop of ice-cream or a little sprinkle of fresh tarragon – the aniseed flavour of the tarragon contrasting so well with the sweetness of the apricots.
Serves 6
3 eggs, separated
150g (5oz) caster sugar
50ml (2fl oz) olive or rapeseed oil
50g (2oz) natural yoghurt
1 tsp vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
150g (5oz) plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
4–5 fresh apricots, halved
Icing sugar, for dusting
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Grease and line a deep 23 × 30cm (9 × 31/2in) baking tin.
Whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks and set aside. Beat the egg yolks with the sugar then add the oil, yoghurt, vanilla and salt, stirring well to emulsify. Add the flour and baking powder then gently fold-in the egg whites.
Pour the cake batter into the tin, then arrange the apricot halves on top, cut-side up. Bake for 30 minutes or until the cake is firm to the touch. Leave to cool in the tin, then dust with icing sugar and cut into long rectangular slices to serve
◁ Şodou cu tăiţei şi piersici
Noodle pudding with grilled peaches
This pudding brings back memories of my mum making it for me, and of me waiting impatiently next to the cooker to eat it straight from the pan. She used condensed milk instead of cream for its caramelised flavour. When this wasn’t available, she would add egg yolks to the mixture right after taking the pan off the heat, to give a thicker, silky consistency. This basic mixture of milk with egg is called şodou – from the French chaud-d’oeuf, ‘warm egg’ – and is often served with fruit or coffee.
Serves 4
For the noodles:
2 eggs, beaten
180g (6oz) plain flour, plus extra for flouring
1–2 tbsp water
For the peaches:
4 peaches, halved
1 tbsp runny honey
1 tsp cinnamon
For the pudding:
400ml (14fl oz) milk
100ml (31/2fl oz) double cream
3 tbsp runny honey
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 egg yolk
To make the noodles, mix together the eggs with the flour to form a dough. If it has a crumbly texture, add 1 tablespoon of the water and mix again, adding more water if necessary. Knead by hand for 8–10 minutes, then place an upturned bowl over the dough and leave to rest it for 15 minutes.
Flour the work surface and roll the dough into a large circle about 3mm (1/8in) thick, or as thin as you can. Sprinkle with a little flour and leave to dry for 30 minutes or more, depending on your environment conditions. Roll the circle into a log shape and slice thinly. Leave the noodles to dry on a clean tea towel for a further 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6, and put the peach halves onto a baking sheet. Drizzle with the honey then sprinkle with cinnamon. Roast for 15 minutes then set aside in a bowl.
To make the pudding, put the milk and cream in a pan over a low heat and slowly bring to the boil. Add the honey, turn the heat down to low and add the noodles. Simmer gently for 10 minutes – the pudding needs to be quite thick.
Remove the pan from the heat, add the vanilla and wait for 5 minutes. Combine a little of the liquid pudding mixture with the egg yolk, mixing well and bringing it to the same temperature as the pan, then pour the egg yolk mixture over the noodles, stirring continuously for a couple of minutes until the mixture has a light golden glow and is thickened.
Transfer to serving bowls, then add the grilled peaches and spoon over a little of the roasting sauce.
◁ Albiniţa
Little honey bee cake
This gorgeous layer cake will change the way you view semolina pudding for ever. Tucked between layers of honey sponge sits a sumptuous semolina filling paired with tangy rosehip jam. Romanians are very fond of their honey, which is usually made from the blossom of linden or acacia trees, with a very delicate perfume of wild flowers. This cake is a marvellous celebration of some of our beloved Romanian ingredients.
