Salt-and-Pepper Shrimp

START TO FINISH: 45 minutes

SERVINGS: 4

To make classic salt-and-pepper shrimp, the shrimp—with heads and shells intact—are deep-fried until crisp. This recipe is a much-simplified version that offers the same rich aromas and spicy, toasted-garlic flavor of the traditional recipe. Serve with rice and steamed or stir-fried greens.

Don’t slice the scallions paper thin; they will scorch. About ¼ inch thick is best.

1½ pounds jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails left on

2 teaspoons Sichuan peppercorns

1 teaspoon white peppercorns

Kosher salt

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 teaspoon white sugar

4 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil, divided

1 large jalapeño or 2 serrano chilies, stemmed and thinly sliced crosswise into rings

6 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped

¼ cup finely chopped peeled fresh ginger

1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced

Pat the shrimp dry with paper towels and place in a large bowl. Use a spice grinder to grind the Sichuan and white peppercorns until medium-fine (about the coarseness of kosher salt). Transfer to a small bowl and stir in 1½ teaspoons salt. In another small bowl, stir together 2 teaspoons of the pepper mixture, the cornstarch and sugar, then sprinkle over the shrimp and toss. Set the remaining pepper mixture aside.

Line a baking sheet with paper towels. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil until barely smoking. Add half of the shrimp in an even layer and cook without stirring until deep golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Using tongs, flip and continue to cook until the second side is opaque, another 20 to 30 seconds. Transfer to the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with 1 tablespoon of the remaining oil and the remaining shrimp. Do not wash the skillet.

In the same skillet over medium-high, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil until shimmering. Add the jalapeño and cook, stirring, until the seeds begin to brown, about 1 minute. Add the garlic, ginger and all but 3 tablespoons of the scallions. Cook, stirring constantly, until the scallions and ginger have softened, about 2 minutes. Return the shrimp to the skillet and toss, then stir in the reserved spice mixture. Transfer to a platter and sprinkle with the remaining scallions.