START TO FINISH: 30 minutes
SERVINGS: 4
This classic pasta dish traditionally is prepared with guanciale (cured pork cheek), but more widely available pancetta is a good substitute. Be sure to purchase thinly sliced pancetta and chop it finely to ensure the pieces crisp with cooking. Simmering a chunk of pecorino Romano with the pasta is an unconventional technique, but we found that it allowed the cheese to season the pasta throughout, resulting in a fuller-flavored finished dish. We also boiled the pasta in only 2 quarts of water to concentrate the starch and cheese flavor. If the sauced pasta thickens before you serve it, toss in a little more reserved cooking water to loosen its consistency.
Don’t boil the pasta until al dente. Drain it when it’s a minute or two shy of al dente; it will continue to cook when added to the sauce in the skillet.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
3 ounces thinly sliced pancetta, finely chopped
10 medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced
½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
¾ cup dry white wine
14½-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, drained, juices reserved, tomatoes crushed by hand into small pieces
1-ounce chunk pecorino Romano cheese, plus more finely grated, to serve
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
12 ounces spaghetti
In a 12-inch skillet over medium, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil until shimmering. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring, until well-browned and crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a paper towel–lined plate and set aside.
Return the skillet to medium and add the garlic; cook, stirring, until light golden brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in the pepper flakes and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the wine, increase to medium-high and cook, stirring, until most of the liquid has evaporated, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the drained tomatoes and cook, stirring, until heated, about 2 minutes. Stir in 3 tablespoons of the reserved tomato juice, then remove from the heat.
Meanwhile, in a large pot, bring 2 quarts of water and the pecorino chunk to a boil, stirring occasionally to prevent the cheese from sticking to the pot. Stir in the pasta and 2 teaspoons salt. Cook, stirring often, until the pasta is just shy of al dente. Remove and discard the pecorino, then drain the pasta in a colander set in a large heat-safe bowl; reserve the cooking water.
Set the skillet over medium-high, stir in 1½ cups of the reserved pasta water and bring to a simmer. Add the drained pasta, tossing with tongs. Cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has been absorbed, 3 to 6 minutes.
Off heat, stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons oil, the pancetta and 2 teaspoons black pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve with grated pecorino on the side.