START TO FINISH: 45 minutes
SERVINGS: 4
There are many versions of pesce all’acqua pazza, or “fish in crazy water,” but all involve poaching or simmering fish in a tomato broth or sauce. For our version, anchovies, black olives and capers bring bold, punchy flavor to mild-flavored fillets. Though this recipe calls for cod, any firm, meaty, white fish would work. Be sure to have some crusty bread for serving—or even better, toast some baguette slices, then rub them with garlic and brush with olive oil.
Don’t worry if the cod at the grocery store is sold as a single fillet. Cut the fillet into as many pieces of a similar thickness as you need for even cooking—it may be as many as five or six—and if some pieces are very thin, fold them in half or thirds to approximate the thickness of the thicker pieces. When cooking the fish, check it frequently for doneness and remove the pieces as they finish.
Four 6- to 8-ounce skinless cod fillets
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon finely chopped anchovy fillets
4 medium garlic cloves, finely chopped
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
½ cup dry white wine or vermouth
1 pound grape tomatoes, halved
½ cup pitted Kalamata olives, halved
2 tablespoons drained capers
⅓ cup lightly packed torn fresh basil
Season the cod fillets on both sides with salt and pepper. In a 12-inch skillet over medium, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the anchovies and cook, stirring and mashing, until the bits dissolve, about 1 minute. Add the garlic and pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until the garlic begins to brown, 45 to 60 seconds. Add the onion and ½ teaspoon salt, then cover and reduce to medium-low. Cook, stirring, until the onion is softened, 3 to 4 minutes.
Pour in the wine, bring to a simmer over medium-high and cook, uncovered, until the liquid is almost fully evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook, uncovered and stirring occasionally, until they begin to break down, about 3 minutes. Stir in 1 cup water, the olives and capers, then bring to a simmer.
Nestle the fish in a single layer in the sauce and reduce to medium-low. Cover and cook until the centers of the fillets reach 120°F or the flesh flakes easily when cut, 5 to 8 minutes. Use a slotted spatula to transfer them to individual bowls or plates.
Set the skillet over medium-high and cook the sauce, stirring, until slightly thickened, 2 to 3 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Spoon around the fish, dividing it evenly, then sprinkle with the basil and black pepper.