START TO FINISH: 45 minutes
SERVINGS: 4
In southern China, cooks have a worry-free method for cooking delicate, flaky white fish to perfection: steaming the fish whole over aromatic-spiked water. The mild heat slowly firms the protein, allowing it to stay moist. We adapted the technique, using skinless cod fillets for convenience and lining our steamer basket with cabbage leaves to mimic the skin of the whole fish. Rubbing the fillets with a seasoning paste of ginger, cilantro, scallions and soy sauce produced deep flavor. We drew on another classic Cantonese technique for a flavorful finish—topping the fillets with raw chopped scallions and serrano chilies, then pouring sizzling-hot oil over them to bring out the flavors and aromas. Because fillets vary in thickness, a general guide is to steam them for about 8 minutes per 1-inch thickness.
Don’t let the steaming water reach a full boil. A gentle heat cooks the fish slowly and evenly, helping it stay moist.
3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, plus ¼ cup whole leaves, divided
6 scallions, 3 minced and 3 thinly sliced on diagonal, divided
2 tablespoons finely grated fresh ginger
6 tablespoons soy sauce, divided
3 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil, divided
6 large green cabbage leaves, plus 2 cups thinly sliced green cabbage
Four 6-ounce skinless cod, haddock or halibut fillets
2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar
2 teaspoons white sugar
1 teaspoon ground white pepper
1 serrano chili, stemmed and sliced into thin rings
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
In a wide, shallow bowl, stir together the chopped cilantro, minced scallions, ginger, 2 tablespoons of soy sauce and 1 tablespoon of grapeseed oil. Add the fish and coat on all sides. Let stand at room temperature for 10 minutes.
Place a steamer basket in a large Dutch oven. Add enough water to fill the bottom of the pot without reaching the basket. Remove the basket. Cover the pot and bring to a simmer over medium-high. Line the basket with 4 of the cabbage leaves. Place the fish fillets on the leaves, then cover with the remaining 2 leaves. Turn off the heat under the pot, then set the basket in it. Cover and return to a simmer over medium. Steam until the fish flakes easily, 8 to 12 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the remaining 4 tablespoons soy sauce, the rice vinegar, sugar and white pepper. Transfer 3 tablespoons to a medium bowl, add the sliced cabbage and toss. Arrange on a serving platter. Reserve the remaining dressing.
When the fish is ready, discard the cabbage leaves covering it. Use a spatula to set the fillets on the sliced cabbage. Sprinkle with sliced scallions and the serrano.
In a small skillet over medium-high, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil until barely smoking. Pour the oil over the fillets. Drizzle with sesame oil and sprinkle with the cilantro leaves. Serve with the reserved dressing on the side.