Serves 8
For the sponge:
85g (3oz) honey
70g (23/4oz) caster sugar
40g (11/2oz) butter
1 egg
1 tbsp vanilla extract
Zest of 1 lemon
16ml (1/2fl oz) cold milk
300g (11oz) plain flour
1/2 tsp baking powder
For the semolina filling:
500ml (171/2fl oz) milk
100g (31/2oz) caster sugar
75g (3oz) honey
130g (41/4oz) semolina
4 tsp vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
175g (6oz) butter, diced and softened
Zest of 1 lemon
For the jam layer:
1 small jar rosehip jam or other tangy jam
To serve:
Icing sugar, for dusting
To make the sponge, melt together the honey, sugar and butter in a milk pan. Bring to a simmer, then set aside to cool. Add the egg, vanilla, lemon zest and milk, mixing well. Sift in the flour and baking powder, and briefly knead to form a dough. Refrigerate for 30 minutes while you make the filling.
To make the semolina filling, bring the milk, sugar and honey to the boil in a pan. Turn the heat down and gradually add the semolina, stirring well to avoid any lumps forming. Add the vanilla and a pinch of salt and set aside to cool. When the filling reaches room temperature, add the butter and lemon zest and combine until very well incorporated.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6. Remove the dough from the fridge and divide into 4 balls, roughly 140g (41/2oz) each. Roll each ball into a 22cm (83/4in) diameter circle. Transfer to lined baking sheets, prick with a fork and bake for 8–9 minutes or until firm to the touch and golden in colour. While still warm trim each to a 20cm (8in) diameter circle, using a plate or cake tin as your guide. Stack the sponge layers on a plate and cover with a tea towel to retain as much moisture as possible. Set aside to cool.
Line a 20cm (8in) diameter springform tin with cling film. Place a sponge layer into the tin, then spread over half of the semolina filling. Add a second sponge layer and press down gently. Spread over a thin layer of jam and add a third sponge layer. Spread over the remaining semolina filling, then place the last sponge layer on top. Refrigerate overnight. When ready to serve carefully remove from the tin, peel away the cling film and dust with icing sugar.
◁ Tort de îngheţată cassata
Cassata style ice-cream cake
Cassata is the famous Sicilian cake made with candied fruit and a ricotta filling, that somehow landed in Romania as an ice-cream cake. Layers of velvety ice-cream and cherry jam are covered by a thin dark chocolate glaze, turning this cake into one of the most decadent desserts in Bucharest. I have dared to change it here a little so that you don’t need an ice-cream machine to make it, and instead serve it with fresh cherries. It is an impressive centrepiece, and all you need is a little patience over a few hours while the ice-cream layers are setting.
Serves 8
For the pistachio paste:
100g (31/2oz) shelled pistachios
2 tbsp rapeseed oil
1 tbsp ground almonds
1/2 tsp almond extract
2 tbsp Marsala or rum
For the chocolate biscuit base:
200g (7oz) digestive biscuits
50g (2oz) butter, melted
20g (3/4oz) cocoa powder
For the ice-cream:
500ml (17fl oz) double cream
400ml (14fl oz) condensed milk
200g (7oz) fresh ricotta (see here)
1 quantity pistachio paste (see above)
150g (5oz) fresh cherries, pitted and halved
2 tbsp vanilla extract
To decorate:
50g (2oz) fresh cherries, pitted and halved and lightly stewed with 2 tbsp caster sugar
To make the pistachio paste, blitz all the ingredients in a food processor or grind in a pestle and mortar until they come together to form a paste.
To make the biscuit base, blitz the ingredients in a food processor until combined.
To make the ice-cream, whip the cream into soft peaks. Combine the condensed milk with the ricotta until smooth, then fold in the whipped cream. Divide the mixture evenly between two bowls.
Add the pistachio paste to the first bowl and the cherries and vanilla extract to the second bowl, stirring both to combine well.
Line a 20cm (8in) non-stick springform cake tin with cling film. Press the biscuit mixture into the tin to create an even base.
Pour the pistachio ice-cream mixture over the biscuit base and level gently. Place the tin in the freezer and refrigerate the cherry ice-cream mixture. The pistachio will set in around 2 hours – it doesn’t have to be rock hard, just firm enough to support the second layer.
