START TO FINISH: 30 minutes
SERVINGS: 4
We drew on the flavors of bagna cauda—the sauce-like dip from Italy’s Piedmont region that is a harvest ritual—by pairing pasta and skillet-seared cauliflower with garlic and anchovies. The anchovies melt away, leaving behind a salty-savory tang, while butter and some of the pasta cooking water help create a quick pan sauce. Toasted pistachios add crunch; lemon juice and zest brighten the dish. Campanelle is a frilly, trumpet-shaped pasta that catches both cauliflower and sauce; other short pasta shapes, such as farfalle and cavatappi, also worked well.
Don’t cook the pasta until entirely al dente. The pasta will soften further when tossed with the sauce.
12 ounces campanelle pasta or other short pasta
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
⅓ cup shelled, unsalted pistachios, roughly chopped
1 small cauliflower head (about 2½ pounds), cored and cut into 1-inch florets
8 medium garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons minced anchovy fillets, plus 2 tablespoons anchovy oil
2 teaspoons fresh rosemary, minced
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
4 tablespoons (½ stick) salted butter, divided
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest, plus 2 tablespoons lemon juice
¾ cup lightly packed fresh flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
In a large pot, bring 4 quarts of water to a boil. Add the pasta and 2 tablespoons salt and cook until just shy of al dente. Reserve 1 cup of the cooking water, then drain and set aside. Meanwhile in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil until shimmering. Add the pistachios and cook, stirring, until fragrant and bright green, 30 to 45 seconds. Transfer to a small bowl.
Add 2 tablespoons of oil to the pan and heat over medium until shimmering. Add half of the cauliflower and ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until light golden brown and crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl. Return the pan to medium heat and repeat with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, remaining cauliflower and ¼ teaspoon each salt and pepper.
Return all of the cauliflower to the pan. Stir in the garlic, anchovies and oil, rosemary, pepper flakes and 2 tablespoons of butter. Cook, stirring, until the garlic is softened and the anchovies have disintegrated, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the pasta cooking water and bring to a boil over medium-high. Toss in the pasta and remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Cook, tossing, until the sauce has thickened and coats the pasta, about 1 minute.
Off heat, stir in the lemon juice and all but 1 tablespoon of the pistachios. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving platter and sprinkle with the remaining pistachios, the parsley and lemon zest.