Add the cherry ice-cream mixture to the tin and return to the freezer overnight to set, or until needed. You can make this a few days in advance.
Remove the cake from the tin a few minutes before serving. Decorate with the fresh cherries and spoonfuls of the sauce.
◁ Cornuleţe cu gem
Mini crescent rolls with jam or Turkish delight
These little crescent rolls are very moreish, and go so well with a cup of coffee or tea. They are something that we would take to the neighbours when passing by to say hello. We have a custom in Romania not to go visiting someone empty-handed, and we usually bring home-made treats with us. The host will have to reciprocate and never return the plate empty, even if all they have is fruit, freshly baked bread or shelled walnuts. It was hard for me to decide between the two fillings so I’m giving you both versions, equally popular at home: jam and Turkish delight.
Makes 24
For the dough:
350g (12oz) plain flour
100g (31/2oz) butter, diced and softened
1 egg, beaten
20g (3/4oz) caster sugar
100g (31/2oz) Greek yoghurt
7g (1/4oz) fast-action dried yeast
Zest of 1 orange
For the filling:
75g (3oz) plum jam
Few squares of Turkish delight, diced
To decorate:
75g (3oz) icing sugar
To make the dough, combine all the ingredients and knead briefly for a few moments. Cover and leave in a warm place for 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. Roll the dough out on a floured surface until 5mm (1/4in) thick. Place an upturned 30cm– (12in–) diameter round plate onto the dough and cut around it, retaining the trimmings. Cut the dough circle into quarters, then cut each quarter in two triangles.
Take a little of the jam or 1 dice of Turkish delight, and place it at the wider end of one of the dough triangles. Roll to the centre and place on a baking tray – it should look like a croissant. Repeat with the remaining dough triangles. Bring the dough trimmings together, roll again and repeat to use all of the dough.
Bake for 15 minutes or until golden brown. Leave to cool, then roll in icing sugar, Make a cup of tea or coffee and treat yourself to two, one of each filling.
◁ Cremă caramel de dovleac cu nucă şi stafide
Pumpkin crème caramel with walnuts and sultanas
Here I am turning a beloved Romanian pumpkin filling into a delicate, bitter-sweet crème caramel, served with sultanas soaked in orange liqueur. The liqueur is optional, and you can definitely use orange juice instead. My mum used to make crème caramel very often, especially during the summer, when it was too hot to eat doughy desserts.
Serves 6
For the infused sultanas:
50ml (2fl oz) orange juice
50g (2oz) sultanas
25ml (1fl oz) orange liqueur
For the pumpkin crème:
400g (14oz) pumpkin or squash, diced
4 eggs, plus 1 yolk
100g (31/2oz) caster sugar
400ml (14fl oz) milk
15ml (1/2fl oz) rum
For the caramel:
100g (31/2oz) caster sugar
To serve:
2–3 walnuts, roughly chopped
To make the sultanas, heat the orange juice and sultanas in a pan over a medium heat and simmer for 8 minutes. Set aside to infuse before adding the liqueur.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 6. Roast the pumpkin or squash for 20 minutes, then set aside until cool enough to handle. Pulse in a food processor until smooth.
To make the caramel melt the sugar in a pan over a medium heat until dark. Immediately pour the caramel into 6 ramekins and set aside to cool.
To make the pumpkin crème, beat the eggs with the sugar until pale, then add the pumpkin purée. Bring the milk to the boil in a pan over a medium heat, whisking continuously, then pour into the egg mixture. Sieve the mixture and pour into the ramekins.
Reduce the oven temperature to 160°C/325°F/gas mark 3. Place the ramekins in a roasting tin and transfer to the oven, then pour cold water into the tin up to a quarter of the ramekins’ height. Bake for 40 minutes, then remove from the tray and leave to cool. Refrigerate overnight.
When you are ready to serve, run a sharp knife around the inside edges of the ramekins and turn onto serving plates. Add the walnuts and spoon over the sultana mixture.